How to Delete Fusible Links THE RIGHT WAY: Part 2 | 1st Gen Cummins
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.พ. 2020
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Simple. Effective. To the point. Give this man 100,000 followers!
Thanks! Comments like this mean a lot
@@decentgarage no problem, man! Restoring my late grandfather’s 86 D150 Royale SE 318. Keep up the great content. 🤓
Hey man great video on this. It's way better than alot of the others I've seen on yt. Most of the time they skip the whole process
I appreciate that!
I can't tell you how great your videos are. They have been a huge help with my Cummins Ramcharger. Thank you for terrific content
Thanks!
I just now found this video after commenting on another of your more recent videos. I believe this helps fix part of my issue with my harness as the previous owner took what looks to be a chainsaw to it attempting to fix something (I’m unsure what it was) at the time and now I’m repairing the repair. Thank you for making these videos. Maybe I’ll make a couple of my own to bounce some ideas out there for others!
I am here for a second day on a row to thank you for this contribution to my addiction. Had a "Crank no Start" condition on my 89 Dakota Shelby and after watching your video I decided to go take a look at my fusible links, and BINGO, there was a broken wire.. Ordered my Fuse Block yesterday and awaiting its arrival today.. Fusible links go bye bye as soon as the rain stops today.
Glad to be of help man!
Thank you for making this video its super help and there's not a lot of videos on this so i definitely appreciate it as i'm getting ready to do the same thing to my 92 w250 12v!
Thank you for making this video. I was watching and got a little confused about all the wires. My truck is an 85 d350 with the 5.9 gasser. It was an old farm truck so the wiring is a huge mess. I’m just confused about what wires to cut and basically nervous to cut the wrong things. Other than thst this was a very informative video
thank you again for you're time and you're video 🙏
Thanks for watching!
Great video with tons of easy to understand directions thanks this will definitely help me. Cheers
Glad it was helpful 👍
Great instructions in the video, I subscribed. Getting ready to do my 91.
Thanks!
Great video, glad you told me about your channel. Now I don’t feel as intimidated about deleting my fusible links
Thanks! Let me know if you need help. I'm more than willing to help you get it done
@@decentgarageyour a nice dude
Another great job by this channel!👍👍. I wish chrysler would have done this back when they built these trucks.
Thanks! Glad it was helpful
Great couple of videos man I happened to just have bought my blue sea box😂😂have my wiring harness out and opened up and all because I was in to fix a charging issue but I’m doing this too. Great work man.
Thanks! I would love to just pull the whole harness and clean it up! I may do that when I paint the truck in the next few months
decent_1st_gen yeah it for sure makes it easier
Thank you for the help. Doing my 93 dodge wiring great video
Glad it was helpful!
Nice work. Makes me a little more confident to do mine. I may just copy exactly how you did it looks just like mine does under the hood
I haven't had a single issue with it and it's been almost a year.
Both Part 1 and 2 where great
Thanks!
Did a great job. Only advice that I would give, is to use tessa tape next time. Instead of electrical tape that will get brittle and unravel quuckly with any changes in temperature. Tessa tape is for wiring harnesses. This video really helped me to go ahead and have the confidence to delete my 06 Altima fusable link. Its different because my fusable link is a plastic box with the fuses and relays right on my pos terminal, same concept tho. So thank you for the video!
Great tip!
@@decentgarage have you tried using those marine style positive and negative terminals ?
@@davegrell6600 I haven't, if I were going to redo my terminals I would go over to Oven's garage channel and watch his videos. He has a really good video on updating his terminals
Thank you for this video. I will be deleting g all my fuse links and simplifying my wiring. Great job. Where did you get the fuse boxes?
Thank you for your videos very helpful info , I have two first gens , you must be in Utah looking at the mountains lm in Montana thanks David
Yep, I'm down in Utah.
Awesome job - thanks, well done vid
Thank you!
Great video I have a 91 D150 that's not starting and iv'e checked the starter I'm hoping its my fusible links. However before I tear into it what is your thought on making two jumper wires for the two ignition wires to first see if those fusible links blew out and once its been confirmed then I will tear into it .
