Just a quick overview explaining how to diagnose an issue/scenario where the fuel pump isn't kicking on. Tools needed are basic tools, a set of T bits and a voltmeter.
Holy shit. You saved me a ton of headaches. I narrowed it down to a fuel issue. I had no idea that silly switch actually supplied power to the pump! Just FYI to everybody, BEWARE OF THE CHEAP EBAY SWITCHES! That is what I had replaced my old one with because it was cracked and this cheap ebay switch lasted 6 months. Luckily I saved my old working one and it fired right up!
Amazing video, thank you for the great explanation! I've been through the bad selector switch problem before, but now I have a slightly different issue. Both pumps and tanks were replaced in 2018. The front pump seems to have suddenly died, and the rear pump intermittently will not supply fuel at start up. I'm in the process of checking voltages. Unfortunately, I have a cap and 1500 lbs of tools and I do not have that nifty access door!
I thought if Inertia button is up it cuts off the fuel ?? How do you inspect the tank switch button do you jumper it or just continuity? If jumper it what wires?
I have a 96 f150 duel tanks. I got a new pump and tank in the front. I almost have a full tank and I was using the back tank. I flipped the switch to the front tank and it fires up but quits after 5 seconds and then I switch to the back tank. No problem with the back tank. But when I don't drive it till the next morning flipped the switch to the front and fires right up. I can get half way down the Rd before it cuts out. I was told that when the relay get warm it will shut the pump off. I don't get it Any ideas
Sounds like the front tanks’ pump is slowly going out So at that point, while cool it will drive a short distance, and as the pump warms up it just quits working until it cools Sorry for the luck bud! *I limped a truck home 50mi with that method, because I was a broke guy that couldnt afford 200+ dollars for a tow lol
Just changed the front pump, truck still won’t start, put it on back tank and it starts but won’t drive in D not getting enough fuel, 1994 f-250 any advice ?
My problem is when I am driving down the road or when there is a load on the truck is hesitates and sputters. I have changed the fuel filter, sea-foamEd the intake, taken the throttle body off and change the gasket, spark plug and wires and also rotor and distributer cap. Not sure what else I can do.
Put gauge on Schrader valve, if u have 25lbs or very close or ,more with engine running, your pump is good,good regulator should hold 25ish lbs for 20 sec to aprox 2mins. If u disconnect return line and attach vinyl clear tube u can fill a gas can or drain tank with engine running. Over 25ish lbs goes to return line and back into tank., seal carefully return line or it will dump gas all over ,maybe catch fire. I used vinyl tube from hardware store to fit over chrome (stainless)at connector, had to be carefull to keep seal, put a clamp on it, or get old connector at junk yard ,cut it and adapt line into gas can, common sense!., fuel pump should have ck valve yo hold pressure at regulator (This is so injectors have pressure for to start up), this pressure will also bleed of with time.
I'm having same problem if got 45psi on rear tank front pump doesn't work but doesn't overflow iv replaced everything 3x still same issue help me please
Very confusing, push inertia button down is correct for power to pump. If button is up ,no power to pump. Always go your video to avoid such confusion. Inertia switch area on panel has curve in plastic so u can push it down without removing panel. Push down to have power, if it is popped up ,push it down. If it is popped up it will easily push down .
You are correct Mr Smith. This is a HUGE error in the video. The Switch is spring loaded in the up position when it is tripped. Normal operating position for the switch is in the DOWN position. if Tripped it unloads to the UP position.
question is we check all that even put different pump on but still no power switch check still nothing when turn key relay all work but no power going to pump
Good video, the fuel pump in the front tank on my '95 F150 quit working the other day, and the back tank feeds slowly, so it sputters going uphill. I'm going to check the wiring to the selector switch on the dash...
