Been having the EXACT same issue with my rock slide as well and I just gave up put my G19 build away… UNTIL NOW lol just ordered a 20lb spring thanks man!!
THANK YOU VERY MUCH J A R G! You save me some serious time and aggravation! I had the EXACT issues you described here and the 20 LB spring cleared it right up!
@@4300blk ima try after work today, another issue is the slide lock , it doesn’t function , i have to push really hard to the point my fingers are red just for my slide to snap back with the slide lock and i watched a lot of vids but i’m probably doing something wrong you know the issue ?
I had some terrible creep on my 19 and thought it couldn't be the RSA since it was brand new and came with the slide BUT sure enough that was it. New rsa fixed it completely. Through a ZEV's trigger kit in it and now it runs like a dream! 600 rounds and no issues
And yeah if anyone’s slide gets stuck when chambering a round it’s probably your slide lock spring it’s not set all the way down I had to make sure mines was properly set on my pf940sc (glock 26) . I also recommend getting a oem recoil spring .
I had suspected this just by comparing racking the slide on a p80 vs Glock. The p80 felt like it was lacking power to get into battery. Thanks for helping me confirm that my gut was right.
If your engagement is way over or if your firing pin is so tight that a trigger pull is pushing your slide back a heavier spring is a bandaid to cover the problem. Figure out why your striker is tight. Get an armorers back plate and check you engagement. Maybe the inner diameter of the firing pin channel liner is off and the firing pin is draging. Johnny Glock has videos if you tube has not taken them down on all of this...
To anyone reading the comments looking for input: My slide creep issue WAS alleviated with the guide rod and spring which JARG recommended. HOWEVER, depending on how well your internal parts kit was made, you may also run into issues with the slide lock spring. In my case, with a PF940C and Brownells parts kit, the recoil spring rubbed against the slide lock spring while cycling, causing the slide lock to fall out. I was fortunate to test this and catch the issue before it resulted in a catastrophic malfunction on the range. Please rack your slide thoroughly after installing this recoil spring to ensure your slide lock is secure while cycling, as to avoid sending your slide flying downrange or any other potentially dangerous incident. If you find yourself having this issue, I recommend replacing your slide lock spring in addition to the recoil spring. Take care when building your guns everyone.
Have a glock build and the slide lock is not holding. As long as the gun is cocked, slide stay on. Pull trigger and the slide falls off....And yes the slide lock grove is pointed towards shooter, smooth towards danger zone....After a few rackings the slide lock creeps down.....Thanks.
The stock one. I believe the issue is, that it is a Giesle 80% and that the slide lock is not reaching up high enough to fully engage....If you wedge it it stays put, but that is not right. @@JARG
My SCT frame with and Aimsurplus slide was doing this same thing. Mine turned out to be the safety plunger spring. I used some off brand one and the spring wasn't working correctly causing the plunger to drag a little. I replaced it with a Zev one and have had no issues coming forward after 500 rounds.
Tip to narrow this down to know if that is the issue is remove the safety plunger mine still rocks backwards and don’t go fully into battery with it removed
I have this exact same issue (both the return to battery and light primer strike) with my 17 after I got a Zev slide to fit a optic on. I'm definitely gonna get that recoil spring, and see if it fixes it!
Dude please. This is not a fix. Ignoring the problem can lead to a dangerous break as the parts weaken everytime they collide. There is some mis alignment or an out of spec piece that is interfering. Using a heavier spring is just ignoring the issue while it keep gouging, chipping, etc the moving parts. Dont give up, you can find it and lots of places to get help in rl or online. I dont over worry(just over explain), most likely it just stops working, but shattering the slide or other fails sending bits flying fast is possible.
@@terrychant4365 Thanks for letting me know. I'll keep watching it. The problem I have is with my firing pin safety getting caught on the trigger bar, and it goes basically all the way back to battery, except for the last 1/8." I used my OEM parts and a parts kit I got with the slide in order to see if it was the parts, and they both had the same result.
@@will2777 the safety plunger? Really q forum with pics would be your best help, but I can make suggestions. Make sure spring fully seated into plunger. Firing pin,, channel liner qnd extracter also fully seated correctly. When you say oem, do you mean glock or psa? I see alot of people with trigger bar and connecter issues with psa stock parts and glock triggers into psa frames. Their distancing is slightly different, lots of bars flexing and rubbing when they shouldnt;anything like this possible? Really check the range of movement on the trigger bar, maybe bring the part that hits safety plunger down a hair to help clear the plunger(especially is heavy recoil spring helped). If you're positive it's that plunger and t bar, then there's gotta be a way to away that little more clearance, which would solve the problem better than slamming tbar into plunger harder, making marks that'll add up over time and maybe bend trigger bar more.
@@terrychant4365 Oh yeah, the safety plunger. I always referred to it as firing pin safety. I used my OEM Glock parts from my original Glock slide when I tried to get a better result. I'll look into that on the bar.
@@will2777you can narrow the problem down to not being the safety plunger simply remove it and test out the trigger see if it’s still rocking back if it is it’s likely the striker spring and recoil spring it could also be a out of spec slide or barrel if it’s not going fully into battery
Check your connector as well. If it's adjusted too far out it won't go all the way into battery. That's happened to me several times. Simple 5 minute fix.
@Steve K You have to bend the connector in slightly. You have to be careful not to bend it in too much though or you'll have a dead trigger. Look up videos on how to properly adjust a trigger connector. Also, once you put a few hundred rounds through it, it'll break it in nice.
Problem with heavier spring is that you might not have the slide go back fully when cycling. Especially if using a comp. Mine needs a 15lb spring to cycle with a comp
I just got the Glock 17… piece of crap recoil spring. It does go into battery. Had the same problem with my 43, ordered a stronger recoil spring and , I got it! Hopefully this is the same solution with the 17. I think it’ll work, just makes sense. No polymer is in the way, but the spring is fishy
@@JARG hey so it seems like this new recoil spring didn’t work… I’m thinking I need to just order all new OEM parts , the ones in the are from Polymer 80, I’ve heard polymer 80 parts are shit
I use 5.5lb striker springs in all my Glocks. Never had a problem with light strikes, even cci primers. I thought maybe my original springs were worn and felt lighter than my generic recoil springs for my builds. Now I see your video and I’m wondering if they aren’t already heavier than stock springs. My g48 brownells slide was creeping forward a tad when I’d pull the trigger. Didn’t have any failures yet, but noticed it’s not doing it anymore. I did notice if I put brownells slide on my real g43 frame the trigger feels much heavier. I think I need to look at the extractor and safety plunger. Nice slides though.
