I myself in particular run 12 volts because it on a yacht with 2 large diesel engines and 2 large alternators. All the dc systems on the boat use 12 volts as well as the engine controls and starters. I use a 4000 watt inverter only for the starting current for the air conditioner that runs after start at about 1300 watts. It just needs that 8000 watt surge to startup. Occasionally I will run 2x 1500 watt cooking appliances and the 4000 handles it (without the A/C of course, but the 3000 watt Renogy did not. It is not for any more than 15 minutes that this happens and is pretty rate. I do have the DC fused at 300 amps, so it would blow just before 4000 watts anyway. Using lithium, I mostly have 13 volts available for the unit. I am however having issues with the floating ground and am not convinced the shorting ground to neutral is the proper way to go about it. I am just going just going to hook up the ground wire to the neutral lug so that I have effectively bonded the neutral and ground, just not the inverter ground. This may be why your inverter is failing constantly. My being off grid in the Bahamas for another 6 weeks, I cannot risk a problem bonding the ground and neutral in the inverter in case this is what is making it fail. All my refrigeration requires this inverter and I cannot chance it failing. Changing to a 24 volt system is just not feasible because of the huge starting needs of the engines that I use the 20kw of lithium for. I would need to install 2x more 8D batteries if I went this route and just do not have the room for them. Another 250 lbs in the boat is also something I don't want as well as the problems associated with lead batteries such as corrosiveness and flammable gasses. This is why I have a 4000 watt inverter on 12 volts.
I've been running that Inverter 4000 Watt Pure sine 24 Volt in my House for over a Year 99% of the Time. It's done that to me a few Times , "the warning beep, but it reset after a shutdown. Your Rig looks like fun, i hope to get one too & add a 3-4000 Watt . Indiana .
There's the problem. 12v. For the life of me I can't figure out why people insist on using 12v for anything over 2000 watts. You will continue to fight that system until you upgrade it to 24v.Ask me how I know. Been there done that. I went 24v and no more issues and now 4 years on a Giandel 4000 watt inverter. Blew two up on 12v. You simply cannot get 4000 watts out of 12 volts without abusing equipment.
Did you find out why those inverters failed? It seems ridiculous to me that you can't run the inverter while the alternator is charging the batteries. Running the inverter without the alternator running would kill the batteries I no time. What are your thoughts?
When we were researching everything was Victron this and Victron that. But our budget at the times was not...lol. Spent 2,000 on the batteries and the $700 price tag of this inverter sounded nice. We didn't want to have to rewire the existing on board power management system so this was the solution. That said we haven't had a problem again once we stopped using the inverter while the batteries were charging. Next time it will be a Victron.
I agree with the comments that 4000w is too much for a 12v system. Just do the math, 333 amps if fully loaded and 666 amp surges???? Even your 2/0 wire is not large enough. When you get into amperage that high you have to start worrying about milliohm resistant connections. Sometimes even a crimp can cause them and then you have voltage drops and heat. Anytime I go over 2000w I start looking at 24v systems and use a 24v-12v DC-DC converter if needed. You made an interesting comment that I hadn't thought of. If you do run this going down the road and the alternator dishes out 15vdc or more wonder what that could do to the inverter? Also if you have a bad diode in the alternator again could cause issues. Good luck on your 3rd unit, keep us informed as I've purchased two 24v 3000w Gaindel's and so far so good but only a few months into it. But note, at 24v & 3000w my maxed out current is only 125 amps! Much easier/cheaper to wire and less chances of voltage drops. 🙂
We don't max out all 4000 all the time. It does work well for the microwave, fans and coffee maker. Provides enough for general living. Have had no problems ever since we stopped using it while its charging. In retrospect we will upgrade to a diffrent system next time, probably solar and lithium. But for a cheap system this one works well and we didnt have to remove the onboard energy management system or rewire the entire rig.
@@Down2RV I've run fans, coffee makers, CPAP, home style refrigerators, & microwaves from a ProSine 2000w inverter & 900w solar for years with no issues. Being smaller also reduces the parasitic losses too. I've switched to lithium and now thinking of adding AC to the equation so trying out the 24v systems now then adding 1340w solar. So far much more impressed with 24v over the old 12v I had. Glad this one is holding up, I've heard almost all good things about the Giandel. The few bad were always a questionable application or installation. My last inverter was $2000 so this $400 one is a nice bang-4-buck. 🙂
We used a fuse for the first install, subsequent installs we installed a manual reset breaker. I cant remember what amperage right now but I will look and get back to you.
You could Depending on your battery bank. We would be able to and run other things like AC fans mainly because we updated our battery back before we moved in full time.
