Man I went from a skar 1200 to this kicker 1200 and what a difference! I didn't know the sound quality mattered with different amps but this kicker amp is awesome!
Imagine you get an amp that puts out a clean 95 or more dB signal to noise. 70 dB signal to noise ratio is sub-par for a $300+ amp with only 1200 watts lol
That is 100% correct same thing happened with my cxa 1200.1 before I swapped to the ofc power ground wire I was using the CCA 4 gauge Metra Amp Install kit sold at AutoZone and it would put my amp into protect when I cranked up the volume too high now with the 4 gauge ofc wire issue gone completely so there it is this guy is telling the truth here!
Actually, since your whole system is based off of your power output. Go with the 0 gauge OFC. Also do a big three with with all zero gauge OFC ! You'll be happy and thanking yourself in the future.
You definitely have enough space for a nice custom box. You can make it shallower but wider and get another cf out of it with a larger port. I bet it already sounds like thunder as you have it setup. 👍
When I was having trouble with my amp keep going into protection mode when I turned it up or the base hit and I had to rewire my speakers they weren't connected right and the ohms didn't match the capability the amp
Rite on man, glad to see your up and runnen. Those batterys and wire's all make a huge difference especially when your running a good amp and subwoofer like you have. Very nice set up you have their, if you can, get that box widened and shoot for at least 5 cubic feet and omg that thing will just romp bro
@@rozay318, yeah bro of you build a diagonal type box and go as wide as your trunk space will allow you will be able to make that happen no prob. I am not sure how far away you are from my location but i would have no prob building a bad ass box for you and make it work as well as look very nice. The right box and that subwoofer you could be throwing out some serious DB's
I was having issues with mine. I was about to do the same with the wiring like you did. But I have a decent 4gauge wiring. I would check the volts on the amp when the bass would hit an it would drop to the mid 12s so it wasn’t a power issue. After some heavy ass research a comment I found on a site made me realize I purchased the model right before they added the 1ohm stable to the cxa amps! I have a 43cxa12001 amp an for it to be 1ohm stable needs to me serial# 46cxa12001. Amps are identical so I was bummed out, cause I had a L7 Q class dual 2ohm sub running at 1ohm. For a small fee I was able to swap out my 2ohm sub for a 4ohm one.
@Sxmtexx then that’s ur issue, it’s that cheap CCA wiring. Order some OFC from skyhighaudio. It’s still priced a bit high like 70$ for a 4gu kit, but if you have PayPal I think you can do a payment plan with them. Kicker has a video were they explain the use of good OFC wiring against CCA wire an it really helped a lot. It showed that CCA wire overheats to much an doesn’t let enough current pass through causing the amps to push an force more power from them draining your charging system faster an overheating an protecting the amps before they can even reach their rated power. I started having issues with my amp protecting for no reason when I couldn’t even turn it up half way, I searched an checked my system an everything was fine, so I changed my CCA wiring to OFC an that fixed the issue! I was so happy an would never use CCA wiring again!
@Sxmtexx Also if money is tight you can measure just how much power wiring an ground you need an order the length from skyhighaudio an use that for your power an ground. Only problem is they’ll be the same color.
@Sxmtexx yeah that would be the issue, OFC wiring is the way to go. Almost have the same setup. I had the cxa1200.1 with 2-12 L7Ts, but I went an got a single 12-L7Q with the loaded enclosure from kicker an couldn’t be happier now that everything is working fine now.
I have the same amp on a skar ddx 15 d4. It hits hard lol my gain little less than half. No bass boost. Low pass around 75 or 80 Hertz. Tuned with O scope. Also running 4 gauge kicker ofc wiring.
I am having the same issue with my cxa1200.1. I have 4 sundown sa8 subs wired to 1ohm. 4g ofc wiring grounded to the body. Grinded to bare metal. Was doing great for the first couple weeks. Then it started to reset the whole system radio highs amp. When I turned the bass up. I upgraded the alt to a 170 replaced the battery with a yellow top.
Most big amps and when running multiple quality amps require an upgraded high amp alternator. Most factory alternators are like between 85 and 130. When strapping a big amp it can draw close to 200.
I dont mean to be off topic but does any of you know of a trick to get back into an instagram account? I was dumb forgot the password. I appreciate any assistance you can give me!
@Angel Lee i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and im trying it out atm. Seems to take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
I've been running a smart 3 and then an hd3000 taramps with two batteries,, big 3 and 0g cca wire. For over 3 years my shit banged hard. Recently my bass started to lack and causing my amp to clip at lower volume. Long story short I checked everthing and changed my wires to OFC. That didn't fix my problem, FML. Batteries are good and so is my alternator. ground is solid af and still. LOL at this point I'm going to consider buying another car
When turning on my 04 corolla immediately my head unit/amp goes into “protection” mode. I have it connected to a cheap $60 Walmart battery. The amp is 1000w but it’s very cheap so I doubt it’s true. Do you always need a hefty battery when installing any amp??
I was doing okay with 100 and 140 amp alternators on my 71 Chevelle with dual 4 gauge wiring and big 3 upgrade. But now I have a 240 amp JS Alternator and 2 runs of 0 gauge wiring and big 4 upgrade to the alternator and grounds. I have the cxa1800.1t on a JL Audio 12w7
thanks fro this post. went from a kicker 800.1 to the kicker 1200.1 and was getting the protect mode at high volumes, triple checked voltage and it was set at 34.5 due to running 1ohm load, triple checked speaker connections, even had my brother swap out his box which had which had two skar audio svr's D4's also at 1om load and amp still had issues. Changed out all wiring to true OFC and issues are gone. Lets me know now why installer was the cheapest in town.LOL, This amp is a beast with the proper wiring
I have an hifonics 800watt amp and every time I connect my jacks to amp it goes into protection mode but wen my speaker wires are hooked up the amp doesn’t go into protection mode?
