For people that work on severely compromised PCBs with acid damage / corrosion, etc. the twist method can be more dangerous, but for PCBs in good condition it is safer, when done carefully as shown in this video. When using hot air on electrolytic capacitors, it is perhaps a good idea to wear safety glasses too. I really appreciate this channel's recommendation of the 2 irons method, which I have adopted a lot in my own work on various components. As usual, great stuff. Love the videos.
I use the twist method for EVERY removal as I don't reinstall any SMD ele-caps. If your board is so compromised you're not comfortable twisting off a cap, that board needs a rework anyway and a bit of rough handling will bring your weak points to light.
@@texNoz For old and fragile PCBs the entire thing is a weak point. These things require a more gentle approach. I am not talking about re-using caps, but spending countless hours repairing pads and tracks I've ripped off for no good reason. I use the twist method too, but I always consider the situation carefullly first.
Hi , thank you again for your continued support of my channel , its nice when I see returning viewers . I just want to help people , if I can then that's great . Thanks again , take care 👍
Another excellent video! I saw another TH-camr puncture the center top of the capacitor with a sharp point to let the brown electrolyte ooze out then using hot air to eliminate the pressure build up. Works very well but I'd definitely use my fume extractor if I try this.
Interesting, but you definitely need to clean the board after the capacitors are removed. If you planned to run it through an ultrasonic cleaner anyway then there’s little concern, and you likely already have some leaked caps if you are replacing them anyway. :)
Im very impressed with that twist method, I didn't think that would work without wreaking the pads but it looks very doable. Im going to have a play on some old boards thanks
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated . On big Electrolytic Capacitors the twist in my opinion is the best option . If you can hold down the small amount of pin sticking out the sides with tweezers or pliers this makes it even safer . I have never damaged one board using this method . Good luck and thanks again 👍
You just read my mind i was looking for inspiration about doing this as i have 75 to do on one piece of equipment. Very crowded boards . Thanks for the time and work. I have done the twist method and found if you keep slight downward pressure it helps to stop tearing the pads from the board. I have also unsoldered one leg and tilted the components up and cut the other leg if you can but you if can't heat underneath the components and lift off it's really only if you cant get to one pad.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support of my channel is very much appreciated . It's always good to hear other people's ways of dealing with situations , hopefully we can all help each other . Thanks again , take care 👍
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , really appreciate it . Hopefully these methods can help a few people out with their cap removals . Thanks again , take care 👍
Nicely done, on the larger caps I’ve cut the tops with a dremel, pulled out the innards and cut the pins from the inside. This however takes ages so your twist method looks promising.
This is another great video with so many helpful tips, thank you! It may not be your exact cup of tea but i'd love to see how you remove and install smd micro sd and smd sd card eexpansion ports, they are an item that no one else at my workplace will even attempt to remove or install and I get the "pleasure" of doing them for the other technicians. I use a rs pro soldering station and even with the hot air set as low as i can go (lead free solder is enforced in my workplace) at about 420c while moving about the hot air and never letting it stagnate I still manage to soften the plastic or completely seperate one of the pins from the connector itself both ruin the port.
I have replaced a few micro SD card connectors by simply soldering each leg, applying (some kind of) low-temperature-solder. Gently heat the board and every pin will melt - lift the broken part, clean all low-melt alloy away, solder each pin or use hot-air 'as-usual'
I've pulled pads off of a Nintendo 64 and a receiver hdmi board using the twist method. It all depends on the integrity of the board and the pads. If all else fails I now use flush cutters to cut the caps.
