We have a newer fuel treatment video out that shows it is basically a different chemical in any treatment that works well. You can see it at th-cam.com/video/UvXB8OXac9o/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for these amazing insights. Really great experiment. When you started the engine with all the glass flying all over the place was pretty funny. Hope it didn't make too much of a mess 🤣
Notice there's more green liquid at the bottom of the HEET jar, that's because HEET mixes with the water which allows the water to burn off when mixed with the methanol (HEET). It basically adds methanol to the water to make it combustible.
It works well in a car environment but never really removes or keeps the fuel good has to constantly be moving which will not work in a carbureted environment
I mean I don't know how much water you would have in your tank but you probably need at least 50/50 methanol and water to burn so if you have 16 oz of water it may be fine but I think you'd be better off adding a couple of gallons of e85 so then you have a like 80% ethanol 20% water or so maybe 90/10
Lol! We have a newer fuel treatment video out that shows it is basically a different chemical in any of these treatments that works well. You can see it at th-cam.com/video/UvXB8OXac9o/w-d-xo.html
Excellent analysis! Thank you for spending the time. On Engine start, reminded me of the little football game I had as a kid... vibrating the players all over😅
I’ve converted one of my chainsaws to run on E 85 ethanol fuel about two years ago, this video is very helpful! Using the phase or 3000 will definitely help with the water ethanol separation issue.
It helps the equipment we use even in no ethanol situations. Moisture control is a big issue with all fuels. Definitely helps prevent seperation. Thanks for watching!
@@IndRepair so you haven’t use the phaser 3000 in ethanol gas because that’s what I’m after up here in Canada being we can’t get anything but ethanol. Thank you
I don’t run any thing but Premium non- ethanol fuel, so I don’t run into these problems, but Inhave found some mix fuels do go bad. I have found nothing that will make gas as good as the fuel I used thirty years ago. Then, I never really worried about it. I just mixed my two cycle oil in 2.5 gallons of regular 92 octane to the tank. I would use the gas until it was gone. I never ran my two cycle engines dry and stored them that way as I do today. I put them up when I was through with them and threw them on a shelf in the shop. When I needed them, I topped off their gas and bar oil tanks and put them to work. The only thing I put stabilizers in was my gas tanks on the boat. I never had a problem with gas going bad from season to season in my saws or boat. Now, even premium non ethanol won’t last six months withou a good stabilizer in the gas. Ethanol gas about half that period of time. I had a couple of saws, last year, that their PNE gas went bad in 7 months.
We use a non ethanol 91 octane and treat it with the phaser 3000 to keep moisture from becoming a problem. This is from a dedicated ethanol free pump. I do see customers come in after using a "no ethanol" fuel from a multi use pump with ethanol still in the first portion pumped. Gas is definitely not what it used to be. Can fuel is prone to the same moisture gathering if opened or sitting for too long. I see it happen several times a year, especially when fuel is sitting in equipment. Thanks for watching!
Definitely! We have a fuel test coming up soon vs a couple other products people have recommended. Will be out later today or tomorrow. Thanks for watching!
