I have a solution that does not does not mushroom the end and also does not require you to have to thread all the way to the bottom. Buy a 3/4 - 16 (5 inch) grade 5 bolt, under $8, and use a 3/8" (2 inch) socket extension with an 11 mm short socket on the end. Drop the socket and extension into the hole, it will pass through the threaded section with no problem and then thread your 5 inch bolt into the clutch threads. The clutch will pop off. No mushroom problem and no messed up threads. Thanks for the tips and idea.
Hey Mike! Thanks for the How-To!!! Only problem I had was that NO ONE around here has 3/4-16 thread stock or bolts (as per MR Fish's suggestion) I ran to every store we have in a 15 mile radius . We have Lowes, Tractor Supply, The Family Center( it's like Tractor Supply) and Rural King. No one had anything I could use and then I realized that it didn't matter what I used as long as I could get a wrench or something on it to turn. I ended up buying a 1 7/8" Trailer Hitch Ball ,lol. The shaft was 2 5/16" long and I used a 7/16" short socket and a 7/16" long socket inside the hole as a spacer. I had to use a pipe wrench to turn it and " POW " it popped loose with about a quarter turn. I spent $5.99 plus tax for it. Sometimes you just have to use whatever you can find for the job. I just wanted to say thanks to you guys for giving me some ideas . :)
Late to the party on this one, but that is totally redneck...and I LOVE it! I am all about the redneck solutions when possible. I already have the Polaris tool. Too bad I didn't see this before I bought it.
Thanks for showing us 'where there is a will, there is a way"... I pulled mine off using a trailer hitch 3/4×16 thread and a piece of threaded rod. With 2 ft plumbers wrench and a 2 ft extender the clutch popped off. Cheers and thanks.
Yep,I grew up with a buddy who his father was a machinist and he always showed us how to make our own tools when it was a special situation like this.I have my Sportsman 500 sitting outside ,all half disassembled and I wasn't certain of the exact thread size until seeing this video and now I am ready to tackle my engine R&R to finish it finally.To get the Primary Clutch off and get the used engine I got shipped in from out West somewhere!Thanks for the info in detail about the thread size and keep encouraging people to build their own stuff,just like the developer of this Quad did when they first built it!!!Keep on Wrenching brother!
For anyone who can't find the bolt, go to a fasteners place instead of a hardware store. You can also use the water method or place a smaller rod or socket extension in the clutch then use the 3/4" rod to remove it.
I too made my own tool. I used the proper-sized grade8 bolt and a separate length of steel rod as a 'pusher'. I would also suggest you use some grease on the threads and on the end where the pushing takes place. In this way, you are not wasting torque on friction as you tighten it.
This is why I love youtube,great ideas like this saves a guy a few bucks,bought a 3 ft piece of fine thread rod and made three pullers,they work slick.I will also work on the older john deere clutches too.thanks for sharing your great idea Mike.
You can heat up the very end of the rod orange hot with an oxy/acetylene torch then quickly quench it in used motor oil or something and that should harden it a bit.
Thanks for the video! Great idea I went to the local hardware store. I paid 7.78 for the 3ft rod and the 3 bolts. Lol I think in going to make 3 pullers and sell one for 10 dollars and make someone else happy. Again thanks again man!
I couldn't find a 3/4 16 at any of my local hardware stores, but I did find one at fastenal. I had to buy a 10 pack of fine threaded nuts due to they were out of singles. Total cost was about $31.00. Still, it's much cheaper than buying the tool and having it shipped. All worked out well removing the clutch on my Polaris 2004.5 sportsman. Thanks Mike, you-da-man:-)
Home depot, Lowes, tractor supply, neither one of them didn't have the rod so I had to go to Ace and paid $27.00 for the rod and $2.76 for each nut. Ace is expensive but they had it. Thanks for the video, very informative.
Good info. I found the all thread at a local bolt and fastener shop and used it on a polaris ranger 500 crew. The allthread doesn't need to be but 7 or 8" long. I didn't use an impact wrench, just a crescent wrench and a big screwdriver to keep it from rotating. I also didn't grind down the end, it wasn't enough pressure to mushroom that steel. The clutch came off easy with a couple kicks of the wrench. Thanks for the helpful video.
great video...thank you...love it when guys just get down to business...no stupid 2 min intro showing you sledding...or a friend jumping a car...with some soundtrack...haha..short...to the point and very informative...you sir have a new subscriber
Thank you for the video and the info! You just saved me a bundle of cash! I'm repairing my father-in-laws Sportsman 500 HO that his grandkids had messed up.