Great video you make it look easy
Thanks man! It's still not as clean as I want it so when I pull the fenders for paint I'll clean it up even better.
@@decentgarage i know what you mean i cant stand a wire mess either it just looks tacky to me
This is awesome it looks extremely intimidating but I think I can do it! Mine started out on my 1990 b250 explorer van.. my AC blower and windows tee off and the fusible link went so not only didn't have AC but my windows wouldn't work! What genius put those two together? Lol further down the line I find out the clutch on the AC condenser isn't getting enough power to engage. It's just a mess I want to take the stuff out! This will be extremely helpful! As of right now I just hotwired it separately with buss bar in behind the battery for auxiliary.. but I want to get rid of all those links so that's the next step! ❤️👍
That's hilarious that they wired those two things together! 🤣
looks good. thinking about doing this project next. gotta finish the head gasket project first..
It's really not that hard. Just takes some time.
3 years later and I still haven't done it 😂 I actually got my new fuse block and all the fuses I need for it so any week now. I was wondering did you use a new 4 or 6 guage wire to power the fuse block or did you use the power leg for the duck foot? Also did you leave the two fusible links for the grid heaters?
Cool you're the wiring DR.
I wouldn't go that far!
Great video. Just a quick question. I’m doing a similar project to a friends truck. His truck had a bunch of stuff on a junction block including his grid heater relays. Did you relocate them at all to that main fuse block?
Ok thanks for the help
No problem
i have 93 w250 club cab 6 speed, nothing electrical works anymore, so i will be doing this in near future. I'm thinking about coming off the battery hot to a hot post block for power distribution ahead of the blue sea. Alternator hasn't charged in years, thinking about doing the alternator internal regulator as puter is probly shot. You can put mopar old style regulator on but one wire conversion would be lot simpler, i think.
Awesom video, will be a great help with my new purchase! Thank you. Do you have any inside wisom on adding a 7 pin wiring harness for traler brake controller et all? Cuyrrently has a 4 pin and it seems Hopkins only has from 1995 and up....I am guessing there is no factory plug in and I have to start from scratch pulling wires from the brake switch?
If u ever have trouble with the battery boiling or it ruining the regulator message me, mine went through a bunch of working problems that way, wish I knew about this thing u put in, awesome video! Looking forward to the next one
Hopefully I don't run in to that issue haha.
CowboyRanchLife I have an 89 d250 and my battery was boiling out the acid and I didn’t know what it was then one day while driving I had smoke come outta the dash and It made the message center deal quit working then the truck cut off after that it would spin over but not start did you have any of these same problems if so what did you have to do to fix it I’m considering doing these links and see if that does anything
@@owenrigsby9764 my battery was boiling and I was frying wires, what mine ended up being was the grid heater by the air horn ontop of the engine. Might unhook that and see if that helps, sounds like it might have fried the dash or starter?
Nice!
I am a little confused about the pink wire that originally came from the battery terminal. It now goes from the battery terminal to the fuse block, then to the cut wires closest to the fire wall? Please let me know. Otherwise it was a great video and I enjoy all your content.
Go watch episode 25 in the long bed Larry playlist. I think I explain that wire better there.
I am in the process of this project myself and I am labeling the wires/circuits for future reference. I am a bit confused about the circuits on the Pink/Black Stripe and Brown Wires. I can find information in the service manual about the Pink/Black Stripe wire, but cannot fine a reference to the Brown Wire. It looks like they both tie into the ignition switch, but it is not clear what circuits specifically belong to the Brown Wire. Can you offer any insights?
I have a 1993 truck. Thanks and keep up with the great videos!
Well done man never thought that could be done hey I gotta ? Fromyour knowledge a wiring harness from a dryer could be use to replace some wiring in my fusible link in my 99 f-2507.7 3
I'm not sure about that. It may work.
It did work same wire gauge
I have a 93 w350 automatic, with power windows. Is there a kit I can get. Because it looks like something hard to do. And it needs to be redone as well . Thanks for your videos. Let me know if I can reach out to you for questions.
Thanks especially for your expanded wiring diagram in Part 2. I notice you aren't using the low vacuum switch , which is where my problem started on my '93, while checking for low vacuum due to a failed brake booster . What did you do for the dash indicator light ?
