I sure wish I had a test truck or two and a dyno at my disposal... To have a truck with a legitimate catch can run various motor oils at consistent engine load/test parameters to see if one produces more crank case vapor and residue would make for an interesting test. We need Lake Speed to run this for us... LOL. I appreciate you, Greg.
If you're satisfied that both catch can systems are effective, which system, in your opinion, is going to make maintenance in and around the engine less of a hassle? I see the hoses for the PPE system routed across half the engine bay, but the VSE can is plopped right down there in the middle. Which is more of a nuisance? Thanks.
Hello, just purchased a 2024 Serria Denali Ultimate 3.0l Diesel. what are the priority of changes should I work towards for this diesel? Maybe a video on a progressive build that works for daily driver...and light towing (jet skies and pondtoon boat). thanks
I went from catching near nothing to this, videos uploaded to show. Every engine will be different, some will show much greater results while others may show the same or less. let me know what you get out of yours !
If you live in the north with drastic temperature changes, it will be handy. I had a jlt catch can on my 6.2 and it filled up pretty quick in the winter.
Now that both the catch cans are available, do you think you could do a video on removing, cleaning, and reinstalling the factory charge air cooler? As always, keep up the great videos!
It's not hard. 4 hoses to remove, and 4 or 5 sensors to unplug. Then, 4 bolts hold the intercooler. I would recommend not removing it for cleaning. I cleaned mine, but ended up buying a new one anyways. I also bought replacement air/turbo hoses coming off of mine because I found a pinhole leak. Might as well replace them both at that point. The parts were $300 after shipping and tax. The intercooler is only $110 plus tax. That's cheap. Why waste your time with chemicals, and drying, and hoping you cleaned it well enough to make a difference, then make sure it's completely dry before installing??? I spent about 30 - 45 minutes cleaning, then waited a few hours of it drying in the sun. Not worth the headache for $110 plus tax.
So you've never caught anything when using Dexos D oil, even with two different C/C set ups. But then you switch to Amsoil, and now you caught something? Not a good advert for Amsoil.... right?
Don't think u can go by that at suck low mi and hrs. That was nothing for that many mi..We change the filter on bigger diesel engines at like 1500hr and u can see the oil half way down the paper filter. Goto a different machine and it'll show twice as much. We have machines with 13k hrs+ with no issues and use the cheap house brand oil. I know other companies that run only Brand oil, Shell, Mobil or Deere oil and have less hr machines that the catch filters are the same or more oily
What really chaps my ass is why does the aftermarket have to supply these things to us? For the price of these vehicles one would expect that if this could cause an issue they would be installed when the vehicle is built!
No, but on prior drains I was getting drips. So for my truck, this was a larger than normal result. Others have shown as high as half a court in 1000 miles.
Too many changes all going on at once IMHO to know exactly what is going on, what's working and what isn't. Was the increase in oil caught due to the PPE unit vs VSE or the Amsoil oil change... need to get baselines and then make different changes.
So it looks like you will spend about 1 dollar per drop of oil over the next 5 years of ownership doesn’t seem worth it but that’s just one man’s opinion
How so? The hose going back to the intake manifold was clean. Wouldn't that indicate that other than vapor, the oil and other stuff captured by the screen aren't fouling the intake?
@@highball7347maybe? But how about over 100k? Did you see video where the last truck had oil inside of the intake cooler and some fouling forming? Doesn’t sound like a great thing to allow to keep happening over the life of a truck. Saying they do “nothing” is factually inaccurate when oil being drained out and a return hose being clean demonstrate that there’s at a minimum, that amount of oil not fouling the intake. Perhaps it means less to you than others?
@@Meh-2023 to each his own. I’m not trying to crap on the guy. He provides great information and content that would otherwise never be tested. In my situation where reliability is THE most important factor, I can’t justify these aftermarket items. I’m pretty sure that big fancy charge air cooler has already caused some hiccups with the ECU. These aftermarket parts are not what you want when you are towing a travel trailer 1,500 miles away from home with a family of 4, in some of the most remote parts of the country. Stock might not be perfect but it’s hands down far more reliable. He is able to test these parts close to home and that’s a good option for him.
I sure wish I had a test truck or two and a dyno at my disposal... To have a truck with a legitimate catch can run various motor oils at consistent engine load/test parameters to see if one produces more crank case vapor and residue would make for an interesting test. We need Lake Speed to run this for us... LOL. I appreciate you, Greg.
My LZ0 and LS7 don’t seem to push much oil, but my last truck with the 5.3 LT based motor pushed a few ounces every 5k miles
Think i would install a ball vavle on that drain
So since you tried both ppe and vse, which would you recommend and why? I like how ppe’s can is hidden more but hate how their hose routing.
If you're satisfied that both catch can systems are effective, which system, in your opinion, is going to make maintenance in and around the engine less of a hassle? I see the hoses for the PPE system routed across half the engine bay, but the VSE can is plopped right down there in the middle. Which is more of a nuisance? Thanks.
I will do a detailed video on that in the very near future.
Hello, just purchased a 2024 Serria Denali Ultimate 3.0l Diesel. what are the priority of changes should I work towards for this diesel? Maybe a video on a progressive build that works for daily driver...and light towing (jet skies and pondtoon boat). thanks
If that's what it's catching, there's really no need for a catch can.
