I just purchased this trailer (used) yet had no idea how to fold it up. The previous owner had never done that so he was no help. Mike, I appreciate the video! And thanks for not droning on and on....just a simply made video that showed me everything I need to know about folding up my trailer! 5 stars, Mike! :-)
Pro tip….release the back half of the trailer first and unfold it past 90 degrees, hold in place w a cam strap. The back half will act as a counter weight so you’ll have much less mass coming toward u when you drop the front half to horizontal.
Finally someone who knows how it should be done, I’ve seen more how to videos that are made by people who don’t understand the mechanism or just don’t grasp basic physics or mechanical principles on this subject than I can keep track of. Well done and thank you.
You might get away with a light load by only using two bolts, but for highway stability and pushing a 1,000 pounds plus cargo (1,750 trailer), you would be best to place 2-3 more bolts in locking the two half's together; not much holding the back if you don't - I wish Harbor Freight would highlight this point. Thanks, good video!
I was going to comment on the same thing. There are actually 6 bolts that are suppose to be attached after unfolding; 2 carriage bolts (square holes) on the side that Mike showed, 2 carriage bolts (square holes) under and other side of leaf spring, and 2 middle section bolts gartmi27358 mentioned.
Agreed. I’m not gonna second guess the engineers on that. But, I’m curious if there is any kind of quick release hardware solution that could be used in place of the threaded bolts, such as the pins that are used to secure the front tongue triangle in place. Perhaps something that has a similar or greater resistance to shearing as the threaded bolts.
There are two middle bolts to add in addition to the two on the sides. I wish they had a clamping or locking system. There should be printed instructions on how to remove the rear seal on the hub and the need to replace the packing grease with proper hi temp axel grease. Be sure to buy extra seals for assembly just in case. The inside corners of the two sections where the hinge is need redesign- such a pain to bolt down. Instructions should explain the need for the 4 screws and grease replacement.
Helpful video. I was curious how much space it took up in the garage since I don't have a ton available. I'm also laughing at all the comments worrying about you smashing a toe. I wonder how many of them wear steel-toed boots when working around the house. Because if they think the thin cloth on the top of a pair of sneakers is going to protect them any more than nothing at all they are in for a shock when they drop something on their toe.
There is another YT video demonstrating this with one exception; First step unfolding, lower back half of trailer. Last Step in folding, raise back half. Lessens amount of weight on the tongue side you have to mess with. Plus it sort of plants the trailer when deploying the tongue or folding it.
Just ordered the Super Duty from Harbor Freight. I plan on making two new hinge plate sets to allow for easy folding with 3/4" plywood. I would think these might/should be available online somewhere? It doesn't make sense to have only 1/2" plywood, or having a trailer that won't fold evenly if you use 3/4" plywood. Hell, I've seen a video where a guy uses 5/4 decking. Of course he wasn't folding it, but still... they should be bigger.
@@maetb I received my 1720lbs Super Duty last week and I assembled it this weekend. (after painting it with a FrankenStrat style) and though I don't have plywood on it yet, the top of the side frames are 2" apart while folded. The distance between the bolt heads is a bit less than 1.5", but it's no issue to countersink plywood for them. One thing I noticed, the side frame bolt holes CLOSEST to the front/rear joint are *elongated* allowing you to move the pivot point up at least a 1/4". This will add an overall 1/2" more space. Whether or not they ALL come like that, I don't know. Maybe they modified the hole from being simply round because of complaints about 3/4" plywood not fitting. Anyway, when I'm able to get a mortgage for a piece of plywood and install it, I'll update you.
Sir, I just bought the same trailer, and did some research on it, and it states that you need to replace the wheel bearing with new grease on them. When I saw the wheel bearings they were pack with grease. What do you recommend??
I disassembled the hubs, sprayed and soaked the bearings with brake cleaner, then repacked the bearings with new grease. Once you have done that, as long as you use the same grease, repacking in the future is a little faster since you don't have to fully clean off the bearings
Did you build the trailer? I'm building mine right now. In the intructions it shows putting 2 bolts through the center cross members??? Which would mean 4 bolts to put in and take out to fold/unfold. Also it seems and I'm going to have to bring in my instructions ... the bracket for the axel and spring also seems to bolt to the back frame???? Hope you're still around ... I had to stop and take a break last night because nothing in the instructions is clarifying how much do I have to bolt / unbolt to fold / unfold normally. So I'm sitting here thinking I've put the damn thing together wrong.