I grounded out the switch so the light doesn't come on. Just make sure to plug the hose or your have a vacuum leak that makes your brakes suck
Hey what lengths of wire would you say to buy
Hey so My 1st gen just started doing this While the AC or heater it’s running it will shut off and then if I wiggle the ignition key it turns back on right away what do you think is causing this shall I replace the ignition switch
I am doing delete on 87 D150 and I have a snag. I hve two 8 ga wires blk and one comes from the forward end of the duck foot but when I unwrapped harness it doubled back into the cabin main harness. The other one came from the cabin side of the duckfoot.Can I hook both wires up to power on my distribution block ? The one that came from the cabin side has a small gage black wire hooked to it as well. Everything else is as you described but I do not know which one is the alternator wire.
Thank you for the video! How did you connect the alternator wire to the connector? Did you use 6 gauge butt connector?
Yes, Napa had 6 gauge butt connectors with solder nuggets that I used.
Appreciate the video because you explain everything very well.
So are the fuses under the dash still working after the new panel install?
Yes, this does not replace the fuses under the steering column.
@@decentgarage I appreciate the reply! I did your set up and everything works again and was easy to do.
Awesome video, thanks for making it! I've done the link delete to my 86 D150 and all works fine except when I run the AC I have 2 fuses blow 1 shutting off the AC and the others shuts down the ignition. If I run a 30 amp on ac I can smell it burning. Have you had any issues?
I have not had any issues with mine since. I would start by making sure all your grounds are good and clean.
I need to hire you to do mine as I have a mental block on wiring .
I'm not for hire 😂
Great video man very helpful
I’m redoing my fusible links exactly how the video states
I look forward to your future videos subscribe d
Awesome! This was one of my first videos so let me know if you have questions.
I want to do the delete just like in your video, have a slant 6 in an 1985 D150, it should be similar. What gauge did you go with on wire side before the fusible links? Correct me if I'm wrong ,the parent wire has got to be a few sizes bigger than the link right? Then you spliced the matching wire gauge and ran it to the fuse block, with negative and positive 4gauge-6gauge wire to battery posts? In a nutshell...
Where did u get the block from. I got do the same having a issue with my 93 d250 not charging
I like the delete idea but I will do it a little differently. Thanks for the basic idea regardless
Let me know what you end up doing different.
@@decentgarage There are several small things. The one thing that made me comment was having so many wires attached to the battery terminal. I'm just not a fan of that personally. I would choose to maybe run a slightly larger gauge wire to the from the battery to the larger post on your fuse box. Then use that post as a sort of junction point for the other 2 wires to attach to. They would end up shorter in length and would be kinda tucked out of sight. Again... this looks like a good mod that I will do on my build. Just skin my cat a little different.
Love the video, the fuseblock is no longer available on Amazon though.
It comes and goes as far as when it's in stock. Usually if it's out of stock it's back in a few weeks.
Great work, I do wonder will this same procedure in theory work on my 1990 w250 12 valve?
I would guess so but I know the 90 is much simpler. Maybe someone will chime in if they have tried it
@@decentgarage I did notice I have half the wires you do, seeing as I dont have the computer and such. Though the duck foot is the same
Great videos my friend 🤘 the only question I have is why the two fuse blocks? Can’t delete the links with one?
Yeah, you need the blue seas system 150 to delete the fusible links. The other one I have in there is one I put in years ago to hook up accessories such as trailer brake controller, stereo, backup camera, etc. All stuff that can be on a 30 amp fuse or less.
Great video, I found myself here because I have a 1999 Ford Expedition with a discontinued Fusible Link from the alternator to the battery (Can not find the part). Just put in a new alternator battery still not charging. Do you have a video for this wiring assembly fusible link. I was considering deleting that fusible link and replacing it with a 175 amp fuse like the one you did in this video.
Is this posable and do you know the amp of the fuse I need?
Great videos, and perfect timing, as I have just gathered up all the wiring and Blue Sea boxes to do both my '92 C/C and '88 Cummins Ramcharger. Have saved these videos for reference. One question though..How did you you address the 2 black 100 amp fusible links that come off the battery, that power the grid heater solenoids? I didn't see them on your battery cable. Both my trucks have them. Did you rewire yours in any way, or left them alone? Thanks!
