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Scotty... always always always remove the negative terminal of the battery FIRST!!! This avoids accidental shorts of your tools to the chassis when removing the positive!!!
Scotty . I have a 2013 Silverado that needs a new FPCM replaced . I read them come already pre programmed ? Can I just replaced old one and put new one on? Some mechanic said they have to pre programmed them .
Scotty, once again..saved my hiney. That little small voice telling me DONT TOUCH HOT N GROUND CABLE TOGETHER cause my car is acting up. Just finished this video and said wow, God knows everything ahead of time😂😂☝️
Scotty, hope you truly do realize just how much you are treasured. Trust me when I say, you have a million admiring fans out here that have your back if ever needed my friend ! Bless you my brother !
Scotty, Jesus bless you. My husband was a mechanic in his young years but he did all our work on our Toyotas during our marriage - and he watched you too. He went to Heaven 3 months ago and I miss him terribly:'(😢. So, this 62 yr old widow, and my 61 yr old friend (she's a Pastor) watch and learn from you!! I just started watching - my husband and my friend had previous knowledge of you, and my Pastor friend just shared about your site here recently, so I'm watching and learning now!!! Thank you so very much!!!!
hey scotty took picture your resistor say 1k 10 watt not 1 ohm 10 watt as u spoke on air can u tell me which is correct before try on my car from a 72 years hobby garage mechanic and thaks for your years of service and your excellent skills yes i i still own my 68 vette 327 350 hp original 19 years
Was thinking the same thing since the beginning of the video when he said one ohm. There's no way one ohm is correct. 1 ohm would allow 12 amps to flow. Be safe and use a 1K resistor and it probably doesn't have to be 10 w half a watt should be fine.
@@macntrash yeah, when I heard 1 ohm, that didn't sound right. That would probably melt the leads on the resistor instantly and catch the silicone on fire.
Scotty brings so much to the world of automobiles, this man has blessed me over many years with mountains of automotive repair helps. And as you read the many comments written for Scotty you understand more and more how fortunate we are to have this wonderful guy sharing his time and energy with all of us. God bless you and your loved ones Scotty.
Good info for older vehicles pre 2003 ish , but be aware. You may accomplish the task of clearing stored codes, however a lot of that information would be helpful to diagnose current issues so your not testing or changing multiple components. Many vehicles store data to set thresholds for components to rely on. If you hard clear your stored data it may take days for your car to set new parameters. With a professional scan tool you can remove unnecessary or multiple issues and save needed data. If necessary I would only remove neg bat terminal with a terminal tool and turn on some lights to drain down stored power in capacitors. If you hard drain the electrical system on some new vehicles you lose data stored for fuel economy and performance curves. Radio, GPS, phone, seat, some keyless entry, and many personal settings on some equipped cars.
@kevinmarshall184 So one of my cars is pre OBD2 (1996) Is the pos to neg safe for OBD1, or should I just stick with your remove neg & headlight trick? Thanks in advance. 😉
I admire Scotty because of how he presents his material in his videos that make you interested in seeing the complete video with laughter and most of all his wisdom. Thank you Scotty!
Scotty, I just want to say thank you for your help on working on cars, I'm no mechanic but you've helped me in some hard situations with my car. Thank you for being one of the only genuine people left and actually trying to help people. Just know it does help especially with young people like myself.
Hay Scotty, In resetting the PDCM with a resistor, I noticed that you disconnected the positive terminal from the battery first.Yosu even used vice grips to do so.I think that you were putting yourself at risk for creating what could have been a dangerous spark around the battery with explosive gases!! If you had touched any of the negative ground surfaces under the hood this could've happened. I enjoy watching your informative videos and want to keep you SAFE! I feel that you should explain in a video why when working around a battery that you always disconnect the negative cable first on a negative ground vehicle, then the opposite when reconnecting. It would also be a good idea to instruct people to wear safety goggles around batteries, as you only get one set of eyes!! Keep your videos coming, STAY SAFE!
Young ? Not only ❤Linda here turning "71" this month dated a few mechanics so not totally blinded ---- love turning wrenches & figuring out things --- a little mechanically inclined ---- this van I bought engine light came on the day I drive it home 😩I really NEED to talk to Scotty OMG IF WAS CLOSE TO ME I'd TO SEE CAR DOCTOR SCOTTY
I got that wrong too. I always assumed since you connect the positive first when jumping a battery, the same would apply when disconnecting one. A quick google proved you're right on that.
Scotty I have been watching you since you had your show on TV many many years ago! You are my modern day hero! I grow up working on vehicles at my grandfathers gulf station back in the 70's and have been a shade tree mechanic ever since and I m now 62 years young! You have helped me many many times in the years! God Bless You!
LOVE YOU SCOTTY!! GLAD TO SEE YOUR STILL PROVIDING US WITH INFO it is GREATLY NEEDED!! thank you sooo much. i am 1 of the people that NEED your videos because they teach me how to be self sufficient with my own car THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!
Scotty...you are the G.O.A.T 🐐 You casually explain everything in an easy to follow way, your enthusiasm is contagious, and you are an excellent communicator! Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us!!
You are so correct on that resistor. Even though you may remove the ECM, there still is voltage potential in its capacitors. I am a retired electrician so I used to work with things similar to this.I can see if a person shorts the --- and +++ together, that would cause a large inrush of current through all of the electronics from the negative to the positive destroying its solid state components. Just a very slow bleed of electrons going from negative to positive wont hurt any of the surface mount components. Scotty Sir,,,,YOU are the man. I find your podcasts very informative but entertaining as well. BTW, were you an Army paratrooper at one time?
I'd use a 1k ohm resistor. It would be a lot slower to drain any charges, but at 1 ohm if there are any charges built up that might drain them way too fast.v=iR or i=v/R.
Hey Scotty, just wanna say you are a legend! Been learning a lot from your videos and I started watching 10yrs ago. God bless you and I pray you stay healthy and strong so we can keep learning from you. Thank you so much for your wisdom 🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
Around the 4 minute mark, when taking off the batter terminals, you should take the negative off first. The neg is grounded through the frame, and if you attack the positive first and are vigorously twisting with pliers, you might accidentally touch some other metal part electrically connected to the frame and complete the circuit with little internal resistance, resulting in a nice, burning arc. Watches, bracelets and rings are especially dangerous in this case.
@@Steve_K2 I would bet you $1000 bucks he does know the right way to disconnect a battery but he has so much knowledge swirling around in his head that sometimes it bumps into each other and causes a momentary clitch.
Now days we have more electronics installed in our cars that should make our life easier. Instead, it’s an easier profit to those dishonest stealers to ripoff people. Thank you Scotty for your honesty. I’m truck driver and working on all my vehicles myself. Can’t trust no one these days. Thank you for your helpful videos 👍
Blame emissions and government regulations, the manufacturers dont make cars so dealers can make money. As an ex dealer mechanic, you guys always complain even when we fix your diagnose your car for free. You think soending $19k on a Ford that you get free repairs 20 years later when you dont even change the oil.
Yeah, this world needs many more Scotty's, this world would be a better place. Scotty makes complicated things simple, and easy. If only everyone walked in Scotty's footsteps.
Well done, Scotty! When removing the battery cables, be sure to remove the negative cable first, and when reinstalling the cables, install the positive cable first.
