I actually really love having the clock in the time lapse. Shows how long it really takes. Makes me appreciate things more. Never really seen that but I want it to be a regular thing.
@@gabrieldonovan794 I don't think headlight intakes are legal in Georgia though, plus having just one headlight with a massive intake sticking out the other doesn't really add to the sleeper look
I love this. You went from having a (small) shop with a lift, workbenches, good lighting, etc---- TO: doing things the way that 90% of car guys do it: in a drive way using your garbage can as a workbench. Humbling to see you adapt so easily.
Reflective tape is shiny but quite useless and completly uselessas soon as there is dust on it, it's good only for space machines where no dust can stick on. If you want to insulate properly your cold piping,use foam tape or foam sleeves used on domestic/HVAC hotand cold water lines plumbing insulation. You need to create an air layer on hot elements,with some shielding,and NOT install against hot surfaces ,the best insulation material is air , a simple gap between the hot surface and its shield. Get a air/air intercooler, you will gain room in the engine bay,let some air flow ,and reduce temperatures. You can also misadjust the hood hinges so there is an air gap close to the windshield, The uderskirt on volvo 240 is very important for airflow.
Or a little venting under the car like a suttle one like direct air in or out of the engine bay I mean I guess it's out of site and effective apart from when a speed jump takes it out unless he gets rust on the bonnet and uses a rust hole as a vent for better air flow in or out of the engine bay if in the right spot/s but then you might see the engine then every secrets given away pretty much but a small one or a few small ones could work tho it might be dangerous if the bonnets that rusty and you hit someone and they go on the bonnet and go through onto the engine and burn the face or body off sorry I'm really blunt and just say it how it is
Could space the rear of the bonnet about 1/2 inch or so between the hinges and bonnet. It’s an told trick but it’s surprising how much it helps. Getting any hot air out of the bay is always going to help.
@@grumpy2836 that trick only tends to work at a standstill, once you're moving, there is a high pressure zone at the base of the windshield and it will usually force air _into_ the engine bay from the raised rear of the hood. Same idea as cowl induction on muscle cars. So you'd be shoving more air into the engine bay at the rear of the hood and you'd actually slow down the airflow through the radiator due to the increased pressure in the engine bay.
That aluminum wrap job you did turned out sweeeet! Maybe an additional fan for the heat exchanger as well as some more cold air directed to the filter? Great video man.
It’ll totally kill the look of the sleeper theme, but look at super cars.. they deal large high revving engines in the middle of the car... they do a lot of wind tunnel testing on how to get as much air in, and as much air out as possible.. instead of heat shielding everything, I would’ve done that cut out at the turbo like you did, and do hidden vents underneath the front bumper and hood spacers to lift the rear of the hood. It’s about air flow, not stop the heat from the source.. it’ll always get hot, if it’s too much heat but it’s not escaping, shields will just build up heat too.
I'd make it look like the hood was dented or something so air goes through at the front so above the grille it would work but possibly be dangerous tho just a little angle and might create drag and mess up what fuel economy it has left but youd have abit of a cooler engine tho only barely but depends on the bonnet angle at the front
@@aaroncable4739 Its not about air going in, its about the air not easily moving out. lifting the rear end of the hood would make air escape from under the hood more easily, instead of just circulating inside the engine bay.
@@sakke6902 there's actually a high pressure area there. That's why the heater vent intake in right there on every car. This is the same concept as a ram air "cowl" hood. And the same concept Nascar uses for they're intake. Lifting the hood there actually created more pressure under the hood. Very counterintuitive, I know
@@CornFedZ06 Wow. Didn't even think of that. Thank you for the information. We've done this lifting thing for ages to our Volvos which we drift on, and it has always helped to keep coolant temps down, but the engines are way smaller (redblocks) which we use. (from a LS or just nascar cars in any way)
I’m gonna be honest. I don’t watch your videos a lot. But every time I do end up clicking on one of your videos, I’m super entertained and it’s always really interesting.
You should also add some hood louvers to help that hot air escape. I know it might jeopardize the sleeper look, but maybe you could find a way to make it discreet
I think the best things to do for cooling would be that intercooler upgrade, and the hood. If you did a cowl hood, or put louvers* in it, or something like that, it'd probs help with airflow and cooling quite a bit.
I know it'll wreck the sleeper look but you should consider some sort of heat extraction vents at the rear of the hood. Insulating all the heat sources in the engine bay is a good start but giving the heat an easier path out of the bay will help, especially when cruising or doing pulls.