Great video! Unfortunately, as some have commented, one can't know the composition of the bottom layer. Adding ethanol or methanol, etc. increases the the amount of water gasoline can "hold" at saturation. Gasoline (e.g. E-10) that's 100% saturated with water will phase separate once the temperature is low enough. Alcohols up to about 4 carbons long are soluble in water because the alcohol group (OH) is attracted to water and can form hydrogen bonds with water. As alcohol chains get longer with more carbon atoms (e.g. methanol, ethanol, propanol, butanol), the other end of the chain is hydrophobic (water fearing). Long-chain alcohols won't dissolve in water. Methanol is the smallest alcohol with only one carbon --that's why it's the active ingredient in "Heat". Methanol can "soak up" water in gasoline and make it burn. The same is true for ethanol, propanol, and butanol. If you remove the "ol" from these words, you get the names of the combustible gases the alcohols are made from: methane, ethane, propane, butane. The main ingredient in Phaser 3000 is 2-Butoxyethanol. It's like an ethanol with a butanol stuck to it. In the video, Phaser 3000 broke up the separated layers. This is because it also acts as a surfactant --A surfactant is a compound that reduces surface tension between two phases, such as two liquids. Yes, I'm a science geek! LOL
I would love to hear what your think the best thing out there in a small engine situation to reverse phase separation. You are way smarter than me I can tell you that! Used to know a little about this stuff but it has been a long time
HEET (methanol) and ISOHEET (mostly isopropyl alcohol) are probably the most economical way to get water back into solution so it can "burn off" in the engine. As you saw in the jars, there are still two visible phases with these fuel treatments, but as fuel sloshes around in the tank, the bottom layer gets picked up by the fuel intake and eventually burns off with the gasoline. The Phaser 3000 (and some other products) contain a combustible surfactant that helps the layers mix. For winterizing small engines, especially in colder climates, the easiest method is probably running through a batch of synthetic (ethanol free) fuel like TruFuel or VP Racing, etc. Otherwise, I run my equipment dry and drain the carburetor bowl. The biggest problem is with small engines where you can't seal the gas tank vent --it lets moisture in. Keeping the tank full can help because there's less contact with moisture in the air. www.youtube.com/@TarylFixesAll Taryl Fixes All has a series of videos where he tests about a dozen fuel additives in engines left outside for months. You can see which products prevent "jelly" and corrosion in the carburetors.
Thanks for your input! I would agree with agitation (as would be in any car/truck fuel system) that most of these would probably work. Problem is many of them are marketed to small engine customers as a save all and they don't really do much for a situation like that. I agree, we tell people leave it all the way filled up with ethanol free or drain completely. I like to leave them filled more than draining because it keeps the gaskets to prevent cracking/drying out
I believe a really helpful test would be to fill the 5 jars with new E10 fuel. Then add the prescribed amount of the additives in the jars and come back every month and check how well they are preventing the fuel from phase separating. Once the fuel is contaminated and phase separation has occured, it is clear the train has left the station.
That is a good test to see of if products stabilize the fuel! I can tell you from experience and what I see that these products do not work in a small engine application. In a car with constant flow these things may work to perform a task but do nothing to reverse phase separation or rwmove gunk. Reversing the phase separation or removing ethanol gum/varnish to fix a problem machine is what all these products want you to believe they do
I have 30 gallons of very old and stale gas. I'm going to try putting some in old one gallon milk jugs and putting them in the freezer. This should freeze the water allowing me to pour off the gas . Then I'll try a 50/50 mix with good fuel and see what happens. What do you think? The old gas by the way is eight years old. I may need to change my ratio or try adding an octane booster or methanol. I might also try aniline oil, this is and old octane booster from the past. Any thoughts?
That sure is old fuel, the octane as you said is likely pretty low. A freezer could introduce moisture but if already saturated it likely won't matter. Interesting though on how to do this!
I have used Trufuel to get rid of 10 gallons of 4 year old stored gasoline. 5 gallon can, pour in one gallon old fuel and 4 cans of new Trufuel, then add it to the car (just before fill up). Took a while, but did get rid of it without taking it to hazardous waste disposal. Maybe a less dilute mixture would have worked, but this is what I did. The stored gasoline did have Sta-bil in it, but that only lasts so long. The 92 octane of the Trufuel helped as well (I think). Expensive, but 6 months later and it seems to have caused no issues to my vehicle.
The yellow bottle has Methanol in it and the red has isopropanol in it. They are bolth to remove water and prevent gas line freeze up but work in different ways. Thanks for watching!