I am dealing with the EXACT same problem. I just ordered a 20lb spring, and if it turn out that was the problem I'll be as irritated as i am elated over the simple fix. Ive learned there's quite a bit more to a p80 build than drilling and milling.
I have mitigated all thease p80 issues by correct fitment of parts regardless of spring tension a properly built p80 will go into battery and work just fine . After market parts and the p80 parts are not perfect at all .
Yes! Increasing recoil spring strength might be good to know for an emergency, but for your personal gun you need to find the obstruction and fix it. Even a super lite 11 lb recoil spring should overcome the 6 lb trigger spring. This here as a fix, is just kicking the cam down the road of broken parts and might turn into critical failure.
@terrychant4365 mine ran 150 round great no issue S or anything then all of a sudden it would start not going into battery and stove pipeing out of nowhere so I'm trying to find the fix idk it might be the ammo I'm not shure tho
@terrychant4365 maybe but I have a zev upper parts kit and a zev lower parts kit then just some off brand slide and barrel but it would be nice to get it running flawlessly again but gotta just keep trying I guess
@@jaydenhoward5447 I'm a giant retard. idk what the hell I was answering last night, but it dont look like your comment was it. I'm sorry. check for rub marks and other signs of contact on your slide. feel the contact surfaces for burrs. barrel and guide rod must be seated correctly without build up causeing something to sit a little off. throughly cleran out any build up, especially check areas you oiled cause its a magnet for debris. even being just few mm off can make contact or reduce gas pressure. assuming this isn't limp wristing or weak loads, stovepipe usually indicates slide is returning too soon/fast or not getting enough force into the ejection on way back when it hit ejector.
I dont wanna hide in replies, so I'll address you directly JARG. Do you understand this is not really a fix for the problem, and can actually be quite dangerous if certain parts are impacting the slide at high speed and power? For example, if the trigger housing or rear rails are mis aligned enough to catch the slide causing that oob or snag, you will weaken the slide and eventually it'll break. Sometimes if slide is brittle enough, it can shatter quite a bit of the slide and send sharp shards flying outward fast af. I get the idea of the content and I like it. Regular dude that don't have all the knowledge and every tool explaining these things for us with similar lives. even use my own diy "roll pin punches" made from common nails cause they work fine. This is a dangerous way to ignore the real problem though buddy. Please, give it some serious thought. Good luck in the future bud.
I respect all opinions. If you have fixes, please share. Start a channel… I have helped thousands but always looking to fine tune. I don’t have every answer but I have found solutions to unfixable problems. If you have better. Please video and send
@@JARG look i dont wanna dog on you. I know this takes work, and your goal is a good one. My thing is, this is dangerous. The first issue about slide rocking back on trigger pull is your firing pin snagging i think. You don't need a 20lb recoil spring to overcome the striker spring thats less than half that power. For that issue you likely are getting snagged in the liner, either its deformed, missing, not seated fully, or the cups holding striker spring could have burs. Replacing liner and maybe striker cups or polishing them of they rough should fix that. The trickier one is alignment issues not going fully into battery. Lots of causes as you said like; trigger bar and connector rubbing where they shouldnt or ejector bent over too far hitting center ridge or safety plunger. Trigger housing could have some plastic edges catching the connector or crucifix. The one that made more react like this, and happen to be fixing atm, is the rails not bent correctly. Not only can your slide feel tight or sloppy loose from rails being off, but if your rear gets a few tenths to a side your back plate or the slide can impact the trigger housing, that plastic piece sticking up that your back plate has holes for is where im catching on this one. Its hanging like an 1/16th inch back out of battery like you described, then falls into battery with little disruption. Re alignment just needs to be done carefully. Its straight forward ya just bend rails a tab and there's some vids out there for reference. So there ya go. Several fixes for possible problems that would give the symptoms you describe. Just overpowering the obstruction might grind the problem away, but you also could break something, possibly dangerously.
I had problems with my p80 g19 not going into battery all the way and had light primer strikes I changed the recoil spring for a 15lb tungsten guide rod from the Glock store and I haven't had a problem since it'll run anything I put through it with no malfunctions
20lb is a fine fix but if you shoot light ammo you may not work well. The striker spring vs the recoil plays alot. Do you run a 6lb striker or a 5.5 or a 4. Etc….
Hey watched your video I tried to do the plunger trick for issue. After watching your video going to try a 20lb spring but the issue I have is no rounds in will go into battery. If I use snap caps or rounds and range will not go into battery. If I I lightly pull trigger but not all way it will rock forward and go into battery, and fire. My question think it is spring or where look. Gst9 mod1 one is the poly build.
Got a p80 g23 .40 cal and having failure to feed problems bullet gets stuck on the ramp shoots and ejects fine just wont load another bullet tried 2 different ammo types... appreciate if you could help..i subscribed to your channel also lol
How you doing brother, I was wondering if I could get some advice on my p80 build. I’m having this issue where when I try to pull the slide back, it only moves about a centimeter and it gets stuck and I then I have to really yank on it to get the slide to move back. After I rack it it does move forward without an issue. Have any knowledge?
There’s still a problem. Adding a very heavy recoil spring didn’t fix it. It just converted it up. You should be able to run a 13# in it without issue.
@@JARG just saying you didn’t fix it you just converted it up. If you can’t run it with the factory spring it’s not fixed. You might be able to run it long enough to smooth it out enough to go back to it later. Just fixed up a 2011 for a guy that was running a 18# to make it work. It runs a 10 now.
I’m Gunna try this. I’ve been having the exact same problem with my Glock 26. I put a gen 3 slide on a Gen 5 frame and have a 16lb stainless steel recoil spring. Not a dual but a single. Would you recommend a 20lb spring because slide is shorter? Or that doesn’t make a difference and I should go for the 20lb spring?
I got the 20lb recoil spring in. it still has the slide creep and getting light primer strikes. It doesn't do it as much now but it's still the issue. I also changed the firing pin spring to a factory glock one. That didn't Solve the issue either. Should I try a heavier recoil spring like a 22lb?