Justin Belshe I have same problem on my f150 back fuel pump start but wen I start driving start like losing power.and die but in park they stay on idle but I don’t use any more I use that front only but that gas gauge don’t work only wen is off they read wen I start go down to empty any idea wat is ???
hey man i am trying to get on of these running its been sitting for years it wil crank over like she is fresh off the show room floor but i aint getting no fuel the relay and fuses are fine and it has fresh gas in there .i know its fuel related cause i shoot some break cleaner in there and it fires up off that but it will die any tips
What are the odds the fillter is gummed up? Start troubleshooting: -Does the fuel pump operate? -If yes, is the fuel moving forward. If not, then you’ve narrowed it down.
@@TheFSeries im going to check that today cause i checked the strater valve and lots of nasty old smelly gas came out and now when i prime the pump over and over i get no fuel to the lines and i have check the inertia switch and i only have 1 tank
ironic. i have to use just the front one also because my rear she doesn't work. if the truck is running ill switch to the rear tank and the gas gauge will go down to E (hardly any gas in the rear tank) but it doesnt shut off i guess its still pulling gas from the front one? im not sure, i bought the truck and previous owner says the rear tank doesnt work
Same here. Front is all good and running daily but I replaced the rear tank and pump and the selector. Rear pump activated and the gauge shows correct level but not start.
It's on the passenger side under the glove box ,,, called the kick panel because your shoes might hit it on the way out. remove a couple of screws and it will pop off.
i have a 1992 f150 4x4 4.9 i just got it and it has sat for 5 years ran fine when he parked it now it wont start i hit it with some go juce it starts and right back off i hear a click in the tank but i dont hear pump run think it can go bad just setting
Another issue I've seen with gassr vehicles sitting, and having electric fuel pumps is the strainer on the main bottom of the pump gets brittle/breaks down and ends up INSIDE the pump, ruining it.
Is there anyone out the that would be kind enough and has the correct knowledge mechanically? All I need to know iswhat position should the inertia switch that is underneath the passenger floorboard on a 1990 Ford F-150 XLT half ton pickup 4*4 King cab??
Computer (drivers for the fuel is blown) can pull cpu out open up and see if anything is blow, could be wiring (broken/short,corrosion) try jiggling the wires for that fuse or unhing the whole box n inspect, or human error you didn't have key on (possible yet not likely) or battery charged up (unlikely)
You said if the button on the inertia switch is up it's good if it's down it's bad everything else I'm seeing people are saying if it's down it's where you get your connection if it's up then it means bad so who in the hell is right which is power to it up or down other people are saying down is getting power up no power so which is it are you wrong or are they wrong who the hell is wrong
I can hear the pump prime or sound like it's priming I replaced the tank and the pump but not the sending unit because it was working but now it stays at the fuel mark. I only put 2 or three gallons in the tank
Check for 12v on the wires coming from the fuse box. If you have 12v before the selector switch but not after, the selector switch is likely the issue.
I believe I have, wiring diagram says red/yellow wire from inertia switch so actually let me back track that...one other thing. Zero fuel pressure but that makes sense right?
It take a real idiot to cut the bed floor to access the full pump! It takes more work to cut it than to drop the tank or remove the bed and do it the proper way!
B******* it's a hell of a lot easier to cut a hole in the bed than do anything else taking the bed off or dropping the tank I took an angle grinder and had a hole cut right above the fuel pump in less than 10 minutes try to drop the tank or take the bed off in less than 10 minutes evidently you haven't done it before
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Dude, thank you! I tried the inertia switch and now my truck starts! Thanks!
lucky ass i did do that and bridged it power is flowing thru it but no power to pumps what so ever odd thing is it’s both pumps not just one
You are 1st to say what I've been lookin for is how much voltage you should see .
12 V
Holy shit. You saved me a ton of headaches. I narrowed it down to a fuel issue. I had no idea that silly switch actually supplied power to the pump! Just FYI to everybody, BEWARE OF THE CHEAP EBAY SWITCHES! That is what I had replaced my old one with because it was cracked and this cheap ebay switch lasted 6 months. Luckily I saved my old working one and it fired right up!