@@IndRepair they’re also much more concentrated and “dry” compared to say 70 or even 91% isopropyl alcohol bought from Wally World or a drug store. If you look at the SDS the other ingredients are in the thousandths of a percent. And of course anhydrous is critical because you can’t be trying to dry fuel with something that has water already in it. For the price heet is the purest, driest alcohol solvent that is readily available. I really have no idea as to the amount of water already in seafoam or those other products. It’s interesting that the seafoam sds describes it as insoluble in water when it has a decent isopropanol component. Having water content in the alcohol used to make seafoam would enhance its carbon cleaning abilities though, like how they compare its cleaning abilities to water sucked in though the vacuum line 😂
I have put Primrose Phaser to work to rescue phase separated gasoline at a ratio of 1% by volume, which works very well to rescue approximately 95% of issue, while also cleaning up gum and varnish issues, which are usually created during phase separation. How ever if one has high parts per million of condensation in ones gasoline as we witnessed here, it is beneficial for one to have more real estate to park the excess condensation, or additional gasoline from a different source, to be added to this phased out gasoline & Phaser 3000. My opinion is that you had plenty of Primrose Phaser 3000 Martin for parking this out of spec gasoline. However if there where more places to except this phased out issue, usually 10% more gasoline needs to be add. Example there is 32 oz of phased out gasoline × 1% = point .32 oz. of Primrose Phaser 3000, if the gasoline did not clear add 10 % or 3.2 oz of additional gasoline. 99% of the time Phaser has one back in business. In the case of ones lawn mower with one quart of phased out gasoline, Primrose can have one up and running for a maximum of 1.99 cents = 1% rescue cost, and for .09 tenths of a cents in this lawn mower with 1 quart of gasoline Primrose Phaser 3000 has the ability to inhibit this quagmire all together for a minimum of 2 year if Phaser 3000 is put to work at the conception of purchasing the gasoline. I must mention one thing I felt was interesting is the engine when stated Martin, there was no smoking from this gasoline you rescued with the Phaser 3000.
It definitely works. I don't use it in equipment for rescue purposes but we do treat everything that leaves the shop with it and ethanol free fuel. Never do they come back with a fuel issue! Thanks for watching and for your further input on field application!
Commercials show little in the way of truths in most instances I see but an independent test would get good may do one here vs a couple others people have mentioned over the last year or so
I don't know what Seafoam does to gas, but I DO know that it keeps my gas (regular 87octane pump gas) working and cleans the carb as it works and is an excellent fuel stabilizer which is all I ever used. For the past 30+ years since I started using Seafoam, I have never had to tear down any of my carburetors to clean them or get rid of old fuel. My motors start right up after long term storage. I don't get the idea of all that water in the gas? I've NEVER had that problem with any of my gas tanks.
Simply reason for this test is because ethanol gathers moisture from the air and it condenses in the tank. It is the most common issue with no start fuel issues any area where there is mid to high humidity. I have heard of people with the same results as you on Seafoam but it is definitely not the norm. Some of these things work for certain instances but not good all the way around. Sea foam claims to work by making fuel resist evaporation so this may help with stabalization. If the fuel gathers moisture it will not take care of the issue. What area of the county do you live in?
How flammable is that water layer though? Alcohol being miscible with water would at some point make that blue later consist of enough alcohol whether methanol or whatever to burn
Could be possible but I would say it's not likely? The color of that layer never really changes with any of the additives even though it gets mixed into a solution and drops back out multiple times
Nice video but... you used the same dropper to mix all the bottles. In essence you cross contaminated all the samples by mixing different formulas. There's no telling what may or may not have happened.
Lol 😂 I appreciate this video, even with the minuscule possibility of cross contamination. Thanks for taking the time to do this experiment….. it’s saving me money and helping my vehicles performance.
With a system that uses a fuel pump and the fuel is always moving most of these make a solution of the gas/ethanol/water at least momentarily (which if continually moving moisture may stay in the solution) but in a carbureted system it will never stay mixed since it is not moving constantly. Thanks for watching!
Acetone is highly corrosive and it will dissolve your seals and possibly any plastic lines or parts like most fuel injectors. However, isopropyl alcohol is very similar to acetone but far less corrosive which is why many products use isopropanol.
It works in certain situations but if the water is mixed with ethanol blended fuel it flows right through. Best to use after pulling only the top 80% or so out of a container after letting it settle. Using this method it eliminates the need for this funnel at all. Thanks for watching!
I don't think you are getting a very good measurement with that dropper on increments under 1 ml. Also small batches like this probably don't have any reaction as a large multi gallon batch would.