The light strikes are definitely due to slide creep. Example: if the firing pin spring was not even in and the shark fin was pressing against another part of the slide it would creep back. Possibly the angle of your fin is causing it to push back on your safety plunger instead of pushing it to the rear. See my video on #2 problem of P80. In same playlist
I found this video when I put the issue in the search bar, but, since my barrel is ported, will I have issues with lower grains such as 115 & 124's since I'm using such a heavy spring weight?
@@JARG but that's the point of my question. If my slide won't go into battery after attempting to chamber a round just by racking the slide back, I'll more then likely need a heavier spring, such as a 20 pounder, but will that 20 pounder allow me to shoot the light bullet weights, or will I have to stick with the heavier ammo?
I watched your video and ordered the 20lbs recoil spring and it fixed the issue of not going into battery, but I’m still gettin light primer strikes. Do I need a different recoil spring and if so what poundage would you recommend
@@EpicCheese765 this is for a G19 www.ebay.com/itm/362382135675?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=gGew-4skRna&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=_4pUIeHaSOu&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
I got the same problem with the g20 version, slide not going all the way forward back into battery, i sold the slide, still got the frame, i wonder if it was the rod spring,?
What exactly is happening? If slide does not close then you need a stronger recoil spring. But a stove pipe is normally a weak grip or too strong of a recoil spring. What striker spring do you use?
@JARG okay, it went from firing flawlessly. The first 140 rounds to almost every shot is a stove pipe, or it won't fully go into battery but I use a zev striker spring pro. Do you know a fix for that at all?
I'm not having light primer strikes I'm having offset primer strikes instead of in the center some of them are going up on the very edge this is happening with both Steelcase and Brass casing any advice I've ordered a factory recoil spring it's got a plastic Glock recoil guide rod in spring in it
@@JARG yes sir I did that I took it completely apart checked everything like I said everything's cleaned the for the frame and slide made I was sure to leave that up good I bought this PSA dagger used at a pawn shop a couple of weeks ago and I'm just now started having the issues like I said someone has put a Glock guide spring and guide rod the black plastic one and they come factory with a stainless steel one so I figured probably what's in it might be wore out I've got another one ordered was just curious if you thought maybe that might take care of it
@@JARG okay so I ordered a replacement guide rod from Palmetto State it was like 10 bucks plus shipping of course and the problem is cured so a high strike on the primer now with me it was between 1:00 and 3 Rounds and a 15 round magazine could possibly be fixed with a replaced guide rod considering about this pistol at a pawn shop and it had a Glock guide rod spring in it I would say the same thing could be possible for Glocks or any Glock clone pistols such as the PSA dagger
@@JARG yea there are different variables and tolerances from each part maker so the solution to a problem can be different for different peoples' experiences. Good video though. We need more of our types on TH-cam. Guntubers 💥🔫
Hey my take down spring on my p80 g19 isn't sitting flush?? Mind you I bought some cheap eBay lower kit. Also isn't resetting trigger. What the best brand lower kit to buy
I would say any reputable site or commercial site like Optics Planet or Midway USA would have quality kits. I have bought cheap parts on eBay to test but not a good idea
I have an issue with my plunger extractor, it’s completely stuck inside the slide I pulled apart my slide to clean it and my plunger wouldn’t move. Any recommendations? Tips on how to remove it?
Hi ik working on a new geileser and my barrel isn’t locking up with my slide completely while on the frame but it seats in the slide perfectly while off of the frame any advice ?
hey man, i'm having an issue with my trigger. it's super hard to pull and sometimes when i pull it all the way back as hard as i can it won't fire. (when i'm dry fire testing.) but the trigger resets just fine but it's super hard to pull and when it does fire it's a super loud click.
Post a video on your channel and show me. Also show me the trigger out of weapon. Maybe pre travel adjustments on back of trigger or cross angle is too high
@@JARG jus posted em and sent both links. sorry if it's something obvious and stupid ima complete noob in the p80 world and jus building shit period so any help is appreciated lol
@@JARG LoL I know that, but you can still drop your slide on an empty mag when you press your slide stop… what the slide is not supposed to do, is get hung up on the mag follower when you push your slide stop down.
So what you're actually saying is instead of buying a Tesla? I should have just bought a Toyota. I am not a Glock fan. But I did get my hands-on g 19. G3 OD green at 350. P80 was 500. I have not put any custom parts to make it work. Is would anybody actually carry one of these for self defense.
@JARG in my city I see people buy them left and right. I see that you understand that it's a shoot for fun or practicing gun. 500 is a lot to pay. And they only cost 250 to build. Enjoy and be careful.
@JARG it still have the slide creep and getting light primer hits. It doesn't do it as much now but it's still an issue. I also changed the firing pin spring to a factory glock one. That didn't Solve the issue either. Should I try a heavier recoil spring like a 22lb?
I have a problem with my p80 19 ss slide I think it’s the firing pin when I rack it back without the magazine everything works.Fine but when I put the magazine in the slide won’t go into battery and then the firing pin pushes back (not forward) and then gets stuck and locks. Then I have to hit the firing pin forward for it to unlock. Almost like its stuck on something
Sorry missed your question. Yes your mag likely. Rounds are pressing your slide stop. If more than one mag, you need to modify your slide stop so that rounds don’t touch but the follower still presses up on last round
Just made my p80 g17 and when I put the slide on it only goes into battery if I let the slide fall hard after racking it. If I pull the slide a lil back then let go it never goes into battery and gets stuck like a half inch from the slide going all the way. And when I hold the trigger down then rack the slide it’s like my trigger gets stuck back for a few racks and won’t go into battery that way either. Any advice?
i’ll send you $100 to make a video on how to fix my slide it keeps locking back every time i rack it, and i have to hit the back to make it charge forward
Help. My PSf940SC One I’ll put the 26 upper on everything works flawless I updated the recoil spring also but when I put the 27 upper on my trigger slips. I’ll pull the trigger keep my finger on the trigger holding it down and I’ll rack it and the trigger will slip off the connector It also looks like the slide can go on a Couple centimeters the left side of the Back plate sticks out so that would be the back of the trigger shoe on the 26 it’s flush. Yes I’m using all OEM internals but I upgraded all recoil springs stainless steel. I even changed the ejector. What would cause this the 26 Upper Works flawless passes drug test. The 27 upper on the same SC lower the trigger slips your hold it down racket and it’ll sound like you just pulled the trigger help help help help
@@JARG OK when I put on the slide 27 it’s not on all the way it’s off by two or 3 cm it’s not flush with the back of the trigger shoe and back plate. It fires Sometimes it doesn’t go back into battery the trigger is still back in the slide didn’t go forward but if I give it a little tap or shake the slide will go back into battery but Trigger dead also will fire auto. I put my 26 slide on and have no problems it runs flawless
I have a similar issue where the slide is stuck and hard to slide back or not at all. I have to Slightly have to push the barrel down in order to slide back to eject the round. Is their a way to send u a video
Should my slide come off after I took the mag out and cock and squeeze the trigger,the slide slides forward and comes off without me having to push the take down spring,and then when the mag is in and I cock it I can push the slide forward like half a inch,is this normal?
