This was the most helpful video I could find after weeks of searching. Thankfully, I bought the same guides that you have, and don't have to use a router :)
Great vid. The door stop that connects to the skirting bourd. Once the door passes that stop what’s to stop the door from flapping as there is nothing to secure it?
Thank you! You’re not supposed to cut the groove in the door all the way through so it has a stop at the end of the door. But really I can’t recommend connecting to the skirting. As soon as the niece and nephew came round they tried to open the door like a normal door and ripped it off the skirting! 😂
@@AstroHBF The sliding door that I am fitting is mainly display purposes rather than it being open and closed all the time. To recap, if I was to use them door stops connected to the skirting would I still need to router the bottom of the door?
@@AstroHBF so I’m thinking of installing one for my daughters bedroom as room is tight. Would this be recommended. Is there anything to make the door safer
Hi. Thinking to buy one of this sliding system, but bifore I do just have a questions. Dose this system make a lot of noise when you slide them? Thank you.
I use an older version of this one www.screwfix.com/p/dewalt-dpsb2in1-xj-40mm-second-fix-air-nail-gun-stapler/930hf But I wouldn’t recommend unless you already have a compressor. I use a ryiobi cordless one now and it’s so much more convenient amzn.to/30QOeRV Keep an eye on the ones on amazon coming from America. I got mine £140 delivered
Good job, but do you really need the 1by4 or cant I just screw the rail into the wall? Or is a case of distance required from the wall and architrave? Think most are a distance of 20mm from the wall which is a little more than the door frame.
Yeah you could just screw it in but I found the holes weren’t in the right spacing for my studs. This way the 1x4 went into the studs and then the rail into the 1x4
AstroHBF see what you mean but my internal wall is brick so shouldn’t be a problem just need to make sure about spacing the roller on the ground looks like it could be a pain but needed. Prefer the ones used in the grove of the door.
Hi, I'm thinking about fitting a barn door in my kitchen. Is there a particular type of door I need or can I go to my nearest b and q and get one of theirs?
Screw it, I'm also conna ask what table saw and detail sander you used too. Basically I need to get all this kit and I might aswell as someone for their recommendations :)
The table saw I bought an evolution rage S thingy from B&Q and while it is a good saw, the fence on it massively lets it down so I can’t recommend it. The sander is a little £20 one from B&Q www.diy.com/departments/bosch-80w-240v-corded-detail-sander-psm-8100a/4053423206456_BQ.prd It does the job fine but I just bought a £20 orbital sander from Aldi at the weekend and it’s much better
Great job. Just wondering, how do I know how tall the door should be, as too short it'll be too high up off the ground leaving a big gap under the door. Do you think a door 3cm above architrave is big enough? Also, would there be spacing / rubbing issues if fixed direct into studs? I noticed you mentioned that there's gaps / privacy issues down the stairs in previous comment so wondering if this would possibly help as closer fitting to wall? Many thanks
I went for the tallest door I could find, you could always cut it down if needed. As long as it is over the architrave it will be fine. I think you are right though, if the architrave wasn’t there then you would be fixing direct to the studs and there most likely wouldn’t be the privacy issues I had. The kit does have rubber spacers with it to bring it away from the wall a bit. I reckon you should try it!
@@AstroHBF thank you will do, just renovating house now and making a long to do list, found a perfect pine door for the small kitchen so will watch your video later in the year for the install and keep you updated, thanks!
Thanks for the video. Bought the kit from your links. Question when measuring for the top rail did you measure the door height and add the 43mm or did you also add the bottom gap to that measurement. Cheers
Thank you! I actually just lent the door against the door opening then held the rail over the top of it with a tiny gap for the bottom, then marked the wall
@@AstroHBF thanks for the reply. I know the bar would be strong I was just cincerned with the second bolt going through the hollow part and if it's sturdy enough.
Nice job. Hope your overlap is big enough so that poor victims dont get a glimpse of u on the dunny as they come down the stairs :D I still have PTSD from just such a case in an Army home we were posted in lol
Cheers mate! Issues with the closing of the door is that as you walk down the stairs you can almost see in the bog, not great for privacy. Also the stop I used on the floor, the first time the niece and nephew came round they tried to open it like a normal door and pulled it out the wall. Not ideal! I still think it looks great tho!