Hi , thank you for your comment . Personally I have worked on some very poor quality boards and I've found if you are careful with the twist method it is very safe . As myself and others have commented we've never taken one pad off doing this method . I personally don't like the cutter method ( hence why I didn't show it ) but as I've always said if you have a method that works for you and you are happy stick with it . Thanks again 👍
Hi Mr Solderfix! I think I have bitten off more than I can chew! I have owned a Korg 01/W FD since 1995 and given that it is over 30 years old, I decided to fully service and replace the electrolytic capacitors. I watched a lot YT videos to see how it is done and then have a go. I have botched it up and need help to diagnose and fix the issues I have created! I am based in London. Thanks
hi done alot the 2 irons do work well on the bigger one i hold down the cap and use side cutters and do what you do take away the left over's turning the caps a round i don't like to do as the models of them caps are not all the same
@@dougp6664 hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . Really simple answer to your question is to use 2 soldering irons or soldering tweezers . I much prefer 2 irons as in this case I would fit 2 larger soldering iron tips , hold one on each joint , wait a few seconds , removes easily . I've posted a few removal videos on my channel and in them somewhere is really large components like L5 or bigger and you can see how this method works perfectly . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
I have a lot of hoarded Amiga computers to recap, most have leaked fluid, slightly corroded the PCB, gray solder joints, the caps are tightly packed with other components, heat is a no no, 2 soldering irons, you can not get in there, the twist is the way to go, some snip the cap case first, I will try a board soon, maybe I do a video, thanks for the video. What is best way to solder new caps back in such a scenario of tight space.
I'm glad it's not just me struggling! I'm all new to this PCB repair, just managed to fix 4 tool chargers lately, as that's the only broken stuff I've been able to get hold of so far. Anyway, pulled the circuit boards from an old TV the boss was throwing out, so trying to salvage parts from the board. I was really struggling to de solder these damn capacitors with a single iron (all I have currently, just ordered a hot air station to add to the collection). I quickly decided they were too much hassle to salvage for their value. I actually ended up using the pliers method only I didn't twist I rocked back and forward, probably 6-8 out of 10 would rip the capacitor out the base and into the bin, but a few come off in tact. Found that the quickest method especially if its just a capacitor in the way of something else and I just want it gone. I'll order a second iron in the near future and see how the two irons go! Cheers
Hi , thank you for returning to my videos and always leaving positive comments , it's really appreciated . Hopefully my channel can continue to help a few people out with their soldering / desoldering issues . Thanks again , take care 👍
Take a piece of copper wrap it around several times around the tip of your soldering iron so it looks something like a fork then spread the size just right to slide on both sides of the capacitor try on soldering it and using that method and when you're done just slight the copper coil off tip of your soldering iron and put it somewhere so you can forget it and have to make another one when you need it again
Do you have any methods or tricks to clean very dirty PCBs from accumulated dust, dirt, rust, oil etc without harming the connectors or caps? Maybe it could be a popular video.
@@fredwooding599 hi , thank you for your comment . I personally prefer 2 soldering irons over hot tweezers as sometimes because of nearby components you may need to come in from different angles on each joint and soldering tweezers don't allow this . They are good at times but for me 2 irons wins the day . Thanks again 👍
Don't forget about using low-temp solder like ChipQuik. I haven't tried it on large caps (or something like the heatsink tab on a TO-220), but I don't know why it wouldn't work. And it certainly works for devices with (many) more than two leads. Note that there are other sources for this type of solder other than ChipQuik, but I do happen to like their gel flux quite a bit, some of which comes with most of their de-soldering kits/packs.
Hi , thank you for your comment . I know all about ChipQuik , never had the need to use it . I just use leaded solder if I'm struggling. I know a lot of hobbyists would be put off of ChipQuik due to the price , as very expensive per metre . Never struggled with any rework enough to buy any really . Low melt solders are not my favourite solders in general I must admit . Thanks again 👍
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated . I'm glad you agree on the twist method , that's great to hear as some people are still a bit dubious about this . Certainly not me as I fully agree with you Thanks again , take care 👍
The real problem is that a lot of these simply don’t work with leaked caps. The corroded solder refuses to melt without board-damaging levels of heat, gobs of flux, and liberally added fresh solder. By the time you’ve done that to every cap on the board you may as well have just cut them off and cleaned up the mess.