@@CreeCarnivore Electrically speaking, it doesn't matter. The reason for removing the negative first is if you should accidentally touch the wrench to ground while it's on the positive terminal, if the negative is still attached. That would be bad. If the negative is removed first, you don't need to be careful when disconnecting the positive.
Sir Scotty!! (Yes, you should be knighted! :D) I just performed this DIY ever-so-affordable "brainwashing" procedure on my 2009 Honda Civic with 317 gazillion miles on it that had a loopy idle after my cleaning the throttle body and she seems to be happily idling at around 650 rpm once again!! Thank you, Man!! So rewarding to have a successful end result.
Scotty you're the greatest. I know this trick because we are at almost the same age. You're right in everything you said here, this is the safe way of reseating the computer in the safest way. Alot of people should listen to your advice and recommendations and specially they should take notes. I thank you on the behalf of the ones who want to learn something, and I recommend you greatly to everybody. Thank you
love your videos but agree with "Vetsus". If the wrench on the positive touches any engine or body metal, you get electric welding and could blow up the battery with the short circuit to ground.. If you remove the negative (ground) first and hit something with the wrench, nothing happens. Once it is off, the positive is no longer chassis-seeking, so you will never short the battery that way.
There's no ground on a car - only a return/common. Now for a twist... some very old school rides [like pre ww2] used positive battery terminal as common.
What a great tip! I wouldn't know even a fraction of what I know about auto mechanics if it wasn't for Scotty Kilmer. You are the best in the business and on TH-cam.
Someone in the comments in the last couple of days was belittling Scotty and claiming there’s lots of bad information on this channel. I beg to differ. 👍🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
A thousand ohms would take days to discharge and it wouldn't need to be 10 watts. But... I think a 12 volt light bulb would be a better way, low resistance when cold and much easier to source. ...and I would never use a ratchet on a battery, always a short wrench.
This is a very handy tip! I take precautions such as this when I work on computers, but it never dawned on me to do the same when working on car systems. It makes me wonder why car manufacturers don't just include a factory reset button as part of the wiring. I'm guessing they don't include a reset because that would make it too easy. And regarding scanners, I did take Scotty's recommendation from a previous video and purchased a ThinkOBD 100 scan tool. The $35 scanner saved us hundreds when we knew roughly what was wrong and found a mechanic who used their $5,000 scanner just to verify and charged us nothing for diagnosis and knew exactly which ignition coil to replace.
Since 1980 there has been no engineer hired by an auto manufacturer that gives a rats ()*71 about any mechanic. They only are concerned with how many cubic feet they have to shove stuff into. And why did automobiles work great up to 1980 and were just fine without computers? Because your government wants your car to run right and that means clean... thank God they care!
I have truly appreciated all your videos over the years. I am so happy that you still share your wonderful knowledge. I don't know what I would do without you Scotty!!!
Get out your ohm meter and check that resistor. According to the side it's a 1000 ohm (1K) not a 1 ohm. A 1 ohm would allow too quick a drain and could damage your ECM. Thanks for the great tip. I didn't even think about shorting the cables (fortunately!). I just leave it alone and go have dinner. I will locate a resistor and probably solder half a clip lead onto each end. Then it goes in the tool box!
Scotty you are the go to expert and have saved my family and friends thousands of dollars as well as peace of mind and understanding. I really wish there was award we could give you. I thank you sir. My father was a great mechanic and would always help or be able to give advice. Now that he’s gone I have been able to fill the gap a little with your great and much appreciated help. Thank you Sir.
Scotty spot on,I and a lot of other factory trained tech should know this ECU or ECM look computer 101. Not every technician is factory certified or trained. There is another way to do this on most not all. After properly disconnecting the cables turn on the headlights for 5 minutes to drain any residual voltage in the entire electrical system. There are fail safes in the circuitry to prevent excessive discharge. The engineers never planned on us shad tree mechanics to figure ways around the proper way or their way.
1 ohm is ridiculously close to a direct short, which Scotty warns against. If you're concerned about a direct short causing a spark and damaging your electronics (I'm not too worried, but whatever), and since most folks don't have a 1 ohm resistor laying around (I do, but I'm weird) just find any incandescent light bulb, from a car or a home, and include it in the circuit. They have a low resistance of a few ohms when initially turned on. Or just use an old fashioned automotive test lamp, which use an incandescent bulb.
@@faradaysage15 Electronic technician here, retired, 37 years repairing an assortment of electronic devices to the component level. Ohms law and I are pals.
Good tip Scotty! Honda Techline still recommends to do this reset but straight cable to cable even up to 2022! We use this procedure to fix everything from gauge issues to back up cameras to multiplex issues!
@@Turbojonny5 I generally don’t code reset in this manner. It is safe. I imagine it would clear the code though, assuming you repaired the problem first. On that generation Accord I would primarily use the battery cable reset procedure to attempt to restore things, as a first step, such as a tachometer or fuel gauge that suddenly stopped working or multiplex controlled faults (such as power windows/door locks), etc.
@@ktl4539 while using a resistor would be ok it just isn’t done at Honda because Techline doesn’t say to. When Techline states a procedure is how it should be done even up to 2022 you do it that way. The non-resistor method is even published in their service procedures. As far as Honda goes there isn’t an epidemic of failing control units because thousands of dealer techs are battery cable resetting without resistors. I cannot speak for non-Honda products though.
Hey Scotty your awesome buddy but I have to point out I always instruct my Airman to always disconnect the negative terminal first. This avoids them from taking a welding class. 👍
Hi Scotty! Just want to say THANK YOU for all the help you've given so many of us! Literally couldn't have done it without you!! My question: I just had a used TIPM installed on my kids Jeep Compass. Everything works as it should except for the heated seats. The shop tells me that the heated seat portion of the TIPM needs to be reconfigured to this car by the dealer for almost $200.00! Will this "RESET" take care of the problem?
Word to the wise scotty failed to mention... Whenever you "reset" your cars ecm, you often will need to preform a idle relearn (not always) and shift adaptation. I learned this back on my 2012 ford fusion, it would never run right after a reset and come to find out the idle relearn in the manual is more than just "drive it"
@@flinch622 With vehicle at a complete stop, set the parking brake. Put gear shifter in "P" (Park), turn off all accessories. Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature. Allow engine to idle for at least one minute. Turn the air conditioning on and allow the engine to idle for at least one minute. Release the parking brake. With your foot on the brake pedal and the A/C still on, put the vehicle in "D" (Drive) and allow the engine to idle for at least one minute. Drive the vehicle to complete the relearning process. Just make sure you drive easy for the first 30 miles, so the PCM can re-learn and adapt to your driving style.
Might want to use a 1,000 Ohm vice 1 Ohm resister. 1 Ohm still gives lot of current when you short the plus and minus sides together. If you do, resister can also be smaller than 10 Watt.
I just posted this to Scotty.. ScotThe Gr8, YOU are correct. Hey Scotty, at the start of the video time index 3:35 you said the resistor is a 10 WATT 1 (one) OHM resistor. Near the end time index 9:30 you show the resistor and it is a 10 WATT 1K ohm. 1K = 1000 OHMS. please let us know which one it is! It most likely what the part shows. 10 watt 1000 ohm. THANKS!