Glad to help!
Damn straight who would’ve guessed that switch makes it so ur truck run 😂
Thanks I dropped one tank and replaced the pump.and it still didn't work...but thanks to you boss that was my problem... gracias
Thank you mate, this saved me a lot of time.
Thank you so much man you help me
did the gauge move when you flipped the switch? or the switch killed everything completely?
Good to the point video! Thanks!
you said the inertia switch should be UP for the truck to run. shouldn't it be DOWN for it to run?
It needs to be down
inerita switch should be "Down" to run - "Up" to Off... Correct?
Yep just had this issues. It will pop up after an accident so you need to press it down to run. He probably just misspoke
Why no mention of the fuel pump relay?
Thank You for the update!
Amazing video, thank you for the great explanation! I've been through the bad selector switch problem before, but now I have a slightly different issue. Both pumps and tanks were replaced in 2018. The front pump seems to have suddenly died, and the rear pump intermittently will not supply fuel at start up. I'm in the process of checking voltages. Unfortunately, I have a cap and 1500 lbs of tools and I do not have that nifty access door!
I thought if Inertia button is up it cuts off the fuel ?? How do you inspect the tank switch button do you jumper it or just continuity? If jumper it what wires?
Great Video
I have a 96 f150 duel tanks.
I got a new pump and tank in the front. I almost have a full tank and I was using the back tank. I flipped the switch to the front tank and it fires up but quits after 5 seconds and then I switch to the back tank. No problem with the back tank. But when I don't drive it till the next morning flipped the switch to the front and fires right up. I can get half way down the Rd before it cuts out. I was told that when the relay get warm it will shut the pump off.
I don't get it
Any ideas
Sounds like the front tanks’ pump is slowly going out
So at that point, while cool it will drive a short distance, and as the pump warms up it just quits working until it cools
Sorry for the luck bud!
*I limped a truck home 50mi with that method, because I was a broke guy that couldnt afford 200+ dollars for a tow lol
Lucky I had extra gas in my back tank
thank you for your video, i have a 92 flareside that wont start,
Do the ecm ground the inertia switch and or the dual tank switch?
Just changed the front pump, truck still won’t start, put it on back tank and it starts but won’t drive in D not getting enough fuel, 1994 f-250 any advice ?
My problem is when I am driving down the road or when there is a load on the truck is hesitates and sputters. I have changed the fuel filter, sea-foamEd the intake, taken the throttle body off and change the gasket, spark plug and wires and also rotor and distributer cap. Not sure what else I can do.
Did u figure out what the problem was im having same problem bout 2 burn her down
Pumps could be weak .
Did you check the fuel pressure ?
Took a look at your pressure regulator?
Put gauge on Schrader valve, if u have 25lbs or very close or ,more with engine running, your pump is good,good regulator should hold 25ish lbs for 20 sec to aprox 2mins. If u disconnect return line and attach vinyl clear tube u can fill a gas can or drain tank with engine running. Over 25ish lbs goes to return line and back into tank., seal carefully return line or it will dump gas all over ,maybe catch fire. I used vinyl tube from hardware store to fit over chrome (stainless)at connector, had to be carefull to keep seal, put a clamp on it, or get old connector at junk yard ,cut it and adapt line into gas can, common sense!., fuel pump should have ck valve yo hold pressure at regulator (This is so injectors have pressure for to start up), this pressure will also bleed of with time.
I'm having same problem if got 45psi on rear tank front pump doesn't work but doesn't overflow iv replaced everything 3x still same issue help me please
Awsome Video Sir
Good job !
Very confusing, push inertia button down is correct for power to pump. If button is up ,no power to pump. Always go your video to avoid such confusion. Inertia switch area on panel has curve in plastic so u can push it down without removing panel. Push down to have power, if it is popped up ,push it down. If it is popped up it will easily push down .
