or those wondering the vacuum pump on the back of the oil pump is actually because there is no manifold vacuum! BMW Valvetronic uses the intake valves to meter the amount of air entering the engine. this causes the intake manifold to never create vacuum and eliminates the use of a throttle body. most valvetronic cars will still have a throttle body as a fail safe tho.
You just don’t see that many in-depth high quality vids out there such as this. Major props to you guys for keeping it real 🤘🏼 the effort put in really shows
Piston rings rotate in the bore when the engine is running. They rotate at about 1rpm when the engine is at idle. Staggering rings is for initial startup sealing and then they start moving. Its really not a big deal as long as they're not lined up for initial startup. Did you guys balance the crank with the new rotating parts or are you just winging it since it was such a time crunch?
The reason that the brake booster doesn’t use vacuum from the manifold is because of Valvetronic. Valvetronic doesn’t create any pressure in the intake manifold due to the throttle body always being 100% open and instead it uses the amount the valves open as the “throttle.” Now getting to the end of the video it looks like Mike removed the Valevteonic system so in his case the intake manifold would once again have pressure
I'm part of a n54 group and just yesterday people lost their shit on a guy who was using plastigauge. they murdered him in the comments. Told him to buy p[roper tools or sell his car. I was like Dayyyyum . Plastigauge is fine if you know how to use it.
Yeah, like anything it's how you use it. Newly machined or non scuffed stock crank, etc. Plastic gauge is fine...as long as it spins freely once you torque everything down as it won't show out of round...maybe if you kept the crank in the same position and checked in 90degree increments...somewhat
@@sampfister580 have the engine operate with the crank case under vacuum is highly beneficial. less parasitic loss. also prevents ever having positive crank case pressure.
It Is so much Better to Understand building a motor this way Mike and Tim. Awesome to See the In-line 6. Maybe BMW should scrap their V8 program and Focus on In line 8 production Motor. Thanks FCP Euro for this Video
The main cause of rod bearing failer on all these engines is the (OIL pressure CONTROL VALVE). Papadakis Racings talks about it on his channel. You just leave it disconnected and it defaults to max oil pressure. 1:38
The oil scraper and oil expansion are the 3 pack of rings on the bottom set, should have used the vacuum pump on the oil pump as an evacuation pump for the crankcase... just a thought... lithium or vaseline for the pump help startup...
Having watched this video I feel the root cause was the turbo upgrade creating too much vacuum in the crankcase (not actually over-boosting). Pretty sure this car needs a crankcase breather and vented catch cans / AOS. The damage on the bottom of the piston skirts is a strong indicator that the piston was pulled out of alignment into the piston wall by vacuum and not pushed into the wall by overboosting which would cause similar damage not on the top half of the piston above the rings. Also, Why was there all that water? your right that the oil degradation comes from oil and water. But the question then is why is there that much water? It’s most likely because of the oil not reaching operating temps (above 212) I’ll bet you anything that car has a mishimoto oil cooler and the owner did a thermostat delete/switched to the lower temp thermostat which is really a gimmick of an upgrade. Basically never letting the oil heat up. Many things can cause damage to rod bearings, but whenever they spin within the bores- water was apart of the equation. I love the work y’all done and this was a massive upgrade to the engine. But I feel that there are a few clear things here not part of the block that need to be considered in this equation.
I haven't built a Bmw motor before just American mostly n some Japanese motors. But the question I have is since your waiting on the block. Do you not balance the rods n pistons n components to the crank?
I've torn two of these engines down and had to use the big impact on that idler bolt. I couldn't get it with the breaker bar and 6 foot pipe, it is super tight.
I make over 650whp on a stock motor but every turbo car has some lag, anti lag would be your option if you’re not trying to deal with turbo lag for a built motor but that’s for highway racing if you’re taking it to a track then unfortunately the lag will be there but it’s not much with proper tuning.