all well and good until you have a gun with a threaded barrel for suppressors and find the recoil spring just makes it harder for the slide to go all the way back for proper ejection. trim down and get that spring channel on your frame super FLUSH and uniform. make sure that that NOTHING is catching, let alone rubbing the recoil spring in that frame. that way even a 13lb spring can function without issue. getting a heavier spring just makes it work with brute force rather than correctly.
Bought a 20lb spring and it instantly fixed all my issues. Thank You!
Any problems with it at all like excessive wear or anything. And what ammo do you use with that spring?
My 20lb spring did not fix issue
@@joshyblaze7366your striker spring is probably way to strong I’d recommend oem or competition spring
Been having the EXACT same issue with my rock slide as well and I just gave up put my G19 build away… UNTIL NOW lol just ordered a 20lb spring thanks man!!
Let me know. If works like and sub
I found that if you file down and soften the sharp edges on the metal frame slide parts and polish them, you don't need that 20lb spring.
Glad worked for you
Recently started having these exact symptoms, will try the spring. Thanks for the help.
My guy you deserve more recognition
That is what I tell my wife haha
This should help your light stikes
Your a life saver I was so worried , all I did was listen to you about the 20 pound spring and it’s perfect now thank you so much man
What ammo do you use? For that heavy of a spring
Any
Your solution was the fix, Thank you so much! changed the recoil spring and the problems went away, THANK YOU!
THANK YOU VERY MUCH J A R G! You save me some serious time and aggravation! I had the EXACT issues you described here and the 20 LB spring cleared it right up!
Have a sar9 and it wasn’t going fully into battery thank you for helping me out
@@TTE.Heretic I’m here to help. Like and Subscribe
I built 2 and had the same problem with the aftermarket spring. Change them to OEM Glock and problem solved.
This issue is a little deeper due to parts tolerances
To just confirm , is this the same solution for when I dry fire and the slide and either moves or just falls right off sometimes?
@@nawfdallass your locking block is on incorrect take it out and switch it around
@@4300blk ima try after work today, another issue is the slide lock , it doesn’t function , i have to push really hard to the point my fingers are red just for my slide to snap back with the slide lock and i watched a lot of vids but i’m probably doing something wrong you know the issue ?
@@4300blk still having the same issue
I had a similar issue and 147 grain or plus p ammo also makes the slide cycle properly. Brand new build I think it just needs to be broken in too.
That is partially correct
Thank you. I just ordered the springs now. I've been trying to figure out how to fix this issue.
Thank you! I just got my od green glock 19 p80 , and it’s failing to lock in battery, I was literally about to spend $400 on a OEM slide
I had some terrible creep on my 19 and thought it couldn't be the RSA since it was brand new and came with the slide BUT sure enough that was it. New rsa fixed it completely. Through a ZEV's trigger kit in it and now it runs like a dream! 600 rounds and no issues
Glad to hear. Be safe
And yeah if anyone’s slide gets stuck when chambering a round it’s probably your slide lock spring it’s not set all the way down I had to make sure mines was properly set on my pf940sc (glock 26) . I also recommend getting a oem recoil spring .
God bless you. I never woulda guessed recoil spring and didn’t even notice the upper I bought came with 2 different ones.
How do u know how much lbs is ur spring because my friend just gave me his and he got it and doesn’t know either
I have one that looks just like the factory one he was talking about in the video that has problems but idk how much lbs that is
I have no clue buddy. I just know one works and one didn’t.
Thank you JARG. I have 2 new builds and both were having this issue. You saved me some frustration. Much appreciated.
Like Sub watch other vids
I had suspected this just by comparing racking the slide on a p80 vs Glock. The p80 felt like it was lacking power to get into battery. Thanks for helping me confirm that my gut was right.
My 20lb spring came in the mail today and WOW! Sooooo much better. I’m glad I found this video. TY
@@Imakebootysclap Where did you order it from?
?
If your engagement is way over or if your firing pin is so tight that a trigger pull is pushing your slide back a heavier spring is a bandaid to cover the problem. Figure out why your striker is tight. Get an armorers back plate and check you engagement. Maybe the inner diameter of the firing pin channel liner is off and the firing pin is draging. Johnny Glock has videos if you tube has not taken them down on all of this...
Sir that was about 10 steps ago for me
To anyone reading the comments looking for input: My slide creep issue WAS alleviated with the guide rod and spring which JARG recommended. HOWEVER, depending on how well your internal parts kit was made, you may also run into issues with the slide lock spring.
In my case, with a PF940C and Brownells parts kit, the recoil spring rubbed against the slide lock spring while cycling, causing the slide lock to fall out. I was fortunate to test this and catch the issue before it resulted in a catastrophic malfunction on the range. Please rack your slide thoroughly after installing this recoil spring to ensure your slide lock is secure while cycling, as to avoid sending your slide flying downrange or any other potentially dangerous incident. If you find yourself having this issue, I recommend replacing your slide lock spring in addition to the recoil spring. Take care when building your guns everyone.
Thank you sir!! Life saver! Perfect video! Detailed, to the point, and elaborated at the end
Have a glock build and the slide lock is not holding. As long as the gun is cocked, slide stay on. Pull trigger and the slide falls off....And yes the slide lock grove is pointed towards shooter, smooth towards danger zone....After a few rackings the slide lock creeps down.....Thanks.
What recoil spring are you using?
The stock one. I believe the issue is, that it is a Giesle 80% and that the slide lock is not reaching up high enough to fully engage....If you wedge it it stays put, but that is not right.
@@JARG
My SCT frame with and Aimsurplus slide was doing this same thing. Mine turned out to be the safety plunger spring. I used some off brand one and the spring wasn't working correctly causing the plunger to drag a little. I replaced it with a Zev one and have had no issues coming forward after 500 rounds.
