Your design is my favorite for an enclosed trailer. Building this now, thanks for sharing. Great idea about using the parts on the outside for the 2x4's, I was mulling over how to build the walls. I love how it just locks together.
REALLY WELL DONE! Thank you so much for this video - way beyond helpful. I'm going to utilize just about everything you mentioned here, and you have saved me a bunch of time (and money). Not sure how the front box is attached to the cargo box and frame, but no doubt will figure that out. OH! AND please tell us what that sliding corner bracket connector thingie is called - I have searched for every guess I can come up with to find it online, without success (gotta have the proper name of that thing). You da man! UPDATE: It is called a "Corner Stake Rack Connector" - Never would have guessed that one 😛
They are called lug nuts, you should also carry a hub and bearing set with the tools to change it out. A grease gun is also a good thing to bring along too.
I really liked the smaller one. But I need one a bit bigger than your Larger one. I'm going to go do the DIY thing myself because enclosed cargo trailers are simply just too expensive for what I need. Yours looks really nice too. Deck paint idea was great. those corner latches are unavailable now.
its nice that your spare tire is out of the weather. The A frame rack is a great idea. like a glass rack. Are those little trailer axles prearched like a big trailer?
How did you attach that Self-Stor Step - Mount on the red Harbor Freight trailer. I have this trailer and got the step mount to do what you did but the step mount has 2 holes to bolt it on with but the holes match up to only 2 inches of air on the trailer bar.
@@UrbanWoodsman87 Forgive me if you posted it, but I have the same issue. On the bottom of the bar you're mounting this on is an inch or so slice that runs down the entire length. I purchased it from your link, any tips would be great. Great video btw.
The biggest con of small utility trailers is that by the time you see the trailer swing into your mirrors, it's probably too late to correct it whilst going backwards, I.E. the further you go back once it's swung into your mirrors it's already jack knifed or will simply lose its straight trajectory etc. The only exception to this tendency is when you have a wide trailer. At least you'll be able to catch it on your mirrors
Torx and Robertson drive are more commonly used then Phillips or screwdriver versions. They are security screws and their drivers to remove them at harbor freight if stolen plates are common in your area
So many questions but not sure if this is the forum or DM? I’ve been floating around TH-cam looking at everyone’s fantastic ideas on what THEY have done but most are for the 4x8 trailer and not our 40x48 HF #1090. The corner side bracket latches are a must without no doubt if you’re looking for the versatility of side rails or flatbed. I hate the slots in the trailer for the side rail braces and I’m debating with the getting some U-shaped brackets…which means I have to remove the one I have now and go with just a plain sheet of plywood with no cut outs. With the side rail brace posts, have you thought of replacing the carriage bolt/screw with a bolt and hitch pin with small chains on the hitch pins? That way you would be able to remove all the rails. My thoughts…and I drift…I have an idea to install or fabricate a stand to this trailer. Problem is when you lift it on end and the way the lights stick out beyond the rear rail, you will crush the headlights. I saw a previous guy I’m following from Minnesota that flashed a quick video of the back (2 seconds) with his wheel caddie arrangement but it’s been 1 week now and he’s not monitoring his site to respond. So I’m wondering if an HF #1090 trailerheads have designed a way to stand this trailer on its end like the 4x8 clanheads? I’d be interested in any thoughts…
As much as I'd love the simplicity of a bolt and hitch pin for the side posts, on this small of a trailer makes it a little too easy for a thief to get the sides off and steal what's in the trailer. 4 bolts isn't such an inconvenience in my mind. My idea for a stand would include protective brackets that would keep the lights from getting damaged. Sadly too many hobbies, projects and a buisy life with kids + wife + work has kept it from me. Some Day.
I mention the hitch pins simply because I would like to switch back and forth between flat bed and rails…and the idea of bolting and unbolting seems annoying…but that’s another way of looking at it. Thanx again
Could someone get 2 of these smaller half trailer kits and then weld them together? I ask this because, after you go above 4 by 8 in size on these utility trailers, the price jumps a TON. And in theory you could still save money by just putting 2 together with welded bars linking the 2 of them together and cutting off the extra tow hitch. Curious what others think on this? Thanks.
Harbor freight does sell a 4x8 trailer and sometime over the summer 2024 a 5x10. I'm not sure what deminsions exactly you are wanting but you can mix and match pieces from the other trailer sizes theoretical.