I've actually put oil in the hole as well, when threading in a bolt it will hydraulically push the clutch off....and no mushrooming. Oil cannot be compressed...
A lot of big truck spring tie bolts are that size. They usually have an allen head but you can cut it off and they are long enough too. So if you have a place that sells big truck parts you might check with them.
Your video was made in 2014. In the 2012 Polaris snowmobiles the clutch taper was changed. I don't know what size but they changed the clutch pullers as well
I found a 3/4x16 3" bolt at the hardware store. Grabbed a piece of 5/8" all-thread. Cut the all-thread to about 4" to fit inside the clutch, thread the bolt in to push on the all-thread. Less than $15.
My clutch was broken so the fixed sheave and crank starting spinning when I tried to take it off with the puller. The spider threads must have failed. Had to hold the fixed sheave with an 18"pipe wrench where the belt rides while I torqued on the puller.
Thanks a lot for the video. I made one and it works great. I ended up getting my parts from my local Fastenal. I tried Rural King, Tractor Supply, and Ace Hardware. All only had coarse thread. Also if you don't have a welder, you can use 5 min epoxy to seize the nuts on there for stubborn clutches.
So I just followed the link to Amazon. I have a grade 8 bolt i used before to remove a clutch. I inserted a cut piece of rod into the clutch before i threaded the bolt into the end years ago. I remember it did come off but really damaged the piece of rod I put on the hole. I may try the socket method but I agree. If you bugger up the clutch threads, the crank threads or jam something in the hole that cannot be removed, guess what will happen? You will spend the next 1/2 day cutting the clutch off with a grinder and buying a new one worse a new clutch and new crankshaft. Some clutches are crazy tight. FYI if it doesn't pull off you may try some heat and then ice then heat. the expansion cycle will help loosen it up. I had one that would not budge i tapped with a hammer heated nothing. When I came out in the morning to continue the carnage, it had popped off under the tension I had in it . Go figure. So what am I saying? If I was doing this enough or thought I would be needing the tool in the future I would make a series of hardened rods the proper size and hardened bolts to screw into the clutch as a puller. Or just buy the right one.
@@Mike_Wrecker .....hmm Im trying to recall some clutches in earlier machines. Mine were all aluminum with steel inserts in the center from what jumps out of my memory. Some may have been all aluminum. But correct mild steel would be harder than aluminum for sure and if something were to strip it wouldn't be the steel although it may bent and break theoretically. Any Ideas for removing the nut and spider on these?? Now that I have it off I have to stop the binding. So rust formed on the inner sheve shaft and the rust is stuck in the spider bearing. Ive tried everything to clear it out. needs to come apart... To the dealer Im afraid
Ok so Im crazy.. I have a 2006 Polaris FST 750 Weber Turbo. So I measured the depths of the hole and the depth to the shoulder in the clutch. I calculated the]at a 6" extension would go in the hole and bottom in the crank without bottoming in the clutch and binding. Then added a 1 1/2 " extension to this so say 7 1/2 ... connected 7 exactly. Then screwed my grade 8 3/4 x 16 x 4.5 inch in the hole. I was near the travel of my thread with 4 threads to spare (so more threads are better as mine only had 2" of thread) I tightened and it popped off. I am still going to get the correct puller, but it worked without any damage to anything. and this method is good in a pinch.Peace
What you could do to harden the end would be to shave more threads off and then heet it up like cherry red then put it in burnt oil and harden it like they do on forged in fire or may be not just thout of haven’t tryed it tho just personale thout to throw out there
I would just buy the $40 tool. That metal is softer than the hardened steel the tool is made out if. And those threads are weak on the all thread. It will possibly work a few times amd then mess up the threads in the clutch. Ending up costing you more than trying to save $. Just my thoughts on this from past life experiences. I have made many a tool to do stuff. In the end after a couple successful jobs. It fails and causes more problems.
Hi guys ....Just a fyi. buy a bolt that is 3 to 4 in long get some teflon tape. Get out your grease gun. Remove clutch bolt, fill with grease put teflon tape on the short bolt you bought thread into hole and use hydraulics to remove clutch..Try it you'll like it
Great video . thanks for sharing such a brilliant idea , is this the the same threads as the other clutch and have you given any thought as to compressing the spring on the secondary clutch to get the sir clip out ? Seems like if anyone could , it would be you !,
tried this yesterday on a 1997 xlt600 polaris snowmobile engine cannot get the rod to fit through hitting rubber garment at start of clutch hole, do i need to chamfer the end of the bolt to get past the rubber garment?