Sounds like my video of #2 most common problem
Tip to narrow this down to know if that is the issue is remove the safety plunger mine still rocks backwards and don’t go fully into battery with it removed
I have this exact same issue (both the return to battery and light primer strike) with my 17 after I got a Zev slide to fit a optic on. I'm definitely gonna get that recoil spring, and see if it fixes it!
Dude please. This is not a fix. Ignoring the problem can lead to a dangerous break as the parts weaken everytime they collide. There is some mis alignment or an out of spec piece that is interfering. Using a heavier spring is just ignoring the issue while it keep gouging, chipping, etc the moving parts. Dont give up, you can find it and lots of places to get help in rl or online. I dont over worry(just over explain), most likely it just stops working, but shattering the slide or other fails sending bits flying fast is possible.
@@terrychant4365 Thanks for letting me know. I'll keep watching it. The problem I have is with my firing pin safety getting caught on the trigger bar, and it goes basically all the way back to battery, except for the last 1/8." I used my OEM parts and a parts kit I got with the slide in order to see if it was the parts, and they both had the same result.
@@will2777 the safety plunger? Really q forum with pics would be your best help, but I can make suggestions. Make sure spring fully seated into plunger. Firing pin,, channel liner qnd extracter also fully seated correctly.
When you say oem, do you mean glock or psa? I see alot of people with trigger bar and connecter issues with psa stock parts and glock triggers into psa frames. Their distancing is slightly different, lots of bars flexing and rubbing when they shouldnt;anything like this possible? Really check the range of movement on the trigger bar, maybe bring the part that hits safety plunger down a hair to help clear the plunger(especially is heavy recoil spring helped). If you're positive it's that plunger and t bar, then there's gotta be a way to away that little more clearance, which would solve the problem better than slamming tbar into plunger harder, making marks that'll add up over time and maybe bend trigger bar more.
@@terrychant4365 Oh yeah, the safety plunger. I always referred to it as firing pin safety. I used my OEM Glock parts from my original Glock slide when I tried to get a better result.
I'll look into that on the bar.
@@will2777you can narrow the problem down to not being the safety plunger simply remove it and test out the trigger see if it’s still rocking back if it is it’s likely the striker spring and recoil spring it could also be a out of spec slide or barrel if it’s not going fully into battery
Check your connector as well. If it's adjusted too far out it won't go all the way into battery. That's happened to me several times. Simple 5 minute fix.
It can happen.
What is the fix?
@Steve K You have to bend the connector in slightly. You have to be careful not to bend it in too much though or you'll have a dead trigger. Look up videos on how to properly adjust a trigger connector. Also, once you put a few hundred rounds through it, it'll break it in nice.
I got a milled brownells slide on a glock 17. It's not a p80. But it's not going all the way into battery. I'll try a heavier spring. Nice video 👌
Thanks sub and share
I had the same thing happening, and I had to polish the rails, front and rear
My dagger slide is doing this on my p80. Using factory dagger recoil spring. Might have to check this out.
Exact same problem and same solution. Had to convert the gen 4 spring to a single coil spring
Thanks for the video had the exact same issue. Ordered and new guide rod and spring keeping my fingers crossed 🤞
Did it work out?
@@italianrelic Yes! works great now. Dropped the spring down to an 18# to run a compensator.
Problem with heavier spring is that you might not have the slide go back fully when cycling. Especially if using a comp.
Mine needs a 15lb spring to cycle with a comp
Never been problem for me
@@JARGp80 940c? With comp and optic?
@@alecubudulecuwell thats just common sense with a comp it negates the gasses so it has less recoil its literally the point of a conp
That's exactly my issue saved my ass from a major headache
Like and sub then Sir
Thanks JARG! I'll be buying one tonight! 👍🏼👍🏼
Thank you!! VERY HELPFUL!! DEFINITELY A 2FER. LIGHT PRIMER STRIKE ALSO!!! SOLVED!!
Like, subscribe, and watch more
thanks for the heads-up on problems
Thanks was having issues on a p80ss with slide creep and trigger not resetting
Like and subscribe
i like this guy he know his stuff
I just got the Glock 17… piece of crap recoil spring. It does go into battery. Had the same problem with my 43, ordered a stronger recoil spring and , I got it! Hopefully this is the same solution with the 17. I think it’ll work, just makes sense. No polymer is in the way, but the spring is fishy
It will work!
@@JARG hey so it seems like this new recoil spring didn’t work… I’m thinking I need to just order all new OEM parts , the ones in the are from Polymer 80, I’ve heard polymer 80 parts are shit
I use 5.5lb striker springs in all my Glocks. Never had a problem with light strikes, even cci primers. I thought maybe my original springs were worn and felt lighter than my generic recoil springs for my builds. Now I see your video and I’m wondering if they aren’t already heavier than stock springs. My g48 brownells slide was creeping forward a tad when I’d pull the trigger. Didn’t have any failures yet, but noticed it’s not doing it anymore. I did notice if I put brownells slide on my real g43 frame the trigger feels much heavier. I think I need to look at the extractor and safety plunger. Nice slides though.
Stock glock striker springs are 5.5 pounds…
@@TheColesjeff12 yup my bad. I meant 5lb. Wolff 5lb
I am dealing with the EXACT same problem. I just ordered a 20lb spring, and if it turn out that was the problem I'll be as irritated as i am elated over the simple fix. Ive learned there's quite a bit more to a p80 build than drilling and milling.
Did it work?
@@JARG I'm waiting on the spring to arrive.
@@punksnotdeaditsconservativ1693 let me know if it worked. I have the same problem
@@punksnotdeaditsconservativ1693did it work
Did it work ??
Worked! Thank you so much
I have mitigated all thease p80 issues by correct fitment of parts regardless of spring tension a properly built p80 will go into battery and work just fine . After market parts and the p80 parts are not perfect at all .
Yes! Increasing recoil spring strength might be good to know for an emergency, but for your personal gun you need to find the obstruction and fix it. Even a super lite 11 lb recoil spring should overcome the 6 lb trigger spring. This here as a fix, is just kicking the cam down the road of broken parts and might turn into critical failure.
