2014-17 AFM DOD Full Delete Pt1 Direct injection LT
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 ก.ค. 2024
- Learn how to do a Full AFM delete kit on 2014-17 GM LT based V8 engine. Follow along as I figure out what is required to do the job myself without removing the oil pan.
Tq specs for this engine can be found here
www.crazedperformancerepair.c...
Camshaft non AFM part number
GM #12672469
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www.texas-speed.com/
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Automotive technician - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
I was looking at texas speed for my AFM delete, but theres so many options for the kit it has my head spinning!
Thanks for all you do... Looking forward to part 2.
Welcome back,
Can't wait for more vids.👍
1 each week for three more weeks. My back gave out for a couple days and I can't be unproductive so used the down time to edit videos. My pain is your gain hahaha.
Awesome video! Currently fixing my truck as well as it had the misfire codes, horrible knocking and rough idle. Initially thinking it’s a dod issue but evidently my rocker arm fell apart so that was an easy fix.
Heck yeah, that's a win!
Driver side injector rail side is called the dirty side of the PCV. Great videos I did a complete DOD from Texas racing.
Great stuff 👍 thanks for sharing. ✌ 🇺🇸 GOD bless the U.S.A. 🇺🇸
You're so informative! I dont think this is something ill tackle myself on my daily. But maybe will try one day on my project! If you were closer id take my 2014 to you! But unfortunately i know you're up north due to the insulation and accent 😅 wouldnt happen to know a colleague in south Texas would ya?
Is it recommended to change to a standard volume oil pressure pump on a 2016 Yukon with the 5.3L L83
Do you know what the part number is for the fuel plunger/lifter? Can’t seem to find a replacement online.
LT1 swap references on the 14-18 engines, you can use the stock cam, then use the non AFM lifter on all holes. Can you confirm?
Enjoyed the video. I, also, would have assumed this particular engine was equipped with VVT. My 2008 LC9 was not, so was comfortable installing the dampener rather than the tensioner during my delete project. Would probably have leaned toward installing a new tensioner on a VVT equipped engine, though.
Your new cam a high performance cam.does the delete kit specify performance.I am thinking back to my early years when there was talk of a 3/4 racing cam.
We're you able to get it all installed with the pan on ?
Excellent presentation! Great info
Question:
If the cam isn't damaged can you leave it and still replace the lifters with non-AFM lifters & disable AFM via a tuner?
Thank you for your videos!
No, At least for sure on the older models. It uses the same lifters as older version so I assume it's the same scenario and it will hang open the valves leaving you with 4 cylinders that misfires at idle. The AFM cam profile is different on the AFM cylinders.
Might have to make trips out to you for services! I’m located in northern Minnesota 😎
Contact me on my website www.crazedperformancerepair.com
I recently did a afm delete changed oil pump pick up tube o ring changed oil pump blocked off afm towers and have low oil pressure!? Oil pressure was good before afm delete please help also plugged relief valve in oil pan oil pressure at 8psi at idle when warm
I have a 2007 5.3L Tahoe and I have a ticking from Cylinder 1. The mechanic said it was a failing lifter most likely. It seems to only tick after running it on the highway. Its like the AFM gets used and the lifter turns off but never turns back on. Do you think ATF would fix this or should I tear down the driver side head and replace the lifter? I'm not an experienced car guy but have replaced many alternators and radiators in my life just never removed a head. I have the tools and a great place inside to work on it so I'm inclined to give it a go.
Send your ECM to LT1swap.com and have him shut off AFM in the tune. No more annoying 4cyl mode and your v8 stays a v8. No more stuck in AFM position. Then all you have to worry about is the lifter rotating in the plastic guide.
Another great video! I am working on a 2014 4.3 V6 that i think has a collapsed lifter . I have done the release trick with your push rod tool in the past. Do you have the release video put out yet for the 14 and up? Also do you sell the vlom block for it as well? Thanks again for your videos .
Not sure about the 4.3 I have yet to see one with AFM. I don't have the release trick for direct injection yet as all I have got so far are bent pushrod or damaged cam/lifter rollers. The trick is the same though it's just the VLOM plug is slightly different install. Same plug though and I include instructions with it.
Wondering How many miles on that cam?
I'm starting mine in the morning. I'm snatching the motor out. I'm not about to fuck around all day over fenders.
Almost the same labor time to pull engine as it is to do delete. Doing delete on an engine stand only takes a few hrs. More work to pull it really but I get it.
It is my personal truck. I didn't want to lay under the truck in the driveway pulling the oil pan. Can't get the oil pump off without pulling the pan.
I've done water pump and suspension stuff. Will this be way to difficult for me?
Lot harder than a water pump . And a whole lot harder than suspension stuff.
Is there a cheaper way to delete the dod on this year truck those the kit u sell for the 07-13 gm trucks work ?
To do a proper complete delete there isn't really a cheaper way. To do a partial delete which is basically just a tune is much cheaper though. That can be done through LT1swap.com at a much cheaper price. That won't address any damage that you have though. I'm not sure your exact circumstance but for more details feel free to message me on my website at crazedperformancerepair.com
Shades of the 80's with the GM cams made in Mexico...
How did you manage to torque the head bolt on the driver side closest to the firewall?
Unusual socket combination. It kind sucks. If you don't have digital tq wrench for angle torquing you can mark the bolt and head and use the hex points on the bolts to calculate the degree turned.
i bought a delete kit for an aluminum L76 6.0, the lifters are LS7 "style" i have a horrible lifter type writer tick, worse when hot. i was told those plastic bag lifters are chinese. my lifter plunger pre-load is 65 thou intake and 55 thou exhaust, 40-50 psi oil pressure. should i get legit OEM gm lifters($300 or so) and re do it?