@@andrewverran6998 hi , thank you for your comment . Trust me anyone decent in the industry with experience of using hot air goes with Aluminium foil . Kapton has nowhere near the heat resistance of foil tape . Seen so many people over the years get caught out using branded Kapton . Please try it .
@andrewverran6998 hi , 3M are a brand but very expensive . Try a brand called 'Advance' . Just get a sticky backed Aluminium foil . A lot cheaper than the 3M brand ones and will do a great job . Thanks for your comments 👍
what annoys me is the way those caps are designed, pads hidden underneath ! And on some of them, those that are very close to other components, turning the cap at PCB design stage by 90deg would have made it easy to access the pads. This is one of the reasons why I chose , many years ago , not to go into electronics pro repair business, I only repair stuff now when I really have to
Hi , I totally agree about everything you say . Sometimes pcb's have so much room on them and they fit the smallest parts available . I know in some instances certain parts have to be used to get the correct measurements , signals etc but not all the time . Thanks for raising this point , take care👍
For people that work on severely compromised PCBs with acid damage / corrosion, etc. the twist method can be more dangerous, but for PCBs in good condition it is safer, when done carefully as shown in this video. When using hot air on electrolytic capacitors, it is perhaps a good idea to wear safety glasses too. I really appreciate this channel's recommendation of the 2 irons method, which I have adopted a lot in my own work on various components. As usual, great stuff. Love the videos.
I use the twist method for EVERY removal as I don't reinstall any SMD ele-caps. If your board is so compromised you're not comfortable twisting off a cap, that board needs a rework anyway and a bit of rough handling will bring your weak points to light.
@@texNoz I agreed, if the pad already damaged then it need rework anyway, So I still use the twist methods
@@texNoz For old and fragile PCBs the entire thing is a weak point. These things require a more gentle approach. I am not talking about re-using caps, but spending countless hours repairing pads and tracks I've ripped off for no good reason. I use the twist method too, but I always consider the situation carefullly first.
AHnother great video, full of fantasyic tips and tricks. I've learnt so muc, since I started watching you. Thanks for sharing.
Hi , thank you again for your continued support of my channel , its nice when I see returning viewers . I just want to help people , if I can then that's great . Thanks again , take care 👍
Another excellent video! I saw another TH-camr puncture the center top of the capacitor with a sharp point to let the brown electrolyte ooze out then using hot air to eliminate the pressure build up. Works very well but I'd definitely use my fume extractor if I try this.
Interesting, but you definitely need to clean the board after the capacitors are removed. If you planned to run it through an ultrasonic cleaner anyway then there’s little concern, and you likely already have some leaked caps if you are replacing them anyway. :)
Im very impressed with that twist method, I didn't think that would work without wreaking the pads but it looks very doable. Im going to have a play on some old boards thanks
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated . On big Electrolytic Capacitors the twist in my opinion is the best option . If you can hold down the small amount of pin sticking out the sides with tweezers or pliers this makes it even safer . I have never damaged one board using this method . Good luck and thanks again 👍
Another interesting and informative video, thank you.
Hi , thank you for your support of my channel , very kind of you 👍
Thanks! I am learning a lot!
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍
You just read my mind i was looking for inspiration about doing this as i have 75 to do on one piece of equipment. Very crowded boards . Thanks for the time and work. I have done the twist method and found if you keep slight downward pressure it helps to stop tearing the pads from the board. I have also unsoldered one leg and tilted the components up and cut the other leg if you can but you if can't heat underneath the components and lift off it's really only if you cant get to one pad.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support of my channel is very much appreciated . It's always good to hear other people's ways of dealing with situations , hopefully we can all help each other . Thanks again , take care 👍
Thanks for this video. I will use your method in the future.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , really appreciate it . Hopefully these methods can help a few people out with their cap removals . Thanks again , take care 👍
Nicely done, on the larger caps I’ve cut the tops with a dremel, pulled out the innards and cut the pins from the inside. This however takes ages so your twist method looks promising.
