New Foam for Sprung Seat Cushions - Professional Tips and Tutorial for All Levels
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 พ.ย. 2020
- I replaced the outer, softer seat foam with a much denser one. I had not realized when talking with my friends that there were springs in the seat. I feel the springs and the foam left in place complement each other and would not advise changing that foam out.
I have been in the upholstery and interior decorating business for over 25 years, as well as teaching these subjects both privately and in colleges. I have drawn on my years of teaching to put this video together and hope to have answered all your questions.
Please feel free to ask questions and I shall see if I can answer them for you.
The answers to your softening seat cushions, a little improvement goes a long way. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Thank you SO much for your information on constructing spring cushions! There is very little info out there on this subject and this seems like the only way to get a soft seat and a nice crown on a cushion. I am trying to replace 5” firm foam to a softer feel by inserting a spring unit in the center of it..I can’t find out how much compression should be on the springs while encased in the foam-should I use 3.5 “ tall ones or 5” and compress them more? i will use 15 gauge springs (the ONLY ones I can find on internet ) I know to encase them with 1” foam all around but not wanting to “bottom out”-How much should they stick up from the foam casing before gluing on the top and bottom layer? I will use a Dacron wrap and re-use the feather envelope. I am so happy to have found your site, please continue to provide such wonderful and much needed tutorials!
Thank you for your question. I think as you watch the film you will notice that the springs are only about 1 - 1 1/2 inches above the foam on the sides. You really don't want much more than that as it was quite a struggle to get them compressed and held down as I glued each side into position. If I remember the foam on the top and the bottom of the seat was about 1 1/2 inches thick, you certainly don't want to go less than an inch as you don't want the springs to push through, although with the feather top that shouldn't be a problem. I know I didn't do the complete start to finish on the construction, I think there is enough information to be able to make a whole cushion and get a nice result. Use the existing foam for the measurements and it might be worth reusing the existing foam cut into strips for the walls of the new cushion, then you are only buying the foam for the top and bottom of each seat cushion.
Good luck with your project.
I've got a situation here with a salvaged couch I decided to take on. Didn't look in bad condition but upon opening it up,boy,I've got my work cut out for me. Trying to decide if this is even worth it,but it's nice and it's a big sectional, probably can get least 500 when I'm done with it. But the pocket springs inside the lounger side of couch, no back area, it has what feels like almost missing springs,but feel around some more and theyre just smashed out of place and into the other springs...I'm just wondering while watching you do this, is this what I'm dealing with going to even be possible for me to repair, you think? I've got tons of professional supplies, which is why I decided to do this, but the springs,im not savey with as to how to repair...why I'm watching this. But boy, doing these sort of projects are definitely complex,and more than what ide really anticipated. Thank you sooo much for sharing your knowledge gained from I'm sure years of experience with this.
Thank you. I am wondering about a "cushion press". Upolsterers with out this use it as a reason they do not restore spring-in cushions. Also what guage wire is best for a 32'x22' couch cushion with springs that look about 4' high finished. Where can a person buy supplies, not being in retail, just working on my own project. (Do you want to do this job instead of me???) Great video. Thanks again.
Thank you for your question. I would search online for pocket springs, or upholstery suppliers and see what companies come up in your local area. You could try The Foam Store as I think they are a franchise, the one here in Houston is a very good resource. Ask them about what you need as they will be more knowledgeable than I am on this subject. Once you know what you are looking for, I should think Amazon might have what you need if the other places do not help with filling the order for you.
I have a lady somewhere on this list of questions who had a similar problem with the springs and the foam she required for the project.
I will confess I no longer have accounts with upholstery suppliers as I have been trying to get out of this business for the past few years and working from home means a lack of space so I only carry the bare minimum of supplies these days.