Just fitted one this morning..could do with a lock for when your having a shit
Was gonna ask how you lock it… lol
I just popped a little latch on the inside
Lol
This was the most helpful video I could find after weeks of searching. Thankfully, I bought the same guides that you have, and don't have to use a router :)
Mate, is there a way to make the door sturdy? Not like jiggly and supported from the above rack system only ?
Yeah the little jibber screwed into the floor holds it
@@AstroHBF gosh what a prompt response. U earned a subscriber bro ✌️
Thanks to you, I realised that the track rail comes in 2 bits👍🏾...was wondering how I could get one onto a plane😅
thank you for sharing this, now I have better view on the process ahead of me
Good luck!
Brilliant, thank you for posting this. Am attempting it this week so fingers crossed!
Great vid.
The door stop that connects to the skirting bourd.
Once the door passes that stop what’s to stop the door from flapping as there is nothing to secure it?
Thank you! You’re not supposed to cut the groove in the door all the way through so it has a stop at the end of the door. But really I can’t recommend connecting to the skirting. As soon as the niece and nephew came round they tried to open the door like a normal door and ripped it off the skirting! 😂
@@AstroHBF The sliding door that I am fitting is mainly display purposes rather than it being open and closed all the time.
To recap, if I was to use them door stops connected to the skirting would I still need to router the bottom of the door?
Sorry no and now I think back to the video, the stop is on the rail at the top
Awesome video! You saved me a lot of headache and made me laugh in the process. Thank you!
Awesome! Glad it helped
Great video, job done, your relief when completed... brilliant🤣
Thank you!!
When you buy the door , does it have to be the size of the frame? Trying to figure out the size door I need
Wow that's beautiful. I have idea now. Thank you for this video. Best regards from the Philippines.
Thank you! Glad it was helpful!
Can you get seals for these, ive heard they have gaps that mean you can hear people on the toilet
Came out neat!
Cheers buddy!
great been looking at these , any idea how to lock it ?
I bought a little gate latch off Amazon and screwed to the wall inside
Just a quick question looking at installing this. Does the door not swing when closed.
The little jibber on the floor stops it flapping around
@@AstroHBF so I’m thinking of installing one for my daughters bedroom as room is tight. Would this be recommended. Is there anything to make the door safer
Hi. Thinking to buy one of this sliding system, but bifore I do just have a questions.
Dose this system make a lot of noise when you slide them?
Thank you.
No it’s silent pretty much 👍
Great video thanks for sharing
Can I ask, what is the spacer wood plank thing!?
It’s a 1x4 plank of wood so the door doesn’t hit the architrave and also secures to the studs in the wall 👍
Hi there! Thanks for the video. What model nail gun is that?
I use an older version of this one
www.screwfix.com/p/dewalt-dpsb2in1-xj-40mm-second-fix-air-nail-gun-stapler/930hf
But I wouldn’t recommend unless you already have a compressor. I use a ryiobi cordless one now and it’s so much more convenient
amzn.to/30QOeRV
Keep an eye on the ones on amazon coming from America. I got mine £140 delivered
@@AstroHBF thank you, I appreciate the recommendation :)
It got the job done 👍🏽
Can this be done with an existing hinged door or you need to buy another bigger door?
Yeah could do this with the existing door, just take the hinges off it
Hi mate, would the door clear an 18mm architrave if the rails straight mounted to the wall? (dot and dab wall)
Good job, but do you really need the 1by4 or cant I just screw the rail into the wall? Or is a case of distance required from the wall and architrave? Think most are a distance of 20mm from the wall which is a little more than the door frame.
Yeah you could just screw it in but I found the holes weren’t in the right spacing for my studs. This way the 1x4 went into the studs and then the rail into the 1x4
AstroHBF see what you mean but my internal wall is brick so shouldn’t be a problem just need to make sure about spacing the roller on the ground looks like it could be a pain but needed. Prefer the ones used in the grove of the door.
Hi, I'm thinking about fitting a barn door in my kitchen. Is there a particular type of door I need or can I go to my nearest b and q and get one of theirs?