Had mine for 4 years with 1 kicker l7 12. I replaced the block up front. Now when bass hits the amp powers off. Have 0 gage power wire and ground. Put new battery in as I tought that was it. But that made it worse.
I got the same amp kicker cxa1200.1 on a fosgate t1 12 single 12 subwoofer. Big 4 with 0 gauge all ofc wires, yellow top optima under the hood and xs power d925 battery in the trunk. Volt stays at 13 voltage at max volume. Slapping hard.😂
I have a kicker cxa 400.1 with 2 10 inch single voic coil and everytime i put the volume at 45 on my pioneer headunit the protect mode starts flashing. I will be changing my power and ground
Hey brother, I have a 07 Tahoe and Friday I’m buying 2 L7S 12” and I can either get the CXA1200.1 or 1800.1, my alternator is 160 Amps stock. I’m getting Oxygen Free Cables. You think I would have to get a 2nd battery? And do you think I would be better off with the 1200 watt amp so I won’t have to do much to upgrade my electrical?
Nathaniel Sumner what up man are you getting them at dual 4? If so you can get the 1200.1 that would be fine. Either way both would work. But I’ve seen people use The 1200.1 with just 2 it would definitely push those subs. As far as second battery. I honestly don’t think you need one since you have a pretty good size alternator. If you have a little extra money buy an XS POWER BATTERY and install it under the hood as a starter battery. I actually just have one battery which is my starter battery but whatever my alternator couldn’t make up for the battery does. Either way both amps would work but you don’t wanna get something too too powerful that will over power subs. Look into those battery’s my guy. I’m going to upload a video pretty soon of my new box. I was working with three boxes before. The box I got now is crazy loud. as far as playing your car while it’s off I wouldn’t recommend doing it unless you have that XS power battery trust me man I bought an extra battery for my car thinking that I need it to a couple guys even told me to get an extra battery in the back all I did was buy One problem was solved just make sure you update all your wires and you get zero gauge from the battery to the subs
I may go with the Alpine M1200 AMP. That kicker CXA1200.1 pulls up to 108 AMPs! The 1800.1 pulls up to 168 AMPS! A normal 1200 Watt amp should pull about 58 Amps and that’s at MAX power.
Nathaniel Sumner yea I learned the hard way. I was struggling to get the damn thing going for about a month. Come to find out it was too damn power hungry
I have 2 l7 dvc 2ohm 12’s, ported box, cxa1800.1, big 3, 0ga ofc ran throughout, factory 170amp alt. I can turn it up pretty loud but when I go to show someone what the system is capable of (especially with a song with constant bass) it switches to protect mode. Do you suggest the battery or alt upgrade or both?
@@jkaraska if you say you got good power wire it shouldn't be your wire check your ground make sure grounded to bare metal and check your fuse make sure you got the right fuse for you amplifiers and your fuse can't be cheap either and if it's not that your clipping your amp set your gain with a smd dd-1 and you can always add an extra battery it helps with your voltage more power the more happier your amp will be. www.amazon.com/Meade-Designs-SMD-DD-1-Distortion/dp/B00802PJ7O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540182241&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=smd+dd1 Good luck basshead.
I just hooked up my cxa1200.1 yesterday on my 04 Honda Civic all I did was a big 3 upgrade and I got the kicker OFC 4G amp kit it was working fine for a few hours but now when hard bass hits hard it will shut up was that the same problem you had?
PacoGP17 that’s exactly the same problem I had. You need more power watch my other video on how I fixed it. You either need a bigger alternator or you can buy a xs power battery like I did. That amp is very power hungry. It pulls up up to 108 amps of current. You definitely need to upgrade the electrical system especially if you’re alternator is 100 A or less
How would this amp pair to a new version of the dual kicker comp r 12s at 2 ohm with a red top agm, 1/0 awg welding cable upgrade replacing not just added to, all factory power and grounds? I can run 1200w to a single 15 and voltage drops to maybe 13v on stock 105 amp alt.
Well the upgrade is not necessarily for the 15 inch it was for the kicker amplifier that I have. The amplifier pulls up to 108 A and I didn’t have enough power that’s why my amp kept shutting down whenever the bass would hit. All you have to do is replace the battery to a high output battery like the one in my video. I still have everything else stock all I did was upgrade my wires because I wanted better performance but you don’t have to do that. I was using cheaper wire before and when I changed it out to OFC wire it made everything else more powerful my door speakers went much higher and more clear because of the power.
What do u have your amp tuned to I have the cxa 1200.1 hooked to a L7 model 41L7122 model sub and it slaps still working on the tunning havent had much time to work on it
marcus Hey what’s up buddy. This amplifier pulls a lot of current. It’s definitely recommend it to do an upgrade on your electrical system only way to find out is to try it and if it turns off or goes into protect mode then it’s because there is not enough power. You might want look into doing the big three if you haven’t done so or get a bigger battery.
tony stark Thanks bro! As for your question. Those are amps are both pretty powerful. You can probably do the 1200.1 and still have a little power left over. If you want to push your subs to the max then 1800.1 just remember to set the gains correctly or you can blow the subs.