If it separates out like this its never going to be combustible enough to run in a small engine even if it were to be flammable at some really high dosage
We have a newer fuel treatment video out that shows it is basically a different chemical in any treatment that works well. You can see it at th-cam.com/video/UvXB8OXac9o/w-d-xo.html
Finally some no bull real answer. Cheers
Thank you! Take care!
Excellent !! Very well done, in my humble opinion. Thank you. We have a Sears Tractor that runs rough. Now I know why. Easy fix.
I appreciate that! Thanks for watching!
Thank you for these amazing insights. Really great experiment. When you started the engine with all the glass flying all over the place was pretty funny. Hope it didn't make too much of a mess
🤣
Haha no mess very surprisingly but it was a mad dash to get everything off the table!! Thanks for watching!
Notice there's more green liquid at the bottom of the HEET jar, that's because HEET mixes with the water which allows the water to burn off when mixed with the methanol (HEET). It basically adds methanol to the water to make it combustible.
It works well in a car environment but never really removes or keeps the fuel good has to constantly be moving which will not work in a carbureted environment
Most engines say in their manuals to never use methanol.
@@human1513also says don’t put water in your gas
I mean I don't know how much water you would have in your tank but you probably need at least 50/50 methanol and water to burn so if you have 16 oz of water it may be fine but I think you'd be better off adding a couple of gallons of e85 so then you have a like 80% ethanol 20% water or so maybe 90/10
Got a pretty good chuckle on the dancing additives. Great test will use Phaser or will get gas. Thanks for video.
Lol! We have a newer fuel treatment video out that shows it is basically a different chemical in any of these treatments that works well. You can see it at th-cam.com/video/UvXB8OXac9o/w-d-xo.html
Excellent analysis! Thank you for spending the time. On Engine start, reminded me of the little football game I had as a kid... vibrating the players all over😅
Haha it was a treat!! Thanks for watching!
I’ve converted one of my chainsaws to run on E 85 ethanol fuel about two years ago, this video is very helpful! Using the phase or 3000 will definitely help with the water ethanol separation issue.
It helps the equipment we use even in no ethanol situations. Moisture control is a big issue with all fuels. Definitely helps prevent seperation. Thanks for watching!
@@IndRepair so you haven’t use the phaser 3000 in ethanol gas because that’s what I’m after up here in Canada being we can’t get anything but ethanol. Thank you
It works in ethanol blended fuel we just use ethanol free for all repairs. It is great stuff!!
I would love to see a follow up video with Sentry additive as it is king for water and old fuel issues here on the coastlines of Florida.
May just do that! Thanks for the recommendation and for watching!
Thanks for sharing / educating; happy holidays & God Bless
Thanks for watching! May god bless you also!
I don’t run any thing but Premium non- ethanol fuel, so I don’t run into these problems, but Inhave found some mix fuels do go bad. I have found nothing that will make gas as good as the fuel I used thirty years ago. Then, I never really worried about it. I just mixed my two cycle oil in 2.5 gallons of regular 92 octane to the tank. I would use the gas until it was gone. I never ran my two cycle engines dry and stored them that way as I do today. I put them up when I was through with them and threw them on a shelf in the shop. When I needed them, I topped off their gas and bar oil tanks and put them to work. The only thing I put stabilizers in was my gas tanks on the boat. I never had a problem with gas going bad from season to season in my saws or boat. Now, even premium non ethanol won’t last six months withou a good stabilizer in the gas. Ethanol gas about half that period of time. I had a couple of saws, last year, that their PNE gas went bad in 7 months.
We use a non ethanol 91 octane and treat it with the phaser 3000 to keep moisture from becoming a problem. This is from a dedicated ethanol free pump. I do see customers come in after using a "no ethanol" fuel from a multi use pump with ethanol still in the first portion pumped. Gas is definitely not what it used to be. Can fuel is prone to the same moisture gathering if opened or sitting for too long. I see it happen several times a year, especially when fuel is sitting in equipment. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for all the information ill try phaser and when I can ill have my tank drained
Definitely! We have a fuel test coming up soon vs a couple other products people have recommended. Will be out later today or tomorrow. Thanks for watching!
