Great job, I replaced my cable and the handle comes out of the mounting tube. Like you I do not read through the instructions and skipped the step of cutting the cable to the proper length. I’m glad I watched your video first
Have to do this cable replacement on 4 valves, hope that fixes the issue. Thank you for the video, they sure don't like to run these cables straight from the factory which would help.
Awesome for filming that while working with one hand. The newer valves have openings on the side. Now I see why. Good call on relocating the bracket, will be nice to have it further from the slide out too. I don't know why they put these handles under the slide outs so much. Gotta crawl under there to drain the tanks when you're seasonal. Ty for the upload.
Excellent video on how to do this seemingly daunting task! Thanks very much for this. You did an excellent job with the filming and explanations. I just tore my 2020 Winnebago 2500FL apart to replace or fix this cable. I struggled for over an hour trying to find the head of the Allen screw in which you have inserted the Allen key at time stamp 3:23 in your video. The silver cylinder that I expected to see the head of the Allen screw had no holes whatsoever. There was no hole nor Allen head visible below the slot. I put a cell phone above the slot using the camera in selfie mode and it wasn't visible from above either. After examining it for a long time I discovered that the silver cylinder block is threaded on to the solid rod that goes back to move the valve. Being threaded, I wondered if I could rotate it to reveal the Allen screw. Twisting the cable had no effect so I inserted a flat screwdriver into the plastic slot below the cylinder and was able to twist it enough to reveal the Allen screw. Eureka! I was then able to unscrew the Allen screw and remove the cable. I also noticed there is a small, longish Allen screw in the plastic block that is attached to the valve end of the cable which needs to be removed in order to shorten the cable. After removing the entire cable assembly I pulled the cable out, flattened the handle-end shaft with a hammer and file, cleaned it with carburetor cleaner and re-greased it. I can now slide it in and out by pulling on the narrow shaft with my fingers. It would probably work well, the tight curves left in the cable by Winnebago's installation notwithstanding. My cable is 72" long and coiled in one completed loop before attaching to the valve. The valve is only about 3 feet away from where the handle is mounted. Not to Valterra's specifications, I suspect. I will order a new cable to install and keep the old one for a spare. My original cable got damaged when some n'er-do-wells yanked my black valve open while we were staying at a Cracker Barrel in Abilene, Texas. Thanks a ton for taking the time to make this video!
Just picked up a 2019 Coachmen Freedom Express 321 this weekend. The gray valve is stuck closed and I believe the cable has come loose. This video has helped me out tremendously in understanding how I can repair the problem. Thank you so much!
Thanks! I did the same thing and pushed the stuck valve to hard and bent it and was not successful in trying to straighten it out! your video broke it down clearly, mystery solved!
Excellent video. It's amazing how you managed to describe the process during the disassembly and reassembly. Unfortunately, I too have to replace the valve.
I have the exact situation with the cable making tight S curves. Pull down the coroplast and bam, found myself watching your video. Thanks for doing this!
Good job. The cable came loose from the valve on my grey water and wasn’t sure if it could be fixed or if I would have to replace valve and cable assembly. So now I’m armed with some great info.
If I could give you 50 thumbs up I would. This tutorial helped me immensely. I thought, however, I was in trouble when there was no visible allen locking screw. When I pulled the cable/handle through the bracket and rotated it, I saw it. took a couple of tries to figure out it took a 3/16" allen wrench. Came out easily. I had the same problem you had. I had bent the tube which slides back and forth into the bracket. I table vised it and got it straight enough to use until a new part is purchased. However, I don't think Ill put the new one on until the fixed version gets stuck/bent again. I think the design flaw is the bracket welded to the frame of the trailer is too flexible. Just a theory. Great video and thanks for the help....!