Good luck with your search and project
Interesting video. I've got an internally sprung 4yo Ikea sofa and I couldn't help but thinking that the springs were the uncomfortable part of the design (it never really softened up), but a look inside makes me suspect that either the foam is too thin above the springs, or the Fiberfill (?) might just need replumping. I had considered a single block of foam for the whole seat cushion to replace the springs but maybe I'll consider foam re-top now I've seen your video - any thoughts as to the density of foam is best? And any thoughts on replacing the filling with feathers * or, dare I say it, introducing a memory foam layer? Thanks
(*I've dabbled with adding more feather stuffing to a sofa in the past and now just how 'messy' things can get!)
Thank you for your question.
I would suggest removing the existing foam as it is probably rather spongy and replacing it with medium-density foam as in the film. Measure how thick the existing foam is and add a little more if you think it will fit into the cushion cover. or you could err to caution and just add 2cm/1" of super soft foam to the top of the medium density - which should still be the same depth as the existing foam.
Dacron wrap makes it easier to get the foam into the cushion cover as well as plump up any areas that might be a little flat.
I do have this video if you want to downsize feather pillows and make them easier to work with. I do not work with feathers very often as I am allergic to them. th-cam.com/video/QR51rCx7VeM/w-d-xo.html
Good luck with your project.
Hi Sally, I just discovered your channel by searching for Marshall spring cushion replacement. I'm hoping you could answer a couple questions I have about replacing the Marshall springs in chair cushions.
First a little background: I just purchased a pair of armchairs with ottomans off craigslist with the intent to upcycle and reupholster them in the future. The existing upholstery is in good shape, (no rips, etc. but is a little sun faded, fabric is a little loose and clashes with my decor colors). For now I want to revamp the cushions as they are very squishy (I can easily compress them over half way with just one hand) and a little broken down in the area next to the back. I'm hoping I can stiffen up the cushion as my back is happier with firmer support.
The current seat cushion is attached to the deck. (I intend to make it a loose cushion when I reupholster; the back is fixed, no cushion attached or loose.) When poking around to find if the back of the seat cushion is zippered (it is), I discovered it has Marshall springs. It doesn't feel like there is any foam at all, just Dacron covering the springs, and in the back edge of the cushion there's hardly any Dacron so the wires are easily felt thru the fabric. The current springs are very thin, almost flimsy. I'm not familiar with the actual size differences but from poking around the internet, I suspect these are 16ga (or smaller as I've found replacement springs as small as 17ga and also learned that smaller gauges are supposed to be for backs, not seats).
The cushion measures 21"Dx20"W (somewhat rectangular without a T) with a 5" boxing (measured cord to cord), and since the spring unit is slightly off-centered, it leaves about 1.5" in the back and 2" in the front of broken down Dacron. The springs appear to be 2.5" wide and in a 7x7 configuration measuring about 17.5" square from what I can feel thru the fabric and what little Dacron there is. The existing springs seem to be 5" with room in the loose fabric for about an inch of Dacron top and bottom (the fabric isn't very tight on the cushion). I think they are also half-ring as the springs seem a little wobbly from side to side. I just learned that the full-ring configuration is firmer than the same gauge in a half-ring.
I found a source which is located on the same side of the country as me which offers shipping (some don't). They have 3" spring units that are 6x6 and in 3 different heights of springs as well as gauges with combinations including full and half ring attachment. The firmest one they offer is 4.5", 13ga full-ring marked as "firm". They also offer a 5", 15ga half-ring marked as "medium soft". (Other units are 3.5" springs in 15 and 16 gauges.)
If you've read this far, thank you for your patience with my long-windedness. Now to my questions: What height/gauge of spring unit should I use? Would it make a difference if I re-wrap in Dacron or if I decide to do a foam box like you feature in this video? If I stick with Dacron, how thick should I make it. If I do the foam, what density should I use in combination with the spring unit and what thickness should I use? What height should the cushion be before I stuff it back in the cover?
Thanks so much for your time and for providing this wonderful resource.
