An interesting discovery after having this amp for a while. I was disappointed that the output just wasn't there. It just wasn't any louder than head unit power on a Kenwood Excelon double-din (probably ~9watts RMS) to the same speakers. Maybe a 'feature' of the head unit but I also had to push the volume to 30 out of 35 before I had enough output to get any kind of bass or dynamics. I also noticed that setting any of the full range DSP crossovers over 6dB/octave resulted in audible harshness. I had even pushed the "master volume" all the way to +6dB and played with the individual speaker gains to stay out of clipping. This compressed the sound and made the tweeters harsh but at least it gave me a bit more volume. I've had it installed for almost 2 months now, and had managed to get it sounding pretty good, although volume anemic. I had the sub blending pretty well too. I had never touched the time alignment settings for anything other than the subwoofer, which sounded best somewhere between 48 and 72 inches with the sub all the way forward behind the rear seat backs. Tonight while tuning some other things, I said "screw it", and adjusted the time alignment for woofer and tweeter. After saving the settings for the first time, I noticed something. I had turned the HU volume down to about half, but suddenly things were MUCH louder. My volume must have tripled. I had so much more volume that my poor 50W RMS door speakers were distorting badly (from wattage) by about 32 on the head unit, and the DSP clipping light was on by 33. I had to drop the DSP master volume from 0dB to -5dB to avoid clipping @ 35 HU volume. This head unit appears to play clean from RCA's at full volume. Even after setting the TA settings back to 0, the volume increase stayed. Anyway, I can't believe not initially setting the TA settings was robbing my wattage from the amp. I haven't tested to see if the crossovers are cleaner, but I'm betting they will be. Any idea why this would be a thing? A firmware bug? I can't seem to find a newer version. Also, just another note. This amp runs HOT. I've seen it reach 50C after being on for an hour or more. It's in open air mounted bottom-down on a seat back. The 800 Watt SKAR next to it barely gets warm playing the same time frame.
I have a maxima with a 8 speaker set up, the two rear deck speakers are 6x9 woofers. I love this type of set up and wanna keep it so this amp is awesome for the bandpass option for those back 6x9's
Thank you so much for touching more on the SQ side for us SQ guys ...this is a great amp/DSP..i wanted it for my wifes car but she also uses optical output on her HU and this DSP doesn't have optical input
Looks pretty solid and well worf da price! The Pro Audio guys say JBL stands for "Junk, but Loud", but I think they mainly make great products for car audio. Here's a fine example! Great video brotha Vega 🤙
I run one of these in my 14 Ford explorer sport. Thing is amazing. It's loud, and clean. The software is better than the audison it replaced. In fact, I was going to repair the audison, lost a channel, but I don't even have to anymore. This thing is amazing.
The amp is a good value when it comes to its dsp features, including the expense of providing an usb stick. It is a good option if the goal is simply to mildly upgrade a stock system . With only 40 wpc on such a small and unfinned case, heat will definitely be an issue. There are few, if any, high quality drivers with recommended wattage that low so consequently the amp will be pushed hard to get louder volumes out of it with non stock speakers. Great job explaining the dsp, a couple more like that and this old school guy might take the plunge into it.
Its designed to utilize JBL/Infinity speakers which are 2.5 ohms so getting more than 40 watts rms. The only drawback is needing a laptop to make any adjustments. It has multiple profiles you can save but you can only switch them from laptop.
Great video, the overview of the software is definitely going to help!! But random question hopefully you can help, We are trying to trouble shoot our install and I'm sure I know the answer but in order for the green LED power indicator to come on does the unit have to have power and signal going to it? Or would power just be enough for the Green LED to come on? We have good power and ground but the green LED does not turn on with just power and we have tried two different units. Thanks!
Much more compact than my old MS-8, I loved that thing. I ended up upgrading to a T1000x5ad with a DSR-1 but the JBL MS-8 served its purpose for many years
I have this and it’s wonderful I actually have its little brother the infinity dsp 4 channel version of this. I use both together and haver 14channels its great
Thank you HiFi as always great video audio tutorial commentary demo editing unbias testing I love JBL, Infinity, Polk Audio Always great value & quality products who haven't sold out to MaXXonics.
