I don’t think anyone on TH-cam has understood the power of EI. I used to shoot on the Sony FS7 and understanding EI was vital to getting noise free images. Here’s why it’s important in a nut shell. You’re shooting slog3. You want to over expose or, ‘expose to the right’ to keep your shadows out of the noise floor. (Not so important on these new cameras, but vital on the FS7). But when you do expose to the right the image on your LCD is too bright! If only there was a way to darken down your LCD without actually darkening your exposure. THAT IS WHAT EXPOSURE INDEXING IS FOR!!!. You set your EI down. Make your screen look dark by 1 or 2 stops. Because it looks dark, you now should lighten your image, but not by touching the EI, leave that alone. Instead open the aperture or add light in. Now if it looks right on screen, even though your are at a minus EI, you will actually be over exposing your image, which in SLog3 is what you want. So that’s it. EI let’s you over expose, then turn your screen brightness down so it looks right while you’re rolling. That’s it. Simple.
Dude what you have explained is what like every fx6/fx3/fx30 user has been trying to understand and I feel like he didn’t explain any of that in this video. I shoot everything in my fx6 including weddings and have 0 issues with cine EI. If I do end up with some noisy shadows I just use neat to reduce it.
Adjusting your ISO does the same exact thing as cranking the exposure slider in a video editing program - the camera possibly does it a little bit better/cleaner, but it's essentially the same thing. Cranking your ISO just adds noise, unless you bump it to the second native ISO. You either physically give this sensor more light or less light. Cine EI in my opinion is the best option for weddings because it's one less setting you can get wrong - since ISO is essentially locked to two settings, the only thing you can do is add or take away light. If you want to stick at 1/double frame rate (or as of the newest firmware update 180° shutter), then your only option is to stop up or stop down your aperture, which in my opinion can look great even at high apertures if you understand how to compose well.
I am fresher into this filed n this video I have watched couple of tines today and precisely tried to understand his each and every delivery of words and at the end, I must say... Its worth to watch this video until you exactly understand as he delivers without using your mind. Thank you Matt.
since i have the fx3 and i shoot weddings, im gonna continue using cine ei. i keep my iso at 12800 through out the entire indoor portion of a wedding and use nds when needed. definitely wouldn’t work the same way for the fx30 though with it only having a 2500 base
Not sure I understand, been trying to.. so in CI mode iso is fixed at one of two base ISO’s. I heard you say adjusting shutter speed is a way to adjust exposure, but shouldn’t shutter speed be fixed to double the frame rate? F stop is usually fixed for desired look aswell, so doesn’t that leave you with basically ND filters only?
Thank for this! I watched a good amount of "easy" explanations and they were all still too complicated to understand. This really explained it in simple terms
Cine ei quick can still be used like regular iso flex by using the catalyst plugin for premiere or software as it stores the (emulated iso metadata you was viewing when recording) and corrects the exposure in the software for you to compensate.
Thank you Matt! You confirmed what I’ve already been thinking, in that there’s no need to work in Cine EI, as I usually stick to the two base ISO’s (while in Flex ISO) but in those cases where I need 3200 for a min, I can quickly switch to it. Appreciate your videos so much and share them to others who I know could benefit too. Much love man!
Como usuario de una Sony FX30 la mejor decisión que puedes tomar es usar CINE EI, y para los que dicen que es difícil editarlo yo utilizo los proxy como referencia de una exposición correcta en post. Esta vez no estoy de acuerdo con Matt.
I use flexible ISO and it works perfectly. I have my A7RV essentially set up the same way. That way, no matter which camera I grab, it’s the same process to nail exposure.
@@Bathingwookie Yeah, this feature alone isn't worth selling my a7siii and buying an fx3. However, whenever I do upgrade I will look for a sony cam with this feature
@@Galgomite I would mainly want it so I can eyeball the exposure with an m lut when doing run and gun so I wouldn't need an external monitor. That being said, it's not a deal breaker for me at this time
Thanks for video Matt. I think you missed the whole point of EXPOSURE INDEX here. If you use EI properly you can choose to see into the shadows or protect the highlights….which you simply can’t do with the normal ISO settings. Once you use EI for the purpose it was designed you will never look back. You will get better images than you ever have done before 👍 Again…great video
One big flaw with this is that CINE EI does not allow you to record internally and externally. I hate that, wish Sony would fix it. Until then, I'm using a custom PP for SLOG3. I lost footage when my Ninja stopped recording because it wasn't also doing an internal copy.