Great question Sean! I actually didn't hook those back up yet cause I'm not sure if I'll hook them to the battery or one of the positive terminals of my fuse blocks. They just need to be hooked up to full power. They are on 12 gauge fusible links but those ones never have issues. If the do end up have issues I may hook them into the fuse for the alternator or on their own high amperage fuses.
How did you end up addressing this? Thanks, Harlin
Have you ever ran into the speed sensor taking the AC and the alternator offline? I purchased a new speed sensor and ran a new wire and if I use an external Transformer of about 8.9 volts I can get the speedometer to react using a drill however when I mount it in the transmission I get nothing. When I connect it from the power via the PCM wiring harness again it causes the alternator and air conditioner to stop working. I have checked the wiring harnesses but have been unable to find any issues with them and added the loom to them as well to ensure there was no grounding. Thanks
well hoping for the best from your video. got me a 56k miles dually 1st gen. decided i did not like the wiring so i started cutting out all the inlines. easy enough right. well my truck has been setting almost 2 years as i cannot get it to start. i have dodge blueprints and wire diagram from bentley. still lost but hope i can follow yours to fix it. i can touch my brown start wire to battery and it will crank but not with key switch. i am such a idiot at times.
Curt, I hope you got your wires identified, reconnected, and got that 1st gen running again.
@@mega_game_play i-did-get-it----driving-in-it-today----thank-you-kindly
Did you use one size wire for all of the accessory replacements or did you up the gauge to compensate for removing the F/L?
The video should explain that. If the F/L is 16 gauge replace it with a 12 gauge wire. 18 replace with 14. Etc
What are the two “towers” with the larger gauge wires on them by the fuse boxes? Seems like on mine the have a wire that come together to one lug, both have large fuseable links.
If you're talking about the grid heater relays that's what that would be.
Asome video just ordered the parts where can I find the two wire diagrams that you showed in part 1&2 would like to print them out
The best way to get them is just pause the video and screenshot them
It looks good but I've seen (read) that the fusible link/replacement should be as close as possible to the item being powered. What have you found to be different? Thank for the vid!
In a perfect world, yes. However, this is where the engineers placed them from factory so I feel safe having them in the same location.
I'm working on a 85 Dodge Ram flat bed trk 360/727 60 thousand miles on trk low mileage because of these fuseable links I only got 2 drives out of the trk and after that the trk sat for 5 years after that
Do this revision and it shouldn't have issues moving forward
Does the pairing of wires to each midi fuse matter? For example, can you wire the twin red 14 gauge wires with the red 12 gage wire to the same 40 amp midi fuse? or is there potential to overload a fuse? Thanks for all the information you post, I'm replacing my fusible links this week!
I will pair any 40 with another 40. If there is a spike in voltage from one of them it will blow the fuse
This video should hopefully get our w250 running, thanks! One question, which wire goes to the 60 amp midi fuse on the panel?
Shoot, I'm funny have to go back to my notes on that one. The answer to that should be in one of the diagrams that i put on the screen during the videos
Okay, I’ll rewatch it for sure when I attempt it next week after we get the safehub150 in, thanks!
I've watched your video twice. And still have missed it. On the wiring diagrams there is a 10ga wire going to the ALT. When you ran a new 6 ga wire from the ALT do you bypass both the 10ga and the original 6 ga?
Yes, I run a 6 gauge from the connector by the alt kn the passenger inner fender, up along the fire wall straight to the fuse box for my 175 amp mega fuse. I then run that to the positive post on my blue seas fuse block. Does that help? No more 10 gauge fusible link at all.
Might have missed it. Where did you connect your grid heater relay?
You didn't miss it, I just forgot to mention it haha. I will run them to the positive post of one of my fuse blocks instead of to the battery directly. I will leave them as fusible links though.
Great video. Thank you. I have a 93 as well and was wondering where you connected the dark red wire that was next to the pink wire. I believe the one you thought went to the ignition.
It's been a while since I did this but I believe the wire you are referring to is to the starter relay.
