Sterling 10.5 Install - One Ton Swap Jeep Cherokee XJ
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 เม.ย. 2024
- Finally, today we are going to get the Sterling 10.5 into the Resurrection Cherokee!
This has been a long time in the making and is a HUGE step to getting the Resurrection Cherokee back out onto the trail.
I am very excited to announce we are working with Barnes 4WD to make this video possible, they saw what we were doing to the Resurrection Cherokee and wanted to help out so they sent over a Sterling 10.5 Truss and a set of U-Bolt Eliminator Leaf Spring Perches. These parts are going to speed up this rebuild process by quite a bit, thank you Barnes!
We used these products in this video!
U -Bolt Eliminator Leaf Spring Perches:
barnes4wd.com/products/u-bolt...
10.5 Truss:
barnes4wd.com/products/ford-s...
**WEEKLY UPDATE: I am currently on my fifth week (out of eight) traveling for work so progress has been slow on the Resurrection Cherokee. (Hence no video last week). Videos will most likely be every other week until I have more time on my hands, appreciate y'all for understanding. SPOILER: As of writing this the Dana 60 is all welding up, re-geared and locker installed. I couldn't be happier...now onto the rear!**
As always be sure to follow us on Instagram for real time updates, if you're watching the series in real time I'm about 2 weeks ahead of each video I post on here, so head over to Instagram for sneak peaks!
/ backcountrybeagles
Thank you all so much for watching, We'll see you out on the trail and we'll see you next time!
- The Backcountry Beagles
Ash, Ron, Bella, Natalie, Lilli
Put the shocks on top of the u-bolt plate, though the floor straight up. Boostwerks makes a nice looking kit to do this. I plan to build something similar on mine when I get there.
pretty cool that barnes reached out to you, they have really nice parts for a good price, hard to complain about what they offer
Yes definitely awesome of them. Great products from what I can tell!🤘🏽
Looking great! I know you have a ton of work left to do but this video makes it feel like it's all starting to come together!
SOO much work to do 😅 I feel the same way, glad to see it sitting on its own weight again in the rear!
Reminds me of when I did my 8.8 swap.
8.8❤️ Can’t go wrong with an 8.8, love mine in the red chero!
@backcountrybeagles it was my first project of that magnitude and i haven't had a single issue with it. Its been about 8 years now.
When I put in a new floor and frame stiffeners I found a 40 grit flapper disk got through the rubber coating the quickest
I’ll definitely be picking some up then!
I've done unibody stiffeners a few times I have a method down to clean up the frame or unibody rails. Tools I use to prep is 2 angle grinders a propane torch a metal putty knife scraper thingy and a wood handled small wire brush the wood handle is because your using propane torch and getting things hot the plastic brushes melt. Although I don't use the torch a lot it is nice for the undercoat on the large flat areas where it's thick you heat it up and scrape it off. Then the 2 angle grinders is one with a heavy wire wheel like a cone wheel or regular wheel I like having the cone I think was best. Then your 2nd grinder has a flap disc or your favorite sanding disc like the scotchbrite discs with sand paper work too. The wire wheel gets it clean enough quickly so your flap disc doesn't clog up so much. Then the Cherokee metal is galvanized or zinc coated the body is dipped Or something during the manufacturing process, you've probably noticed the yellowy white scum or fumes around welds when welding on the body if that coating isn't cleaned off it's tough to get it all. But anyways the 2 grinders makes quick work of things.
Also I've used some different rust protection methods and my 2 favorite methods are using either steel-it paint which is weld through, or upol copper weld through primer I believe it's upol #2. I prefer the steel-it over the upol I did a little testing with various weld through primers and paints and the upol and steel it were my favorite but I find myself liking steel-it better. I painted the backside of the stiffeners and the unibody with steel it. I also did a set of stiffeners with the upol before both are holding up but I think steel it is better.
I've seen some people use seam sealer to try and completely seal the stiffeners to the unibody after install and in my opinion that's a bad idea because water gets everywhere. What I did is I sealed the top and various places around the stiffeners but I left the bottom open like drains and really seam sealing isn't really necessary but I had completely torn my xj down to a bare body and removed all the factory seam sealer and stitch welded most of the chassis then I went back with modern 3m 2 part seam sealer throughout and since I was in there I did the seams under the car.
I'm kinda curious what you think is the best way to install the stiffeners. I've seen some people fully weld all the way around and some people stitch weld. I do both kinda depending where it's at some areas I fully weld and others I stitch weld. I don't think there's much of a wrong way.
I'd say stitch weld because wasting gas and wire and time is not fun, and it seems to hold it strong enough
Lots of great info here, appreciate that. Going to use some of those ideas when I get to the stiffeners. I like the idea of the two grinders/wire wheels/sanding discs. The torch is also a good idea. I was thinking about picking up a cheap sandblaster. I wonder if that would take the sound deadening off easily and save me time.
I’ve heard good things about steel it, I’ll probably give it a try for this.
As for stitching vs filly welding. I’ve done two sets of stiffeners and like you said I think it just depends what the piece looks like/where you are welding. I will personally stitch it wherever possible.
@@backcountrybeagles I'm not sure if a sand blaster would remove it or not. It makes me think of times when I'm sand blasting parts that have caked on grease or dirt in a corner or edge and sometimes the blaster has a hard time removing it. I guess it depends upon how gnarly the sand blaster is. Also it makes a mess but no matter what you do installing stiffeners is a messy job. I've seen some Cherokees that have little to no undercoating then I've seen some that are completely heavily undercoated. I know for me the fastest way to remove the coating is the heavy wire wheel on the grinder or the torch and brush/scraper.
those u bolt eliminators are great but mine bent slightly over the years. add a brace in the middle directly under the leafs to stop that from happening.
That’s what I figured would happen, deffiently will do that before this axle goes in.
Same setup I run on my cj7. Your going to love that OX locker. I use air, also I like redundancies and its nice to know if i lose air I can insert the drive away lock and still have it locked up.
Agreed on that. I’ve run ARB and Yukon Grizzlys in the past. Very excited to see how this OX does, I don’t think I’ll be disappointed. I think that driveway lock is an awesome feature and will come in handy.
I like how the vocal track is really loud in these videos, nothing makes me more ticked off than when the music is loud as hell and the vocals are whisper quiet in a video
Getting volumes right can be tough. It’s something I’ve been working on and I think I definitely have improved on since some earlier videos.
🔥🔥🔥
Rather than replacing the leaf springs, why don't you put in a pair of 'no lift shackle brackets' (Ironman4x4Fab makes a nice pair)?
I'll have to take a look into those.
What gears are you going with in the 10.5? I've heard the lowest you can go is 4.88
5.38s, if I could have found lower I would have gone with them😳😂
@backcountrybeagles where'd you find 5.38s from what I've heard the 10.5 can't go below 4.88 the 10.25 can but the 10.5 can't
Revolution, they use the same gears as far as I know. The gears I got from them and the overhaul kit state they’ll work in a 10.5 and 10.25.
@@backcountrybeagles hmm
Thanks