Thank you for doing this. My father was a woodworker, but passed before he could give me a lot of his lessons. I’ve taken up the hobby, and this helped me understand how I can keep my fingers safe while making picture frames.
A good reminder about closing the fence gap. Am new to using a router table, and had a few cases of the edge not quite clearing the outfeed side of the fence. Closing the gap helped get a cleaner cut without the leading edge hanging up. Thanks!
Glad you found it useful! And not at all 😂 I always have safety glasses on anyways. The one thing I could see it being useful for is increasing the suction from your dust collector because it narrows that opening for chips
Nice work. I have the same router table and I always use the feather boards that come with it whenever possible. They really help to control and secure the work piece. Have you considered using them?
Absolutely! Highly recommend using them, especially if doing repeated work, I have used them a lot, especially when building the bed frame. Thanks for the contribution!
I brought my dad’s old craftsman router home with me when I was selling his house. I put it under my router table. I was busy doing something at the table and the damned thing turned on by itself. I unplugged it, detached it and examined it. There was a wire that was exposed and my bumping the table jiggled the wires I guess? Needless to say, it’s no longer in my workshop. UNPLUG people.
Great video, and very timely. Just bought myself this exact combination a month ago, your tips are sure to be helpful. Did you build the table/cart you were talking about? If so, I'd be interested to see what you came up with. There's another TH-camr who built a really nice one with a couple of drawers. Interested to see what others are doing. Thanks!
Hey Bruce! Thanks for the compliment! I’m glad you found it helpful! I haven’t yet! I was able to salvage a flat surface elsewhere so that hasn’t been at the top of my list. Do you have the link to the other TH-camr? I’d love to see what they did!
@@NorthwestCraftsman Here is the link: th-cam.com/video/CEnXJsHlaek/w-d-xo.html He offers a plan, which I purchased. It's a good starting point, I'll say that. If nothing else, it's a chance to learn about my router, table saw, and measuring 😊
You caught me with a missing link! Thanks for catching that! I've added it and my other PPE to the video description and below is the link to the push blocks! If you're looking for something more sophisticated, you can get the GRR-Ripper. I plan to upgrade to this push block at some point. Push Block Set: amzn.to/367rNaI GRR-Ripper Push Block: amzn.to/3reO9PG
I have my router plugged into a foot switch, which is plugged into a power bar. The foot switch must be held down constantly for the router to run, so that’s almost like unplugging the router. The foot switch is plugged into a power bar with a switch, so instead of unplugging the router to change bits I turn the power bar off and do not touch the foot switch. Double protection from inadvertent start-ups.
I just watched your video on the Bosch router and table and got mine hooked up. Very happy with the results! But I still need a vacuum for the back. Do you have any vacuum recommendations I could hook up to this that won't break the bank? Or is that something you wouldn't cheap out on? Thanks so much!
Glad you found this helpful! This is the shop vac I still use, or very nearly it. Though, if you go into your local home store, you should be able to find one that works great. Honestly, shop vacs are pretty robust and I wouldn’t break the bank on it. If you can wait until Black Friday or another summer sale, you can probably get one for under $100. Shop Vac amzn.to/3QyNfMS Something that is well worth the money is a cyclone. I’ve only had to change my vacuum bags twice in the 5 years I’ve been woodworking and it keeps your vacuum’s performance high. Cyclone amzn.to/3WoJkWQ Dust Bin amzn.to/4a8LzRa Hose amzn.to/4a9nmKK
Still have them but don’t use them unless there are a large number of the same cut I’m making. They aren’t necessary to operate the tool safely so I left them out for this video.
Any thoughts on router table height? I understand the height of the work surface would be a personal preference but are there any guidelines you're aware of? I noticed in your video the router was up pretty high but I don't know if that was for filming or personal comfort. Thanks
Great question Eddie! There is actually a good amount of writing on this topic and much debate. Generally what I’ve heard is that for work requiring strength, the table top should be about at your wrists when you stand up straight with your arms at your side. If you’re doing more detailed work that doesn’t require strength or leverage, closer to your elbows (so your arms are at a 90 when working) is more appropriate. This varies greatly depending on who you are but the goal is for the work to be ergonomic. Not requiring you to lean over the table all the time but also not having to push in odd ways because your table is too tall. I know this was very vague, but hopefully it helped some 😊
thanks for the video and the tips. I find it very frustrating to change the router bits; I do it from underneath the router table, but there is just a very small space to use hands; any tip on how to do it? thanks!