What are the options for using a separate subwoofer amp and controlling with the DSP? Speaker level outputs from the dsp into the rca adapters into the amp?
@@HifiVega My amp only has RCA inputs. This DSP is supposed to come with speaker to rca adapters where you can connect channel 7-8 speaker outputs on the dsp and run them to rca inputs on another amp. I'm assuming the levels would need to be very low, as anything over over ~4 volts may over-drive the sub amp.
@@HifiVega Just wanted to update in case any one else was wondering. Using the speaker to RCA adapters, My DSP amp would go into protect with the gains (in the DSP) above a minimal level, and both sub1 and sub2 being used for each RCA from the head unit. I had to install a RCA Y-splitter on one of the speaker to RCA adapters, connecting both split RCA's to my bass amp, and sum the output from two sub input channels to one output in the input mixer. Problem solved.
@sumdood2035 hadn't thought of that. To clarify, you used one RCA adapter off of one channel, 7 or 8, into a splitter to the 2 RCA inputs of the subwoofer amp? What settings on the DSP to get the level down?
Been using this for nearly 2 years. The biggest problem that you will have is heat. It produces a lot of heat and if not installed in a ventilated area, it will almost always shut down.
Looking to do an install on my 10th gen civic using the stock headunit. Upgrade to 50 rms kicker door speakers and kicker 10" all in one sub. Want to push the speakers a bit more with having more control over eq. See this model factory refurb for $300. Worth getting this or something else to support my needs?
What would you recommend for a dsp that can push 2 12 rockford fosgate t1s2 and 100w rockford fosgate 6 1/2 mids and 40w rockford fosgate 3 1/2 highs? Amps are t400x4ad for my highs and mids and t1500-1bdcp for subwoofer if that matters
I can’t figure out how to save my equalizer setting to the amp fully it sounds good after I edit it on the computer once I turn my car off the amp goes back to a default setting it makes it sound flat again with 24db slope on all speakers I can’t figure out why it’s doing that
@@HifiVega Yeah I had to move them around and it's good now. I have one more problem, though. With both RCA's (with the included speaker level to RCA adapters) connected to my dedicated bass amp, at a certain moderate sound level the dsp amp goes into protect, the sound cuts out and comes back on 2-3 seconds later. If I back off the volume or the sub level it will stay playing. i thought maybe I was overdriving the amp via the RCA adapters. I had to cut the sub gain to -29dB in the JBL before it would stop going into protect at full clean volume, while I had a single RCA at -7dB without any problems. If I disconnect one of the rca's, it doesn't cut out. If I connect one or the other, it doesn't cut out. I'm at a loss. The other other variable is that there is still some paint remaining where the ground is connected. I'm wondering if my ground is not adequate. I used sandpaper and got it thin but there is still some paint. The DSP was still showing 13.6v right before the audio would cut out. My system consists of the JBL DSP , a SKAR RP-800.1D, and a Stinger 4GA CCA amp kit. I picked up a cheap oscilloscope. I'll run it on the RCA adapters and make sure I'm not sending more than 6V or so to the amp.
Jbl needs lil more respect when it comes to car audio. There amps always made numbers. They had pretty intresting budget and high end subs(gti) .there door speakers have always been pretty good.
Yeah but don't you think the more channels hooked up the less power per channel will happen. So the amp test is kinda moot if you don't test all channels simultaneously. just sayin'.
@@RAW_Reality Well zapco makes a great dsp... Mosconi has a good one but like Audison the operation to use the os sucks.... Minidsp is great .... But when it comes down to all around, helix is were its at and you can argue all day if you think alpine is your go too or audio dynamics makes a good one but Helix has set the bar for high end DSP and most competitors use helix
@@bennyblanco14 Somewhat ironically, i wasn't referring to any of the brands you listed, so it'd be a rather hard sell for you to claim anything is "best" when you're not even taking into account all the options... But I get it, domestic exposure only goes so far.
