Thank you , reviewing it I feel like i could have done lots better. But when i get round to the tech4 I'll have a very close up and detailed rig and be even more quick with explanations ect.
Great walkthrough! One thing to add (and it isn't in the exploded diagram either) there was a 2mm grub screw on the backside of the reach adjuster housing that pushes against the pivot pin on my master cylinders. I thought my pin was completely seized as it wouldn't come out, even with mallet persuasion! The grub screw needs to be removed to take the pin out and I got a new one in the rebuild kit.
This helped me today, just a tip for the small piston seal. I put the piston vertically in a vice, wrapped in a piece of leather to protect it, I then used some Knipex A0 circlip pliers to stretch the seal over the piston.I then used a old Tig welding tungsten in place of the pick to get seal in place.
@@JustFrana Thanks for the video, for showing people how to do the job, fitting the seals by hand makes total sense, but that must have been a real pain to do.
Two signs the lever needs a rebuild although the brakes are working good-ish: -Dropping brake fluid level while still having a pretty good bite point. The level drops very slowly though, in 18 months between checking/bleeding it wasn't enough to cause any problems. Note, dropping level can have other causes too. -Black residue in the reservoir from seals that degrade. So remove the top cap and take a look.
I have not had tp remove those bushes yet but they are listed parts so you will be able to order new ones from hope. I eould try to find A socket or punch that matches the OD of the bush and gently tap it out.
You can use dot 5.1 or dot 4, I prefer dot 5.1 cause it's slightly thinner and translates to A beter lever feel. But if dot 4 is all you have , you can go right ahead.
Could you use the red rubber grease for the pistons of the caliper? People are saying don’t lube the seals or pistons with grease, use the brake fluid, but in hopes video, they use silicone grease, so hoping the red rubber grease is a good alternative?
Yes you definitely can , the pressure you brake line generates is much greater than what a bit of grease can withstand if it were to make its way to a port. I would do it with no hesitation
Thanks for the video, can you help with my problem please? I don't seem to be able to push the piston in far enough to reassemble the lever, the piston won't push in any further so I can't line up the holes to put the pivot pin through. Everything looks to be assembled in the right way, the seal kit is correct, the seals look to be the right size, the piston (complete with seals and spring) look identical to my old one (I took a picture) and the spring is oriented the right way.
Hey Steven , this part can be really tricky , in the video i already knew what to expect but i rebuilt another one before hand just make double sure , what might help is turning the adjusters all the way anti clockwise. I'll try measure the piston exposure on a tech 3 lever with the lever and that litte arm removed and let you know if you have not come right yet. Might only be friday cause work is killing me right now.
@@JustFrana Hey dude, thanks for your help. Out of curiosity I tried the seal in my other kit (doing both brakes so bought 2 kits obviously) and the piston went in easily, someone must have put the wrong seal in the kit at the factory :(
Hi, I have only one q: what kind of grease have You used? Can be the same as one for the shocks seals? Grate footage btw. Going to work with my hope brakes.
Suspension grease might be a little thin , I'd go for any heavy really thick grease made for hydraulic applications. If you do go with something like slick honey just open up the levers more regularly to make sure everything inside is still properly lubricated.
@@JustFrana I have smth in my garage. It is a kind of water proof graese, blue ( if the colour matters ) and very thik. I am using it with bottom bracket, headsets, suspension links, and everywhere else. Can it be mixed with DOT?
@@endurodoctor yes go f0r it , i initially thpught ypu have to use dot based grease but after talking to a tech at hope he assured me qny proper thick lubrication grease will work.
Ok. I did it. Seems both seals are swollen in my case. It could cause this horrible drag pushing the lever. The strange thing is there was no grease inside the master cylinder. Could DOT wash it out? Are U sure we need grease? My brake is a few months old and has never been bleed yet.
in theory yes , both work with dot fluid so they'll work fine but I don't know if the hope lever displaces enough fluid to move the pistons of the guide caliper enough. so once you've got everything built up i think you will find you get alot of lever pull until the pads eventually "bite" , you might be able to get around this by advancing the pistons in the caliper when the pads are out or by somehow overbleeding the system to get more fluid in there to take up the extra space. So I think it might work but if it does it's probably not going to work as good as you expect. Let me know if you do try it and what the outcome was. :)
Thanks, verry helpful. One of my hope brakes needs more bleeding, 4 times this year. There is no oil leaking. I was thinking the master cylinder might be the problem. What do you think?
I think if it's happening that often after you've ruled out the lever your hose might be scratched up or you myght have a small issue in your caliper which is unfortunately a little more tricky to check and you'll need some specific tools from hope.
Time stamps:
0:12 Consumables
0:35 Tools needed
1:09 Strip down
7:49 Rebuild
18:43 Final word
What is the size of the lever circlip that you replaced, as trying to source some spares.
@@Leigh_thompsett 5mm ID, sorry for the late reply... Never got a notification for the comment
@@JustFrana Great many thanks
Great video, concise and without useless talk
Thank you , reviewing it I feel like i could have done lots better. But when i get round to the tech4 I'll have a very close up and detailed rig and be even more quick with explanations ect.
Great walkthrough! One thing to add (and it isn't in the exploded diagram either) there was a 2mm grub screw on the backside of the reach adjuster housing that pushes against the pivot pin on my master cylinders. I thought my pin was completely seized as it wouldn't come out, even with mallet persuasion! The grub screw needs to be removed to take the pin out and I got a new one in the rebuild kit.