@terrychant4365 mine ran 150 round great no issue
S or anything then all of a sudden it would start not going into battery and stove pipeing out of nowhere so I'm trying to find the fix idk it might be the ammo I'm not shure tho
@terrychant4365 maybe but I have a zev upper parts kit and a zev lower parts kit then just some off brand slide and barrel but it would be nice to get it running flawlessly again but gotta just keep trying I guess
@@jaydenhoward5447 I'm a giant retard. idk what the hell I was answering last night, but it dont look like your comment was it. I'm sorry.
check for rub marks and other signs of contact on your slide. feel the contact surfaces for burrs. barrel and guide rod must be seated correctly without build up causeing something to sit a little off. throughly cleran out any build up, especially check areas you oiled cause its a magnet for debris. even being just few mm off can make contact or reduce gas pressure. assuming this isn't limp wristing or weak loads, stovepipe usually indicates slide is returning too soon/fast or not getting enough force into the ejection on way back when it hit ejector.
When I put a 20 lb spring in mine it was to much to cycle open all the way
You need to cycle it a bunch by hand and wear in the slide
I dont wanna hide in replies, so I'll address you directly JARG. Do you understand this is not really a fix for the problem, and can actually be quite dangerous if certain parts are impacting the slide at high speed and power?
For example, if the trigger housing or rear rails are mis aligned enough to catch the slide causing that oob or snag, you will weaken the slide and eventually it'll break. Sometimes if slide is brittle enough, it can shatter quite a bit of the slide and send sharp shards flying outward fast af.
I get the idea of the content and I like it. Regular dude that don't have all the knowledge and every tool explaining these things for us with similar lives. even use my own diy "roll pin punches" made from common nails cause they work fine. This is a dangerous way to ignore the real problem though buddy. Please, give it some serious thought.
Good luck in the future bud.
I respect all opinions. If you have fixes, please share. Start a channel… I have helped thousands but always looking to fine tune. I don’t have every answer but I have found solutions to unfixable problems. If you have better. Please video and send
@@JARG look i dont wanna dog on you. I know this takes work, and your goal is a good one. My thing is, this is dangerous.
The first issue about slide rocking back on trigger pull is your firing pin snagging i think. You don't need a 20lb recoil spring to overcome the striker spring thats less than half that power. For that issue you likely are getting snagged in the liner, either its deformed, missing, not seated fully, or the cups holding striker spring could have burs. Replacing liner and maybe striker cups or polishing them of they rough should fix that.
The trickier one is alignment issues not going fully into battery. Lots of causes as you said like; trigger bar and connector rubbing where they shouldnt or ejector bent over too far hitting center ridge or safety plunger.
Trigger housing could have some plastic edges catching the connector or crucifix.
The one that made more react like this, and happen to be fixing atm, is the rails not bent correctly. Not only can your slide feel tight or sloppy loose from rails being off, but if your rear gets a few tenths to a side your back plate or the slide can impact the trigger housing, that plastic piece sticking up that your back plate has holes for is where im catching on this one. Its hanging like an 1/16th inch back out of battery like you described, then falls into battery with little disruption. Re alignment just needs to be done carefully. Its straight forward ya just bend rails a tab and there's some vids out there for reference.
So there ya go. Several fixes for possible problems that would give the symptoms you describe. Just overpowering the obstruction might grind the problem away, but you also could break something, possibly dangerously.
I had problems with my p80 g19 not going into battery all the way and had light primer strikes I changed the recoil spring for a 15lb tungsten guide rod from the Glock store and I haven't had a problem since it'll run anything I put through it with no malfunctions
Yeah I think I should go lighter because I only get that when my gun is shooting and it never does that when it’s empty.
20lb is a fine fix but if you shoot light ammo you may not work well. The striker spring vs the recoil plays alot. Do you run a 6lb striker or a 5.5 or a 4. Etc….
Standard. The 20lbs spring is also help go into battery. These parts are not married up well.
Hey watched your video I tried to do the plunger trick for issue. After watching your video going to try a 20lb spring but the issue I have is no rounds in will go into battery. If I use snap caps or rounds and range will not go into battery. If I I lightly pull trigger but not all way it will rock forward and go into battery, and fire. My question think it is spring or where look. Gst9 mod1 one is the poly build.
Yes you need 20lbs spring
This is great. Thank you. Do you have the link?
www.ebay.com/itm/362382135675?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=gGew-4skRna&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=_4pUIeHaSOu&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Got a p80 g23 .40 cal and having failure to feed problems bullet gets stuck on the ramp shoots and ejects fine just wont load another bullet tried 2 different ammo types... appreciate if you could help..i subscribed to your channel also lol
Check my P80 playlist. The #2 problem video is on feed issues
My Glock is firing two round on one trigger pull , eventually it jams … what’s your advice?
Very beautiful gun! thank you
Like, Sub, and watch more
Yea I’m taking this route
Smart man then
Can you do “how to fix a feeing issue on you p80” how to get them to stop jamming
Feeling. What context?
Jamming For what type of failure?
@@JARG I think he means feeding problems
How you doing brother, I was wondering if I could get some advice on my p80 build. I’m having this issue where when I try to pull the slide back, it only moves about a centimeter and it gets stuck and I then I have to really yank on it to get the slide to move back. After I rack it it does move forward without an issue. Have any knowledge?
It’s your barrel block. You either have the wrong gen barrel or just a thick block. Let me guess, is the the upper front part of the block with wear
Where did you get the FDE frame parts? I have an FDE P80 and want matching lower parts but can't find them. All kinds of other colors, but not FDE.
I truly don’t remember. It was the first time I ever did a P80. Was getting stuff from different places. Just messing around
@@JARG Dreams dashed. This will be my first, as well. The hunt continues...
What if someone had the 20lb stainless steel guide rod but still getting slide creep?
No likely
There’s still a problem. Adding a very heavy recoil spring didn’t fix it. It just converted it up. You should be able to run a 13# in it without issue.
So it works or not?
@@JARG just saying you didn’t fix it you just converted it up. If you can’t run it with the factory spring it’s not fixed. You might be able to run it long enough to smooth it out enough to go back to it later. Just fixed up a 2011 for a guy that was running a 18# to make it work. It runs a 10 now.
I’ve been having this one problem with my p80. When I go to pull the trigger, the slide moves back as well. Any tips on how to fix it
Yes this video. Look at my playlist on P80
You need 20lbs recoil spring
I’m Gunna try this. I’ve been having the exact same problem with my Glock 26. I put a gen 3 slide on a Gen 5 frame and have a 16lb stainless steel recoil spring. Not a dual but a single. Would you recommend a 20lb spring because slide is shorter? Or that doesn’t make a difference and I should go for the 20lb spring?
