great to see you are enjoying your car after all the hard work. It is good to see you don't have a serious issue and can continue to enjoy the fruits of your labour with no stress.
John, when I rebuilt my Triumph Stag, I used Evan’s Coolant. It is more expensive, however its boiling point is high (>375F) , it is waterless, doesn’t build up the pressure like water based coolants. When I get my Jaguar put together, I plan on putting Evans in that. I am not affiliated with Evans, just like their product.
John a second comment is the temperature sensors typically work on resistance, if there is any increase in the resistance of the wiring between the probe and gauge it could change the reading. I know all your wiring was new, so there shouldn’t be a problem with any connections.
Hi John….now that you have found the prob…I:E the temp sensor will you be removing the pusher fan at the front?….ps thanks for your superb video’s….been a great help with my own recent purchase…1969 series 2 2+2…..Keith UK
Hi Keith, thanks for the video comments - I am going to keep the pusher fan. US summer temperatures can be really high, so I like the extra cooling capacity, and I am not worried about the power loss from the extra fan.
Hi John, do you know at what temperature your fans come on, as far as most posts on forums indicate is that on 85 degc they should come on and go off at around 70 degc. On my S1 3.8 the nominal temp is steady just past the 70 degc mark which I guess equates to the M on your gauge.
Yeah John, I just rebuilt (last year) my engine on my '65 e type and the fan comes on right around 70C. I also upgraded to an aluminum radiator and it seems to be better than the original. I don't have the car ready for the road yet to test it in a driven state. Stationary it doesn't overheat. Today is supposed to be 93 F in Ann Arbor so I'll let it run for a half hour or so and see how it does.
Hi, right now I have my fans on full time. Once I have more confidence with my engine temp being okay then I will switch to the using the temp setting to activate the cooling fans.
@@johncooper6950 I let it idle for 30 minutes yesterday and the garage was 91F. The water temp climbed to the tic mark between 70C and 110C which I think is 90C or 194F. Everything was stable and no boiling over. The rpm was right around 700 with a rev (by me) every few minutes. I think if the car had been moving the temp would have been much lower. At 700 rpm the water pump isn't pumping very much. I'm confident that I shouldn't have cooling problems when I get finally get the car on the road.
Hi Matt, if you mean my little Cooper heat cycle I do. I am on a bit of a trip right now so give me a day or so. There are more later videos on this topic where I learned quit a bit more related to my cooling
Hi Matt, I have found the information, and I have it as a PDF and PPT. Let me know how I can send it to you. If you take the PPT version you can easily modify it as needed. John
@@johncooper6950 Hi. Sorry for not responding I was away for a bit. Do you have a work email I can email you and you are able to send it to me. If not I can send you my email address. Thank you, Matt
@@johncooper6950 hi. Sorry for the late response. I was out for a bit. If you have a work email address you can send me, that would be great and I will email you. If not I can send you my email address.
Some people have shared comments about Aluminium radiators versus Copper and brass radiators. I found a nice article from JEGS about the plus/minus of each type: www.jegs.com/tech-articles/copper-vs-aluminum-radiators-which-one-should-you-choose/
First thing is that infrared guns don’t give accurate temperatures on shiny surfaces, it’s because of emmisivity, so take your temperature on the black hoses in and out of the radiator. That said, 80 degrees out of the engine is very normal for these engines and it looks like your radiator is doing its job. Every gauge and sender will give you a slightly varied reading, as it’s based on resistance and voltage, which both fluctuate with each device, heat and RPM. Also be careful not to run the engine without a thermostat, thermostats block the bypass once the engine is warm, if the bypass is left open when not using a thermostat or using the wrong one, much of your coolant will bypass the radiator and go thru the water pump. To me, your engine is running normal with no concerns of overheating. Remember 50/50 coolant boils at 100 degrees Celsius, with a 4 psi pressure cap your boiling point is over 110. At 80 degrees, you are very safe!
Hi Ehab, I like the comment on the infrared thermometer gun temperature measurement being taken on the black hose. I will take a look at that. The thermostat bypass on my car is permanently open and feeds directly into the radiator next to the top hose connection. In the video you can see the bypass hose connected to the radiator - it is where I took the top hose measurement.
Ok, I see what you are saying. You are referring to the hose that goes back to the water pump from the thermostat housing. While the thermostat is closed the water continues to circulate through the engine.
@@EhabSahawneh Hi Ehab, I have followed up on this and I will make a short video to highlight the points you were making. Measuring the temperature on the black hoses does make it easier to get s stable reading. Thank you so much for the comments. They were incredibly useful, and I learned several new things from them.
great to see you are enjoying your car after all the hard work. It is good to see you don't have a serious issue and can continue to enjoy the fruits of your labour with no stress.
