I actually have a video of a noise because the hydraulic tensioner has failed and it made it sound like a rod knock. I rec. To do the timing belt with the new tensioner and the customer declined and took the car and left.
I own a 06 TL 190k miles and purchased this in May 2023 with 171k miles and in Sep 2023 with 179k miles I took in for timing belt replacement because it was making rattle noise in colder weather during first start up of the day and it was the hydraulic tensioner, they changed the belt, tensioner, water pump, water pump wasn't leaking but I emphasized that also during a cold start what sounding like a pully bearing was making some noise like one would with a plastic pully and I was rite, it was the water pump making an extra noise and probly could've seized, engine is doing fine I'm glad I had the service done but it didn't have valve adjustment and I think it could benefit from it, I'm sure it's never been done, I changed the spark plugs which were very difficult to unthread but new ones NGK went in just fine, I'd like to do ( check and adjust ) the valves because I bearly notice some difference how it ran before the service was done, believe it made just a little more peak power but not enough to complain about so that's were I believe it could benefit from valve adjustment, motor sounds pretty quiet but I can only hear a hint of the valves opening/closing, Nice video
The other reason why we do valve adjustment is to prevent the valves from burning up we actually had a similar year tl my neighbor working beside me had to remove the cylinder on a TL because it burned up a valve on bank 2. So valve adjustment are important because how those valves dissipate heat is contact through the valve seat on the cylinder head if the valves are to tight they can't cool. And you can get fuel trim codes. To loose they get noisy.
I did the timing belt and water pump on my 2007 Honda Accord V6, and surprised how similar these newer engines look compared to my J30A5. Big difference I noticed the PCM in that weird location, where the power steering pump was on mine.
I found on the earthdreams v6 that the harness is very easy to detach and flip over to the driver side of the engine making the valve covers far easier to remove. Then the injector module is gone and the mount is easier to remove from the engine.
I've chatted online with another Honda tech who also said that the water pump and pulleys don't usually need to be replaced on the first timing belt change. But tensioner yes, even though the service manual only says to inspect and change it if it's leaking.
Damn front struts are always leaking on these gens. For a first time DIYer, do you recommend removing the plugs to make it easier to love the crank and cams?
They're gas filled struts usually the gas leaks out and makes a hollow thumping noise when going over bump same with the Honda pilots. And then the fluid starts leaking out and the noise goes away but the SUV gets bouncy. Depends if you're doing the spark plug valve adjustment. Sometimes people will just do the timing belt and then the spark plug valve adjustment another time to separate the cost of the symbol 4 maintenance. But just the timing belt I just leave the spark plugs in when rotating the crank.
Regardless of whether or not the WP is leaking it should be replaced as well as the pulleys. You said why go through all that work and not change those parts. If that WP springs a leak, the customer is going to wonder why it wasn't changed while everything was apart. The Aisin kit comes with everything you need.
Honda does not use kits every Honda tech will know this all timing components are sold individually. Water pump is inspect and replace if necessary. If you have done enough T-belts on Honda V6 they don't typically leak if you follow the 100k miles or 7 years which ever comes first. I've seen belts break more than water pumps leak and even after the second T-belts change. I said that because the hydraulic tensioner always leak kind of like a weak point since customers will decline replacing the hydraulic tensioner.
Another killer video! Does Honda recommend changing out the T belt due to age? My Dad has a 2014 Ridgeline with only 58k kms, sure would be a shame if that let go
By age I believe is 7years by mileage is 165k kms. Like anything that has rubber in it over time it will dry harden and crack. It's the teeth on the belt that comes apart as they take the most load in turning those sprockets.
You should see the new pilots the filter design is even worse I should do a shorts on how the oil filter has moved with each generation of pilot. The new one is further in and right up against the block and you can't put anything under it to prevent it from getting all over the skid plate because the oil just run down the side of the block.
