There is still a couple ways that might improve the system. By leaching some power with small solar panels. And by using joule thief's. And by using RGB LEDs with common cathode and taking the power from unused legs back to the system. Thanks for taking the time on this!
@@paradigme_ Search RGB LED 5mm. They are regular Red Green & Blue LEDs with 4 legs. 100pcs of them are very cheap. There is clear and defused ones. Common anode or cathode means that they use one leg as positive or negative. All LEDs will act as solar panels too if you put them under light. So it's possible to get some energy back from the two unused legs, if you use the ones with common cathode. For example blue light can give almost 1, 5 volt back to the circuit from the green and red legs.
@@paradigme_ Just don't expect too much, the ampere from the additional LED legs is very small amount. But I think every little thing will add up eventually. One other trick is to use 3 LEDs in parallel. So it's possible to get much more light from it, but it will consume just a tiny bit more energy than one. If joule thief's are used, then power transistors with metal housing can be opened and they will also work like solar panels. I wrote a small study on joule thief to Overunity forum. There is many things about old ways that have been used to improve am radios back in the days. I have been dreaming about perpetual light for quite awhile :D The SJR Looper by Lasersaber is also worth studying.
Thank you for your comment. That is a very interesting idea, I think I have some 12v RGB LED’s I could attempt to use. The joule thieves I have tried weren’t designed for this system and chewed excess power. I have been considering building a new one that is specific to this system as I have read a pulse circuit is ideal as it allows a back rush of energy with every magnetic field collapse of the coil.
These are great videos explaining a practical use of Tesla switch, without actually requiring much switching. I believe the differences in the current draw between the use of diode Vs LEDs on the -ve rail, could be partly attributed to the junction capacitance. The In400x series diodes have a junction cap of 15pf, whereas an LED typically has 50pf.
Thank you for your comment. I started calling it the Tesla transfer method because manually switching the batteries isn't really getting any of the benefits the Tesla Switch has. I wanted to cover the most basic use of the concept because there are a lot of people that are put off by complex coils and switching circuits. Soon I will head down that rabbit hole, auto switching, but life's full on at the moment and this old dog needs to learn some new tricks first. Thank you for the capacitance information for the LED's, that's at least one thing that helps towards understanding the amazing efficiency.
Thank you for another experiment. We can hear the excitement when you're explaining the results you observed ! I will try this one this week. I wonder what would happen if another component was paired with the green LED. Whether the green LED could still act as some sort of balancer
Thank you for watching. I have tested other combinations of LED’s and the green one is the only one that has this odd effect, that doesn’t mean it only works with the green but it is the only one that works out of those I have tested. What I find interesting is I can place 10 green LED’s in parallel with the green LED in circuit and they all work and the milliamperes only rise to 8.8mA
Great experiment, tank you for sharing ❤ I think Nigel Cheese said in his quantum battery setup that a green led is easier to lit up and now we can observe this.
Thank you for watching. I do remember hearing someone say that the green LED produced a different effect but I don’t think that explains the whole picture here. In this scenario, we have two 20mA LED’s, currently it is 3.5 days since it started and sitting at 6.54 volts on the series set and 1.295 on the parallel side with a current draw of 4.7mA. So again, two 20mA LED’s in the same circuit consuming 4.7mA. There has to be something related to the material used to make green in an LED, the manufacturers place different compounds in tiny quantities inside the LED to achieve its colour, I don’t remember what green is made from but I will put my money on it that this is the cause of the effect we see with the green LED.
@@thebigfella9095 Either he was genuine and they took him out to conceal the concept and the secrecy that he created around his discovery meant it disappeared with him. OR He was a fake and unable to go anywhere with his device and the secrecy he created around his supposed discovery deterred investors, again helping nobody. There is a moral to his story whichever way it went, secrets kept for money is greed and greed will get you nowhere!
Thank you for your comment. Yes this can be done with car batteries, no problem at all. I will have a look at the old car batteries I have here to see if that test can be performed by me. The car batteries I do have here are old and removed from vehicles because they were failing, this may mean I will need to repair the batteries first. In the meantime you can watch my video on the 12 volt version which is closest to what you wish to achieve.