Theres one more things I would do personally. I would build a bigger heatshield around the filter. Something that will reach right up to the hood. Then add a 100mm ish duct up to that Heat shield to provide fresh air(point to ducting forwards to force air though it when driving.) I did this on one of my old builds and the temp drop in the intake was significant.
You should make an undersheild. Will help with aerodynamics, and you can add scoops to direct cool air into the engine bay helping with engine and intake temps. Best yet is it will be completely unnoticed
An under tray will help with drag but adding "scoops" will make engine bay temps worse. You can't have more air going in without a way for it to also get out, and most of the air passing through the radiator is exiting out the bottom.
You're using the embossed heat reflectors wrong. You want the offset from the heat source by ½-1", placing sheets of them between what you want protected so that they can reflect the heat away
Also top tip, wrapping exhaust in aluminum isn't going to do much if I had too guess. Why? because aluminum is very conductive. I imagine it works best at reflecting heat but you are putting it in contact with the exhaust meaning that it is now conducting heat and isn't much different than not having it there at all. I could be wrong though. I'm thinking the best case is using it to separate hot from cold, meaning creating air channels for the hot air to be drafted away, say from around the turbo and collector, while also creating a cool air channel for the cold air to do it's job. Sounds like a lot of work I know... :D If you're wondering I am writing this only having made it to 9:15 minutes in the video :P
Hey bud. Couple of additional thoughts regs your upgrades. 1. The best form of heatsheild is an air gap. Putting the aluminium shield directly on to the cross over pipe will just warm up as normal (albeit slightly slower) If you can brace the shield off the pipe and have an air gap, it'll help massively! 2. Enclosing your filter & putting a scoop from the underside / high pressure area of the bonnet (hood) will significantly reduce intake temps, especially when combined with the gold tape! 3. Venting the bonnet in a low pressure area will help suck the air out of the bay when driving, large holes will help at slow speeds but will let water in easier (rain) I know this could take away from the sleeper part of the build so, maybe a stealthy vent could be an option. 4. Is the water cooler able to he moved / ducted? It isn't working as efficiently as it could be and although replacing with a larger item and pipes would be an easy option. It's still not in the right place / flowing as well as it could. Keep the videos coming. Cheers from the UK.
I really hope you start a trend with this clock during time lapse thing. That was absolutely brilliant! I've never enjoyed watching a time lapse more lol.
A few things 1wastegate beanies and 2removing heat from engine bay space bonnet near windshield to allow airflow out of engine bay or remove rubber weathershield, 3 intake manifold shield as heat rises and soaks into it
You should try a pwm fan speed controller for the heat exchanger or move get a bigger heat exchanger or one with more rows. Also look in to water wetter if you’re just running water in the heat exchanger the stuff works wonders.
While my wagon is no where near as insanely modified vs yours as mine uses the factory engine, I have reworked my intake system to shorten it down and added cheap thermal blankets for intake and exhaust systems find on Amazon, and I clamped it on. I also wrapped the intake runners that Volvo uses, plastic but the radiator is blowing so much hot air over them that they heat up so I had extra wrap so I put that on them. I also found plenty of plastic in the engine bag of P3 wagons that can cut out and get cold fresh clean air to suck in.. I also tested Y pipe and splitting the intake over two K&N cone filters as well, also caused issues with my placement of MAF sensor because I was stupid and drilled out a spot in the Y pipe and I think it wasn’t reading the air flow, so plugged that and moved it back to the pipe connecting to the Y pipe and made a huge difference. In terms of extra power from Y pipe I think there is some up top but without a dyno I can’t prove it.. Overall, I can certainly feel the extra power with cold air on factory engine with a custom tube reflashed to the Factory ECU.. before adding all my heat shielding just after a few quick pulls down the street I could feel it heatsoaking and losing a lot of power like 100+ HP loss kind of feeling it was getting lame. With all heat shielding it stays way more consistent and initial pull is strong every time.
Cut some holes between the firewall and the cowl vents and you may be able to extract some heat through the Calvin hose and not change the functional look of the outside of the car maybe even install some baffles in it
Put a lid over the air filter, box it off entirely from the heat of the engine bay. Adding a 90 and poking a (bigger!) air filter down that hole will improve things a LOT too. That filter you have is too small. Gotta wrap the rest of the exhaust too, and maybe add a cover over the turbo flange as well. Maybe also add a stealthy little air dam under the front lip to scoop some more air into the radiator or just straight into the engine bay too, to flush some more air through it.