Thank you for your question. You are right the thinner gauge springs are for chair backs as there isn't as much pressure being put on them. I would be surprised if it was just Dacron, although about 20 years ago they brought out a compressed Dacron as a foam substitute, the new thing to use. I made one window seat cushion for a friend and needed to replace the insert with foam, as the compressed Dacron didn't hold up as well as the foam did. You might get away with rolling some Dacron up and pushing it into the back of the seat cushion for the interim as a stopgap till you get around to reupholstering the chairs. With the squishy nature of the seats you really don't want to risk the spring being at wonky angles because this will also add to the failure of the seat cushion construction.
When you are ready, I would suggest taking one of the cushions apart to see what is in there. If the springs are still upright as in not leaning over when on a flat surface then you might be able to reuse them. The walls of the seat cushion can be done in medium-density foam, you might find the extra firm foam to be rather too rigid and you might feel like you are falling into a hole when you sit on the cushion. I seem to remember the walls of the seat cushion being about 10-12.5cm/4-5 inches across so the springs are kept perpendicular with little space to move around and about 2.5cm/1 inch shorter than the springs to give a little resistance to the cushion. Then you can use a 2.5cm/1 inch, extra firm foam for the top and bottom of the new seat cushion, then wrap it in Dacron to keep it all together. I use either 3M or 3M heavy-duty spray glue for much of my work. Making your cushion a little deeper along the foam sides than the case is perfectly ok, as the covers eventually stretch with wear and tear.
So you might consider the new walls of your seat cushions could be 7.5-9cm/3-3.5 inches high with the 2 sheets of extra firm foam on top and bottom to make up the rest of the height of the cushion sides. When you have the Mashall Spring out, you can really determine what you need to do, it takes a lot of guessing out of the way. If you just wrap the spring in Dacron you will just have the same problem as you have now.
I also have this video on foam seat construction which might also be of use, as it shows you how to wrap the Dacron around and sew it into place.
th-cam.com/video/VRm_dQL7BnU/w-d-xo.html
I hope this is of use, good luck with your project when you get to it.
@@beinspired1487 Thank you for your quick reply Sally. (And for the link to the video. I had just watched it before seeing your reply. I've also replaced a foam cushion on a chair I previously owned with a higher density foam and wrapped it with Dacron so I'm a little familiar with that part of the process at least.)
For a little clarification about firmness, would you say that the foam should be firmer than the springs rather than vise-versa? If so, and if I have to replace the spring unit, it would be better to get the 5" medium-soft spring (15ga) and put 1" extra firm foam top and bottom (with the medium density walls around the spring unit)? If I'm understanding correctly, the walls should be 4-5" thick, so maybe 4" on the sides and back with 5" on the front? Using the 17.5" stock spring unit that would make the overall width and depth of the foam box to be 25.5"x26.5" before putting it in the 20"x21" cover (of course, adding a half inch each direction for the replacement unit). Does 5.5-6" of side compression each direction sound right? (I'm trying to envision myself stuffing this into a cushion cover, even with vacuuming it as flat as possible. What I imagine is what an episode of Lucille Ball would have looked like. [Cue: Laugh track] 🤣)
WRT the existing Dacron, maybe the foam over the springs has been cut by the spring wire (along with tearing the spring fabric pockets) and the foam pushed inside the spring, leaving the Dacron on top. (I had similar happen with the aforementioned chair but in that case it was the elastic webbing that cut the foam.) The way the cushion feels on the worse of the two chairs along the back edge is like a 1/2" thick Dacron that has a wrinkle across in it at an oblique direction and less than that in one spot making the wire of the spring easily felt during inspection. The only way I'll know for sure is to open it up.
I've done some more investigation about these chairs after finding a manufacturer name on the "New Material" tag. It's Haining-Mellow (made in China). I initially thought it was 2 last names making up the company name, but Haining is an area in China and Mellow is a furniture manufacturer in that region. They don't offer very much in the way of furniture (mostly mattresses), but from the language on their website it looks like they do manufacturing prototypes of furniture, so this set may have been a prototype or one-off/custom order and not a production piece. They may not have intended it to be for extended use. No matter. It's right sized for me and I'll make it mine.
