THANK YOU, Michael !!! 🙏☝😃✨❤👍🎯 🙏🙂👍 This lesson is BY FAR the very BEST and most thorough and CLEAR explanation of this subject that I have been able to find on TH-cam... GREAT job !!! Immensely helpful... Keep up the great work.
Thank you for being clear and explaining this subject. I have an automatic sprinkler system with 4 zones and my water source is ditch water and is supplied from my HOA. My annual HOA fees pay for the use of this ditch water. The HOA supplies ditch water to each property that is pressurized and each property has a brass shut-off valve to turn water off to the property. This brass shut-off valve is located in the front yard and in the corner of the property where the phone pedestal, cable pedestal, etc. are located. This brass shut-off valve is the point of where the responsibility of the HOA ends and the responsibility of the home owner begins. From this brass shut-off valve my water is carried into my property in a 1 1/4 inch PVC line and before my manifold I have a hose faucet followed by a brass gate valve and then the inline "Y" filter. On the discharge side of the filter this 1 1/4 inch PVC line is reduced to 1 inch and this goes into my manifold. All four valves are 1 inch and the water line coming out of each valve is 1 inch. Since there are numerous properties "sharing" this water at any given time the flow rate and pressure can fluctuate throughout the day. I have my timer set to start watering at 8 pm as this is the time when no one else near me is using water. My flow rate is 6 GPM and the pressure is 20 PSI. As a result, my sprinklers underperform and are anemic in their water distribution on the lawn. Each zone has between 6 and 8 sprinklers. I have determined that the piping in each zone is working properly and that there are no brakes in the piping. The 1 1/4 inch line may or may-not have a brake in the line. I have yet to determine what the status of this line is. My house is on a cul-de-sac and all my neighbors have thick lush green lawns. My lawn is not in the same league as my neighbors. Therefore, my problem seems to be with my system and not with the HOA water. The brass shut-off valve at the front of the property does open and close as I have tested this. This valve is open as far as it can open. Do you have any ideas on how to solve this issue?
Ok, I do have some thoughts. Interesting setup, but really just a "reclaimed water" setup. Your filter should be cleaned regularly, and I can't emphasize this enough. Scrubbed with a brush and so forth, a clogged filter is commonly the cause of reduced flow. I would put a pressure gauge on the hose bibb before the filter, then you can really see the best time to run the system. Just because those near you aren't watering, it doesn't mean that's actually peak pressure for you to use. Then, do a five gallon bucket test at that hose bibb or use a combo pressure / flow gauge (about $120). 5 gallon bucket test works great, i have a video or two about that. Now, go to your largest zone, and pull up each head and write down the nozzle number. Make sure you get all the heads on that zone and only the heads on that zone. Add them up, does your total, (the flow demand) exceed what your flow supply is as determined by your bucket test? You can find that nozzle flow info on the manufacturer website. If it does, then reduce each nozzle by one size and see how it looks. Repeat if necessary. Also, check the web for output details of your filter. Is it capable of flowing enough gallons per minute to supply all the heads on your largest zone? You can get different mesh size screens for a lot of filters.
I'd think that it would be fine. It's just a preference. One way saves a little more pipe, the other way saves a little more wire. But definitely check in CA, lol. Thanks for watching and the question!
I really couldn't say about different areas, because it sometimes varies by state or even local water systems. In my general area, all the backflows are underground. But go a little farther north and they're in basements & crawl spaces. Go to TX and other deep south states and they're all above ground in cages. Thanks for watching, sorry I can't really answer the question.
No, there shouldn't be any downstream valve from an ASV. You can use a regular solenoid valve as a Master, and still have backflow protection from the ASVs. Thank you so much for watching and your question.
Is there a formula of how much the pressure decreases for each sprinkler head? I assume just popping up decreases the available pressure. Does using a specific sprinkler head reduce water pressure more than other? (ie rotors, rotary nozzles, spray nozzles, impact sprinkler heads…). Does too many sprinkler heads reduce the pressure just mostly at the end or even the first sprinkler head? And what type of sprinkler head still works ok at very low PSI? (I bought a house with a full system set up over 1/2 acre. At the bottom of the hill I tried to test the PSI and I think it’s like 10. There are 14 Rain-bird rotating R Vans and even a drip line to this section. Oh, and does having all the sprinklers in a row off the same line effect pressure any differently than having the main line branch 2 separate directions with the heads off 2 different branches?
