วีดีโอ

Hi John, Honestly I don't know if it should be in the front of the back! I tried to install it in the front, but my new lumbar straps had zero tension when installed that way, with no obvious way to add tension. In the end, I installed the straps behind the webbing in order to get as much tension in them as possible. It was as simple as that. The seats are as comfortable as you might expect a seat designed in the sixties with the straps installed this way. Hope this helps - John

Hi John - First off congratulations on getting the car, especially your Dads car. It took me about three years and 2500 hours to do the whole car from start to finish with an additional 800 hours from Nick. From a timeline perspective the videos have the date they were uploaded onto TH-cam. Typically, I would edit and post the video within one day of collecting the content. You could use this as a guide as most of the work was done at weekends and on average, I put in about 12-15 hours a week. The overall experience comes with highs and lows. Remember to enjoy the journey. The end result is worthwhile, you will learn a lot and don't be put off by maybe not knowing something or being anxious about a particular skill set. Just from memory rather than going back through all the videos 1) Disassemble the car to the shell I would say about 120 hrs to strip it, label, bag and store the parts. 2) Strip and scrape the shell to bare metal Well, a lot depends on if your car was coated with something like Ziebart (rust proofed). Mine was and it was a total nightmare. You have to get that off before it goes for media blasting. For instance, it took me over a week (40 hours) through Christmas break to just strip the hood inner surface of Ziebart, with a chisel, before it went for media blasting. Then, when it comes back from media blasting you get to see how much and where filler was used. Remembering that you continually work the bare metal through the build process to remove the old material, I would say that it took me and Nick about 80 hours to clean up the body panels enough to get started on body work once the car was stripped and back from the media blaster 3) Metal work and Primer This is a tough one - it took a duration 24 months - 104 wks with an estimated average of 8hrs hrs a weekend - so about 800 hrs from the bodywork back from the media blaster all the way to paint. 4) Assembly after paint This took 9 months duration - 36 weeks - On average I was doing 20 hrs a week at this point so about 720 hrs 5) Everything else I had my gearbox, rear differential and cylinder heads done by Coventry west. Nick did all the body work and at best I was his gofer/apprentice But I did everything else in terms of part and system restoration while Nick was doing the body So over 100 weeks at 15 hrs a week gives 1500 hrs. Totals: 1+2+3+4+5 120 + 80 + 800 + 720 + 1500 = 3220 Hours 800 hours for Nick 2420 Hours for myself So, be prepared for a journey of love, respect for what Jaguar did in a time of no digital CAD and CAE and a patient partner. Personally, I loved the journey, and I know I am how lucky I am to own a piece of amazing history In addition, I have 146 videos of it all - typically it took about 4 hrs to edit and post each video - 586 hrs. It is harder than you might think but very worthwhile doing it. I learned a lot during the process. I was totally useless at first but improved a little with time. I hope this helps. John

@@johncooper6950 So appreciate your breakdown and inspirational words John!! Thank You I absolutely love this car-having charished it over the last 44 years. (Dad bought it in 1980) Very helpful in putting together a plan, I'm now working through time and $$ numbers- trying to wrap my head around all of it right now:)) Thank you again and I'll keep you updated, John

Hi, I went through the same thought process with the same questions you are going through now. I even bought the one piece seal kit but decided I did not want to alter my crankshaft. I had previously rebuilt a V12 engine which also has the rope seal and I spoke at length with Dick at Coventry West in the USA about what to use. He recommended the rope seal and indicated that you do not need specialist tools to fit it. I went with that advice and my V2 engine worked without any oil leaks. I have maybe 1000 miles on my SII engine rebuild and I have no leaks on the engine including from the rope seal. Right now I have no regrets about using the rope seal. Hope this helps - John

@@johncooper6950 Yes, thanks, it does help confirm what I have read and suspected. I had questioned my brother who installed the rope seal years ago, I suspect he cut the seal without seating it properly and may have realized it, which explained why he never did put it back on the road after he had put the engine back in. For years, I tried to get him to sell it to me after my 61 caught fire and was totaled, guess he didn't want to go through pulling the engine and redoing the seal. Don't like the idea of machining the crank as well.