I’m pretty sure that the 2.0 firmware update for the fx3 changed the base iso to 800 for Cine ei. It’s really not a big deal if you choose 640 in flexible iso mode though, I wouldn’t expect to see any difference in footage quality between the two. It’s my understanding that the only reason that Sony updated the fx3 iso to be 800 is that they wanted to bring the base iso in line with all of their other cameras
Super easy to understand! Great reasoning for why one might want to use it and also for why one would want to shoot Flexible ISO instead. Great video, dude!
Súper helpful! I understand your take away. I just tried making a short video using the cine ei fixed iso version and the post took a LOT longer than the actual shooting and traveling to location 😅. Anyone want to critique my work I am super happy to hear your thoughts!
Matt, thanks for diving further into this. I have an FX30, A7IV and FS7. On the FX30, I've shot EI in horribly lit scenarios but it pulled through. I wonder if I would have had more post production lattitude in another ISO opposed to Cine ei. Furthermore, I've heard so many people say overexpose by 2 stops with the FX30. I know what you guys mean but like practically, I need to see this done. Can you hold the FX30 and show me what you mean when you overexpose by 2 stops etc. I plan on doing this in my own testing but it would be great to have your mind explain some things.
Is there a difference between above native ISO and bumping exposure up in post? In other words, if I set my FX30 to 2500 and then brighten up to equivalent of 12800 in post, is that more noisy than filming in 12800? Because isn't the camera just digirally increasing exposure anyway (just like your editor)?
I just got an FX6 .. you helped me so much with my A7s3. The menu system on the FX6 is a different beast for sure. Thanks in advance if you choose to take this on!
Not a Sony user, but had to watch this video a second time, just for the Audiio link. Sounds like a good deal, and for the price I might as well check it out.
Matt, In one of your presentations you said when not to use Cine EI? When not to? and i am sdoing a object shot staged all lighting controlled, what settings would yu use to shoot it?
Can you tell me if this is correct? You only have 2 Base ISOs that you can choose from in Cine EI. When changing the EI values in your camera you're not actually changing anything with the exposure of your real image file... it only changes how you see the image in your monitor. The reason to adjust your EI values are only for you to see how to adjust the exposure through lighting, ND, or Aperture, So if you want clean shadows you lower your EI value. This darkens the scene in your monitor and you realize you need to bring in more lights for your subject to be properly exposed because everything has gotten darker. Then when you bring this footage into your grading software all looks overexposed. But you'll just bring down the exposure to correctly expose your subject and your shadows will be clean! Is this correct?
Whilst I appreciate the 1.7/2+ stop guide when metering - do you find the ability to monitor with luts on the FX3 far more accurate to 'what you see is what you get' compared to the gamma assist on the a7siii? I really want to move from s-cinetone to s-log 3 when shooting my wedding films but don't currently feel confident without using the monitor with luts loaded, BUT I don't like using a monitor when shooting a wedding as I feel it's excess bulk (maybe I just need to get over that!)
@@RandumbTech I've got the a7siii so it's essentially flexible ISO as there isn't an option for Cine EI - I'll definitely just practice until I find it comfortable to use on jobs - it's still a lovely image but like. you say the dynamic range difference is noticeable
@@joshholgate9425 Once you find your preferred LUT, color grading becomes super easy. All I do is fix the white balance, apply LUT (strength to taste), and make any necessary exposure changes. You got this!!!
Great explanation! I feel that Cine EI only makes sense- as you state- when you have a very controlled lighting environment. Otherwise you will have to use your Post software to boost or lower exposure (as you also correctly state) - and I would rather let my Sony do that internally - both because it is quicker to do it while shooting AND I think the camera can potentially do a better job of Noise Reduction and perhaps preserving the Dynamic Range a bit better...