Just a question: were you able to put the gain more than half up? Cause my amp is like 1/3 of the gain, & still goes into protection. I can turn down the volume and it’s loud again, but I feel that it should be louder. If you’re able to run your amp more than half the gain, then I should upgrade my electrical system.
daniel ramirez no actually I had it set more than half way to maybe about 7-8 and it went into protection mode. U definitely need to upgrade your electrical system for this amp. All u have to do is upgrade your battery and do the big 3. I have an XS power battery and my subs still going hard.
I know this video is old but I just brought skar audio 12 dual and they are 2,400 watts and an 2,800 watts amp and my amp goes to protection mode when turning my bass up and I running 4 gauge wire do you think I should get the same wire and gauge that you have
I fixed mine by upgrading the electrical system. I purchased that xs power battery and swapped all the wiring. I also did the big three upgrade. But to be honest I think it all came from the XS power battery. The system is still going strong today. Well what something I will tell you after I upgraded all the wire to 100% copper I noticed a big difference in sound quality. My door speakers definitely got louder.
Hey bro I have a 2006 Chevy Silverado single cab I woke up this morning my kicker kx 1200.1 was in protection mode my woofer were making a thumbing sound so I disconnected woofers but am still clipping I replaced all new wires with stinger still clipping every time I put remote wire it clips I put my old amp and it works wat you think mabe a bad kicker amp and so I have too run a 0 gauge wire to back farad and from farad to amp with 4 gauge any advice would be greatly appreciated gracias
Hey what’s up brother. Sorry for the late response. How long has it been doing that? Usually when it does it’s because there’s not enough power to power the amplifier so it’ll go into protection mode. I ended up corrected the issue with a more powerful battery upfront. As well as replacing all the wiring. But these amplifiers are very very power-hungry so if you do not have enough power it will go into protection mode. One thing you can do is get a multimeter and measure your battery voltage buy the vehicle van and then try turning the amplifier on and see what it drops to because most likely it’s going to drop down voltage.
Ok thnk you bro I will check Dat so if I put ca farad do you think that would help my battery already 850 cold cranking amps I only got 2 10inch kicker rt nothing big and this amp but gud looking out about a week already I noticed something went my phone started to pause with music then in a couple of seconds would turn back on then after like I said it started making a thumbing sound so it was clipping I'll try it again I'll get a volt Metter what Amps should volt Metter read
@@tatuado5875 first thing you wanna do is double check your ground make sure that there’s nothing that is hitting it. Secondly you want to test your voltage on your multimeter. using the multimeter you want to put it on the power and ground on the amplifier. Typically it should read about 11.5 to 14.5 V connect the probes to the amp and turn up the volume. What you want to do is re-create the issue that you’re having so as the multimeter is connected raise the volume up and if you see that the voltage drops then it’s most likely related to a power issue. Also you want to check the ohms on your amplifier make sure that you have it wired to the correct ohm impedence. And again you can use your multimeter check that as well
Hey. Good job on the setup. I remember asking you couple months ago about the issue. I havent change my wiring yet. I have it set up just enough so that it dont hit protection mode. Im going to try to first upgrade to ofc wire. I dont really mess around with caps so therefore I cant really put in the 0 gauge. But if I have to you bet I will install one in. As for the battery and big 3 and the cap, was your lights dimming or are they now?
Also forgot to say I upgraded my headlights to LED and its harder to notice any headlight dim. I do notice it on my digital dashboard when the bass hits. Therefore I def need to do something soon or take the system completely out until I get my wiring and all the prep work done.
I actually have HIDs in my vehicle so I never noticed any dimming not even on the dashboard the only light that I noticed would dim but like very very little was the domelight and after I replaced my battery to the XS power battery That was gone but I never have experienced any dimming issues on headlights
So how many ohms was it wired to when it was cutting out and how many ohm's is a wire to now... I had the same problem when I wired it to one of them but I fixed it by running dual inputs
Jj Hill I had it down to 2 ohms. My problem was that I just didn’t have enough power to supply the amplifier. This amp pulls lots of current. Up to 106 amps
Man I have the same amp and the same problem but I already did a xs power 0 ga ofc big3 and have the kicker 4ga ofc wire kit and a brand new optima yella top what am I missing I’m running 2 dd612s
When the bass hits the base turns off and the voices is the only thing you can hear I have fixed it already though check out the other video on how to fix it
Hey i recently got rockville Ofc wires. Noticed it has 120amps fuse. What fuse size are you using? My cheap wiring had 150anl fuse. Now 120 anl gold... fuse box is also slighty smaller. Once again i appreciate the help.
Glenn Ortega if it goes into protect still you don’t have enough current to power that amp most likely. That amp is a pain in the ass. It’s very power hungry. But if it does work you Will probably wanna upgrade the fuse either way otherwise you’ll be blowing them. Better to add more power than to add less.
@@rozay318 I recommend going with 100 amp fuse asap because they won't pop till 150 A anyway. If you have a short that 250 amp fuse will never pop trust me. Your car will burn down before that fuse pops
@@rozay318 well aint that a bitch. Did u buy sub new n not break in. Plus if u was gettin red light while L7 was hooked up. That means L7 was gettin a big fluctuation down amd up on the wattage and that could do it to. Plus i dont like the L7s before q class. I like the hard black with grey tear drops like 2007 eddition. All otherseries of L7s i end up with the polk where its bottoming out. I have 4 L7s on just a Phoenix Gold Titanium 1200.1 anniversary eddition. And kicket was recomending the 2400.1 kx or zx.