Thank you again for your time.
@@GraeMatterz Sorry to have taken a little while to get back to your today. I would suggest drawing out the seat cushions on some paper with all the outside dimensions and marking in the springs with their dimensions as they are fixed due to their sizes. Then the walls of foam can be adjusted to fit the space left over on all four sides. You do need them quite thick as they are holding the shape of the cushion. If they are too thin, especially where the main wear and tear is, they will just buckle over time.
I would discuss the foam with the company selling the springs, they might have a different way of working out the foam density required or be able to sell the foam to you if they stock it. Personally, I would keep the foam compression comparable to the resistance of the springs, as the seat cushion should behave as one unit. You don't want to sink in the middle of the cushion any more than you want to be sitting on a hill.
You shouldn't have any problem with stuffing the new cushion into the cover if the zipper comes down each side of the boxing. I usually give a few centimeters/inches to either side, then turn the cover back on itself, and with a little maneuvering and easing the new cushions should go in without too much of a hitch. If the cushion is wrapped with Dacron there is less resistance compared to the foam being exposed. You really need the sprung seat cushions to go into the cover as square on as you can, the springs do not need to be folded out of shape.
When I am webbing a seat and putting foam on top, I will put a layer of fabric between the two, as this stops the foam from being cut over time by the webbing.
I hope this helps.
@@beinspired1487 No worries about the delayed response. I appreciate you taking the time to answer my litany of questions and for your interaction with your audience in general. I know you are busy and I'm grateful for your generosity in sharing your knowledge.
I was able to open up a little of the zipper and get a finger inside to figure out what's in there. I discovered that there is foam under the Dacron, but it feels like it is low quality (very similar to the density I found in the previous chair). It has broken down and wadded up on the deck side of the zipper.
I have contacted the spring supplier rep with the questions as you suggested. He said they don't have that kind of information but he is willing to open up a spring unit and manually compare the compression of it to the foams they have. (He previously said they don't give upholstery advice as they only sell the supplies and have no upholstery knowledge.) He needed to know which spring unit I was looking at buying and if I had a preference for the foam. I told him the unit I had decided on was the 6x6x3x3.5 15ga full-ring (marked 'medium-firm' with an overall dimension of 18"x18") and that I was looking at an HR foam to match. (I selected the 3.5" spring as the taller spring units are either 'firm' or 'medium soft', so I'm compromising on the height to get the Goldilocks firmness thinking I can make up the difference with thicker top/bottom foam. ETA - I just spotted this note on their website: "height of outer coils may measure about half an inch taller due to inner coil tension, but should meet inner coil height after installation and regular use" so it sounds like the springs are actually 4" without tension.) I'm awaiting his reply.
When I replaced the cushion in the chair I previously had I was living in the Portland, OR area, which had a wonderful upholstery supply brick-n-mortar. They had a long bench with several samples of the foam densities and ILDs they carry for seat and back cushions so the customer could do a 'test sit' before ordering their foam. This supplier also had an upholstery shop in the back, so they were able to impart a lot of knowledge for that project. I was also able to get my cushion custom cut. Unfortunately, they don't sell Marshall spring units. I just shot them an email asking which of their HR foams would be considered "medium-firm" to match the spring tension. I'll likely get the foam from them as they will custom cut the foam from the sheets the customer buys. The smallest sheet they sell is 27"x27" in various thicknesses (the spring supplier only sells in 24"x96" sheets, no custom cut). I'm thinking about getting them to cut 6 3" wide strips (for the back and sides) and 2 4" wide strips (for the front) out of the 27" square sheet, which will be enough for the two seat cushions. These cuts would make the foam box 24"Wx25"D with the 18"x18" spring unit tightly nested inside (cushion cover is 20"Wx21"D between seams). If I get 3" thick foam, that would be a half inch shorter than the spring height for that unit. Would that be sufficient or should I either get 2" foam or cut the 3" foam to 2.5"? (I'm also considering making an inside cover for the spring units instead of relying on the thin non-woven polyester they use to wrap the springs.)