Dude I laughed my ass of when he started the engine, and he forgot to move the bottles.
Haha me too!!
Great video! Unfortunately, as some have commented, one can't know the composition of the bottom layer. Adding ethanol or methanol, etc. increases the the amount of water gasoline can "hold" at saturation. Gasoline (e.g. E-10) that's 100% saturated with water will phase separate once the temperature is low enough. Alcohols up to about 4 carbons long are soluble in water because the alcohol group (OH) is attracted to water and can form hydrogen bonds with water.
As alcohol chains get longer with more carbon atoms (e.g. methanol, ethanol, propanol, butanol), the other end of the chain is hydrophobic (water fearing). Long-chain alcohols won't dissolve in water. Methanol is the smallest alcohol with only one carbon --that's why it's the active ingredient in "Heat". Methanol can "soak up" water in gasoline and make it burn. The same is true for ethanol, propanol, and butanol. If you remove the "ol" from these words, you get the names of the combustible gases the alcohols are made from: methane, ethane, propane, butane.
The main ingredient in Phaser 3000 is 2-Butoxyethanol. It's like an ethanol with a butanol stuck to it. In the video, Phaser 3000 broke up the separated layers. This is because it also acts as a surfactant --A surfactant is a compound that reduces surface tension between two phases, such as two liquids.
Yes, I'm a science geek! LOL
I would love to hear what your think the best thing out there in a small engine situation to reverse phase separation. You are way smarter than me I can tell you that! Used to know a little about this stuff but it has been a long time
HEET (methanol) and ISOHEET (mostly isopropyl alcohol) are probably the most economical way to get water back into solution so it can "burn off" in the engine. As you saw in the jars, there are still two visible phases with these fuel treatments, but as fuel sloshes around in the tank, the bottom layer gets picked up by the fuel intake and eventually burns off with the gasoline. The Phaser 3000 (and some other products) contain a combustible surfactant that helps the layers mix.
For winterizing small engines, especially in colder climates, the easiest method is probably running through a batch of synthetic (ethanol free) fuel like TruFuel or VP Racing, etc. Otherwise, I run my equipment dry and drain the carburetor bowl.
The biggest problem is with small engines where you can't seal the gas tank vent --it lets moisture in. Keeping the tank full can help because there's less contact with moisture in the air.
www.youtube.com/@TarylFixesAll
Taryl Fixes All has a series of videos where he tests about a dozen fuel additives in engines left outside for months. You can see which products prevent "jelly" and corrosion in the carburetors.
Thanks for your input! I would agree with agitation (as would be in any car/truck fuel system) that most of these would probably work. Problem is many of them are marketed to small engine customers as a save all and they don't really do much for a situation like that. I agree, we tell people leave it all the way filled up with ethanol free or drain completely. I like to leave them filled more than draining because it keeps the gaskets to prevent cracking/drying out
what an armature
Lol
Well done!
Thanks for watching!
I used methyl hydrate in boat gas. I wonder if that was of any benifit.Seemed to help.CHEERS from HERE!
Good info! Thanks for watching!
Soo how many times should you use to remove water out tank? Lik heet
In a snowblower, without the fuel constantly moving it will not help with the removal of water unless you are using the Phaser 3000 (2-Butoxyethanol)
@@IndRepairi used heet on my g35 and it gave it back its horse power it use to drive like ass now it drives better after putting heet
@@Gbodyteggy1208 On cars it works great because it keeps the water mixed up into the fuel
@@IndRepair i use the red one but i tried the yellow one on my car it ran like shit but now seems kinda different
@Gbodyteggy1208 for sure
good test, loved when the engine fired.... my luck, everything falls to floor, shop burns down, but saved the test vid....
Haha! I sure thought it was going to! Thanks for watching
I believe a really helpful test would be to fill the 5 jars with new E10 fuel. Then add the prescribed amount of the additives in the jars and come back every month and check how well they are preventing the fuel from phase separating. Once the fuel is contaminated and phase separation has occured, it is clear the train has left the station.