If i could send a pic on here i show u wich L7s that hav never given me a problem. But i know q class is supose to b best. But i hav been tryin all dif subs i on alpines new type r now. Ya they get down for round sub but i like to ride and bang for hours at a time in da car with 4 12 L7s. N only round sub within a decent price range is orion hcca and massive audio hippo or the summo. The 3 12s i have them in a jeep liberty and its a bitch its like a giant box itself im used to always havin trunks.
Jeremiah hodge well if he only had 1 L7 12 original, those are only rated at 750rms and this amp pushes 1200+watts at 2-1ohm. Which probably why it blew on him.
Gerardo Gomez It’s actually quite easy there’s a few videos on TH-cam that explain how to do it he just have to have the right equipment to do it I found mine the easiest at sonic electronics TH-cam channel just type in sonic electronics big three
rhurtadorh32 they are both really good amps. The cxa1800.1 is good. The zx is an older amp but does have a lot of power. It’s really up to you. Look up some videos on both of them. They both capable of pushing those 15s you have
noha saffah You can purchase your very own XS power batter from different websites. I recommend you get yours from down for sound shop.com you can even look up the Instagram down for sound. JP Is the owner he’s pretty cool about all the items he sells and he’s legit check it out
EricTheBoringOne I appreciate the input. I don’t know if u watched the video or listened to what I said but I did do the big 3. I’ll attach this link so you can watch just in case you don’t know what it is. th-cam.com/video/gnmXKjm3tZE/w-d-xo.html
River Wright I appreciate the input but you’re wrong buddy. Google the Kicker CXA 1200.1 terminals. The thick black wire you see is in the ground the blue thick wire is for the 12 V. The red speaker wire you see is for the positive and the black one is in the negative. there are two positives and two negatives for the speaker wire. Amp still going strong by the way and it’s been almost 2 years 💪🏼
Skar amp soon as I turn on radio/amp it goes in and out protect nonstop Check my channel for video I only have power cable, ground cable, and remote wire connected nothing else. Remote wire is getting 11.5-12 volts tested with multimeter Power and ground getting 14ish volts in the amp tested with multimeter
Man I went from a skar 1200 to this kicker 1200 and what a difference! I didn't know the sound quality mattered with different amps but this kicker amp is awesome!
Imagine you get an amp that puts out a clean 95 or more dB signal to noise. 70 dB signal to noise ratio is sub-par for a $300+ amp with only 1200 watts lol
THE KICKER CXA SERIES ARE THE SHIT!! I love em!! I got the 600.1 on 2 L7’s!!!
I have the exact same amp setup with the 1800.4 crunch and the cxa1200, about to do the install of the kicker in the morning!
That is 100% correct same thing happened with my cxa 1200.1 before I swapped to the ofc power ground wire I was using the CCA 4 gauge Metra Amp Install kit sold at AutoZone and it would put my amp into protect when I cranked up the volume too high now with the 4 gauge ofc wire issue gone completely so there it is this guy is telling the truth here!
Thanks brother!
May be my problem.
Actually, since your whole system is based off of your power output. Go with the 0 gauge OFC. Also do a big three with with all zero gauge OFC ! You'll be happy and thanking yourself in the future.
Will Ofc power wire fix the problem or will i need rcas too?
Thanks for the vid bro, I was having the same issue, I put a upgraded alternator and a second battery, solved my issue.
You definitely have enough space for a nice custom box. You can make it shallower but wider and get another cf out of it with a larger port. I bet it already sounds like thunder as you have it setup. 👍
When I was having trouble with my amp keep going into protection mode when I turned it up or the base hit and I had to rewire my speakers they weren't connected right and the ohms didn't match the capability the amp
Rite on man, glad to see your up and runnen. Those batterys and wire's all make a huge difference especially when your running a good amp and subwoofer like you have. Very nice set up you have their, if you can, get that box widened and shoot for at least 5 cubic feet and omg that thing will just romp bro
Jeff Taylor damn I have to look into that man. I wish I had more space but thanks bro I appreciate your help!
@@rozay318, yeah bro of you build a diagonal type box and go as wide as your trunk space will allow you will be able to make that happen no prob. I am not sure how far away you are from my location but i would have no prob building a bad ass box for you and make it work as well as look very nice. The right box and that subwoofer you could be throwing out some serious DB's
@@rozay318, that is another thing, when it comes to big subwoofers like these, they command power as well as space.
Jeff Taylor where u located?
Jeff Taylor space wise I’m looking like height is what kills me.. the box I have now is at 15 3/4 tall anything bigger won’t fit.
Just watched your last video. OFC is the only way to go. Definitely can't push 1200rms with a $20 amp kit.
Yeah you’re definitely right I ended up switching everything out and boy the music was more crisp and louder. More bang for your buck
Have the same issue thanks for the advice
Having the same problem, thx for the info I just ordered the upgraded wires ofc sky high , I hope it works. I have the same amp with 2 l7 12’s
I was having issues with mine. I was about to do the same with the wiring like you did. But I have a decent 4gauge wiring. I would check the volts on the amp when the bass would hit an it would drop to the mid 12s so it wasn’t a power issue. After some heavy ass research a comment I found on a site made me realize I purchased the model right before they added the 1ohm stable to the cxa amps! I have a 43cxa12001 amp an for it to be 1ohm stable needs to me serial# 46cxa12001. Amps are identical so I was bummed out, cause I had a L7 Q class dual 2ohm sub running at 1ohm. For a small fee I was able to swap out my 2ohm sub for a 4ohm one.
