I was fortunate enough to be in Paris over two decades ago. I made a bee line for the Shiseido boutique at the Palais Royale. After smelling the half a dozen or so magical scents in the rarefied atmosphere of the chic interior, I narrowed it down to three. I took the three scent strips and sat on a bench outside to ponder. The one which spoke to me, I'm sure you can guess. I was surprised to hear that it is Monsieur Luten's personal fragrance. I once read that he wore no perfumes at all. Perhaps he was feeling a tad mischievous at the interview. I still delight in Cuir Mauresque and am thrilled to still have some of such an old formulation. I hope you enjoy it as much as I do. Being Luten's fave, it likely has stayed faithful to how he created it. Any possible tweaks would likely be to please the artist himself. It never fails to transport me to a very enigmatic realm.
Beautiful story! The last time I was in Paris I was only a teen and not at all aware of Lutens, but it is at the top of my list of places to visit if I'm in France again. I first read that it was the only one Serge himself wears on Kafkaesque's wonderful review. I just checked the source and she is quoting a description from Luckyscent, ahh the days when Serge was at luckyscent! I've copied below the quote: "the master himself [Serge Lutens] has gone on record saying he doused himself in [it] on the rare occasions when he goes out. And considering the choice he’s got, that’s saying quite a lot."
@@cheapimitation2242 Thanks for the quote. I am, ahem, obviously older than you. It's terrific to see that this fragrance has stood the test of time and is not derided as an Old Lady scent! Not that I have a problem with OL perfumes. I adore them and often wear them while swimming against the tide. I'd love to hear about your experience when you do visit The Boutique. It was very dark and very quiet the time I visited. It was just me and the soft spoken Asian lady assistant. Zero sales pitch. It had the distinctive vibe of an olfactive temple.
Congrats. It's gorgeous - both as a leather ánd as an orange blossom. Of the 21 bell jars I've got this one was the first I replenished with a gratte-ciel, and would do so again and again. As suggested by another commenter, it certainly is reminiscent of Cuir Cannage (which I also own) but the latter is much drier, less floral and spicy. I didn't know this was the one Uncle Serge wears himself - how fabulous.
Hi do you found big difference between the bell jar and the gratciell bottles in the juice? Please comment, respond I will appreciate it very much Thank you!
@@eliomcastillo8285 Hello Elio - less so with Cuir Mauresque than with Fumerie Turque. Keep in mind that I purchased both of them (and most of my collection of bell jars) between 2005 and 2010; so they have macerated, deepened over the many years. Still, both suffer somewhat from reduced complexity and longevity. To my nose, rose and honey have been dialed down in FT. CM may have less myrrh, less mandarin, less spices. The loss of longevity (and sillage) is most marked in FT - which was absolute beast mode in the bell jar and has become far more subdued, lasting about 4 hours max now. I find them both still very much FBW, though. They are stellar scents! FT more unique, while CM tops its genre.
@@Loufi303 I got tested again my FT Last night 2 am It's 9am now It's still strong not radiating but strong skin close scent 2 inches apart My bottle It's probably 3 years old Thank you! Can you sell me a small decant off both so I can enjoy and compare?
@@eliomcastillo8285 I wore my FT gratte ciel today, and it only radiates for about two hours, to evolve into a nocturnal skin scent. I don't sell, i'm sorry: i never did - too much hassle, and it disturbs my 20+ years collection (of about 400 bottles) . Moreover, I jealously guard my last drops of my FT bell jar. I wouldn't be afraid to get the gratte ciel if you can adjust your expectations just a tad. It remains a gorgeous addictive potion.
Just came across this while on vacation, picked up a few other things and wasn't planning on getting more, but after testing it I couldn't help myself... Loving it on first wear, at least.
An ancient smelling, holiday spice mélange. How very Lutens! Please do a full review once you’ve lived with it for a while. Not being able to easily sample has already led me to three Serge blind buys but, similar to your experience, I have enjoyed them all.
I also blind bought this and... it REALLY didn't work for me. Serge is such a risky brand to blind buy. It reminds me a lot Cuir Cannage to the point I would have difficulties telling the difference in the air.
@@cheapimitation2242 I had to place it in a special cupboard away from my collection. I didn't have a bad reaction to a perfume like that in a long time and I'm a big fan of Serge.
I was fortunate enough to be in Paris over two decades ago. I made a bee line for the Shiseido boutique at the Palais Royale. After smelling the half a dozen or so magical scents in the rarefied atmosphere of the chic interior, I narrowed it down to three. I took the three scent strips and sat on a bench outside to ponder. The one which spoke to me, I'm sure you can guess.