Thanks Bee Bee. This is the second of your videos that has helped me figure out a repair. 1st was the pilot fog light repair. Figured I would share my experience. This forum helped me figure out how to locate the allen key cable retention nut as well. Had to twist the cable a bit to rotate everything and bring the nut into view. After loosing the nut, the cable would not pull out, it was kinked and stuck. I would have broken something had I pulled any harder. Had to then remove the whole plastic casing around the cable clamp, grab the cable with needle nose and twist it out. Big pain in the ass, but now I know. This will get me back on the road as all our rv places are backed up with new campers breaking stuff in this year of our covid. Cheers!
I read somewhere that we can pour cheap vegetable oil down the when the tank is empty to lubricate the vale, which helps the cable to work. When I dismantled a large part of structural members of my trailer to install a new floor, I saw how poorly my expensive 5th wheel was built. I was shocked. I doubt anything is really built to spec. Good job straightening out that cable.
Awesome video, great instruction. I about wet my pants when you said something to the effect that you don't understand why the factory would do something like this. LOL! I have re-attached flexible furnace ductwork that was taped to a plenum with 2" of duct tape (of course it fell off), a 2" hose duct that was as tight as a banjo string (of course it also fell off), grossly undersized C-channel bars to support 2 of my holding tanks which caused one to split and leak because it sagged so much, and on and on. And when I removed the Coroplast to get to my tanks, about 43 wires, 4 hydraulic hoses, and 3 plumbing hoses just fell almost to the ground. Many cable-ties later...
I feel your pain! In this Coachmen Chaparral product I’ve been pretty happy. On my previous Heartland product I had all the same issues you are having. All trailers are built too fast nowadays.
I’m in the midst of this repair currently. I found cutting the steel cable housing very difficult to cut to the desired length. Couple of tries before I figured it out. I had an extreme bend as well which was the root cause of my failure. Goes to show how the manufacturer’s just slap these together and not care. Now I have to deal with it. For me, I just had to flip the gate 180 degrees and it’s a straight throw now….
Issue popped up on a Winnebago facebook post. Should help a few. Do think think it might be a good idea to lube the valve while you had it apart. Something like a fine spray lube that won't harm the plastic?
I did end up spraying on a non-liquid graphite spray at the end of season last year. Only on the metal shaft though. Not the valve itself though. Never thought of that.
Good Evening... Great video.. how did you determine where the valve was under the underbelly? Was it it lucky guess or did you have a diagram of your unit?? Thank you
I just looked at the plumbing coming down to determine tank location, and knew that there's no way an RV mfg would spend more money than needed on extra plumbing. LOL. So I knew the tank was above, and that the valve would be there. I then went to the first accessible "seam" and disassembled the underbelly paneling.
@Bee Bee how did you trim the outer part of the cable to expose the wire inside? They sell them so long the shorter the better. I need to do this someone too so glad you posted this video so helpful!
Hi William. Once I knew the length of the outer cable that I wanted, I retracted the inner cable so that it was FAR out of the way. I didn't want to cut it by accident. Then I used a pair of lineman's pliers (better than a side cutter IMO) to cut the armored sheath. Once that was done and I had the proper outer sheath length, I pushed the inner cable all the way through again. This is when I used the coat hanger to determine the length of wire I wanted "sticking out" of the armor sheath. Once I knew that length, I measured a couple times to be sure and snipped the inner cable (so it stuck out a few inches from the sheath). Hope that makes sense!
Thank you for your very helpful video on how to replace a Black Tank Valve. I was wanting to know why you wouldn't have considered just replacing the "VALVE SEALS"? Not that it made the job any easier or nicer, just cheaper. Thank you and have a good day. Betty
bob sardinski my issue was the handle getting bent...could no longer actuate the valve. This handle and cable are one piece. It wasn’t seal related but you would get at them the same way I got to this valve.
Good info. My vale is hard to actuate and something will break eventually. I took the panel cover off from the rear of my valve hanle area, can see the cable and tuve but the valves are much beeper in the bowels of my trailer. I am a livaboard so every week I sweat the Dumping of the Black Tank. I need to do a more intimate dis-assembly of the underbelly----Mikey
@@beebee7999 Not done yet, thought I would just lube the cables but one of them snapped in half while moving it in and out, frayed cable. Ordered two new ones, waiting for delivery.
