I was looking at this review again, after a few weeks of bingewatching every single video in the channel, and enjoyed it very much. As you know I have a soft spot for all the scalers. This looks so nice as a scaler rig. Probably one of the best as far as chassis is concerned, with all the soft bushings, suspension and axle design and layout... A pity the gearbox materials and some details on the lights of the body (not referring to the light kit, but the light housings,p articularly the front ones), let the body a bit down for what could be the ultimate scaler 80 series. I hope whenever you decide to battle the TF2 and BRX01 for whichever performance and scale traits test you come up with, you don't forget to throw this rig into the "scaler's comparison test". =)
I've linked to my detailed article in the video Description, which includes a list of everything I used in this build. Here's a little info, but see my article for more: Tire Dimensions: Outer size :99.6mm - 3.9inch Inner size : 48.2mm - 1.9inch Width : 30.4mm - 1.2 inch Foam inserts included
I have not heard of this chassis before I came across this very video of yours (and I have been browsing TH-cam for scale crawlers way more than one might consider healthy). I can actually find it here in DE, but I fully and utterly failed to find any source of replacement parts. Does the company still exists? I would seriously consider this chassis for a scale build, but not being able to find parts anywhere pretty much kills it for me, unfortunately.
For what it's worth, I've used this a bunch and haven't broken anything. But consider: - it's slow, single speed and even with a brushless system, it's not a good 'driver' - the transmission is very heavy and very loud, which becomes annoying on the trail after a bit - it is not particularly capable, and so doesn't get chosen a lot for driving here After looking around though, you're right. There aren't parts easily available for this - though my experience with some of the AliExpress hobby stores is they'll sell you anything if you ask for it. Ymmv!
@@RCTNT much appreciated, thank you! It would appear, that the choice of scale-ish trailing oriented crawlers is pretty thin unless one can go and get the BRX01 or 02. The more I am looking at it, the more I realize that one can either get the MST DC1, or bite the non-scale bullet and go for the AT4 ... The funny thing is - it is exactly the trailing rigs that would most profit from lock-able diffs, yet none of them have this feature.
So loud. Haven't found a way to change that, unfortunately. Different motors, packing it with grease, etc. Nope, you know when this rig is coming down the trails, you hear it before you see it!
I've recently received a Komodo gmade gs01 kit and was interested in placing a LC80 hard body on it....not built any rc trucks since I was a kid lol I'm 50 now 🤣, Any tips on upgrades to use on the kit......looking to replace shocks tyres knuckles and maybe look into metal axle housing......not in any rush gonna try to scale it as realistic as I can.
Nice one, Neil. My best suggestion is to take it slowly. Get hold of the body, first and foremost. Work out how you want to attach it to the chassis. If you get the Team Raffee body, there's a bracket you can get that adapts it to any chassis, as long as you can get the brackets bolted on. Find the body here: asiate.es/aff?l=140664&i=76070 Brackets here: www.aliexpress.com/item/32912593371.html I fit one of these to a TRX-4 some time back. Check out my video on that here: th-cam.com/video/3IyEzy_f8Lg/w-d-xo.html Note, I attached the body through the side-rails/sliders rather than using the brackets as linked above. In hindsight, the brackets would have been a lot better, but my way was definitely cheap, if not as durable! Happy tinkering!
Thats really awesome looks great. I just built a 3 racing crawler kit and i put a 2 door jeep Cherokee xj hard body on it think i might check this one out sometime if i ever have a chance at least a lc80 hard body like that! 👍 I would run it until something broke for sure haha
Acrylic spray paint from a rattle can, from the hardware store. Followed with clear coat. Wash the body, lightly sand if needed, then paint in thin layers. Allow to dry, add fine details if desired, then a couple of layers of clear coat 👍
Mate, could you give some information how to build in the steering servo? I've got my kit from Ali Express and for these steering modul there are only two alloy pulles and the micro servo. No frame for the servo or other stuff. I hope you could help. Thy from the other end of the rc world (germany) ;-)
The micro servo sits inside the plastic mold shape behind the dash. It drives a pulley and the bigger wheel on the end of the steering column. That's pretty much it, the whole mechanism is kinda weak and there is slop in the system. It doesn't have to work very hard, thankfully. (And if I was going through all this again, I probably would not worry about having the moving steering wheel - it just adds complexity and noise and you can barely see it when the car is driving - though it is definitely cool, which I totally do get). I hope you can work it out. If you're still stuck, tomorrow I will pull the car out and take some photos for you. Hopefully you manage it! I know the instructions are pretty rubbish with it!! Good luck :)
@@RCTNT Thx mate. i've found these little place for the servo but, imo, there is no choice to mount the two pulleys parallel. If ist possible, pictures are great. Thx in advance
Ok, Oliver, it's done. Thanks for waiting! The answer is here with pictures and more info. Cheers! rc-tnt.com/how-to/q-and-a/how-to-install-rcrun-run80-steering-wheel/
Thanks. Wheels were something like these www.asiatees.com/display?Team-Raffee-Co.-All-Parts-Hop-Ups-Upgrades&brand=Miscellaneous&model=All&id=152382&pid=1 Tires were cheapies, these: www.asiatees.com/display?Team-Raffee-Co.-SCX10-Parts-Hop-Ups-Upgrades&brand=Axial&model=SCX10&id=103300&pid=1
@@jayrivervalley9815 yep. 1.55 would be fine too, but 1.9 works if the tires aren't too big, I think. The body is 1:9 scale so the rolling bits need to be a little larger to look right.