This is another great video with so many helpful tips, thank you!
It may not be your exact cup of tea but i'd love to see how you remove and install smd micro sd and smd sd card eexpansion ports, they are an item that no one else at my workplace will even attempt to remove or install and I get the "pleasure" of doing them for the other technicians.
I use a rs pro soldering station and even with the hot air set as low as i can go (lead free solder is enforced in my workplace) at about 420c while moving about the hot air and never letting it stagnate I still manage to soften the plastic or completely seperate one of the pins from the connector itself both ruin the port.
I have replaced a few micro SD card connectors by simply soldering each leg, applying (some kind of) low-temperature-solder.
Gently heat the board and every pin will melt - lift the broken part, clean all low-melt alloy away, solder each pin or use hot-air 'as-usual'
I've pulled pads off of a Nintendo 64 and a receiver hdmi board using the twist method. It all depends on the integrity of the board and the pads. If all else fails I now use flush cutters to cut the caps.
Hi , thank you for your comment . Personally I have worked on some very poor quality boards and I've found if you are careful with the twist method it is very safe . As myself and others have commented we've never taken one pad off doing this method . I personally don't like the cutter method ( hence why I didn't show it ) but as I've always said if you have a method that works for you and you are happy stick with it . Thanks again 👍
Do you pull the wick or push it with the iron?
Hi , thank you for your comment . I would always gently pull the wick , much less likely to cause damage this way . Thanks again 👍
Hi Mr Solderfix! I think I have bitten off more than I can chew! I have owned a Korg 01/W FD since 1995 and given that it is over 30 years old, I decided to fully service and replace the electrolytic capacitors. I watched a lot YT videos to see how it is done and then have a go. I have botched it up and need help to diagnose and fix the issues I have created! I am based in London. Thanks
hi done alot the 2 irons do work well on the bigger one i hold down the cap and use side cutters and do what you do take away the left over's
turning the caps a round i don't like to do
as the models of them caps are not all the same
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍
Fantastic, thankyou
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍
Any tips on removing something like L5 - just to the right of C36 in the video.
@@dougp6664 hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . Really simple answer to your question is to use 2 soldering irons or soldering tweezers . I much prefer 2 irons as in this case I would fit 2 larger soldering iron tips , hold one on each joint , wait a few seconds , removes easily . I've posted a few removal videos on my channel and in them somewhere is really large components like L5 or bigger and you can see how this method works perfectly . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
I have a lot of hoarded Amiga computers to recap, most have leaked fluid, slightly corroded the PCB, gray solder joints, the caps are tightly packed with other components, heat is a no no, 2 soldering irons, you can not get in there, the twist is the way to go, some snip the cap case first, I will try a board soon, maybe I do a video, thanks for the video. What is best way to solder new caps back in such a scenario of tight space.
I'm glad it's not just me struggling!
I'm all new to this PCB repair, just managed to fix 4 tool chargers lately, as that's the only broken stuff I've been able to get hold of so far.
Anyway, pulled the circuit boards from an old TV the boss was throwing out, so trying to salvage parts from the board. I was really struggling to de solder these damn capacitors with a single iron (all I have currently, just ordered a hot air station to add to the collection). I quickly decided they were too much hassle to salvage for their value. I actually ended up using the pliers method only I didn't twist I rocked back and forward, probably 6-8 out of 10 would rip the capacitor out the base and into the bin, but a few come off in tact. Found that the quickest method especially if its just a capacitor in the way of something else and I just want it gone.
I'll order a second iron in the near future and see how the two irons go! Cheers
What flux do you use now? Thanks!
Do you have any video guide on how to remove electrolytic through hole capacitors with bent legs ?