If the handle doesn’t pull out they can bind easily with a bit of sand in there. Horribly bind. So much that they are 100% seized. But if it’s just the cable not pulling out of the valve assembly end, it must still be clamped by a set screw or something, I would think. Good luck!
Wait, you had the habdle closed but attached in the open position correct? So when you went to open it, wouldn't it not have just opened the valve further or really not moved it at all?
Thanks for posting this I am a woman on my own and my grey tank pulley snapped! This looks complicated for me to do on my own; so, would i just need a new cable? I would like to replace the whole system but dont know where to start. I live in a Cottage from Cedar Creek USA down in little New Zealand i hope you can suggest what to do. The black and grey tanks are plumbed in
I’m sorry I missed this comment Noeleen! Yes, you *probably* just need a new cable. I’m in Canada, so I cannot recommend anyone in the USA. However, you might want to look for RV forums on facebook. They’re always helpful. There are forums for owners of Heartland RVs, forums for Rockwood RVs, Chaparral/Coachmen RVs, etc. I bet if you can find a forum for your brand, there will be people in your area who can provide a bit of direction.
I see I have a thumbs down rating here. I know I am not a professional videographer but I would love to know if I did something wrong? Feel free to post a comment on what you feel I should “not” do. I can take constructive feedback and we can all learn from it too.
Haters are everywhere hahaha, great video 👍 It looks like you have a Lasalle Bristol Dump Valve and you replaced the cable with a Valterra cable? Is that correct? The reason I ask is because I have the same dump valve but I can’t find a cable locally. Thanks for the video 👍
I work in professional video production. And yes your video was shaky, but I can assure you that the content and info you provided were so valuable that it completely outweighs any issues with the video! LOL thank you so much for this video, You're getting a thumbs up from me.
@@macr88 Yes, you are correct. The original valve was a Bristol. One thing that differentes the Bristol and the Valterra is the shape of the end of the cable where it attaches to the valve. The Bristol has a U shaped bend where the hex screw is inserted to keep the cable from pulling out of the actuator. The Valterra (as you saw in the video) is a straight cable that is inserted into a round actuator. It would be interesting to see if that Valterra cable comes out of the Bristol actuator as its really not made for that valve.
@@TheMinnow101 I have yet to replace mine hahaha, cable has been sitting in the storage compartment. I was able to break mine free and sorta fix it, I just use pliers instead of the crappy plastic handles that keep breaking. Got some aluminum ones but they’re sitting in the same spot as the cable :)
Well, this video is fantastic. I'm currently trying to figure out if the cable to the valve is broken and this showed me how to get there. My biggest problem is the black tank is full to the brim. I don't know if the drain valve is stuck or plugged. Gonna be interesting to say the least. Anybody got a spare snorkel?
Excellent job. I am getting ready to embark on repairing my own black water cable and or valve. I was curious what I was going to be getting into and found this very informative video. Thank you for posting this it was a great help. P.S. about at the 8:36 mark on the video Did I see an LED Light under your trailer and inside the cora-last? I love lights even more when they are LED. Great Job
So sorry I missed this comment. Yes, I would only do this with empty tanks. I didn’t access internal seals to be able to live, however. How did you make out on yours?
@@beebee7999 I didn't have to change it. I drilled a small hole in the valve and filled it with grease and put a screw in the hole and it works easy now. I will see how long it lasts. Thanks for the follow up!
Interesting. When I pulled the cable out, it did not have a bend. I simply reinserted the cable and clamped it with the screw. It’s held for 3+ years now. Is your thought process to create a small “pocket” for the screw to sit in? Mine didn’t seem to need it and snuggled up tightly.
@@beebee7999 yes. I saw it on another video for the Valterra style of gate valve that is enclosed. Perhaps they changed their style and connections so it's no longer needed.