I was surprised to hear that it is Monsieur Luten's personal fragrance. I once read that he wore no perfumes at all. Perhaps he was feeling a tad mischievous at the interview.
I still delight in Cuir Mauresque and am thrilled to still have some of such an old formulation. I hope you enjoy it as much as I do. Being Luten's fave, it likely has stayed faithful to how he created it. Any possible tweaks would likely be to please the artist himself. It never fails to transport me to a very enigmatic realm.
Beautiful story! The last time I was in Paris I was only a teen and not at all aware of Lutens, but it is at the top of my list of places to visit if I'm in France again.
I first read that it was the only one Serge himself wears on Kafkaesque's wonderful review. I just checked the source and she is quoting a description from Luckyscent, ahh the days when Serge was at luckyscent! I've copied below the quote:
"the master himself [Serge Lutens] has gone on record saying he doused himself in [it] on the rare occasions when he goes out. And considering the choice he’s got, that’s saying quite a lot."
@@cheapimitation2242 Thanks for the quote. I am, ahem, obviously older than you. It's terrific to see that this fragrance has stood the test of time and is not derided as an Old Lady scent! Not that I have a problem with OL perfumes. I adore them and often wear them while swimming against the tide.
I'd love to hear about your experience when you do visit The Boutique. It was very dark and very quiet the time I visited. It was just me and the soft spoken Asian lady assistant. Zero sales pitch. It had the distinctive vibe of an olfactive temple.
Congrats. It's gorgeous - both as a leather ánd as an orange blossom. Of the 21 bell jars I've got this one was the first I replenished with a gratte-ciel, and would do so again and again. As suggested by another commenter, it certainly is reminiscent of Cuir Cannage (which I also own) but the latter is much drier, less floral and spicy. I didn't know this was the one Uncle Serge wears himself - how fabulous.
Hi do you found big difference between the bell jar and the gratciell bottles in the juice?
Please comment, respond
I will appreciate it very much
Thank you!
@@eliomcastillo8285 Hello Elio - less so with Cuir Mauresque than with Fumerie Turque. Keep in mind that I purchased both of them (and most of my collection of bell jars) between 2005 and 2010; so they have macerated, deepened over the many years. Still, both suffer somewhat from reduced complexity and longevity. To my nose, rose and honey have been dialed down in FT. CM may have less myrrh, less mandarin, less spices. The loss of longevity (and sillage) is most marked in FT - which was absolute beast mode in the bell jar and has become far more subdued, lasting about 4 hours max now. I find them both still very much FBW, though. They are stellar scents! FT more unique, while CM tops its genre.
@@Loufi303
I got tested again my FT
Last night 2 am
It's 9am now It's still strong not radiating but strong skin close scent 2 inches apart
My bottle It's probably 3 years old
Thank you!
Can you sell me a small decant off both so I can enjoy and compare?
@@eliomcastillo8285 I wore my FT gratte ciel today, and it only radiates for about two hours, to evolve into a nocturnal skin scent. I don't sell, i'm sorry: i never did - too much hassle, and it disturbs my 20+ years collection (of about 400 bottles) . Moreover, I jealously guard my last drops of my FT bell jar. I wouldn't be afraid to get the gratte ciel if you can adjust your expectations just a tad. It remains a gorgeous addictive potion.
@@Loufi303
Ah I se luckily my FT gratciell it's very long lasting radied and put to shame many other fragrances
It's just perfect
Just came across this while on vacation, picked up a few other things and wasn't planning on getting more, but after testing it I couldn't help myself... Loving it on first wear, at least.
@@paulhayns nice! I find it a bit challenging but also addictive, I keep wanting to come back and smell it again.
Just found your channel, enjoying your style of reviewing, I've just sub'd.
Thank you!
An ancient smelling, holiday spice mélange. How very Lutens!
Please do a full review once you’ve lived with it for a while. Not being able to easily sample has already led me to three Serge blind buys but, similar to your experience, I have enjoyed them all.
I adore Cuir Mauresque. Autumn/Winter is when it really suits me best.
I also blind bought this and... it REALLY didn't work for me. Serge is such a risky brand to blind buy. It reminds me a lot Cuir Cannage to the point I would have difficulties telling the difference in the air.
Haha yea as it wears on it only seems to be getting stronger and I'm questioning everything 😂
@@cheapimitation2242 I had to place it in a special cupboard away from my collection. I didn't have a bad reaction to a perfume like that in a long time and I'm a big fan of Serge.