@@edmercer1459 I noticed this the first time I saw this. Does he know what the K means? Not sure. Might be an oversight. I would go with the 1K. I don't even know if they make a 1-ohm resistor? ChatGPT says they do. Go with the 1K. How do we know when the process is finished? Shouldn't we include an ammeter? Did you do this yet?
Hi Scotty, In Australia we always remove the negative (chassis) battery connection first then the positive. Reverse when reconnecting. It is safer just in case you accidently ground the spanner when on the positive terminal with negative still connected....BIG FLASH!!
So many compliments on just loving Scotty and too few comments on educating further on the subject at hand. Scotty is well informed but so are his listeners. I just wish more comments asked pertinent questions. We all know Scotty won't reply personally to us. However, equally well informed followers likely will. This way we can learn even more. Enough already with the Scotty Lovefest 2022. We get it.
yes i know im looking down through the comments to try to see if there is more info but nothing.... I need to know if I do this if I need to go get it reprogrammed?
Thanks Scotty; I used this resistor on my 04 Chevy Silverado 2/19/24. I took it in for the pollution test and it failed, the resistor did to good of a job. I was told to bring it back in a week. It cleaned all the garbage out of the computer And everything else. Thanks
@@wingerrrrrrrrr, is that true? That I could just substitute the resistor with an old turn signal bulb, jumped between the disconnected positive and negative battery cables?
Scotty you just seem like a all around great guy a very smart, well-rounded guy around vehicles with a great sense of humor. I love your videos and thanks for the education.
Wow!!! I was always terrified of doing the old joining battery cables thing, exactly because of all the electronics. Now, I know... Thank you once again Scotty. You are a living, talking treasure.
Based on this information, you could damage your computer if the positive cable contacts any bare metal that is grounded to the frame. Also, I wish you would have disconnected the NEG. Cable before the Positive Cable.
You´re so right Scotty, when I was working in the 80s as an Electronic Tech. I always used a couple of resistors in parallel to discharge Electronic capacitors and other components.
Scotty, you are incorrect, in the video you say at 3:37 "get a 10 watt 1ohm resistor." A 1 ohm resistor is essentially a shunt, which can/will/may cause damage to modules. You need 1K (thousand) ohms minimum, and that's what you are holding in your hand, a 1K ohm resistor.
But then again, if the resistor is 1K ohms (1000 ohms), why would you need a 10W resistor when the maximum power going through this resistor 0,144 watts (power = voltage X current) 12Volts X .012 amps = power. A 1/4 watt 1K resistor would do the job. Using a 1K resistor will drain everything safely, even though it might take a little more time to discharge any of the voltage that is left in the computer module.
@@HorsepowerAddicted You are correct, but the wattage is not the issue here. Using a 10 watt ceramic is simply easier to demonstrate, easier to hold, (gloves cold weather, etc) easier for the folks to see than say a 1/4 watt resistor. The issue here is that he advises the folks after warning them of the dangers of simply shunting the battery cables as a rapid discharge can damage components. There is really no difference in this application btw a 1 ohm resistor and shunting the cables. He also advises to remove the positive cable first. Good practice is to always remove the negative cable first, simply because you may accidently touch the chassis or some ground point with the tool and causing an arc weld if you remove the positive first. The guy is knowledgeable, probably forgot more than I know, but he made mistakes in this video.
Scotty, I recently learned how to read OBD1 codes on my 94 Saturn wagon using a paper clip. The code indicated a bad MAP sensor (34) and upon replacing the sensor, the code disappeared on it’s own. No more CEL.
Hi Scotty, we spent a small fortune on our car, in repairs and the light came back on. Could you please tell us exactly what resistor we need? I'm going to try that. Thank you for all your videos.
Good one Scotty BUT the shop manuals I have say to ALWAYS disconnect the NEGATIVE battery cable BEFORE disconnecting the POSITIVE cable. Note: Both of my vehicles and their shop manuals were made before the year 2000. So things maybe different nowadays with newer cars.
It doesn't harm any electronics or make any difference in that way. It is recommended to remove negative first so you don't accidentally short circuit you wrench against grounded metal engine or frame parts. So its a good habit when it can be done that way. In some cars like mine the battery is installed in such tight space that you have to remove positive first since negative can only be accessed when fuse box and battery cover is removed and battery is pulled forward from under the windshield where the negative terminal is.
I never would have thought of this! Really great idea. 1 ohm is very little, but it makes sense that it would function as spike protection. Those computer modules have a lot of tiny capacitors, and if all of them are allowed to empty simultaneously with no current limit, it could cause many sections of the module to experience current levels WAY higher than they were designed around, courtesy of the current travelling backwards (no fail-safes). With 1 ohm there's at least a concrete limit that makes all the capacitors empty at a consistently lower rate. Amazing stuff, Scotty.
Electrician here woth an EE degree and ex mechanic . That's not how electricity works. Backwards? No. Current yravels from ~n voltage to a lesser voltage, any and all paths it can.
Use a 5W bulb. Yes backwards! The 12V system normally powers the computer, with current flowing into the modules. When the capacitors are discharging, the current is going in the reverse direction. A moden amimeter would show a negative.
Thank you for everything. Spent thousands over the years in repairs until I decided to use youtube university for the majority of maintenance now. Just got myself a bluetooth scanner for my 07 Ridgeline after I took it to the dealer to check out some overheating problem. They wanted over $800 to replace a bad ECT sensor that after looking it up myself, took me 10 minutes to replace and the part was under $20. Completely mad about how many people get ripped off like I almost did. Will forever watch your videos.
That is just one of the reasons why auto dealerships are so distrusted. A few are honest, but your odds are better by using an independent repair shop instead - although many of them are crooked as well. Or have untrained mechanics that shotgun any problem - with you paying for all the parts/time for their failed efforts.
That`s what we like about our 1970 C10 P/U. When you get the dwell right it purrs like a kitten at idle but once throttle is opened it roars like a lion without any computers or complicated electronics. You can set the dwell good enough with a .019 feeler gauge & once engine is running warmed up then you can get dwell setup fairly close by just listening.
Hi Scotty, we spent a small fortune fixing our car and light is on again. This may fix it. Could you tell us what rating resistor we need? I'm going to try this. Thank you for all your videos
When I installed one of those apple car play stereos in my 08 highlander it idled very funny (disconnected batter) for a few days. Made me very nervous. But eventually it went back to normal. Just thought I'd share!
Yes, the ECU has to relearn the idle pattern of the car. Some cars have a procedure to "teach" the ECU in the owner's manual or shop manual. I had to do that on my Dakota after cleaning the battery terminals, before getting the annual emission test.
Scotty, I love watching your videos. You always teach me something. I used to touch the positive to the ground but after watching this I'm not doing that anymore.
Scotty, I hope you live forever. Your knowledge, attitude, and awareness that we DIY guys are either cheap by nature or broke really makes you a special cat in our books.
Great tip, Scotty, but isn’t that a 1K Ohm (1000 Ohm) resistor? That’s what it looks like when I pause the video at 1:35, and look at the writing on the side of it. 1 ohm would be almost the same as if you just touched the battery wires together.
Good observation, I can't tell from the video, but if you consider 12v/1ohm, that's 12 A wow, plus it would be way more than 10W. 12ma would be more like it.
Scotty, great information! But, isn't that resistor a 1Kohm? It looks like is says 1K on it. 1 ohm wouldn't offer much protection for keeping the current spike to a minimum, but 1000 ohm (or 1Kohm) would.
