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How to wire up peco code75 points including the th
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 เม.ย. 2015
- Hello. Here is my guide to wiring up peco code 75 points. In this video I cover the standard left and right as well as the three way point. I'm wiring for DCC but the procedure is the same for traditional DC control. If you find it useful please like and subscribe! If I don't know you like it, I cant make more :)
I'm just starting a new 00 layout so I'll be able to cover most aspects of building a model railway. If there's anything you want to see or you have any questions just send me a message.
Mike
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Just a suggestion: start off by fluxing and tinning the underside of the point as well as fluxing and tinning the dropper wires. Then apply the soldering iron to the tinned wire placed on the tinned rail.
Brilliant video, very informative and at a speed I could understand! Thank you.
Brilliant video & very informative especially snipping the two wires on the underside, thank you!
Best demo on the web, thankyou i found it very daunting until i watched this one , great stuff thanks for sharing
+BigBountyHunter Thank you! Your more than welcome.
+BigBountyHunter Love the avatar btw :)
Thank you for this informative video, I feel more at ease to tackle my own!
I guess im asking randomly but does anybody know a method to log back into an instagram account??
I somehow lost my login password. I appreciate any tips you can offer me!
thankyou for the really simple explanation about wiring the 3way. extremely helpful.
Leo Feaver No problem, glad it was of use :) Thanks for watching.
Thankyou. if only I had a soldering iron. have you ever wired a seep pm1 point motor? I'm a bit lost regarding the DCC earth. I get that DCC +- go to the accessory bus wire but that's about it.
Hello. The SEEP PM1 is simple enough. Its divided into two block of three. Three for the point motor its self and three for the switch aspect.
The motor.
The motor uses tabs A,B and C.
A&B go to the switch legs positive and negative. It doesn't matter which. C is the common return. Simple to remember, C for Common.
The switch.
The switch uses tabs D,E and F.
D&E are the switch legs that power the frog and change its polarity. These are the two that are connected to you DCC bus.
F is connected to the frog and when the switch is activated will connect to E or D and supply the correct polarity to it.
Again simple to remember. F for Frog
I now work self employed doing this for a living. If you wish I can pre wire these for you and connect them to terminal blocks. Same with your points. That way there's no soldering for you to do, you just have to connect the colour coded wires via grub screws :)
One of the best Peco electrofrog wiring demos that I have seen. Yes do a video on the double slip if it is not too late.
+Melton Pieman
Hello. Sorry for the late reply, I've had trouble posting comments on youtube. I'm glad you liked it :) I'll have a look around for a double slip at a decent price and do you wiring guide, no problem. If you have any requests for sections of track or any other layout wiring just ask!
Looks easy, will do it this way when I wire my code 75 points. Now to try and get my head around the electrofrog short crossing
+Benjamin Lord Thank you for the sub and compliment. I don't actually model 00 any more as I've gone back to N. But if I can get hold of a short crossing at a reasonable price I'll put up a new wiring guide for you :)
Really useful video! I have subscribed!
Why thank you! I really must do a slips video.
@@Night_Ferry That would be good! I have a quick question - I'm just installing a point on a fiddle yard, and trying to keep costs down I'm going to just switch it by hand. I'm using an electrofrog point, is there a way to wire it up without a frog polarity switch?
@@stmichaelshill7421 Hello. If you are just using it for a fiddle yard and you dont need the polarity switching then all you need to do is add the insulated rail joiners to the inner V of the points. No need for the centre feed on the frog. This will however create a dead section on the point much like plastic frogs. Not an issue of you are running bogie diesels or larger steam locomotives with tender pickups. However if you are using small locomotives I would recommend wiring for polarity switching or using insulated frog points, its actually a shorter dead section in that case.
@@Night_Ferry Thanks - that's what I was thinking but was looking into it too much - I'll try it out and see how it goes! Thanks for the reply, much appreciated
I think the pecos are the best as switches and crosses because they have a non-plastic heart, so there is no loss of signal at that point
+Gary Stevens The surface mounted motors can only control the movement of the point. You will need a separate switch for the polarity changing. The basic PL10 point motor doesn't have this function either, but it does have a separate switch available that joins on the bottom. Sadly the PL11 doesn't have this option. All you need is a basic on-on switch. Connect the the frog tobthe centre and the feeds to either side. If using peco components you can joint a momentary contact switch and on-on together using the bars they sell. That way you'll pull them together and solve your problem.
Hi... very Helpful Video...
Hope you are doing well and that you are still in Model Railroading after all these years.
Question: If i am using remote dowel rods with approx .6 piano wire to throw my switches, where do I run the remaining power wire from the FROG? I am only confused about that part as I will not be using any electro switches.
Note: I understand the the drop feeders for the as I use them on my layout.
Just trying to find out what to do with powering the frog or if its still needed?