John, when I rebuilt my Triumph Stag, I used Evan’s Coolant. It is more expensive, however its boiling point is high (>375F) , it is waterless, doesn’t build up the pressure like water based coolants. When I get my Jaguar put together, I plan on putting Evans in that. I am not affiliated with Evans, just like their product.
John a second comment is the temperature sensors typically work on resistance, if there is any increase in the resistance of the wiring between the probe and gauge it could change the reading. I know all your wiring was new, so there shouldn’t be a problem with any connections.
Hi John….now that you have found the prob…I:E the temp sensor will you be removing the pusher fan at the front?….ps thanks for your superb video’s….been a great help with my own recent purchase…1969 series 2 2+2…..Keith UK
Hi Keith, thanks for the video comments - I am going to keep the pusher fan. US summer temperatures can be really high, so I like the extra cooling capacity, and I am not worried about the power loss from the extra fan.
Hi John, do you know at what temperature your fans come on, as far as most posts on forums indicate is that on 85 degc they should come on and go off at around 70 degc. On my S1 3.8 the nominal temp is steady just past the 70 degc mark which I guess equates to the M on your gauge.
Yeah John, I just rebuilt (last year) my engine on my '65 e type and the fan comes on right around 70C. I also upgraded to an aluminum radiator and it seems to be better than the original. I don't have the car ready for the road yet to test it in a driven state. Stationary it doesn't overheat. Today is supposed to be 93 F in Ann Arbor so I'll let it run for a half hour or so and see how it does.
@@stangraff800 Hi Stan, let me know how that goes.
Hi, right now I have my fans on full time. Once I have more confidence with my engine temp being okay then I will switch to the using the temp setting to activate the cooling fans.
@@johncooper6950 I let it idle for 30 minutes yesterday and the garage was 91F. The water temp climbed to the tic mark between 70C and 110C which I think is 90C or 194F. Everything was stable and no boiling over. The rpm was right around 700 with a rev (by me) every few minutes. I think if the car had been moving the temp would have been much lower. At 700 rpm the water pump isn't pumping very much. I'm confident that I shouldn't have cooling problems when I get finally get the car on the road.
@@stangraff800 Very cool!! Keep going Stan, its all worth it in the end!
Hi. Wondering if you have a picture or PDF of this paper. Thank you.
Hi Matt, if you mean my little Cooper heat cycle I do. I am on a bit of a trip right now so give me a day or so. There are more later videos on this topic where I learned quit a bit more related to my cooling
@johncooper6950 Okay. Thank you.
Hi Matt, I have found the information, and I have it as a PDF and PPT. Let me know how I can send it to you.
If you take the PPT version you can easily modify it as needed.
John
@@johncooper6950 Hi. Sorry for not responding I was away for a bit. Do you have a work email I can email you and you are able to send it to me. If not I can send you my email address. Thank you, Matt
@@johncooper6950 hi. Sorry for the late response. I was out for a bit. If you have a work email address you can send me, that would be great and I will email you. If not I can send you my email address.
Some people have shared comments about Aluminium radiators versus Copper and brass radiators. I found a nice article from JEGS about the plus/minus of each type:
www.jegs.com/tech-articles/copper-vs-aluminum-radiators-which-one-should-you-choose/
First thing is that infrared guns don’t give accurate temperatures on shiny surfaces, it’s because of emmisivity, so take your temperature on the black hoses in and out of the radiator. That said, 80 degrees out of the engine is very normal for these engines and it looks like your radiator is doing its job. Every gauge and sender will give you a slightly varied reading, as it’s based on resistance and voltage, which both fluctuate with each device, heat and RPM. Also be careful not to run the engine without a thermostat, thermostats block the bypass once the engine is warm, if the bypass is left open when not using a thermostat or using the wrong one, much of your coolant will bypass the radiator and go thru the water pump. To me, your engine is running normal with no concerns of overheating. Remember 50/50 coolant boils at 100 degrees Celsius, with a 4 psi pressure cap your boiling point is over 110. At 80 degrees, you are very safe!
Hi Ehab,
I like the comment on the infrared thermometer gun temperature measurement being taken on the black hose. I will take a look at that.
The thermostat bypass on my car is permanently open and feeds directly into the radiator next to the top hose connection. In the video you can see the bypass hose connected to the radiator - it is where I took the top hose measurement.
That hose is the air bleed to help bleed air when refilling coolant. The bypass goes back the the pump, look under the thermostat housing
@@EhabSahawneh Ok, interesting. I am going to double check this.
Ok, I see what you are saying. You are referring to the hose that goes back to the water pump from the thermostat housing. While the thermostat is closed the water continues to circulate through the engine.
@@EhabSahawneh Hi Ehab, I have followed up on this and I will make a short video to highlight the points you were making. Measuring the temperature on the black hoses does make it easier to get s stable reading.
Thank you so much for the comments. They were incredibly useful, and I learned several new things from them.