I removed screws that anchored the underbelly into a board running across. I did make a slice when mounting the new handle, and then taped it afterwards. I try to cut as little as possible under an RV. Sorry I missed this comment for so long!
Im 52, and a single chubby lady lol. Im going to tackle this next week because the mobile people want $405 to travel to me and $135 an hr for the repair. I too bent the handle and have a new 2022 chapparel 3 months old. Cant get a warranty appointment to save my life.
Thanks so much Bee Bee, was looking for a video which showed a disassembly of this very part of the valve. I think the cable might be broken on my valve as it won't open. At least I hope that's the problem with my poo storage/removal system.
I wish that someone could confirm if this is in fact true. Can a Valterra cable be used with a Lasalle Bristol valve? If so, this could save me some money if I ever have to replace my cable again.
I found this on a forum: “I don't see why a replacement Valterra Cable like part # TC72PB wouldn't work as a replacement for your Lasalle Bristol valve but officially it hasn't been tested so we can't say with total certainty. We've asked Valterra this in the past and this is what they told us.” I also saw someone else say “buy a cable on Amazon and if it won’t work, return it”. 🤷🏻♂️
I joined a lot of RV forums a few years back, and started a spreadsheet of issues. It's funny - it's obvious which have more problems than others. I chose this brand as it had fewer issues. But yup, all fast and cheap nowadays. And yet we still buy them. But it does provide perspective - the more you spend, the more issues you have. The quality at a higher price is often the same - you just have a larger unit and more space, more slides, and more stuff to go wrong. It's quite scary, really. For that reason, folks, don't mortgage a trailer if you're shopping for a new one - remember, these things are NOT investments. The roll down the road at 65mph/ 110km/h and rattle and bounce and break.
Great job, I replaced my cable and the handle comes out of the mounting tube. Like you I do not read through the instructions and skipped the step of cutting the cable to the proper length. I’m glad I watched your video first
Can't believe I found someone who had the same problem that I did service is backed up for a month this video really really helped me out
Rex Avakian Glad to hear you found this helpful!
Have to do this cable replacement on 4 valves, hope that fixes the issue. Thank you for the video, they sure don't like to run these cables straight from the factory which would help.
Awesome for filming that while working with one hand. The newer valves have openings on the side. Now I see why. Good call on relocating the bracket, will be nice to have it further from the slide out too. I don't know why they put these handles under the slide outs so much. Gotta crawl under there to drain the tanks when you're seasonal. Ty for the upload.
Excellent video on how to do this seemingly daunting task! Thanks very much for this. You did an excellent job with the filming and explanations. I just tore my 2020 Winnebago 2500FL apart to replace or fix this cable. I struggled for over an hour trying to find the head of the Allen screw in which you have inserted the Allen key at time stamp 3:23 in your video. The silver cylinder that I expected to see the head of the Allen screw had no holes whatsoever. There was no hole nor Allen head visible below the slot. I put a cell phone above the slot using the camera in selfie mode and it wasn't visible from above either. After examining it for a long time I discovered that the silver cylinder block is threaded on to the solid rod that goes back to move the valve. Being threaded, I wondered if I could rotate it to reveal the Allen screw. Twisting the cable had no effect so I inserted a flat screwdriver into the plastic slot below the cylinder and was able to twist it enough to reveal the Allen screw. Eureka! I was then able to unscrew the Allen screw and remove the cable.
I also noticed there is a small, longish Allen screw in the plastic block that is attached to the valve end of the cable which needs to be removed in order to shorten the cable.
After removing the entire cable assembly I pulled the cable out, flattened the handle-end shaft with a hammer and file, cleaned it with carburetor cleaner and re-greased it. I can now slide it in and out by pulling on the narrow shaft with my fingers. It would probably work well, the tight curves left in the cable by Winnebago's installation notwithstanding. My cable is 72" long and coiled in one completed loop before attaching to the valve. The valve is only about 3 feet away from where the handle is mounted. Not to Valterra's specifications, I suspect.