Its a good guideline but it doesn't matter unless you manage to short circuit the tool against metal part (I have done that with tractor haha) It's not even possible in some cars to do it that way. In my car the positive needs to be removed before the fuse box and battery cover and holding screw can be removed then you can slide the battery forward and access the negative terminal because the battery sits length wise in the engine bay with the negative side under the windshield and positive side towards the front of the car so only it is reachable without removing stuff and moving the battery forward.
@@imrileth6618 If you start removing the positive terminal 1st and touch nearby ground, there will be sparks flying... Now, if you remove negative terminal first and touch nearby ground, nothing will happen. Then, with negative terminal removed, when you start removing the positive, and touch nearby ground, there will be no sparks since negative terminal is disconnected from the battery. I always remove negative terminal 1st. I still have all my fingers and all my tools...
As a woman I love learning from Scotty. Specially all the simple things to do like today’s video that I could be myself. I have a question; if I follow the directions in this video on a Ford focus will it reset my admin key? My radio was limited to A low setting on the radio but I lost the admin key. If I reset it will be loud again? Is that is what I would want.
For me Scotty keeps getting half right! When removing the cables to the battery. Most of the time one should remove the neg. (Black) first because if slip and touch the middle of the vehicle it will not cause a major problem like welding the wrench to the frame that would like shorting the red and black cables together. This way you can safely remove the red cable from the battery.
A one ohm resistor would conduct a gentle enough current, starting at a maximum (~12 A) and smoothly drop from there to 0 A when the capacitors are fully discharged.
Odd thought that might be worth spreading around ... Never mess with the Positive battery cable while the Negative battery cable connected? You only have to short the Positive to some piece of metal ONCE to understand why. 😉
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Scotty... always always always remove the negative terminal of the battery FIRST!!! This avoids accidental shorts of your tools to the chassis when removing the positive!!!
Scotty . I have a 2013 Silverado that needs a new FPCM replaced . I read them come already pre programmed ? Can I just replaced old one and put new one on? Some mechanic said they have to pre programmed them .
P
Agree
Scotty, once again..saved my hiney. That little small voice telling me DONT TOUCH HOT N GROUND CABLE TOGETHER cause my car is acting up. Just finished this video and said wow, God knows everything ahead of time😂😂☝️
Scotty, hope you truly do realize just how much you are treasured. Trust me when I say, you have a million admiring fans out here that have your back if ever needed my friend ! Bless you my brother !
Oh he knows❤️
Nearly 5 million now.
Bigger than cnn
He is internationally popular and probably better at solving problems world leaders can’t
@@ald.ackleyvisd6194 he would have every EV owner go dig up his own car batteries resources from the mines😆
Scotty should be inducted into the Mechanic’s Hall of Fame!!!
FACTS!!!!
Definitely, I have learnt so much from Scotty and I have a Toyota Altise 2002-2006 which he covers.
Scotty is a legend
Facts
Ageeedddd!!!
Scotty, Jesus bless you. My husband was a mechanic in his young years but he did all our work on our Toyotas during our marriage - and he watched you too. He went to Heaven 3 months ago and I miss him terribly:'(😢. So, this 62 yr old widow, and my 61 yr old friend (she's a Pastor) watch and learn from you!! I just started watching - my husband and my friend had previous knowledge of you, and my Pastor friend just shared about your site here recently, so I'm watching and learning now!!! Thank you so very much!!!!
That just made me cry a little happy tears. Bless you!! 🙏🏽
God bless you both!
Hope ur doing well my dear much love n heart ..- Ohio-
😮😢
What's the value of the resistor used . Is it 10 , 20 or what ?
What I like about Scotty is that he's not only teaching us car lessons, but life's lesson as well in general.
Puke
Lol he is? 😂 He's just annoying as hell to me.
I am certain I seen him do this same “how to” video on a newer car than this without using a resistor and just hooking the cables together 😂
Scott is the role model of what a mechanic should be. Honesty is the best policy.
hey scotty took picture your resistor say 1k 10 watt not 1 ohm 10 watt as u spoke on air can u tell me which is correct before try on my car from a 72 years hobby garage mechanic and thaks for your years of service and your excellent skills yes i i still own my 68 vette 327 350 hp original 19 years
what did you find out?
Was thinking the same thing since the beginning of the video when he said one ohm. There's no way one ohm is correct. 1 ohm would allow 12 amps to flow. Be safe and use a 1K resistor and it probably doesn't have to be 10 w half a watt should be fine.
@@macntrash yeah, when I heard 1 ohm, that didn't sound right. That would probably melt the leads on the resistor instantly and catch the silicone on fire.
Scotty brings so much to the world of automobiles, this man has blessed me over many years with mountains of automotive repair helps. And as you read the many comments written for Scotty you understand more and more how fortunate we are to have this wonderful guy sharing his time and energy with all of us. God bless you and your loved ones Scotty.
@@BlackSuburban prove it.
Yes! God bless is right.
Ok mate .. now you can lay back & light up a cigarette. 🚬
Simply love Scotty's common sense. Also, his honest, practical approach.
_... love Scotty's common sense._
Between Scotty and Wolfe Pit, a TON of common sense !!!
@@josephgaviota U R my kinda guy
@@BlackSuburban Take your negativism elsewhere.
Good info for older vehicles pre 2003 ish , but be aware. You may accomplish the task of clearing stored codes, however a lot of that information would be helpful to diagnose current issues so your not testing or changing multiple components. Many vehicles store data to set thresholds for components to rely on. If you hard clear your stored data it may take days for your car to set new parameters. With a professional scan tool you can remove unnecessary or multiple issues and save needed data. If necessary I would only remove neg bat terminal with a terminal tool and turn on some lights to drain down stored power in capacitors. If you hard drain the electrical system on some new vehicles you lose data stored for fuel economy and performance curves. Radio, GPS, phone, seat, some keyless entry, and many personal settings on some equipped cars.
@kevinmarshall184 So one of my cars is pre OBD2 (1996) Is the pos to neg safe for OBD1, or should I just stick with your remove neg & headlight trick? Thanks in advance. 😉
You don't find too many honest mechanics like him scotty is a gem .
I think that the resistor you used is 1000 ohms, not 1 ohm. The K means to multiply by 1000 (and the J means + or - 5%).
Scotty, I will say it again, you are amazing and have helped millions of drivers multiple times over.
I learned so much from Scotty this guy is an absolute genius when it comes to cars, love this dude.
Experience is everything
Agreed 👍
Scotty is the Doc. Brown of cars
He's saving us a lot of money 💰
I had to rewatch this vid and take notes---just like school (1-ohm, 10 Watt resistor)
I admire Scotty because of how he presents his material in his videos that make you interested in seeing the complete video with laughter and most of all his wisdom. Thank you Scotty!
Лучше спросите Скотти.
Hi is there any specific type of resistor??thanks
Scotty, I just want to say thank you for your help on working on cars, I'm no mechanic but you've helped me in some hard situations with my car. Thank you for being one of the only genuine people left and actually trying to help people. Just know it does help especially with young people like myself.
Hay Scotty,
In resetting the PDCM with a resistor, I noticed that you disconnected the positive terminal from the battery first.Yosu even used vice grips to do so.I think that you were putting yourself at risk for creating what could have been a dangerous spark around the battery with explosive gases!! If you had touched any of the negative ground surfaces under the hood this could've happened.