Hi Matt, if you mean my little Cooper heat cycle I do. I am on a bit of a trip right now so give me a day or so. There are more later videos on this topic where I learned quit a bit more related to my cooling

@johncooper6950 Okay. Thank you.

Hi Matt, I have found the information, and I have it as a PDF and PPT. Let me know how I can send it to you. If you take the PPT version you can easily modify it as needed. John

@@johncooper6950 Hi. Sorry for not responding I was away for a bit. Do you have a work email I can email you and you are able to send it to me. If not I can send you my email address. Thank you, Matt

@@johncooper6950 hi. Sorry for the late response. I was out for a bit. If you have a work email address you can send me, that would be great and I will email you. If not I can send you my email address.

Total hair dresser car - lol

I heard that sinister laugh at the end

@@brucemccartney5385 Thats my secret "thats so cool" sinister laugh!

Bruce - this video has 1.5k views in 9 days!!!! WTF - my Jag videos get 1.5k views after 2 years !! LOL

I think it was your sinister laugh at the end

The Matt Black Batman Vet - what a machine! I loved it. Last night was a fun night at Culvers, it's a good crowd with a wide range of vehicle types.

Bruce - take a look at this bad boy - I wonder who this could be? studio.th-cam.com/users/videoF8yjsSOs-sE/edit

@@johncooper6950 it would not open for me

Bruce - Try this link - th-cam.com/video/F8yjsSOs-sE/w-d-xo.html

Hi, getting it out is easier than putting it back in. For the removal I cut out the gear shift cover and removed the gear level as I knew I was going to be retrimming the interior. This makes life a lot easier. What I did learn when putting it back in is that it is best to disconnect the handbrake cable (or at least slacken it off). This allows you to have the handbrake pulled up to its highest setting. This is also helpful when taking the center console out. I did do a video related to the installation and the link is: th-cam.com/video/T056q6qQ9KQ/w-d-xo.html Hope this helps - John

Thunderbird 2 to the rescue, baby!

Hi Bruce, it was a real pleasure to meet you yesterday. Thank you so much for the compliments on the E Type SII. As you know, it is a labor of love, and I am very lucky to have the opportunity to restore and own the car. It is a significant piece of history. I really enjoyed the video documentation of the restoration, but it can be nerve racking as you bare your sole to the world, and some are not shy about letting you know where you screwed up on something. At the same time, I had some major help from endless numbers of people when I got stuck. I think more importantly, my goal with it was to show that if I can do it anyone can. It is a journey with major highs and lows along the way, but the result is worth it. I don't know many Americans who know about my home county in Yorkshire so that was fun to find out your experiences of visiting there. I am very proud to be a Yorkshireman. I loved your Corvette videos on the high-speed runs. Hopefully I will meet you again soon at Culvers. Stay safe. John

Hi Keith, thanks for the video comments - I am going to keep the pusher fan. US summer temperatures can be really high, so I like the extra cooling capacity, and I am not worried about the power loss from the extra fan.

Hi Oliver, thank you for the video comment. I got my wiring diagrams from MOSS Motors - part number is 31-0806. They were very useful as they break down each system, but I did find a few errors.

@@johncooper6950 SUPER, thank you

All worth it in the end. Car has been complete for nearly a year now!

Take a look at: m.th-cam.com/video/oikozdmwfyI/w-d-xo.html

@@johncooper6950 I bet John, fabulous project and from what I’ve seen so far a sympathetic and beautiful restoration, I’m enjoying your video log very much, just need to convince my wife we need one. 🥴

Hi, you will be getting slightly better airflow with those secondary butterfly valves removed. Therefore your engine might be running leaner than before. I would pull a couple of spark plugs to see how lean the mixture is. If it’s too lean the engine will run hot and then run on when turned off. If that does not work then I would try retarding the timing a little which would also allow the engine to run slightly cooler.

@@johncooper6950 Awesome! I'll look into those things. Thanks again!

