Actually, I thought this was one of the better "how to" videos on changing oil for the F-150. I've got the 2014 with the 3.5L Ecoboost. You provide details and valuable tips, and your video quality is pretty good. Nice job!
I know Im asking randomly but does someone know of a way to get back into an Instagram account?? I somehow lost the password. I would love any assistance you can give me!
@Reed Benton Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site on google and im waiting for the hacking stuff atm. I see it takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
After you get the filter loosened up, wrap a plastic shopping bag around it, then spin it off the rest of the way.......This will catch a good bit of the used oil coming out of the filter..
Nice tip!! MUCH better than getting oil all over everything. What a piss-poor design. Guess I'm used to Toyota where I barely even get an oil drop on me.
I had a 2001 F150 V8 and oil changes were a breeze. Got a 3.5 2014 Eco - went to do my first change and when I got to the oil filter I was baffled. Spent 10 min looking for it (its so buried out of view), and it was nearly impossible to get off with my short arms. Oil filter wrench? - I already could barely reach it, almost had to last-resort and stab the filter with a screwdriver to get off. Looking at the underbelly I wish they just made the skid plate thing detachable.
I watched a video of an owner of these model years who cut out the side of a one quart oil container and slides it up under the oil filter to catch the oil when the filter is removed. It works great because I use this method and spill no oil from the filter now. Give it a try.
Wish I would have read this comment before I trashed my driveway. What Harley is saying is the drain channels Ford designed for this application don't work and oil goes everywhere.
@@SinnerSince1962Ford knows how to do it but refused on the Ecoboost. My 2008 explorer takes ~10min and no drops anywhere with the remote filter pointed down and right under the radiator
Great lesson, guys. I have a 2011 Ecoboost XLT w/ Crew & 6.5', that just came out of warranty. Yesterday, I changed the oil for myself without a drop on the ground. The only note I may add is there is a thick felt like splash guard that will be required to be removed to access the oil pan drain plug. There are four hex screws (8mm) that hold it up. Thank you for the video.
Either CJ had already removed it or very possibly, it was missing. On my 2014 a few of the tabs were broken and I still had it attached with using zip ties. The splash guard is now somewhere on I-40 in NC apparently after my mechanic failed to secure it after a recent oil change.
Extremely helpful. Made my first change on my 2014 FX2 extremely easy. Except for the moron who put a death grip on the oil filter but thankfully I have pliers for that. Thanks again for the video!
Great video! I just bought a 2012 F150 with the ecoboost motor. It is my habit to change the oil, filter and air filter whenever I buy a used vehicle. I'd still be looking for the oil filter if I had not watched this video! BTW, follow the advice NOT to over-tighten the drain plug and filter! The gorilla that owned this truck before me over tightened both of them. I had to use a breaker bar on the drain plug and an extension on the filter wrench.
Always always always use the motorcraft oil filter on 3.5 eco boosts they have a anti drain valve that keep the engine and components oiled during cold starts
Nothing wrong with a fram filter. Every oil filter on the market has an anti-drain back valve. There are better filters than others so on your next change run a more premium filter. Keep your turbos and engine lasting longer
@@MrCutLawnCare 188k no tics runs great...ima stick with the ford service parts and recommended oil penzoil platinum 5-30 and keep changin er every 3500 oil change costs me less than 40 bucks altogether...by far cheaper than a timing set or new engine
@@roberthughes2687 I'm not sure what your point is. With the length of the handle you cannot move the wrench through enough of an arc to advance or retreat by one tooth. I suppose if you have an 80 or 90 tooth torque wrench it could work
@@shreddder999 yes you absolutely can. You might not get a 3/4 or half inch drive in there but a 3/8 or 1/4 inch drive will work just fine. Besides the bolt will only turn about half a turn once it's finger tight. Different experience I guess.
Tips for anyone with a 2013 (first gen) Ecoboost: - To access the drain plug, the rear undertray must be removed first - The drain plug is 13mm, not 15mm (at least it is on mine, maybe they changed it) - The only practical way to access the filter is from above and in front of the engine
That rubber cover ONLY works if the truck is on level ground. My driveway is slightly slanted, so guess what, the oil drips over the front of that little diverter pan instead of where the actual cover fits.