I enjoy watching your informative videos and want to keep you SAFE!
I feel that you should explain in a video why when working around a battery that you always disconnect the negative cable first on a negative ground vehicle, then the opposite when reconnecting. It would also be a good idea to instruct people to wear safety goggles around batteries, as you only get one set of eyes!! Keep your videos coming, STAY SAFE!
He makes millions of dollars from TH-cam. He doesn't care about us. He cares about the money.
Young ? Not only ❤Linda here turning "71" this month dated a few mechanics so not totally blinded ---- love turning wrenches & figuring out things --- a little mechanically inclined ---- this van I bought engine light came on the day I drive it home 😩I really NEED to talk to Scotty
OMG IF WAS CLOSE TO ME I'd
TO SEE CAR DOCTOR SCOTTY
@@RDPooh I feel like he's here to help us and youtube
Be seems like an honest guy 😊
I got that wrong too. I always assumed since you connect the positive first when jumping a battery, the same would apply when disconnecting one. A quick google proved you're right on that.
Scotty is a legend not just in the automotive industry but in life in general
Yesss!!!!!
Smith is in the car
Clicked on for the knowledge, stayed because of his energy! His energy is contagious!❤
Scotty I have been watching you since you had your show on TV many many years ago! You are my modern day hero! I grow up working on vehicles at my grandfathers gulf station back in the 70's and have been a shade tree mechanic ever since and I m now 62 years young! You have helped me many many times in the years! God Bless You!
LOVE YOU SCOTTY!! GLAD TO SEE YOUR STILL PROVIDING US WITH INFO it is GREATLY NEEDED!! thank you sooo much. i am 1 of the people that NEED your videos because they teach me how to be self sufficient with my own car THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!
Scotty...you are the G.O.A.T 🐐 You casually explain everything in an easy to follow way, your enthusiasm is contagious, and you are an excellent communicator! Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us!!
You are so correct on that resistor. Even though you may remove the ECM, there still is voltage potential in its capacitors. I am a retired electrician so I used to work with things similar to this.I can see if a person shorts the --- and +++ together, that would cause a large inrush of current through all of the electronics from the negative to the positive destroying its solid state components. Just a very slow bleed of electrons going from negative to positive wont hurt any of the surface mount components. Scotty Sir,,,,YOU are the man. I find your podcasts very informative but entertaining as well. BTW, were you an Army paratrooper at one time?
I'd use a 1k ohm resistor. It would be a lot slower to drain any charges, but at 1 ohm if there are any charges built up that might drain them way too fast.v=iR or i=v/R.
Badbrain3185, would it also be a 10 watt, too?
@@bettepage4856 It all depends on the manufactures design.
Hey Scotty, just wanna say you are a legend! Been learning a lot from your videos and I started watching 10yrs ago. God bless you and I pray you stay healthy and strong so we can keep learning from you. Thank you so much for your wisdom 🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
Around the 4 minute mark, when taking off the batter terminals, you should take the negative off first. The neg is grounded through the frame, and if you attack the positive first and are vigorously twisting with pliers, you might accidentally touch some other metal part electrically connected to the frame and complete the circuit with little internal resistance, resulting in a nice, burning arc. Watches, bracelets and rings are especially dangerous in this case.
They also make battery terminal pullers. The tool won't damage the terminal, like vise grips, and they cost under 8 bucks at USA auto parts stores.
I thought you were right, so I checked a few reputable websites, and you are right. Am surprised Scotty got this wrong.
Yes ground off first. Goes on last.
@@Steve_K2 I would bet you $1000 bucks he does know the right way to disconnect a battery but he has so much knowledge swirling around in his head that sometimes it bumps into each other and causes a momentary clitch.
True.
He also doesnt need to remove the negative terminal.
I've been advised by a mechanic to keep my '99 mazda truck in service because it only has 4 modules. Thanks for the info Scotty
My mechanic ask me if I was selling my 1 owner 98 Taco, I said I would when I wear it out.
Now days we have more electronics installed in our cars that should make our life easier. Instead, it’s an easier profit to those dishonest stealers to ripoff people. Thank you Scotty for your honesty. I’m truck driver and working on all my vehicles myself. Can’t trust no one these days. Thank you for your helpful videos 👍
Blame emissions and government regulations, the manufacturers dont make cars so dealers can make money. As an ex dealer mechanic, you guys always complain even when we fix your diagnose your car for free. You think soending $19k on a Ford that you get free repairs 20 years later when you dont even change the oil.
💯 Agree, not just in the cars. Tech maybe is not working for help people
If you want it done right ya gotta do it yourself
Unless they do this to sale you a car. Look no codes or check engine light. Great car.
Tech is not the help you, tech is there to track you and make you pay more taxes 😮
Yeah, this world needs many more Scotty's, this world would be a better place. Scotty makes complicated things simple, and easy. If only everyone walked in Scotty's footsteps.
Thank you for the excellent and informative video as always. You were using a "1KJ" ohm resistor ( 1,000 ohm ) at 1:35
Well done, Scotty! When removing the battery cables, be sure to remove the negative cable first, and when reinstalling the cables, install the positive cable first.
Yep, Negative off first and reconnected last.
Why did he take the positive off first?
@@CreeCarnivore That's a good question. I'd like to know why Scotty disconnected the positive cable first, too.
Scotty is such a great mechanic he knows better to not ground a hot tool at the positive terminal
@@CreeCarnivore Electrically speaking, it doesn't matter. The reason for removing the negative first is if you should accidentally touch the wrench to ground while it's on the positive terminal, if the negative is still attached. That would be bad. If the negative is removed first, you don't need to be careful when disconnecting the positive.
Sir Scotty!! (Yes, you should be knighted! :D) I just performed this DIY ever-so-affordable "brainwashing" procedure on my 2009 Honda Civic with 317 gazillion miles on it that had a loopy idle after my cleaning the throttle body and she seems to be happily idling at around 650 rpm once again!! Thank you, Man!! So rewarding to have a successful end result.
Awesome! I’ve got an 04 with over 350kazillion miles lol
Scotty you're the greatest. I know this trick because we are at almost the same age. You're right in everything you said here, this is the safe way of reseating the computer in the safest way.
Alot of people should listen to your advice and recommendations and specially they should take notes.
I thank you on the behalf of the ones who want to learn something, and I recommend you greatly to everybody.
Thank you
love your videos but agree with "Vetsus". If the wrench on the positive touches any engine or body metal, you get electric welding and could blow up the battery with the short circuit to ground.. If you remove the negative (ground) first and hit something with the wrench, nothing happens. Once it is off, the positive is no longer chassis-seeking, so you will never short the battery that way.
Good practice to always remove the negative cable first, since it is grounded to the frame and body.
There's no ground on a car - only a return/common. Now for a twist... some very old school rides [like pre ww2] used positive battery terminal as common.
@@juan7559 What the!?!? Quite an incongruous statement
@@juan7559 That will mess up the flux capacitor!
@@flinch622 I've seen at least one modern one that had a positive ground as well. I couldn't believe how dumb that is.
What a great tip! I wouldn't know even a fraction of what I know about auto mechanics if it wasn't for Scotty Kilmer. You are the best in the business and on TH-cam.