Can I ask a question to some awesome knowledgeable commenter here? I’m super confused about something…. I have an FX30. To shoot in log, I understand I how to change it in “log settings,” yada yada yada. But what’s the deal with Picture Profile via Exposure menu? Can’t I also shoot in log going this route? When I change to log shooting in log settings, picture profile is greyed out. Is picture profile just so you can plug in an additional monitor? Can someone explain this to me? Sorry for being a dingbat. 🙏🙏
beautiful video really nice, could you give us your export settings? I film with the SonyFx3 slog3cine and the new 4k dci but when I export in 1080 after a slight colorgrading the quality is horrible with pixels in the black thanks for your answer
So just to clarify, the base ISO's only advantage is that they offer a higher dynamic range? For some reason I thought the base ISOs were also the points at which the camera would have the least ISO noise possible, but could definitely be wrong on that.
@whoismatt I shoot nature in fast-moving and dynamic light conditions so your suggestion for Flexible ISO makes a lot of sense. My starting point would be set speed to 125 (60fps), set aperture to 6 - 9 (shallow depth of field does not help) and set ISO to automatic. I also have a variable neutral density filter for improving on the auto ISO outcomes in very bright conditions. However what makes this not work is that I cannot change Minimum ISO below 800 with these settings. Similarly if I change to manual ISO I cannot go below 800. My ISO Range (set elsewhere) is 50 - 32000 so I don't get what is happening. Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.
I'm still a complete noob. But shooting in winter condition with a lot of snow. A lot of sun. Would you recommend cine Ei or not? The footage seems great. But I'm still need to learn a lot
Hasn’t ETTR been discouraged for cinematography? It results in inconsistent noise from shot to shot, which can be jarring, and also tends to result in less consistency of exposure such that every shot needs its own grade.
Matt, why are we over exposing by that much. Seems like that would blow out any highlights? Also, is this just for Slog3? Would you do it for S-Cinetone?
Hey Adam! I have an SLOG3 tutorial video that explains my reasoning for recommending overexposing. :) CINE EI mode is just for slog3. For s cinetone just expose 0.0 to 0.3 or so.
Great video Matt! Thanks! Question: If I'm a good boy and I'm diligent in (manually) staying with the 2 base ISOs WITHOUT using a Cine EI mode will I achieve the same results/dynamic range as exposing using Cine EI?
Is it true with FX3 and FX30 that if you start at the base ISO and with flexible ISO intelligently decide if you need more dynamic range in the lows or high and move the iso value lower or higher to give you more dynamic range below or above middle gray? I understand base ISO is maximum but if I don’t have anything really bright in my scene and I’d rather prioritize below middle gray dynamic range, I lower the ISO. Sony tech works this way, right?
Hello, when you are in flexible ISO mode on the FX3 and you use the dial to set it to 12,000 ISO, does it automatically switch to high ISO, or are you still in low ISO at 12,000? nice Video :P
Honestly I'm confused what the purpose of the EI toggle even is if the footage isn't recorded with those settings and stays in one of the two base ISOs instead. Am I missing something?
I think it's too complicated to be aware of all that, I think a lumix gh6 with V-log is better for run and gun and just put the color editing in a single layer without the need to go clip by clip. What do you think in this case? the lumix would be better but I would have to use it without autofocus?
Thanks for the video, Matt. I'm a little confused though. It appears that whether I am in Cine EI or Cine EI Quick changing the ISO is reflected on my LCD from 640 up to 10000. The only difference I see is that Quick EI will automatically switch from L to H based on the Base ISO switch that is set in Exposure/Color > 1 menu. This is on the Fx30. It doesn't give an option to only show 800 and 2500 in Cine EI mode unless I am missing something?
If you are in Cine EI you are either in ISO 800 or 2500 (fx30). You cannot change to any other ISO. The camera will not allow it. By your description, what you are changing is the EI.
The only video of fabulous Matt that really misses the mark. CINE EI does not just lock you into the two base ISO’s. It’s is far more flexible than that regarding retention on the best dynamic range and control of noise.
You missed a huge part of Cine EI. you can use CineEI to redistribute the camera sensor's dynamic range between the highlights and shadows. This is exactly how other cinema camera's like the RED camera's operate.
This cine EI is just crazy to use. Getting correct exposure is far more important than base ISO. Because we are working in a baked in format, you don't have the flexibility like you have in raw. Noise is overrated and only lives in the blacks. Also when compressed it is not as controlable. Better to have the exposure right and live with a little noise than bring up the blacks from underexpose which will be noisy. I recommend don't use this in cameras that don't have inbuilt ND filters. Remember we still need to follow the 180 degree rules for natural movement blur, therefore you shouldn't be touching the shutter speed. This is an insanely bad feature to put in cameras without NDs.