@@RAW_Reality Lol i ment no argument i was just placing my claims and used brands i am familiar with and used but dont get me wrong the DSP is just a tool 90% is the user and set-up but i am a huge helix supporter and tend to go back n forth with others who are lyal yo other brands...its all fun
@@bennyblanco14 LoL... It's all good, I'm all for a bit of banter. 😅 But yeah, getting things tuned in is up to the user, but having a nice unit to work with definitely helps out. Though I tend to look for value in my purchases, so "brand loyalty" isn't really something I concern myself with if something as good is more viable for the cost.
Mr. HiFi Vega - if you would like some copyright free quality music, check out White Bat Audio. I listen to alot of their stuff all of the time. A "punch to the gut" bass heavy killer song, and one of my favorite is "Shin Godzilla". Truly a standout track!
1k ratings on an amp are a joke...Push as easy frquency to maximize the wattage output. Same with 1k ratings on SPL of speakers...It may be the industry's way to rate their products but the numbers are way lower when running full frequency like real music is...Try that amp at 40hz bet the output isn't even close to the 1k rating.
May be late to mention for OP, but 7/8 can be linked and set as sub channels. You can't bridge the channels, but I'm running a Kicker 2 ohm DVC Comp R 8 with each channel on one voicecoil, and it does a decent job. The sub is underpowered, but it's in a ported enclosure, so the output is decent. No problems.
You can buy this amp here:
amzn.to/3IzJrWR (affiliate link)
Yes, but no shipping to Puerto Rico! 0nly crutchfield ships and free!!!
Question can i bridge it to make more power ??
@@mester84 this amp can’t be bridged
An interesting discovery after having this amp for a while. I was disappointed that the output just wasn't there. It just wasn't any louder than head unit power on a Kenwood Excelon double-din (probably ~9watts RMS) to the same speakers. Maybe a 'feature' of the head unit but I also had to push the volume to 30 out of 35 before I had enough output to get any kind of bass or dynamics. I also noticed that setting any of the full range DSP crossovers over 6dB/octave resulted in audible harshness. I had even pushed the "master volume" all the way to +6dB and played with the individual speaker gains to stay out of clipping. This compressed the sound and made the tweeters harsh but at least it gave me a bit more volume.
I've had it installed for almost 2 months now, and had managed to get it sounding pretty good, although volume anemic. I had the sub blending pretty well too.
I had never touched the time alignment settings for anything other than the subwoofer, which sounded best somewhere between 48 and 72 inches with the sub all the way forward behind the rear seat backs.
Tonight while tuning some other things, I said "screw it", and adjusted the time alignment for woofer and tweeter. After saving the settings for the first time, I noticed something. I had turned the HU volume down to about half, but suddenly things were MUCH louder. My volume must have tripled. I had so much more volume that my poor 50W RMS door speakers were distorting badly (from wattage) by about 32 on the head unit, and the DSP clipping light was on by 33. I had to drop the DSP master volume from 0dB to -5dB to avoid clipping @ 35 HU volume. This head unit appears to play clean from RCA's at full volume. Even after setting the TA settings back to 0, the volume increase stayed.
Anyway, I can't believe not initially setting the TA settings was robbing my wattage from the amp. I haven't tested to see if the crossovers are cleaner, but I'm betting they will be. Any idea why this would be a thing? A firmware bug? I can't seem to find a newer version.
Also, just another note. This amp runs HOT. I've seen it reach 50C after being on for an hour or more. It's in open air mounted bottom-down on a seat back. The 800 Watt SKAR next to it barely gets warm playing the same time frame.
I have a maxima with a 8 speaker set up, the two rear deck speakers are 6x9 woofers. I love this type of set up and wanna keep it so this amp is awesome for the bandpass option for those back 6x9's
Thank you so much for touching more on the SQ side for us SQ guys ...this is a great amp/DSP..i wanted it for my wifes car but she also uses optical output on her HU and this DSP doesn't have optical input
Yeah unfortunately optical is reserved for the higher end units
Amazing video. The only problem with these micro amps is that they have low SN ratio and that means a lot of hissing noise.