Thanks again for your videos. In fact LED, as we thought in your previous experiments (old ones) are not acting like conventional loads. The effect that your are working one with your configuration must be studied with different kind of loads. Moreover I don't remember what were your results with your supercapacitors? Was it the same as the batteries? Many thanks again.
Thank you for your comment. I'm slowly starting to get a picture of what might be happening here, I believe the efficiency is aided by the materials used to dope the green LED. I stopped testing the capacitor version because I needed to create a better swap around switching mechanism as those capacitors can dump a lot of power very quickly. I want to get back to the capacitor tests as soon as I get some good switches
White LED use a blue LED with a higher voltage drop. Red LED have a lowest LED voltage drop. The norm max current is 20mA for best lifespan. I'm working with super caps on this same circiut but have not finished the CPU fet switching software circuit to start meaningful research
Thank you for your comment. Please keep me up to date with your switching setup, eventually I will get to the switching aspect but for now I'm trying to find out the circuits maximum efficiencies before I move to that next step. There are plenty of viewers that would like more information regarding the capacitor version of this circuit also, so please keep us updated on those experiments.
Do the lights run cooler than usual could you use the temperature gun to see the difference it makes sense it seems like the light can be still made light output an LED is still very small compared to the power that uses they are still very efficient but still the majority of their Energy is turned into heat
Thank you for your comment. I have noticed changes in temperature of the LED’s but not applied any measuring protocol just casual observations. I can place a thermometer on the led for you and see what it reads.
Thank you for watching. I had to replace that LED because it wasn’t so lucky and joined its dead buddies, it’s a good thing I bought 1000. 🤣 After they burn bright like that they no longer pass the correct current through them anymore and without both diodes in circuit the voltage is way too high and more like double the LED’s rated voltage. Test is still running now at 3.5 days, Series Voltage = 6.54, Parallel voltage = 1.295, Current = 4.7mA.
@@whatifididthis...1236 That 3v3 booster could run off a 3S1P-1S3P cell config, to get the equivalent voltage of a 2S (2.4v). I guess the 1S3P on the negetive side prevents the 3S1P battery from being drained flat.
@@jimmybrad156 This is definitely a head scratcher. I initially believed there was no current moving through the NEG rails but this and previous tests monitoring current draw left me going....WTF?
Sorry to break the news to you but you didn't discover anything new. There is no Tesla anything, no gain in efficiency. Get a good electrodynamics textbook where you'll find basics like how batteries work, internal resistance, etc.
Hello could you please develop. Do You say that that kind of experiment is already described and is well known ? If you have a good reference I would deeply appreciate if you could share it with all of us. Thank you in advance for your help.
Thank you for your comment. I have been very clear that this is an old discovery, possibly older than 100 years. I am unsure what you mean by there is no "Tesla anything". I would debate the relevance of obtaining a good textbook in any field, this information is not taught to us every day citizens, that they can do things a better way and save themselves some money and no textbook known to man is going to explain how to achieve this and that's assuming they know this. If the teachings are wrong then reciting the teachings accurately makes you nothing other than exceptionally wrong. I am also unsure how you evaluate the setup as having no increase in efficiency when the conventional method would deplete the stored power in under 12 hours, yet this system is still running now 96 hours later, non stop, running two 20 mA LED's both of which are still fully lit. Current readings are as follows. Series battery bank = 6.41 Volts Parallel battery bank = 1.297 Volts Current = 3.6mA Please point me to the textbook that describes this as a possibility and or demonstrates how.
@@whatifididthis...1236 You are under driving the LEDs in series at only ~0.7 v above minimum voltage for lighting the LEDs, therefore the current is low at 4 mA. Kirchhoff's laws ensure that there is no difference if both LEDs are in series one after another or one is after each battery set.
There is still a couple ways that might improve the system. By leaching some power with small solar panels. And by using joule thief's. And by using RGB LEDs with common cathode and taking the power from unused legs back to the system. Thanks for taking the time on this!
Hello and thanks you for your comment. I dont' know the rgb led system. Do you have more information about this ? It act as a kind of diode bridge ?
@@paradigme_ Search RGB LED 5mm. They are regular Red Green & Blue LEDs with 4 legs. 100pcs of them are very cheap. There is clear and defused ones. Common anode or cathode means that they use one leg as positive or negative. All LEDs will act as solar panels too if you put them under light. So it's possible to get some energy back from the two unused legs, if you use the ones with common cathode. For example blue light can give almost 1, 5 volt back to the circuit from the green and red legs.