This door was from B&Q I just grabbed the cheapest one. The rail will hold a much heavier door though so it’s up to you which door you go for
How do I "secure" the door so the gliders don't "jump" off the track and making door fall off?
thank you for that will try it my self
Sorry another question, what was the stud finder gizmo that you were using? Do you recommend it? Does it also find wires/pipes?
Stud finder I can recommend
amzn.to/3cCeHFa
Is cheap and works fine. Also does pipes and electrical cables
@@AstroHBF thank you, I appreciate the recommendation :)
Done a good job fella
Thanks very much!
Welcome to DIY world mate ;-)
I really enjoy it! Thanks for checking out the vid!
Is there a weight restriction for these rails? I’d like to use an old Victorian door but it’s heavier than the standard doors.
If it’s screwed into the studs like mine I could easy hang of it
Where did you get the bathroom floor tiles, please?
It was tile depot in Leeds 👍
Screw it, I'm also conna ask what table saw and detail sander you used too. Basically I need to get all this kit and I might aswell as someone for their recommendations :)
The table saw I bought an evolution rage S thingy from B&Q and while it is a good saw, the fence on it massively lets it down so I can’t recommend it. The sander is a little £20 one from B&Q
www.diy.com/departments/bosch-80w-240v-corded-detail-sander-psm-8100a/4053423206456_BQ.prd
It does the job fine but I just bought a £20 orbital sander from Aldi at the weekend and it’s much better
Great job. Just wondering, how do I know how tall the door should be, as too short it'll be too high up off the ground leaving a big gap under the door. Do you think a door 3cm above architrave is big enough? Also, would there be spacing / rubbing issues if fixed direct into studs? I noticed you mentioned that there's gaps / privacy issues down the stairs in previous comment so wondering if this would possibly help as closer fitting to wall? Many thanks
I went for the tallest door I could find, you could always cut it down if needed. As long as it is over the architrave it will be fine. I think you are right though, if the architrave wasn’t there then you would be fixing direct to the studs and there most likely wouldn’t be the privacy issues I had. The kit does have rubber spacers with it to bring it away from the wall a bit. I reckon you should try it!
@@AstroHBF great thank you!
Good luck. Let me know how you get on!
@@AstroHBF thank you will do, just renovating house now and making a long to do list, found a perfect pine door for the small kitchen so will watch your video later in the year for the install and keep you updated, thanks!
@@AstroHBFwhere did you buy your door I've looked everywhere but can't find one talll enough
Thanks for the video. Bought the kit from your links. Question when measuring for the top rail did you measure the door height and add the 43mm or did you also add the bottom gap to that measurement. Cheers
Thank you! I actually just lent the door against the door opening then held the rail over the top of it with a tiny gap for the bottom, then marked the wall
How do you lock these slidding doors?
I just bought a little barn style latch from B&Q
Was this a solid door or a hollow door?
It was hollow core but I could hang off the bar so it would take a much heavier door for sure
@@AstroHBF thanks for the reply. I know the bar would be strong I was just cincerned with the second bolt going through the hollow part and if it's sturdy enough.
Yeah the door held out fine!
Are you a professional builder? Amazing!
Haha far from it but I love the DIY
Nice job. Hope your overlap is big enough so that poor victims dont get a glimpse of u on the dunny as they come down the stairs :D I still have PTSD from just such a case in an Army home we were posted in lol
Hi mate hope your well and love the video, I’m planning doing this next month “he says” did you find any downside to the closing of the door?
Cheers mate! Issues with the closing of the door is that as you walk down the stairs you can almost see in the bog, not great for privacy. Also the stop I used on the floor, the first time the niece and nephew came round they tried to open it like a normal door and pulled it out the wall. Not ideal! I still think it looks great tho!
Awesome:)
Appreciate you checking it out! Thanks!
@3:21 👍🏽
👍
What was the door width vs the doorway opening? Isn't it necessary for the door to be wider than a hinged door?
Is a glazed frame sliding door in the kitchen
be considered as a sound, well-constructed and close-fitting conventional door?
is this guy a carpenter our just a home owner ?
Just a DIYer. Cut my thumb off recently 😂
Not to bad. Lol
Cheers buddy!