I will order a new cable to install and keep the old one for a spare. My original cable got damaged when some n'er-do-wells yanked my black valve open while we were staying at a Cracker Barrel in Abilene, Texas.
Thanks a ton for taking the time to make this video!
Just picked up a 2019 Coachmen Freedom Express 321 this weekend. The gray valve is stuck closed and I believe the cable has come loose. This video has helped me out tremendously in understanding how I can repair the problem. Thank you so much!
Awesome (not the stuck part, but the helpful part). And gray is way better than poops. :)
Thanks! I did the same thing and pushed the stuck valve to hard and bent it and was not successful in trying to straighten it out! your video broke it down clearly, mystery solved!
Glad it worked for you! Who would have guessed poop-dumping-handles were such a pain for so many?!
Excellent video. It's amazing how you managed to describe the process during the disassembly and reassembly. Unfortunately, I too have to replace the valve.
Thanks Gene - feedback is much appreciated! Good luck with the valve. It's a "poopy job". LOL
Lol !! Really nice work! I thoroughly enjoyed watching someone OTHER than myself crawling under a trailer "figuring stuff out" :)
"No manual needed"...until it really breaks. Then deny doing it! :)
I have the exact situation with the cable making tight S curves.
Pull down the coroplast and bam, found myself watching your video.
Thanks for doing this!
I searched youtube for help on this, and found nothing...so I decided to make one for others. Glad that it helped!
@@beebee7999, I removed the stranded cable and replaced with solid steel cable. Placed them to accommodate a simple arcing curve and now they work.
Good job. The cable came loose from the valve on my grey water and wasn’t sure if it could be fixed or if I would have to replace valve and cable assembly. So now I’m armed with some great info.
If I could give you 50 thumbs up I would. This tutorial helped me immensely. I thought, however, I was in trouble when there was no visible allen locking screw. When I pulled the cable/handle through the bracket and rotated it, I saw it. took a couple of tries to figure out it took a 3/16" allen wrench. Came out easily. I had the same problem you had. I had bent the tube which slides back and forth into the bracket. I table vised it and got it straight enough to use until a new part is purchased. However, I don't think Ill put the new one on until the fixed version gets stuck/bent again. I think the design flaw is the bracket welded to the frame of the trailer is too flexible. Just a theory. Great video and thanks for the help....!
Glad this helped!
Sir you would be absolutely no use as a government employee!!
Not only did you replace what was broken but you fixed the problem!! 😉👍
Bahaha...
Thanks Bee Bee. This is the second of your videos that has helped me figure out a repair. 1st was the pilot fog light repair. Figured I would share my experience. This forum helped me figure out how to locate the allen key cable retention nut as well. Had to twist the cable a bit to rotate everything and bring the nut into view. After loosing the nut, the cable would not pull out, it was kinked and stuck. I would have broken something had I pulled any harder. Had to then remove the whole plastic casing around the cable clamp, grab the cable with needle nose and twist it out. Big pain in the ass, but now I know. This will get me back on the road as all our rv places are backed up with new campers breaking stuff in this year of our covid. Cheers!
Thx for the kind words! And too funny - RVs and fog lights. I just post random stuff, I guess. LOL. Sorry I missed this post comment for so long!
Excellent video....and most shot with only one hand!!!
Richard Ray Thank you!
Nice job,great thinking outside the box.
Thanks Ryan!
I read somewhere that we can pour cheap vegetable oil down the when the tank is empty to lubricate the vale, which helps the cable to work. When I dismantled a large part of structural members of my trailer to install a new floor, I saw how poorly my expensive 5th wheel was built. I was shocked. I doubt anything is really built to spec. Good job straightening out that cable.
Was your RV built as quickly and as cheaply as possible? Them you can rest assured that it was built to "spec".
Outstanding. Just a terrific video. Can't thank you enough for taking the time and going to all the trouble. Just terrific. Thank you
Thanks for the kind words Daniel. Much appreciated!