Great ideas, thanks!!! What thickness of plywood did you use for the sides and top of the HF trailer? I want mine to be as light as possible so I can move it around my property easily.
If you have say 1000 pounds to tow, or 800 or whatever... my question is does it pull the same or diferently if you are pulling the weight from behind instead of having it on the car's body itself? Is it better for the same amount of weight to be pulled instead of on the axle and body weight of the car itself? (Assuming not a truck pulling). Thank you very much. Your video is helpful.
Ok, so with years and years of pulling many sized trailers, absolutely the heavier the trailer + cargo affects the vehicles mpg as the transmission works harder to haul the extra weight. Putting 300 pounds of bricks in your trunk is no big deal BUT, saying you have 1000 pounds of cargo to move, it is better to tow it on a trailer than it is to load it into the vehicle: The extra wear and tear on the frame and suspension of the vehicle is not good. As you will find in simple research every towing bar and vehicle has a maximum hitch weight. Generally for SUV's, Cars, and Small trucks you dont want your tongue/hitch weight any more than 200 pounds. Dispersion of cargo weight is very important concentrating it over the trailers axle as best you can. For my SUV's I aim for that tongue weight to be around 70-150 pounds.
With a few holes drilled in the frame you can bolt a hitch receiver on the back of any trailer. As for loading anything on the top. It all depends on how you design the sides and lid for structural support so yes it can be done.
Which GA harbor freight you got this from? Been to three already and they have all told me they can't order the 40 x 48. They only have the 4 x 8 in stock.
Hi. Just curious, to what max speed have you taken this trailer? Some "sellers" of this trailer state 45mph max but it seems many people are going beyond that with no issues. I want one, but not if it has any issues on the freeway, up to 65mph. Thanks
Just this past weekend it went 4 hours each way on a camping trip filled with about 400 lbs of stuff and pulled beautifully on the highways speeds ranging between 55-75. The trailer frame really doesn't mater with speeds, its all about the tires. the speed rating on the tires on my trailer are (N) which equivalates to top speed of 87mph. It's always good to drive on the slower side and watch your amount of sway. Proper load distribution is very important.
@@UrbanWoodsman87 Nice. Are you talking about the red trailer? I have that exact trailer but with 8 inch wheels. Everyone I have spoken to so far also states they have had no problems on the freeway in the 65 to 70mph range, and that its important to check the bearings and grease more frequently with smaller wheels, due to higher temperatures and more revolutions. I am not planning on racing with it, haha, but going 65 is a must. Think I will be doing the spare tire cubby like yours, thats a nice/clean mod. Thanks again
@@rkstreeper1 Yes, the red HF trailer. The first time I bought one they had the 8in wheels, but they stopped with those and went to the 12 in wheels. You might want to call HF and ask about the fact that they quit selling those tires with the trailer very likely because of the safety of such small tires for highway speeds. They might give you a coupon to get new 12in wheels to replace. If you plan to use the trailer for more highway travel I highly recomend the 12in tires for those temp and revolution concerns. Overall the trailer will tow better and the tire tread will last much longer with the 12's. Best of luck and happy towing.
The frame is rated for 1090 pounds, the Carlisle Sport Trail LH tires that it comes with are 72N. 72 being the load index of 783 pounds per tire and N is the speed rating of 87 mph. Mine has already had over 600 miles of highway driving at no more than 70mph speed and doing fantastic. I'm not sure were you got your info from but it makes no logical sense that a Utility trailer that meets all DOT and federal requirements for road use be labeled by manufacture for such a low speed. Hope that helps.
@@UrbanWoodsman87 i do recall my trailer also stating somewhere that it is rated only for 45. I have driven it at 70mph consistently with no issues. I think the tire rating is more important than what the manufacturer states, but it could be the way the axle is designed or something that the speed is concerned. not entirely sure.
It's in the Haul Master owner's manual. I don't WHY Haul Master limits to 45 mph. They're dodging responsibility for something somewhere. ;-) I have a photo from the owner's manual at i0.wp.com/stealthgti.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/haulmaster-speed.jpg. Take Care!
I just finished building my HFT trailer model # 62665, I was looking at videos here to get ideas on how to finish it off. Can you tell me where you got the front stand, the corner mounts, stake pockets and the rear bumper strip ? I appreciate you taking the time to make this video. I’ve had both of these trailers before.
th-cam.com/video/-tu-48lyEbQ/w-d-xo.html many questions answered in this video. For the the stake pockets and other extra harbor freight parts are from the parts catalog on the HF website, you call the 1800 # and can order them. the Rubber bumper and front stand I got off Amazon. In my Q & A video I go over how I mounted that stand on the trailer tongue. Links are listed in this video's description.