Thanks Much... Hope someone answers my question.😊
Hello. Assuming you are using a sliding switch of the on-on variety it's exactly the same. The three poles under the switch will fill in for the motor. The centre common pin will be the frog with the two outside pins being for the running rails. If you drill a hole through the toggle for the piano wire don't forget to add a Z shaped bend in the wire before it goes into the tube for a bit of compensation :)
Hi Nigel
Have a question to ask, I have a double/single slip crossings and having trouble understanding the Peco paperwork on how to wire them up; So please can you help me out,
The crossings are code 100 insulfrog and do not show any loose wiring like shown on the youtube.
just showing the top of the crossing - not the underneath {Please help me out}
Greta video; a question I can't find an answer too anywhere, how do you switch frog polarity if you aren't using a point motor?
If you aren't using a motor you will still need to wire it to a sliding switch. Normally ON-OFF-ON. I believe most people do it mechanically via a wire in tube or a micro switch mounted besides the point. That stops the point being set one way and the polarity the other.
Nigel Woodgate
Please can you show me how to wire up a double/single slip crossings for DCC operation
my crossing do not have any loose silver wires like the Peco points!
Thanks fnp90rd. I found your explanation of wiring a point to be just what I needed for my new layout. I am still uncertain, however, what to do with the wire at the frong end. What do I connect it to?
+James Graham
Hello, and thank you for the compliment :)
In answer to your question the frog wire is connected in turn to each of the rail feeds. You do this by either connecting it to a point motor with a dedicated built in switch like the SEEP PM1, (full instructions are included) or a stand alone switch if your points are controlled by wire in tube or hand. I hope this helps. If you have any further questions feel free to ask as many as you need ;)
I have just come across your video for wiring up electro-frog for peco code75. Does this a ply for peco sl-99 turnout?
Please advise.
Hello. The principal applies, you just have three frogs to wire instead of two. With the two outside running rails that will give you five feeds in total.
Hi Just got into N guage. I have got the wiring sorted but it is the Insulating joiners that confuse me. Its a very simple layout with a Y point with a left and right hand point facing towards the Y point. Hope this is clear, Now i know the inner V must have insulating joiners on is there anywhere else they must be placed
Robin Poulton Just place them on the inner V of all points and connect as normal :) So if you had two points forming a crossover there would be a total of four IRJ's. Hope that helps.
Yup helps a lot thanks
I forgot to ask whether you have recorded wiring a double slip turnout in code 75!
leslebreton Thanks for the comment. I haven't yet but it's simply two points back to back compressed. Its a frog at each end and the sides, so it's divided into four sections instead of three on a standard point. I can upload a video if you want, just need to get hold of a double slip on the cheap as I model N personally. I just wish I knew why the dislike guys disliked the video :)
So with the way you have wired this you dont need insulating track joiners????
kenneth robertson Regardless of wether your changing polarity or not, you must always use insulated joiners on the inner V. Hope that helps ;)
Many Thanks for the info.
I dont suppose you would know how to wire Peco PL 11 surface mounted point motors upto a peco SL - E99 3 way point. All the stuff on line is not relevant because no one talks about the PL 11 which along with the hornby surface mounted point motor, is what I am using. Even Peco's own witing diagram doesnt help. They talk about accessory switches PL 13 or PL 15 which I assume is another way of saying point motor. So all the different terminology doesnt help. So basiclly I have 3 wires from the PL 11 or the Hornby R8423 its easy with normal points but with these stupid Electrofrog SL E99 I havent got a clue. How do the wires built into the SL E99 fit into the wiring in simple terms, does any body know? Appreciate any feedback.
Sorry, had trouble with a direct reply. I left your answer above. Hope that helps, let me know if you need more info or a parts list.
Like the video... but still can't get my head round why you have to snip the in-situ connections...and why do you leave such long lengths of wire..what is the reason for this, the power is already going to the points via the track isn't it.. sorry for being a bit stupid but I ma not the best at understanding wiring .....
+rodderss52
Hello. Glad you liked it. I actually posted this for a member of a forum, I didn't realise so many people would watch it! In response to your question... If you pause the video right at the beginning you can get a good look at the points. the two breaks in the rail just before the V are where the two small wires are below the rail. If theses are left connected then the third wire added to power the point will cause a short in one direction. The idea is to have the frog independently powered so your not relying on the switch blades to carry the power. The longer wires on the side connect to a point motor for the polarity switching. Yes your correct, they do the same job as the regular track wires. But the idea is that you wire the point as it own section of track. That way you will have perfectly reliable running with even the smallest of locomotives. If you have any other questions just let me know and I'll do my best to answer :)
+fnp90rd Thanks I will.... and thanks for the video by the way, I am just starting out and I am using N Gauge.. I am an oldie but it is keeping my mind active... wish I had started years ago.... keep your videos coming.
rodderss52 Well your in luck! I'm also switching back to N gauge so if you need N gauge specific wiring guides that will be easier for me :)
I'll stick to my Bachmann EZ track, much simpler
But less reliable.
I don’t see any of this work necessary.