Be aware how deep the original seal was. Better to measure before replacing it. If you push the seal too deep than it could close an oil passage. The consequences will come a little bit later on.
That was the best. You don’t see this in the dealership anymore. These new technicians don’t know what their doing now a days. Great video. That’s how my auto shop teacher would have done it. With out some stupid over priced tool.
Hey man, Nice job. You make it look easy but since I was paying a guy to help me work on the rear suspension of my Z3, I let him do that for me. Today, I rebuilt my inner cv joints and noticed that the right outputshaft came out as I tightening the cv joint to it. Can I hammer it in myself to make sure it locks in place?
@maxvista I don-t remember much as this was long ago when I tried. But I remember mine was too rusted to take out anything. The exhaust does have to come out however if you are to remove the driveshaft to access this
you could... but also make sure the small vent port on the back of the diff is open.. if that clogs its gonna push oil out of whatever seal new or old.
I have just done this on my 2004 e87 2.47 ratio diff and now I have reinstalled it in the car drove for a few day and now making a very loud pinging noise every time I touch the throttle or come off the clutch had a look underneath while someone applied load on the clutch and the ping noise looks like it’s coming from where the prop shaft attaches to the diff any ideas?
Just about to do this with my diff out. I have to change diff mount bushings too. Do you have to drain the diff to change the output shaft seals? I plan on leaving it full when i take the diff off the car as i changed the fluid not too long ago.
@@ProjectBMW thanks for answering. So no drain it is. Great and helpful video. Mine is an e39, i guess mine has the locking ring that comes with the kit and you did not show this ring in your video. Cheers.
@@e36fanatics diff fluid lasts a long time and I changed mine recently before this job. Anyways, it's been a while and I changed the seals without draining the diff but I did change the fluid about 2 months after.
The c shaped clips “clip on” either the axle/ or output shafts (what I hammered off the diff). Depends on what model your car is. Your axles (and output shafts) should already have the c clips installed, I usually just toss the clips that come in the kit and re use the factory clips.
@@ProjectBMW Hi, I've just seen under my car, one of my axle shafts has actually popped out and leaked diff fluid. Do you know why? It's an E36 small case. Welded diff.
@@austinmerrival927 ya I just cleaned it up really well and seen it wasn't that bad, just mostly from the knuckle joint was sloshing oil over time. But I reapplied grease and rebuilt the driveshaft, new guibo, new, centering drive rubber thing, new cv joint gasket. I will take it back apart in the future because I severely want an lsd, so I will either convert or put an m5 diff in and lengthen the driveshaft
Why doesn't anyone ever show how to do the diff bearings? Do they never go bad? Are they just so good or lubed that they don't wear out like wheel bearings? I would think they would be very similar. HELP ME! LOL.
I had plenty of BMWs with way over 300.000km and know many people who own BMWs. Never heard of anyone who had to replace anything inside the diff, only shaft seals.
Thanks for this video. Great tips. Need advice on excessive clunking on my M3 F80 6MT when suddenly depressing clutch pedal to shift gears particularly at low speed/low rpm. Not yet sure if noise is coming from differential , or from flex disc & carbon prop shaft, or from transmission gearbox. Rubber mounts and bushings are all good. Any advice is highly appreciated. Thanks th-cam.com/video/3jMtmQQgJSE/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/BKlpXe1XyqA/w-d-xo.html
Be aware how deep the original seal was. Better to measure before replacing it. If you push the seal too deep than it could close an oil passage. The consequences will come a little bit later on.
Not often you see a tutorial so clear and concise. Gives me the confidence to try to tackle this 10 minute job that will take me 3 weeks.
That was the best. You don’t see this in the dealership anymore. These new technicians don’t know what their doing now a days. Great video. That’s how my auto shop teacher would have done it. With out some stupid over priced tool.
I like how you keep referring to your prybar as "that mofo". Think I'll label mine as that from now on :D Thanks for the helpful video!
I think he was referring to the shaft
Worked great just did it on my BMW 850 Differential today
„We are a bunch of cheap bastards“ - hits, but fits 😅
I felt insulted yet proud.😂
I will be careful when I replace those MOFOS.. The video was excellent. Tks
Hey man,
Nice job. You make it look easy but since I was paying a guy to help me work on the rear suspension of my Z3, I let him do that for me.
Today, I rebuilt my inner cv joints and noticed that the right outputshaft came out as I tightening the cv joint to it. Can I hammer it in myself to make sure it locks in place?
Did you drain the diff before you pulled those seals? Or can you get away with leaving the oil in?
thanks for the info, I was just about to change them.
Did you change your with diff on the car? Did you have to remove the exhaust?