Great rig... I have build one. But would you share tips how to make front cover lamp stick to their place. Mine was difficult to stick on their place, so it may fall in to the ground. Thanks before to share
Ah, yes! This is a challenge - I have two of these bodies (the other one is in my TRX4 hard body video) and retaining the lenses is a challenge. I use two small drops of super glue, but it isn't ideal. Sometimes the lens falls out and is lost. One trick I've used, especially for the comp truck (not so good for scale), is to fill the light cavity with hot glue and get it nice and smooth. Holds things in place and is tougher than the lens. Not as nice but reasonable if you lose the lens.
Thank you for the great review. I have been tossing a coin on whether to get one of these. Just curious as to how the battery fits into the whole thing.
Ian, that's an excellent question! I haven't worked that out quite yet. Currently I'm fitting a 3S 2200mAh battery snugly under the rear of the chassis rails, held in place with two Velcro battery straps. I think what I'd like to do is cut out a hatch in the rear luggage compartment of the body so a battery can fit there. I'm not so worried about cog given this is purely a fun rig rather than to be used in comps, so that's what I'm up to so far!
It just needs the two motor poles connected. You can run the power straight to a free rx port. Tell you what, I've got some accessories coming and we'll get this vehicle finished on a follow up video. I'll get the motor hooked up then so you can see how I do it. I haven't looked closely at it yet but possibly I'll even run a simple switch to it that gets it spinning only when you open the hood, to save unnecessary wear when noone can see it.
@@RCTNT yea I actually trying to finish mine up also and this is kinds the last part of the puzzle and I had actually forgot about it. Love the truck and it's massive potential thanks for taking the time to feature it in your videos. Was also wondering if you had the same issue I did and if you did anything about it. I also using the AXE540. The wires and the way they exit out the bottom are right on top of the axl limiting the travel rate a bit. I'm probably going to just roll with it since it's going g to be more a shelf queen but did you notice it and figure out anything about it? Thanks for taking the time to comment t back.
@@WhatAboutRC I firmly bent my wiring parallel to the motor and secured it up out of the way as much as possible. The diff only touches if you press both wheels down at once - but that won't happen when driving, not far enough to touch. One or the other wheel can fully articulate, just not at the same time. No real world impact there so I didn't worry about it!
It's such a shame this rig isn't available in the US. I'm not sure how one would go about importing one but it seems that it would be outrageous in costs to do so.
It's not in Australia, either. I got it directly from Hong Kong. Don't know what your import costs would be but it wasn't any more expensive than any other big name model here - cheaper than a lot of hard body rigs, indeed.
The 80 series never came with a 4.8 litre, I'm fairly sure it only came in the 3 litre inline 6 diesel, 4.2 litre petrol inline 6 and the 4.5 litre inline petrol inline 6
Nah bro I was tripping wtf was I talking abt. It cane in the 4.5l straight 6 petrol, and the 4.2l straight six diesel. Both with turbo variants. That 4.2l is slow as balls but just never stops.