The lowest spring that will provide correct operating
Thanks for quick reply. I’ll order a 20lb spring as see how it goes
I have that same problem with my glock 17 long slide. Should I buy also the 20lb? Please advise 🙏
If you have the problem in this video then yes
I got the 20lb recoil spring in. it still has the slide creep and getting light primer strikes. It doesn't do it as much now but it's still the issue. I also changed the firing pin spring to a factory glock one. That didn't Solve the issue either. Should I try a heavier recoil spring like a 22lb?
The light strikes are definitely due to slide creep. Example: if the firing pin spring was not even in and the shark fin was pressing against another part of the slide it would creep back. Possibly the angle of your fin is causing it to push back on your safety plunger instead of pushing it to the rear. See my video on #2 problem of P80. In same playlist
@JARG that could be the issue, thanks. ill check it out
My doing the same thanks to this video much appreciated
I need help with my p80 Glock 19 the vid explaining the problem on my channel thank you
What is the issue when the slide want stay back after an empty clip?
@@alfonsojeffturner5022 mag is not pressing release up. Could be your finger, mag spring, or slide lock issue
I found this video when I put the issue in the search bar, but, since my barrel is ported, will I have issues with lower grains such as 115 & 124's since I'm using such a heavy spring weight?
Porting causes reduced recoil. May need a 15 or 13 spring if not ejecting
@@JARG but that's the point of my question. If my slide won't go into battery after attempting to chamber a round just by racking the slide back, I'll more then likely need a heavier spring, such as a 20 pounder, but will that 20 pounder allow me to shoot the light bullet weights, or will I have to stick with the heavier ammo?
@@sensay8374I'm trying to figure that out too
Where do you buy your parts from
Which ones?
I watched your video and ordered the 20lbs recoil spring and it fixed the issue of not going into battery, but I’m still gettin light primer strikes. Do I need a different recoil spring and if so what poundage would you recommend
When you pull the trigger of the empty weapon… does the slide move at all?
No sir, no slide creep at all.
Can't seem to locate where you purchased your recoil spring. Do you have a link?
@@EpicCheese765 this is for a G19 www.ebay.com/itm/362382135675?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=gGew-4skRna&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=_4pUIeHaSOu&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
@@JARGthanks!
Doesn’t the 20Lb spring make it harder to rack the slide?
No but it keeps the slide full forward while pulling the trigger and chambering after firing
@@JARG thank you!
Maybe you can help me out....I bought 2 p80 ....the 19 when racked with the trigger to the rear will go off when trying to release the trigger
Crossbar angle. Watch my video on it
@@JARG got it 👍 your the champ
I got the same problem with the g20 version, slide not going all the way forward back into battery, i sold the slide, still got the frame, i wonder if it was the rod spring,?
Yes
I have this issue plus my p80 stove pipes often. Any fix for that at all?
What exactly is happening? If slide does not close then you need a stronger recoil spring. But a stove pipe is normally a weak grip or too strong of a recoil spring. What striker spring do you use?
@JARG okay, it went from firing flawlessly. The first 140 rounds to almost every shot is a stove pipe, or it won't fully go into battery but I use a zev striker spring pro. Do you know a fix for that at all?
I'm not having light primer strikes I'm having offset primer strikes instead of in the center some of them are going up on the very edge this is happening with both Steelcase and Brass casing any advice I've ordered a factory recoil spring it's got a plastic Glock recoil guide rod in spring in it
Check firing pin and firing pin plastic sleeve
@@JARG yes sir I did that I took it completely apart checked everything like I said everything's cleaned the for the frame and slide made I was sure to leave that up good I bought this PSA dagger used at a pawn shop a couple of weeks ago and I'm just now started having the issues like I said someone has put a Glock guide spring and guide rod the black plastic one and they come factory with a stainless steel one so I figured probably what's in it might be wore out I've got another one ordered was just curious if you thought maybe that might take care of it
@@JARG okay so I ordered a replacement guide rod from Palmetto State it was like 10 bucks plus shipping of course and the problem is cured so a high strike on the primer now with me it was between 1:00 and 3 Rounds and a 15 round magazine could possibly be fixed with a replaced guide rod considering about this pistol at a pawn shop and it had a Glock guide rod spring in it I would say the same thing could be possible for Glocks or any Glock clone pistols such as the PSA dagger
Oil, oil, oil.
And get an OEM guide rod and make sure to remove enough material in the channel
Haha. If it was that easy I would have. Give me a little credit
@@JARG yea there are different variables and tolerances from each part maker so the solution to a problem can be different for different peoples' experiences. Good video though. We need more of our types on TH-cam. Guntubers 💥🔫
hey where can i buy the 20 lb spring from?
www.ebay.com/itm/223672586239
Lone wolf distribution
Reading the comments, this seems like a common issue. What the cause, are the striker springs that strong?
Parts and tolerances. It would likely go back to regular spring after 1000 rounds. Does that make sense?
Hey my take down spring on my p80 g19 isn't sitting flush?? Mind you I bought some cheap eBay lower kit. Also isn't resetting trigger. What the best brand lower kit to buy
I would say any reputable site or commercial site like Optics Planet or Midway USA would have quality kits. I have bought cheap parts on eBay to test but not a good idea
I have an issue with my plunger extractor, it’s completely stuck inside the slide I pulled apart my slide to clean it and my plunger wouldn’t move. Any recommendations? Tips on how to remove it?
I am sure you removed the extractor
Is it your plunger spring or safety plunger?
@@JARG sorry the plunger extractor spring
Hi ik working on a new geileser and my barrel isn’t locking up with my slide completely while on the frame but it seats in the slide perfectly while off of the frame any advice ?
hey man, i'm having an issue with my trigger. it's super hard to pull and sometimes when i pull it all the way back as hard as i can it won't fire. (when i'm dry fire testing.) but the trigger resets just fine but it's super hard to pull and when it does fire it's a super loud click.