Yes, you can calculate how much pressure will be at each head. I don't currently have a video on how to "pipe size" which is an installation technique of choosing the proper pipe size to help even out the pressure at each head. If the sprinklers are all in series or one after the other down a single line, then there will be decreasing pressure and flow available at each successive head. I'm pretty sure all of the pressure loss is from friction loss, so i'm not really sure about the pressure used to push each individual head up. It probably only affects the output of that particular head as it's making it's final energy conversion from pressure to velocity to push the water through the air.
8:27 - you say "a female adapter and a threaded schedule 80 nipple". Could you please give me links to the items so I can better understand what you mean. I would greatly appreciate this!
Go to my website and enter your email address there and I'll send you some links and some pictures. I just had to cut out some male adapters and replace them with female adapters and nipples, so I've got some pictures as well. I'll probably make a new video about it.
Any valve will work as a Master Valve. I personally like Hunter's PGV, but that's just a personal choice. Rain Bird, Toro, Irritrol, & K-Rain all make great valves. Thanks for watching and commenting!
THANK YOU, Michael !!! 🙏☝😃✨❤👍🎯 🙏🙂👍 This lesson is BY FAR the very BEST and most thorough and CLEAR explanation of this subject that I have been able to find on TH-cam... GREAT job !!! Immensely helpful... Keep up the great work.
Thanks Scott! I appreciate you watching and commenting! Glad you got some value from the content.
Thank-you for being clear and explaining the principle behind what is trying to be achieved.
Thank you for being clear and explaining this subject. I have an automatic sprinkler system with 4 zones and my water source is ditch water and is supplied from my HOA. My annual HOA fees pay for the use of this ditch water. The HOA supplies ditch water to each property that is pressurized and each property has a brass shut-off valve to turn water off to the property. This brass shut-off valve is located in the front yard and in the corner of the property where the phone pedestal, cable pedestal, etc. are located. This brass shut-off valve is the point of where the responsibility of the HOA ends and the responsibility of the home owner begins. From this brass shut-off valve my water is carried into my property in a 1 1/4 inch PVC line and before my manifold I have a hose faucet followed by a brass gate valve and then the inline "Y" filter. On the discharge side of the filter this 1 1/4 inch PVC line is reduced to 1 inch and this goes into my manifold. All four valves are 1 inch and the water line coming out of each valve is 1 inch. Since there are numerous properties "sharing" this water at any given time the flow rate and pressure can fluctuate throughout the day. I have my timer set to start watering at 8 pm as this is the time when no one else near me is using water. My flow rate is 6 GPM and the pressure is 20 PSI. As a result, my sprinklers underperform and are anemic in their water distribution on the lawn. Each zone has between 6 and 8 sprinklers. I have determined that the piping in each zone is working properly and that there are no brakes in the piping. The 1 1/4 inch line may or may-not have a brake in the line. I have yet to determine what the status of this line is. My house is on a cul-de-sac and all my neighbors have thick lush green lawns. My lawn is not in the same league as my neighbors. Therefore, my problem seems to be with my system and not with the HOA water. The brass shut-off valve at the front of the property does open and close as I have tested this. This valve is open as far as it can open. Do you have any ideas on how to solve this issue?