I didn't really read your first comment too closely, obviously, or I'd have noticed! On this channel you'll see my 1HZ 80 series diesel (yes, slow as balls but unkillable as long as you keep the oil changed regularly) and also my 100 series with the mighty 1HD-FTE :) I grew up around Landcruisers. We had a 60 series and then an 80 series, both diesel. Dad put a turbo intercooler on the 80 series, which was transformative! I don't know much about the 80 series petrol engines but I have driven the bigger of the two. Maybe it was the 4.5l, but I thought they came in a 4l too. Anyway, I know the diesels 😎
@@RCTNT i didnt expect a response ahaha, im looking at getting a 105 as my first car, sold a bunch of stuff to be able to afford it. i really want a 1hz as they are more reliable and wayyyyyy cheaper to run. but from what i believe they only came with the poverty pack trim level which didnt feature ABS. and the folks arent keen on a 16 yr old dribing 2.5 ton car without ABS. so looks like itll have to be the 4.5 which means ill have to get a job and work more hours, which is tough as im practicing engineering and have little time. oh yeah, on the topic of the 1hzz, me and my dad test drove a 1hz with 398,000kms on the clock to get an idea for how they drive. engine was still healthy as expected but jesus, 5th gear pinned we krept up to 105kph and it was LOUD. i dont mind but it might get a little annoying. so i wondered if there are any 1hz's with a turbo from factory and ABS. found out the 100 has exactly that. but i need the straight axles in the 105 as i do tough tracks like powerline track in my cars. still making my mind up but certainly a good problem to have! i doubt youll read this as i tend to speak too much but thought id let you know. have a good one man, love your content and how genuine you are.
@@bendaff9618 thanks Ben. Agreed on that, if you build something like this, you want scale as the focus! (not that the 1/9 body makes it all that easy, mind you!)
The intro is so good
Heh, thanks. I'm still new to this, I'm glad it's working for people even if it is a bit corny! All up from here!
This rig is awesome!
Yeah! I really like it too! We'll get it finished on another video soon. Can't wait!
I was looking at this review again, after a few weeks of bingewatching every single video in the channel, and enjoyed it very much.
As you know I have a soft spot for all the scalers. This looks so nice as a scaler rig. Probably one of the best as far as chassis is concerned, with all the soft bushings, suspension and axle design and layout... A pity the gearbox materials and some details on the lights of the body (not referring to the light kit, but the light housings,p articularly the front ones), let the body a bit down for what could be the ultimate scaler 80 series. I hope whenever you decide to battle the TF2 and BRX01 for whichever performance and scale traits test you come up with, you don't forget to throw this rig into the "scaler's comparison test". =)
You bet, it'll be there!
That is one interesting RC truck. Wow!!!! How many years have you been bitten by the RC bug? I have never seen a kit like this before!
Heh probably 30+ years at this point, I'd think.
It is a cool little kit, eh!
Thks for sharing bro 😎
Nice video my friend 😍👍
Thanks :)
Bro can you tell me pls what size are the tires?
I've linked to my detailed article in the video Description, which includes a list of everything I used in this build. Here's a little info, but see my article for more:
Tire Dimensions:
Outer size :99.6mm - 3.9inch
Inner size : 48.2mm - 1.9inch
Width : 30.4mm - 1.2 inch
Foam inserts included
I have not heard of this chassis before I came across this very video of yours (and I have been browsing TH-cam for scale crawlers way more than one might consider healthy). I can actually find it here in DE, but I fully and utterly failed to find any source of replacement parts. Does the company still exists? I would seriously consider this chassis for a scale build, but not being able to find parts anywhere pretty much kills it for me, unfortunately.
For what it's worth, I've used this a bunch and haven't broken anything.
But consider:
- it's slow, single speed and even with a brushless system, it's not a good 'driver'
- the transmission is very heavy and very loud, which becomes annoying on the trail after a bit
- it is not particularly capable, and so doesn't get chosen a lot for driving here
After looking around though, you're right. There aren't parts easily available for this - though my experience with some of the AliExpress hobby stores is they'll sell you anything if you ask for it. Ymmv!
@@RCTNT much appreciated, thank you! It would appear, that the choice of scale-ish trailing oriented crawlers is pretty thin unless one can go and get the BRX01 or 02.
The more I am looking at it, the more I realize that one can either get the MST DC1, or bite the non-scale bullet and go for the AT4 ...
The funny thing is - it is exactly the trailing rigs that would most profit from lock-able diffs, yet none of them have this feature.
I've been asking Boom Racing to give us remote lockers for ages. I'll keep on it.
Is your gearbox loud too? Any idea to get it more silent?
So loud. Haven't found a way to change that, unfortunately. Different motors, packing it with grease, etc. Nope, you know when this rig is coming down the trails, you hear it before you see it!
@@RCTNT Same problem here. I tried all the things you did, additional shimming but with less influence. Still loud...
Rubber transmission mounts would probably help a bit, but that might take some engineering. Maybe 3d-printed TPU mounts... Hmm
I've recently received a Komodo gmade gs01 kit and was interested in placing a LC80 hard body on it....not built any rc trucks since I was a kid lol I'm 50 now 🤣, Any tips on upgrades to use on the kit......looking to replace shocks tyres knuckles and maybe look into metal axle housing......not in any rush gonna try to scale it as realistic as I can.