I'm from Malaysia. I followed as per instruction. My mercedes w204 c250cgi is now running great. Thanks Scotty.
Someone in the comments in the last couple of days was belittling Scotty and claiming there’s lots of bad information on this channel. I beg to differ. 👍🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Some people like him some haters hates him but man I love this guy.
Scotty for President 2024 🇺🇸
No one can hate scotty he saves people money
The only people that hate Scotty are the dishonest
We women LOVE Scotty!!
We love Scotty too in Canada, he'd be a great replacement for our prime minister Justin Trudea.
I'm a novice mechanic (on my own car of course). I am enjoying your channel. So much useful information. Thank you!
Resistor plainly shows: 10W 1KJ - 1k is 1000 ohms. Big difference from 1 ohm. 1 ohm would basically be a short.
A thousand ohms would take days to discharge and it wouldn't need to be 10 watts. But... I think a 12 volt light bulb would be a better way, low resistance when cold and much easier to source.
...and I would never use a ratchet on a battery, always a short wrench.
Scotty's mouth runs too fast for his brain.
This is a very handy tip! I take precautions such as this when I work on computers, but it never dawned on me to do the same when working on car systems. It makes me wonder why car manufacturers don't just include a factory reset button as part of the wiring. I'm guessing they don't include a reset because that would make it too easy.
And regarding scanners, I did take Scotty's recommendation from a previous video and purchased a ThinkOBD 100 scan tool. The $35 scanner saved us hundreds when we knew roughly what was wrong and found a mechanic who used their $5,000 scanner just to verify and charged us nothing for diagnosis and knew exactly which ignition coil to replace.
His scanner cost $5k. The snap-on scanner that a lot of shops use are $10k.
It isn't a question of too easy. It is a matter of car owners using the button every time they imagined something was wrong with their vehicle.
Since 1980 there has been no engineer hired by an auto manufacturer that gives a rats ()*71 about any mechanic. They only are concerned with how many cubic feet they have to shove stuff into. And why did automobiles work great up to 1980 and were just fine without computers? Because your government wants your car to run right and that means clean... thank God they care!
Where's the money in that everything they do they're doing it to make money eagle
Scotty I have been watching you for YEARS!!! Your knowledge has been invaluable to me! Thanks for putting your knowledge out there for us all!!!
I have truly appreciated all your videos over the years. I am so happy that you still share your wonderful knowledge. I don't know what I would do without you Scotty!!!
Incredible! Much gratitude to Scotty for helping us fix our vehicles correctly, and completely. You are the best Mr Kilmer.
Get out your ohm meter and check that resistor. According to the side it's a 1000 ohm (1K) not a 1 ohm. A 1 ohm would allow too quick a drain and could damage your ECM. Thanks for the great tip. I didn't even think about shorting the cables (fortunately!). I just leave it alone and go have dinner. I will locate a resistor and probably solder half a clip lead onto each end. Then it goes in the tool box!
I agree. A 1 ohm is very close to just ussig a piece of wire.
So which resistor do you recommend?
@@errolrojas3460 it does not matter, if it is 1k, 2k or 10k, even 100 will limit current to 0.1A; I would just switch cabin light on instead :-)
Thats what i was thinking how would 1 ohm work.
So what size resistor is it?
Your fancy 5,000 dollar Scan tool is more than I paid for my matrix(3,700)thanks Scotty
Scotty you are the go to expert and have saved my family and friends thousands of dollars as well as peace of mind and understanding. I really wish there was award we could give you. I thank you sir. My father was a great mechanic and would always help or be able to give advice. Now that he’s gone I have been able to fill the gap a little with your great and much appreciated help.
Thank you Sir.
I love listening to Scotty. He is so knowledgeable, and he raises my spirits.
SCOTTY ROCKS Do I need to say anymore GOD Bless Scotty
Great advice! I knew about the terminal trick, but never considered needing a resistor to slow down the drain.
Scotty spot on,I and a lot of other factory trained tech should know this ECU or ECM look computer 101. Not every technician is factory certified or trained. There is another way to do this on most not all. After properly disconnecting the cables turn on the headlights for 5 minutes to drain any residual voltage in the entire electrical system. There are fail safes in the circuitry to prevent excessive discharge. The engineers never planned on us shad tree mechanics to figure ways around the proper way or their way.
Helpful tip! Thx.
1 ohm is ridiculously close to a direct short, which Scotty warns against. If you're concerned about a direct short causing a spark and damaging your electronics (I'm not too worried, but whatever), and since most folks don't have a 1 ohm resistor laying around (I do, but I'm weird) just find any incandescent light bulb, from a car or a home, and include it in the circuit. They have a low resistance of a few ohms when initially turned on. Or just use an old fashioned automotive test lamp, which use an incandescent bulb.
Where do you buy the resistor
Electrician here, you are wrong.
Ohms law says you're wrong.
@@faradaysage15 Electronic technician here, retired, 37 years repairing an assortment of electronic devices to the component level. Ohms law and I are pals.
Shud make a video....
@Larry Cook Retired EM, but am trained deep into electrical theory. Agree with you.
Good tip Scotty!
Honda Techline still recommends to do this reset but straight cable to cable even up to 2022!
We use this procedure to fix everything from gauge issues to back up cameras to multiplex issues!
So it's safe to do a 2005 Honda Accord (4cyl) straight up + to - code reset?
@@Turbojonny5 I generally don’t code reset in this manner. It is safe. I imagine it would clear the code though, assuming you repaired the problem first.
On that generation Accord I would primarily use the battery cable reset procedure to attempt to restore things, as a first step, such as a tachometer or fuel gauge that suddenly stopped working or multiplex controlled faults (such as power windows/door locks), etc.
Use a 100k Ohm resistor. Much safer. 👍
@@ktl4539 while using a resistor would be ok it just isn’t done at Honda because Techline doesn’t say to. When Techline states a procedure is how it should be done even up to 2022 you do it that way. The non-resistor method is even published in their service procedures.
As far as Honda goes there isn’t an epidemic of failing control units because thousands of dealer techs are battery cable resetting without resistors.
I cannot speak for non-Honda products though.
@@ktl4539 Is the high wattage really necessary?? I have a bunch of resistors but no 10W!!
Thank you very much for your great videos. You make me a better mechanic and I like to help others.
Hey Scotty your awesome buddy but I have to point out I always instruct my Airman to always disconnect the negative terminal first. This avoids them from taking a welding class. 👍
This depends if you have a negative or positive earth electrical system>
Either way, disconnect the earth cable first.
Scotty taught me how to read codes from a Toyota OBD1 port. And now another cheap helpful fix. Thank you very much
Would love to know how!
Hi Scotty! Just want to say THANK YOU for all the help you've given so many of us! Literally couldn't have done it without you!! My question: I just had a used TIPM installed on my kids Jeep Compass. Everything works as it should except for the heated seats. The shop tells me that the heated seat portion of the TIPM needs to be reconfigured to this car by the dealer for almost $200.00! Will this "RESET" take care of the problem?
Word to the wise scotty failed to mention...
Whenever you "reset" your cars ecm, you often will need to preform a idle relearn (not always) and shift adaptation. I learned this back on my 2012 ford fusion, it would never run right after a reset and come to find out the idle relearn in the manual is more than just "drive it"
Good to know. What had to be done?
@@flinch622 With vehicle at a complete stop, set the parking brake.