Except the camera internally may do a better job of noise reduction and preserving dynamic range than your post program can - hopefully Sony has tweaked it's processing to be optimal for the specific camera....
@@Nypics I use Neat Video. When I compare my Fx6 Footage with highly compressed Noise Reduction in camera with noise Reduced Footage with Neat: Neat is the much better choice.
Actually it’s quite the opposite. You should definitely dial CineEI to get the look that toy want. Don’t leave it at 800. When you are not using CineEI you are letting the camera make that decision for you. Cine EI gives you the option to decide in post. Keep cine EI at 640 o lower to get sweet clean slog3 overexposed to taste
10 other videos did not explain what you did so quickly around 2:50 or so. lol. Yes the other 10 videos helped. But I'm like...don't use quick use regular and here's why. ::)
Iso isn’t an exposure tool. Raise exposure in post & will have the same noise as having an higher iso. Cine EI is just forcing people to use t-stop & ND for exposure like they should have been doing.
seems like there is no video on youtube that could clearly explain how to use sony fx30 properly without saying to much unnecessary words including this video not to mention their adverts in their video starting even get confused and regret getting fx30
😁 Hey this video was colored with my presets that work great with CINE EI Mode: whoismatt.com/luts
I can confidently state that this is the ONLY video on youtube that explain CINE EI clearly. Thank you.
I don’t think anyone on TH-cam has understood the power of EI. I used to shoot on the Sony FS7 and understanding EI was vital to getting noise free images. Here’s why it’s important in a nut shell.
You’re shooting slog3. You want to over expose or, ‘expose to the right’ to keep your shadows out of the noise floor. (Not so important on these new cameras, but vital on the FS7). But when you do expose to the right the image on your LCD is too bright! If only there was a way to darken down your LCD without actually darkening your exposure. THAT IS WHAT EXPOSURE INDEXING IS FOR!!!.
You set your EI down. Make your screen look dark by 1 or 2 stops. Because it looks dark, you now should lighten your image, but not by touching the EI, leave that alone. Instead open the aperture or add light in. Now if it looks right on screen, even though your are at a minus EI, you will actually be over exposing your image, which in SLog3 is what you want.
So that’s it.
EI let’s you over expose, then turn your screen brightness down so it looks right while you’re rolling. That’s it. Simple.
Dude what you have explained is what like every fx6/fx3/fx30 user has been trying to understand and I feel like he didn’t explain any of that in this video. I shoot everything in my fx6 including weddings and have 0 issues with cine EI. If I do end up with some noisy shadows I just use neat to reduce it.
Wow. This explanation is god tier. Please pin this comment twice. Thank you!
@@PNWMOTIONNEAT is a life saver 😊
Omg I keep my monitor on brightest no wonder it all looks wrong in s log thank you!!!!
Explained clearly, in plain language. Thank you ! PS: Love how you cut in front of the other photographers at the wedding ! LOL. True professional !
Matt never misses , I’m eating turkey spaghetti at 10:30 pm trying to understand the difference before I set my fx30 that just came in… thank you !!!
Adjusting your ISO does the same exact thing as cranking the exposure slider in a video editing program - the camera possibly does it a little bit better/cleaner, but it's essentially the same thing. Cranking your ISO just adds noise, unless you bump it to the second native ISO. You either physically give this sensor more light or less light. Cine EI in my opinion is the best option for weddings because it's one less setting you can get wrong - since ISO is essentially locked to two settings, the only thing you can do is add or take away light. If you want to stick at 1/double frame rate (or as of the newest firmware update 180° shutter), then your only option is to stop up or stop down your aperture, which in my opinion can look great even at high apertures if you understand how to compose well.
I am fresher into this filed n this video I have watched couple of tines today and precisely tried to understand his each and every delivery of words and at the end, I must say...
Its worth to watch this video until you exactly understand as he delivers without using your mind.
Thank you Matt.