I made this , but have yet to get that clutch off I'm afraid to pry in clutch to hold it still , have used impact ,tried tapping with hammer etc but it still hasn't broke free , it's 2007 sportsman 450
Why not use a grade 8 bolt and a grade 8 pusher ? Also you may want to quantify your video title to include which model of Polaris you have used this workaround tool on. I’m fairly certain not all models use the same clutch puller tool.
i have a broken clutch bolt on a 2015 XP1000. I estimate there is about 1" of the bolt still in the crank. any suggestion on how to remove clutch if these ideas dont work???
Could you tell me the conversion to mm of the thread? I am getting confused. 3/4-16 tells me that it is a 20mm bolt with a thread hight of 2.5mm!? But the thread doesnt look like 2.5mm. More like 1.75, 1.5 or 1.25...Any idea in Metric???
LMAO so you figured out that is 3/4" by 16 threads per inch....but not what to do if it mushorroms the head??? easy take the two nuts off the back and thread it through. Great vid btw
this was my 1st time pulling a clutch. I made this tool, and I made the tapered end too narrow and it damaged the threads inside the shaft. What now? I cant find a 13mm tap & die set anywhere local. only online. so what size is the threading? 13mm x what?
I have a solution that does not does not mushroom the end and also does not require you to have to thread all the way to the bottom. Buy a 3/4 - 16 (5 inch) grade 5 bolt, under $8, and use a 3/8" (2 inch) socket extension with an 11 mm short socket on the end. Drop the socket and extension into the hole, it will pass through the threaded section with no problem and then thread your 5 inch bolt into the clutch threads. The clutch will pop off. No mushroom problem and no messed up threads. Thanks for the tips and idea.
That is actually a better idea than this! the only downside would be set up time, but if you only remove a few clutches per year, that's excellent.
What have you used this on, will it work on a 2015 XP1000
Mine is 2015 rzr 1000. For whatever reason the 3/8 extension and 11mm socket did not do it for me. I used a 6" and a 3/4" extension and it popped off.
Tried with a 11mm deep socket and it didnt work...
Thank u
Hey Mike! Thanks for the How-To!!! Only problem I had was that NO ONE around here has 3/4-16 thread stock or bolts (as per MR Fish's suggestion) I ran to every store we have in a 15 mile radius . We have Lowes, Tractor Supply, The Family Center( it's like Tractor Supply) and Rural King. No one had anything I could use and then I realized that it didn't matter what I used as long as I could get a wrench or something on it to turn. I ended up buying a 1 7/8" Trailer Hitch Ball ,lol. The shaft was 2 5/16" long and I used a 7/16" short socket and a 7/16" long socket inside the hole as a spacer. I had to use a pipe wrench to turn it and " POW " it popped loose with about a quarter turn. I spent $5.99 plus tax for it. Sometimes you just have to use whatever you can find for the job. I just wanted to say thanks to you guys for giving me some ideas . :)
Late to the party on this one, but that is totally redneck...and I LOVE it! I am all about the redneck solutions when possible. I already have the Polaris tool. Too bad I didn't see this before I bought it.
Thanks for showing us 'where there is a will, there is a way"... I pulled mine off using a trailer hitch 3/4×16 thread and a piece of threaded rod. With 2 ft plumbers wrench and a 2 ft extender the clutch popped off. Cheers and thanks.
Yep,I grew up with a buddy who his father was a machinist and he always showed us how to make our own tools when it was a special situation like this.I have my Sportsman 500 sitting outside ,all half disassembled and I wasn't certain of the exact thread size until seeing this video and now I am ready to tackle my engine R&R to finish it finally.To get the Primary Clutch off and get the used engine I got shipped in from out West somewhere!Thanks for the info in detail about the thread size and keep encouraging people to build their own stuff,just like the developer of this Quad did when they first built it!!!Keep on Wrenching brother!
For anyone who can't find the bolt, go to a fasteners place instead of a hardware store. You can also use the water method or place a smaller rod or socket extension in the clutch then use the 3/4" rod to remove it.
I too made my own tool. I used the proper-sized grade8 bolt and a separate length of steel rod as a 'pusher'. I would also suggest you use some grease on the threads and on the end where the pushing takes place. In this way, you are not wasting torque on friction as you tighten it.