@@theoffroadingmechanic a big bump and the oil filter may hit the control arm or when the motor mounts fail the oil filter will drop. I’ve noticed Honda designs has gotten worse. another example is the brake bleeder screw the rear being a different size from the front. that’s what american cars are like. i guess honda is an american design and made car now. so sad.
about "customer declining recommended service". look. there are numerous shady dealers out there; people dont trust them anymore; I personally, whish we could see bits and pieces of what is wrong with my vechicle to actually understand why is the service department recommending, but when you ask service advisor to explain they 'dont know'; and rarely the customer can approach the mechanic directly; this is the experience of taking a vehicle to the mechanic nowdays; there is a wall between the customer and the mechanic. Also, you mention some apprentice dammaging threads of the engine mount accidentaly; I am aware they have to learn somehow but reallity is my vehicle I dont want an apprentice to work on it on a timing belt job for instance.
I can vouch for that apprentice and he has done way more transmissions, headgasket, and diagnosis than any mechanic that has just gotten their license. The bolts for the mounts pull threads regardless if it was a license mechanic doing the job it is bound to happen it's not the apprentices fault it's how you fix it is what matters. If you ever work on a ford 4,5,3 valve triton V8 that breaks spark plugs when changing them they are bound to happen. A lot of mechanic don't want to talk to the customer as they are all flat rate and aren't getting paid to do that. Advisors will spend half an hr listening to a customer sometimes. Would you rather have a license mechanic that never done a timing belt do the job or an experienced apprentice that has done many timing belts and is able to fix a known problem from the get go. I was an apprentice once and I did everything that a mechanic can or should be able to do and that is what made me what I am today you learn grow and you get better at your job.
9:53 "... people decline timing belt...." These stories never cease to amaze me.
I actually have a video of a noise because the hydraulic tensioner has failed and it made it sound like a rod knock. I rec. To do the timing belt with the new tensioner and the customer declined and took the car and left.
th-cam.com/video/kKHophlTBCU/w-d-xo.html this would be the video.
best demo ands explanation on the " feel " of feeler gauge , better than video of ETC guy
Great job. I have a 2011 Pilot with 256k, R-Red belt, tensioner, w-pump at 160k, still about 60k to go. Runs quiet and smooth.
I own a 06 TL 190k miles and purchased this in May 2023 with 171k miles and in Sep 2023 with 179k miles I took in for timing belt replacement because it was making rattle noise in colder weather during first start up of the day and it was the hydraulic tensioner, they changed the belt, tensioner, water pump, water pump wasn't leaking but I emphasized that also during a cold start what sounding like a pully bearing was making some noise like one would with a plastic pully and I was rite, it was the water pump making an extra noise and probly could've seized, engine is doing fine I'm glad I had the service done but it didn't have valve adjustment and I think it could benefit from it, I'm sure it's never been done, I changed the spark plugs which were very difficult to unthread but new ones NGK went in just fine, I'd like to do ( check and adjust ) the valves because I bearly notice some difference how it ran before the service was done, believe it made just a little more peak power but not enough to complain about so that's were I believe it could benefit from valve adjustment, motor sounds pretty quiet but I can only hear a hint of the valves opening/closing, Nice video
The other reason why we do valve adjustment is to prevent the valves from burning up we actually had a similar year tl my neighbor working beside me had to remove the cylinder on a TL because it burned up a valve on bank 2. So valve adjustment are important because how those valves dissipate heat is contact through the valve seat on the cylinder head if the valves are to tight they can't cool. And you can get fuel trim codes. To loose they get noisy.
@theoffroadingmechanic thanks, I'll look to do this soon
Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Thank you for this. Gives me confidence to do mine. Godbless you Sir!
You're welcome, if you need more confidence here's another video.
th-cam.com/video/518agDXuxeQ/w-d-xo.html
I did the timing belt and water pump on my 2007 Honda Accord V6, and surprised how similar these newer engines look compared to my J30A5. Big difference I noticed the PCM in that weird location, where the power steering pump was on mine.
I found on the earthdreams v6 that the harness is very easy to detach and flip over to the driver side of the engine making the valve covers far easier to remove. Then the injector module is gone and the mount is easier to remove from the engine.
I've chatted online with another Honda tech who also said that the water pump and pulleys don't usually need to be replaced on the first timing belt change. But tensioner yes, even though the service manual only says to inspect and change it if it's leaking.
Good to know . Thank you for your videos
You have to loosen the tensioner to take off the belt anyways, it's another 5 minutes.
It's the additional cost of the OEM tensioner people don't want to pay for.