Put gear shifter in "P" (Park), turn off all accessories.
Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature.
Allow engine to idle for at least one minute.
Turn the air conditioning on and allow the engine to idle for at least one minute.
Release the parking brake. With your foot on the brake pedal and the A/C still on, put the vehicle in "D" (Drive) and allow the engine to idle for at least one minute.
Drive the vehicle to complete the relearning process. Just make sure you drive easy for the first 30 miles, so the PCM can re-learn and adapt to your driving style.
.........ford
If i do the resistor thing he is talking about do i need to take it to get it reprogrammed? I didn't quite understand thanks
@@mommasita9949 that's a load question, what are you trying to do? 100% common questions are answered in your specific owner manual.
Might want to use a 1,000 Ohm vice 1 Ohm resister. 1 Ohm still gives lot of current when you short the plus and minus sides together. If you do, resister can also be smaller than 10 Watt.
I just posted this to Scotty.. ScotThe Gr8, YOU are correct. Hey Scotty, at the start of the video time index 3:35 you said the resistor is a 10 WATT 1 (one) OHM resistor. Near the end time index 9:30 you show the resistor and it is a 10 WATT 1K ohm. 1K = 1000 OHMS. please let us know which one it is! It most likely what the part shows. 10 watt 1000 ohm. THANKS!
@@edmercer1459 I noticed this the first time I saw this. Does he know what the K means? Not sure. Might be an oversight. I would go with the 1K. I don't even know if they make a 1-ohm resistor? ChatGPT says they do. Go with the 1K. How do we know when the process is finished? Shouldn't we include an ammeter?
Did you do this yet?
Hi Scotty,
In Australia we always remove the negative (chassis) battery connection first then the positive. Reverse when reconnecting. It is safer just in case you accidently ground the spanner when on the positive terminal with negative still connected....BIG FLASH!!
But you're in the Southern Hemisphere. You also have Christman in July.
No, it is just in the middle of Summer, not July. @@anonymike8280
Scotty, thank you for melding the old school with the new school. Sometimes the best solution is the simplest one.
So many compliments on just loving Scotty and too few comments on educating further on the subject at hand. Scotty is well informed but so are his listeners. I just wish more comments asked pertinent questions. We all know Scotty won't reply personally to us. However, equally well informed followers likely will. This way we can learn even more. Enough already with the Scotty Lovefest 2022. We get it.
yes i know im looking down through the comments to try to see if there is more info but nothing.... I need to know if I do this if I need to go get it reprogrammed?
Thanks Scotty; I used this resistor on my 04 Chevy Silverado 2/19/24. I took it in for the pollution test and it failed, the resistor did to good of a job. I was told to bring it back in a week. It cleaned all the garbage out of the computer And everything else. Thanks
Like some of the others say in the comments, I think it is a 1K ohm or a 1.3K ohm resistor. Just want people to use the right part.
It was oddly specific to even say 1 ohm 10W, since pretty much anything could be used, old turn signal bulb, headlight, car vac, load tester etc.
@@wingerrrrrrrrr, is that true? That I could just substitute the resistor with an old turn signal bulb, jumped between the disconnected positive and negative battery cables?
Scotty, you’re GREAT! Great on so many levels. Informative, entertaining. The list goes on….
THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!👍🏼
Scotty is THE MAN !! THANK YOU for all you share, I've saved thousands watching your videos.
Scotty, you are loved by so many people. And, well earned. A genuine logical legend.
Scotty just brightens my day! I have learned so much from him. The way he teaches us like if we were his teens is hilarious 😆👍👍👍
Scotty you just seem like a all around great guy a very smart, well-rounded guy around vehicles with a great sense of humor. I love your videos and thanks for the education.
Scotty you are the best. A real hero to the at home mechanic. I don't know what we would do without you. God Bless you my brother.
Wow!!! I was always terrified of doing the old joining battery cables thing, exactly because of all the electronics. Now, I know...
Thank you once again Scotty.
You are a living, talking treasure.
Based on this information, you could damage your computer if the positive cable contacts any bare metal that is grounded to the frame. Also, I wish you would have disconnected the NEG. Cable before the Positive Cable.
You´re so right Scotty, when I was working in the 80s as an Electronic Tech. I always used a couple of resistors in parallel to discharge Electronic capacitors and other components.
Scotty truly cares about his subs so here is yet another thumbs up Scotty. Wish I could give you a million of them for each video your produce : )
thanks Scotty. Youre the north star for for all of us who are trying to figure out where were at with these computer cars
Scotty, you are incorrect, in the video you say at 3:37 "get a 10 watt 1ohm resistor." A 1 ohm resistor is essentially a shunt, which can/will/may cause damage to modules. You need 1K (thousand) ohms minimum, and that's what you are holding in your hand, a 1K ohm resistor.
So, is it 1 ohm or 1k ohm?
But then again, if the resistor is 1K ohms (1000 ohms), why would you need a 10W resistor when the maximum power going through this resistor 0,144 watts (power = voltage X current) 12Volts X .012 amps = power. A 1/4 watt 1K resistor would do the job. Using a 1K resistor will drain everything safely, even though it might take a little more time to discharge any of the voltage that is left in the computer module.
@@HorsepowerAddicted and the characteristics of cables ?
and the characteristics of cables ?
@@HorsepowerAddicted You are correct, but the wattage is not the issue here. Using a 10 watt ceramic is simply easier to demonstrate, easier to hold, (gloves cold weather, etc) easier for the folks to see than say a 1/4 watt resistor. The issue here is that he advises the folks after warning them of the dangers of simply shunting the battery cables as a rapid discharge can damage components. There is really no difference in this application btw a 1 ohm resistor and shunting the cables. He also advises to remove the positive cable first. Good practice is to always remove the negative cable first, simply because you may accidently touch the chassis or some ground point with the tool and causing an arc weld if you remove the positive first. The guy is knowledgeable, probably forgot more than I know, but he made mistakes in this video.
Scotty, I recently learned how to read OBD1 codes on my 94 Saturn wagon using a paper clip. The code indicated a bad MAP sensor (34) and upon replacing the sensor, the code disappeared on it’s own. No more CEL.
Good job!
My 1992 Olds Cutlass ciera is like that.
It worked & I'm moving with more understanding of the whys instead of just doing it. Way to go Scotty!
Hi Scotty, we spent a small fortune on our car, in repairs and the light came back on. Could you please tell us exactly what resistor we need? I'm going to try that. Thank you for all your videos.
Watch again. He specifies the ohms and watts.
1 ohm 10 Watt
Good one Scotty BUT the shop manuals I have say to ALWAYS disconnect the NEGATIVE battery cable BEFORE disconnecting the POSITIVE cable.
Note: Both of my vehicles and their shop manuals were made before the year 2000. So things maybe different nowadays with newer cars.
It hasn't changed. Negative table off first still applies.
It doesn't harm any electronics or make any difference in that way. It is recommended to remove negative first so you don't accidentally short circuit you wrench against grounded metal engine or frame parts. So its a good habit when it can be done that way. In some cars like mine the battery is installed in such tight space that you have to remove positive first since negative can only be accessed when fuse box and battery cover is removed and battery is pulled forward from under the windshield where the negative terminal is.
You have saved me thousands repairing my vehicles, thank you so much.