Nice one, Neil. My best suggestion is to take it slowly. Get hold of the body, first and foremost. Work out how you want to attach it to the chassis. If you get the Team Raffee body, there's a bracket you can get that adapts it to any chassis, as long as you can get the brackets bolted on.
Find the body here: asiate.es/aff?l=140664&i=76070
Brackets here: www.aliexpress.com/item/32912593371.html
I fit one of these to a TRX-4 some time back. Check out my video on that here: th-cam.com/video/3IyEzy_f8Lg/w-d-xo.html
Note, I attached the body through the side-rails/sliders rather than using the brackets as linked above. In hindsight, the brackets would have been a lot better, but my way was definitely cheap, if not as durable!
Happy tinkering!
@@RCTNT Thankyou for taking the time to reply much appreciated 🙏 thanks for the links too, you got a sub from , love your enthusiasm for the hobby.
Thats really awesome looks great. I just built a 3 racing crawler kit and i put a 2 door jeep Cherokee xj hard body on it think i might check this one out sometime if i ever have a chance at least a lc80 hard body like that! 👍 I would run it until something broke for sure haha
Oh that sounds interesting! I've looked at the kit I think you're talking about, I bet it's great! Enjoy it-I'm loving this thing too!
bom dia, para pintar a carroceria, vc usa qual tinta e qual metodo para pintar?
Acrylic spray paint from a rattle can, from the hardware store. Followed with clear coat. Wash the body, lightly sand if needed, then paint in thin layers. Allow to dry, add fine details if desired, then a couple of layers of clear coat 👍
Nice review 😍 well explained.. i want to know what is the steering servo did you use for this rig?
Thank you! The little servo was included with the kit, actually. Any mini servo should fit though. 2.4cm wide I think it is, from hazy memory!
Mate, could you give some information how to build in the steering servo? I've got my kit from Ali Express and for these steering modul there are only two alloy pulles and the micro servo. No frame for the servo or other stuff. I hope you could help.
Thy from the other end of the rc world (germany) ;-)
The micro servo sits inside the plastic mold shape behind the dash. It drives a pulley and the bigger wheel on the end of the steering column. That's pretty much it, the whole mechanism is kinda weak and there is slop in the system. It doesn't have to work very hard, thankfully. (And if I was going through all this again, I probably would not worry about having the moving steering wheel - it just adds complexity and noise and you can barely see it when the car is driving - though it is definitely cool, which I totally do get).
I hope you can work it out. If you're still stuck, tomorrow I will pull the car out and take some photos for you. Hopefully you manage it! I know the instructions are pretty rubbish with it!! Good luck :)
@@RCTNT Thx mate. i've found these little place for the servo but, imo, there is no choice to mount the two pulleys parallel.
If ist possible, pictures are great.
Thx in advance
Righto, I'll see what I can do!
Ok, Oliver, it's done. Thanks for waiting! The answer is here with pictures and more info. Cheers!
rc-tnt.com/how-to/q-and-a/how-to-install-rcrun-run80-steering-wheel/
Great video, just got the body myself. What size/ model wheels and tires are the ones in the video?
Thanks.
Wheels were something like these
www.asiatees.com/display?Team-Raffee-Co.-All-Parts-Hop-Ups-Upgrades&brand=Miscellaneous&model=All&id=152382&pid=1
Tires were cheapies, these:
www.asiatees.com/display?Team-Raffee-Co.-SCX10-Parts-Hop-Ups-Upgrades&brand=Axial&model=SCX10&id=103300&pid=1
@@RCTNT ok, so 1.9”. Thank you!
@@jayrivervalley9815 yep. 1.55 would be fine too, but 1.9 works if the tires aren't too big, I think. The body is 1:9 scale so the rolling bits need to be a little larger to look right.
Great rig... I have build one. But would you share tips how to make front cover lamp stick to their place. Mine was difficult to stick on their place, so it may fall in to the ground. Thanks before to share
Ah, yes! This is a challenge - I have two of these bodies (the other one is in my TRX4 hard body video) and retaining the lenses is a challenge. I use two small drops of super glue, but it isn't ideal.
Sometimes the lens falls out and is lost. One trick I've used, especially for the comp truck (not so good for scale), is to fill the light cavity with hot glue and get it nice and smooth. Holds things in place and is tougher than the lens. Not as nice but reasonable if you lose the lens.
Thank you for the great review. I have been tossing a coin on whether to get one of these. Just curious as to how the battery fits into the whole thing.