Exactly, same on my Hope Tech 3 levers.
Thank you this has helped me sort out a sticky lever i have had annoying me for ages ! really helpfull
Stoked to hear this helped you dude, share with your friends if they've also got the same brakes ;)
This helped me today, just a tip for the small piston seal. I put the piston vertically in a vice, wrapped in a piece of leather to protect it, I then used some Knipex A0 circlip pliers to stretch the seal over the piston.I then used a old Tig welding tungsten in place of the pick to get seal in place.
Thanks for the tip
@@JustFrana Thanks for the video, for showing people how to do the job, fitting the seals by hand makes total sense, but that must have been a real pain to do.
Nice work, well explained .. awesome job! :D
Great video thanks
谢谢你！ thanks~
Two signs the lever needs a rebuild although the brakes are working good-ish:
-Dropping brake fluid level while still having a pretty good bite point. The level drops very slowly though, in 18 months between checking/bleeding it wasn't enough to cause any problems. Note, dropping level can have other causes too.
-Black residue in the reservoir from seals that degrade.
So remove the top cap and take a look.
Ah I put mineral oil in yesterday because I’m a spanner and was hoping it’s not too hard to strip down
Great helpful video can u tell me I have bother getting the pivots out is there bushes holding them as well as the cut clip cheers
I have not had tp remove those bushes yet but they are listed parts so you will be able to order new ones from hope. I eould try to find A socket or punch that matches the OD of the bush and gently tap it out.
@@JustFrana thanks very much I managed to get it out but the bushes were done so will have to order them what are they called
Hey man nice vid,can i use dot 4 on my hope ?
You can use dot 5.1 or dot 4, I prefer dot 5.1 cause it's slightly thinner and translates to A beter lever feel. But if dot 4 is all you have , you can go right ahead.
Could you use the red rubber grease for the pistons of the caliper? People are saying don’t lube the seals or pistons with grease, use the brake fluid, but in hopes video, they use silicone grease, so hoping the red rubber grease is a good alternative?
Yes you definitely can , the pressure you brake line generates is much greater than what a bit of grease can withstand if it were to make its way to a port. I would do it with no hesitation
Thanks for the video, can you help with my problem please?
I don't seem to be able to push the piston in far enough to reassemble the lever, the piston won't push in any further so I can't line up the holes to put the pivot pin through. Everything looks to be assembled in the right way, the seal kit is correct, the seals look to be the right size, the piston (complete with seals and spring) look identical to my old one (I took a picture) and the spring is oriented the right way.
Hey Steven , this part can be really tricky , in the video i already knew what to expect but i rebuilt another one before hand just make double sure , what might help is turning the adjusters all the way anti clockwise. I'll try measure the piston exposure on a tech 3 lever with the lever and that litte arm removed and let you know if you have not come right yet.
Might only be friday cause work is killing me right now.
@@JustFrana Hey dude, thanks for your help. Out of curiosity I tried the seal in my other kit (doing both brakes so bought 2 kits obviously) and the piston went in easily, someone must have put the wrong seal in the kit at the factory :(
Can you help me with replacing 1 piston on my Tech 3 V4 brakes ?
Hi, I have only one q: what kind of grease have You used? Can be the same as one for the shocks seals? Grate footage btw. Going to work with my hope brakes.
Suspension grease might be a little thin , I'd go for any heavy really thick grease made for hydraulic applications. If you do go with something like slick honey just open up the levers more regularly to make sure everything inside is still properly lubricated.
@@JustFrana I have smth in my garage. It is a kind of water proof graese, blue ( if the colour matters ) and very thik. I am using it with bottom bracket, headsets, suspension links, and everywhere else. Can it be mixed with DOT?
@@endurodoctor yes go f0r it , i initially thpught ypu have to use dot based grease but after talking to a tech at hope he assured me qny proper thick lubrication grease will work.
Ok. I did it. Seems both seals are swollen in my case. It could cause this horrible drag pushing the lever. The strange thing is there was no grease inside the master cylinder. Could DOT wash it out? Are U sure we need grease? My brake is a few months old and has never been bleed yet.
JustFrana can you mix this leverls with Guide RE calipers? Thanks a lot
in theory yes , both work with dot fluid so they'll work fine but I don't know if the hope lever displaces enough fluid to move the pistons of the guide caliper enough.
so once you've got everything built up i think you will find you get alot of lever pull until the pads eventually "bite" , you might be able to get around this by advancing the pistons in the caliper when the pads are out or by somehow overbleeding the system to get more fluid in there to take up the extra space.
So I think it might work but if it does it's probably not going to work as good as you expect.
Let me know if you do try it and what the outcome was. :)
JustFrana im afraid im going RSC just like that 😁 ... but thanks for the answer dude 👍
Thanks, verry helpful. One of my hope brakes needs more bleeding, 4 times this year. There is no oil leaking. I was thinking the master cylinder might be the problem. What do you think?
I think if it's happening that often after you've ruled out the lever your hose might be scratched up or you myght have a small issue in your caliper which is unfortunately a little more tricky to check and you'll need some specific tools from hope.
Do I need to remove brake fluid to swap the reach and bpc screwa
no you don't need to
that part you saperate from lever,what that part name sir?
Cam Sub Assembly
@@JustFrana does anyone sell it colored other than black?
@@METEORA_47 I highly doubt that unfortunately
@@JustFrana I saw some pictures in the google they do custom there hope