@Sxmtexx are you using some OFC wiring? I ordered some from sky high an worked wonders an fixed power issues
@Sxmtexx then that’s ur issue, it’s that cheap CCA wiring. Order some OFC from skyhighaudio. It’s still priced a bit high like 70$ for a 4gu kit, but if you have PayPal I think you can do a payment plan with them. Kicker has a video were they explain the use of good OFC wiring against CCA wire an it really helped a lot. It showed that CCA wire overheats to much an doesn’t let enough current pass through causing the amps to push an force more power from them draining your charging system faster an overheating an protecting the amps before they can even reach their rated power. I started having issues with my amp protecting for no reason when I couldn’t even turn it up half way, I searched an checked my system an everything was fine, so I changed my CCA wiring to OFC an that fixed the issue! I was so happy an would never use CCA wiring again!
@Sxmtexx Also if money is tight you can measure just how much power wiring an ground you need an order the length from skyhighaudio an use that for your power an ground. Only problem is they’ll be the same color.
@Sxmtexx yeah that would be the issue, OFC wiring is the way to go. Almost have the same setup. I had the cxa1200.1 with 2-12 L7Ts, but I went an got a single 12-L7Q with the loaded enclosure from kicker an couldn’t be happier now that everything is working fine now.
@Sxmtexx yeah it’s just the classic L7 still kick nice though!
I need someone like u in my life rn
I have the same amp on a skar ddx 15 d4. It hits hard lol my gain little less than half. No bass boost. Low pass around 75 or 80 Hertz. Tuned with O scope. Also running 4 gauge kicker ofc wiring.
I am having the same issue with my cxa1200.1. I have 4 sundown sa8 subs wired to 1ohm. 4g ofc wiring grounded to the body. Grinded to bare metal. Was doing great for the first couple weeks. Then it started to reset the whole system radio highs amp. When I turned the bass up. I upgraded the alt to a 170 replaced the battery with a yellow top.
Thank you so much for this I thought my amp was fried man!
Your welcome! Glad to help out!
Most big amps and when running multiple quality amps require an upgraded high amp alternator. Most factory alternators are like between 85 and 130. When strapping a big amp it can draw close to 200.
I dont mean to be off topic but does any of you know of a trick to get back into an instagram account?
I was dumb forgot the password. I appreciate any assistance you can give me!
@Archer Dash instablaster ;)
@Angel Lee i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and im trying it out atm.
Seems to take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Angel Lee it did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thank you so much you saved my ass !
@Archer Dash You are welcome =)
I've been running a smart 3 and then an hd3000 taramps with two batteries,, big 3 and 0g cca wire. For over 3 years my shit banged hard. Recently my bass started to lack and causing my amp to clip at lower volume. Long story short I checked everthing and changed my wires to OFC. That didn't fix my problem, FML. Batteries are good and so is my alternator. ground is solid af and still. LOL at this point I'm going to consider buying another car
Good job man you have mastered the basshead world lol 🤣
When turning on my 04 corolla immediately my head unit/amp goes into “protection” mode. I have it connected to a cheap $60 Walmart battery. The amp is 1000w but it’s very cheap so I doubt it’s true. Do you always need a hefty battery when installing any amp??
Which alternator do you recommend for a kicker 1800.1 amplifier and a 500-watt rms mid-amplifier and a 400-watt rms mid-amplifier?
You good as long as you have a battery in back
I was doing okay with 100 and 140 amp alternators on my 71 Chevelle with dual 4 gauge wiring and big 3 upgrade. But now I have a 240 amp JS Alternator and 2 runs of 0 gauge wiring and big 4 upgrade to the alternator and grounds. I have the cxa1800.1t on a JL Audio 12w7
I have the same problem just ordered a d3400 I hope it works 💪
thanks fro this post. went from a kicker 800.1 to the kicker 1200.1 and was getting the protect mode at high volumes, triple checked voltage and it was set at 34.5 due to running 1ohm load, triple checked speaker connections, even had my brother swap out his box which had which had two skar audio svr's D4's also at 1om load and amp still had issues. Changed out all wiring to true OFC and issues are gone. Lets me know now why installer was the cheapest in town.LOL, This amp is a beast with the proper wiring
I have an hifonics 800watt amp and every time I connect my jacks to amp it goes into protection mode but wen my speaker wires are hooked up the amp doesn’t go into protection mode?
Had mine for 4 years with 1 kicker l7 12. I replaced the block up front. Now when bass hits the amp powers off. Have 0 gage power wire and ground. Put new battery in as I tought that was it. But that made it worse.
I got the same amp kicker cxa1200.1 on a fosgate t1 12 single 12 subwoofer. Big 4 with 0 gauge all ofc wires, yellow top optima under the hood and xs power d925 battery in the trunk. Volt stays at 13 voltage at max volume. Slapping hard.😂
9 times out 10 nun of that was the real issue...it was a bad ground wire seen it happen 100 times ....but all the upgrades he did I still recommend
I have a kicker cxa 400.1 with 2 10 inch single voic coil and everytime i put the volume at 45 on my pioneer headunit the protect mode starts flashing. I will be changing my power and ground
I hav the same thing 4k powerbass amp my wire is ofc o gauge but I hav a fuse of 150 think I should beef it up to 200 fuse
Please can you give me the list of the stuff i have to upgrade? I have the same problem
Should I get a cap ? I have the same amp. My wiring is good though
Hey brother, I have a 07 Tahoe and Friday I’m buying 2 L7S 12” and I can either get the CXA1200.1 or 1800.1, my alternator is 160 Amps stock. I’m getting Oxygen Free Cables. You think I would have to get a 2nd battery? And do you think I would be better off with the 1200 watt amp so I won’t have to do much to upgrade my electrical?