This leads me to another question regarding the thickness and configuration of the top and bottom foam: I mentioned previously that I was going to convert the box seat cushion from attached to loose when I reupholster. I'm not sure if I should plan on making the cushion reversible or do a non-reversible with a velcro strip toward the back to keep it from slipping. Given as small as this cushion is compared to other chairs and sofas I've seen, would the velcro strip even be necessary? I was thinking that instead of doing 1" firm foam top and bottom, maybe doing the non-reversible cushion and put 2" foam on the top. Another idea I just considered (since I'm now looking at a 3.5" spring versus the 4.5" or 5" ones I considered previously) would be to do 2" firm foam on both the top and bottom and then use 2" medium-firm foam on the sides for a total cushion height of 6" (plus the book wrapped Dacron). Which would you do?
WRT the webbing on the previous chair, that's exactly what I wound up doing. I replaced the green elastic webbing with black stripe jute and put one more strip of it each way than I probably needed, so that it became a nearly solid weave with just tiny holes at the junctions, then I re-used the old cambric over it as the center of the cambric was still in good shape.
Once more, please excuse my long-windedness. It seems like the more answers I receive the more questions I have. Thank you again for your time!eta
@@GraeMatterz I make these videos and understand I may not cover all of the subject matter in each one, so there will always be some questions from people. When I was teaching a class in person, I would answer many questions. I try to make the videos as if I have a couple of people asking questions, which helps with the content in them.
The foam in commercially made items does tend to be of lower quality. Manufacturers do not care if your chair or sofa only lasts a few years, they want to sell you another one as soon as possible. You would not be impressed with the quality of the wooden frames inside them either.
With luck, the sales rep will be able to give you the information you require regarding the comparison between the foam and the springs. The tension on the springs happens when they have been compressed into whatever base/frame they are going in. This is why they need to be about 1" taller than the surrounding foam walls of the seat cushion. The springs shouldn't be too snug inside the foam walls, they do need a little space to move up and down without the motion being restricted by other springs or the foam walls. I would suggest that there is a little leeway on all four sides to make sure everything moves well. The sheets of firm foam can be thicker than the 1" to make up any difference you might need to make the cushion taller. You can make a separate cover to go around the springs it shouldn't be a problem - the thin fabric does eventually tear in places. The inner cover can be made out of curtain lining or plain calico.
To get equal wear and tear, make the cushion insert double-sided. It is easier if the cover is double-sided too, as you can flip it over each time you hover the seat base to get rid of the animal hair, food crumbs, or just find lost change. Remember when you make a new cover you can make it a little taller or shorter if needed.
You will have a better idea of the actual size of the spring base when it is in front of you - just because something says it is 18" x 18" doesn't mean it is, there might be a little variation. Then you can make precise measurements for the foam walls, and the foam company to cut them for you to the precise measurement. Cutting a slice of foam less than an inch, even with an electric knife can be quite awkward.
If the finished seat cushion is a little snug in the chair it will stay put, but if it is too snug it will buckle a bit, which will eventually cause the cushion to break down over time. I make the insert to the size and shape of the space between the arms of the chair/sofa, the Dacron does the rest, by filling out the cushion cover sides. If the seat cover is too wide it will wrinkle and look loose.
Take the measurements from the existing cushion cover and double-check them against the actual chair, and take the measurement about 4"up from the seat base. I measure across the front, the middle, and the back of the chair?sofa seat, just in case it is slightly shaped. The measurement from the chair back to the front border should be about 1" over the front, this allows you to push the seat cushion firmly into the back of the seat space without the seat cushion looking to small for the chair.
I hope this has cleared up a few more questions for you.
I am replacing chair cushions on a platform rocker. The original cushions have marshall spring units covered with cotton batting. I purchased new springs and need to decide whether to use cotton batting or foam. Which do you recommend?