There are a lot of comments here, but if you read through there are some conversations about how I do not use the bolts that attach the front section to the back because it would make folding more difficult, and I don't think they add much strength. I do bolt the rear section to the axle section after unfolding.
@@maetb I did notice you putting the 2 bolts in the side of the axle section. But I didn't see you insert the carriage type bolts underneath the springs ... Thanks for getting back on this. There are times that I over think things.
Appreciate the video. It makes the buying decision so much easier. You think Haul Master would make this video but I guess why bother whn they have you to sell thier products for them. :)
I'm now trying to find the right trailer to pull my 2nd Mobility scooter behind me. Enjoyed this video, but being the old fart I am now at 70, here's some HELPFUL ADVICE; #!) NEVER lay anything like tools ON THE GROUND! Put it UP within easy reach.. #2) NEVER walk away from anything you lean UPRIGHT, if it falls your Skull may get broken. #3) Never let kids around you when you assemble a trailer of big object. #4). NEVER do anything dangerous, tree cutting, Roof and Ladder work OR Digging without a Cell phone ON YOU!, and let someone know ahead of time, what you intend to do. My neighbor fell from his roof, wife's away for 2 days.. He climbed up ladder at 10pm, fell, broke his collar bone and 3 ribs. NO PHONE ON HIM! Rain brought him to conciousness 3 hrs later. I heard him begging for help. . Avoid Tremendous pain. . . WORK SAFE!! THINK!! sorry for the length :(
Ok thanks for the video. Question..how much of a gap between the 2 pieces of plywood to assure proper fold. Also didn't notice light kit. Does it scrape the ground when folded?
Maybe a quarter-inch gap after folding. There is a light kit on it. When folded, nothing scrapes. Sometimes the license plate scrapes if you tilt the trailer too much when unfolded
Thanks for the video. Can you tell me what the height is of the trailer when folded and upright? I'd like to get one and want to make sure it'll fit in the space. Thanks again!
Thanks for the vid. I bought a used trailer just like yours. To fold it, I had to remove 4 bolts. The two you reinstalled at the 3:00 mark. And two more that are forward of the two you installed. You must go underneath the trailer to remove the nuts for the other two bolts. Is it necessary to reinstall four bolts? Or just the two in the vid?
You are supposed to do the 4 bolts, but from my experience the two in the sides are sufficient to secure the rear deck for most trips and loads. I could imagine some cases where you may want to do the two that connect the two decks, but I never do.
You would need ramps - the folding aspect is not intended for loading. You could probably get creative and figure something out, but I wouldn't advise it
Good demo. I'm thinking of getting one of these maybe next month as mainly motorcycle hauling (400-500 lb sportsbike) for out of town trips. Debating in getting the 1200-ish or 1800. Either one, mods will be thin plyboards, rails, ramp, chock, maybe winch w/bar.
I have a sloping driveway, and realized the folded trailer with tongue in the air is just a few inches higher than my garage ceiling is tall. I can still unfold it in there but it's definitely precarious unfolding the tongue and tilting it forward at the same time. How's the paint holding up?
What happen to the two bolts that hold the two frame pieces together where the hinge is located under the deck? Don't need them to keep the two haves together ?
I almost bought a maverick hybrid but I don't really need a truck. Mayne only once or twice a year to go to home depot and do diy home projects. Should I buy a foldable utility trailer instead and add a hitch to my Nissan leaf so I can haul stuff whenever I need it??
It would certainly be less expensive than a new vehicle, and can carry 4x8 sheets of plywood. A truck is probably easier to use because you always have the bed, where with a trailer you have to get it out and set up. There is also the extra registration (in my state at least), and the initial setup (adding a hitch, assembling the trailer, etc.)
It can certainly handle the weight. The main part of the trailer is 8ft, but you could probably overhang a little on the front and a little in the back.
@@maetb oh there are a few carriage bolts as well. Do you need to remove those too it seems. My front folding part doesn’t seem to line up well with the pins in the front. Maybe I didn’t square it enough?
I think this would be too big to fit in a truck bed, but there are smaller ones. All assembled with the plywood deck this probably weighs 300lbs, which would also be a challenge to get in a truck bed
It's a 4x8 trailer, so there is about 4 feet between the side rails, and there are cross-members about every 2 feet front-to-back. Let me know if you need more info
Thanks for the video, I've been considering this trailer and you helped me make up my mind. I'm going to get a 5'x8' aluminum trailer from Fleet Farm instead. I'd love the folding feature but it's just too flimsy to trust on the road.
tomj528 i thought it was flimsy too till i bought and put together with a buddy. We were amazed how tough and strong these trailers were for the price. You should see how i load my ATV on it. Lol lets just say its a Strong little trailer and gets the job done. Look at how many are up for sale used on Craigslist or offerup you be surprised if you find any used. People keep them after buying.
aren't there a couple bolts that are underneath the bed that connect the front and back half together (once folded down)? Maybe those are only used during assembly?