@@theoffroadingmechanicOEM tensioner is made by Aisin
Right side leaking struts are common. That's the the side people run off of two lane roads. When you get to 61 you will have seen about everything. 😢
Damn front struts are always leaking on these gens. For a first time DIYer, do you recommend removing the plugs to make it easier to love the crank and cams?
They're gas filled struts usually the gas leaks out and makes a hollow thumping noise when going over bump same with the Honda pilots. And then the fluid starts leaking out and the noise goes away but the SUV gets bouncy. Depends if you're doing the spark plug valve adjustment. Sometimes people will just do the timing belt and then the spark plug valve adjustment another time to separate the cost of the symbol 4 maintenance. But just the timing belt I just leave the spark plugs in when rotating the crank.
Regardless of whether or not the WP is leaking it should be replaced as well as the pulleys. You said why go through all that work and not change those parts. If that WP springs a leak, the customer is going to wonder why it wasn't changed while everything was apart.
The Aisin kit comes with everything you need.
Honda does not use kits every Honda tech will know this all timing components are sold individually. Water pump is inspect and replace if necessary. If you have done enough T-belts on Honda V6 they don't typically leak if you follow the 100k miles or 7 years which ever comes first. I've seen belts break more than water pumps leak and even after the second T-belts change. I said that because the hydraulic tensioner always leak kind of like a weak point since customers will decline replacing the hydraulic tensioner.
DO you know which year of honda pilot onwards they use hydralific lifters that manual vallve adjustment.
2023 went to hydraulic lifters and no more valve covers to remove. It's all silicones and the "valve covers" are the cam caps.
Another killer video!
Does Honda recommend changing out the T belt due to age? My Dad has a 2014 Ridgeline with only 58k kms, sure would be a shame if that let go
By age I believe is 7years by mileage is 165k kms. Like anything that has rubber in it over time it will dry harden and crack. It's the teeth on the belt that comes apart as they take the most load in turning those sprockets.
How much do they charge for that job?
In Canada maintenance are set by the manufacture. So there won't be any difference in pricing for a V6 sub 4 job. If your in the US I don't know.
seems to be a bad design to have the oil filter so close to the lower control arm that moves.
You should see the new pilots the filter design is even worse I should do a shorts on how the oil filter has moved with each generation of pilot. The new one is further in and right up against the block and you can't put anything under it to prevent it from getting all over the skid plate because the oil just run down the side of the block.
It's over the subframe.
@@theoffroadingmechanic a big bump and the oil filter may hit the control arm or when the motor mounts fail the oil filter will drop. I’ve noticed Honda designs has gotten worse. another example is the brake bleeder screw the rear being a different size from the front. that’s what american cars are like. i guess honda is an american design and made car now. so sad.
@@HiFiInsider The Pilot and Odyssey are designed by Honda America for the North American market. Maybe that explains the trend.
It’s all about the $$$$, us as the consumers get the shaft.
about "customer declining recommended service". look. there are numerous shady dealers out there; people dont trust them anymore; I personally, whish we could see bits and pieces of what is wrong with my vechicle to actually understand why is the service department recommending, but when you ask service advisor to explain they 'dont know'; and rarely the customer can approach the mechanic directly; this is the experience of taking a vehicle to the mechanic nowdays; there is a wall between the customer and the mechanic. Also, you mention some apprentice dammaging threads of the engine mount accidentaly; I am aware they have to learn somehow but reallity is my vehicle I dont want an apprentice to work on it on a timing belt job for instance.
I can vouch for that apprentice and he has done way more transmissions, headgasket, and diagnosis than any mechanic that has just gotten their license. The bolts for the mounts pull threads regardless if it was a license mechanic doing the job it is bound to happen it's not the apprentices fault it's how you fix it is what matters. If you ever work on a ford 4,5,3 valve triton V8 that breaks spark plugs when changing them they are bound to happen. A lot of mechanic don't want to talk to the customer as they are all flat rate and aren't getting paid to do that. Advisors will spend half an hr listening to a customer sometimes. Would you rather have a license mechanic that never done a timing belt do the job or an experienced apprentice that has done many timing belts and is able to fix a known problem from the get go. I was an apprentice once and I did everything that a mechanic can or should be able to do and that is what made me what I am today you learn grow and you get better at your job.