I don’t know if it would make sense but you could put a 90 on the turbo facing down and then put the filter on that so It can pull air from the bottom… well actually I don’t know it wouldn’t work if the roads really hot but when it’s not it would get good airflow
Hey man, i wanna throw this out there. and im hoping you see this comment. Alot of your cylinder temperature is effected by your tune in the form of timing/ignition With higher cylinder temperature, the head and block are hotter, the exhaust temperatures also become extremely hot. making the turbo heat soak alot more, getting the downpipe, and header alot hotter etc.etc.etc... I told my tuner (I drive an M52-GT3582R Link Ecu powered E36) to keep the torque numbers below 550 ft lbs below 3500RPM and so we took alot of the timing out. While idling my engine gets super hot (not the coolant temp) the heat wrap turned white just like yours here. adding some timing into the car will effect power output but more importantly cylinder temperatures. you could get the exhaust gas hundreds of degrees cooler just by changing your timing. im willing to bet you chose to get a "modest" tune, and not looking to really break any records or anything. and because of that, i believe your exhaust gas temps are sky high from cylinder pressure/temperatures.
Also consider the outside temps next time! You mentioned, that it's 82 outside for the before. Substract that from all your before temp values, and do the same with the after outside temp and you'll see that those 6F are actually a pretty good difference
I think you should put the filter down lower into the bumper to actually suck in the cooler air. Once the hot air is in the engine bay there's no way for it to get out. A small louver over the turbo and maybe the drivers side exhaust could help with this too. Also an under tray/skid plate could help the temps.
Try Adding a small fan behind the heat exchanger for a little extra airflow. Arabs who drive in the desert do this to their transmission coolers using some mounts or zip ties. The end product looks weird but the improvements are quite noticing
The “ sleeper “ thing your going for is hurting you more than anything, I think a front mount intercooler along with the heat protection stuff you did could solve most of your issues
No no no and no....it's not about flow of water. It's about air. More fan more cooler. Higher cfm's. And get that small filter out of there. Go bigger air filter or mesh, from colder location routed through the wheel well. Like a velocity stack type. Filter is definitely restricted and hot.
Build around the airfilter with steelplate to minimize heat from the turbo going in to the airfilter. And try to increase fresh airflow in to that "airfilterhouse".
What you could do for the intake is put a 90 straight down through that hole and fab some ducting behind the bumper to shoot some air right into that filter
Two words my dude, bonnet vents. Don't need to be some insane d1 style vents. literally think 2 rectangular vents at the front of the bonnet will help move that hot air away. love the volvo dude!
I think on the things you're discounting from all that heat management is keeping heat in the turbine makes it far more efficient. There was one study that showed just a turbo blanket improved turbo spool by 200rpm, which is significant. IME air to water intercoolers suck for anything but a drag car that can't use an ice water tank, for a true street going car front mount is going to be king as they do not heat soak as bad. If you think about it, once you heat soak all that water you have to expend the energy to bring it back down to ambient.
A custom headlight with only low beams and a hole cutput on the high beam side letting air through into the turbo intake would be cool you still have lighting and cool air
I think a big problem is the exhaust crossover. Honestly it probably wouldn't be worth it at this point but a twin top mount turbo and a large air to air intercooler might get you better results just keeping the hot and cold sides farther apart.
You could try to do some sort scoop or something that would direct air from under the bumper to engine bay and then lift the hoodfrom near the winshield so the whole engine bay would stai more colder.
what about a diy cowl induction setup? some muscle cars had them mounted on the rear of the hood, and they would open when you got on the power and draw in cool air that collects on the windshield. you probably could build one pretty easily, and it opens via a vacuum actuator. when its closed, the car is still a sleeper as well. Check out cowl induction Chevelle SS pics if you're not familiar with the setup. Just an idea. good luck combating those underhood temps!
I hate to break it to you, but that gold tape wrap does nothing. It's touching the pipe so will just conduct any ambient heat straight into the pipe. The reason blankets and sleeves work is that they create an air gap, and air is a really crappy conductor which means it's a good insulator. As others have said, isolating the filter in an airbox will surely help keep the intake temps down. Notice that most factory cars draw from a snorkel to the front of the hood or an airbox separated from the engine bay.