This is why I love youtube,great ideas like this saves a guy a few bucks,bought a 3 ft piece of fine thread rod and made three pullers,they work slick.I will also work on the older john deere clutches too.thanks for sharing your great idea Mike.
curious to what that cost cause I bought the tool itself for 30 bucks.
The ACTUAL puller is $15.80 on Amazon. AND, they drop it off at your house the next day.
You can heat up the very end of the rod orange hot with an oxy/acetylene torch then quickly quench it in used motor oil or something and that should harden it a bit.
Thanks for the video!
Great idea I went to the local hardware store.
I paid 7.78 for the 3ft rod and the 3 bolts.
Lol I think in going to make 3 pullers and sell one for 10 dollars and make someone else happy.
Again thanks again man!
I couldn't find a 3/4 16 at any of my local hardware stores, but I did find one at fastenal. I had to buy a 10 pack of fine threaded nuts due to they were out of singles. Total cost was about $31.00. Still, it's much cheaper than buying the tool and having it shipped. All worked out well removing the clutch on my Polaris 2004.5 sportsman.
Thanks Mike, you-da-man:-)
Home depot, Lowes, tractor supply, neither one of them didn't have the rod so I had to go to Ace and paid $27.00 for the rod and $2.76 for each nut. Ace is expensive but they had it. Thanks for the video, very informative.
Good info. I found the all thread at a local bolt and fastener shop and used it on a polaris ranger 500 crew. The allthread doesn't need to be but 7 or 8" long. I didn't use an impact wrench, just a crescent wrench and a big screwdriver to keep it from rotating. I also didn't grind down the end, it wasn't enough pressure to mushroom that steel. The clutch came off easy with a couple kicks of the wrench. Thanks for the helpful video.
Thanks for this video.
I was about to order this tool from Polaris, but now watching this video I'm just gonna go get me a 3/4 rod and 2 nuts.
great video...thank you...love it when guys just get down to business...no stupid 2 min intro showing you sledding...or a friend jumping a car...with some soundtrack...haha..short...to the point and very informative...you sir have a new subscriber
Thank you for the video and the info! You just saved me a bundle of cash! I'm repairing my father-in-laws Sportsman 500 HO that his grandkids had messed up.
Dang it.. where was this recommendation 5 days ago TH-cam? Could have saved me 45 bucks..
I've actually put oil in the hole as well, when threading in a bolt it will hydraulically push the clutch off....and no mushrooming. Oil cannot be compressed...
Thanks. The actual info I needed in a sea of bs. Wish I would've saw this one first.
A lot of big truck spring tie bolts are that size. They usually have an allen head but you can cut it off and they are long enough too. So if you have a place that sells big truck parts you might check with them.
Put a ball bearing the diameter of the crank snout down the hole first then screw the bolt in. No damage and less friction on the bolt.
Your video was made in 2014. In the 2012 Polaris snowmobiles the clutch taper was changed. I don't know what size but they changed the clutch pullers as well
Just pulled my primary off my rzr 1000 and worked flawlessly 👍🏼
Alex Levchenko wat year is yours
2017 rzr 1000 XP
I found a 3/4x16 3" bolt at the hardware store. Grabbed a piece of 5/8" all-thread. Cut the all-thread to about 4" to fit inside the clutch, thread the bolt in to push on the all-thread. Less than $15.
My clutch was broken so the fixed sheave and crank starting spinning when I tried to take it off with the puller. The spider threads must have failed. Had to hold the fixed sheave with an 18"pipe wrench where the belt rides while I torqued on the puller.
Thanks a lot for the video. I made one and it works great. I ended up getting my parts from my local Fastenal. I tried Rural King, Tractor Supply, and Ace Hardware. All only had coarse thread. Also if you don't have a welder, you can use 5 min epoxy to seize the nuts on there for stubborn clutches.
3/4 in 16 threads/inch
You're welcome
thanks, what length?
@@cumbrianrider8903 9"
He could of started with that and saved everyone the hoopla
Worked perfect for my 2006 Polaris scrambler 500 4x4
Thanks for the video!!
+Andy Mack Glad it was helpful!
God bless you! and the internet. just the info I needed
It took some searching for the threads, but the tool worked great... saved some money thanks.
Great video!!! What length do you recommend cutting the threaded rod down to?