GREAT video. You helped me more than you know.
Awesome video, great instruction. I about wet my pants when you said something to the effect that you don't understand why the factory would do something like this. LOL! I have re-attached flexible furnace ductwork that was taped to a plenum with 2" of duct tape (of course it fell off), a 2" hose duct that was as tight as a banjo string (of course it also fell off), grossly undersized C-channel bars to support 2 of my holding tanks which caused one to split and leak because it sagged so much, and on and on. And when I removed the Coroplast to get to my tanks, about 43 wires, 4 hydraulic hoses, and 3 plumbing hoses just fell almost to the ground. Many cable-ties later...
I feel your pain! In this Coachmen Chaparral product I’ve been pretty happy. On my previous Heartland product I had all the same issues you are having. All trailers are built too fast nowadays.
Very nice for the first time at this job. I would have replaced the valve also, since you are right there.
The 12 in loop makes it feel like its springing
Great job and video. Ty
I’m in the midst of this repair currently. I found cutting the steel cable housing very difficult to cut to the desired length. Couple of tries before I figured it out. I had an extreme bend as well which was the root cause of my failure. Goes to show how the manufacturer’s just slap these together and not care. Now I have to deal with it. For me, I just had to flip the gate 180 degrees and it’s a straight throw now….
Issue popped up on a Winnebago facebook post. Should help a few. Do think think it might be a good idea to lube the valve while you had it apart. Something like a fine spray lube that won't harm the plastic?
I did end up spraying on a non-liquid graphite spray at the end of season last year. Only on the metal shaft though. Not the valve itself though. Never thought of that.
Good Evening... Great video.. how did you determine where the valve was under the underbelly? Was it it lucky guess or did you have a diagram of your unit?? Thank you
I just looked at the plumbing coming down to determine tank location, and knew that there's no way an RV mfg would spend more money than needed on extra plumbing. LOL. So I knew the tank was above, and that the valve would be there. I then went to the first accessible "seam" and disassembled the underbelly paneling.
Good video thank you for taking the time to make it. TH-cam has some really good videos.
Thank you, best video on this topic that I've found.
@Bee Bee how did you trim the outer part of the cable to expose the wire inside? They sell them so long the shorter the better. I need to do this someone too so glad you posted this video so helpful!
Hi William. Once I knew the length of the outer cable that I wanted, I retracted the inner cable so that it was FAR out of the way. I didn't want to cut it by accident. Then I used a pair of lineman's pliers (better than a side cutter IMO) to cut the armored sheath. Once that was done and I had the proper outer sheath length, I pushed the inner cable all the way through again. This is when I used the coat hanger to determine the length of wire I wanted "sticking out" of the armor sheath. Once I knew that length, I measured a couple times to be sure and snipped the inner cable (so it stuck out a few inches from the sheath). Hope that makes sense!
Thank you for your very helpful video on how to replace a Black Tank Valve.
I was wanting to know why you wouldn't have considered just replacing the "VALVE SEALS"?
Not that it made the job any easier or nicer, just cheaper.
Thank you and have a good day.
Betty
bob sardinski my issue was the handle getting bent...could no longer actuate the valve. This handle and cable are one piece. It wasn’t seal related but you would get at them the same way I got to this valve.
Great video I was looking on TH-cam for one and this was the only one that applied Thanks
Glad to hear this! Good luck!
Great video! I have the same problem! That was a great tip about moving the handle bracket. Thank you!!
did you find the cable for sale without having to pay for the whole valve? cant seem to find just the cable
Good info. My vale is hard to actuate and something will break eventually. I took the panel cover off from the rear of my valve hanle area, can see the cable and tuve but the valves are much beeper in the bowels of my trailer. I am a livaboard so every week I sweat the Dumping of the Black Tank. I need to do a more intimate dis-assembly of the underbelly----Mikey
Good luck!
Excellent job! Thank you for sharing.
Hope I have the same setup great video. Thanks
Very helpful, thanks!