I love that you’re my dad now. Also how did you make everything look like CAKE except for the twist push pins for the splash guard?!? 😂. Thank you for your service 🫡
I think you missed an important step. Once you add the oil, check the dipstick level to make sure it's correct or that there's even any oil in the engine at all. Wouldn't hurt to look underneath to make sure that you didn't forget the plug or the filter.
Purolator makes 2 filters that fits the Ecoboots engines, with more microfine internals than the motorcraft. I've used Purolator filters on my last 2 diesels which worked well, as well as Amsoil filters in the past. I'll research this further, and see what reviews there might be. Never, use a FRAM.
@@Powerstroke98 purolator is the only alternative for me. They aren't bad. I use motorcraft filters on my fords, jeeps, and Briggs & Strattons. Fyi, the Briggs & Stratton Intek riding mower engines uses the FL-910s MC oil filter.
Might want to re-title this to reflect 2011 - 2016 as the 2017 procedure is different - no metal drain plug, no splash guard, and no weird twist in square plugs to drain the oil filter.
Air Lar The 2015 is also different. The oil pan is covered by a light plastic guard, and the oil filter has a plastic tray that looks like it would capture oil draining from the filter, but does not and the oil comes out the back of the metal guard.
Like how you say nothing about taking a rag and pushing the oil that is sitting in the plastic tray below the oil filter over the back... If you dont, especially with the 5.0 you will have some decent oil drip-age coming from their... lot of people will think they're leaking oil if they dont remove the sitting stagnant oil... thought that would be a decent tip to add..
To be honest changing my oil in this vehicle for the first time. It's kind of convenient , but its a fucking huge mess at the same time, I wish FORD would of took a little more time to consider the mess it makes.
Clean the drain shoot under the oil filter.And check it if someone else changes the oil.Oil shops almost never clean it.And it will get blown by the fan everywhere.Check it every time.Its hard to reach they so they will not clean it.
Bonjour je suis en Côte d'Ivoire j'ai un soucis avec ma f150 j'ai fait la vidange à la maison de représentation de Ford à Abidjan je constate un bruit dans le moteur comme si un élément qui frappait sur l'autre
Would you recommend putting full synthetic oil in 2012 ecoboost 3.5 that has just turned 60,000 miles…It has alway had motorcraft synthetic blend in it….but now I’m thinking about putting full synthetic mobile one and filter….what do u think?
I hate this filter design. Idk why Ford can't do it like GM with a simple bottom of the block filter location. I bought an Expedition this week and though it was leaking. Had the dealer I work at lift it up and the lube guys and I were thinking the diff was leaking. Nope just oil from the filter being removed on the change.
Great to hear as I just bouht a well-maintained 2014 FX4 w/the ecoboost at 115k miles. The guy took great care of it but definitely did not do oil changes himself as I have all his records lol
The factory oil is a synthetic "blend" which is half conventional and half synthetic oil. Conventional oil should never be in a gasoline turbo engine because it can "bake out" at high turbo temperatures and cause costly repairs. As the oil breaks down, it will also cause poor lubrication on the timing chain cam phasers with that noise as a by product. I'll never know why dealerships use blended oil in turbo engines, besides greed, that is.
I drive mine up on metal ramps with about 8-10 inches of height. To keep them from sliding in front of the wheels, I turn the 4WD to 4A so the front wheels will grip them instead of push them. The metal ramps provide me enough height.
Joseph Foster Man I use synthetic oil in mine and change every 10,000 miles or longer. IMO I wouldn't buy synthetic if I'm gonna change it every 5-7,500 miles, rather use the Motorcraft oil and change every 7,500 miles. Pure synthetic is more stabile under high heat, it lasts longer. But that's just my 2 cents.
Theres a mechanic who has an Ecoboost 3.5 he has maintained since day 1 (I think 2011, its an early model) and the suckers got over 300k miles - ppl asked about the oil changes and he's always had it on full synthetic but he sets the oil life at 50% not 100. He was not a fan of the amount of miles Ford recommended (it was too high) especially since it was a working truck that tows.
Everytime I acquire a new vehicle I'm all excited to see if the oil filter is easy to get too... welp 10 vehicles in and the answer is never yes.. wtf just put the filter in a better spot 🤦♂️
I stopped that process years ago. The oil pump will fill the filter in less than a second, full or half full. And filling even half full of oil and then installing a right angle filter will just cause a mess.