![[UNCUT]“ฅนตื่นธรรม”ปะทะ“หมอปลา-ปู่มหามุนี-อั๋นโอกิ”สะเทือนกระทรวงเวทมนตร์ Iคนดังนั่งเคลียร์I10 ตค.67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/peMD_SAkwNc/mqdefault.jpg)
I myself in particular run 12 volts because it on a yacht with 2 large diesel engines and 2 large alternators. All the dc systems on the boat use 12 volts as well as the engine controls and starters. I use a 4000 watt inverter only for the starting current for the air conditioner that runs after start at about 1300 watts. It just needs that 8000 watt surge to startup. Occasionally I will run 2x 1500 watt cooking appliances and the 4000 handles it (without the A/C of course, but the 3000 watt Renogy did not. It is not for any more than 15 minutes that this happens and is pretty rate. I do have the DC fused at 300 amps, so it would blow just before 4000 watts anyway. Using lithium, I mostly have 13 volts available for the unit. I am however having issues with the floating ground and am not convinced the shorting ground to neutral is the proper way to go about it. I am just going just going to hook up the ground wire to the neutral lug so that I have effectively bonded the neutral and ground, just not the inverter ground. This may be why your inverter is failing constantly. My being off grid in the Bahamas for another 6 weeks, I cannot risk a problem bonding the ground and neutral in the inverter in case this is what is making it fail. All my refrigeration requires this inverter and I cannot chance it failing.
Changing to a 24 volt system is just not feasible because of the huge starting needs of the engines that I use the 20kw of lithium for. I would need to install 2x more 8D batteries if I went this route and just do not have the room for them. Another 250 lbs in the boat is also something I don't want as well as the problems associated with lead batteries such as corrosiveness and flammable gasses. This is why I have a 4000 watt inverter on 12 volts.
I've been running that Inverter 4000 Watt Pure sine 24 Volt in my House for over a Year 99% of the Time. It's done that to me a few Times , "the warning beep, but it reset after a shutdown. Your Rig looks like fun, i hope to get one too & add a 3-4000 Watt . Indiana .
There's the problem. 12v. For the life of me I can't figure out why people insist on using 12v for anything over 2000 watts. You will continue to fight that system until you upgrade it to 24v.Ask me how I know. Been there done that. I went 24v and no more issues and now 4 years on a Giandel 4000 watt inverter. Blew two up on 12v. You simply cannot get 4000 watts out of 12 volts without abusing equipment.
Jeez, overheating in that small space?
Did you find out why those inverters failed?
It seems ridiculous to me that you can't run the inverter while the alternator is charging the batteries.
Running the inverter without the alternator running would kill the batteries I no time.
What are your thoughts?
I had looked at that brand… they all have pretty mixed reviews on Amazon though… unless you go with a victron multiplus lol
When we were researching everything was Victron this and Victron that. But our budget at the times was not...lol. Spent 2,000 on the batteries and the $700 price tag of this inverter sounded nice. We didn't want to have to rewire the existing on board power management system so this was the solution. That said we haven't had a problem again once we stopped using the inverter while the batteries were charging. Next time it will be a Victron.
Just bought the 24v version. Hooking it up to 300ah of lithium. Have you had any more issues with yors?
Nope. It has been working fine ever since.
I agree with the comments that 4000w is too much for a 12v system. Just do the math, 333 amps if fully loaded and 666 amp surges???? Even your 2/0 wire is not large enough. When you get into amperage that high you have to start worrying about milliohm resistant connections. Sometimes even a crimp can cause them and then you have voltage drops and heat. Anytime I go over 2000w I start looking at 24v systems and use a 24v-12v DC-DC converter if needed. You made an interesting comment that I hadn't thought of. If you do run this going down the road and the alternator dishes out 15vdc or more wonder what that could do to the inverter? Also if you have a bad diode in the alternator again could cause issues. Good luck on your 3rd unit, keep us informed as I've purchased two 24v 3000w Gaindel's and so far so good but only a few months into it. But note, at 24v & 3000w my maxed out current is only 125 amps! Much easier/cheaper to wire and less chances of voltage drops. 🙂
We don't max out all 4000 all the time. It does work well for the microwave, fans and coffee maker. Provides enough for general living. Have had no problems ever since we stopped using it while its charging. In retrospect we will upgrade to a diffrent system next time, probably solar and lithium. But for a cheap system this one works well and we didnt have to remove the onboard energy management system or rewire the entire rig.
@@Down2RV I've run fans, coffee makers, CPAP, home style refrigerators, & microwaves from a ProSine 2000w inverter & 900w solar for years with no issues. Being smaller also reduces the parasitic losses too. I've switched to lithium and now thinking of adding AC to the equation so trying out the 24v systems now then adding 1340w solar. So far much more impressed with 24v over the old 12v I had. Glad this one is holding up, I've heard almost all good things about the Giandel. The few bad were always a questionable application or installation. My last inverter was $2000 so this $400 one is a nice bang-4-buck. 🙂
Did you use a fuse or breaker, between battery and inverter? If so, what size??
We used a fuse for the first install, subsequent installs we installed a manual reset breaker. I cant remember what amperage right now but I will look and get back to you.
300 amp
@@Down2RV YOU'RE AWESOME THANK YOU!
What is the working power
about 4000 watts is good.
Hi mate what amps would you need for a 4000w?
We are using a 300 amp fuse on the 12v side.
@@Down2RV 4000/12= 334 minimum
I like the 4/0 but man they expensive as hell
Why on God's Earth 🌎 you want to run 4000w at 12v? Iove that brand inverter, the sad thing is I can't afford that brand.
can't boil a kettle of water?????????????????? with this
You could Depending on your battery bank. We would be able to and run other things like AC fans mainly because we updated our battery back before we moved in full time.