@@decentgarage yes that wire.
@@user-cg6ql5hq6x yep, starter relay. That actually doesn't need fused at all
@@decentgarage I guess it just got hooked back up to power? Aka battery ?
@@user-cg6ql5hq6x yep, any 12 lb source
may i ask what guage wire you used i have a whole role of 12g wire would that work? thanks
Hey Nick, sorry I saw you messaged me on Facebook but then couldn't find the message to respond. Here is the general rule, if the fuse link is 18 gauge use 14 gauge wire, for 16 gauge fuse link use 12 gauge wire and so forth. Make sense?
Do you recall what size the ignition wire is from the starter relay? 12 or 20 gauge?
It was pretty small for sure. I don't recall the exact size but I would say 20 out of those two options.
Thank you for making the video! What is the kind of fuse box did you use for the smaller amps? I didn’t see it on your list of supplies.
Thanks again for making the video.
Great questions. I didn't refer to that in this video. I have another video about installing an external fuse block that talk about that. On this specific fuse block that i use in this video there are 4 or so slots for normal fuses that you can use. My other external fuse block has 12 slots. Hope that helps.
@@decentgarage so reading other comments, you still keep fuse box underneath steering wheel and you have an external fuse box? I’ll check out your other video you mentioned above. Thank you again.
@@michaellienemann5207 good question. Leave the fuse box under the steering column. This box is powered through the fusible Links. My external fuse block is only for accessories such as trailer brake controller, stereo, etc
@@decentgarage Thank you for answering the question I posted about the under dash fuse block.
Did this fuse block installation help remove the need for the fuse block under the steering column/dash?
No this fuse blocks replaces the fusible links which are responsible for powering the fuse box under the dash.
Hey man can I run my 1gen with out pcm. I like to cancel all the wiring harness n use one wire to the pump
Yes, there are tons of writeups on the forums about deleting the pcm.
Has it held up in the long run I’m thinking about doing this soon
yes, we are now 4 years later and I have not had any issues with this. Actually I shorted my fuel shutoff solenoid while tweaking the pump and it blew on of the fuses. I was able to replace it with one I had in the glove box. Had the link still been in it would have been much more complicated.
I’m still a bit confused on how to connect the new alternator wire, I have it hooked up to the 175, but what did you do to connect to the alternator?
I ran a new cable from the 175 amp fuse up the firewall and over to the passenger inner fender. Right there i cut the main wire that goes to the alternator and soldered it to my new wire right there
Wow definitely some great vids on the dodge. What size replacement wire did you use going to the alternator to the 175 amp fuse holder and from the battery to both new fuse holders. I'm about to do the same upgrade on my ramcharger. Thanks again!!
I used 4 gauge for those main wires i believe.
@@decentgaragewhere does that wire go from the other side of the 175a mega fuse? To the battery?
@@MisterBewst yes
@@decentgarage and are the fuses the same amperage for the gas trucks?
@@MisterBewst I do not know the answer to that but I would guess so
I have seen every one of your videos and several of them I have watched numerous times. I am deleting the fusable links right now on my 93 Cummins D250 and am lost concerning the wires that are not in the duck foot. I wish that you had a Patrion channel so I could ask you questions
Reach out to my email. It's in the video description.
@decentgarage I also would like to know how you ran these as I will be tackling this, this winter
Whats up man great video, what gage wire did you use on all of the wires you extended did you use what the diagram said the gage wire was for each extention ?
Thanks for the question. In determining the gauge of wire to use to replace the fusible link do the following. In the chart I show in the videos the gauge referenced in the gauge of the actual fusible link. The gauge wire used to replace the fusible link should be 4 gauges larger than the fusible link. For example, if the fusible link was 20 gauge replace it with a 16 gauge wire. Hope that makes sense!
@@decentgarage can I ask why you did this with all but the alternator wire? You say you simply replaced the 6 gauge with another 6 gauge?
@@destrik i put the alternator on its own 150 amp mega fuse.
Any idea where the different wires from the duck foot feed to?
There are diagrams in the videos that show that information.
Are your diagrams located somewhere? I thought I heard you say in the vid that you would attach them.