I never would have thought of this! Really great idea. 1 ohm is very little, but it makes sense that it would function as spike protection. Those computer modules have a lot of tiny capacitors, and if all of them are allowed to empty simultaneously with no current limit, it could cause many sections of the module to experience current levels WAY higher than they were designed around, courtesy of the current travelling backwards (no fail-safes). With 1 ohm there's at least a concrete limit that makes all the capacitors empty at a consistently lower rate. Amazing stuff, Scotty.
Electrician here woth an EE degree and ex mechanic . That's not how electricity works. Backwards? No. Current yravels from ~n voltage to a lesser voltage, any and all paths it can.
Scotty, thanks for all of the great information you share! I've been able to do much more to fix my vehicles now!
Use a 5W bulb.
Yes backwards!
The 12V system normally powers the computer, with current flowing into the modules. When the capacitors are discharging, the current is going in the reverse direction. A moden amimeter would show a negative.
Protect this man at all costs!!!!!
Thank you for everything. Spent thousands over the years in repairs until I decided to use youtube university for the majority of maintenance now. Just got myself a bluetooth scanner for my 07 Ridgeline after I took it to the dealer to check out some overheating problem. They wanted over $800 to replace a bad ECT sensor that after looking it up myself, took me 10 minutes to replace and the part was under $20. Completely mad about how many people get ripped off like I almost did. Will forever watch your videos.
That is just one of the reasons why auto dealerships are so distrusted. A few are honest, but your odds are better by using an independent repair shop instead - although many of them are crooked as well. Or have untrained mechanics that shotgun any problem - with you paying for all the parts/time for their failed efforts.
That's the good thing about a 1975 Chevy Vega - no complex engine computer. And that's the only good thing about a 1975 Chevy Vega.
That`s what we like about our 1970 C10 P/U. When you get the dwell right it purrs like a kitten at idle but once throttle is opened it roars like a lion without any computers or complicated electronics. You can set the dwell good enough with a .019 feeler gauge & once engine is running warmed up then you can get dwell setup fairly close by just listening.
Scotty I love when you fix cars with cheap tools
Hi Scotty, we spent a small fortune fixing our car and light is on again. This may fix it. Could you tell us what rating resistor we need? I'm going to try this. Thank you for all your videos
@@robertberretta364 "10w 1kj Resistor" .. 10 w 1 ohm
Thank you very much. Stay well.
Always disconnect the negative first.. Also Iv'e seen people break the battery terminal loose by using vice grips that are too tight.
When I installed one of those apple car play stereos in my 08 highlander it idled very funny (disconnected batter) for a few days. Made me very nervous. But eventually it went back to normal. Just thought I'd share!
Interesting!
Yes, the ECU has to relearn the idle pattern of the car. Some cars have a procedure to "teach" the ECU in the owner's manual or shop manual. I had to do that on my Dakota after cleaning the battery terminals, before getting the annual emission test.
Scotty, I love watching your videos. You always teach me something. I used to touch the positive to the ground but after watching this I'm not doing that anymore.
And did you ever fry anything? I doubt it.
Scotty, I hope you live forever. Your knowledge, attitude, and awareness that we DIY guys are either cheap by nature or broke really makes you a special cat in our books.
Great tip, Scotty, but isn’t that a 1K Ohm (1000 Ohm) resistor? That’s what it looks like when I pause the video at 1:35, and look at the writing on the side of it. 1 ohm would be almost the same as if you just touched the battery wires together.
Good observation, I can't tell from the video, but if you consider 12v/1ohm, that's 12 A wow, plus it would be way more than 10W. 12ma would be more like it.
I think it's 1KJ, not 1K Ohm
It says "1KJ" which is a 1K Ohm (1000 Ohm) resistor.
Scotty is primarily an entertainer now
@@executive Yeah, pretty much, I don't think he does much actual work anymore. Not easy when you get old though.
Scotty, great information! But, isn't that resistor a 1Kohm? It looks like is says 1K on it. 1 ohm wouldn't offer much protection for keeping the current spike to a minimum, but 1000 ohm (or 1Kohm) would.
I was thinking the same thing, 1ohm is nothing
the spike won't be more than 12V anyway. Harmless.
@@executive Not 12 V is a problem. 12 A is dangerous (12 V/1 ohm=12 A).
@@mirceabarca5828 No. It is not dangerous.
@@executive Not dangerous to people, but dangerous to the delicate electronics you're trying not to zap by shorting the battery terminals together.
Mr. Kilmer thank you your Good will towards vehicle owners is legendary thank you.
Scotty, I know you know this, but many may not. Always disconnect the negative side of the battery first. I learned this years ago.
😲😲😲
True...
Its a good guideline but it doesn't matter unless you manage to short circuit the tool against metal part (I have done that with tractor haha)
It's not even possible in some cars to do it that way. In my car the positive needs to be removed before the fuse box and battery cover and holding screw can be removed then you can slide the battery forward and access the negative terminal because the battery sits length wise in the engine bay with the negative side under the windshield and positive side towards the front of the car so only it is reachable without removing stuff and moving the battery forward.
@@imrileth6618 If you start removing the positive terminal 1st and touch nearby ground, there will be sparks flying... Now, if you remove negative terminal first and touch nearby ground, nothing will happen. Then, with negative terminal removed, when you start removing the positive, and touch nearby ground, there will be no sparks since negative terminal is disconnected from the battery. I always remove negative terminal 1st. I still have all my fingers and all my tools...
As a woman I love learning from Scotty. Specially all the simple things to do like today’s video that I could be myself. I have a question; if I follow the directions in this video on a Ford focus will it reset my admin key? My radio was limited to A low setting on the radio but I lost the admin key. If I reset it will be loud again? Is that is what I would want.
i, too would like to know more about the key. I wonder where we can learn about the key.
Only one way to find out. I ordered a key from Toms Key and that worked on my 2016 Escape. I had only one key.
Do you shave down there?.....😁
You know you want some.
Scotty Kilmer you are a genius. Just used to resister on my car’s battery terminals and it cleared my code that my mechanic never cleared😁😁😁
Fun Fact: Scotty’s 5k scan tool is more expensive than his 94 Cialica
Nut case he is a plonker.
🤔 YUP😊😆
WHAT'S A CIALICA?
@@WHITEBOT2 i think he meant Celica haha....Scottys car would probably fetch more than $5000 at auction because of its provenance
@@WillyEckaslike LOL
For me Scotty keeps getting half right! When removing the cables to the battery. Most of the time one should remove the neg. (Black) first because if slip and touch the middle of the vehicle it will not cause a major problem like welding the wrench to the frame that would like shorting the red and black cables together. This way you can safely remove the red cable from the battery.
I would use a 10 ohm resistor and go down to 5 before going to 1, 1 ohm could still discharge too quickly depending on the computer
Guys, it's 1000 ohm resister, he is holding a 1K resister. 1 ohm is almost a complete short !!!
A one ohm resistor would conduct a gentle enough current, starting at a maximum (~12 A) and smoothly drop from there to 0 A when the capacitors are fully discharged.
@@sabasc3tube 12 Amps? That's "gentle"? These are computerized modules, not soldering irons.
Odd thought that might be worth spreading around ... Never mess with the Positive battery cable while the Negative battery cable connected? You only have to short the Positive to some piece of metal ONCE to understand why. 😉
Scotty, the man I learned so much from this man God bless you Scotty