Very good quality content for the B58 . We’re using the S58 on Motec for race / time attack but unfortunately there’s nothing really like this on YT for this platform for background research and extra knowledge. Please do something on the S58 , much appreciated content non the less . 👍😃
Cool video, Thank you for sharing🙏👍. On the race/Drift B58 you guys use the full 100% 5w40 Synthoil synthetic Liqui Moly?Do you add an additive? eg. Mos2 or Ceratec to boost lubricity/film strenght to help the reliability? Not implying is reason for failure, as you explained thoroughly in video. Just curious what Liqui Moly oil spec to run on boosted S54 and the strong B58 and if additives needed in Liqui Moly 100% synthetic to help boost reliability?😅 🙏
@@Melvin-01 Thanks, would have love to use the high Zinc US oils, but in our country they only import Europeen oil only 😅 So we pretty much stuck with lower zinc Euro oil. The closest we can get if we use either 300V Motul or "cheat code" Superbike oils😢. Valvoline,Royal Purple, Amzoil,Redline, Driven all great oils(seen wear test-extremely good) but unfortunately not avilible. We have Liqui Moly thou but the 4T Liqui Moly oil protects much better than the Molygen car range
nothing, pre 2020 supras have the 2 port b58, post 2020 have the 6 port. Both of those engines are identical to respective b58 applications in bmw chassis'.
The gaskets are fine if the crankcase doesn’t get subject to too much vacuum. So while the gaskets are able to handle lots of heat. These engines quickly pull too much vacuum and all that negative pressure pulling against the gaskets potentially deforms them. Also, the biggest enemy to gaskets relate to the range of heat exposure. By range, I don’t mean highest temp on any particular drive but the diff between highest and lowest temps they’ll experience in their lifetime will determine how well they stand the test of time. Hence, keeping a car garage kept is so beneficial especially for those in cold climates (from a gasket’s perspective) because you prevent the gaskets from heating up having started in that below freezing temp zone. Don’t get all paranoid with this info, just sharing what I’ve learned from living in the weeds of a gasket rabbit hole.
I was not aware that modern start/stop systems cause additional wear on bearings. Ironic how government gas mileage and emissions standards on vehicles to which start/stop was a way to meet those guidelines results in engine wear issues resulting in eventual decreased gas mileage and increased emissions, as well as substantial service costs to vehicle owners. 😁
The EPA doesn’t give a flying Fuck about your engine internals degrading from start/stop. In fact the tighter tolerances they are forcing for MPG has manufacturers costing us reliability and is actually making oil waste dirty. Shutting down tuning shops is stupid as Ethanol burns cleaner.
I 100% agree with you. Ethanol burns cleaner, keeps system components cleaner, cleans up timing corrections, allows systems to run cooler, c and generate more horsepower especially turbo boosted engines. From day one always thought the wear/tear on starter, and battery components was bad. Government regulations on MPG, Emissions, also leads to all the garbage low reliability weight reduction techniques from manufacturers like plastic intake manifolds, valve covers, turbo piping, internal pcv systems. Then they wonder why we have to rebuild, tune, boost, use quality stainless materials to generate more horsepower and better reliability ourselves. 😁
Typical video; spend all the time on stuff most of us know, and speed through the stuff most of us have never done before. Thank you for telling us what piston rings are and how a feeler gauge works. Don't bother telling us how to figure out the ring gap and how you grind the ends down.
@@danielwilliams214Can confirm he was stock and actually ran a faster 8.675 @ 159 shortly after. Since the record, the motor received forged internals and a built head, including cams. Both his new and old stock motor records are impressive for a car that is full weight but that's not an advisable path for everyday driving. If you want reliable four digit power out of a B58 and consistent 8-9sec 1/4mile and possibly even 7s, build the motor and take some weight out, especially if it's xdrive. Both the B58 and Coyote are phenomenal engines but in terms of stock motor capability, the Coyote (gen2) has a slight edge. You'll need upgraded head studs when adding a turbo kit but I wouldn't consider that "opening" the motor. Both platforms are great so at the end of the day it doesn't matter what other people think as long as it brings you happiness. A lot of the people that criticize these achievements won't put the work in to run the numbers themselves.
expand please, opinions and bias without facts is jsut as garbage as what you claim an engine to be. Fact the B58 coil packs are stout with high energy output, and aree a common upgrade on older platforms, such as the N54. it has a forged crank, and drop forged cracked connecting rods, both a boon when it comes to engine power capability. adding to this the pistons are also forged alloy FROM FACTORY it has a closed deck design, a bonus over the open deck design of the N54/55 series of engines, as wel all know side loading can cause the cylinders to walk on an open deck. the engine's forced induction design was also met with a water to air intercooler, this method of cooling can be easily modified to keep intake temps in check even with high boost levels by using secondary cooling units, adding an ice bucket/bath, etc. as the block and head are aluminum, it is a lightweight engine, giving superior weight distribution front to rear for exceptional handling characteristics ( similar to the RX-7 50/50 distribution) overall the basic bare block has everything you want for a hefty power making engine, and items that others have to pay aftermarket for the privilege of using on their race cars. if anything, i contest the B58 is the true german 2JZ predecessor, not the N54.