Luckily the ford dealer already removed my splash shield, filter drain shield, and the threads from my drain plug.
Yeah they've been super helpful for me also. Got my BCM replaced, and they broke my key, and tried to super glue it back together
Actually, I thought this was one of the better "how to" videos on changing oil for the F-150. I've got the 2014 with the 3.5L Ecoboost. You provide details and valuable tips, and your video quality is pretty good. Nice job!
Thank you!
Yes my amigo
I know Im asking randomly but does someone know of a way to get back into an Instagram account??
I somehow lost the password. I would love any assistance you can give me!
@Paxton Hunter instablaster ;)
@Reed Benton Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site on google and im waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
I see it takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
After you get the filter loosened up, wrap a plastic shopping bag around it, then spin it off the rest of the way.......This will catch a good bit of the used oil coming out of the filter..
Nice tip!! MUCH better than getting oil all over everything. What a piss-poor design. Guess I'm used to Toyota where I barely even get an oil drop on me.
I had a 2001 F150 V8 and oil changes were a breeze. Got a 3.5 2014 Eco - went to do my first change and when I got to the oil filter I was baffled. Spent 10 min looking for it (its so buried out of view), and it was nearly impossible to get off with my short arms. Oil filter wrench? - I already could barely reach it, almost had to last-resort and stab the filter with a screwdriver to get off. Looking at the underbelly I wish they just made the skid plate thing detachable.
I watched a video of an owner of these model years who cut out the side of a one quart oil container and slides it up under the oil filter to catch the oil when the filter is removed. It works great because I use this method and spill no oil from the filter now. Give it a try.
Wish I would have read this comment before I trashed my driveway. What Harley is saying is the drain channels Ford designed for this application don't work and oil goes everywhere.
@@SinnerSince1962Ford knows how to do it but refused on the Ecoboost. My 2008 explorer takes ~10min and no drops anywhere with the remote filter pointed down and right under the radiator
Thank You for giving the wrench size. 15MM I did not want to get under the truck twice. THANKS AGAIN.
Great lesson, guys.
I have a 2011 Ecoboost XLT w/ Crew & 6.5', that just came out of warranty. Yesterday, I changed the oil for myself without a drop on the ground. The only note I may add is there is a thick felt like splash guard that will be required to be removed to access the oil pan drain plug. There are four hex screws (8mm) that hold it up.
Thank you for the video.
thank you for the tip
Either CJ had already removed it or very possibly, it was missing. On my 2014 a few of the tabs were broken and I still had it attached with using zip ties. The splash guard is now somewhere on I-40 in NC apparently after my mechanic failed to secure it after a recent oil change.
@@BeckVMH i also lost mine on the highway 😂!
I ripped that thing off years ago
You can actually tighten and loosen the oil filter from above, then go below to take it off or get it started putting it on.
Extremely helpful. Made my first change on my 2014 FX2 extremely easy. Except for the moron who put a death grip on the oil filter but thankfully I have pliers for that. Thanks again for the video!
Great video! I just bought a 2012 F150 with the ecoboost motor. It is my habit to change the oil, filter and air filter whenever I buy a used vehicle. I'd still be looking for the oil filter if I had not watched this video! BTW, follow the advice NOT to over-tighten the drain plug and filter! The gorilla that owned this truck before me over tightened both of them. I had to use a breaker bar on the drain plug and an extension on the filter wrench.
You and me both! 😂
Always always always use the motorcraft oil filter on 3.5 eco boosts they have a anti drain valve that keep the engine and components oiled during cold starts
K&N also has the anti drain back valve.
I used fram :(
Nothing wrong with a fram filter. Every oil filter on the market has an anti-drain back valve. There are better filters than others so on your next change run a more premium filter. Keep your turbos and engine lasting longer
@@MrCutLawnCare 188k no tics runs great...ima stick with the ford service parts and recommended oil penzoil platinum 5-30 and keep changin er every 3500 oil change costs me less than 40 bucks altogether...by far cheaper than a timing set or new engine
@@bubbajulian7294 pennzoil platinum or ultra platinum?
Oil changes aren’t complicated, but Ford did their best to make it incredibly inconvenient on this DIY.
