Mine is 2008 same size V6 3.0L. I recently have noticed that this symptom start to build up.... I think this could be the case.... Thanks again, Mr. Chango Grasoso.
Thanks, C...very kind. Personally, I find it painful to watch my vids. But, if I were actually working on a vehicle, and didn't know what to do or where to start, I would want a slow-paced, detailed video to follow. Thanks again for the kind words...and thanks for watching!
At 1:55, I would change the graphic to "Newer models do not use a throttle cable, nor have an Idle Control Valve." Technically, they have an ELECTRONIC cable to connect to the electronically operated throttle body.
Hey Grease can you make a video detecting all the vacuum lines, also what may be the problem if I cannot get the rpm’s to go down while in park, any suggestions on where vacuum leaks are likely to occur would help greatly …
Is that 3.0 motor a "Duratec" (24 valve) or a "Vulcan"? At least on the Taurus and Sable, the Vulcan has the alternator at the top of the engine; the Duratec has its alternator at the bottom of the engine.
I replaced my iac my map my MAF and my plugs it still idles high and is hard to start after it's been running. It also takes a while to idle down after you accelerate
Would I be right to assume that when the engine is turned off the IAC valve closes. I think mine stays open slightly allowing air into the plenum. That being the case that would be a vacuum leak causing high rpm at startup. It comes back down to where it should be quickly. It jumps to 2200 when cold and 1800 when warmed up. Thanks.
My friend , i disconect the iac valve and the engine are in 800 rpm , so what o suposed yo do next? The engine is idling above 1100 rpm with the valve conected. Please help me
Your video been very helpful I did the same thing to my idler air valve lords know how many times I flush it with my cleaner stuff plus mines been on my 🚘 from TThe making of my ride so I need to put a new one on any way 😂😂😂😂
I believe it’s my throttle body cables because when o put them back in place and screw them down that’s when it revs high if I remove a screw and move the cable slightly away it’ll go back down . Any suggestions ?
So I just dropped off some friends and when I put it in park it was idleing around 2k rpms but when I shut it off and turned it back on it was fine, is this signs of it going out or something else? its an 04 escape same engine. Just had an issue like a week or 2 ago of it not wanting to start after stopping somewhere and than when I got it going it stuttered to a stop twice but when I got home it started up and ran fine. I replaced the cam and crankshaft sensor since I got the code P0320 I think the one for ignition but everyone said it was actually for those sensors so I went ahead an did em. Hope this is enough info lmk if you need more and thanks in advace
Thanks for watching, Spearfishing. That's why you test it first by blocking up the intake ports. If it barely runs, almost to the point of stalling out, you've narrowed the problem down to the IAC. If there is no change in the rpms, or it runs more normal, while the ports are bocked, then you have a vacuum leak somewhere else...or the new IAC is defective, if purchased. Hope that helps. Again, thanks for watching!
@@GreaseMonkeyFever thanks grease I’ve looked at what seems to be all My vacuum lines and no one here in Barbados seems to want to work on old fords, lemme know if your interested coming to visit the island, i I’d make sure your taken care of just let me know thanks buddy
We replaced the iac valve on wife's 03 and it didn't help much at all. It was burning through fuel something crazy so we took it to Ford dealer. They found out that the alternator was getting weak, so the computer was making engine run faster to generate the electricity needed for demands. $700 and some odd dollars worth of trouble shooting uggh.
Either there is a vacuum leak somewhere, a stuck gas pedal or maybe a bad throttle position sensor. That's why it is important to test first...take off the IAC and block the intake ports. If the engine stumbles and almost cuts out, that isolates the issue to the IAC. If replaced, there is that chance the replacement is defective...that does happen. Thanks for watching, Kim!
My issue is high idle on cold start it will die down to normal idle rpm but as soon as I accelerate it stays high idle for about five seconds then does back down and let me tell you it did this while I was stopping at a red light and it was a bit h to stop
I own a 2003 Mazda Tribute, when it has problems, I always look for your videos. Greetings from Mexico.
Mine is 2008 same size V6 3.0L. I recently have noticed that this symptom start to build up.... I think this could be the case.... Thanks again, Mr. Chango Grasoso.
amazing video! so organized, equilibrated and clever, sometimes I just watch your videos to enjoy them.
Thanks, C...very kind. Personally, I find it painful to watch my vids. But, if I were actually working on a vehicle, and didn't know what to do or where to start, I would want a slow-paced, detailed video to follow. Thanks again for the kind words...and thanks for watching!