Yes, I think you are right. Since I fold and unfold this regularly, I only use the two bolts that hold the back section down. It feel sufficiently secure using only those two bolts
@@maetb thanks for replying (and making the video). I just wanted to check since my plan is to push right up against the weight limit to haul top soil, and I don't want to miss anything (and the instructions were pretty good, but not perfect).
I had the same question. I am mid-way through assembly and I could not for the life of me figure out how it was going to fold with those two bolts in the mide section. Thanks.
I believe if you use 3/4 inch plywood, you will not be able to fold it up without changing the geometry of the hinge. I used half-inch pressure-treated plywood, and I put some 2x3 supports under them to support the wood between the metal frames
Yes, found at the correct Lowes. Not a common size. Had to cut the ends to about 2x2.5 to get them to fit but this looks to strengthen the entire structure. Going to put my motorcycle on it. Hope i'm not pushing it too much!
Mike, what are you using for the deck? Do you have any issues with the deck edges getting crushed together when the two halves are folded? I watched another video of folding /unfolding and saw they weren't flat against one another (although yours doesn't seem to have that problem).
Great video. The first time trying to fold and unfold was a pain and the rear slammed down bending my license plate. Thankfully no structural damage. Do you plan on doing a maintenance video at some point? Like cleaning/greasing/replacing the hub bearings? Have not found a good resource for that yet and the instructions are quite lacking.
@@maetb Good to know, will have to look them up. Have used it for a total of maybe 100-200miles on short trips. Will have to look up the maintenance schedule for these things. Thankfully keeping it in the garage to keep it healthy.
Yes, absolutely it tilts for loading. I use this as my 4x4 trailer. Even built a little 14' removable extension up front to side load a small chinese 125cc quad for the kids. I have accidentally overloaded a few times and still love it!
Hey McCoy! My trailer is about 55" folded up (this includes pulling the two main pins and folding the trailer hitch down. Have a helper the first time or two that you fold it up is helpful. :-)
They are Carlisle Sport Trail LH 4.8x12. I can't find anything about what speed they are rated for specifically. I should note these were not the tires that came with the trailer, but the replacements Harbor Freight offered as a recall
I think there are 2 more that connect the front bed to the rear of the bed. I haven't used these and don't think it decreases the strength or safety of the trailer when assembled in this way. The rear section is attached to the front through the hinges, and to the axle through the bolts I added in this video.
Has anybody read how fast the suggested MPH rating is on these trailers,most of the MPH rating are less than 50 MPH and I'm sure that most people run faster than that.
After I bought this, there was a recall on the tires. I brought the old ones to harbor freight and they gave me a new set. I looked it up and they are rated for 87 mph. They are carlisle sport trail lh 4.8x12
@@maetb I was really looking into purchasing said unit,but I noticed that most of the small trailers were not rated for speeds over 50 MPH and that was not exclusive to harbor freight will give a closer look.Thanks
@@cara2u I use the two bolts that hold the rear frame to the axel assembly. There are two more that connect the rear frame to the front frame, but they are hard to get to, and the frame is already attached to the front frame via the hinges.
Make sure you keep those bearings greased and do not exceed 50 miles an hour. I bought one of those trailers in 2005 and enclosed it. I was driving down the boulevard one day and saw a cloud of smoke behind me thought it was on fire I pulled over and the bearings had burned out of it only half of a cotter pin was holding the wheel on. Always remember you get what you pay for. Cost me two hundred bucks and then I assembled it used it for maybe 4 months and that was it
The real key for me was that u-shaped thing I made to hold the two bed sections together while folding/unfolding. It definitely takes some trial and error to feel comfortable
Mike Butterstick Thanks. Do you have a video for that? I’m new to this and right now I have to bolt/unbolt every time - not going to work. It’s got to be easier. Thanks.
I made a maiden voyage of 600 r/t miles, with speeds up to 70 mph. The hubs did get a little warm, but not bad, I did grease gun them up just a little before my return trip - no problems. My added weight load was around 400 pounds. Does anyone have a source (part number) for replacement bearings, without buying a new US hubs and bearings? I would not mind carrying an extra set on my Kayak road trips.