@@exiteterniumdudes name is all you need to know about him. He probably knows nothing about it. Or motors in general. Especially when it comes to real world experience. There’s tons of ppl that hear shit and never touch things because of what they heard and then if they ever do get the chance to, or even say like cars, get to ride in one, especially modified, they always end up thinking much differently about it, I’ve done it with things random things. Best experience is to experience it yourself. Just cuz 99 out of 100 doesn’t like it doesn’t mean you won’t love it. People are just so easily swayed and manipulated without ever experiencing anything. It’s really sad tbh.
@reaction9449 I know, I just hate opinions based on false information, kinda like outlaw garage worries me cause he makes commentary and does things that make me cringe as an auto enthusiast, and prior wrench turner career before back issues kicked in. I've owned DSM, I've owned Dodge srt 4, I've had v8 camaros, and helped my father in law with his 383 stroker chevy II, I've done hand porting and polishing on my first sport compact I ever owned which was a chevrolet with the 60 degree v6 3100 sfi. I've done the 3.0 engine swap in a Ford taurus SVT, cause the guy blew up the 2.5 and wanted the bigger engine, I've owned an rx7 and a rebadged mitsubishi starion, kinda wish I kept the fc3s chassis rx.. would been great powered by an aluminum 6.0 block with 4.8 rods and crank. I miss my dsm with big 16g turbo, abd my srt4. But the dsm was a factory fuckup of an engine that never held timing with new components, and the set succumbed to Midwest salt solution and had rust holes I could fit my arm in.
or those wondering the vacuum pump on the back of the oil pump is actually because there is no manifold vacuum! BMW Valvetronic uses the intake valves to meter the amount of air entering the engine. this causes the intake manifold to never create vacuum and eliminates the use of a throttle body. most valvetronic cars will still have a throttle body as a fail safe tho.
You just don’t see that many in-depth high quality vids out there such as this. Major props to you guys for keeping it real 🤘🏼 the effort put in really shows
Thank you for making this video. I can only imagine what effort was involved making it.
Much love from the UK
Piston rings rotate in the bore when the engine is running. They rotate at about 1rpm when the engine is at idle. Staggering rings is for initial startup sealing and then they start moving. Its really not a big deal as long as they're not lined up for initial startup.
Did you guys balance the crank with the new rotating parts or are you just winging it since it was such a time crunch?
The reason that the brake booster doesn’t use vacuum from the manifold is because of Valvetronic. Valvetronic doesn’t create any pressure in the intake manifold due to the throttle body always being 100% open and instead it uses the amount the valves open as the “throttle.” Now getting to the end of the video it looks like Mike removed the Valevteonic system so in his case the intake manifold would once again have pressure
I'm part of a n54 group and just yesterday people lost their shit on a guy who was using plastigauge. they murdered him in the comments. Told him to buy p[roper tools or sell his car. I was like Dayyyyum . Plastigauge is fine if you know how to use it.
Seen plenty of legit engine builders using plasti gauge, internet know it alls are just that
Yeah, like anything it's how you use it. Newly machined or non scuffed stock crank, etc. Plastic gauge is fine...as long as it spins freely once you torque everything down as it won't show out of round...maybe if you kept the crank in the same position and checked in 90degree increments...somewhat
Internet mechanics always talkin😊
N54 groups are savage
Bro for real. Gotta have thick skin going into the group 🤪lol @@uisperfectemail9720
There is a wealth of knowledge in just this one video. Ty!
The PCV delete is a death sentence for the B58.. Always go down the catch can route. Ross racing have a really good catch can set up.
why death sentence?
@@sampfister580 have the engine operate with the crank case under vacuum is highly beneficial. less parasitic loss. also prevents ever having positive crank case pressure.
Tim fans unite!
Also, great watch 🤙👌
It Is so much Better to Understand building a motor this way Mike and Tim. Awesome to See the In-line 6. Maybe BMW should scrap their V8 program and Focus on In line 8 production Motor. Thanks FCP Euro for this Video
Space
14:40 He lost 96% of shops when he said clean workspace!!! hahaha!