At 1:55, I would change the graphic to "Newer models do not use a throttle cable, nor have an Idle Control Valve." Technically, they have an ELECTRONIC cable to connect to the electronically operated throttle body.
Excellent presentation. Well described and clearly detailed for each step. Bravo.
Hey Grease can you make a video detecting all the vacuum lines, also what may be the problem if I cannot get the rpm’s to go down while in park, any suggestions on where vacuum leaks are likely to occur would help greatly …
6:40 Question: why gloves makers does not reinforce the index fingers tips? hehehe.... Many Thanks for the video... Un Saludo desde Mecsico.
And don't forget to inspect for vacuum leaks, especially with an old engine. Hoses do wear out with old age, and they're cheap to replace.
Is that 3.0 motor a "Duratec" (24 valve) or a "Vulcan"? At least on the Taurus and Sable, the Vulcan has the alternator at the top of the engine; the Duratec has its alternator at the bottom of the engine.
I replaced my iac my map my MAF and my plugs it still idles high and is hard to start after it's been running. It also takes a while to idle down after you accelerate
Would I be right to assume that when the engine is turned off the IAC valve closes. I think mine stays open slightly allowing air into the plenum. That being the case that would be a vacuum leak causing high rpm at startup. It comes back down to where it should be quickly. It jumps to 2200 when cold and 1800 when warmed up. Thanks.
My friend , i disconect the iac valve and the engine are in 800 rpm , so what o suposed yo do next? The engine is idling above 1100 rpm with the valve conected. Please help me
Your video been very helpful I did the same thing to my idler air valve lords know how many times I flush it with my cleaner stuff plus mines been on my 🚘 from TThe making of my ride so I need to put a new one on any way 😂😂😂😂
I believe it’s my throttle body cables because when o put them back in place and screw them down that’s when it revs high if I remove a screw and move the cable slightly away it’ll go back down . Any suggestions ?
So I just dropped off some friends and when I put it in park it was idleing around 2k rpms but when I shut it off and turned it back on it was fine, is this signs of it going out or something else? its an 04 escape same engine. Just had an issue like a week or 2 ago of it not wanting to start after stopping somewhere and than when I got it going it stuttered to a stop twice but when I got home it started up and ran fine. I replaced the cam and crankshaft sensor since I got the code P0320 I think the one for ignition but everyone said it was actually for those sensors so I went ahead an did em. Hope this is enough info lmk if you need more and thanks in advace
What if I replaced the iac and it’s still doing the same thing?
Thanks for watching, Spearfishing. That's why you test it first by blocking up the intake ports. If it barely runs, almost to the point of stalling out, you've narrowed the problem down to the IAC. If there is no change in the rpms, or it runs more normal, while the ports are bocked, then you have a vacuum leak somewhere else...or the new IAC is defective, if purchased. Hope that helps. Again, thanks for watching!
@@GreaseMonkeyFever thanks grease I’ve looked at what seems to be all
My vacuum lines and no one here in Barbados seems to want to work on old fords, lemme know if your interested coming to visit the island, i I’d make sure your taken care of just let me know thanks buddy
We replaced the iac valve on wife's 03 and it didn't help much at all. It was burning through fuel something crazy so we took it to Ford dealer. They found out that the alternator was getting weak, so the computer was making engine run faster to generate the electricity needed for demands. $700 and some odd dollars worth of trouble shooting uggh.
Do you have any suggestions on what to do if this doesn't fix the high idling issue?
Either there is a vacuum leak somewhere, a stuck gas pedal or maybe a bad throttle position sensor. That's why it is important to test first...take off the IAC and block the intake ports. If the engine stumbles and almost cuts out, that isolates the issue to the IAC. If replaced, there is that chance the replacement is defective...that does happen. Thanks for watching, Kim!
0:17 Escape
สวัสดีครับ ผมใช้ ford escape v6 3.0 model 2003 ที่ประเทศไทย ผมดูแลซ่อมแซมรถด้วยตนเองโดยไม่ใช้ศูนย์บริการฟอร์ด เมื่อรถมีปัญหาก็จะมาดูวิดีโอของคุณ ขอขอบคุณครับ
I replaced it but still idling hight
You may have a vacuum leak somewhere, or the throttle plate is stuck open. Thanks for watching, soldadormoreno!
Escape Frontier
My issue is high idle on cold start it will die down to normal idle rpm but as soon as I accelerate it stays high idle for about five seconds then does back down and let me tell you it did this while I was stopping at a red light and it was a bit h to stop
0:17 Escape