I just purchased this trailer (used) yet had no idea how to fold it up. The previous owner had never done that so he was no help.
Mike, I appreciate the video! And thanks for not droning on and on....just a simply made video that showed me everything I need to know about folding up my trailer! 5 stars, Mike! :-)
Thanks!
I love Mum explaining everything to the little girl in the background.....So cute!
I like the 2x4 support elements on the bottom and the "holder" that keeps the two halfs together.
Pro tip….release the back half of the trailer first and unfold it past 90 degrees, hold in place w a cam strap. The back half will act as a counter weight so you’ll have much less mass coming toward u when you drop the front half to horizontal.
That is a good way but the license plate will hit and bend - most suggest a hinge or other way for the plate to move without damage
Finally someone who knows how it should be done, I’ve seen more how to videos that are made by people who don’t understand the mechanism or just don’t grasp basic physics or mechanical principles on this subject than I can keep track of.
Well done and thank you.
Thanks!
I like the weather and the surroundings. So peaceful
Living dangerously with the flip flops lol. Thanks for the vid!
Can’t stand mfrs that wear flips flops.
Thank you for posting this! Just got my first fold a trailer
i was this many years old when i realized i could play it in reverse to see how to put it away 😂 thanks mr. butterstick!
Great video always wanted to know and see how it's set up I know the concept but it's great to see it
Awesome video. Will purchase this now knowing it can fit in my shed. Thank you!🙂
I see myself dropping it on my head. thank you for sharing
You might get away with a light load by only using two bolts, but for highway stability and pushing a 1,000 pounds plus cargo (1,750 trailer), you would be best to place 2-3 more bolts in locking the two half's together; not much holding the back if you don't - I wish Harbor Freight would highlight this point. Thanks, good video!
You are probably right - if there is too much weight on the back half of the back frame, it could cause problems.
Tjank you for the heads up no one really says that
I was going to comment on the same thing. There are actually 6 bolts that are suppose to be attached after unfolding; 2 carriage bolts (square holes) on the side that Mike showed, 2 carriage bolts (square holes) under and other side of leaf spring, and 2 middle section bolts gartmi27358 mentioned.
In addition, the extra wire length or disconnect connectors you need in the middle where it folds and the tongue where it folds; just a heads up
Agreed. I’m not gonna second guess the engineers on that. But, I’m curious if there is any kind of quick release hardware solution that could be used in place of the threaded bolts, such as the pins that are used to secure the front tongue triangle in place. Perhaps something that has a similar or greater resistance to shearing as the threaded bolts.
Very nice quick and concise!
Great video. Definitely buying one.
It's quite dangerous on an unstable ground. While pushing to lock the drawbar, it can topple and fall on an unaware child hanging around. (1:08)
2:07 has the answer
There are two middle bolts to add in addition to the two on the sides. I wish they had a clamping or locking system. There should be printed instructions on how to remove the rear seal on the hub and the need to replace the packing grease with proper hi temp axel grease. Be sure to buy extra seals for assembly just in case. The inside corners of the two sections where the hinge is need redesign- such a pain to bolt down. Instructions should explain the need for the 4 screws and grease replacement.
Yes, all good comments
I thought the same thing. He’s not using all the bolts and is basically depending on 2 bolts to hold the front half of the trailer to the back half.
@@chipbashforth1213 4 - the hinge and the two bolts on the rear.
I learned how to open a garage too
Brother, considering this trailer so thank you. But I would not be pushing or pulling that thing on its casters in sandals. Thanks for posting this .
Helpful video. I was curious how much space it took up in the garage since I don't have a ton available.
I'm also laughing at all the comments worrying about you smashing a toe. I wonder how many of them wear steel-toed boots when working around the house. Because if they think the thin cloth on the top of a pair of sneakers is going to protect them any more than nothing at all they are in for a shock when they drop something on their toe.
It's about 75 inches tall (73 without the front bracket), 64 inches wide (fender to fender) and about 24 inches deep (mostly the tire)
There is another YT video demonstrating this with one exception; First step unfolding, lower back half of trailer.
Last Step in folding, raise back half.
Lessens amount of weight on the tongue side you have to mess with.
Plus it sort of plants the trailer when deploying the tongue or folding it.
