Chris Sharma goes Back to the Future on "Magie Blanche" (8b+) 1986

Just outside the town of Mouriès, France, in the small Alpilles Mountains, sits a legendary iconic route from the 1980s called, "Magie Blanche" (White Magic). This twenty-meter-high dead-vertical wall of 8b+ (5.14a) has little in common with the routes typically scaled by today's sport climbers. On October 16, the best among them took on the challenge. Here is the story of a truly unique encounter!
More infos about the climb and the interveiw of Chris Sharma on :
www.petzl.com/en/Sport/video/C...

[@moonti6820]

neat ! I really love the peaceful music here, it reminds me that climbing is kinda a way of meditating.

[@Notaserioushuman]

I love the juxtaposition between the narration and Sharma not breaking a sweat. haha.

[@constantinosschinas4503]

Beautiful route on this extraordinary rock formation.

[@rushthezeppelin]

Holy crap that looks like such an awesome ridgeline for climbing and hiking.

[@verticalnetwork1]

France is so beautiful for climbing! Great Video!

[@PetzlSportVideos]

Yes it is ;)

[@JasonBjarnson]

awesome job! love this video!

[@MrFirlan]

So great to see the footage after reading the article. Great project and great line !

[@rfcdgaf]

Would love to know the geology behind the rock

[@elfriederich]

"How your knot?" - "It's good!" 🤣👌

[@akinaridate9233]

Beautiful route

[@felixvalentini816]

i totally agree i love the old school climbs 😉💪

[@albertosanchez7077]

Felix Valentini what’s so different about them?

[@pleasedontuse4008]

@@albertosanchez7077 old school climbs are usually more technical and about balance. New school climbing is very power endurance centered. Think big moves on steep overhanging walls. Also Dynos are more of a new school thing

[@fantomas539]

Mouriés is a rare cliff or is not climb to the listing of the way but for the pleasure of climbing.

[@santiagocyckowski5732]

I need the track between 2:07 and 2:18 sick beats, also incredible route and video, i hope i get my hands on that cliff someday.

[@joytubemate]

alguien sabe que cuerda es la que usa en el video cris?

[@ServiceAceStud]

does anyone know the song and title near the end?

[@aldorossi5250]

Mark Le Menestrel !!!

[@cashmab]

What makes a route "old school" vs "new school" in terms of climbing style?

[@torwald5877]

Old school style : usually a slab or vertical inclination, very technical, with bad holds and often a tricky beta. Mouriès or Buoux are typical old school cliffs.
"New school" : all the overhanging endurance and power endurance route with often big holds and big moves. Oliana and most of the spanish cliffs, Kalymnos, Saint-Léger...and so many others are "new school" cliffs

[@rocky90091]

@@torwald5877 thank you for this

[@stephenr80]

in my country spain old school often means - in addition to the things mentioned - long spaces between bolts

[@speleoclubbejaiadessportse5230]

bravo

[@FreeTemO]

0:00 - 0:53 song name please

[@briancolella6045]

05:57
02:21
04:54

[@TennisEuphoria]

Ondra onsight

[@MakoTheFrog]

looks like crimp hell

[@gsmecanica]

Loved the video. But I think Petzl should really encourage their climbers to wear helmets... you know, just to give the example to other.

[@SuperPointlessFilms]

The risk of rock fall on this rock is relatively minimal. And even petzls ridiculously light one can still throw someone like sharma off balance. Although the belayer should definitely wear one.

[@Johnguy93]

+Harry Sutcliffe You can still flip backwards and hit your head.

[@gsmecanica]

Oh pls petzl helmet is as light as the blue propaganda silly thing he is wearing... just admit it, it does not look cool enough. Shame on Petzl...

[@isaacgillman1200]

+Gonzalo Soto Sport climbing with a helmet on is pretty cumbersome, especially on a technical and balancy route like this one. The risk of falling rock is pretty minimal on a climb like this one too because it's smooth and vertical and I'm sure they spent time looking over the route before they tried any real attempts on it.

[@gsmecanica]

Pls I've done 5.13 routes always with helmet, (petzl btw) it is all about looking cool for the camera in this case. I agree that the route looks clean but they should be giving the example to other climbers!!

[@MonoChromeo]

Why's Chris on a top rope? I bet he just onsighted it and did the rest for show.

[@karolpadiasek5461]

Because he's a new school climber, plus those old routes are very often underrated due to climbers' mentality back then ("I'll rate it low so no one will tell me I'm weak and thought it was that hard") - very likely he did not onsight it.