Looks pretty solid and well worf da price! The Pro Audio guys say JBL stands for "Junk, but Loud", but I think they mainly make great products for car audio. Here's a fine example! Great video brotha Vega 🤙
I don’t know how home audio guys think with their pinkies so high in the air lol
Clearly those SPL guys never seen JBL arena X line or the 660gti but i bet they all run Skar Audio hahaha
Worf Speaks Klingon...... Live long and prosper Dereck 🖖🏽
@@HifiVega Thats how I turn up my 10 inch head unit. With my pinky out! 🤙🏽
Please dyno this amp
I run one of these in my 14 Ford explorer sport. Thing is amazing. It's loud, and clean. The software is better than the audison it replaced. In fact, I was going to repair the audison, lost a channel, but I don't even have to anymore. This thing is amazing.
The amp is a good value when it comes to its dsp features, including the expense of providing an usb stick. It is a good option if the goal is simply to mildly upgrade a stock system . With only 40 wpc on such a small and unfinned case, heat will definitely be an issue. There are few, if any, high quality drivers with recommended wattage that low so consequently the amp will be pushed hard to get louder volumes out of it with non stock speakers.
Great job explaining the dsp, a couple more like that and this old school guy might take the plunge into it.
Its designed to utilize JBL/Infinity speakers which are 2.5 ohms so getting more than 40 watts rms. The only drawback is needing a laptop to make any adjustments. It has multiple profiles you can save but you can only switch them from laptop.
It can also be used a line driver for larger amps... No heat issues running in a sealed saddlebag since it was released
Great video, the overview of the software is definitely going to help!! But random question hopefully you can help, We are trying to trouble shoot our install and I'm sure I know the answer but in order for the green LED power indicator to come on does the unit have to have power and signal going to it? Or would power just be enough for the Green LED to come on? We have good power and ground but the green LED does not turn on with just power and we have tried two different units. Thanks!
Much more compact than my old MS-8, I loved that thing. I ended up upgrading to a T1000x5ad with a DSR-1 but the JBL MS-8 served its purpose for many years
They definitely refined it over the years
Been.looking for something like this for my new car. To say the audio needs help is an understatement.
It’s perfect for factory upgrades
@@HifiVega good to hear, I bought a set of morel maximo ultras on black Friday and been waiting to put them until I have the right amp/dsp combo.
Excellent review thanks a mint 👍
Thanks for watching
@@HifiVega yes sir 👍
I have this and it’s wonderful I actually have its little brother the infinity dsp 4 channel version of this. I use both together and haver 14channels its great
Thanks! Had the Infinity model in mind, same software but more power and channels. Perfect.
This one is a solid improvement over that one for a $100
@@HifiVega Agreed. The control and software is worth the price. The added power is ideal for cabin speakers
Thank you HiFi as always great video audio tutorial commentary demo editing unbias testing
I love JBL, Infinity, Polk Audio
Always great value & quality products who haven't sold out to MaXXonics.
Thanks for watching!
What are the options for using a separate subwoofer amp and controlling with the DSP? Speaker level outputs from the dsp into the rca adapters into the amp?
That’s the only option you just need to make sure your sub amp can accept line level in.
@@HifiVega My amp only has RCA inputs. This DSP is supposed to come with speaker to rca adapters where you can connect channel 7-8 speaker outputs on the dsp and run them to rca inputs on another amp. I'm assuming the levels would need to be very low, as anything over over ~4 volts may over-drive the sub amp.
@@HifiVega Just wanted to update in case any one else was wondering. Using the speaker to RCA adapters, My DSP amp would go into protect with the gains (in the DSP) above a minimal level, and both sub1 and sub2 being used for each RCA from the head unit. I had to install a RCA Y-splitter on one of the speaker to RCA adapters, connecting both split RCA's to my bass amp, and sum the output from two sub input channels to one output in the input mixer. Problem solved.