What about MPG? Decreasing intake temp will increase fuel consumption and promote worse fuel atomization. But for max power its obviously beneficial to keep it cool.
Gold tape does virtually nothing. Heat doesn't transfer under an engine bay because of radiation, it transfers by convection. Ideally you'd want something like the heat wrap material on your charge pipes.
You need to get the hot air flowing out of the engine bay. You’d be surprised at the amount of difference those ricey hood risers make. Experiment with venting.
I can't stop myself from laughing when I see this guys face while doing a big pull haha. (no hate, just love the concentration vs joy vs pantsshitting)
Would be cool if you make it look like the headlight is busted but really its a hole for the turbo intake and make some rough cuts in the hood for heat but make it look like the hood was damaged.
I actually really love having the clock in the time lapse. Shows how long it really takes. Makes me appreciate things more. Never really seen that but I want it to be a regular thing.
Heck yeah! Came up with the idea the other day and I love it!
@@_Gingium_ been watching you since early molly build. Love all of your content and your fabrication skill. You were definitely born with that skill.
I second this
Get it?
I agree the clock is a great idea!! I’ve seen it before but it’s very rare, souls be a standard for everyone
Your a trooper for doing all this on the floor/on the trash can after havin such a nice shop. Keep up the great videos!
I gotta say, I'm really starting to have shop-ptsd. I just want to fabricate again!
now this car is a complete "pop the hood" flex. that heat wrap looks so slick considering how much it contrasts the old beater volvo it's in
dropping that filter down in that hole will help cooler air into the turbo means less cooling the system has to cool would be cheap and easy to do
True! That would be a good idea!
Was going to mention that, or remove a headlight and have it as an intake!
yes, putting the filter outside of the engine bay is the way to go. In my case the IAT only go up 1°C at idle while standing
@@gabrieldonovan794 I don't think headlight intakes are legal in Georgia though, plus having just one headlight with a massive intake sticking out the other doesn't really add to the sleeper look
@@_Gingium_ dont forget to make something to also block off heat from coming down, and/or just make a fully super insulated box for it
Might be beneficial to also make a better cold air intake shield like Molly has. Hidden intake vent for the turbo? 👀
I love this. You went from having a (small) shop with a lift, workbenches, good lighting, etc---- TO: doing things the way that 90% of car guys do it: in a drive way using your garbage can as a workbench. Humbling to see you adapt so easily.
I think you're the first person to take heat management seriously. props dude
petition for sneaky headlight intake, bet that would help a ton with iats
To say this Volvo ain’t cool is like looking at its temps while idling . 😂
Under rated comment 😂
Production quality is only going up!
absolutely. Ive noticed such a change over the years.
I'm trying!
Mishimoto - "soo eh Caleb, what would you liek for us to send over?"
Caleb - "Yes"
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Thats pretty much how it went down lol
@@_Gingium_ get in my dude😂👌🤟🤟🤟
Reflective tape is shiny but quite useless and completly uselessas soon as there is dust on it, it's good only for space machines where no dust can stick on.
If you want to insulate properly your cold piping,use foam tape or foam sleeves used on domestic/HVAC hotand cold water lines plumbing insulation.
You need to create an air layer on hot elements,with some shielding,and NOT install against hot surfaces ,the best insulation material is air , a simple gap between the hot surface and its shield.
Get a air/air intercooler, you will gain room in the engine bay,let some air flow ,and reduce temperatures.
You can also misadjust the hood hinges so there is an air gap close to the windshield,
The uderskirt on volvo 240 is very important for airflow.
I know your trying for the sleeper look though might consider hood louvers to get the heat out of the bay.
Or a little venting under the car like a suttle one like direct air in or out of the engine bay I mean I guess it's out of site and effective apart from when a speed jump takes it out unless he gets rust on the bonnet and uses a rust hole as a vent for better air flow in or out of the engine bay if in the right spot/s but then you might see the engine then every secrets given away pretty much but a small one or a few small ones could work tho it might be dangerous if the bonnets that rusty and you hit someone and they go on the bonnet and go through onto the engine and burn the face or body off sorry I'm really blunt and just say it how it is
Could space the rear of the bonnet about 1/2 inch or so between the hinges and bonnet. It’s an told trick but it’s surprising how much it helps. Getting any hot air out of the bay is always going to help.