You are correct Mr Smith. This is a HUGE error in the video. The Switch is spring loaded in the up position when it is tripped. Normal operating position for the switch is in the DOWN position. if Tripped it unloads to the UP position.
yoo the fuel pump shut off switch thats in the passenger side is down what does that mean ? is the fuel off??
How did you fix the loose wires?
question is we check all that even put different pump on but still no power switch check still nothing when turn key relay all work but no power going to pump
Wrong. The inertia fuse/button should be pushed in. Not blown or in the up position.
Excellent video thanks.R n.
Good video, the fuel pump in the front tank on my '95 F150 quit working the other day, and the back tank feeds slowly, so it sputters going uphill. I'm going to check the wiring to the selector switch on the dash...
Justin Belshe I have same problem on my f150 back fuel pump start but wen I start driving start like losing power.and die but in park they stay on idle but I don’t use any more I use that front only but that gas gauge don’t work only wen is off they read wen I start go down to empty any idea wat is ???
Figure it out?
So I have power at relay relay is good but no power to inertia switch, fuel tank selector switch, injectors or fuel pump what could it be
Check the items in order; once you find no power, go back to the last thing in the chain and inspect it.
Sounds like a wire may be broken
Can you run a hot wire to the switch that turns the tanks and it work but it won’t work once you take the hot wire off of it is the switch bad or good
Is there 12v already being supplied?
If so, the switch is bad.
However I had a switch to work; but the clip break and the wire slip off
There’s no power getting to the switch! He can run a hot wire and the pumps come on !
@@barbarajones2620 then you need to trace that wire to figure out what it going on.
What color is the wire in question?
Thank you
hey man i am trying to get on of these running its been sitting for years it wil crank over like she is fresh off the show room floor but i aint getting no fuel the relay and fuses are fine and it has fresh gas in there .i know its fuel related cause i shoot some break cleaner in there and it fires up off that but it will die any tips
What are the odds the fillter is gummed up?
Start troubleshooting:
-Does the fuel pump operate?
-If yes, is the fuel moving forward.
If not, then you’ve narrowed it down.
@@TheFSeries im going to check that today cause i checked the strater valve and lots of nasty old smelly gas came out and now when i prime the pump over and over i get no fuel to the lines and i have check the inertia switch and i only have 1 tank
@@TheFSeries so i dissconnected the line going from tank to fuel filter primed/tried to start it and got no gas what could this mean
Was helpfull
good stuff- thnx!
what if the pump is only working in the rear but not the front, is there separate power wires out of the switch for each pump?
Yea
Which wires go to the rear pump
ironic. i have to use just the front one also because my rear she doesn't work. if the truck is running ill switch to the rear tank and the gas gauge will go down to E (hardly any gas in the rear tank) but it doesnt shut off i guess its still pulling gas from the front one? im not sure, i bought the truck and previous owner says the rear tank doesnt work
Were u able to use it regularly with just the front tank working?
Same here. Front is all good and running daily but I replaced the rear tank and pump and the selector. Rear pump activated and the gauge shows correct level but not start.
I think your backwards on the inertia switch.
ps it only got one tank but has the switch for two have set front and not putting power to the pump
Thinking about cutting an access hole to the fuel pump....would it be about the same area for a 96 f250?
ben l please don't Its easier to pull the bed!
@@dodgeramsport01 I think pulling the tank is a pain in the ass , but easier than pulling the bed !
@@rickobrien4025 I myself think the bed is easily!
Relay in the system also.
Why I'm not getting fire through my coil
Great!
Can give me the dimensions for your cut out , front and rear tank?
My wires for my pump are all black. How did you get the colors?
Just the way it came
@@TheFSeries I figured the factory wires are all black for a foot or so back. So peal back more and it reveals the colors.
Where do I look to find the inertia fuel shutoff ford 1993 7.5 liter gas chassis used for Dutchman motor home?
It's on the passenger side under the glove box ,,, called the kick panel because your shoes might hit it on the way out. remove a couple of screws and it will pop off.