Great tip on a cheap tool,, Mr Fish.. Worked great
So I just followed the link to Amazon. I have a grade 8 bolt i used before to remove a clutch. I inserted a cut piece of rod into the clutch before i threaded the bolt into the end years ago. I remember it did come off but really damaged the piece of rod I put on the hole. I may try the socket method but I agree. If you bugger up the clutch threads, the crank threads or jam something in the hole that cannot be removed, guess what will happen? You will spend the next 1/2 day cutting the clutch off with a grinder and buying a new one worse a new clutch and new crankshaft. Some clutches are crazy tight. FYI if it doesn't pull off you may try some heat and then ice then heat. the expansion cycle will help loosen it up. I had one that would not budge i tapped with a hammer heated nothing. When I came out in the morning to continue the carnage, it had popped off under the tension I had in it . Go figure. So what am I saying? If I was doing this enough or thought I would be needing the tool in the future I would make a series of hardened rods the proper size and hardened bolts to screw into the clutch as a puller. Or just buy the right one.
A mild steel or hardened rod are still stronger than the aluminum threads. Either way, they will strip the clutch threads in the same situation
@@Mike_Wrecker .....hmm Im trying to recall some clutches in earlier machines. Mine were all aluminum with steel inserts in the center from what jumps out of my memory. Some may have been all aluminum. But correct mild steel would be harder than aluminum for sure and if something were to strip it wouldn't be the steel although it may bent and break theoretically. Any Ideas for removing the nut and spider on these?? Now that I have it off I have to stop the binding. So rust formed on the inner sheve shaft and the rust is stuck in the spider bearing. Ive tried everything to clear it out. needs to come apart... To the dealer Im afraid
Ok so Im crazy.. I have a 2006 Polaris FST 750 Weber Turbo. So I measured the depths of the hole and the depth to the shoulder in the clutch. I calculated the]at a 6" extension would go in the hole and bottom in the crank without bottoming in the clutch and binding. Then added a 1 1/2 " extension to this so say 7 1/2 ... connected 7 exactly. Then screwed my grade 8 3/4 x 16 x 4.5 inch in the hole. I was near the travel of my thread with 4 threads to spare (so more threads are better as mine only had 2" of thread) I tightened and it popped off. I am still going to get the correct puller, but it worked without any damage to anything. and this method is good in a pinch.Peace
awesome man I was thinking of doing the very same thing except you just saved me the time to figure out what thread and diameter bolt! thanks!
Tried it on my 2013 polaris side by side and it worked
Johnathan Gallegos what is the model of your Polaris size by size?
69cbr it's a 800 rzr two seater
Love the video, so far 4 stores dont have fine tread
Thanks Mike now to change my starter, and clutch/driven pulley cover...
clamp the rest of that thread all in a vise then you can thread the clutch on there till it bottoms out to take it apart
What you could do to harden the end would be to shave more threads off and then heet it up like cherry red then put it in burnt oil and harden it like they do on forged in fire or may be not just thout of haven’t tryed it tho just personale thout to throw out there
This video did help me get on the trail before Amazon though 😁
Actually found the clutch tool on Amazon for like $18.
Thanks man I made one too after watching you on youTube, clutch puller.
Great video, just made one worked like a charm, with added impact driver!
I got a clutch puller from Amazon for 19.00 free shipping.
So the end, did you use a grinder to get rid of the threads and make it a little skinner or how did you accomplish that?
Or just get a bolt with the same thread as this puller, put water inside of clutch center and wrap bolt in Teflon. Save a bit of money
13 bucks on Ebay free shipping:)
I would just buy the $40 tool. That metal is softer than the hardened steel the tool is made out if. And those threads are weak on the all thread. It will possibly work a few times amd then mess up the threads in the clutch. Ending up costing you more than trying to save $. Just my thoughts on this from past life experiences. I have made many a tool to do stuff. In the end after a couple successful jobs. It fails and causes more problems.
+Laby 70 Aluminum vs 1018 steel (all thread). I would be shocked if you would ever damage the full thread rod.
this video was really 8 minutes longer than it actually had to be..my gosh he loves hearing himself talk
I tried a M20x1.5 and it doesnt fit. M18x1.5 fits! Polaris Trailboss 330 Model 2012.
Hi guys ....Just a fyi. buy a bolt that is 3 to 4 in long get some teflon tape. Get out your grease gun. Remove clutch bolt, fill with grease put teflon tape on the short bolt you bought thread into hole and use hydraulics to remove clutch..Try it you'll like it
Except that takes longer and you end up with a clutch full of grease.
Great video . thanks for sharing such a brilliant idea , is this the the same threads as the other clutch and have you given any thought as to compressing the spring on the secondary clutch to get the sir clip out ? Seems like if anyone could , it would be you !,
what is a good length to cut the rod to? 16" ? what kind of threading fine ? or coarse?