I just took a screenshot of the diagrams as the video played.
hey if i use a bus bar could i have less things from the terminal ?
Yes, the thing with a bus bar is it's not fused but you could definitely do that as a constant power block
Great videos and less than 2k subscribers? The sixth wire , the pink one is that the turn signals wire? I have a 92 2WD D250 Cummins auto.
Thanks man! Share the channel and videos to help it grow. I think you are correct on the 6th wire 👍
@@decentgarage Many thanks
What all gauges of wire do you need, I have a 87 w-100
The video should talk about determining what gauge wire based on the diagrams shown
So what did you do with the original fuse box under the dash?
The original fuse box does not change or get messed with at all. This is only to change out the fusible links which provide power to the fuse block under the dash.
Sorry if I missed it did you find the short ?
I don't think there was a short...
Great video! is there a write up on this somewhere?
There are a few write-ups but they do not go in to near as much detail as I did, hence the reason i made the video.
@@decentgarage Understandable! You did an excellent job, it's just that box you installed confuses me a tad bit. I'll watch it again.
Looks good. Mine is a 90 bare bones so I have a lot less wires than you do. I was able to actually run my alternator wire through a midi. I'm a born and raised Chevy guy and bought this first gen for the cool factor that they are. I actually like the way the truck is laid out but Dodges execution was terrible. The wiring in these trucks is worse than my 70 Chevy is. The complete lack of aftermarket support for interior parts, and electrical stuff suprises me knowing I can get about anything for about any Chevy truck I want.
Yeah a pre91 1st would be ideal just to have less wiring. From my research people run a wide range of fuses for the alternator from 100 amps up to 200.
I have a 92 1st gen, 5spd, 4x4 crew cab. Slightly over 107k miles - great shape. But....periodic/intermettent electrical problems: AC fan not turning on all the time, speed control intermittent, window not raising. So..figure fusible links possible problem (I really suck at electrical testing). So.... long way to get to question, how many hours did this deletion take you?
It took me about 5 hours total and that was with filming it. I would set aside a full day and just knock it out. It sounds like this could be your problem.
Seen a few of these videos but no one has had a ground to the negative bus bar on the safety hub with mini’s where’s it getting it’s ground from?
All my grounds are run to the driver fender.
Hey I hope you get this comment. I just found/subscribed to your channel. I’m gonna use this video to do my 93W350 fuse links, where did you get your fuse blocks from?
Check out the description of the video. I've got links to everything I used. 👍
@@decentgarage Thanks man...looking into a fuel pin as well! Did you replace the gov spring in yours?
Yes, I've got an extensive video on doing the gov spring as well as one on the fuel pin. Order from the hungry diesel and use my decent1stgen promo code to 10% off
I’m still wondering why my 91.5 dodge is overcharging according to my voltmeter it’s doing about 14.5 to like 15.1 bounces back-and-forth and I don’t know if it’s a fusible link problem I know the guy that worked on my truck over by Atlantic PA they did welding on it without disconnecting the battery which that was by Design to hurt me and I’ll because he’s a jag off anyway ha ha hey guy thanks for the video I really appreciate it you’re a good dude man you’re just a good guy. All right you have a good day bye
The wire for the alternator, when you followed it down on the passenger side and said you were gonna cut/disconnect it there, is that a fusible link as well?
It turns out that it is also a fusible link. I have not had any issues with it.
You are a brave soul 🙂 I want to do this to my old Cadillac, but I’m terrified I’d end up eventually burning up the wiring. Good Job
This video has been great. Quick question, did you run into any problems with the voltage acting up? After removing fusible links, voltage runs up to normal levels for a few seconds then drops out. That voltage cycle continues over and over. I must have miswired something. I believe it might have something to do with the brown wire coming from the battery to the starter relay? Is that wire supposed to go to a 40AMP circuit? I still have it going directly to the starter relay. Please let me know what you think.
What you're describing sounds like a normal cycling of the grid heaters.
@@decentgarage Thanks for the quick reply. The problem is the voltage drops to zero. Then back up to to about 14 volts..then to zero again. About every 3 seconds. Quick question... The two starter relay wires coming from the positive terminal (1 pink and 1 brown), did you set those both to a 40AMP circuit?
