Awesome video, thank you for posting this. Can you tell me the exact part name for this. When I google it, it’s showing me the main ignition switch with new sets of keys
Here is a link to them on Rock Auto. Apologies for the late response www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/mitsubishi,2003,galant,2.4l+l4,1417216,electrical-switch+&+relay,ignition+starter+switch,4700
@@jaypuckett6876 I definitely could have, not sure what I was thinking other than maybe being worried I wouldn't have enough slack in the wires to get a good angle, but from what I see in the video I could've twisted it a little after getting the screws out to get better access to the clip on the plug.
Hi. My 2004 outlander has been doing this for a month.I assumed it was the key lock cylinder worn out since i had to move the key around to get it to start.now after seeing your video im not sure.How did you determine it was the electrical switch and not the lock cylinder?
Honestly I just googled it haha. It did fix it for months but just recently it has started again. Basically I just looked up what it means if you have to jiggle the key in the on position for it to start and it came up mostly saying that's what I had to replace so I did.
when you turned the key originally did you hear the fuel pump turn on? trying to figure out if the problem on mine is this switch or something with the fuel pump since I don't hear the fuel pump at all. Thanks for the video - well done
That I'm not sure of because my ears aren't great so I can never hear any fuel pump I have tried to lol. But I would assume it should start going in accessory and accessory on mine worked fine, I only had an issue with start. Actually recently I had to install a starter button because the ignition switch I did in this video crapped out again lol
So I believe the way it works is it simply is turned by the key so you will be fine to use the regular key still. It's like replacing your phone charger cable and not the brick. The signal is still sent and it all works fine.
the screw wasn't a problem it was disconnecting the electrical connectors on the barrel that have been a huge headache, is there an easier way of separating them? The big connector was fine but it was the smaller connector that I'm having issues with, help anyone out there
@@cactar4minecraft yeah the small connector sits on the chassis of the barrel, there is a grove either side where technically it should just slide forward and out, took me 10 minutes to get to this step and now 12 hours trying to slide the connector off the chassis without breaking any wires, cheers anyway
slide top (small) connector off rails-use flat screwdriver to push back. then remove the 2 t-15 screws, then pull switch out of socket. now you have easy access to back of large connector to push on tab.
It wouldn't click it just wouldn't even make a sound so the switch wasn't activating and telling the started to turn. So I had to juggle the key while starting it to get it to turn over. But to this day it starts up just fine with the new switch.
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Cool I think this is the same process as my 04 outlander, thanks
Hey so I have a galant 2.4 n it’s no crank no start or nothing I can hear the fuel pump turn on but should I do this ??
Thanks for the video!
Awesome video, thank you for posting this. Can you tell me the exact part name for this. When I google it, it’s showing me the main ignition switch with new sets of keys
Here is a link to them on Rock Auto. Apologies for the late response www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/mitsubishi,2003,galant,2.4l+l4,1417216,electrical-switch+&+relay,ignition+starter+switch,4700
Could you just took out the screws that hold the ignition switch in and would have it all free to disconnect the other wire clip from ignition switch?
@@jaypuckett6876 I definitely could have, not sure what I was thinking other than maybe being worried I wouldn't have enough slack in the wires to get a good angle, but from what I see in the video I could've twisted it a little after getting the screws out to get better access to the clip on the plug.
Hi. My 2004 outlander has been doing this for a month.I assumed it was the key lock cylinder worn out since i had to move the key around to get it to start.now after seeing your video im not sure.How did you determine it was the electrical switch and not the lock cylinder?
Honestly I just googled it haha. It did fix it for months but just recently it has started again. Basically I just looked up what it means if you have to jiggle the key in the on position for it to start and it came up mostly saying that's what I had to replace so I did.
@@cactar4minecraft Thanks so much for the info and response. appreciate it
Torque bit
when you turned the key originally did you hear the fuel pump turn on? trying to figure out if the problem on mine is this switch or something with the fuel pump since I don't hear the fuel pump at all. Thanks for the video - well done
That I'm not sure of because my ears aren't great so I can never hear any fuel pump I have tried to lol. But I would assume it should start going in accessory and accessory on mine worked fine, I only had an issue with start. Actually recently I had to install a starter button because the ignition switch I did in this video crapped out again lol
@@cactar4minecraft yikes but also a good excuse for a fancier upgrade. Thanks for the response
Would it have to have it's original key?!
So I believe the way it works is it simply is turned by the key so you will be fine to use the regular key still. It's like replacing your phone charger cable and not the brick. The signal is still sent and it all works fine.
if it is a transponder key yes unless you program a new one or harvest the chip from the old key amf make a bypass module with it
I have the same car but only problem is that I have the switch on but there's this green key in car light and my car won't start
That means the key has to be programmed to your car.
the screw wasn't a problem it was disconnecting the electrical connectors on the barrel that have been a huge headache, is there an easier way of separating them? The big connector was fine but it was the smaller connector that I'm having issues with, help anyone out there
Nothing that I could think of that I didn't mention in the video. Maybe a tiny screw driver or something
@@cactar4minecraft yeah the small connector sits on the chassis of the barrel, there is a grove either side where technically it should just slide forward and out, took me 10 minutes to get to this step and now 12 hours trying to slide the connector off the chassis without breaking any wires, cheers anyway
slide top (small) connector off rails-use flat screwdriver to push back. then remove the 2 t-15 screws, then pull switch out of socket. now you have easy access to back of large connector to push on tab.
2002
Should be the same for 1999-2003 to my knowledge
Not the same on 2007
When you turned the key over originally did the starter Click? Or do nothing at all?
It wouldn't click it just wouldn't even make a sound so the switch wasn't activating and telling the started to turn. So I had to juggle the key while starting it to get it to turn over. But to this day it starts up just fine with the new switch.