It's not that terribly difficult to do. Even if I had the time and energy to make several of them and sell them I would hate the repetition of the work.
I just bought one at the West Palm Beach, FL HFT, it was #62665, they are out there, you may have to drive a bit to find one in stock, but be persistent
Nice work! I have the 3.5x5-ft trailer and love it. I've done some customizing. See details at th-cam.com/video/gDvo3jwrZno/w-d-xo.html, if you're interested.
Your design is my favorite for an enclosed trailer. Building this now, thanks for sharing. Great idea about using the parts on the outside for the 2x4's, I was mulling over how to build the walls. I love how it just locks together.
Don't forget to watch the Q&A video I did for the trailer.
REALLY WELL DONE! Thank you so much for this video - way beyond helpful. I'm going to utilize just about everything you mentioned here, and you have saved me a bunch of time (and money). Not sure how the front box is attached to the cargo box and frame, but no doubt will figure that out. OH! AND please tell us what that sliding corner bracket connector thingie is called - I have searched for every guess I can come up with to find it online, without success (gotta have the proper name of that thing). You da man!
UPDATE: It is called a "Corner Stake Rack Connector" - Never would have guessed that one 😛
Please take a look at the Q&A video I did that gives a bit more detail. th-cam.com/video/-tu-48lyEbQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=PCyttO89bna_uCUb
They are called lug nuts, you should also carry a hub and bearing set with the tools to change it out. A grease gun is also a good thing to bring along too.
A lot of good info to take in, thanks for sharing!
take a look at my Q&A video for more detailed info and thanks for watching.
I really liked the smaller one. But I need one a bit bigger than your Larger one. I'm going to go do the DIY thing myself because enclosed cargo trailers are simply just too expensive for what I need. Yours looks really nice too. Deck paint idea was great. those corner latches are unavailable now.
its nice that your spare tire is out of the weather. The A frame rack is a great idea. like a glass rack. Are those little trailer axles prearched like a big trailer?
Would like to see the lumber rack for the sheets of plywood
Thank you for this over-the-top and extremely well thought-out and detailed video, I'm very grateful for your share.
Also watch the Q & A video th-cam.com/video/-tu-48lyEbQ/w-d-xo.html
Excellent video, very practical. Nice job.
Good video. I saved it to do my trailer with.
How did you attach that Self-Stor Step - Mount on the red Harbor Freight trailer. I have this trailer and got the step mount to do what you did but the step mount has 2 holes to bolt it on with but the holes match up to only 2 inches of air on the trailer bar.
Hey, I will post a short video on it this afternoon on how I got it on there. check in with the channel around 4 pm est I should have it up by then.
@@UrbanWoodsman87 Forgive me if you posted it, but I have the same issue. On the bottom of the bar you're mounting this on is an inch or so slice that runs down the entire length. I purchased it from your link, any tips would be great. Great video btw.
th-cam.com/video/-tu-48lyEbQ/w-d-xo.html questions answered in this video.
I am concerned about weight. Did you weight your Harbor freight trailor after the build? also what size plywood?
The biggest con of small utility trailers is that by the time you see the trailer swing into your mirrors, it's probably too late to correct it whilst going backwards, I.E. the further you go back once it's swung into your mirrors it's already jack knifed or will simply lose its straight trajectory etc. The only exception to this tendency is when you have a wide trailer. At least you'll be able to catch it on your mirrors
Adding extended posts on the corners would help with that.
Whilst . Isn’t that in the King James language?
@@c50ge "Whilst" and "while" are interchangeable with Brits preferring "whilst" and normal people preferring "while".
@@c50ge my favourite version of the Bible is the King James Version.
@@indodaemdaka
I hit that one on the head!
Even a blind squirrel gets a nut once in a while.
Torx and Robertson drive are more commonly used then Phillips or screwdriver versions. They are security screws and their drivers to remove them at harbor freight if stolen plates are common in your area
Did the side stake brackets fit existing holes or did you have to drill more?
