How To Install Mohawk Vinyl 4-in-1 Molding Performance Accessories
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
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DO NOT WEAR GLOVES WHILE OPERATING A POWER SAW!!!
In the video, viewers are told to wear safety glasses and gloves when operating the power saw. Yes, it is a safe practice to wear safety glasses while doing this, and OSHA also requires it. However, wearing gloves is unsafe and is an OSHA violation. Wearing gloves while operating a power saw does nothing to protect your hands. In fact, it makes it far more likely that your hand will be pulled into the blade, resulting in amputation.
NEVER WEAR GLOVES WHILE OPERATING A POWER SAW!!!
Thank you! I have never thought about that, but it does make sense.
Thank you!
What gap is needing between the two substrates? 1.75 inches?
Hello,
If using it as a T-molding, you would typically run it underneath each side by 1/4" or so, but you have a bit of flexibility, just make sure your floor has the required expansion space.
thanks!@@znetflooring
What kind of blade should the saw?
We would always use a miter saw with a carbide tip blade.
What space do you leave between the two rooms?
Hello, I believe the instructions for most products ask for 1/4" expansion space.
I cannot find how wide the plastic track is. Clearly you need to leave enough gap between floors to install the track…my transitions haven’t shown up in the mail yet- any help?
I do not have one in front of me. What is going on the other side of your transition piece?
You would also need to leave room for expansion.
1.5” total width so 0.75” on both side of centerline
Can this be used against a tub? I’d plan on using silicone caulk on the side closest to the tub.
Yes it can be and it would be a good idea with fill the expansion space with silicone as well. Most installers, that I have seen, would use quarter round or a base shoe against the tub gluing it on, but either should be work well. Many also cut it tight and caulk it, but that does void warranties and is not suggested.
I have 6mm thick flooring that require the foam backer strip at the entire perimeter. First transition piece I'm setting is an end molding to the front door. Should I butt the flooring right up to the shims (for the 6mm thick flooring) or do I set a 1/4-3/8" gap for expansion away from the shims?
Hello,
Since this is 6mm, I assume it is a vinyl floor? I do not believe the backer rod is required on the 100% waterproof vinyl floors.
In order to keep warranty intact, it is suggested to leave 1/4" expansion gap everywhere, there should be enough room to leave expansion against the shims.
@@znetflooring unfortunately the waterproofing is only on top of the vinyl planks, it doesnt have the waterproofing underneath. Backer rod is required on perimeter for that reason. OK cool, so 1/4 gap between the planks and 4-1 transition shims.
@@juru635 Yes, keep the expansion gap against the shims in order to have an intact warranty.
@@znetflooring Here's a follow-up question. With the expansion gap, I'm using quarter round to cover it at all wall sections. Some entryways are designed like walls (no door frames) so they have baseboard trim all the way around. My intention was to put quarter round over the baseboard and then have the transition track and transition) butt up against the quarter round instead of the entryway. This means that the tracks and transition would only span the distance of the quarter round and not the entryway. Does this sound feasible?
Or should I make the tracks long enough to span the distance from baseboard to baseboard and the transition itself span just the quarter round. (appearance wise, the transition piece itself looks better going from quarter round to quarter round then trying to tailor the quarter round to match the transition (or carve out part of the quarter round to cover the transition)
@@juru635
If I am understanding you correctly, I believe so.
You mean you are cutting the transition up against the quarter round instead of up against the baseboards which would require cutting the quarter round around the transition?
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