Post a video on your channel and show me. Also show me the trigger out of weapon. Maybe pre travel adjustments on back of trigger or cross angle is too high
@@JARG th-cam.com/users/shorts3A7BonhcTOE?feature=share
@@JARG th-cam.com/users/shortssEWivVputL0?feature=share
@@JARG jus posted em and sent both links. sorry if it's something obvious and stupid ima complete noob in the p80 world and jus building shit period so any help is appreciated lol
Me 2 is there any way to fix this problem the triggers supper heavy
After doing the function check, my slide falls off. GRN 5 g26
Either wrong Gen barrel, slide is not in track, or locking block. Send me a video
How about a slide not closing on an empty mag? Appears to be getting hung up on the mag follower.
I mean it’s suppose to lock open with an empty mag Sir
@@JARG LoL I know that, but you can still drop your slide on an empty mag when you press your slide stop… what the slide is not supposed to do, is get hung up on the mag follower when you push your slide stop down.
@@FightForFreedom1776 no you cant drop your slide on an empty mag.
So what you're actually saying is instead of buying a Tesla? I should have just bought a Toyota. I am not a Glock fan. But I did get my hands-on g 19. G3 OD green at 350. P80 was 500. I have not put any custom parts to make it work. Is would anybody actually carry one of these for self defense.
I trust mine but it’s a fun gun not a carry gun
I am a Glock fan BTW
@JARG in my city I see people buy them left and right. I see that you understand that it's a shoot for fun or practicing gun. 500 is a lot to pay. And they only cost 250 to build. Enjoy and be careful.
Can I get a link of the 20lb spring? I got Zaffiri slide and barrel and having feeding issues. Please help
Anywhere
www.ebay.com/itm/362382135675
I put a 20lb spring on and its still doing it. Any other ideas?
Doing what
@JARG it still have the slide creep and getting light primer hits. It doesn't do it as much now but it's still an issue. I also changed the firing pin spring to a factory glock one. That didn't Solve the issue either. Should I try a heavier recoil spring like a 22lb?
Dude thanks bro!
I have a problem with my p80 19 ss slide I think it’s the firing pin when I rack it back without the magazine everything works.Fine but when I put the magazine in the slide won’t go into battery and then the firing pin pushes back (not forward) and then gets stuck and locks. Then I have to hit the firing pin forward for it to unlock. Almost like its stuck on something
Interesting. Slide issue sounds like recoil spring issue in my vid. Make a video and post to your channel. Tell me when posted
Could this be the reason why my gun is jamming ?
Fail to feed or fail to eject
@@JARG dats crazy because my Glock is failing to feeddddddd
when i shoot my p80 g17 it gets stuck back and wont cycle i have to click the slide button to fire any advice ???
Sorry missed your question. Yes your mag likely. Rounds are pressing your slide stop. If more than one mag, you need to modify your slide stop so that rounds don’t touch but the follower still presses up on last round
20lbs??? You must be running some hot ass 9mm for a 20lb recoil spring. I went down to 15lb spring and no battery issues. I don't get it????
In my regular G19. Got a 13 lbs. in my G34, I got the 11
Just made my p80 g17 and when I put the slide on it only goes into battery if I let the slide fall hard after racking it. If I pull the slide a lil back then let go it never goes into battery and gets stuck like a half inch from the slide going all the way. And when I hold the trigger down then rack the slide it’s like my trigger gets stuck back for a few racks and won’t go into battery that way either. Any advice?
Yes. Recoil spring
You need that 20lbs spring
i’ll send you $100 to make a video on how to fix my slide it keeps locking back every time i rack it, and i have to hit the back to make it charge forward
Sure post a 15 sec video of the action locking back and you putting it forward. Post to your channel and tell me when up
Help. My PSf940SC One I’ll put the 26 upper on everything works flawless I updated the recoil spring also but when I put the 27 upper on my trigger slips. I’ll pull the trigger keep my finger on the trigger holding it down and I’ll rack it and the trigger will slip off the connector It also looks like the slide can go on a Couple centimeters the left side of the Back plate sticks out so that would be the back of the trigger shoe on the 26 it’s flush. Yes I’m using all OEM internals but I upgraded all recoil springs stainless steel. I even changed the ejector. What would cause this the 26 Upper Works flawless passes drug test. The 27 upper on the same SC lower the trigger slips your hold it down racket and it’ll sound like you just pulled the trigger help help help help
Is your slide going slightly to the rear?
@@JARG OK when I put on the slide 27 it’s not on all the way it’s off by two or 3 cm it’s not flush with the back of the trigger shoe and back plate. It fires Sometimes it doesn’t go back into battery the trigger is still back in the slide didn’t go forward but if I give it a little tap or shake the slide will go back into battery but Trigger dead also will fire auto. I put my 26 slide on and have no problems it runs flawless
I have a similar issue where the slide is stuck and hard to slide back or not at all. I have to Slightly have to push the barrel down in order to slide back to eject the round. Is their a way to send u a video
Post to your YT. Send the link
Any tips on making the P80 butter smooth when racking it? Do i have to level sand the rails?
Possibly FLITZ in the tracks and rack it a couple hundred times then clean and grease it
Bullet gets jammed when trying to rack my slide back any fixes?
What type of ammo? Ball, Hollow point, etc. what grain?
Should my slide come off after I took the mag out and cock and squeeze the trigger,the slide slides forward and comes off without me having to push the take down spring,and then when the mag is in and I cock it I can push the slide forward like half a inch,is this normal?
No. Means slide is not locked in on track with takedown pin locking the barrel. One reason is if recoil spring is not In correct notch
Hero
That’s was I tell my wife
Can i have the link for this exact recoil spring thanks in advance JARG
www.ebay.com/itm/223672586239?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=g61dNy4NTv6&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=_4pUIeHaSOu&var=522569166340&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
It was a No Name while I was testing different things. 20lbs spring for your make and model
@@JARG thanks for the link I hope this fixes the problem I have with my p80 appreciate it bro
@nandodrea did you end up getting it? If so did it solve it
I’ve got a p80 that fires on pull and release of trigger any ideas or someone knows what’s causing this ?
Likely the cross is slightly angled too low in back. See number 1 problem video
all well and good until you have a gun with a threaded barrel for suppressors and find the recoil spring just makes it harder for the slide to go all the way back for proper ejection.
trim down and get that spring channel on your frame super FLUSH and uniform. make sure that that NOTHING is catching, let alone rubbing the recoil spring in that frame. that way even a 13lb spring can function without issue. getting a heavier spring just makes it work with brute force rather than correctly.
Good points but not the fix for this issue. I personally have tried this method. Works
You sound like the original pushers of the AR in the military. They said it was designed to not need any lube. Haha what a joke