I think I have seen that - maybe I have a slightly different setup, but I think that would mess up my license plate
Just ordered the Super Duty from Harbor Freight. I plan on making two new hinge plate sets to allow for easy folding with 3/4" plywood. I would think these might/should be available online somewhere? It doesn't make sense to have only 1/2" plywood, or having a trailer that won't fold evenly if you use 3/4" plywood.
Hell, I've seen a video where a guy uses 5/4 decking. Of course he wasn't folding it, but still... they should be bigger.
Using a taller hinge is definitely the best way to address the small gap. Let me know if you find one that works
@@maetb I received my 1720lbs Super Duty last week and I assembled it this weekend. (after painting it with a FrankenStrat style) and though I don't have plywood on it yet, the top of the side frames are 2" apart while folded. The distance between the bolt heads is a bit less than 1.5", but it's no issue to countersink plywood for them.
One thing I noticed, the side frame bolt holes CLOSEST to the front/rear joint are *elongated* allowing you to move the pivot point up at least a 1/4". This will add an overall 1/2" more space.
Whether or not they ALL come like that, I don't know. Maybe they modified the hole from being simply round because of complaints about 3/4" plywood not fitting.
Anyway, when I'm able to get a mortgage for a piece of plywood and install it, I'll update you.
@@rusosure7 awesome - I wouldn't be surprised if they have fixed that, since it's a common complaint. Let me know how it goes
Sir, I just bought the same trailer, and did some research on it, and it states that you need to replace the wheel bearing with new grease on them. When I saw the wheel bearings they were pack with grease. What do you recommend??
I disassembled the hubs, sprayed and soaked the bearings with brake cleaner, then repacked the bearings with new grease. Once you have done that, as long as you use the same grease, repacking in the future is a little faster since you don't have to fully clean off the bearings
So the trailer has two bolts attaching the center cross pieces together. I notice you don't install them as per the manual. Encounter any issues?
Did you build the trailer?
I'm building mine right now. In the intructions it shows putting 2 bolts through the center cross members??? Which would mean 4 bolts to put in and take out to fold/unfold.
Also it seems and I'm going to have to bring in my instructions ... the bracket for the axel and spring also seems to bolt to the back frame????
Hope you're still around ... I had to stop and take a break last night because nothing in the instructions is clarifying how much do I have to bolt / unbolt to fold / unfold normally. So I'm sitting here thinking I've put the damn thing together wrong.
There are a lot of comments here, but if you read through there are some conversations about how I do not use the bolts that attach the front section to the back because it would make folding more difficult, and I don't think they add much strength. I do bolt the rear section to the axle section after unfolding.
@@maetb
I did notice you putting the 2 bolts in the side of the axle section. But I didn't see you insert the carriage type bolts underneath the springs ...
Thanks for getting back on this. There are times that I over think things.
Appreciate the video. It makes the buying decision so much easier. You think Haul Master would make this video but I guess why bother whn they have you to sell thier products for them. :)
I'm now trying to find the right trailer to pull my 2nd Mobility scooter behind me. Enjoyed this video, but being the old fart I am now at 70, here's some HELPFUL ADVICE; #!) NEVER lay anything like tools ON THE GROUND! Put it UP within easy reach.. #2) NEVER walk away from anything you lean UPRIGHT, if it falls your Skull may get broken. #3) Never let kids around you when you assemble a trailer of big object. #4). NEVER do anything dangerous, tree cutting, Roof and Ladder work OR Digging without a Cell phone ON YOU!, and let someone know ahead of time, what you intend to do. My neighbor fell from his roof, wife's away for 2 days.. He climbed up ladder at 10pm, fell, broke his collar bone and 3 ribs. NO PHONE ON HIM! Rain brought him to conciousness 3 hrs later. I heard him begging for help. . Avoid Tremendous pain. . . WORK SAFE!! THINK!! sorry for the length :(
Ok thanks for the video. Question..how much of a gap between the 2 pieces of plywood to assure proper fold. Also didn't notice light kit. Does it scrape the ground when folded?
Maybe a quarter-inch gap after folding. There is a light kit on it. When folded, nothing scrapes. Sometimes the license plate scrapes if you tilt the trailer too much when unfolded
@@maetb Got it. Will be purchasing this weekend. Really watched a ton of videos and I think this is perfect for my small garage and 12ft kayak
Thanks for the video. Can you tell me what the height is of the trailer when folded and upright? I'd like to get one and want to make sure it'll fit in the space. Thanks again!
It's about 75 inches tall (73 without the front bracket), 64 inches wide (fender to fender) and about 24 inches deep (mostly the tire)
@@maetb Cheers Mike!