Tyler is the literal GOAT. Wouldn’t have anyone else work on my car.
The main cause of rod bearing failer on all these engines is the
(OIL pressure CONTROL VALVE).
Papadakis Racings
talks about it on his channel. You just leave it disconnected and it defaults to max oil pressure. 1:38
The fact that Michael Essa is in here is fucking sick. I love FCP too #lifetimewarranty
Awesome insight into such a promising platform, thanks for a great video
We love whatthe B58 brought to the market!
What if the pin doesn’t fit into the rod small bore
did I understand that right, failure of the air oil separator led to a spun rod bearing?
The oil scraper and oil expansion are the 3 pack of rings on the bottom set, should have used the vacuum pump on the oil pump as an evacuation pump for the crankcase... just a thought... lithium or vaseline for the pump help startup...
Having watched this video I feel the root cause was the turbo upgrade creating too much vacuum in the crankcase (not actually over-boosting). Pretty sure this car needs a crankcase breather and vented catch cans / AOS. The damage on the bottom of the piston skirts is a strong indicator that the piston was pulled out of alignment into the piston wall by vacuum and not pushed into the wall by overboosting which would cause similar damage not on the top half of the piston above the rings.
Also, Why was there all that water? your right that the oil degradation comes from oil and water. But the question then is why is there that much water? It’s most likely because of the oil not reaching operating temps (above 212) I’ll bet you anything that car has a mishimoto oil cooler and the owner did a thermostat delete/switched to the lower temp thermostat which is really a gimmick of an upgrade. Basically never letting the oil heat up. Many things can cause damage to rod bearings, but whenever they spin within the bores- water was apart of the equation. I love the work y’all done and this was a massive upgrade to the engine. But I feel that there are a few clear things here not part of the block that need to be considered in this equation.
Also cryo treat it....help prevent any warping or twisting
Did you guys properly wash that block before the assembly? Many machine shops don't... Cleanliness topic....
Was this the engine from Mike's drift car that he recently sold?
The original yep!
I haven't built a Bmw motor before just American mostly n some Japanese motors. But the question I have is since your waiting on the block. Do you not balance the rods n pistons n components to the crank?
Great and informative video. Question given what you are using this car for wouldn’t a dry sump system be a better plan?
I've torn two of these engines down and had to use the big impact on that idler bolt. I couldn't get it with the breaker bar and 6 foot pipe, it is super tight.
Its a proper PITA
those new pistons got overspray on the inside of them? is that normal for such expensive pistons?
K1 rods with CP carillo 10.5 pistons you think would be good for a 650whp build with NO turbo spool/lag?
I make over 650whp on a stock motor but every turbo car has some lag, anti lag would be your option if you’re not trying to deal with turbo lag for a built motor but that’s for highway racing if you’re taking it to a track then unfortunately the lag will be there but it’s not much with proper tuning.
@@ScubaDriv3r stock turbo or stock long block??? No shot that is stock turbo...
Great content, would love to see more.
Mike Essa ❤
Awesome video ❤❤
How much boost was this engine running?
I have always used synthetic oils at assembly, never had any blow-by issues or any other issues :)
What brand is the pcv delete
dont buy that if you want your motor to last.
Someone else mentioned this ^
He said go the catch can route
N55 E9x also has the oil pressure vale control FYI
Very good quality content for the B58 .
We’re using the S58 on Motec for race / time attack but unfortunately there’s nothing really like this on YT for this platform for background research and extra knowledge.
Please do something on the S58 , much appreciated content non the less . 👍😃
Glad you enjoyed it - we hope the video finds more people interesting in the B58 platform/ S58 could be fun...😁
Anybody have more info on locking out the valvetronic system ?
So what do we think the labor costs would be for a shop to do this boys? Thanks
Fantastic video 💯🤘
Those CP pistons look awesome, one day I’d love to slot some in my engine
When tuned and built like this, do you guys think there’s a huge performance difference between the b58 gen 1 and b58 gen 2?
TH-cam search 1stock. His Gen 2 b58 made 950+ whp stock motor and ran 8.6.
@@bland3429then blew up shortly after and now it’s fully built 😂
@@johncena-hq1timotor was never blown up. He swap in a new built motor
@@bland3429 it looked pretty fucked when they took it apart lol. Metal in the pan but yeah totally fine😂
@@johncena-hq1tiYou haven't seen one. Nice fairy-tales dork 😂🤡🤡
I want him building my B58 when it’s time. I’m doing an fk8 k20c1 build using Motec M142 also.