Hey Laura! I can understand how that’d be frustrating. I do a combination of under and over. First, I adjust the router as high up as it can go with the quick adjust button (not need to use the fine adjustment). Then, there is a small plastic window that is removable on the fixed base that came in the 1617EVSPK combination pack. I remove this window and then, under the bench, holding the the spindle wrench (smaller of the two) in my right hand, I position it through this window to hold the spindle in place. With my left hand and the collet nut wrench (larger of the two), I come in from the top (it will have to be at an angle), loosening the collet nut until I can finish with my hand. I’ve also been told that Bosch has a set of wrenches that have a double 90° jog which allows the user to use both wrenches from the top. If that was too confusing, I think this is a prime example of a picture being worth 1000 words, shoot me an email (should be in the about page on the channel) and I can send some photos your way 😊 Happy woodworking! Josh Northwest Craftsman
@@NorthwestCraftsman Hi Josh, EXCELLENT tip!!! and your explanation was just perfect!! I just followed them, and it was so much easier! Thank you very much!!
Would you be able to find out what the size&thread is on the starter pin I have the mdf cabinet model but I think they both use the same plate and I'm missing that but shipping from bosch is crazy so I just want to get a bolt from the hardware store. Thanks
I don’t have a thread gauge in my shop to check mine but from some quick searching online, it looks like Bosch uses a 1/4”-28 thread on the starter pin. Not sure how easy it is for you to buy one and try it out but that’d be my go at it.
1/4"-28 is the correct size for the Bosch plate. The 28 indicates fine thread. I used a 1-1/2" bolt. Cut off the bolt head and about 1/4" of thread with a hacksaw. When installed, this leaves about 1" of the smooth, unthreaded portion of the bolt exposed. Before cutting the thread end, screw on a nut. Then after you cut, unscrewing the nut will clean up any threads that get messed up by the saw. File the sharp edges smooth. Carefully saw a slot across the top to allow tightening/removal with a screwdriver. If you have to use a bolt that is threaded its entire length, a 1" nylon spacer can be slipped over the bolt to prevent the threads from marring your work piece.
I did a climb cut without using push blocks, almost lost my finger! Hurts pretty bad, please work safe guys, becouse once it goes wrong, the damage can be irreversible (I'm also a guitar player)...
I appreciate the compliment but I have actually not served. I’m just surrounded by friends and family that have so I’ve probably picked up some mannerisms. Glad you liked the video!
One thing worth mentioning is DON'T use gloves when using a router table, the fabric can get caught and pulling your hand in causing even more damage. Also worth noting, watching this video and not hitting the like button is also not best practices.
Dust collection doesn't necessarily capture all the fine particles which are what you should be concerned about for your lungs. Mask or respirator should be worn regardless and it's reckless of you to suggest otherwise.
Well shoot, that’s not what I was going for at all. PPE is always my first safety tip because it’s one of the best things someone can do to prevent unnecessary injury in the shop. By no means is that intended to convey immunity from injury afterwards. I used to say it more but in the shop you can go from zero to dead in less than a few seconds, so pay attention. Maybe need to convey that more.
Thank you for doing this. My father was a woodworker, but passed before he could give me a lot of his lessons. I’ve taken up the hobby, and this helped me understand how I can keep my fingers safe while making picture frames.
I’m sorry to hear about your dad but am glad I could help you work more safely.
Happy woodworking!
Josh
A good reminder about closing the fence gap. Am new to using a router table, and had a few cases of the edge not quite clearing the outfeed side of the fence. Closing the gap helped get a cleaner cut without the leading edge hanging up. Thanks!
Glad you found it useful! I’m always learning new safety tips as well.
Clear and concise. Thank you
great video, i have the same combo question do you find the plastic guard that goes over the bit useful? thanks for sharing video
Glad you found it useful! And not at all 😂 I always have safety glasses on anyways. The one thing I could see it being useful for is increasing the suction from your dust collector because it narrows that opening for chips
The plastic guard that goes over the bit is VERY USEFUL! Similar to a blade guard, it keeps your fingers away from where they shouldn't be!
Excellent, thank you for showing this
Glad you found it helpful Peter!
Awesome video for us newbs. Thank you for posting/
Glad you found it helpful!
Nice work. I have the same router table and I always use the feather boards that come with it whenever possible. They really help to control and secure the work piece. Have you considered using them?