@@grumpy2836 that trick only tends to work at a standstill, once you're moving, there is a high pressure zone at the base of the windshield and it will usually force air _into_ the engine bay from the raised rear of the hood. Same idea as cowl induction on muscle cars. So you'd be shoving more air into the engine bay at the rear of the hood and you'd actually slow down the airflow through the radiator due to the increased pressure in the engine bay.
That aluminum wrap job you did turned out sweeeet! Maybe an additional fan for the heat exchanger as well as some more cold air directed to the filter? Great video man.
Thanks man! The heat exchanger doesn't have any fan on it atm. Might be a good thing to add!
It’ll totally kill the look of the sleeper theme, but look at super cars.. they deal large high revving engines in the middle of the car... they do a lot of wind tunnel testing on how to get as much air in, and as much air out as possible.. instead of heat shielding everything, I would’ve done that cut out at the turbo like you did, and do hidden vents underneath the front bumper and hood spacers to lift the rear of the hood. It’s about air flow, not stop the heat from the source.. it’ll always get hot, if it’s too much heat but it’s not escaping, shields will just build up heat too.
I'd make it look like the hood was dented or something so air goes through at the front so above the grille it would work but possibly be dangerous tho just a little angle and might create drag and mess up what fuel economy it has left but youd have abit of a cooler engine tho only barely but depends on the bonnet angle at the front
@@aaroncable4739 Its not about air going in, its about the air not easily moving out. lifting the rear end of the hood would make air escape from under the hood more easily, instead of just circulating inside the engine bay.
@@sakke6902 there's actually a high pressure area there. That's why the heater vent intake in right there on every car. This is the same concept as a ram air "cowl" hood. And the same concept Nascar uses for they're intake.
Lifting the hood there actually created more pressure under the hood. Very counterintuitive, I know
@@CornFedZ06 Wow. Didn't even think of that. Thank you for the information. We've done this lifting thing for ages to our Volvos which we drift on, and it has always helped to keep coolant temps down, but the engines are way smaller (redblocks) which we use. (from a LS or just nascar cars in any way)
@@sakke6902 it will help temps when the car is sitting still or going slowly, it won't help at highway speed.
I’m gonna be honest.
I don’t watch your videos a lot.
But every time I do end up clicking on one of your videos, I’m super entertained and it’s always really interesting.
You should also add some hood louvers to help that hot air escape.
I know it might jeopardize the sleeper look, but maybe you could find a way to make it discreet
Make em look like Wal-Mart specials stuck on😂
I think the best things to do for cooling would be that intercooler upgrade, and the hood. If you did a cowl hood, or put louvers* in it, or something like that, it'd probs help with airflow and cooling quite a bit.
Consider an air gap between the exhaust piping and the heatshield, Benny's Custom Works did a video on it with his Cressida
I know it'll wreck the sleeper look but you should consider some sort of heat extraction vents at the rear of the hood. Insulating all the heat sources in the engine bay is a good start but giving the heat an easier path out of the bay will help, especially when cruising or doing pulls.
Theres one more things I would do personally.
I would build a bigger heatshield around the filter.
Something that will reach right up to the hood. Then add a 100mm ish duct up to that Heat shield to provide fresh air(point to ducting forwards to force air though it when driving.)
I did this on one of my old builds and the temp drop in the intake was significant.
Gingium is so underrated, he has the coolest builds and deserves more followers
You should make an undersheild. Will help with aerodynamics, and you can add scoops to direct cool air into the engine bay helping with engine and intake temps. Best yet is it will be completely unnoticed
An under tray will help with drag but adding "scoops" will make engine bay temps worse. You can't have more air going in without a way for it to also get out, and most of the air passing through the radiator is exiting out the bottom.
Woah I really like the editing and music in this one, that clock shot with you in the background was really well done!
Tavarish would be proud! 😂
All jokes aside you did a really nice, professional looking job.
You're using the embossed heat reflectors wrong. You want the offset from the heat source by ½-1", placing sheets of them between what you want protected so that they can reflect the heat away
Yeah I noticed that too, he wanted them to be a heat wrap when they’re meant to be a heat shield
I came here to say this!
The only place he used it right was the little wall he did... I told my wife I bet someone in the comments mentioned it watch! Only 1 person!
@gingium
This car is dirt nasty. You continue to make the best, most original, most creative, most real car content on TH-cam.
That means so much to me. Thank you!