Nathaniel Sumner what up man are you getting them at dual 4? If so you can get the 1200.1 that would be fine. Either way both would work. But I’ve seen people use
The 1200.1 with just 2 it would definitely push those subs. As far as second battery. I honestly don’t think you need one since you have a pretty good size alternator. If you have a little extra money buy an XS POWER BATTERY and install it under the hood as a starter battery. I actually just have one battery which is my starter battery but whatever my alternator couldn’t make up for the battery does. Either way both amps would work but you don’t wanna get something too too powerful that will over power subs. Look into those battery’s my guy. I’m going to upload a video pretty soon of my new box. I was working with three boxes before. The box I got now is crazy loud. as far as playing your car while it’s off I wouldn’t recommend doing it unless you have that XS power battery trust me man I bought an extra battery for my car thinking that I need it to a couple guys even told me to get an extra battery in the back all I did was buy One problem was solved just make sure you update all your wires and you get zero gauge from the battery to the subs
I may go with the Alpine M1200 AMP. That kicker CXA1200.1 pulls up to 108 AMPs! The 1800.1 pulls up to 168 AMPS! A normal 1200 Watt amp should pull about 58 Amps and that’s at MAX power.
Nathaniel Sumner yea I learned the hard way. I was struggling to get the damn thing going for about a month. Come to find out it was too damn power hungry
I have 2 l7 dvc 2ohm 12’s, ported box, cxa1800.1, big 3, 0ga ofc ran throughout, factory 170amp alt. I can turn it up pretty loud but when I go to show someone what the system is capable of (especially with a song with constant bass) it switches to protect mode. Do you suggest the battery or alt upgrade or both?
@@jkaraska if you say you got good power wire it shouldn't be your wire check your ground make sure grounded to bare metal and check your fuse make sure you got the right fuse for you amplifiers and your fuse can't be cheap either and if it's not that your clipping your amp set your gain with a smd dd-1 and you can always add an extra battery it helps with your voltage more power the more happier your amp will be. www.amazon.com/Meade-Designs-SMD-DD-1-Distortion/dp/B00802PJ7O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540182241&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=smd+dd1 Good luck basshead.
This says, "Sky High car audio," about 500 times in the video and there are morons asking what brand of wire he used.
I just got this amp and it runs hot asf!!!
I just hooked up my cxa1200.1 yesterday on my 04 Honda Civic all I did was a big 3 upgrade and I got the kicker OFC 4G amp kit it was working fine for a few hours but now when hard bass hits hard it will shut up was that the same problem you had?
PacoGP17 that’s exactly the same problem I had. You need more power watch my other video on how I fixed it. You either need a bigger alternator or you can buy a xs power battery like I did. That amp is very power hungry. It pulls up up to 108 amps of current. You definitely need to upgrade the electrical system especially if you’re alternator is 100 A or less
You really don’t need the cap. Try taking it out.
Don't do this.
How would this amp pair to a new version of the dual kicker comp r 12s at 2 ohm with a red top agm, 1/0 awg welding cable upgrade replacing not just added to, all factory power and grounds? I can run 1200w to a single 15 and voltage drops to maybe 13v on stock 105 amp alt.
I need to pull 1k watts rms at 2.2 ohms btw
Do I have to upgrade the battery that sounds ridiculous all for 1 15
Well the upgrade is not necessarily for the 15 inch it was for the kicker amplifier that I have. The amplifier pulls up to 108 A and I didn’t have enough power that’s why my amp kept shutting down whenever the bass would hit. All you have to do is replace the battery to a high output battery like the one in my video. I still have everything else stock all I did was upgrade my wires because I wanted better performance but you don’t have to do that. I was using cheaper wire before and when I changed it out to OFC wire it made everything else more powerful my door speakers went much higher and more clear because of the power.
what gauge wire for the sub did you use?
What do u have your amp tuned to I have the cxa 1200.1 hooked to a L7 model 41L7122 model sub and it slaps still working on the tunning havent had much time to work on it
Julio Calderon I have my gain set to around 9. X over freq is about 150 bass boost at 12 using the knob.
Your amp don't go into to protection mode
Do you think this amp would be ok on my Dodge Charger at 2ohms without trying to pull off too much power? Alternator is 180 stock
I believe
marcus Hey what’s up buddy. This amplifier pulls a lot of current. It’s definitely recommend it to do an upgrade on your electrical system only way to find out is to try it and if it turns off or goes into protect mode then it’s because there is not enough power. You might want look into doing the big three if you haven’t done so or get a bigger battery.
Hey great video!! I was wondering wuath kind of amp do you recomend me if I have 4 kicker L7s 8" 4 homs, the 1200.1cx or 1800.1 cx??
tony stark Thanks bro! As for your question. Those are amps are both pretty powerful. You can probably do the 1200.1 and still have a little power left over. If you want to push your subs to the max then 1800.1 just remember to set the gains correctly or you can blow the subs.
Tengo el mismo problema con ese amplificador, veo que lo resolviste cambiando los cables y agregando una batería de mayor capacidad, es correcto?
Si exactamente. Le puse la batería y nunca me ha fallado jamás.