Absolutely! Highly recommend using them, especially if doing repeated work, I have used them a lot, especially when building the bed frame. Thanks for the contribution!
Great tips thanks for sharing
Glad you liked it! I appreciate your kind words 😊
Thank you!
Glad you found it helpful Dawn!
Happy Woodworking!
Josh
Northwest Craftsman
Tydlig instruktion 😀😀😀
tack! kul att du tyckte att det var till hjälp!
Josh
Northwest Craftsman
Also, please use featherboards!! They can help massively too!
Totally agree! I don’t utilize my feather boards nearly enough!
I brought my dad’s old craftsman router home with me when I was selling his house. I put it under my router table. I was busy doing something at the table and the damned thing turned on by itself. I unplugged it, detached it and examined it. There was a wire that was exposed and my bumping the table jiggled the wires I guess? Needless to say, it’s no longer in my workshop. UNPLUG people.
Always a good reminder. Glad you’re safe!
@@NorthwestCraftsman Thanks! I wasn’t close enough to it to get hurt LUCKILY but it sure scared me! It’s was a loud one!
Great video, and very timely. Just bought myself this exact combination a month ago, your tips are sure to be helpful.
Did you build the table/cart you were talking about? If so, I'd be interested to see what you came up with. There's another TH-camr who built a really nice one with a couple of drawers. Interested to see what others are doing.
Thanks!
Hey Bruce! Thanks for the compliment! I’m glad you found it helpful!
I haven’t yet! I was able to salvage a flat surface elsewhere so that hasn’t been at the top of my list. Do you have the link to the other TH-camr? I’d love to see what they did!
@@NorthwestCraftsman Here is the link:
th-cam.com/video/CEnXJsHlaek/w-d-xo.html
He offers a plan, which I purchased. It's a good starting point, I'll say that. If nothing else, it's a chance to learn about my router, table saw, and measuring 😊
Thanks for sharing! And absolutely! It’s always fun for me to work through what someone else does to see how I can improve.
Do you have a link to those push blocks you used?
You caught me with a missing link! Thanks for catching that! I've added it and my other PPE to the video description and below is the link to the push blocks! If you're looking for something more sophisticated, you can get the GRR-Ripper. I plan to upgrade to this push block at some point.
Push Block Set: amzn.to/367rNaI
GRR-Ripper Push Block: amzn.to/3reO9PG
I have my router plugged into a foot switch, which is plugged into a power bar. The foot switch must be held down constantly for the router to run, so that’s almost like unplugging the router. The foot switch is plugged into a power bar with a switch, so instead of unplugging the router to change bits I turn the power bar off and do not touch the foot switch. Double protection from inadvertent start-ups.
That’s a great idea!
I just watched your video on the Bosch router and table and got mine hooked up. Very happy with the results! But I still need a vacuum for the back.
Do you have any vacuum recommendations I could hook up to this that won't break the bank? Or is that something you wouldn't cheap out on? Thanks so much!
Glad you found this helpful!
This is the shop vac I still use, or very nearly it. Though, if you go into your local home store, you should be able to find one that works great. Honestly, shop vacs are pretty robust and I wouldn’t break the bank on it. If you can wait until Black Friday or another summer sale, you can probably get one for under $100.
Shop Vac
amzn.to/3QyNfMS
Something that is well worth the money is a cyclone. I’ve only had to change my vacuum bags twice in the 5 years I’ve been woodworking and it keeps your vacuum’s performance high.
Cyclone
amzn.to/3WoJkWQ
Dust Bin
amzn.to/4a8LzRa
Hose
amzn.to/4a9nmKK
@@NorthwestCraftsman Thanks so much for your detailed response! I'll be sure to pick them up when I can.
Glad to help! Good luck and hope you have a great time with your new table!
What happened to the fingerboards?
Still have them but don’t use them unless there are a large number of the same cut I’m making. They aren’t necessary to operate the tool safely so I left them out for this video.
Any thoughts on router table height? I understand the height of the work surface would be a personal preference but are there any guidelines you're aware of? I noticed in your video the router was up pretty high but I don't know if that was for filming or personal comfort. Thanks
Great question Eddie! There is actually a good amount of writing on this topic and much debate.
Generally what I’ve heard is that for work requiring strength, the table top should be about at your wrists when you stand up straight with your arms at your side.
If you’re doing more detailed work that doesn’t require strength or leverage, closer to your elbows (so your arms are at a 90 when working) is more appropriate.