Also top tip, wrapping exhaust in aluminum isn't going to do much if I had too guess. Why? because aluminum is very conductive. I imagine it works best at reflecting heat but you are putting it in contact with the exhaust meaning that it is now conducting heat and isn't much different than not having it there at all. I could be wrong though. I'm thinking the best case is using it to separate hot from cold, meaning creating air channels for the hot air to be drafted away, say from around the turbo and collector, while also creating a cool air channel for the cold air to do it's job. Sounds like a lot of work I know... :D If you're wondering I am writing this only having made it to 9:15 minutes in the video :P
Hey bud. Couple of additional thoughts regs your upgrades.
1. The best form of heatsheild is an air gap.
Putting the aluminium shield directly on to the cross over pipe will just warm up as normal (albeit slightly slower)
If you can brace the shield off the pipe and have an air gap, it'll help massively!
2. Enclosing your filter & putting a scoop from the underside / high pressure area of the bonnet (hood) will significantly reduce intake temps, especially when combined with the gold tape!
3. Venting the bonnet in a low pressure area will help suck the air out of the bay when driving, large holes will help at slow speeds but will let water in easier (rain) I know this could take away from the sleeper part of the build so, maybe a stealthy vent could be an option.
4. Is the water cooler able to he moved / ducted? It isn't working as efficiently as it could be and although replacing with a larger item and pipes would be an easy option. It's still not in the right place / flowing as well as it could.
Keep the videos coming.
Cheers from the UK.
Perfect timing on this. It 100+ here in Arizona and I am tying to tune my Volvo intake temps of 130 are very common.
I really hope you start a trend with this clock during time lapse thing. That was absolutely brilliant! I've never enjoyed watching a time lapse more lol.
Volvo vs farmtruck be like......😂😂😂😂😂
Very high quality videos now Caleb. We notice the effort, and appreciate it. 👌
A few things 1wastegate beanies and 2removing heat from engine bay space bonnet near windshield to allow airflow out of engine bay or remove rubber weathershield, 3 intake manifold shield as heat rises and soaks into it
The enginebay looks so much COOLer now 😂😂😂 dad joke engaged
Great work my guy! I know it’s gotta be hot working outside but it sure does make for a cool backdrop for the videos. Really appreciate the hustle!
You should try a pwm fan speed controller for the heat exchanger or move get a bigger heat exchanger or one with more rows. Also look in to water wetter if you’re just running water in the heat exchanger the stuff works wonders.
Gotta respect Calebs hustle, working outside like that is rough!
Looks super good, I do think it’d be a good idea to add some shielding to the master cylinder just as a backup. Not too far from the header
While my wagon is no where near as insanely modified vs yours as mine uses the factory engine, I have reworked my intake system to shorten it down and added cheap thermal blankets for intake and exhaust systems find on Amazon, and I clamped it on. I also wrapped the intake runners that Volvo uses, plastic but the radiator is blowing so much hot air over them that they heat up so I had extra wrap so I put that on them. I also found plenty of plastic in the engine bag of P3 wagons that can cut out and get cold fresh clean air to suck in.. I also tested Y pipe and splitting the intake over two K&N cone filters as well, also caused issues with my placement of MAF sensor because I was stupid and drilled out a spot in the Y pipe and I think it wasn’t reading the air flow, so plugged that and moved it back to the pipe connecting to the Y pipe and made a huge difference. In terms of extra power from Y pipe I think there is some up top but without a dyno I can’t prove it..
Overall, I can certainly feel the extra power with cold air on factory engine with a custom tube reflashed to the Factory ECU.. before adding all my heat shielding just after a few quick pulls down the street I could feel it heatsoaking and losing a lot of power like 100+ HP loss kind of feeling it was getting lame. With all heat shielding it stays way more consistent and initial pull is strong every time.
Cut some holes between the firewall and the cowl vents and you may be able to extract some heat through the Calvin hose and not change the functional look of the outside of the car maybe even install some baffles in it
Put a lid over the air filter, box it off entirely from the heat of the engine bay. Adding a 90 and poking a (bigger!) air filter down that hole will improve things a LOT too. That filter you have is too small. Gotta wrap the rest of the exhaust too, and maybe add a cover over the turbo flange as well. Maybe also add a stealthy little air dam under the front lip to scoop some more air into the radiator or just straight into the engine bay too, to flush some more air through it.