This was the first video that explained Cine EI in a quick and easy way! Thank you!
since i have the fx3 and i shoot weddings, im gonna continue using cine ei. i keep my iso at 12800 through out the entire indoor portion of a wedding and use nds when needed. definitely wouldn’t work the same way for the fx30 though with it only having a 2500 base
Not sure I understand, been trying to.. so in CI mode iso is fixed at one of two base ISO’s. I heard you say adjusting shutter speed is a way to adjust exposure, but shouldn’t shutter speed be fixed to double the frame rate? F stop is usually fixed for desired look aswell, so doesn’t that leave you with basically ND filters only?
where do I see / / where can I find visually - that I am overexposing by 1.7-2.0 stops? (FX6)
Thank for this! I watched a good amount of "easy" explanations and they were all still too complicated to understand. This really explained it in simple terms
Nice video Matt! Super helpful for creators
Cine ei quick can still be used like regular iso flex by using the catalyst plugin for premiere or software as it stores the (emulated iso metadata you was viewing when recording) and corrects the exposure in the software for you to compensate.
Thank you Matt! You confirmed what I’ve already been thinking, in that there’s no need to work in Cine EI, as I usually stick to the two base ISO’s (while in Flex ISO) but in those cases where I need 3200 for a min, I can quickly switch to it.
Appreciate your videos so much and share them to others who I know could benefit too. Much love man!
One of the best videos explaining Cine EI - thanks bro!
Can't thank you enough!! The Base ISO Switch buttons gonna save so much time/focus!
Como usuario de una Sony FX30 la mejor decisión que puedes tomar es usar CINE EI, y para los que dicen que es difícil editarlo yo utilizo los proxy como referencia de una exposición correcta en post. Esta vez no estoy de acuerdo con Matt.
Can you set a button on your camera that you can quickly switch between 800 and 2500 in flexible iso mode or is this only possibly with cine ei
Only possible in Cine ei
@@whoismatt okay cheers ! By the way you were a huge help getting my settings going and getting more familiar with my camera so thank you !
Great video, all the time I come back to your channel to get things clear
is it the same when i just use flexible iso with 800 or 2500 in fx30?
Yes
I use flexible ISO and it works perfectly. I have my A7RV essentially set up the same way. That way, no matter which camera I grab, it’s the same process to nail exposure.
It's a shame they haven't enabled CINE EI for the A7siii
They want people to buy the FX3 :(
@@Bathingwookie Yeah, this feature alone isn't worth selling my a7siii and buying an fx3. However, whenever I do upgrade I will look for a sony cam with this feature
A piece of tape with the native ISOs would be superior… you’d know what to use and break the rules when you like:)
@@Galgomite I would mainly want it so I can eyeball the exposure with an m lut when doing run and gun so I wouldn't need an external monitor. That being said, it's not a deal breaker for me at this time
Cine ei really helps in low light, and sony a7siii is alteady pretty decent there
thank you! I needed this video, just got my fx6 and was so confused when I used cine ei for rhe first time.
Thanks for video Matt. I think you missed the whole point of EXPOSURE INDEX here. If you use EI properly you can choose to see into the shadows or protect the highlights….which you simply can’t do with the normal ISO settings. Once you use EI for the purpose it was designed you will never look back. You will get better images than you ever have done before 👍 Again…great video
One big flaw with this is that CINE EI does not allow you to record internally and externally. I hate that, wish Sony would fix it. Until then, I'm using a custom PP for SLOG3. I lost footage when my Ninja stopped recording because it wasn't also doing an internal copy.
@Te.legramme-WhoisMattJohnson you think I’m stupid 🤣🤣🤣🤦♂️
Is the base ISO for slog3 still 640 if not using Cine EI? Has it changed with the firmware update?
I have this question, as well. I've still been using 640 as the base and not shooting in Cine EI. Not sure if I should be switching to 800 or not.
I’m pretty sure that the 2.0 firmware update for the fx3 changed the base iso to 800 for Cine ei. It’s really not a big deal if you choose 640 in flexible iso mode though, I wouldn’t expect to see any difference in footage quality between the two.
It’s my understanding that the only reason that Sony updated the fx3 iso to be 800 is that they wanted to bring the base iso in line with all of their other cameras
@@whoismatt Thanks Matt brother!
Super easy to understand! Great reasoning for why one might want to use it and also for why one would want to shoot Flexible ISO instead. Great video, dude!