Is that a Gen2 B58?
Cool video, Thank you for sharing🙏👍. On the race/Drift B58 you guys use the full 100% 5w40 Synthoil synthetic Liqui Moly?Do you add an additive? eg. Mos2 or Ceratec to boost lubricity/film strenght to help the reliability?
Not implying is reason for failure, as you explained thoroughly in video.
Just curious what Liqui Moly oil spec to run on boosted S54 and the strong B58 and if additives needed in Liqui Moly 100% synthetic to help boost reliability?😅 🙏
If you're using molygen an additive is not needed/recommended
Use amsoil
@@Melvin-01 Thanks, would have love to use the high Zinc US oils, but in our country they only import Europeen oil only 😅 So we pretty much stuck with lower zinc Euro oil. The closest we can get if we use either 300V Motul or "cheat code" Superbike oils😢. Valvoline,Royal Purple, Amzoil,Redline, Driven all great oils(seen wear test-extremely good) but unfortunately not avilible. We have Liqui Moly thou but the 4T Liqui Moly oil protects much better than the Molygen car range
How can i get an FCP Euro Hoodie or T shirt
How different is the B58 in the Supra compared to the B58 in BMW’s
nothing, pre 2020 supras have the 2 port b58, post 2020 have the 6 port. Both of those engines are identical to respective b58 applications in bmw chassis'.
@@fry.masterit is very different from B58 TU2 though, which is replacing TU throughout the line.
ATI super damper on a B58???
Nope, the rtv gaskets don't last at all. I had to have my b58 oil pan resealed immediately after purchase @ 6yrs old with 45k miles.
The gaskets are fine if the crankcase doesn’t get subject to too much vacuum. So while the gaskets are able to handle lots of heat. These engines quickly pull too much vacuum and all that negative pressure pulling against the gaskets potentially deforms them. Also, the biggest enemy to gaskets relate to the range of heat exposure. By range, I don’t mean highest temp on any particular drive but the diff between highest and lowest temps they’ll experience in their lifetime will determine how well they stand the test of time. Hence, keeping a car garage kept is so beneficial especially for those in cold climates (from a gasket’s perspective) because you prevent the gaskets from heating up having started in that below freezing temp zone. Don’t get all paranoid with this info, just sharing what I’ve learned from living in the weeds of a gasket rabbit hole.
Time for a catch can 😂😂😂
I was not aware that modern start/stop systems cause additional wear on bearings. Ironic how government gas mileage and emissions standards on vehicles to which start/stop was a way to meet those guidelines results in engine wear issues resulting in eventual decreased gas mileage and increased emissions, as well as substantial service costs to vehicle owners. 😁
The EPA doesn’t give a flying Fuck about your engine internals degrading from start/stop. In fact the tighter tolerances they are forcing for MPG has manufacturers costing us reliability and is actually making oil waste dirty. Shutting down tuning shops is stupid as Ethanol burns cleaner.
I 100% agree with you. Ethanol burns cleaner, keeps system components cleaner, cleans up timing corrections, allows systems to run cooler, c
and generate more horsepower especially turbo boosted engines. From day one always thought the wear/tear on starter, and battery components was bad. Government regulations on MPG, Emissions, also leads to all the garbage low reliability weight reduction techniques from manufacturers like plastic intake manifolds, valve covers, turbo piping, internal pcv systems. Then they wonder why we have to rebuild, tune, boost, use quality stainless materials to generate more horsepower and better reliability ourselves. 😁
Didn’t Mike sell that car to Nico
Believe ended up being its new home!
Why does no one ever wanna try out the n20
We have a whole series on our N20 328si build
Wait a minute....WAS THAT TIM?? DID I JUST SEE TIM?? This was before DDE huh? Lol
OG Tim!
Who is here after watching the DDE video ??
Hmmm, FYI piston rings rotate!
Good less, expensive than Sxx motors....but not bulletproof...still very good motors, great for building (replace bearings!)
9:09 $1,000 of dollars in engine parts, Chinese knock-off Milwaukee battery 😕
I am guessing the answer to the question is NO. For sure not a 2JZ.