Ok, I do have some thoughts. Interesting setup, but really just a "reclaimed water" setup. Your filter should be cleaned regularly, and I can't emphasize this enough. Scrubbed with a brush and so forth, a clogged filter is commonly the cause of reduced flow. I would put a pressure gauge on the hose bibb before the filter, then you can really see the best time to run the system. Just because those near you aren't watering, it doesn't mean that's actually peak pressure for you to use. Then, do a five gallon bucket test at that hose bibb or use a combo pressure / flow gauge (about $120). 5 gallon bucket test works great, i have a video or two about that. Now, go to your largest zone, and pull up each head and write down the nozzle number. Make sure you get all the heads on that zone and only the heads on that zone. Add them up, does your total, (the flow demand) exceed what your flow supply is as determined by your bucket test? You can find that nozzle flow info on the manufacturer website. If it does, then reduce each nozzle by one size and see how it looks. Repeat if necessary. Also, check the web for output details of your filter. Is it capable of flowing enough gallons per minute to supply all the heads on your largest zone? You can get different mesh size screens for a lot of filters.
Very good presentation. Well done, sir! Thank you for sharing your expertise.
Thank you so much for watching and commenting!
Great explanation of system knowledge
Thanks Paul!
Thanks for this information, I do have one question though, is the "Main + Satellite Valve" method code compliance at the State of California?
I'd think that it would be fine. It's just a preference. One way saves a little more pipe, the other way saves a little more wire. But definitely check in CA, lol. Thanks for watching and the question!
Thank you for the very useful information.
Thank you for watching and commenting!
Very interesting information thank you
You're welcome, thanks for watching!
In some areas are commerical backflow preventers underground for commerical properties? If so do you know which specific areas?
I really couldn't say about different areas, because it sometimes varies by state or even local water systems. In my general area, all the backflows are underground. But go a little farther north and they're in basements & crawl spaces. Go to TX and other deep south states and they're all above ground in cages. Thanks for watching, sorry I can't really answer the question.
Can you have a master anti siphon valve? Or have a master pgv hunter valve with anti siphon?
I'm curious about that too!
No, there shouldn't be any downstream valve from an ASV. You can use a regular solenoid valve as a Master, and still have backflow protection from the ASVs. Thank you so much for watching and your question.
Is there a formula of how much the pressure decreases for each sprinkler head? I assume just popping up decreases the available pressure. Does using a specific sprinkler head reduce water pressure more than other? (ie rotors, rotary nozzles, spray nozzles, impact sprinkler heads…).
Does too many sprinkler heads reduce the pressure just mostly at the end or even the first sprinkler head?
And what type of sprinkler head still works ok at very low PSI? (I bought a house with a full system set up over 1/2 acre. At the bottom of the hill I tried to test the PSI and I think it’s like 10. There are 14 Rain-bird rotating R Vans and even a drip line to this section.
Oh, and does having all the sprinklers in a row off the same line effect pressure any differently than having the main line branch 2 separate directions with the heads off 2 different branches?
Yes, you can calculate how much pressure will be at each head. I don't currently have a video on how to "pipe size" which is an installation technique of choosing the proper pipe size to help even out the pressure at each head. If the sprinklers are all in series or one after the other down a single line, then there will be decreasing pressure and flow available at each successive head. I'm pretty sure all of the pressure loss is from friction loss, so i'm not really sure about the pressure used to push each individual head up. It probably only affects the output of that particular head as it's making it's final energy conversion from pressure to velocity to push the water through the air.
Jar top valves have the solenoid dead center.
You're absolutely right about that. Thank you for the comment!!
8:27 - you say "a female adapter and a threaded schedule 80 nipple". Could you please give me links to the items so I can better understand what you mean. I would greatly appreciate this!
Go to my website and enter your email address there and I'll send you some links and some pictures. I just had to cut out some male adapters and replace them with female adapters and nipples, so I've got some pictures as well. I'll probably make a new video about it.
@@Proirrigationtraining Thank you, I've sent you a letter via your website.
What is the advantage of having female adapters and nipples?
could you recommend a good master valve without breaking the bank?
Any valve will work as a Master Valve. I personally like Hunter's PGV, but that's just a personal choice. Rain Bird, Toro, Irritrol, & K-Rain all make great valves. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Not one valve solution setup/location for all properties. Maybe 70% valve will/should be located in same place. Misleading subtitle 😊
You're right, there's not one best setup, that's why I covered both satellite and manifold configurations in the video.
May I talk to you, sir?
I need the same info that Jake needed. I sent U my email address. THANKS!!