Thanks for the vid. I bought a used trailer just like yours. To fold it, I had to remove 4 bolts. The two you reinstalled at the 3:00 mark. And two more that are forward of the two you installed. You must go underneath the trailer to remove the nuts for the other two bolts. Is it necessary to reinstall four bolts? Or just the two in the vid?
You are supposed to do the 4 bolts, but from my experience the two in the sides are sufficient to secure the rear deck for most trips and loads. I could imagine some cases where you may want to do the two that connect the two decks, but I never do.
@@maetb That makes sense. Hauling fire wood, heavy load, 4 bolts. Basic load to the dumps, maybe 200 lbs of load, 2 bolts...
I recognize those sandals. All Swift drivers wear them.
LOL why would He ? I be so afraid of running over my toes with that trailer. Shit wear work boots.and their is a hill
Great video - thanks!! If you are loading something like a riding mower on this, can you tip it down or do you need ramps?
You would need ramps - the folding aspect is not intended for loading. You could probably get creative and figure something out, but I wouldn't advise it
How did you attach the 2x3’s to the metal frame?
Just uploaded a video describing this here : th-cam.com/video/MSYPhDhIq1M/w-d-xo.html
Good demo. I'm thinking of getting one of these maybe next month as mainly motorcycle hauling (400-500 lb sportsbike) for out of town trips. Debating in getting the 1200-ish or 1800. Either one, mods will be thin plyboards, rails, ramp, chock, maybe winch w/bar.
Yeah, I think the main benefit with these trailers is the low upfront cost - they definitely need some modding to be fully functional
I have a sloping driveway, and realized the folded trailer with tongue in the air is just a few inches higher than my garage ceiling is tall. I can still unfold it in there but it's definitely precarious unfolding the tongue and tilting it forward at the same time. How's the paint holding up?
Paint is ok - I store it inside mostly, but have left it outside for stretches. That will definitely affect the life of the finish
What happen to the two bolts that hold the two frame pieces together where the hinge is located under the deck? Don't need them to keep the two haves together
?
I don't use them. Between the hinges holding the two halves together and the two bolts holding the rear half to the axle, it seems secure
I almost bought a maverick hybrid but I don't really need a truck. Mayne only once or twice a year to go to home depot and do diy home projects. Should I buy a foldable utility trailer instead and add a hitch to my Nissan leaf so I can haul stuff whenever I need it??
It would certainly be less expensive than a new vehicle, and can carry 4x8 sheets of plywood. A truck is probably easier to use because you always have the bed, where with a trailer you have to get it out and set up. There is also the extra registration (in my state at least), and the initial setup (adding a hitch, assembling the trailer, etc.)
Can I use this for a kayak?
It can certainly handle the weight. The main part of the trailer is 8ft, but you could probably overhang a little on the front and a little in the back.
I am building one now. It says to connect the two half’s so how does it fold if we screw them together?
You have to unbolt the two halves to fold it, that is why I have omitted those bolts. It is secure enough without them (in my opinion)
@@maetb oh there are a few carriage bolts as well. Do you need to remove those too it seems. My front folding part doesn’t seem to line up well with the pins in the front. Maybe I didn’t square it enough?
Whats the weight on this will it fit in the back of a truck.going to bike week and hotels wont allow trailers?
I think this would be too big to fit in a truck bed, but there are smaller ones. All assembled with the plywood deck this probably weighs 300lbs, which would also be a challenge to get in a truck bed
@@maetb thanks i will check them out
Not sure if you still have this trailer, but if you do Can you tell me? What is the distance between each Of the rails in the bed.
It's a 4x8 trailer, so there is about 4 feet between the side rails, and there are cross-members about every 2 feet front-to-back. Let me know if you need more info
This safe for roads??
Yes - it is DOT approved and registered to be towed on the road.
Thanks for the video, I've been considering this trailer and you helped me make up my mind. I'm going to get a 5'x8' aluminum trailer from Fleet Farm instead. I'd love the folding feature but it's just too flimsy to trust on the road.
tomj528 i thought it was flimsy too till i bought and put together with a buddy. We were amazed how tough and strong these trailers were for the price. You should see how i load my ATV on it. Lol lets just say its a Strong little trailer and gets the job done. Look at how many are up for sale used on Craigslist or offerup you be surprised if you find any used. People keep them after buying.
I was thinking about getting this trailer and welding it up for reinforcement.
ya, great trailer, but I wouldn't be assembling it in flip-flops. that's asking for a messed up foot.
