How To Remove Electrolytic Capacitors - 3 Great Methods
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ต.ค. 2024
- How to remove Electrolytic Capacitors - 3 great Methods , is a clear , informative soldering tutorial showing the 3 best removal options for your SMD Electrolytic Capacitors.
Including clear , informative video guides of every method , you will get to learn the best option for each different Electrolytic removal scenario.
Showing Do's and Don'ts and things that can go wrong , this guide is all you need to help you with your Electrolytic capacitor removals in the future.
If you enjoy this soldering tutorial and find it of use please consider liking and subscribing and make sure to hit the notification bell so as to not miss out on any future soldering / desoldering releases on the Mr SolderFix TH-cam channel.
Thank you for your time and Good luck.
Mr SolderFix
#soldering #electrolyticcap #smdsoldering
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For people that work on severely compromised PCBs with acid damage / corrosion, etc. the twist method can be more dangerous, but for PCBs in good condition it is safer, when done carefully as shown in this video. When using hot air on electrolytic capacitors, it is perhaps a good idea to wear safety glasses too. I really appreciate this channel's recommendation of the 2 irons method, which I have adopted a lot in my own work on various components. As usual, great stuff. Love the videos.
I use the twist method for EVERY removal as I don't reinstall any SMD ele-caps. If your board is so compromised you're not comfortable twisting off a cap, that board needs a rework anyway and a bit of rough handling will bring your weak points to light.
@@texNoz I agreed, if the pad already damaged then it need rework anyway, So I still use the twist methods
@@texNoz For old and fragile PCBs the entire thing is a weak point. These things require a more gentle approach. I am not talking about re-using caps, but spending countless hours repairing pads and tracks I've ripped off for no good reason. I use the twist method too, but I always consider the situation carefullly first.
AHnother great video, full of fantasyic tips and tricks. I've learnt so muc, since I started watching you. Thanks for sharing.
Hi , thank you again for your continued support of my channel , its nice when I see returning viewers . I just want to help people , if I can then that's great . Thanks again , take care 👍
Thanks! I am learning a lot!
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍
Another interesting and informative video, thank you.
Hi , thank you for your support of my channel , very kind of you 👍
You just read my mind i was looking for inspiration about doing this as i have 75 to do on one piece of equipment. Very crowded boards . Thanks for the time and work. I have done the twist method and found if you keep slight downward pressure it helps to stop tearing the pads from the board. I have also unsoldered one leg and tilted the components up and cut the other leg if you can but you if can't heat underneath the components and lift off it's really only if you cant get to one pad.
Another excellent video! I saw another TH-camr puncture the center top of the capacitor with a sharp point to let the brown electrolyte ooze out then using hot air to eliminate the pressure build up. Works very well but I'd definitely use my fume extractor if I try this.
Interesting, but you definitely need to clean the board after the capacitors are removed. If you planned to run it through an ultrasonic cleaner anyway then there’s little concern, and you likely already have some leaked caps if you are replacing them anyway. :)
Fantastic, thankyou
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍
I'm glad it's not just me struggling!
I'm all new to this PCB repair, just managed to fix 4 tool chargers lately, as that's the only broken stuff I've been able to get hold of so far.
Anyway, pulled the circuit boards from an old TV the boss was throwing out, so trying to salvage parts from the board. I was really struggling to de solder these damn capacitors with a single iron (all I have currently, just ordered a hot air station to add to the collection). I quickly decided they were too much hassle to salvage for their value. I actually ended up using the pliers method only I didn't twist I rocked back and forward, probably 6-8 out of 10 would rip the capacitor out the base and into the bin, but a few come off in tact. Found that the quickest method especially if its just a capacitor in the way of something else and I just want it gone.
I'll order a second iron in the near future and see how the two irons go! Cheers
I've pulled pads off of a Nintendo 64 and a receiver hdmi board using the twist method. It all depends on the integrity of the board and the pads. If all else fails I now use flush cutters to cut the caps.
Hi , thank you for your comment . Personally I have worked on some very poor quality boards and I've found if you are careful with the twist method it is very safe . As myself and others have commented we've never taken one pad off doing this method . I personally don't like the cutter method ( hence why I didn't show it ) but as I've always said if you have a method that works for you and you are happy stick with it . Thanks again 👍
This was so much easier than using my bread knife. :)
Hi , thank you for your continued support of my channel , it's really appreciated 👍
Thanks for this video. I will use your method in the future.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , really appreciate it . Hopefully these methods can help a few people out with their cap removals . Thanks again , take care 👍
This is another great video with so many helpful tips, thank you!
It may not be your exact cup of tea but i'd love to see how you remove and install smd micro sd and smd sd card eexpansion ports, they are an item that no one else at my workplace will even attempt to remove or install and I get the "pleasure" of doing them for the other technicians.
I use a rs pro soldering station and even with the hot air set as low as i can go (lead free solder is enforced in my workplace) at about 420c while moving about the hot air and never letting it stagnate I still manage to soften the plastic or completely seperate one of the pins from the connector itself both ruin the port.
I have replaced a few micro SD card connectors by simply soldering each leg, applying (some kind of) low-temperature-solder.
Gently heat the board and every pin will melt - lift the broken part, clean all low-melt alloy away, solder each pin or use hot-air 'as-usual'
Twisting them off has never failed for me and I've removed hundreds.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated . I'm glad you agree on the twist method , that's great to hear as some people are still a bit dubious about this . Certainly not me as I fully agree with you
Thanks again , take care 👍
Nicely done, on the larger caps I’ve cut the tops with a dremel, pulled out the innards and cut the pins from the inside. This however takes ages so your twist method looks promising.
Do you pull the wick or push it with the iron?
Hi Mr Solderfix! I think I have bitten off more than I can chew! I have owned a Korg 01/W FD since 1995 and given that it is over 30 years old, I decided to fully service and replace the electrolytic capacitors. I watched a lot YT videos to see how it is done and then have a go. I have botched it up and need help to diagnose and fix the issues I have created! I am based in London. Thanks
Any tips on removing something like L5 - just to the right of C36 in the video.
@@dougp6664 hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . Really simple answer to your question is to use 2 soldering irons or soldering tweezers . I much prefer 2 irons as in this case I would fit 2 larger soldering iron tips , hold one on each joint , wait a few seconds , removes easily . I've posted a few removal videos on my channel and in them somewhere is really large components like L5 or bigger and you can see how this method works perfectly . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
The real problem is that a lot of these simply don’t work with leaked caps. The corroded solder refuses to melt without board-damaging levels of heat, gobs of flux, and liberally added fresh solder. By the time you’ve done that to every cap on the board you may as well have just cut them off and cleaned up the mess.
Boop