Right to it, thanks brother!
Laying out in the driveway doing this right now, thanks for the video, I was wondering how that thing came apart.
Jack Johnson glad it helped! How did your project turn out?
@@beebee7999 Not done yet, thought I would just lube the cables but one of them snapped in half while moving it in and out, frayed cable. Ordered two new ones, waiting for delivery.
Thank you for sharing this video. I had a Handyman replace this, but he is stuck because the cable does not pull out. Any ideas why this would happen?
If the handle doesn’t pull out they can bind easily with a bit of sand in there. Horribly bind. So much that they are 100% seized. But if it’s just the cable not pulling out of the valve assembly end, it must still be clamped by a set screw or something, I would think. Good luck!
Wait, you had the habdle closed but attached in the open position correct? So when you went to open it, wouldn't it not have just opened the valve further or really not moved it at all?
Everything is installed in the closed (pushed in) position. Unless I'm misunderstanding the question?
Great job. Was wondering why the I couldn’t release end wire from valve. Allen key. Thank you.
Thanks for posting this I am a woman on my own and my grey tank pulley snapped! This looks complicated for me to do on my own; so, would i just need a new cable? I would like to replace the whole system but dont know where to start. I live in a Cottage from Cedar Creek USA down in little New Zealand i hope you can suggest what to do. The black and grey tanks are plumbed in
I’m sorry I missed this comment Noeleen! Yes, you *probably* just need a new cable. I’m in Canada, so I cannot recommend anyone in the USA. However, you might want to look for RV forums on facebook. They’re always helpful. There are forums for owners of Heartland RVs, forums for Rockwood RVs, Chaparral/Coachmen RVs, etc. I bet if you can find a forum for your brand, there will be people in your area who can provide a bit of direction.
I see I have a thumbs down rating here. I know I am not a professional videographer but I would love to know if I did something wrong? Feel free to post a comment on what you feel I should “not” do. I can take constructive feedback and we can all learn from it too.
Haters are everywhere hahaha, great video 👍
It looks like you have a Lasalle Bristol Dump Valve and you replaced the cable with a Valterra cable? Is that correct? The reason I ask is because I have the same dump valve but I can’t find a cable locally. Thanks for the video 👍
I work in professional video production. And yes your video was shaky, but I can assure you that the content and info you provided were so valuable that it completely outweighs any issues with the video! LOL thank you so much for this video, You're getting a thumbs up from me.
@@iamrubio thank you!
@@macr88 Yes, you are correct. The original valve was a Bristol. One thing that differentes the Bristol and the Valterra is the shape of the end of the cable where it attaches to the valve. The Bristol has a U shaped bend where the hex screw is inserted to keep the cable from pulling out of the actuator. The Valterra (as you saw in the video) is a straight cable that is inserted into a round actuator. It would be interesting to see if that Valterra cable comes out of the Bristol actuator as its really not made for that valve.
@@TheMinnow101 I have yet to replace mine hahaha, cable has been sitting in the storage compartment.
I was able to break mine free and sorta fix it, I just use pliers instead of the crappy plastic handles that keep breaking. Got some aluminum ones but they’re sitting in the same spot as the cable :)
what a great video, very descriptive, just what I needed.
Glad it was helpful to you. Thx for the comment.
Well, this video is fantastic. I'm currently trying to figure out if the cable to the valve is broken and this showed me how to get there. My biggest problem is the black tank is full to the brim. I don't know if the drain valve is stuck or plugged. Gonna be interesting to say the least. Anybody got a spare snorkel?
Good luck with the repairs. And I’m a scuba diver too, so I highly recommend a mask and snorkel if you don’t have an air tank. ;)
Excellent job. I am getting ready to embark on repairing my own black water cable and or valve. I was curious what I was going to be getting into and found this very informative video. Thank you for posting this it was a great help. P.S. about at the 8:36 mark on the video Did I see an LED Light under your trailer and inside the cora-last? I love lights even more when they are LED. Great Job
ntaft0904 thank you. Glad it was helpful! Yup- LED lights are awesome!
