Thanks for all the tips. Fantastic video... I’ve done this before but a bloody long time ago. By the look of the end of the video it’s time do your control arm bushes too haha 😅
Haha definitely, they are extra castor bushes but they seem to be a little too squashed and I have changed the lift so will go back to factory bushes👍🏻
you made that needle bearing removal/replacement so easy. Ive always had trouble getting it out. Grinded down a metal punch with a lip to catch the end of the bearing race. But about to replace my stub axles with new bearings, i noticed you used a socket to drive down the needle bearing below the end of the stub axle end. My new replacement stub axle came preinstalled with needle bearing installed and it is flush with the end of the stub axle.
Just a tip that's missed in the video - the manual says to torque the lock ring to 198nm before backing it off and then torquing to 3-5nm. This ensures that the wheel bearings are seated correctly.
I didn't see ya put cv grease on the cv joint, when I did mine year's ago I put heaps around the cv, but now it's time to do it all again, it was probably about 10 years ago and it's leaking on driver's side but I'LL be doing both again, one thing I didn't do but will do this time is clean and paint the back like you did, cheers , thanks for ya video mate 👍 Mine's a GQ ....
Thanks mate 👍. The race in the brake disk is for the wheel bearings, I had a look at them and they looked like they were healthy and they also happen to be quite easy to replace if I wanted to do them later.
Another tip is if you get new main wheel bearings and it has a little flat disc with it, you bought a gq wheel bearing and that disc won’t allow your bearings to sit properly so throw it away
I’m assuming you meant to type “sealant” I used blue RTV gasket maker, few different brands you can get but it shouldn’t really matter. As long as it can handle a little bit of heat any sealant should be in the right ballpark 👍🏻
If its in the Nissan manual then I must have missed it, unless you're talking about the kingpin shims. I breezed over them in this video but as long as you put them back where they came from and the knuckle moves freely it should be fine.
I done plenty of cruiser swivel hubs, but never a patrol. Great 2 part video mate. Helped in a few spots!👍🎯🍻🇦🇺
Thanks mate glad you found it helpful 🤙🏻
Great stuff. Sound less daunting than i thought. Great
Glad you enjoyed it 👍🏻
Thanks for all the tips. Fantastic video... I’ve done this before but a bloody long time ago.
By the look of the end of the video it’s time do your control arm bushes too haha 😅
Haha definitely, they are extra castor bushes but they seem to be a little too squashed and I have changed the lift so will go back to factory bushes👍🏻
you made that needle bearing removal/replacement so easy. Ive always had trouble getting it out. Grinded down a metal punch with a lip to catch the end of the bearing race. But about to replace my stub axles with new bearings, i noticed you used a socket to drive down the needle bearing below the end of the stub axle end. My new replacement stub axle came preinstalled with needle bearing installed and it is flush with the end of the stub axle.
Thanks mate, I couldn’t find in my manual how far to seat the bearing so I sent it all the way home 😂
Just a tip that's missed in the video - the manual says to torque the lock ring to 198nm before backing it off and then torquing to 3-5nm. This ensures that the wheel bearings are seated correctly.
Great info mate, thanks for sharing I’ll remember to do that next time 👍🏻
198Nm? Thanks for the info!
Please if you do tho. Have multiple bearing removal tools! I snapped my one on the loose and they nearly were stuck at 198nm! @ReubsModifications
Nice job, will be making the same on my Y61 in the next few months 👍
Good luck! They are pretty easy once you lay out all the parts and get an idea on where everything goes 👍
I didn't see ya put cv grease on the cv joint, when I did mine year's ago I put heaps around the cv, but now it's time to do it all again, it was probably about 10 years ago and it's leaking on driver's side but I'LL be doing both again, one thing I didn't do but will do this time is clean and paint the back like you did, cheers , thanks for ya video mate 👍
Mine's a GQ ....
Thanks for the tip mate ill have to look into that if I end up doing it again. Appreciate the feedback 👍
I did this job yesterday. in Europe you have to put a lot more grease in the bearings! the climate is more humid
Great tip 👍🏻
Super helpful video!
Is there a reason why you didn’t replace the races in the brake assembly?
Thanks mate 👍. The race in the brake disk is for the wheel bearings, I had a look at them and they looked like they were healthy and they also happen to be quite easy to replace if I wanted to do them later.
Great work
Thanks mate 😀
Very helpful
Glad you think so, always good to hear 👍
Awesome work, I'm about to rebuild the set of axles I have, these videos are helpful.
When is part 7 of the axle swap coming?
Awesome to hear mate I’ve been away for a couple weeks I’ll look at getting onto it in the next month 👍🏻
Awesome and very helpful video mate, i was wondering how long did it take you to do 1? Mine is due for a change next weekend
Thanks mate, I did mine over a weekend but I was filming. I think that you'd be able to do it in a day if you had everything ready to go.
@ReubsModifications awesome thanks mate! Again thank you for informative video. I have subscribed to watch more of your videos
Thanks mate appreciate your support👍🏼
Another tip is if you get new main wheel bearings and it has a little flat disc with it, you bought a gq wheel bearing and that disc won’t allow your bearings to sit properly so throw it away
Thanks for the info mate, awesome to get some extra tips.
Hey mate, couldn’t you have just punched the whole needle bearing out like you did with the Race? Or nah
Cheers
I had to punch the needles and cage out so that I could get the weld onto the race to shrink it 👍
What salient did you use on the spindle?
I’m assuming you meant to type “sealant” I used blue RTV gasket maker, few different brands you can get but it shouldn’t really matter. As long as it can handle a little bit of heat any sealant should be in the right ballpark 👍🏻
What is the parts number of the inner seal.
Hey mate the OEM Nissan part is 40533-01J00 the Trail Safe Seals that I used are 303752-KIT on Superior Engineering.
Where's the d22 sass build?
Keeps getting put off, I do need to get back onto it though.
Hey mate, use high temp grease for all bearings, not cv grease, cause cv grease has molybdenum which is bad for bearings
Thanks for the info mate 👍🏻 I’ll remember that for next time
Thanks for the info mate 👍🏻 I’ll remember that for next time
Don’t ya have to set preload on the kingpin bearings or some shit
If its in the Nissan manual then I must have missed it, unless you're talking about the kingpin shims. I breezed over them in this video but as long as you put them back where they came from and the knuckle moves freely it should be fine.