This varies greatly depending on who you are but the goal is for the work to be ergonomic. Not requiring you to lean over the table all the time but also not having to push in odd ways because your table is too tall. I know this was very vague, but hopefully it helped some 😊
Is an insert ring always required?
Not required to run, but absolutely recommended. It’s a pretty big safety risk if your part goes in while the router is running.
thanks for the video and the tips.
I find it very frustrating to change the router bits; I do it from underneath the router table, but there is just a very small space to use hands; any tip on how to do it?
thanks!
Hey Laura!
I can understand how that’d be frustrating. I do a combination of under and over. First, I adjust the router as high up as it can go with the quick adjust button (not need to use the fine adjustment). Then, there is a small plastic window that is removable on the fixed base that came in the 1617EVSPK combination pack. I remove this window and then, under the bench, holding the the spindle wrench (smaller of the two) in my right hand, I position it through this window to hold the spindle in place. With my left hand and the collet nut wrench (larger of the two), I come in from the top (it will have to be at an angle), loosening the collet nut until I can finish with my hand. I’ve also been told that Bosch has a set of wrenches that have a double 90° jog which allows the user to use both wrenches from the top. If that was too confusing, I think this is a prime example of a picture being worth 1000 words, shoot me an email (should be in the about page on the channel) and I can send some photos your way 😊
Happy woodworking!
Josh
Northwest Craftsman
@@NorthwestCraftsman Hi Josh,
EXCELLENT tip!!! and your explanation was just perfect!!
I just followed them, and it was so much easier!
Thank you very much!!
So glad it was helpful!
Happy woodworking!
Josh
Northwest Craftsman
Would you be able to find out what the size&thread is on the starter pin I have the mdf cabinet model but I think they both use the same plate and I'm missing that but shipping from bosch is crazy so I just want to get a bolt from the hardware store. Thanks
I don’t have a thread gauge in my shop to check mine but from some quick searching online, it looks like Bosch uses a 1/4”-28 thread on the starter pin. Not sure how easy it is for you to buy one and try it out but that’d be my go at it.
1/4"-28 is the correct size for the Bosch plate. The 28 indicates fine thread. I used a 1-1/2" bolt. Cut off the bolt head and about 1/4" of thread with a hacksaw. When installed, this leaves about 1" of the smooth, unthreaded portion of the bolt exposed. Before cutting the thread end, screw on a nut. Then after you cut, unscrewing the nut will clean up any threads that get messed up by the saw. File the sharp edges smooth. Carefully saw a slot across the top to allow tightening/removal with a screwdriver. If you have to use a bolt that is threaded its entire length, a 1" nylon spacer can be slipped over the bolt to prevent the threads from marring your work piece.
@@j.frankparnell3087 thanks
Is that a metal ring?
It is, and I’ve been meaning to be better about wearing a silicone one to prevent me from degloving my finger. Good reminder.
I am looking for my Milwaukee router FTR8-0X a router table does this one pass?
Not sure! I don’t have any experience with that particular table.
I did a climb cut without using push blocks, almost lost my finger! Hurts pretty bad, please work safe guys, becouse once it goes wrong, the damage can be irreversible (I'm also a guitar player)...
Yikes! Glad you didn’t lose your finger! Thanks for sharing.
Tell me you served without telling me you served ha. Great video
I appreciate the compliment but I have actually not served. I’m just surrounded by friends and family that have so I’ve probably picked up some mannerisms. Glad you liked the video!
@@NorthwestCraftsman lol, your ear protection had me foiled ha.
@@CarveLifeyou’re all good 😂 I take it as a compliment!
One thing worth mentioning is DON'T use gloves when using a router table, the fabric can get caught and pulling your hand in causing even more damage.
Also worth noting, watching this video and not hitting the like button is also not best practices.
Dust collection doesn't necessarily capture all the fine particles which are what you should be concerned about for your lungs. Mask or respirator should be worn regardless and it's reckless of you to suggest otherwise.
I appreciate your feedback and I will always have misses. You are right that the safest approach to dust collection includes always wearing a mask.
If PPE is the first safety tip, then you're giving the false impression that router tables are 100% safe
Well shoot, that’s not what I was going for at all. PPE is always my first safety tip because it’s one of the best things someone can do to prevent unnecessary injury in the shop. By no means is that intended to convey immunity from injury afterwards. I used to say it more but in the shop you can go from zero to dead in less than a few seconds, so pay attention. Maybe need to convey that more.
PPE The logical first step in safety. No need to be obtuse