@@Kangsteri I will try this, thanks you very much!
@@paradigme_ Just don't expect too much, the ampere from the additional LED legs is very small amount. But I think every little thing will add up eventually. One other trick is to use 3 LEDs in parallel. So it's possible to get much more light from it, but it will consume just a tiny bit more energy than one. If joule thief's are used, then power transistors with metal housing can be opened and they will also work like solar panels. I wrote a small study on joule thief to Overunity forum. There is many things about old ways that have been used to improve am radios back in the days. I have been dreaming about perpetual light for quite awhile :D The SJR Looper by Lasersaber is also worth studying.
Thank you for your comment.
That is a very interesting idea, I think I have some 12v RGB LED’s I could attempt to use. The joule thieves I have tried weren’t designed for this system and chewed excess power. I have been considering building a new one that is specific to this system as I have read a pulse circuit is ideal as it allows a back rush of energy with every magnetic field collapse of the coil.
These are great videos explaining a practical use of Tesla switch, without actually requiring much switching. I believe the differences in the current draw between the use of diode Vs LEDs on the -ve rail, could be partly attributed to the junction capacitance. The In400x series diodes have a junction cap of 15pf, whereas an LED typically has 50pf.
Thank you for your comment.
I started calling it the Tesla transfer method because manually switching the batteries isn't really getting any of the benefits the Tesla Switch has. I wanted to cover the most basic use of the concept because there are a lot of people that are put off by complex coils and switching circuits.
Soon I will head down that rabbit hole, auto switching, but life's full on at the moment and this old dog needs to learn some new tricks first.
Thank you for the capacitance information for the LED's, that's at least one thing that helps towards understanding the amazing efficiency.
Thank you for another experiment.
We can hear the excitement when you're explaining the results you observed !
I will try this one this week. I wonder what would happen if
another component was paired with the green LED.
Whether the green LED could still act as some sort of balancer
Thank you for watching.
I have tested other combinations of LED’s and the green one is the only one that has this odd effect, that doesn’t mean it only works with the green but it is the only one that works out of those I have tested.
What I find interesting is I can place 10 green LED’s in parallel with the green LED in circuit and they all work and the milliamperes only rise to 8.8mA
Great experiment, tank you for sharing ❤
I think Nigel Cheese said in his quantum battery setup that a green led is easier to lit up and now we can observe this.
what ever happened to that guy?...
Thank you for watching.
I do remember hearing someone say that the green LED produced a different effect but I don’t think that explains the whole picture here. In this scenario, we have two 20mA LED’s, currently it is 3.5 days since it started and sitting at 6.54 volts on the series set and 1.295 on the parallel side with a current draw of 4.7mA. So again, two 20mA LED’s in the same circuit consuming 4.7mA. There has to be something related to the material used to make green in an LED, the manufacturers place different compounds in tiny quantities inside the LED to achieve its colour, I don’t remember what green is made from but I will put my money on it that this is the cause of the effect we see with the green LED.
@@thebigfella9095 Either he was genuine and they took him out to conceal the concept and the secrecy that he created around his discovery meant it disappeared with him.
OR
He was a fake and unable to go anywhere with his device and the secrecy he created around his supposed discovery deterred investors, again helping nobody.
There is a moral to his story whichever way it went, secrets kept for money is greed and greed will get you nowhere!
agree..cheers@@whatifididthis...1236
nice..ill try it cheers
Thank you for watching, please let me know how your experiments go.
will do ..cheers
@@whatifididthis...1236
❤❤❤😊😊 Hi, can you do this with bigger batteries like car or solar battery 🔋??? Please if possible to do a video on that... Thanks 🙏👍
This system is universal. As you have enough potential difference between 2 point, the current will flow.
Thank you for your comment.
Yes this can be done with car batteries, no problem at all. I will have a look at the old car batteries I have here to see if that test can be performed by me. The car batteries I do have here are old and removed from vehicles because they were failing, this may mean I will need to repair the batteries first. In the meantime you can watch my video on the 12 volt version which is closest to what you wish to achieve.
@@paradigme_ Thank you for your comment.