I installed one and if that's what I get out, it's coming back out.
I agree 100% ,but each to his own I guess
I went from catching near nothing to this, videos uploaded to show. Every engine will be different, some will show much greater results while others may show the same or less. let me know what you get out of yours !
@@DemonWorks Will do!
If you live in the north with drastic temperature changes, it will be handy. I had a jlt catch can on my 6.2 and it filled up pretty quick in the winter.
Now that both the catch cans are available, do you think you could do a video on removing, cleaning, and reinstalling the factory charge air cooler?
As always, keep up the great videos!
It's not hard. 4 hoses to remove, and 4 or 5 sensors to unplug. Then, 4 bolts hold the intercooler.
I would recommend not removing it for cleaning. I cleaned mine, but ended up buying a new one anyways. I also bought replacement air/turbo hoses coming off of mine because I found a pinhole leak. Might as well replace them both at that point. The parts were $300 after shipping and tax. The intercooler is only $110 plus tax. That's cheap. Why waste your time with chemicals, and drying, and hoping you cleaned it well enough to make a difference, then make sure it's completely dry before installing??? I spent about 30 - 45 minutes cleaning, then waited a few hours of it drying in the sun. Not worth the headache for $110 plus tax.
@@rustynail914 Thanks, I didn't realize the factory replacements were that cheap. It definitely sounds like the safer option to just replace it.
So which catch can is recommended?
Wait until the cold weather arrives. Bet you will get more.
Yeah, that water condensation will increase for sure.
So you've never caught anything when using Dexos D oil, even with two different C/C set ups. But then you switch to Amsoil, and now you caught something? Not a good advert for Amsoil.... right?
Don't think u can go by that at suck low mi and hrs. That was nothing for that many mi..We change the filter on bigger diesel engines at like 1500hr and u can see the oil half way down the paper filter. Goto a different machine and it'll show twice as much. We have machines with 13k hrs+ with no issues and use the cheap house brand oil. I know other companies that run only Brand oil, Shell, Mobil or Deere oil and have less hr machines that the catch filters are the same or more oily
What oil were you running during this time?
Amsoil
Does the intake make any noticeable difference in drivability, torque, hp, or does it just extend cooling capacity of air longer?
I don't understand the question.
It wont really affect anything unless it is tuned.
Were the initial 2000 miles with amsoil? And if not wonder if amsoil could be the problem?
@@RobVarley amsoil is the best oil on the market it’s not that lol
@@donmckenzie5027 there’s never anything wrong with questioning the quality of a product
All of the miles for this can have been on amsoil. The prior catch can was mostly hotshots.
@@RobVarley agreed
@@DemonWorks thanks! Keep up the good videos. You’re some of the only good content for these engines
What really chaps my ass is why does the aftermarket have to supply these things to us? For the price of these vehicles one would expect that if this could cause an issue they would be installed when the vehicle is built!
why no catch cans for the l5p 2500hd 's???????????
Don’t need it on the 6.6
@@caleblewis3463 all these newer engine push oil into the intake so it would be helpful.
I’m getting one, these are nice machines to not take care of.
Was this the first drain after your trip towing the enclosed trailer?
I drained it at 2000 miles after I towed (there is a video on it) this was drained 1000 miles of street driving afterwards.
Is that a large amount of oil?
No, but on prior drains I was getting drips. So for my truck, this was a larger than normal result. Others have shown as high as half a court in 1000 miles.
@@DemonWorks gotcha. I’m just trying to get a baseline. Thank you for the videos as always!
Too many changes all going on at once IMHO to know exactly what is going on, what's working and what isn't. Was the increase in oil caught due to the PPE unit vs VSE or the Amsoil oil change... need to get baselines and then make different changes.
So it looks like you will spend about 1 dollar per drop of oil over the next 5 years of ownership doesn’t seem worth it but that’s just one man’s opinion
You’re proving these are basically useless. lol.
How so? The hose going back to the intake manifold was clean. Wouldn't that indicate that other than vapor, the oil and other stuff captured by the screen aren't fouling the intake?
@@truraza the engine can easily handle a teaspoon of recirculating oil over a thousand miles.
@@highball7347maybe? But how about over 100k? Did you see video where the last truck had oil inside of the intake cooler and some fouling forming? Doesn’t sound like a great thing to allow to keep happening over the life of a truck. Saying they do “nothing” is factually inaccurate when oil being drained out and a return hose being clean demonstrate that there’s at a minimum, that amount of oil not fouling the intake. Perhaps it means less to you than others?
@@Meh-2023 to each his own.
I’m not trying to crap on the guy. He provides great information and content that would otherwise never be tested.
In my situation where reliability is THE most important factor, I can’t justify these aftermarket items.
I’m pretty sure that big fancy charge air cooler has already caused some hiccups with the ECU.
These aftermarket parts are not what you want when you are towing a travel trailer 1,500 miles away from home with a family of 4, in some of the most remote parts of the country.
Stock might not be perfect but it’s hands down far more reliable.
He is able to test these parts close to home and that’s a good option for him.