Ian, that's an excellent question! I haven't worked that out quite yet. Currently I'm fitting a 3S 2200mAh battery snugly under the rear of the chassis rails, held in place with two Velcro battery straps.
I think what I'd like to do is cut out a hatch in the rear luggage compartment of the body so a battery can fit there. I'm not so worried about cog given this is purely a fun rig rather than to be used in comps, so that's what I'm up to so far!
Anyone know how to hook the vibration motor up?
It just needs the two motor poles connected. You can run the power straight to a free rx port.
Tell you what, I've got some accessories coming and we'll get this vehicle finished on a follow up video. I'll get the motor hooked up then so you can see how I do it.
I haven't looked closely at it yet but possibly I'll even run a simple switch to it that gets it spinning only when you open the hood, to save unnecessary wear when noone can see it.
@@RCTNT yea I actually trying to finish mine up also and this is kinds the last part of the puzzle and I had actually forgot about it. Love the truck and it's massive potential thanks for taking the time to feature it in your videos.
Was also wondering if you had the same issue I did and if you did anything about it. I also using the AXE540. The wires and the way they exit out the bottom are right on top of the axl limiting the travel rate a bit. I'm probably going to just roll with it since it's going g to be more a shelf queen but did you notice it and figure out anything about it?
Thanks for taking the time to comment t back.
@@WhatAboutRC I firmly bent my wiring parallel to the motor and secured it up out of the way as much as possible.
The diff only touches if you press both wheels down at once - but that won't happen when driving, not far enough to touch. One or the other wheel can fully articulate, just not at the same time. No real world impact there so I didn't worry about it!
@@RCTNT Awesome man thanks for the input.
@@RCTNT By any chance did you ever get that belt motor wired up?
It's such a shame this rig isn't available in the US. I'm not sure how one would go about importing one but it seems that it would be outrageous in costs to do so.
It's not in Australia, either. I got it directly from Hong Kong. Don't know what your import costs would be but it wasn't any more expensive than any other big name model here - cheaper than a lot of hard body rigs, indeed.
The 80 series never came with a 4.8 litre, I'm fairly sure it only came in the 3 litre inline 6 diesel, 4.2 litre petrol inline 6 and the 4.5 litre inline petrol inline 6
Heh yep quite right, 4.5L is correct! Not 4.8L. Nice catch.
@@RCTNT cheers
Nah bro I was tripping wtf was I talking abt. It cane in the 4.5l straight 6 petrol, and the 4.2l straight six diesel. Both with turbo variants. That 4.2l is slow as balls but just never stops.
I didn't really read your first comment too closely, obviously, or I'd have noticed! On this channel you'll see my 1HZ 80 series diesel (yes, slow as balls but unkillable as long as you keep the oil changed regularly) and also my 100 series with the mighty 1HD-FTE :)
I grew up around Landcruisers. We had a 60 series and then an 80 series, both diesel. Dad put a turbo intercooler on the 80 series, which was transformative!
I don't know much about the 80 series petrol engines but I have driven the bigger of the two. Maybe it was the 4.5l, but I thought they came in a 4l too. Anyway, I know the diesels 😎
@@RCTNT i didnt expect a response ahaha, im looking at getting a 105 as my first car, sold a bunch of stuff to be able to afford it. i really want a 1hz as they are more reliable and wayyyyyy cheaper to run. but from what i believe they only came with the poverty pack trim level which didnt feature ABS. and the folks arent keen on a 16 yr old dribing 2.5 ton car without ABS. so looks like itll have to be the 4.5 which means ill have to get a job and work more hours, which is tough as im practicing engineering and have little time. oh yeah, on the topic of the 1hzz, me and my dad test drove a 1hz with 398,000kms on the clock to get an idea for how they drive. engine was still healthy as expected but jesus, 5th gear pinned we krept up to 105kph and it was LOUD. i dont mind but it might get a little annoying. so i wondered if there are any 1hz's with a turbo from factory and ABS. found out the 100 has exactly that. but i need the straight axles in the 105 as i do tough tracks like powerline track in my cars. still making my mind up but certainly a good problem to have! i doubt youll read this as i tend to speak too much but thought id let you know. have a good one man, love your content and how genuine you are.
nice
Thanks for dropping by! I appreciate your time here :)
Ok
Indeed
@@RCTNT nice build btw, I like that yours isn't super lifted and has oem looking rims
@@bendaff9618 thanks Ben. Agreed on that, if you build something like this, you want scale as the focus! (not that the 1/9 body makes it all that easy, mind you!)