Mercedes W211 4Matic Sway Bar Replacement Tip to Save Hours of Time E320 E350 E500
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ส.ค. 2024
- Mercedes W211 4matic sway bar replacement the easy way! This covers the Mercedes W211 and S211 4matic models including the E320, E500, E350 and E550.
We'll show you how to create a tool that will save your hours of time. Instead of removing the radiator and lower radiator support., you can remove the sway bar bracket in the rear.
It's a really tight fit to access the bolts for the sway bar bracket in the rear. The stubby torx bits are too wide at the base to fit by the control arm. You'll need a T50 torx bit and a cut-off tool.
The torx bit should have a 10mm base so you can fit the bit and the wrench next to the control arm. Once you get the bottom bolt out, the rest is pretty straight forward. You can use an extension with a wobble to get the top bolt, and the bolts and nuts on the sway bar links are 18mm.
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GREAT VIDEO!! and articulation - unless this doesn't work for you because you live in the RUST BELT. Here's what worked for me and saved TONS of Time. 2 hours TOPS.
FIRST off SWAP OUT the 4 REAR SWAY BAR BRACKET mounting bolts with regular head bolts so you can use a box wrench or open end wrench to tighten them down - there is plenty of clearance to tighten them down. Visit your favorite fastener supply store to get the correct thread pitch and length - bring the rear bracket with you.
Forget the special tools and tricks - I did this job this past weekend in an hour. YOU NEED TO APPLY SOME BRUTE FORCE using a grinder. You won't be able to get leverage enough to remove these bolts unless they were freshly installed - the steel bolts are rusted into the aluminum mounting brackets - save time and get a grinder.
STEP #1 Take the front lower bumper pan plastics off ( #8 nut socket head) revealing the front sway bar brackets and bolts giving you tons of access space. Remove what you can with the allen socket or apply the use of vise grips. you will discover after removing the front mounting bolts either the bracket is totally rotted as the sway bar will just drop revealing the rear bracket face - you can now see the threaded ends of the rear bracket bolts embedded in the rear bracket from the front of the car.
STEP #2 Next up grab a grinder and cut the rear bracket free of the rear mounting bolts - cut across the mounting holes revealing the steal bolts and this breaks the casing essentially crumbling the rear aluminum sway bar bracket. AGAIN - this is all done from the front of the car after removing the sway bar and front bracket. Use a spotter to watch your grinder as not to cut into the steel sway bar mount on car, ONLY CUT THE REAR ALUMINUM BRACKET (wear a mask and eye protection.) use a hammer to knock out the grinded and cut pieces of the REAR BRACKET - they will just flake off and reveal the rear sway bar mounting bolts. This sounds crude but this rear aluminum sway bar mount requires this barbaric method to save you time.
Step #3 - On re-assembly install all front brackets and bolts on front sway bar first on the ground, tighten then install the rear bolts to the rear last while holding the bar up into position using a helper. ( If you want to use OEM rear mounting bolts that's fine but not much leverage for tightening that's why I switched to regular bolt heads for rear mounting bracket and used a box/open end wrench to tighten down) trust me on this one assemble and align rear bolts into sway bar assembly last then tighten all 4 rear mounts to the car sway bar mounting frame as best you can.
NOTE -The angle at which to install the front bolts into the brackets require an angle of approach that could cause you to ruin aluminum threads. So assemble and tighten front brackets on bar first on the shop floor then hold it up to the mounting position on the car and align and loosely thread in the rear bolts to rear bracket, when all 4 are loosely attached - begin to tighten them down drawing the entire assembly into position. YOU WILL NEED TO GRIND Off a very small bump section of the lower front rad mount - to allow clearance of the front top sway bar bracket bolt - This will ease in reassembly and alignment when holding the bar up to car to position to thread in the 4 rear bracket mounting bolts.
Good Luck and be safe PLEASE USE SAFETY GLASSES AND DUST MASK - aluminum DUST is NOT GOOD. work in ventilated area and watch for sparks - have water or fire extinguisher near by. Thank me later!!
Thanks for your kind words and detailed step by step. Some good tips if your bolts are rusted tight. You're totally right about assembling the bar on the ground with brackets before reinstall. We were also looking at replacing the bolts with standard hex head fasteners for the next time, haven't gotten around to it yet!
Thanks for the tip
awesome tip brother THANK YOU!
what are the bushings you used for the front sway bar?
The brand we used was Febest. You can find them at a few retailers by searching online.
😂 All you guys! Waaay tooo much work. NO Crazy Grinder is needed! Much easier! I hit a curb and shattered both front and back swaybar clamshell bracket pieces on drivers side. So i only had to do one side and i didnt even take off the whole sway bar. Left the passenger side intact. For the front bracket allen head bolts First i cut down a allen head socket to one inch length. Next i put a jack under the front bumper and gently lifted it a pinch just to give me tad more clearance to the upper allen bolt. The bumper will flex upward slightly lifting that lower metal contraption up out of the way a little. Just go easy. Put the one inch allen wrench piece in and slipped a closed end box wrench over it and easily took the two front bolts out.
Next for the back bolts. Remove the main front big bolt for the front of the lower control arm. Real easy. Its right there in front next to the swaybar bracket. After that, go behind and use a pry bar and lever down the front of the control arm. It will flex some out of the way due to it having all rubber connections giving more clearance for those back torx bolts. If need be, again cut down a torx bit socket to a short piece if need be and put a closed end box wrench over it. My car is 20 years old and i had no problem getting the back bolts out. So dont know what the other guy is talkin about rust.
First order of business is i replaced those two rear torx bolts with the same length HEX HEAD bolts. Now, if need be, i can easily reach in with a box wrench from the side and and remove those two back bolts with ease.
Do you have a part number for the brackets and bushings only?
Rear brackets: 2113230640, 2113230540 Front brackets can only be purchased with bar from Mercedes. Bushings you will need to search online for aftermarket. We used a brand called Febest. No official endorsement simply what we used.
@@fatherandsonfix Thank you.
Part number for the hex bolt on the front by chance?
000912008204