“Just want to make it snug” for those of you with torque wrenches, 20 ft. lbs. is spec for the 3.5 n/a and e/b engines.
Thanks nobody ever mentions that.
If you have a stock F-150 sitting on the ground, good luck getting a torque wrench in there!
@@shreddder999 a torque wrench is no different than anything else.
@@roberthughes2687 I'm not sure what your point is. With the length of the handle you cannot move the wrench through enough of an arc to advance or retreat by one tooth. I suppose if you have an 80 or 90 tooth torque wrench it could work
@@shreddder999 yes you absolutely can. You might not get a 3/4 or half inch drive in there but a 3/8 or 1/4 inch drive will work just fine. Besides the bolt will only turn about half a turn once it's finger tight.
Different experience I guess.
Excellent video, straight and to the point! Help an old-school Shadetree Mechanic get the job done on a newer model truck!
Yeah, I had all kinds of other stuff underneath that I had to remove just to find the drain plug. What a pain...
It's by far the worst experience I've had doing an oil change in a car. Alot of crap to remove just to expose drain plug.
its pretty bad when you can't see the filter even with a camera
Tips for anyone with a 2013 (first gen) Ecoboost:
- To access the drain plug, the rear undertray must be removed first
- The drain plug is 13mm, not 15mm (at least it is on mine, maybe they changed it)
- The only practical way to access the filter is from above and in front of the engine
That rubber cover ONLY works if the truck is on level ground. My driveway is slightly slanted, so guess what, the oil drips over the front of that little diverter pan instead of where the actual cover fits.
Two tips above, either using a grocery bag, or slice a 1 qt. bottle in half once empty, and slide it under the filter first.
Horrible design, why have the filter in such an area?
If I don’t have a lift, you think I can enter from the top by removing the air filter?
I love that you’re my dad now. Also how did you make everything look like CAKE except for the twist push pins for the splash guard?!? 😂. Thank you for your service 🫡
I think you missed an important step. Once you add the oil, check the dipstick level to make sure it's correct or that there's even any oil in the engine at all. Wouldn't hurt to look underneath to make sure that you didn't forget the plug or the filter.
I have a 2014 f150 platinum, I can’t find the oil drain screw???
motorcraft filters only.
Purolator makes 2 filters that fits the Ecoboots engines, with more microfine internals than the motorcraft. I've used Purolator filters on my last 2 diesels which worked well, as well as Amsoil filters in the past. I'll research this further, and see what reviews there might be. Never, use a FRAM.
@@Powerstroke98 purolator is the only alternative for me. They aren't bad.
I use motorcraft filters on my fords, jeeps, and Briggs & Strattons.
Fyi, the Briggs & Stratton Intek riding mower engines uses the FL-910s MC oil filter.
Might want to re-title this to reflect 2011 - 2016 as the 2017 procedure is different - no metal drain plug, no splash guard, and no weird twist in square plugs to drain the oil filter.
Air Lar The 2015 is also different. The oil pan is covered by a light plastic guard, and the oil filter has a plastic tray that looks like it would capture oil draining from the filter, but does not and the oil comes out the back of the metal guard.
Where is the part when you have to remove the felt plate to even see the pan. 2015 3.5 EB
Like how you say nothing about taking a rag and pushing the oil that is sitting in the plastic tray below the oil filter over the back... If you dont, especially with the 5.0 you will have some decent oil drip-age coming from their... lot of people will think they're leaking oil if they dont remove the sitting stagnant oil... thought that would be a decent tip to add..
agreed!
To be honest changing my oil in this vehicle for the first time. It's kind of convenient , but its a fucking huge mess at the same time, I wish FORD would of took a little more time to consider the mess it makes.
@@FrequencyOfThought try a third generation 4Runner. Takes lots of practice to get those skid pans back in place. Think juggling.
Don't you have to reset the intellegent oil life meter?
Yeah its right in the menu for the oil. You can reset it to any value you want.
Dont really have to lol, keep track of the time and mileage lmao that's what i do
Clean the drain shoot under the oil filter.And check it if someone else changes the oil.Oil shops almost never clean it.And it will get blown by the fan everywhere.Check it every time.Its hard to reach they so they will not clean it.
Can you do an oil sensor plug replacement or location video on same make,model and yr?