Thanks again for your videos. In fact LED, as we thought in your previous experiments (old ones) are not acting like conventional loads. The effect that your are working one with your configuration must be studied with different kind of loads. Moreover I don't remember what were your results with your supercapacitors? Was it the same as the batteries? Many thanks again.
Thank you for your comment.
I'm slowly starting to get a picture of what might be happening here, I believe the efficiency is aided by the materials used to dope the green LED.
I stopped testing the capacitor version because I needed to create a better swap around switching mechanism as those capacitors can dump a lot of power very quickly. I want to get back to the capacitor tests as soon as I get some good switches
green LED voltage drop is a sweet spot...
Thank you for your comment.
I believe so, I think it is the materials used to dope the LED that is creating the increase in efficiency.
White LED use a blue LED with a higher voltage drop. Red LED have a lowest LED voltage drop. The norm max current is 20mA for best lifespan. I'm working with super caps on this same circiut but have not finished the CPU fet switching software circuit to start meaningful research
Thank you for your comment.
Please keep me up to date with your switching setup, eventually I will get to the switching aspect but for now I'm trying to find out the circuits maximum efficiencies before I move to that next step. There are plenty of viewers that would like more information regarding the capacitor version of this circuit also, so please keep us updated on those experiments.
Do the lights run cooler than usual could you use the temperature gun to see the difference it makes sense it seems like the light can be still made light output an LED is still very small compared to the power that uses they are still very efficient but still the majority of their Energy is turned into heat
Thank you for your comment.
I have noticed changes in temperature of the LED’s but not applied any measuring protocol just casual observations. I can place a thermometer on the led for you and see what it reads.
the schem at the end is masked with 2 inserts.....
Thank you for your comment.
That would be an editing mistake on my part, I will remove them now. Thanks for the heads up.
lucky that led didn't fry out with ~5v dc across it.
Thank you for watching.
I had to replace that LED because it wasn’t so lucky and joined its dead buddies, it’s a good thing I bought 1000. 🤣 After they burn bright like that they no longer pass the correct current through them anymore and without both diodes in circuit the voltage is way too high and more like double the LED’s rated voltage.
Test is still running now at 3.5 days, Series Voltage = 6.54, Parallel voltage = 1.295, Current = 4.7mA.
@@whatifididthis...1236 That 3v3 booster could run off a 3S1P-1S3P cell config, to get the equivalent voltage of a 2S (2.4v). I guess the 1S3P on the negetive side prevents the 3S1P battery from being drained flat.
@@jimmybrad156 This is definitely a head scratcher. I initially believed there was no current moving through the NEG rails but this and previous tests monitoring current draw left me going....WTF?
is the ebay item number
Sorry to break the news to you but you didn't discover anything new. There is no Tesla anything, no gain in efficiency. Get a good electrodynamics textbook where you'll find basics like how batteries work, internal resistance, etc.
Hello could you please develop. Do You say that that kind of experiment is already described and is well known ? If you have a good reference I would deeply appreciate if you could share it with all of us. Thank you in advance for your help.
Thank you for your comment.
I have been very clear that this is an old discovery, possibly older than 100 years. I am unsure what you mean by there is no "Tesla anything".
I would debate the relevance of obtaining a good textbook in any field, this information is not taught to us every day citizens, that they can do things a better way and save themselves some money and no textbook known to man is going to explain how to achieve this and that's assuming they know this.
If the teachings are wrong then reciting the teachings accurately makes you nothing other than exceptionally wrong.
I am also unsure how you evaluate the setup as having no increase in efficiency when the conventional method would deplete the stored power in under 12 hours, yet this system is still running now 96 hours later, non stop, running two 20 mA LED's both of which are still fully lit.
Current readings are as follows.
Series battery bank = 6.41 Volts
Parallel battery bank = 1.297 Volts
Current = 3.6mA
Please point me to the textbook that describes this as a possibility and or demonstrates how.
@@whatifididthis...1236 You are under driving the LEDs in series at only ~0.7 v above minimum voltage for lighting the LEDs, therefore the current is low at 4 mA. Kirchhoff's laws ensure that there is no difference if both LEDs are in series one after another or one is after each battery set.
With only one LED, it works at more than 3v above its minimum forward voltage drawing around 30ma
Therefore it would be expected that with one LED the cells would last 10x less