Thank you for the question. I do in most cases try to keep the integrity of the original where possible. If you haven't already got rid of the original cotton batting then I suggest you use that and put extra padding over the top to smooth the cushion top out. This can be cotton batting, foam, Dacron, or a combination of these materials.
Good luck with your project.
Thank you for this tutorial. What is the spray glue you are using?
Thank you for your question. I use the 3M Heavey Duty spray. I buy it from Lowes and Joanne Fabric here in the US, so I would imagine maybe B&Q or Dyer's hardware stores would have it in the UK.
Good luck with your project.
@@beinspired1487 Thanks for the info!
@@barbaranewton5283 Not a problem, glad I could help.
Let me ask, do you use 100% feathers in your down bag or mix cotton with feathers in what ratio? Can you advise me?
Thank you for your question. I can honestly say that I rarely very rarely deal with feathers as I have allergies. The few times I have had to make something up using them, it has always been with 100% feathers.
In the case of this seat cushion, I didn't have to do anything with the feather cover as the foam was the problem.
I'm not sure if this helps at all.
My couch has about 2-3" of space in between the foam and the spring box, is that normal or is that due to wear? Can i just add poly fill in the spaces or does it need to be more foam?
Thank you for your question. Usually, the springs are in with little room to spare so they are kept upright and can not twist to one side or another. The space might be due to either the manufacturer using the wrong size springs to save money or using up scrap foam for the same reason. After all most people do not open up the cushions to check.
I would suggest seeing if you can find some 1-1 1/2" foam and cut it to size, then gluing it to the insides of the original four walls of foam so it is firmly in position this will have more structure than polyfill, which might eventually bunch up and interfere with the outer springs as you use the cushions. So long as the springs remain as central as possible in the cushion that is really important for equal wear and tear.
I hope this is helpful and good luck with your project.
@Be Inspired thank you so much that was so helpful! Last question, how pertinent is it to replace the quilting batting? It's very, very worn down but im sure j can restretch it over the foam
The white springs packets got ripped, is there a way to replace those packets?
Thank you for your question. I really don't know, as I remake them when needed, as spring sizes can be different from one project to another. I have this video that gives you an idea of how to do it. th-cam.com/video/Da66MKPeYx4/w-d-xo.html
I hope it is of use to you, they are quite easy to do as you can take the information from the ones you already have. If they are open-topped like in the video you have attached your question to then they are much easier, use the existing pockets to make the new ones the same way.
Having just looked up replacement spring pockets they seem to only sell the whole sections.
Good luck with your project
Before I found this video, I found another that showed how to replace the cheap non-woven fabric with better quality fabric (I think the fabric he used was down ticking). While it didn't provide the answers to my particular questions, it may address yours. th-cam.com/video/l2shp9zRMwI/w-d-xo.html
Why did you not replace the sides?
Thank you for the question.
The original plan for these cushions was to replace the full insert with extra firm foam and laminate it with super soft on either side. So it was a surprise when I really started looking at them and found the springs housed in the middle of the seat cushion. The gentleman and I decided to replace the foam on the top and bottom of the cushions so that the resistance of the original foam sides and the springs would remain the same as they were designed to work together.
If I had replaced the foam housing the centers of the seat cushions might have appeared firmer or softer depending on what density foam I had replaced the housing with.
I try to work with what I have and also not to gouge the clients of their monies. That way I have repeat customers that are more than happy to pass my name on to their friends and family and then I don't have to advertise - you can not beat word of mouth.
Good luck with your projects.
Looks like it needs more feathers. 😆
The feathers were a little flat and I did discuss that with the client. They said they weren't bothered by that so much as the squishiness of the seat cushion in general.
The foam bolsters around the springs had a similar resistance to them so I had to keep that for the evenness of the cushions, and just change out the top and bottom sheets of foam for denser ones.
The cushions are a year old and the clients are still really pleased with the solution that we came to.