Volvo be flexing all components
No heat sinks on all those expensive coolers. AMAZING. EdIt. Why would you ever wrap them i will never understand. You INCREASED the temp there
Quality on these newer videos is amazing. I thought it couldn't get better than the shop times. I stand corrected. Great work!
Thank you so much!
@@_Gingium_ much love from Malaysia. keep up the great work! Been watching since Forza's Built vs Bought days.
As a driveway mechanic myself i recommend buying a heavy duty tarp to put on the ground for when you have to get under your cars
I loved this video, and it was just installing heat shields. Great to see where the videos have gone!
Maybe make a duct that shoves air from the grille to the hole that you cut out for the turbo to create a ram air effect 😉
I could also take out the passenger side headlight!
@@_Gingium_ have like a hellcat light that works..
@@_Gingium_ nah that would frick up the shleeper look
I don’t know if it would make sense but you could put a 90 on the turbo facing down and then put the filter on that so It can pull air from the bottom… well actually I don’t know it wouldn’t work if the roads really hot but when it’s not it would get good airflow
You've been in Georgia for like 2 months and you're already saying Y'all, love it lmao
Its the most efficient way to say "you all"!
Hey man, i wanna throw this out there. and im hoping you see this comment.
Alot of your cylinder temperature is effected by your tune in the form of timing/ignition
With higher cylinder temperature, the head and block are hotter, the exhaust temperatures also become extremely hot.
making the turbo heat soak alot more, getting the downpipe, and header alot hotter etc.etc.etc...
I told my tuner (I drive an M52-GT3582R Link Ecu powered E36) to keep the torque numbers below 550 ft lbs
below 3500RPM and so we took alot of the timing out.
While idling my engine gets super hot (not the coolant temp)
the heat wrap turned white just like yours here.
adding some timing into the car will effect power output but more importantly cylinder temperatures.
you could get the exhaust gas hundreds of degrees cooler just by changing your timing.
im willing to bet you chose to get a "modest" tune, and not looking to really break any records or anything.
and because of that, i believe your exhaust gas temps are sky high from cylinder pressure/temperatures.
in other words. try messing with your timing and see if you cant get some temp drop
Also consider the outside temps next time! You mentioned, that it's 82 outside for the before. Substract that from all your before temp values, and do the same with the after outside temp and you'll see that those 6F are actually a pretty good difference
I think you should put the filter down lower into the bumper to actually suck in the cooler air. Once the hot air is in the engine bay there's no way for it to get out. A small louver over the turbo and maybe the drivers side exhaust could help with this too. Also an under tray/skid plate could help the temps.
Try Adding a small fan behind the heat exchanger for a little extra airflow. Arabs who drive in the desert do this to their transmission coolers using some mounts or zip ties. The end product looks weird but the improvements are quite noticing
"pop the hood" is a legit flex now
that's an amazing engine bay my man
I think, and tell me if I am wrong, but a fan hood like stock vehicles have is super important, it's all about air flow and direction.
If you put holes in the back cowl in the engine bay it's a good way to get ventilation yet keep it sleeper
The “ sleeper “ thing your going for is hurting you more than anything, I think a front mount intercooler along with the heat protection stuff you did could solve most of your issues
Or just go full on Cleetus and remove the hood. Easy airflow
But the point was for the car to be a sleeper, if he wants it to be a full racecar then its going to take a lot more work lol.
@@coffelt683 I don’t think mounting the heat exchanger somewhere else is going to be difficult considering how big the volvo is
No no no and no....it's not about flow of water. It's about air. More fan more cooler. Higher cfm's. And get that small filter out of there. Go bigger air filter or mesh, from colder location routed through the wheel well. Like a velocity stack type. Filter is definitely restricted and hot.
yea I recently learned that from Rob Dahm's video. A great flow cools better even with the same setup.
Build around the airfilter with steelplate to minimize heat from the turbo going in to the airfilter. And try to increase fresh airflow in to that "airfilterhouse".
Trinidad James coming trough with "ALL GOLD EVERYTHING"! Love the content!
Good times
Good stuff as always. That gold makes me think of pimp my ride. Love it. Cant wait for the track video.
What you could do for the intake is put a 90 straight down through that hole and fab some ducting behind the bumper to shoot some air right into that filter
Dude, well done for both your work, and attitude. Keep it up. Cheers
I love the clock in the time lapses 😂 it’d be awesome if you always hid it somewhere in a time lapse
You need more airflow through the engine bay.