Agreed. The flip-flop sound was truly annoying.
Curious why you don't use the "U" block to prop up the tongue after you bring it down?
I agree!! I’m kind of bias as I own a franchise Red Wing Shoe store lol. Safety first!!
I know the deck size is 48" wide but do you think I can squeeze a 50" wide side by side? what is the spacing between the wheel wells?
Yes, there is a out 50.5" between the fenders, but you would have to raise whatever you want to pu in above the hinges, as they slick in slightly.
aren't there a couple bolts that are underneath the bed that connect the front and back half together (once folded down)? Maybe those are only used during assembly?
Yes, I think you are right. Since I fold and unfold this regularly, I only use the two bolts that hold the back section down. It feel sufficiently secure using only those two bolts
@@maetb thanks for replying (and making the video). I just wanted to check since my plan is to push right up against the weight limit to haul top soil, and I don't want to miss anything (and the instructions were pretty good, but not perfect).
I had the same question. I am mid-way through assembly and I could not for the life of me figure out how it was going to fold with those two bolts in the mide section. Thanks.
Hi, did you go with 1/2 , or 3/4 thickness on the 4×8 plywood? I am getting one this Wednesday from HF. Thank you!
I believe if you use 3/4 inch plywood, you will not be able to fold it up without changing the geometry of the hinge. I used half-inch pressure-treated plywood, and I put some 2x3 supports under them to support the wood between the metal frames
@@maetb that's smart! I see what you did, had to watch it again. Thank you very much for the quick reply.🙂
@@maetb where did you get 2x3 wood?
@@lblerg I cut a pressure-treated 2x4 to the right width on the table saw. You can also get non-PT 2x3s at a home center or lumberyard
Yes, found at the correct Lowes. Not a common size. Had to cut the ends to about 2x2.5 to get them to fit but this looks to strengthen the entire structure. Going to put my motorcycle on it. Hope i'm not pushing it too much!
Casually has boat in the garage
Mike, what are you using for the deck? Do you have any issues with the deck edges getting crushed together when the two halves are folded? I watched another video of folding /unfolding and saw they weren't flat against one another (although yours doesn't seem to have that problem).
Sorry for the delayed reply - I have 1/2" pressure treated plywood on there. I added 2x3 supports under the deck to deal with the thinner wood.
How much does it wieght
I think the box from the store is something like 250lbs.
good video
Awesome, thanks!
Great video. The first time trying to fold and unfold was a pain and the rear slammed down bending my license plate. Thankfully no structural damage. Do you plan on doing a maintenance video at some point? Like cleaning/greasing/replacing the hub bearings? Have not found a good resource for that yet and the instructions are quite lacking.
Thanks, I am glad you found it helpful! The hubs are just like almost any trailer hub, so there should be plenty of videos about that.
@@maetb Good to know, will have to look them up. Have used it for a total of maybe 100-200miles on short trips. Will have to look up the maintenance schedule for these things. Thankfully keeping it in the garage to keep it healthy.
How tall is the trailer when in storage?
About 75 inches tall, 63 inches wide (fender to fender) and 24 inches deep (mostly the tires)
I just hope uncle Jake takes good care of the trailer
He's pretty responsible
Is this a tilt trailer?
No, not technically. It folds for storage, but I don't think it would tilt well for loading or unloading
Yes, absolutely it tilts for loading. I use this as my 4x4 trailer. Even built a little 14' removable extension up front to side load a small chinese 125cc quad for the kids. I have accidentally overloaded a few times and still love it!
What is the total height of the trailer when in it’s upright folded position? Making sure it will fit in my garage. Thanks!
Hey McCoy! My trailer is about 55" folded up (this includes pulling the two main pins and folding the trailer hitch down. Have a helper the first time or two that you fold it up is helpful. :-)
I just found this trailer in an abandoned shed on property I recently purchased. I have most of the parts. Can I order what I don't have to rebuild it
I don't know if harbor freight sells parts, but depending on what you are missing, you should be able to buy most of the hardware at a hardware store
only 1/2" would fit on mine when it folder up. hinge wouldn't allow 3/4". 1/2" plenty strong after adding some extra beams.
Hi, good video. Is that the 1195 lb or 1720 lb capacity trailer? Ty.
Isn't the 1720 the only one with the solid axle?
I'm not sure.
It's the 1195 lb capacity.
Do you know how tall and wide it is folded up?