Great.. but..
I still don't get it.. so if I use CINE EI (iso 800). i still need to overexpose 1.7 to 2 stops? or.. (MM +0.0)?
Finalmente alguém que explique com clareza.
You are a great teacher Matt - I actually learned something here and no, I'm not a bot people! Thanks a bunch brother
Súper helpful! I understand your take away. I just tried making a short video using the cine ei fixed iso version and the post took a LOT longer than the actual shooting and traveling to location 😅. Anyone want to critique my work I am super happy to hear your thoughts!
Matt, thanks for diving further into this. I have an FX30, A7IV and FS7. On the FX30, I've shot EI in horribly lit scenarios but it pulled through. I wonder if I would have had more post production lattitude in another ISO opposed to Cine ei. Furthermore, I've heard so many people say overexpose by 2 stops with the FX30. I know what you guys mean but like practically, I need to see this done. Can you hold the FX30 and show me what you mean when you overexpose by 2 stops etc. I plan on doing this in my own testing but it would be great to have your mind explain some things.
I don’t know why but no matter what my scenario cine , has never failed me . Even when not over exposed
Is there a difference between above native ISO and bumping exposure up in post? In other words, if I set my FX30 to 2500 and then brighten up to equivalent of 12800 in post, is that more noisy than filming in 12800? Because isn't the camera just digirally increasing exposure anyway (just like your editor)?
Yes
@@howtotaiwan1384 yes that bumping exposure in post is more noisy?
Matt have you ever done a FX6 “best settings” video? Kind of like what you’ve done for A7s3?
Nope but that's a good idea
I just got an FX6 .. you helped me so much with my A7s3. The menu system on the FX6 is a different beast for sure. Thanks in advance if you choose to take this on!
Not a Sony user, but had to watch this video a second time, just for the Audiio link.
Sounds like a good deal, and for the price I might as well check it out.
Great video!!! When you use flexible iso, does the base iso change to iso 640 instead of 800?
Thanks. This was really good. Question off topic. What lens for FX3 would you use to shoot a reception?
Matt, In one of your presentations you said when not to use Cine EI? When not to? and i am sdoing a object shot staged all lighting controlled, what settings would yu use to shoot it?
Do I need to think differently about the way I use false color with an FX3/30?
Still agree with the point but just wondering. Doesnt something like auto nd fix the problems you would have in post?
Great video 😊 no one has explained so well. Just one quick question, I’m new here, how do I change from L to H if I’m using EI?
Amazingly helpful. Hope to see more guides like this as a new Sony user
Can you tell me if this is correct? You only have 2 Base ISOs that you can choose from in Cine EI. When changing the EI values in your camera you're not actually changing anything with the exposure of your real image file... it only changes how you see the image in your monitor. The reason to adjust your EI values are only for you to see how to adjust the exposure through lighting, ND, or Aperture, So if you want clean shadows you lower your EI value. This darkens the scene in your monitor and you realize you need to bring in more lights for your subject to be properly exposed because everything has gotten darker. Then when you bring this footage into your grading software all looks overexposed. But you'll just bring down the exposure to correctly expose your subject and your shadows will be clean! Is this correct?
Whilst I appreciate the 1.7/2+ stop guide when metering - do you find the ability to monitor with luts on the FX3 far more accurate to 'what you see is what you get' compared to the gamma assist on the a7siii?
I really want to move from s-cinetone to s-log 3 when shooting my wedding films but don't currently feel confident without using the monitor with luts loaded, BUT I don't like using a monitor when shooting a wedding as I feel it's excess bulk (maybe I just need to get over that!)
You’re missing out on roughly 2 stops of dynamic range not shooting in SLOG3. Try starting with Flexible ISO. The SLOG3 footage is soooo good.
@@RandumbTech I've got the a7siii so it's essentially flexible ISO as there isn't an option for Cine EI - I'll definitely just practice until I find it comfortable to use on jobs - it's still a lovely image but like. you say the dynamic range difference is noticeable
@@joshholgate9425 Once you find your preferred LUT, color grading becomes super easy. All I do is fix the white balance, apply LUT (strength to taste), and make any necessary exposure changes. You got this!!!