So many questions but not sure if this is the forum or DM? I’ve been floating around TH-cam looking at everyone’s fantastic ideas on what THEY have done but most are for the 4x8 trailer and not our 40x48 HF #1090. The corner side bracket latches are a must without no doubt if you’re looking for the versatility of side rails or flatbed. I hate the slots in the trailer for the side rail braces and I’m debating with the getting some U-shaped brackets…which means I have to remove the one I have now and go with just a plain sheet of plywood with no cut outs. With the side rail brace posts, have you thought of replacing the carriage bolt/screw with a bolt and hitch pin with small chains on the hitch pins? That way you would be able to remove all the rails. My thoughts…and I drift…I have an idea to install or fabricate a stand to this trailer. Problem is when you lift it on end and the way the lights stick out beyond the rear rail, you will crush the headlights. I saw a previous guy I’m following from Minnesota that flashed a quick video of the back (2 seconds) with his wheel caddie arrangement but it’s been 1 week now and he’s not monitoring his site to respond. So I’m wondering if an HF #1090 trailerheads have designed a way to stand this trailer on its end like the 4x8 clanheads? I’d be interested in any thoughts…
As much as I'd love the simplicity of a bolt and hitch pin for the side posts, on this small of a trailer makes it a little too easy for a thief to get the sides off and steal what's in the trailer. 4 bolts isn't such an inconvenience in my mind. My idea for a stand would include protective brackets that would keep the lights from getting damaged. Sadly too many hobbies, projects and a buisy life with kids + wife + work has kept it from me. Some Day.
@@UrbanWoodsman87 Appreciate the response, if I come up with an idea I’ll get back with you
I mention the hitch pins simply because I would like to switch back and forth between flat bed and rails…and the idea of bolting and unbolting seems annoying…but that’s another way of looking at it. Thanx again
Could someone get 2 of these smaller half trailer kits and then weld them together? I ask this because, after you go above 4 by 8 in size on these utility trailers, the price jumps a TON. And in theory you could still save money by just putting 2 together with welded bars linking the 2 of them together and cutting off the extra tow hitch. Curious what others think on this? Thanks.
Harbor freight does sell a 4x8 trailer and sometime over the summer 2024 a 5x10. I'm not sure what deminsions exactly you are wanting but you can mix and match pieces from the other trailer sizes theoretical.
@@UrbanWoodsman87 Thanks 4 the reply!
Great ideas, thanks!!! What thickness of plywood did you use for the sides and top of the HF trailer? I want mine to be as light as possible so I can move it around my property easily.
Have you ever thought of doing an upgrade on the axle/tires?
not for this size trailer, its already able to haul 700 pounds and the tires are just fine for on the roads.
If you have say 1000 pounds to tow, or 800 or whatever... my question is does it pull the same or diferently if you are pulling the weight from behind instead of having it on the car's body itself? Is it better for the same amount of weight to be pulled instead of on the axle and body weight of the car itself? (Assuming not a truck pulling).
Thank you very much. Your video is helpful.
Ok, so with years and years of pulling many sized trailers, absolutely the heavier the trailer + cargo affects the vehicles mpg as the transmission works harder to haul the extra weight. Putting 300 pounds of bricks in your trunk is no big deal BUT, saying you have 1000 pounds of cargo to move, it is better to tow it on a trailer than it is to load it into the vehicle: The extra wear and tear on the frame and suspension of the vehicle is not good. As you will find in simple research every towing bar and vehicle has a maximum hitch weight. Generally for SUV's, Cars, and Small trucks you dont want your tongue/hitch weight any more than 200 pounds. Dispersion of cargo weight is very important concentrating it over the trailers axle as best you can. For my SUV's I aim for that tongue weight to be around 70-150 pounds.
@@UrbanWoodsman87 Thank you!
Do u know if I can park a 4x8 utility trailer in driveway? I live in clovis ca
What is that handle looking thing near the hitch? Looks pretty slick.
This would be quite good for a smaller car like a Mitsubishi Mirage, which has a somewhat weak CVT transmission, with a 3 cylinder, 78 HP engine.
Are you using 1/2" sheets of plywood?
Watch MY Q&A video for the answer.
Can a 2inch hitch be installed in the rear to load up a bike rack? Also can a rooftop trailer installed in top?
With a few holes drilled in the frame you can bolt a hitch receiver on the back of any trailer. As for loading anything on the top. It all depends on how you design the sides and lid for structural support so yes it can be done.
Which GA harbor freight you got this from? Been to three already and they have all told me they can't order the 40 x 48. They only have the 4 x 8 in stock.