That is a good test to see of if products stabilize the fuel! I can tell you from experience and what I see that these products do not work in a small engine application. In a car with constant flow these things may work to perform a task but do nothing to reverse phase separation or rwmove gunk. Reversing the phase separation or removing ethanol gum/varnish to fix a problem machine is what all these products want you to believe they do
Thank you for this video, how do you color the water blue ?
Water soluble food coloring works perfect for this. Thanks for watching!
I have 30 gallons of very old and stale gas. I'm going to try putting some in old one gallon milk jugs and putting them in the freezer. This should freeze the water allowing me to pour off the gas . Then I'll try a 50/50 mix with good fuel and see what happens. What do you think? The old gas by the way is eight years old. I may need to change my ratio or try adding an octane booster or methanol. I might also try aniline oil, this is and old octane booster from the past. Any thoughts?
That sure is old fuel, the octane as you said is likely pretty low. A freezer could introduce moisture but if already saturated it likely won't matter. Interesting though on how to do this!
I have used Trufuel to get rid of 10 gallons of 4 year old stored gasoline. 5 gallon can, pour in one gallon old fuel and 4 cans of new Trufuel, then add it to the car (just before fill up). Took a while, but did get rid of it without taking it to hazardous waste disposal. Maybe a less dilute mixture would have worked, but this is what I did. The stored gasoline did have Sta-bil in it, but that only lasts so long. The 92 octane of the Trufuel helped as well (I think). Expensive, but 6 months later and it seems to have caused no issues to my vehicle.
What is the difference between the red bottle and yellow bottle of hert?
The yellow bottle has Methanol in it and the red has isopropanol in it. They are bolth to remove water and prevent gas line freeze up but work in different ways. Thanks for watching!
@@IndRepair they’re also much more concentrated and “dry” compared to say 70 or even 91% isopropyl alcohol bought from Wally World or a drug store. If you look at the SDS the other ingredients are in the thousandths of a percent. And of course anhydrous is critical because you can’t be trying to dry fuel with something that has water already in it. For the price heet is the purest, driest alcohol solvent that is readily available. I really have no idea as to the amount of water already in seafoam or those other products. It’s interesting that the seafoam sds describes it as insoluble in water when it has a decent isopropanol component. Having water content in the alcohol used to make seafoam would enhance its carbon cleaning abilities though, like how they compare its cleaning abilities to water sucked in though the vacuum line 😂
The red one is strawbery
The yellow bottle of Heet is commonly used in alcohol stoves since it is pure methanol. The red one is a different type of alcohol.
@@john_in_phoenix Then why do they sell both in the automotive section?
I have put Primrose Phaser to work to rescue phase separated gasoline at a ratio of 1% by volume, which works very well to rescue approximately 95% of issue, while also cleaning up gum and varnish issues, which are usually created during phase separation.
How ever if one has high parts per million of condensation in ones gasoline as we witnessed here, it is beneficial for one to have more real estate to park the excess condensation, or additional gasoline from a different source, to be added to this phased out gasoline & Phaser 3000.
My opinion is that you had plenty of Primrose Phaser 3000 Martin for parking this out of spec gasoline. However if there where more places to except this phased out issue, usually 10% more gasoline needs to be add.
Example there is 32 oz of phased out gasoline × 1% = point .32 oz. of Primrose Phaser 3000, if the gasoline did not clear add 10 % or 3.2 oz of additional gasoline. 99% of the time Phaser has one back in business.
In the case of ones lawn mower with one quart of phased out gasoline, Primrose can have one up and running for a maximum of 1.99 cents = 1% rescue cost, and for .09 tenths of a cents in this lawn mower with 1 quart of gasoline Primrose Phaser 3000 has the ability to inhibit this quagmire all together for a minimum of 2 year if Phaser 3000 is put to work at the conception of purchasing the gasoline.
I must mention one thing I felt was interesting is the engine when stated Martin, there was no smoking from this gasoline you rescued with the Phaser 3000.