This was so much easier than using my bread knife. :)
Hi , thank you for your continued support of my channel , it's really appreciated 👍
It is therapeutic watching your videos. Thank you.
Hi , thank you for returning to my videos and always leaving positive comments , it's really appreciated . Hopefully my channel can continue to help a few people out with their soldering / desoldering issues . Thanks again , take care 👍
Take a piece of copper wrap it around several times around the tip of your soldering iron so it looks something like a fork then spread the size just right to slide on both sides of the capacitor try on soldering it and using that method and when you're done just slight the copper coil off tip of your soldering iron and put it somewhere so you can forget it and have to make another one when you need it again
Do you have any methods or tricks to clean very dirty PCBs from accumulated dust, dirt, rust, oil etc without harming the connectors or caps? Maybe it could be a popular video.
Hi , thank you for your comment . I've posted a complete cleaning video on my channel , may be of use . Thanks again 👍
How about Hot Tweezers??
@@fredwooding599 hi , thank you for your comment . I personally prefer 2 soldering irons over hot tweezers as sometimes because of nearby components you may need to come in from different angles on each joint and soldering tweezers don't allow this . They are good at times but for me 2 irons wins the day . Thanks again 👍
Don't forget about using low-temp solder like ChipQuik. I haven't tried it on large caps (or something like the heatsink tab on a TO-220), but I don't know why it wouldn't work. And it certainly works for devices with (many) more than two leads.
Note that there are other sources for this type of solder other than ChipQuik, but I do happen to like their gel flux quite a bit, some of which comes with most of their de-soldering kits/packs.
Hi , thank you for your comment . I know all about ChipQuik , never had the need to use it . I just use leaded solder if I'm struggling. I know a lot of hobbyists would be put off of ChipQuik due to the price , as very expensive per metre . Never struggled with any rework enough to buy any really . Low melt solders are not my favourite solders in general I must admit . Thanks again 👍
Twisting them off has never failed for me and I've removed hundreds.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated . I'm glad you agree on the twist method , that's great to hear as some people are still a bit dubious about this . Certainly not me as I fully agree with you
Thanks again , take care 👍
The real problem is that a lot of these simply don’t work with leaked caps. The corroded solder refuses to melt without board-damaging levels of heat, gobs of flux, and liberally added fresh solder. By the time you’ve done that to every cap on the board you may as well have just cut them off and cleaned up the mess.
Heat resistant Kapton tape is the go with hot air gun
@@andrewverran6998 hi , thank you for your comment . Trust me anyone decent in the industry with experience of using hot air goes with Aluminium foil . Kapton has nowhere near the heat resistance of foil tape . Seen so many people over the years get caught out using branded Kapton . Please try it .
@mrsolderfix3996 will give it a try so you mean roofing aluminium roofers tape ? ..cheers.
@andrewverran6998 hi , 3M are a brand but very expensive . Try a brand called 'Advance' . Just get a sticky backed Aluminium foil . A lot cheaper than the 3M brand ones and will do a great job . Thanks for your comments 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 much appreciated..
Love your videos...been watching for years.
@@andrewverran6998 hi , thank you for all your support . Hopefully you get on ok with the tape , take care 👍
Cheaper and faster, use diagonal plier for cutting capacitor at it's base.
@@xiaomao9930 hi , I think I showed that method , don't get your comment 🤔
@@mrsolderfix3996Sorry, maybe my sentence was not explicit enough, done.
what annoys me is the way those caps are designed, pads hidden underneath ! And on some of them, those that are very close to other components, turning the cap at PCB design stage by 90deg would have made it easy to access the pads. This is one of the reasons why I chose , many years ago , not to go into electronics pro repair business, I only repair stuff now when I really have to
Hi , I totally agree about everything you say . Sometimes pcb's have so much room on them and they fit the smallest parts available . I know in some instances certain parts have to be used to get the correct measurements , signals etc but not all the time . Thanks for raising this point , take care👍
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