@@johncooper6950 Hi John, I have been doing some research about the Stromberg 175. I might be mistaken but It looks like they are “non adjustable”. Is that correct? I see that terry jag has a conversion kit available if that is needed. Thanks 🙏

I would buy as much body panels from Monoque Metals as possible. For the rest , I would use all the suppliers you listed. The cost for each part and the availability can vary dramatically between the suppliers. No one supplier is better than the rest so it pays to shop around

@@johncooper6950 Thanks John

Hi JDL, Thanks for the video comment! :) For engine oil, I am absolutely not an expert. Rightly or wrongly, I use Valvoline VR1 SAE 20W-50 which is for Racing and Classic Cars. I change my oil at the end of the year just before the car is put to bed for the winter. I do this regardless of the low mileage I typically accumulate each year (less than 1000 miles normally).

@@johncooper6950 Thank you for the information. Much appreciated!

What a let down - maybe. It was 170 hp more than my 850cc British Leylan Mini I was driving at the same time as Carl bought his car!

@@johncooper6950 The Mini was a lot more fun cause it was feather light and tossable. A 79 T/A was 3700 - 3800 lbs. When I was in Highschool a buddy's dad had a 1970 with a built 455 Super Duty. It was around 450hp and 500lb torque. Even at 3800lbs that car was tossable. Those 79 301 Turbos were a joke. Hell the turbos weren't even intercooled and ran hot as hell.

Take a look at this video - it might help you - th-cam.com/video/kotRjev3OU0/w-d-xo.html You can also buy wiring harness diagrams from Moss. The information is broken down into each sub system rather than just one diagram for the whole vehicle. I hope that helps - John

Hi JDL, in my case I simply removed the two large butterfly plates from the secondary throttle housing. With the carbs off this is very easy to do. I left everything else attached (linkage system, springs, etc.). The car runs great with this set up

@@johncooper6950 Great! Thanks so much!

Hi Marc, no. There were no spacers when I disassembled the handbrake, and I did not fit any when I installed the handbrake assembly. I have since finished the car and everything works nicely from a handbrake perspective.

Those clamps are an absolute godsend. I hope they work for you.

Apparently, this thermostat design is only related to the Series II with Strombergs. Since I fitted the correct thermostat with full opening at 74 deg C my engine temps via the dashboard gauge have been very consistent. Cross referencing the upper and lower hose temperatures with the temperature gauge reading has given me confidence about my engine temperatures.

Hi Ehab, I like the comment on the infrared thermometer gun temperature measurement being taken on the black hose. I will take a look at that. The thermostat bypass on my car is permanently open and feeds directly into the radiator next to the top hose connection. In the video you can see the bypass hose connected to the radiator - it is where I took the top hose measurement.

That hose is the air bleed to help bleed air when refilling coolant. The bypass goes back the the pump, look under the thermostat housing

@@EhabSahawneh Ok, interesting. I am going to double check this.

Ok, I see what you are saying. You are referring to the hose that goes back to the water pump from the thermostat housing. While the thermostat is closed the water continues to circulate through the engine.

@@EhabSahawneh Hi Ehab, I have followed up on this and I will make a short video to highlight the points you were making. Measuring the temperature on the black hoses does make it easier to get s stable reading. Thank you so much for the comments. They were incredibly useful, and I learned several new things from them.

Yeah John, I just rebuilt (last year) my engine on my '65 e type and the fan comes on right around 70C. I also upgraded to an aluminum radiator and it seems to be better than the original. I don't have the car ready for the road yet to test it in a driven state. Stationary it doesn't overheat. Today is supposed to be 93 F in Ann Arbor so I'll let it run for a half hour or so and see how it does.

@@stangraff800 Hi Stan, let me know how that goes.

Hi, right now I have my fans on full time. Once I have more confidence with my engine temp being okay then I will switch to the using the temp setting to activate the cooling fans.

@@johncooper6950 I let it idle for 30 minutes yesterday and the garage was 91F. The water temp climbed to the tic mark between 70C and 110C which I think is 90C or 194F. Everything was stable and no boiling over. The rpm was right around 700 with a rev (by me) every few minutes. I think if the car had been moving the temp would have been much lower. At 700 rpm the water pump isn't pumping very much. I'm confident that I shouldn't have cooling problems when I get finally get the car on the road.

@@stangraff800 Very cool!! Keep going Stan, its all worth it in the end!