Mike essa is the mf goat fr👏🏼
Fr fr
Typical video; spend all the time on stuff most of us know, and speed through the stuff most of us have never done before. Thank you for telling us what piston rings are and how a feeler gauge works. Don't bother telling us how to figure out the ring gap and how you grind the ends down.
D-D-E.. D-D-E.. D-D-E
600 is very low for these engines. Feel like you need to go harder if you want to start using the words bulletproof. Push to its limit please. 🙏
Fair - this thing can get dialed up to 11, the B58 and stout from factory.
Sealed Coyotes have gone 7s. Full built, 6.2s.
B58 = not as bulletproof. Fact
Sealed b58 have gone 8s. Not bad for 2 less cylinder and 2 less liters
@@danielwilliams214 🤣
@@danielwilliams214no sealed b58 has gone 8s my guy. That’s fully built
@@2seep 1stockf30 has gone 8.93@155
Stock motor.
@@danielwilliams214Can confirm he was stock and actually ran a faster 8.675 @ 159 shortly after. Since the record, the motor received forged internals and a built head, including cams. Both his new and old stock motor records are impressive for a car that is full weight but that's not an advisable path for everyday driving. If you want reliable four digit power out of a B58 and consistent 8-9sec 1/4mile and possibly even 7s, build the motor and take some weight out, especially if it's xdrive. Both the B58 and Coyote are phenomenal engines but in terms of stock motor capability, the Coyote (gen2) has a slight edge. You'll need upgraded head studs when adding a turbo kit but I wouldn't consider that "opening" the motor. Both platforms are great so at the end of the day it doesn't matter what other people think as long as it brings you happiness. A lot of the people that criticize these achievements won't put the work in to run the numbers themselves.
very nice job to see. @fcpeuro-media Which compression did you use for the pistons?
Bhaha b58 is a garbage motor 😂 a junk engine
expand please, opinions and bias without facts is jsut as garbage as what you claim an engine to be.
Fact the B58 coil packs are stout with high energy output, and aree a common upgrade on older platforms, such as the N54.
it has a forged crank, and drop forged cracked connecting rods, both a boon when it comes to engine power capability. adding to this the pistons are also forged alloy FROM FACTORY
it has a closed deck design, a bonus over the open deck design of the N54/55 series of engines, as wel all know side loading can cause the cylinders to walk on an open deck.
the engine's forced induction design was also met with a water to air intercooler, this method of cooling can be easily modified to keep intake temps in check even with high boost levels by using secondary cooling units, adding an ice bucket/bath, etc.
as the block and head are aluminum, it is a lightweight engine, giving superior weight distribution front to rear for exceptional handling characteristics ( similar to the RX-7 50/50 distribution)
overall the basic bare block has everything you want for a hefty power making engine, and items that others have to pay aftermarket for the privilege of using on their race cars. if anything, i contest the B58 is the true german 2JZ predecessor, not the N54.
this chump drives a prius
@@exiteterniumdudes name is all you need to know about him. He probably knows nothing about it. Or motors in general. Especially when it comes to real world experience. There’s tons of ppl that hear shit and never touch things because of what they heard and then if they ever do get the chance to, or even say like cars, get to ride in one, especially modified, they always end up thinking much differently about it, I’ve done it with things random things. Best experience is to experience it yourself. Just cuz 99 out of 100 doesn’t like it doesn’t mean you won’t love it. People are just so easily swayed and manipulated without ever experiencing anything. It’s really sad tbh.
@reaction9449 I know, I just hate opinions based on false information, kinda like outlaw garage worries me cause he makes commentary and does things that make me cringe as an auto enthusiast, and prior wrench turner career before back issues kicked in. I've owned DSM, I've owned Dodge srt 4, I've had v8 camaros, and helped my father in law with his 383 stroker chevy II, I've done hand porting and polishing on my first sport compact I ever owned which was a chevrolet with the 60 degree v6 3100 sfi. I've done the 3.0 engine swap in a Ford taurus SVT, cause the guy blew up the 2.5 and wanted the bigger engine, I've owned an rx7 and a rebadged mitsubishi starion, kinda wish I kept the fc3s chassis rx.. would been great powered by an aluminum 6.0 block with 4.8 rods and crank.
I miss my dsm with big 16g turbo, abd my srt4. But the dsm was a factory fuckup of an engine that never held timing with new components, and the set succumbed to Midwest salt solution and had rust holes I could fit my arm in.
@@exiteterniumhow would you compare the B58 vs. the RS3 five cylinder engine?