@sumdood2035 hadn't thought of that. To clarify, you used one RCA adapter off of one channel, 7 or 8, into a splitter to the 2 RCA inputs of the subwoofer amp?
What settings on the DSP to get the level down?
Do you have to use all 8 channels? Can you power just 4 channels?
You can use as many or as few channels as you’d like, but none of them are bridgeable
They (harman) offer a 4 channel version under their Infinity brand with 4 x 25 watts plus a set of rca outputs. Similar dsp.
These are awesome. And priced perfectly
I agree
Solid little performer.
Fo sho
That's be a great little amp for my door speakers and I'd get a dsp. Not bad
Bonus!
5:58: Fun fact- You can measure in centimeters as well!
Freedom units tho! 😉
what kind of crossover filter it using ?
Been using this for nearly 2 years. The biggest problem that you will have is heat. It produces a lot of heat and if not installed in a ventilated area, it will almost always shut down.
This is good to know. Luckily I’ve got it installed in a well ventilated spot, but some folks might want to hide this away under a seat or something.
Its a common issue for class D amp
That has not been my experience in Louisiana heat....in a sealed saddlebag
whats the song at 9:04?
th-cam.com/video/q5NQqwP7Rxs/w-d-xo.html
@@HifiVega Thank you. That's a pretty badass track!
So this is a no go for my upgraded front 3 way ? Midrange can take 125rms and the woofers are about 60 and the tweeters are something around 30.
25 wpc is not a lot, but I’ve got this running my whole system and I’ve been fairly happy with the output
Looking to do an install on my 10th gen civic using the stock headunit. Upgrade to 50 rms kicker door speakers and kicker 10" all in one sub. Want to push the speakers a bit more with having more control over eq. See this model factory refurb for $300. Worth getting this or something else to support my needs?
This would be perfect for you
So it is great to drive a set of high sensitivity speakers ?
Got some focals that dont need allot of power so i was thinking about this unit.
For sure! I am running this amp currently and it has enough power to drive my speakers well
I've been trying to tell people about these, for cars that have heavily integrated OEM amp/HU with good speakers.
What would you recommend for a dsp that can push 2 12 rockford fosgate t1s2 and 100w rockford fosgate 6 1/2 mids and 40w rockford fosgate 3 1/2 highs? Amps are t400x4ad for my highs and mids and t1500-1bdcp for subwoofer if that matters
amzn.to/3nU3gld
amzn.to/3zGePPq
Man that's sweet. I was to do a DSP in my lightning. I wish it had more power and outputs
If power is a concern you can always just use this as a dsp and use the speakers outs to feed a compatible amp
I've liked jbl for a long time in the early 2000s had jbl mids n highs. They were great. Don't know how there new stuff is as for sound and quality
I purchased mine before any of these great views where available.... What a headache... thats all ! Great DSP
Once you get it figured out it’s a pretty straight forward set up, but initially it can be a pain lol.
Can you use channel 7 and 8 to add on bass amps?
Yes, you can and use the included bass knob to control those channels. Your bass amp will need to be able to accept line level in tho
I can’t figure out how to save my equalizer setting to the amp fully it sounds good after I edit it on the computer once I turn my car off the amp goes back to a default setting it makes it sound flat again with 24db slope on all speakers I can’t figure out why it’s doing that
Did you save your settings under a profile?
What if I have mine setup as ch1 FL WF, ch2 FL TW, for example. is there any way to link these?
Yea you can link channels 1&2, 3&4 so on
@@HifiVega Yeah I had to move them around and it's good now. I have one more problem, though. With both RCA's (with the included speaker level to RCA adapters) connected to my dedicated bass amp, at a certain moderate sound level the dsp amp goes into protect, the sound cuts out and comes back on 2-3 seconds later. If I back off the volume or the sub level it will stay playing. i thought maybe I was overdriving the amp via the RCA adapters. I had to cut the sub gain to -29dB in the JBL before it would stop going into protect at full clean volume, while I had a single RCA at -7dB without any problems. If I disconnect one of the rca's, it doesn't cut out. If I connect one or the other, it doesn't cut out. I'm at a loss. The other other variable is that there is still some paint remaining where the ground is connected. I'm wondering if my ground is not adequate.