Thank you

Thank you

Hi Nial, thank you. The subframe was powder coated.

Hi Dave - I think if you send your set up first I can take a look and then create a direct copy of the same shot of my car..

@@johncooper6950 john, thanks for the reply. Unfortunately I not really sure the best way to send you the pic. Suggestions?

@@johncooper6950 Thanks John. Any suggestion on how I can get the pic to you?

Let me know when you read that response

Hi JDL, this took me a while to figure out. In the early Series II and Series I the starter relay is inside the car just below the passenger side glove box. On my Series II (71) and on the Series III (I believe) the starter motor relay is on the engine bay bulkhead just near the windscreen fluid bottle. Jaguar did not modify the main harness when they made this change but they kept the original starter motor relay wiring and added a separate harness that connects into the main harness to connect up to the new fire wall starter motor relay position. The red and white wire you are talking about, coming from inside the passenger foot well, is no longer needed in my car as it relates to the internal starter motor relay position and is made redundant by the new relay position (firewall). After I had everything wired in and had the car running for some time I eventual had the guts to cut the main wiring harness wire related to the internal relay position. The cutting of the redundant wiring was also done on my original wiring harness as fitted by the factory. Keeping the old wiring harness was a massive help in solving this. If needed, I can send you specific photos of how I ended up solving this. It did take me some time to resolve. Hope this helps - John

@@johncooper6950 Thanks very much for your response. That makes sense. After I sent you this I rewatched your video on the dashboard harness where you talk about that. The other thing I’m having trouble with is the brown wire from the ignition. It seems to go from the ignition switch to the same area behind the glove box (brown wire, red/white yellow/white) The wire schematic has it going to the binding post near the battery. I might be tracing it incorrectly or perhaps I’m missing something. Yes, any photos would be greatly appreciated! Thanks so much!

@@jdlwarnett I will try and take some video and pics without taking my car apart a bit later today. wiring my ignition switch also took me some time to figure out. I will put this on a short video and then send you the link.

@@johncooper6950 that would be fantastic! That you so much!

@@jdlwarnett Ok, lets see if this link works for you. The video is a bit messy as space is tight in the car (as you know) Ther are some photos at the end th-cam.com/video/POF7A-zgW2U/w-d-xo.html

Thank you

I do have to say that I would not fit a another one having gone through the suspension set and got the car on the road. The production setup process is robust.

Hi Arthur, I have never worked on a Series I so I cant help on this occasion. I can say that the sequence I used for the Series 2 works out really well.

Just this video

Hi Arthur - no you can remove the circlip type connector from each end of the linkage assembly.

Hi - for reassembly on the bench you simply have the castle nut tightened just finger tight to hold everything in place. Then when you install it in the car you set the bearing tightness. Take a look at this video - th-cam.com/video/lZPrDwkiiiA/w-d-xo.html The title is - Jaguar E Type Series II Rebuild - 2023-02-12 - Front Axel Assembly and Steering Rack This is a later video showing the installation in the car. In this video, I referenced a video from Richard Owen, with a link in the text and I followed his lead for the assembly. Richard does restoration for a living and has a very strong track record, he has helped me personally numerous times. Richard builds the front hub assembly on the vehicle and then sets the bearing preload. I personally still think you can build the front hub assembly on the bench, then install it on the car and set the bearing preload while on the car. You can choose the method you prefer. If in doubt, I suggest you follow Richards method. Ultimately you are limited on the preload to the castellated nut position and split pin assembly. I have a few miles on my car now and in the spring I am going to check the wheel bearing preloads now the car has settled a bit. I hope this helps - John

Thanks John, that’s great!

Thanks for the compliment, James. You were on the edge of your seat - you should have seen some of the other methods I tried!! LOL. Take your time with it. Don't be put off if you fail a few times trying to get the set up done correctly. It's all worth it in the end and my trunk lid works great with the new springs in place!! You might need to repaint (or touch up) the brackets after you assemble the springs. Getting the springs on was hard enough so I was happy to do the touch up afterwards instead of worrying about damaging bracket paint work as I did the assembly.

my suggestion is to go for it - take your time - take lots of photos of the old system.