Thanks for the info man!! Saved me some money.
just use a regular gear puller screw
Thanks for doing this!
Is the rod a soft metal equal to a grade 2?
I would see this video after I ordered the tool from the place I’m getting my parts for my Polaris General. lol thanks tho.
I looked in all the hardware shops here in the Dallas-Fort Worth area no tread for the steel rod that you have where else can I buy it
tried this yesterday on a 1997 xlt600 polaris snowmobile engine cannot get the rod to fit through hitting rubber garment at start of clutch hole, do i need to chamfer the end of the bolt to get past the rubber garment?
Seen crank balancers puller for auto have you seen
Thanks for your information bud
Great video Mike. I have a kawasaki mule 3010. Do you think it would work to pull my clutch off?
exactly the infor i was looking for- thanks
Thanks guy, did this today and appreciate your video, helped me alot!
I made this , but have yet to get that clutch off I'm afraid to pry in clutch to hold it still , have used impact ,tried tapping with hammer etc but it still hasn't broke free , it's 2007 sportsman 450
Harvey Hudspeth fill water in the hole first then try again
I finally got it , used lots of grease on the threads and it popped off , thanks for the video
How much is the diameter of the screw
Won't work on 14 up sportsman 570.. need 7/16.20
Polaris rzr 900 2017?....yes or no
but will it work on the secondary clutch.....
you rock!!! thank you for the great pointer
Why not use a grade 8 bolt and a grade 8 pusher ? Also you may want to quantify your video title to include which model of Polaris you have used this workaround tool on. I’m fairly certain not all models use the same clutch puller tool.
Does it work for 2019 Polaris Ranger XP 1000? And how long does the rod need to be?
Bright Mike,
Would you please tell me if it's working on RZR 570 2012 clutch??? I'm looking to make my own one... :-) Regards from Quebec.... !!!
Wouldn't the bolt that holds the clutch on would show you the thread size. take it somewhere and match it up right?
+The Three Wheeler Cowboy No. That bolt holds the clutch onto the shaft. It needs a larger "bolt" to push it off.
Or save more money by using the water method. I have used it multiple times and it is easier on the crank. Look it up it is worth a Google.
Can anyone tell me how long the bolt has to be after you cut it
Go on Amazon there about the same price
I'm working on a 1995 300 Polaris would just be the same thread
Will it work on a 18 570 trying to change the seals behind the clutch
i have a broken clutch bolt on a 2015 XP1000. I estimate there is about 1" of the bolt still in the crank. any suggestion on how to remove clutch if these ideas dont work???
+Tony Diaz Even with a broken clutch bolt, this should be able to get the clutch off. To get the bolt out... try a GOOD QUALITY screw extractor.
would this work for a 2006 polaris fusion snowmobile? Thanks
Could you tell me the conversion to mm of the thread? I am getting confused. 3/4-16 tells me that it is a 20mm bolt with a thread hight of 2.5mm!? But the thread doesnt look like 2.5mm. More like 1.75, 1.5 or 1.25...Any idea in Metric???
there is no conversion......
Its either standard OR metric. Plain and simple
why not just 1 nut and weld it to the rod as you have spare rod anyway
Will this work for secondary
Honda odyssey fl350 clutch as well
Thank you I'll try it.👍
What "Year, Make, and Model, was this Tool made for ??
+BWWGL9 Most of them. This was made for a 96' ATV, but it will work on almost all standard polaris clutches. Even snowmobile
9 minutes of video , when there is about 1 minute of info
How long? Where did you buy it at?
Pretty uncommon fine thread size available unless online.
I have a good local farm store that sells hardware. A 'nuts and bolts' store has what you need. This a standard UNF thread.
Big thanks again your awesome!
Will this work for a 2014 rzr 1000
dam your smart, thanks man
May God put you in paradise
LMAO so you figured out that is 3/4" by 16 threads per inch....but not what to do if it mushorroms the head??? easy take the two nuts off the back and thread it through. Great vid btw
Nice job..
finally got it off!!!
How long do I need to cut the rod ?
+Robbie Harris About 1ft (30cm or so). Doesn't have to be exact
Worked like a charm, thanx. Now to take the motor apart and replace the water/oil pump shaft
This is what you tube is all about.
this was my 1st time pulling a clutch. I made this tool, and I made the tapered end too narrow and it damaged the threads inside the shaft. What now? I cant find a 13mm tap & die set anywhere local. only online. so what size is the threading? 13mm x what?