On A scale of 1-10 this company is A 20 they are honest and dependable
Bee Bee, does the tanks have to be empty? Can I lubricate it after I take it apart?
I have to change mine out this weekend. Thank you!
So sorry I missed this comment. Yes, I would only do this with empty tanks. I didn’t access internal seals to be able to live, however.
How did you make out on yours?
@@beebee7999
I didn't have to change it. I drilled a small hole in the valve and filled it with grease and put a screw in the hole and it works easy now. I will see how long it lasts. Thanks for the follow up!
Needs the little bend on the tip you inserted in the cylinder at the valve. The screw goes in it when you tighten it down on the cable.
Interesting. When I pulled the cable out, it did not have a bend. I simply reinserted the cable and clamped it with the screw. It’s held for 3+ years now. Is your thought process to create a small “pocket” for the screw to sit in? Mine didn’t seem to need it and snuggled up tightly.
@@beebee7999 yes. I saw it on another video for the Valterra style of gate valve that is enclosed. Perhaps they changed their style and connections so it's no longer needed.
Awesome ! I need to re-route my Black tank cable too. Who can understand the design process?
Did you cut the underbelly corrugated sheet with a razor blade?
I removed screws that anchored the underbelly into a board running across. I did make a slice when mounting the new handle, and then taped it afterwards. I try to cut as little as possible under an RV. Sorry I missed this comment for so long!
Im 52, and a single chubby lady lol. Im going to tackle this next week because the mobile people want $405 to travel to me and $135 an hr for the repair. I too bent the handle and have a new 2022 chapparel 3 months old. Cant get a warranty appointment to save my life.
If you have a extended warranty try going through them
Great info!! Thank you!!
Glad it was helpful!
Great job, super helpful video.
Thanks so much Bee Bee, was looking for a video which showed a disassembly of this very part of the valve. I think the cable might be broken on my valve as it won't open. At least I hope that's the problem with my poo storage/removal system.
Ivan Patenaude glad it helped! Good luck with the poo-storage-removal system valves. :)
it looks like you used a valterra cable on Lasalle Bristol valve to me ?which i was searching everywhere to see if you could
I wish that someone could confirm if this is in fact true. Can a Valterra cable be used with a Lasalle Bristol valve? If so, this could save me some money if I ever have to replace my cable again.
I found this on a forum:
“I don't see why a replacement Valterra Cable like part # TC72PB wouldn't work as a replacement for your Lasalle Bristol valve but officially it hasn't been tested so we can't say with total certainty. We've asked Valterra this in the past and this is what they told us.”
I also saw someone else say “buy a cable on Amazon and if it won’t work, return it”. 🤷🏻♂️
They can't build the campers any cheaper. But they sure ain't cheap to buy!!!!
Average life of a camper is about 3 days after you pick it up. Cheap built shit. But hey it's the American way.
I joined a lot of RV forums a few years back, and started a spreadsheet of issues. It's funny - it's obvious which have more problems than others. I chose this brand as it had fewer issues. But yup, all fast and cheap nowadays. And yet we still buy them. But it does provide perspective - the more you spend, the more issues you have. The quality at a higher price is often the same - you just have a larger unit and more space, more slides, and more stuff to go wrong. It's quite scary, really. For that reason, folks, don't mortgage a trailer if you're shopping for a new one - remember, these things are NOT investments. The roll down the road at 65mph/ 110km/h and rattle and bounce and break.
I’m trying to do this but there are a lot of spider web under that cardboard😮, darn it! And the mobile repair guy wants $500 to fix it for me….🤬
This made me laugh so hard that coffee's on the computer. Spiders! UGH. lol
About to tackle this in a week, very simple and ripe with information, thank you sir!
Most welcome. Hope it went well!
Bravery is an over rated quality. Ask yourself : what could go wrong? Then back off, or forge ahead.