I got mine at the Brunswick Ga store. Have a manager at your store call the manager at my store and they can explain to them how to do it.
Hi, where did you get the rubber bumper?
Amazon
What’s the material of the lid of the Harbor Freight trailer?
Thin Wood.
What kind of hinges are those? :)
Found them! :)
Stake Body Utility Trailer Rack Corner Connector Wood Panel Gate Side Latch
www.ebay.com/p/1841878916
Hi. Just curious, to what max speed have you taken this trailer? Some "sellers" of this trailer state 45mph max but it seems many people are going beyond that with no issues. I want one, but not if it has any issues on the freeway, up to 65mph. Thanks
Just this past weekend it went 4 hours each way on a camping trip filled with about 400 lbs of stuff and pulled beautifully on the highways speeds ranging between 55-75. The trailer frame really doesn't mater with speeds, its all about the tires. the speed rating on the tires on my trailer are (N) which equivalates to top speed of 87mph. It's always good to drive on the slower side and watch your amount of sway. Proper load distribution is very important.
@@UrbanWoodsman87 Nice. Are you talking about the red trailer? I have that exact trailer but with 8 inch wheels. Everyone I have spoken to so far also states they have had no problems on the freeway in the 65 to 70mph range, and that its important to check the bearings and grease more frequently with smaller wheels, due to higher temperatures and more revolutions. I am not planning on racing with it, haha, but going 65 is a must. Think I will be doing the spare tire cubby like yours, thats a nice/clean mod. Thanks again
@@rkstreeper1 Yes, the red HF trailer. The first time I bought one they had the 8in wheels, but they stopped with those and went to the 12 in wheels. You might want to call HF and ask about the fact that they quit selling those tires with the trailer very likely because of the safety of such small tires for highway speeds. They might give you a coupon to get new 12in wheels to replace. If you plan to use the trailer for more highway travel I highly recomend the 12in tires for those temp and revolution concerns. Overall the trailer will tow better and the tire tread will last much longer with the 12's. Best of luck and happy towing.
Did you happen to notice that the trailer is only listed by the manufacturer for speeds up to 45mph?
The frame is rated for 1090 pounds, the Carlisle Sport Trail LH tires that it comes with are 72N. 72 being the load index of 783 pounds per tire and N is the speed rating of 87 mph. Mine has already had over 600 miles of highway driving at no more than 70mph speed and doing fantastic. I'm not sure were you got your info from but it makes no logical sense that a Utility trailer that meets all DOT and federal requirements for road use be labeled by manufacture for such a low speed. Hope that helps.
@@UrbanWoodsman87 i do recall my trailer also stating somewhere that it is rated only for 45. I have driven it at 70mph consistently with no issues. I think the tire rating is more important than what the manufacturer states, but it could be the way the axle is designed or something that the speed is concerned. not entirely sure.
It's in the Haul Master owner's manual. I don't WHY Haul Master limits to 45 mph. They're dodging responsibility for something somewhere. ;-) I have a photo from the owner's manual at i0.wp.com/stealthgti.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/haulmaster-speed.jpg. Take Care!
I just finished building my HFT trailer model # 62665, I was looking at videos here to get ideas on how to finish it off. Can you tell me where you got the front stand, the corner mounts, stake pockets and the rear bumper strip ? I appreciate you taking the time to make this video. I’ve had both of these trailers before.
th-cam.com/video/-tu-48lyEbQ/w-d-xo.html many questions answered in this video. For the the stake pockets and other extra harbor freight parts are from the parts catalog on the HF website, you call the 1800 # and can order them. the Rubber bumper and front stand I got off Amazon. In my Q & A video I go over how I mounted that stand on the trailer tongue. Links are listed in this video's description.
Can U make one for Me or do You sell them?
It's not that terribly difficult to do. Even if I had the time and energy to make several of them and sell them I would hate the repetition of the work.
Do you happened to have the trailer kit number?
I do not, but you can call their service department and they can find out for you.
I just bought one at the West Palm Beach, FL HFT, it was #62665, they are out there, you may have to drive a bit to find one in stock, but be persistent
Yeah I’ll pass on the Harbor Freight trailer.
Guess subscribers don’t warrant an answer anymore…
Brah. You talk way too much.
Talk less and show more.
lol 30 minutes
Nice work! I have the 3.5x5-ft trailer and love it. I've done some customizing. See details at th-cam.com/video/gDvo3jwrZno/w-d-xo.html, if you're interested.