Just a question: were you able to put the gain more than half up? Cause my amp is like 1/3 of the gain, & still goes into protection. I can turn down the volume and it’s loud again, but I feel that it should be louder. If you’re able to run your amp more than half the gain, then I should upgrade my electrical system.
daniel ramirez no actually I had it set more than half way to maybe about 7-8 and it went into protection mode. U definitely need to upgrade your electrical system for this amp. All u have to do is upgrade your battery and do the big 3. I have an XS power battery and my subs still going hard.
Minds is a kicker 4×1 everytime i rurn my sub up the amp go inyo protected Moon why
I'm having the same issue but mines a 3400 crunch amp with 2 kickers 12in comps I might try that out see what happens
I know this video is old but I just brought skar audio 12 dual and they are 2,400 watts and an 2,800 watts amp and my amp goes to protection mode when turning my bass up and I running 4 gauge wire do you think I should get the same wire and gauge that you have
I fixed mine by upgrading the electrical system. I purchased that xs power battery and swapped all the wiring. I also did the big three upgrade. But to be honest I think it all came from the XS power battery. The system is still going strong today. Well what something I will tell you after I upgraded all the wire to 100% copper I noticed a big difference in sound quality. My door speakers definitely got louder.
So u think I should hook another battery my staring battery is new and it one of those big battery
Muy buen video me gustaría escuchar 👌 como funciona
Si tengo un video con música para que vea cómo suena
Hey bro I have a 2006 Chevy Silverado single cab I woke up this morning my kicker kx 1200.1 was in protection mode my woofer were making a thumbing sound so I disconnected woofers but am still clipping I replaced all new wires with stinger still clipping every time I put remote wire it clips I put my old amp and it works wat you think mabe a bad kicker amp and so I have too run a 0 gauge wire to back farad and from farad to amp with 4 gauge any advice would be greatly appreciated gracias
Hey what’s up brother. Sorry for the late response. How long has it been doing that? Usually when it does it’s because there’s not enough power to power the amplifier so it’ll go into protection mode. I ended up corrected the issue with a more powerful battery upfront. As well as replacing all the wiring. But these amplifiers are very very power-hungry so if you do not have enough power it will go into protection mode. One thing you can do is get a multimeter and measure your battery voltage buy the vehicle van and then try turning the amplifier on and see what it drops to because most likely it’s going to drop down voltage.
Ok thnk you bro I will check Dat so if I put ca farad do you think that would help my battery already 850 cold cranking amps I only got 2 10inch kicker rt nothing big and this amp but gud looking out about a week already I noticed something went my phone started to pause with music then in a couple of seconds would turn back on then after like I said it started making a thumbing sound so it was clipping I'll try it again I'll get a volt Metter what Amps should volt Metter read
@@tatuado5875 first thing you wanna do is double check your ground make sure that there’s nothing that is hitting it. Secondly you want to test your voltage on your multimeter. using the multimeter you want to put it on the power and ground on the amplifier. Typically it should read about 11.5 to 14.5 V connect the probes to the amp and turn up the volume. What you want to do is re-create the issue that you’re having so as the multimeter is connected raise the volume up and if you see that the voltage drops then it’s most likely related to a power issue. Also you want to check the ohms on your amplifier make sure that you have it wired to the correct ohm impedence. And again you can use your multimeter check that as well
Hey. Good job on the setup. I remember asking you couple months ago about the issue. I havent change my wiring yet. I have it set up just enough so that it dont hit protection mode. Im going to try to first upgrade to ofc wire. I dont really mess around with caps so therefore I cant really put in the 0 gauge. But if I have to you bet I will install one in. As for the battery and big 3 and the cap, was your lights dimming or are they now?
Also forgot to say I upgraded my headlights to LED and its harder to notice any headlight dim. I do notice it on my digital dashboard when the bass hits. Therefore I def need to do something soon or take the system completely out until I get my wiring and all the prep work done.
I actually have HIDs in my vehicle so I never noticed any dimming not even on the dashboard the only light that I noticed would dim but like very very little was the domelight and after I replaced my battery to the XS power battery That was gone but I never have experienced any dimming issues on headlights
Nice job though on the set up.
Thanks bro!
Ralphy Rozay I’m having the same problem I added another battery it’s only a 500w so maybe if i get a stronger battery it should solve the problem
Could this amp push a sundown 12 v2 xd
What brand of ofc wire you bought?
1243arturo sky high ocf wire 0 gauge
So how many ohms was it wired to when it was cutting out and how many ohm's is a wire to now... I had the same problem when I wired it to one of them but I fixed it by running dual inputs
Jj Hill I had it down to 2 ohms. My problem was that I just didn’t have enough power to supply the amplifier. This amp pulls lots of current. Up to 106 amps
Did you upgrade the battery or alternator?
Hang Daddy 410 I did upgrade my battery to a yellow top had it right next to the amp in the back seat
Jj Hill I’m running off stock oem 2018 altima battery. My amp is kicker dx 500, you think if I get a better battery will fix it?
ur sub is wired in 2 ohm right?
Thinking about getting this amp I have 1 10" EM audio 1000 dual 2 watt rms sub would this amp be good
Brian Everitt honestly it might be a little too strong for the subwoofer these amps are powerful.
@Ralphy Rozay my amp goes on protect mode can the is issue be that my subs were wired back positive to ground and ground to positive
Hey what brand of wire did you use am having the same problem
Gavino Flores skyhigh OFC wire
😄😢
Man I have the same amp and the same problem but I already did a xs power 0 ga ofc big3 and have the kicker 4ga ofc wire kit and a brand new optima yella top what am I missing I’m running 2 dd612s
Andrew Denmark what ohms are the subs? Your ohms are off that amp is a beast. It never cuts out unles something is wrong
what does it do when it goes into protect mode? when i turn mine up i cant hear the voices just the bass.