@@kelmaxkir123 i left the two starter wires alone. They are still going straight to the positive terminal.
This video was fantastic. My real question is where did you start ? Where was the beginning of this project ? It really looks intimidating. Thank You.
Did you watch part 1? There was a part 1 for this and I can see how you would be confused if you didn't see that. Let me know if you can't find it.
@@decentgarage i found it on my main page. Currently fixing up my 91 non-intercooled first gen and i wanted to do this exact thing you did and i cant thank you enough for these videos! My one question is do you fear these fuse boxes getting wet driving in a rain or snow storm? Looking to keep my truck reliable because i really need it to haul hay and whatever else! thanks!
@@royaltydiesel6734 this particular box has a seal that should be water tight 👍
@@decentgarage Thank you sir! watching your frame paint video now as im in the process of doing that myself! i used the rattle can stuff but probably wouldve been beter off doing it like you did. also threw a 01 disc brake dana 70 axle in the rear. thank you for the information videos!
@@royaltydiesel6734 yeah there are plenty of ways to do the frame paint. Once you get caught up on the videos you'll see that I'm using a completely different method on my jeep. Thanks for the support!
Would those old fusable links have something to do with O/D not working as well?
Likely not. I have two other videos on OD issues you should watch.
@@decentgarage thanks i got it figured out now!
I just did this to my 92 d350 and the pink and black wire keeps popping my fuses. Any advice where to look? Truck will not crank.
I believe those are to your starter relay. Is there a small wire connected to your starter?
I don't know if you would have any recommendations for me, but I have an 1989 w150 and the wiring is such a mess, everything has been straight wired together and it causing a lot of issues. I'm not sure where to start on. I had a drainage issue but found out the radio and the tachometer was wired together and connected to the battery, it was causing my truck to shutoff.
My best advice would be to buy a factory service manual and learn to read the wiring harness. Start from one wire and work through.
I take it the original fuse box still runs all the rest of the standard equipment?
Yes, the original fuse box is fed by power that comes through the fusible Links
Hey Decent, I lost power to headlights the other day.
Can you verify that the "blue 60amp 16ga wire is for the headlight switch?"
I can't off the top of my head but the diagrams in the video are correct.
Now if you could just get the fuses to release a little smoke warning when something is reaching the end of the amp load threshold. LOL.
Pretty straighforward.....not confusing at all.
I have an '85 Ramcharger that should be modded like this.
One huge mod is the HD headlight harness. Apparently, the headlight switch is a fire hazard because it carries the total 12v battery power. Without the HD headlight harness, when other lighting functions stop working, it's usually because the switch is burnt or damaged from the 12v battery load.
Right now, this Ramcharger I haven't even driven since I bought it has all of the symptoms of the hinky factory wiring.
Yep, the headlight harness and headlight switch are weak points. I have a video on installing a relay harness
Is there a ground on that box?
Yes
Hey man I’m a bit confused as far as the alternator wire goes? You mentioned going to a larger gauge wire for the fusible links accordingly but you also said your using a new 6 gauge alternator wire in place of the pre existing 6 gauge, why didn’t you go to a larger gauge wire for just the alternator?
So for fusible Links they are basically under sized wires that blow where they get too much load. The alternator wire is not this way so you replace it with the same size wire or even larger. Looking back i probably could have even replaced it with 4 gauge or 2 gauge wire. Just make sure to thane the 150 mega fuse or I've seen others put it on a breaker
@@decentgarage so even though the alternator wire is run through the fusible link duck foot it does not have a fusible link?
@@destrik yeah so the actual alternator fusible link (green wire i believe) is 10 gauge so replace it with 6 gauge or bigger and the fuse
I do not see any ground wires coming off the safety hub? How many ground wires do I need? For this application please and what size connectors did you use for your 6gauge alternator connectors and length please
I ran one main ground from the safety hub to the fender and that has been sufficient so far. For the alternator I just got the appropriate sized connectors for the 6 gauge wire from Napa.
Ok thanks and what size ground wire please?
@@Moonacrefrenchies i used 6 gauge for the ground wire as well