It's about 75 inches tall (73 without the front bracket), 64 inches wide (fender to fender) and about 24 inches deep (mostly the tire)
@@maetb Thank you :D
Is that your real last name?
No, close
Great
Price?
Does anybody know if these have to be registered with the DMV?
Yes, if you pull it on the roads it needs to be registered, though the rules may vary state to state
if u leave that drill on ground too long the concrete will kill the battery
How fast are the tires rated for on highway?
They are Carlisle Sport Trail LH 4.8x12. I can't find anything about what speed they are rated for specifically. I should note these were not the tires that came with the trailer, but the replacements Harbor Freight offered as a recall
these are 55 mph, if you need highway speed go to e trailer
How fast would someone want to go pulling one of these? Wouldn't keep up with usual traffic going 70, but I'd probably stick to the slow lane.
Dang that looks like its going to fall.
there are 4 more bolts that you didn’t put in
I think there are 2 more that connect the front bed to the rear of the bed. I haven't used these and don't think it decreases the strength or safety of the trailer when assembled in this way. The rear section is attached to the front through the hinges, and to the axle through the bolts I added in this video.
Looks like a ping pong table.
Has anybody read how fast the suggested MPH rating is on these trailers,most of the MPH rating are less than 50 MPH and I'm sure that most people run faster than that.
After I bought this, there was a recall on the tires. I brought the old ones to harbor freight and they gave me a new set. I looked it up and they are rated for 87 mph. They are carlisle sport trail lh 4.8x12
@@maetb I was really looking into purchasing said unit,but I noticed that most of the small trailers were not rated for speeds over 50 MPH and that was not exclusive to harbor freight will give a closer look.Thanks
A legend. Constructed in thongs. 🇦🇺👍🍺
haha "Uncle Jake has a lot of ... "Tomato Plants""
Those are the wrong shoes to have on to do that job, I was waiting for a smashed toe or foot.
Those are not shoes....
Looks like a human mouse trap.
Flip flop flip flop youre going to trip on youre and sometjing going go pop pop pop wrong shoes to do this with safety first but good video
And yet, lovely color coordination with the clothes and the garage siding.
Can somebody else please make the same video and do it with a camera angle and distance that is actually helpful?
What can I help you with? Let me know what it is you can't see or would like to know.
@@maetb What bolts did you re-install? The manual wants four bolts removed looks like you just did two.
@@cara2u I use the two bolts that hold the rear frame to the axel assembly. There are two more that connect the rear frame to the front frame, but they are hard to get to, and the frame is already attached to the front frame via the hinges.
I was waiting for it to fall.
Make sure you keep those bearings greased and do not exceed 50 miles an hour. I bought one of those trailers in 2005 and enclosed it. I was driving down the boulevard one day and saw a cloud of smoke behind me thought it was on fire I pulled over and the bearings had burned out of it only half of a cotter pin was holding the wheel on. Always remember you get what you pay for. Cost me two hundred bucks and then I assembled it used it for maybe 4 months and that was it
Seth Wolfe You are right - I use it pretty lightly and usually for short drives. Have had it several years though, and no problems so far.
Mike Butterstick I just bought the same trailer. You make it look super easy! (: What did you do in order for the fold up/down so easy? Help?
The real key for me was that u-shaped thing I made to hold the two bed sections together while folding/unfolding. It definitely takes some trial and error to feel comfortable
Mike Butterstick Thanks. Do you have a video for that? I’m new to this and right now I have to bolt/unbolt every time - not going to work. It’s got to be easier. Thanks.
I made a maiden voyage of 600 r/t miles, with speeds up to 70 mph. The hubs did get a little warm, but not bad, I did grease gun them up just a little before my return trip - no problems. My added weight load was around 400 pounds. Does anyone have a source (part number) for replacement bearings, without buying a new US hubs and bearings? I would not mind carrying an extra set on my Kayak road trips.
I wear boots, just sayin...
Guy with flip flops on putting a tralier togather hmm i rather watch paint dry
But you took the time to comment?
@@maetb yep i sure did . flip flop man lol
Put some proper shoes on for Gods sake!!
i can see maybe 13 or 14 secounds of wasted time. LOL
First of all put some shoes, second that thing is dangerous.
Explain...
Rookie in action. Folding the tongue up first is just asking for an accident 🫣
It works for me. How many times of doing this way until I'm not a rookie? This is 4 years old and the trailer wasn't new then
@@maetb th-cam.com/video/DolNU41LhRQ/w-d-xo.html