When the bass hits the base turns off and the voices is the only thing you can hear I have fixed it already though check out the other video on how to fix it
@@rozay318 mine is the opposite when i turn it up all you can hear is base no highs
Same here! When I turn mine up, my voices go out but I can hear bass. Did you ever find the fix to this?
@@jaib.9975 nah man I wish I did.
Hey i recently got rockville Ofc wires. Noticed it has 120amps fuse. What fuse size are you using? My cheap wiring had 150anl fuse. Now 120 anl gold... fuse box is also slighty smaller. Once again i appreciate the help.
Glenn Ortega I am using a Xscorpion 250A fuse.
Once I get everything hooked Hopefully the 120 wont cause the protect mode. If so ill up it to 250 along with the big 3.
Glenn Ortega if it goes into protect still you don’t have enough current to power that amp most likely. That amp is a pain in the ass. It’s very power hungry. But if it does work you Will probably wanna upgrade the fuse either way otherwise you’ll be blowing them. Better to add more power than to add less.
@@rozay318 I recommend going with 100 amp fuse asap because they won't pop till 150 A anyway. If you have a short that 250 amp fuse will never pop trust me. Your car will burn down before that fuse pops
Is your sub wired to 2 ohm or 4 ohm??? I would really appreciate if you respond. Thanks man
Rolando Mota whats up bro. I have wired down to 2 ohms to get maximum bass. Slams hard AF.
I have the same problem right now bass hit go to protection mode
What do you have the amp dialed at?
Guillermo Ocegueda my gain was set at around 7-8 I believe
@@rozay318 what about the bass boost
Guillermo Ocegueda I have it around 11-12 but I control it up front through the knob
@@rozay318 thank you bro
Guillermo Ocegueda No problem bro let me know if you need any other assistance
Dont matter the rms. L7 moves way more air and in my opinion only bettet than L7 is the QL7.
Jeremiah hodge I don’t know about that. This Q class definitely hits harder than the L712. Had them both hooked up the same way L7 blew on me.
@@rozay318 well aint that a bitch. Did u buy sub new n not break in. Plus if u was gettin red light while L7 was hooked up. That means L7 was gettin a big fluctuation down amd up on the wattage and that could do it to. Plus i dont like the L7s before q class. I like the hard black with grey tear drops like 2007 eddition. All otherseries of L7s i end up with the polk where its bottoming out. I have 4 L7s on just a Phoenix Gold Titanium 1200.1 anniversary eddition. And kicket was recomending the 2400.1 kx or zx.
If i could send a pic on here i show u wich L7s that hav never given me a problem. But i know q class is supose to b best. But i hav been tryin all dif subs i on alpines new type r now. Ya they get down for round sub but i like to ride and bang for hours at a time in da car with 4 12 L7s. N only round sub within a decent price range is orion hcca and massive audio hippo or the summo. The 3 12s i have them in a jeep liberty and its a bitch its like a giant box itself im used to always havin trunks.
Jeremiah hodge well if he only had 1 L7 12 original, those are only rated at 750rms and this amp pushes 1200+watts at 2-1ohm. Which probably why it blew on him.
Have same issue thanxk
My amp gets really Hot and smell like it’s burning
Is it easy to do the big 3 or did you get helped?
Gerardo Gomez It’s actually quite easy there’s a few videos on TH-cam that explain how to do it he just have to have the right equipment to do it I found mine the easiest at sonic electronics TH-cam channel just type in sonic electronics big three
@@rozay318 thanks man.
It's happened to me the ground wire was not in a right place
Take that cap out
Whats better the kicker 06 zx1500
Or the
Kicker cxa 1800
Am Debating on which one to get.
On subs i have 2 15s cvx on ported box
rhurtadorh32 they are both really good amps. The cxa1800.1 is good. The zx is an older amp but does have a lot of power. It’s really up to you. Look up some videos on both of them. They both capable of pushing those 15s you have
Kicker 1200.1 sucks big time!!
Thank you guys how I can get Power from where
noha saffah You can purchase your very own XS power batter from different websites. I recommend you get yours from down for sound shop.com you can even look up the Instagram down for sound. JP Is the owner he’s pretty cool about all the items he sells and he’s legit check it out
EricTheBoringOne I appreciate the input. I don’t know if u watched the video or listened to what I said but I did do the big 3. I’ll attach this link so you can watch just in case you don’t know what it is.
th-cam.com/video/gnmXKjm3tZE/w-d-xo.html
Your negative speaker wire is in the WRONG term hope u dont fry ur amp buddy.
River Wright I appreciate the input but you’re wrong buddy. Google the Kicker CXA 1200.1 terminals. The thick black wire you see is in the ground the blue thick wire is for the 12 V. The red speaker wire you see is for the positive and the black one is in the negative. there are two positives and two negatives for the speaker wire. Amp still going strong by the way and it’s been almost 2 years 💪🏼
Y a mi que
My amp doing same shit
Check out my other videos I have the repair with the XS power battery
Skar amp soon as I turn on radio/amp it goes in and out protect nonstop
Check my channel for video
I only have power cable, ground cable, and remote wire connected nothing else.
Remote wire is getting 11.5-12 volts tested with multimeter
Power and ground getting 14ish volts in the amp tested with multimeter
No demo. Wtf.
Yea there is check out other video