None of these videos show you to remove the skid plate
Bonjour je suis en Côte d'Ivoire j'ai un soucis avec ma f150 j'ai fait la vidange à la maison de représentation de Ford à Abidjan je constate un bruit dans le moteur comme si un élément qui frappait sur l'autre
Yeah rub that oil on the filter... Actually very helpful thank you 😁
Would you recommend putting full synthetic oil in 2012 ecoboost 3.5 that has just turned 60,000 miles…It has alway had motorcraft synthetic blend in it….but now I’m thinking about putting full synthetic mobile one and filter….what do u think?
High mileage synthetic/motorcraft filter
Keep doing what you're doing going to work out just fine just don't go over 5,000 miles
I hate this filter design. Idk why Ford can't do it like GM with a simple bottom of the block filter location. I bought an Expedition this week and though it was leaking. Had the dealer I work at lift it up and the lube guys and I were thinking the diff was leaking. Nope just oil from the filter being removed on the change.
serioulsy so dumb why a sideways filter? literally the reason i dont want to change my own oil
No excuse...my 08 explorer is a remote cartridge filter, pointed down, and right under the radiator. Easiest car I've ever changed oil on
Solid South Park reference
Great video, currently using pennzoil ultra platinum 5-30 , runs like the day I bought it,currently at 114,000 miles
3.5 EcoBoost
Great to hear as I just bouht a well-maintained 2014 FX4 w/the ecoboost at 115k miles. The guy took great care of it but definitely did not do oil changes himself as I have all his records lol
Definitely one of the best oils for turbocharged vehicles!
I just did mine with Mobil 1 full synthetic too. Engine sounds quieter then before with dealership oil.
Im sure it does, the factory oil was probably a cheap conventional oil.
FIn mine the factory provided oil cause the chain tensioners to be clackly at cold start. First oil change and no chain noise since.
The factory oil is a synthetic "blend" which is half conventional and half synthetic oil. Conventional oil should never be in a gasoline turbo engine because it can "bake out" at high turbo temperatures and cause costly repairs. As the oil breaks down, it will also cause poor lubrication on the timing chain cam phasers with that noise as a by product. I'll never know why dealerships use blended oil in turbo engines, besides greed, that is.
@@jonlucas5521 So the turbos are cooled using the engine oil? I didnt see any lines on my turbos... Turbos are a new thing for me.
Should I use mobile 1 or penzeoil or doesn’t really matter ?
How would you do all this without a lift?
I drive mine up on metal ramps with about 8-10 inches of height. To keep them from sliding in front of the wheels, I turn the 4WD to 4A so the front wheels will grip them instead of push them. The metal ramps provide me enough height.
There should be enough clearance as is under the truck to squeeze in. I’m 6’2” and just did mine last week with it just chillin in the garage 🤷♂️
How often should the filter be replaced?
Every oil change , air filter & oil filter
Thanks a big time 👍👍👍
Will this work on 2019?
Is the oil change on 2015 5.0 almost the same?
Yup!
How often should it be changed with that Mobil 1?
I don't like to go over 5,000 miles, but you can go up to 7,500.
Joseph Foster
Man I use synthetic oil in mine and change every 10,000 miles or longer. IMO I wouldn't buy synthetic if I'm gonna change it every 5-7,500 miles, rather use the Motorcraft oil and change every 7,500 miles. Pure synthetic is more stabile under high heat, it lasts longer. But that's just my 2 cents.
Theres a mechanic who has an Ecoboost 3.5 he has maintained since day 1 (I think 2011, its an early model) and the suckers got over 300k miles - ppl asked about the oil changes and he's always had it on full synthetic but he sets the oil life at 50% not 100. He was not a fan of the amount of miles Ford recommended (it was too high) especially since it was a working truck that tows.
Everytime I acquire a new vehicle I'm all excited to see if the oil filter is easy to get too... welp 10 vehicles in and the answer is never yes.. wtf just put the filter in a better spot 🤦♂️
Thanks 👍
Put some Oil into the new filter too.
I stopped that process years ago. The oil pump will fill the filter in less than a second, full or half full. And filling even half full of oil and then installing a right angle filter will just cause a mess.
@@JasonW. Amen.
Thanks
yes it is.
Worst placement ever... jackass lube techs tightened the hell out of it of course