Two words my dude, bonnet vents. Don't need to be some insane d1 style vents. literally think 2 rectangular vents at the front of the bonnet will help move that hot air away. love the volvo dude!
It’s a sleeper…
@@LooseWheelFilms Could still make it look sleeper by just having subtle vents. Average person wouldn't know what they are for.
I think on the things you're discounting from all that heat management is keeping heat in the turbine makes it far more efficient. There was one study that showed just a turbo blanket improved turbo spool by 200rpm, which is significant.
IME air to water intercoolers suck for anything but a drag car that can't use an ice water tank, for a true street going car front mount is going to be king as they do not heat soak as bad. If you think about it, once you heat soak all that water you have to expend the energy to bring it back down to ambient.
I never knew that about turbo blankets! Makes sense though!
Chevolvo is such an awesome ride. 👌 fun to see it evolve. You needs a shop before winter.
A custom headlight with only low beams and a hole cutput on the high beam side letting air through into the turbo intake would be cool you still have lighting and cool air
I think a big problem is the exhaust crossover. Honestly it probably wouldn't be worth it at this point but a twin top mount turbo and a large air to air intercooler might get you better results just keeping the hot and cold sides farther apart.
You could try to do some sort scoop or something that would direct air from under the bumper to engine bay and then lift the hoodfrom near the winshield so the whole engine bay would stai more colder.
Maybe add some secret hood vents? Near the windshield cowling?
Also some inside fender ducts?
what about a diy cowl induction setup? some muscle cars had them mounted on the rear of the hood, and they would open when you got on the power and draw in cool air that collects on the windshield. you probably could build one pretty easily, and it opens via a vacuum actuator. when its closed, the car is still a sleeper as well. Check out cowl induction Chevelle SS pics if you're not familiar with the setup. Just an idea. good luck combating those underhood temps!
Gingium gonna have a full blown farmers tan by September
Does anyone know what the light is called at 3:48 ?
Your video editing and explaining have definitely stepped up after the move. Nice job
Thank you :)
Thanks for the report man. Very useful!
I hate to break it to you, but that gold tape wrap does nothing. It's touching the pipe so will just conduct any ambient heat straight into the pipe. The reason blankets and sleeves work is that they create an air gap, and air is a really crappy conductor which means it's a good insulator. As others have said, isolating the filter in an airbox will surely help keep the intake temps down. Notice that most factory cars draw from a snorkel to the front of the hood or an airbox separated from the engine bay.
Believe it or not I check your channel this morning to make sure I didn't miss a video
Wow the aluminum shield actually turned out rly good 😯😍
I tried my best :)
@@_Gingium_ He replied 😳😂
An even better mod would be a hood vent. Just use the cowl for a nice vent
theres something fun about doing heat management, it's therapeutic i think
What about MPG? Decreasing intake temp will increase fuel consumption and promote worse fuel atomization. But for max power its obviously beneficial to keep it cool.
Gold tape does virtually nothing. Heat doesn't transfer under an engine bay because of radiation, it transfers by convection. Ideally you'd want something like the heat wrap material on your charge pipes.
Hood vents make a huge difference
Let's GOOO best videos out here on TH-cam!!!!
Thank you!
Is it time for the hood scoop?
Putting a scoop on the hood would help with the air flow and heat dissipation. Just a thought
You need to get the hot air flowing out of the engine bay. You’d be surprised at the amount of difference those ricey hood risers make. Experiment with venting.
I was just thinking hmm I ran out of car content to watch hope gingium posts today
can relate
Its a sleeper it gotta be fast not nice, so don't worry about it not being professionally modded!
Gotta vent all that heat out bro!!!!!!! Get a hood spacer or find a way to add a louver
holy shit you used to game about cars i get on youtube and 5 years later dudes building full blown race cars
I can't stop myself from laughing when I see this guys face while doing a big pull haha. (no hate, just love the concentration vs joy vs pantsshitting)
Would be cool if you make it look like the headlight is busted but really its a hole for the turbo intake and make some rough cuts in the hood for heat but make it look like the hood was damaged.
Damn Gingium you basically have a McLaren F1 with all that gold tape.
Lil spot you dont really think of is the valley pan you could heat wrap
Have you thought about insulating the under side of the hood? Might help with the heat soak especially down in GA
Get a ram air hood works wonders when keeping engine cool