Great explanation! I feel that Cine EI only makes sense- as you state- when you have a very controlled lighting environment. Otherwise you will have to use your Post software to boost or lower exposure (as you also correctly state) - and I would rather let my Sony do that internally - both because it is quicker to do it while shooting AND I think the camera can potentially do a better job of Noise Reduction and perhaps preserving the Dynamic Range a bit better...
What situations would you use iso 800 vs iso 2500?
You would only use 2500 if you absolutely can't get enough light.
I’m from the a7siii and used PP8 picture profile….and I recently upgraded to fx3 I don’t see a PP8 so I can shoot in slog3
Can I ask a question to some awesome knowledgeable commenter here? I’m super confused about something….
I have an FX30. To shoot in log, I understand I how to change it in “log settings,” yada yada yada.
But what’s the deal with Picture Profile via Exposure menu? Can’t I also shoot in log going this route? When I change to log shooting in log settings, picture profile is greyed out. Is picture profile just so you can plug in an additional monitor? Can someone explain this to me? Sorry for being a dingbat. 🙏🙏
beautiful video really nice, could you give us your export settings? I film with the SonyFx3 slog3cine and the new 4k dci but when I export in 1080 after a slight colorgrading the quality is horrible with pixels in the black thanks for your answer
So just to clarify, the base ISO's only advantage is that they offer a higher dynamic range? For some reason I thought the base ISOs were also the points at which the camera would have the least ISO noise possible, but could definitely be wrong on that.
Both true :)
Yes!!! Your video has FINALLY made it clear! Thank you!!! ❤😘
Thank you so much for this!!!!
great explanation about fx30 cinema mode
I cannot find these settings on my FX3 with 3.0 software version?
@whoismatt I shoot nature in fast-moving and dynamic light conditions so your suggestion for Flexible ISO makes a lot of sense. My starting point would be set speed to 125 (60fps), set aperture to 6 - 9 (shallow depth of field does not help) and set ISO to automatic. I also have a variable neutral density filter for improving on the auto ISO outcomes in very bright conditions. However what makes this not work is that I cannot change Minimum ISO below 800 with these settings. Similarly if I change to manual ISO I cannot go below 800. My ISO Range (set elsewhere) is 50 - 32000 so I don't get what is happening. Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.
if you look up sony's video on how to use S-log3 and CineEI they said CineEI is for studio workflow, where you have control over your lights
I'm still a complete noob. But shooting in winter condition with a lot of snow. A lot of sun. Would you recommend cine Ei or not? The footage seems great. But I'm still need to learn a lot
Hasn’t ETTR been discouraged for cinematography? It results in inconsistent noise from shot to shot, which can be jarring, and also tends to result in less consistency of exposure such that every shot needs its own grade.
When I turn into Flexible ISO it starts from 640. Supposedly that kills DR right? so I should stick to 800?
Yes, we need MM 1.3-1.7 but what should I aim ?
Great video as always
Helpful! Thanks Matt!
Matt, why are we over exposing by that much. Seems like that would blow out any highlights? Also, is this just for Slog3? Would you do it for S-Cinetone?
Hey Adam! I have an SLOG3 tutorial video that explains my reasoning for recommending overexposing. :) CINE EI mode is just for slog3. For s cinetone just expose 0.0 to 0.3 or so.
@@whoismatt Thank you!
Great video Matt! Thanks! Question: If I'm a good boy and I'm diligent in (manually) staying with the 2 base ISOs WITHOUT using a Cine EI mode will I achieve the same results/dynamic range as exposing using Cine EI?
Yes
Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhh…I finally get it 😅. Thanks, Matt!
Thanks a lot for ur perfect explanation 🙏🏻🥳
What picture profile are you using after the update?
Is it true with FX3 and FX30 that if you start at the base ISO and with flexible ISO intelligently decide if you need more dynamic range in the lows or high and move the iso value lower or higher to give you more dynamic range below or above middle gray? I understand base ISO is maximum but if I don’t have anything really bright in my scene and I’d rather prioritize below middle gray dynamic range, I lower the ISO. Sony tech works this way, right?
Hello, when you are in flexible ISO mode on the FX3 and you use the dial to set it to 12,000 ISO, does it automatically switch to high ISO, or are you still in low ISO at 12,000? nice Video :P
thanks for the great explanation!