I only use OEM lifters on my stuff now. Did a HEMI camshaft a few months ago and put engine tech lifters in from Rockauto. Engine sounded terrible post repair.
Oem or melling. I've been having good luck with melling for the most part. Pay attention to the rollers though. Lately I've had a couple with funky rollers.
Just about to finish up my first LT1/L53 delete. The difference in head torque from left to right is bafflingly. Final degrees is 20 degrees difference in the heads. And it takes 2 people to do this if it's on an engine stand because you're chasing it across the floor. Going to do some oil passage blocking inside VLOM to prevent oil from getting to the solenoids. Good video
GM needs to fix and refund millions of these DOD/AFM engines. Very poor engineering design. Costing millions to consumers.
Damn I’m just wondering what kinda oil that guy was using
I have lifters that keep sticking on cyl 1 and 7 on the intake side, I am now on my 3rd set, can anyone help me figure out why this is?? Any help is greatly appreciated.
The VLOM is leaking pressure into the lifter tower when it shouldn't. Disable the AFM in the tune and install my VLOM plug. Feel free to watch my VLOM mod video for LT based direct injection engines for testing and other information.
If you were to run an engine with a bad number 2 cam bearing, how much damage would that do? Thanks
Depends on how bad it is. It will reduce some flow to main and rods fed by that one. It will also reduce the ability for VVT if equipped to function correctly. Overall though it would have to be pretty bad to cause real concern. I'd say if hot idle oil pressure is above 20psi and AFM is disabled you should be fine for a while.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair I'm probably on the cusp then, hot oil pressure is 18psi with full mechanical delete on lc9 no afm. I'm hoping it will last! Just wanted an educated opinion thank you
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair oil pressure is 18 in drive and 20 in park, have about 1500 miles on afm delete....guess I'll just cross my fingers and run
@@Johndoe-cz4gf do you have VVT or no?
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair no I don't it's an 07 suburban
Even aftermarket cam and lifters have become junk, afm or not, just ask Tony. You should've taped off or covered up the intake ports.
I'm the only person working in my shop so taping off the intake port's does me no good really. I've probably done over a thousand cylinder head jobs now and never had an issue. If I do, then I guess I'll eat it in my own pocketbook and be at my own demise lol. How typically place a big towel or bag over top of it when I leave for a period of time if it's left open.
I am surprised at how many people still do not know that WD-40 is not a lubricant. It was never designed to be a lubricant. It can be used as one for very minor lubrication. It was designed to displace water, hence the water displacement sign right on the can, water displacement formula number 40. And it was designed to clear the ignition systems of water in rainy conditions during World War II. That's it people, quit using WD-40 as a lubricant. In the 1980s it became very popular with the newfangled stainless steel Pistols that people would actually spray WD-40 on it before they went into a match. It works so well as a solvent that some of these guns were locking up in mid-cycle, and it was so bad that some of the guns were actually locking up half loaded or fully loaded and they could not unload them and they had to hammer them apart. That was when they were first getting into stainless steel firearms and they didn't realize that whenever you have two pieces of stainless steel that have to operate against each other, you have to use different types of stainless steel otherwise they tend to Gall against each other and form back into one piece.
I'm surprised so many don't know that as well. Good thing I was just using it as a form of a penetrant. Pb blaster also technically isn't a lubricant. I tried both because I wasn't sure what would work best in the situation of Teflon seals and stainless injectors vs oxidized aluminum. WD-40 sometimes works well with corrosive situation because of how thin it is. So figured I had time to give both a try. Besides, what better opportunity to see/show what works better in this scenario. Admittedly I figured WD wasn't the best choice here but wanted to try it just because.
why do you have to remove the injectors when pulling the heads
I am guessing he removed them because he had the heads milled and a valve job done.
How many miles were on this engine?
The Lt based are fairly random for failure miles so far. This one was around 80k if I recall correctly. Last one I did was about 150k ish.
The older Ls based stuff is fairly regularly around 180-220k for lifter failures.
Just turned 70k on my 2015 is why I ask. Thanks a lot, keep truckin dude!
Is what about Texas speed
Texas speed is good, they just didn't have a camshaft in stock at time of the job.
Am doing a btr custom cam afm and vvt delete. new ls7 lifter upgrade rockers new stiffer valve springs new push rods. New melling oil pump double roller timing chain. And all I have to say is I hate you right now GM.
Hahahaha I can totally relate...
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair where can I go to buy your tool to free up a stuck lifter and do the vlom mod to block off under the oil pressure sensor
You can purchase the kit on my website www.crazedperformancerepair.com
23:28 where is this video i just want to unstuck mine
It's the same technique as the gen 4 engine I have videos on but it take more to do because of the Direct injection. Make sure you verify it is a stuck AFM lifter and not a different issue the Gen 5 stuff is prone to. Feel free to PM me at CrazedPerformanceRepair.com for more info.
It's a shame GM designed such a poor valvetrain setup in an engine block design that is rather stout and can reliably handle alot of HP.
you cant even lift the cars up all the way in that shop kinda waste money to put a lift in that small a garage with a over hang celling drop right at the door
It worked great for most the stuff I worked on at the time. Just not to great for SUV or trucks with a topper. Corvettes I could walk under though and I worked on a lot of them. Now I have a new much bigger shop with proper hoist.
loose…
lazy, works double