@maxvista I don-t remember much as this was long ago when I tried. But I remember mine was too rusted to take out anything. The exhaust does have to come out however if you are to remove the driveshaft to access this
Will this process work on a f36 B47 2015?
My front diff is leaking. I’m pretty sure it’s the output shaft seal. Should I also replace the input shaft seal while everything is apart?
you could... but also make sure the small vent port on the back of the diff is open.. if that clogs its gonna push oil out of whatever seal new or old.
Be sure to protect the differential with a towel or a piece of wood to avoid damage or this could also lead to leaking
I have just done this on my 2004 e87 2.47 ratio diff and now I have reinstalled it in the car drove for a few day and now making a very loud pinging noise every time I touch the throttle or come off the clutch had a look underneath while someone applied load on the clutch and the ping noise looks like it’s coming from where the prop shaft attaches to the diff any ideas?
Did you ever figure it out?
Thx bro it helped a Lot!!!!
One of them won’t come out at all, any ideas? Tia
Just about to do this with my diff out. I have to change diff mount bushings too. Do you have to drain the diff to change the output shaft seals? I plan on leaving it full when i take the diff off the car as i changed the fluid not too long ago.
Good question, I did not drain the fluid, replaced the seals with fluid still in the diff. Thanks for watching!
@@ProjectBMW thanks for answering. So no drain it is. Great and helpful video. Mine is an e39, i guess mine has the locking ring that comes with the kit and you did not show this ring in your video. Cheers.
@@sweetsuductress i have no idea why you wouldnt drain the diff... you should replace the fluids anyways
@@e36fanatics diff fluid lasts a long time and I changed mine recently before this job. Anyways, it's been a while and I changed the seals without draining the diff but I did change the fluid about 2 months after.
Does this work for an e28 as well?
Great vid ! Thanks
From which bmw is this diff?
This is e46 but technique works with all BMW’s. Thanks for watching 👍
Will this work on an e32 735i diff? Thank you
Yup, this works with all BMW differentials.
@@ProjectBMW awesome thank you for the reply and posting
Thank you!
On a different topic, I’ve got excessive play on my output shaft that you hammered out causing clunking. Is my diff shot?
What kind of car is it, e46 M3? It’s normal for them to have excessive play on the passenger side. Thanks for watching!
Awesome video, thanks alot!!
We call our big prybars pimp canes
Good to know 💯
thanks!!
My seals come with small c shaped clips, where do they go?
The c shaped clips “clip on” either the axle/ or output shafts (what I hammered off the diff). Depends on what model your car is. Your axles (and output shafts) should already have the c clips installed, I usually just toss the clips that come in the kit and re use the factory clips.
@@ProjectBMW Hi, I've just seen under my car, one of my axle shafts has actually popped out and leaked diff fluid. Do you know why? It's an E36 small case. Welded diff.
Same concept for a 98 Supra ??
Why would you ask about a Supra on a BMW video 😂
Now do the input seal. More than 3 minutes, I'm guessing.
Also impossible without having a bunch of tool to measure the slack. This has to be done by an expert
Does anyone know how to remove the front shaft without taking apart the diff? My front is leaking pretty badly
Were you able to replace only your shaft seal, or what ended up happening? Haha
@@austinmerrival927 ya I just cleaned it up really well and seen it wasn't that bad, just mostly from the knuckle joint was sloshing oil over time. But I reapplied grease and rebuilt the driveshaft, new guibo, new, centering drive rubber thing, new cv joint gasket. I will take it back apart in the future because I severely want an lsd, so I will either convert or put an m5 diff in and lengthen the driveshaft
Wtf is a rubber mullet
mallet my guy... rubber mallet
Freedom factory sex toy?
Truly is always one person to say it was done wrong..... SMH
Why doesn't anyone ever show how to do the diff bearings? Do they never go bad? Are they just so good or lubed that they don't wear out like wheel bearings? I would think they would be very similar. HELP ME! LOL.
I had plenty of BMWs with way over 300.000km and know many people who own BMWs. Never heard of anyone who had to replace anything inside the diff, only shaft seals.
Where was the grease lol
weight reduction bro
Thanks for this video. Great tips. Need advice on excessive clunking on my M3 F80 6MT when suddenly depressing clutch pedal to shift gears particularly at low speed/low rpm. Not yet sure if noise is coming from differential , or from flex disc & carbon prop shaft, or from transmission gearbox. Rubber mounts and bushings are all good. Any advice is highly appreciated. Thanks
th-cam.com/video/3jMtmQQgJSE/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/BKlpXe1XyqA/w-d-xo.html
I had this problem and when I replaced my rear main seal I went ahead and replaced the flywheel and clutch and my clunk went away.
2 mins, it took you 30 to remove the seal.
It's not called a rubber- "Mullett". Unless you're talking about a wig.