I have ford bronco 1987 and wen I open that key fuel pump stay on never stop any idea wat is that problem
I have this issue. I am on my third selector switch. Know why it would keep burning the switch out? 20A fuse is good.
Cheap Chinese crap
A short could cause a parasitic drain.
Is your 92 a standard cab?
Yes
what about the fuel pump driver module...
It is a factor; but a vast majority of the time it isn’t the Inertia Switch
i have a 1992 f150 4x4 4.9 i just got it and it has sat for 5 years ran fine when he parked it now it wont start i hit it with some go juce it starts and right back off i hear a click in the tank but i dont hear pump run think it can go bad just setting
did you find out the problem i to just got one on a trade thinking it just needed a fuel pump i replaced the pump and new relay still no start thanks
@@thomaswilliams1851 pumps was bad got a new tank and all 169$ @ A-one auto on line thats pump and all
@@jtsgarage2999 yeah found my problem to it was the tank selector switch
Another issue I've seen with gassr vehicles sitting, and having electric fuel pumps is the strainer on the main bottom of the pump gets brittle/breaks down and ends up INSIDE the pump, ruining it.
Is there anyone out the that would be kind enough and has the correct knowledge mechanically? All I need to know iswhat position should the inertia switch that is underneath the passenger floorboard on a 1990 Ford F-150 XLT half ton pickup 4*4 King cab??
I'm looking at the manual for my truck now, down is properly reset, up is disengaged.
if the switch has been tripped it will be in the up position. Normal operating position is in the DOWN position, the video is wrong a HUGE error
Don't you mean when the red button is out means no fuel push it in and you got fuel
I have no volts at the fuse, what could be the cause of that?
Computer (drivers for the fuel is blown) can pull cpu out open up and see if anything is blow, could be wiring (broken/short,corrosion) try jiggling the wires for that fuse or unhing the whole box n inspect, or human error you didn't have key on (possible yet not likely) or battery charged up (unlikely)
Human error voltmeter is bad or needs new batteries
You said if the button on the inertia switch is up it's good if it's down it's bad everything else I'm seeing people are saying if it's down it's where you get your connection if it's up then it means bad so who in the hell is right which is power to it up or down other people are saying down is getting power up no power so which is it are you wrong or are they wrong who the hell is wrong
I can hear the pump prime or sound like it's priming I replaced the tank and the pump but not the sending unit because it was working but now it stays at the fuel mark. I only put 2 or three gallons in the tank
Is it ON the Full mark or way past it?
If it's way past it, it means it isn't grounded good
@@TheFSeries way past I had to replace the plug to the pump literally burned up
Rear tank has been bypassed in fact it's gone
Mine did that exact same thing. The plug that goes on the pump was charred
My fuel pump prime sound stay on wen I open that key and they should stop at few seconds and my gas gauge stop working can someone help me
Hey man what if I'm getting 9.8V instead of 12v at the selector and also at the pumps
Check for 12v on the wires coming from the fuse box.
If you have 12v before the selector switch but not after, the selector switch is likely the issue.
I believe I have, wiring diagram says red/yellow wire from inertia switch so actually let me back track that...one other thing. Zero fuel pressure but that makes sense right?
If the pump hasn't turned on, then no fuel pressure.
Hey man so it'll get the 12V only when cranking. Just leaving the key on it drops to 9..no good right?
What color wire is power at pump
What is a “HHwight” electric line or cable? Lol
Brainfart....
Red button DOWN!!
It take a real idiot to cut the bed floor to access the full pump! It takes more work to cut it than to drop the tank or remove the bed and do it the proper way!
Glad it wasn't me, then.
It was done by the previous owner.
B******* it's a hell of a lot easier to cut a hole in the bed than do anything else taking the bed off or dropping the tank I took an angle grinder and had a hole cut right above the fuel pump in less than 10 minutes try to drop the tank or take the bed off in less than 10 minutes evidently you haven't done it before
Kaboom
I thought it was the opposite the red reset button