Honestly I'm confused what the purpose of the EI toggle even is if the footage isn't recorded with those settings and stays in one of the two base ISOs instead. Am I missing something?
THX Matt, his video made it clear
I’ve never gone that high in ISO on my a7iv or fx3. Are you still overexposing 1-2 stops when cranking that high? Sounds nerve wracking haha.
really nice video!
No Matt, THANK YOU for doing this great video about my baby girl fx30. You rock. Cheers from Quito, Ecuador.
So if I stick to flex iso 800 and 12800, it will still give me the best dynamic range right?
Yes
I think it's too complicated to be aware of all that, I think a lumix gh6 with V-log is better for run and gun and just put the color editing in a single layer without the need to go clip by clip. What do you think in this case? the lumix would be better but I would have to use it without autofocus?
Thanks for the video, Matt. I'm a little confused though. It appears that whether I am in Cine EI or Cine EI Quick changing the ISO is reflected on my LCD from 640 up to 10000. The only difference I see is that Quick EI will automatically switch from L to H based on the Base ISO switch that is set in Exposure/Color > 1 menu. This is on the Fx30. It doesn't give an option to only show 800 and 2500 in Cine EI mode unless I am missing something?
If you are in Cine EI you are either in ISO 800 or 2500 (fx30). You cannot change to any other ISO. The camera will not allow it. By your description, what you are changing is the EI.
Wow yes, sometimes I have to crank it to ISO 102400
The only video of fabulous Matt that really misses the mark. CINE EI does not just lock you into the two base ISO’s. It’s is far more flexible than that regarding retention on the best dynamic range and control of noise.
Matt always coming to the rescue.
You missed a huge part of Cine EI. you can use CineEI to redistribute the camera sensor's dynamic range between the highlights and shadows. This is exactly how other cinema camera's like the RED camera's operate.
What picture profile should you use in flexible iso?
Do you have any LUTS designed for dark skin people?
Hey! I’ve tested my luts with darker skin tones as well :)
@@whoismatt Awesome! I'm going to get em!
This cine EI is just crazy to use. Getting correct exposure is far more important than base ISO. Because we are working in a baked in format, you don't have the flexibility like you have in raw.
Noise is overrated and only lives in the blacks. Also when compressed it is not as controlable. Better to have the exposure right and live with a little noise than bring up the blacks from underexpose which will be noisy. I recommend don't use this in cameras that don't have inbuilt ND filters. Remember we still need to follow the 180 degree rules for natural movement blur, therefore you shouldn't be touching the shutter speed. This is an insanely bad feature to put in cameras without NDs.
Couldn’t you just use a Nisi Variable ND filter for exposure with Cine Ei? Wouldn’t trust the other cheaper brands though.
Thank you brother!
Increasing Iso in Camera above the native Iso is a kind of fake. You get the same Result using the base Iso and raising it up in post.
Except the camera internally may do a better job of noise reduction and preserving dynamic range than your post program can - hopefully Sony has tweaked it's processing to be optimal for the specific camera....
@@Nypics I use Neat Video. When I compare my Fx6 Footage with highly compressed Noise Reduction in camera with noise Reduced Footage with Neat: Neat is the much better choice.
Actually it’s quite the opposite. You should definitely dial CineEI to get the look that toy want. Don’t leave it at 800. When you are not using CineEI you are letting the camera make that decision for you. Cine EI gives you the option to decide in post. Keep cine EI at 640 o lower to get sweet clean slog3 overexposed to taste
10 other videos did not explain what you did so quickly around 2:50 or so. lol. Yes the other 10 videos helped. But I'm like...don't use quick use regular and here's why. ::)
Iso isn’t an exposure tool. Raise exposure in post & will have the same noise as having an higher iso. Cine EI is just forcing people to use t-stop & ND for exposure like they should have been doing.
Nice infomation
thank you
You’re the best
Ah, I already know what my base ISOs are, and use them.
Why would you want it so overexposed? 1.7 to 2 stops over seems like a lot to aim for
I don’t like the fact that using CINE EI limits what you can change like details, black levels, etc..
seems like there is no video on youtube that could clearly explain how to use sony fx30 properly without saying to much unnecessary words including this video not to mention their adverts in their video
starting even get confused and regret getting fx30
THank you
Just use scinetone
😂