I used sandpaper and got it thin but there is still some paint. The DSP was still showing 13.6v right before the audio would cut out.
My system consists of the JBL DSP , a SKAR RP-800.1D, and a Stinger 4GA CCA amp kit.
I picked up a cheap oscilloscope. I'll run it on the RCA adapters and make sure I'm not sending more than 6V or so to the amp.
What does the remote do? Mine does nothing
The remote controls channel 5 & 6, but you have to configure it in the software
Can it be used as a stand alone DSP?
Yes as long as your amps will accept speaker level input or have differential inputs
Jbl needs lil more respect when it comes to car audio. There amps always made numbers. They had pretty intresting budget and high end subs(gti) .there door speakers have always been pretty good.
Yeah but don't you think the more channels hooked up the less power per channel will happen. So the amp test is kinda moot if you don't test all channels simultaneously. just sayin'.
At this power level I think the power supply will still do ok, but yes this is why I typically tests everything with all channels driven.
Will it give me a sub channel out if I am connecting to a OEM 4ch high output head unit?
Ayy just noticed Bass Mekanik lol.
You should do the worlds best high end DSP...ill let you borrow my helix for the video 😂
LoL. While I only own 1 competitor, I can think of about 4 others to compare against... Could be a really interesting video. 😉
@@RAW_Reality Well zapco makes a great dsp... Mosconi has a good one but like Audison the operation to use the os sucks.... Minidsp is great .... But when it comes down to all around, helix is were its at and you can argue all day if you think alpine is your go too or audio dynamics makes a good one but Helix has set the bar for high end DSP and most competitors use helix
@@bennyblanco14 Somewhat ironically, i wasn't referring to any of the brands you listed, so it'd be a rather hard sell for you to claim anything is "best" when you're not even taking into account all the options... But I get it, domestic exposure only goes so far.
@@RAW_Reality Lol i ment no argument i was just placing my claims and used brands i am familiar with and used but dont get me wrong the DSP is just a tool 90% is the user and set-up but i am a huge helix supporter and tend to go back n forth with others who are lyal yo other brands...its all fun
@@bennyblanco14 LoL... It's all good, I'm all for a bit of banter. 😅 But yeah, getting things tuned in is up to the user, but having a nice unit to work with definitely helps out. Though I tend to look for value in my purchases, so "brand loyalty" isn't really something I concern myself with if something as good is more viable for the cost.
I just don't understand why a huge amp and a small amp can be about the same performance
👍👀👍
“This is not a Mickey Mouse program”!
Mr. HiFi Vega - if you would like some copyright free quality music, check out White Bat Audio. I listen to alot of their stuff all of the time. A "punch to the gut" bass heavy killer song, and one of my favorite is "Shin Godzilla". Truly a standout track!
I’ll look into it! I’m wary of using anything not available in the YT audio library because I’ve had even royalty free stuff get my videos demonetized
1k ratings on an amp are a joke...Push as easy frquency to maximize the wattage output. Same with 1k ratings on SPL of speakers...It may be the industry's way to rate their products but the numbers are way lower when running full frequency like real music is...Try that amp at 40hz bet the output isn't even close to the 1k rating.
Too expensive
current UK price is £450! around $585 🥸
Is it possible to bridge ch 5/6 and 7/8 for a dvc sub?
No channels are bridgable on this unfortunately
May be late to mention for OP, but 7/8 can be linked and set as sub channels. You can't bridge the channels, but I'm running a Kicker 2 ohm DVC Comp R 8 with each channel on one voicecoil, and it does a decent job. The sub is underpowered, but it's in a ported enclosure, so the output is decent. No problems.