It definitely works. I don't use it in equipment for rescue purposes but we do treat everything that leaves the shop with it and ethanol free fuel. Never do they come back with a fuel issue! Thanks for watching and for your further input on field application!
I'm lucky, i got a gas station nearby that sells 87 E0. My small engines have never seen ethanol.
That is the best thing you could ever do!
everybody needs to view the x2 commercial ..can be seen on tv show about boats as well
Commercials show little in the way of truths in most instances I see but an independent test would get good may do one here vs a couple others people have mentioned over the last year or so
I don't know what Seafoam does to gas, but I DO know that it keeps my gas (regular 87octane pump gas) working and cleans the carb as it works and is an excellent fuel stabilizer which is all I ever used. For the past 30+ years since I started using Seafoam, I have never had to tear down any of my carburetors to clean them or get rid of old fuel. My motors start right up after long term storage. I don't get the idea of all that water in the gas? I've NEVER had that problem with any of my gas tanks.
Simply reason for this test is because ethanol gathers moisture from the air and it condenses in the tank. It is the most common issue with no start fuel issues any area where there is mid to high humidity. I have heard of people with the same results as you on Seafoam but it is definitely not the norm. Some of these things work for certain instances but not good all the way around. Sea foam claims to work by making fuel resist evaporation so this may help with stabalization. If the fuel gathers moisture it will not take care of the issue. What area of the county do you live in?
How flammable is that water layer though? Alcohol being miscible with water would at some point make that blue later consist of enough alcohol whether methanol or whatever to burn
Could be possible but I would say it's not likely? The color of that layer never really changes with any of the additives even though it gets mixed into a solution and drops back out multiple times
Nice video but... you used the same dropper to mix all the bottles. In essence you cross contaminated all the samples by mixing different formulas. There's no telling what may or may not have happened.
Thanks for watching!
Lol 😂
I appreciate this video, even with the minuscule possibility of cross contamination.
Thanks for taking the time to do this experiment….. it’s saving me money and helping my vehicles performance.
also if a carb is gummy ...machanic works the best to free up a gummy float
Just pull and clean the carb is the safest solution to a problem
compare K100
Heard of it but never seen it around here...may just do that!
Water is soluble in acetone. Acetone is soluble in gasoline. It should work well to make gasoline with some water in it burn efficiently in an engine.
With a system that uses a fuel pump and the fuel is always moving most of these make a solution of the gas/ethanol/water at least momentarily (which if continually moving moisture may stay in the solution) but in a carbureted system it will never stay mixed since it is not moving constantly. Thanks for watching!
Acetone is highly corrosive and it will dissolve your seals and possibly any plastic lines or parts like most fuel injectors. However, isopropyl alcohol is very similar to acetone but far less corrosive which is why many products use isopropanol.
Get to it
Right on...
Use just mr funnel as simple as that
It works in certain situations but if the water is mixed with ethanol blended fuel it flows right through. Best to use after pulling only the top 80% or so out of a container after letting it settle. Using this method it eliminates the need for this funnel at all. Thanks for watching!
@@IndRepair or just add octane booster which worked for my car that was sitting for 3 years!
I don't think you are getting a very good measurement with that dropper on increments under 1 ml. Also small batches like this probably don't have any reaction as a large multi gallon batch would.
Under 1ml measurements will not make much of a difference in this case as the test prove. Thanks for watching!
You must be a genius.
x2 marine formula actually does stop pnase seperation
Never heard or it hmm
People just refuse to empty their fuel cans, they put fresh fuel on top of their bad fuel with water
They sure do! Then they look for a miracle cure to take care of the issue like these claim to be!
Why didn't you siphon off some of bottom layer and see if it was combustible. You keep assuming it is water.
If it separates out like this its never going to be combustible enough to run in a small engine even if it were to be flammable at some really high dosage
x2 would blow all of these away
May try it..
Don’t use can fuel I heard. . But I think get a fuel water seperated only with pet cock so you can drain it once in a while.
Many of the petcocks with not drain from the bottom, they drain and leave 1/8" in the tank many times which causes the water to stay in place
LOL......Hillbilly chemistry
I think they call that something else lol