It never made sense that they sell filament by the weight rather than the meter. As you pointed out, the densities are different. My 1KG ASA rolls are almost always right at the edge of the roll, fuller than any PLA or PETG rolls.
Take a benchy for example. I can't measure how much length of filament it took to make. But instead how many grams. Likewise a spools length matters little as it's being extruded through nozzles of varying sizes.
I worked for a resin manufacturing/3d printing company and the reason given when I asked why we always sell 1kg of each resin instead of full bottles was that it was defined by the shipping label and selling by the kg makes that much simpler for all parties involved (except the consumer I suppose)
Q1: Any brand that will print well on my MagnetoX Q2: Any material that will print well on my MagnetoX Thank you for this great resource on filament. Keep up the good work!
My two favorite brands so far are Tinmorry and Siraya Tech. Tinmorry makes amazing PETG-CF and PETG-GF. Siraya Tech makes great engineering filaments and their 85A TPU performs great for me. I also like Eryone for their cost to performance. I've had good luck with most brands I've purchased. I have some Polymaker Fiberon series filament I'm excited to test out too.
Keep in mind that many of the plastic base material is sourced from the same factory for many brands. And secondly, even the filament produced in one factory is then rebranded half a million times before it reaches end consumer. So next time, you will have a need to argue with your friend about which brand is best, remember, that they both can be not only from the same factory, but also from the exact same chemical plant making the material.
You're right. But I think especially the bigger brands, like Prusament, Sunlu or Bambu, but also local manufacturers do make their own filament with their own blends.
Nice video. I am surprised that eSun is not even in top10 in chart at the end. About impact test, very often manufacturer include Charpy impact test, but they forget to mention its a Charpy (supported from 2 sides, resulting bigger impact load)
yeah esun is pretty big and they have a wide selection. regarding impact tests, they sometimes also use some units other than kJ/m2 which doesn't make any sense.
I find it depends on what type of plastic as to which brand is best. Polymaker PETG, for example, can be an absolute pain to print with and is very sticky and has additives that cause it to be more oozey. Meanwhile, their PLA and ASA are great, print exactly how you expect those plastics to print. Prusa, on the other hand, has amazing PETG, performs perfectly and as expected (haven't tried other plastics, not available in Canada). So it completely depends on the type of plastic and then the brand.
I think my favorite color of filament is Overture Army Green PETG. It's a gorgeous color. I don't really have a go-to brand or type because it all depends on the application and desired color. To do a lithophane or filament painting, Bambu PLA because my X1C with 2 AMS units just automatically works and the settings are already known quantities for transmission distance, flow rate and color.
I build and sell huge, powerful 3D printed nerf blasters. My go to filament is CC3D PLA MAX PLUS, also sold as HZST3D PLA Plus The stuff is cheap and rigid without being brittle and is perfect for the high abuse applications I put it under. I've printed about 150 spools of it in the last couple of years and I'm not sure what I would switch to if it disappeared. Runner up is Esun PLA+
I'm just starting out and I can already tell it will be extremely application dependent. Right now I'm using a bunch of matte PLA, PET-G HF and Translucent PET-G because I'm making boxes and drawers for my modeling stuff, and PLA and PET-G have a really low coefficient of friction against each other. However, I need to make about a zillion arms and shoulder pads to magnetize my Grey Knights, and I'm told the Sunlu PLA Meta makes the most detailed prints. I've got a spool and will start experimenting with it once the drawers and a PLA prototype dreadknight are done. So yeah, I think I'm going to be using a lot of different materials as I get further into this.
PolyMaker definitely seems like a solid brand, tho I'll usually go for whatever is cheap (not too cheap; I have several from inland as well) and easily accessible if I don't need some special color; if I do I'm kind of at the mercy of whatever I find..
Q1: Polymaker Q2: PLA for cosmetic parts CF PETG for functional Also I have had the same experience with limonene and abs/asa. I've also found that using HIPS/polycarbonate together in multimaterial systems drastically degrades the strength of PC even without limonene.
I mostly buy eSun, Sunlu and Polymaker, because they are similiar in price and on the lower side of that, whilst I never had problems printing with them. I often notice a weaker color in these, compared to like Prusament, but this is also not always the case. PETG Signal white from Prusa is way more white than any other white PETG I own, but the "Signal" in the same indicates that. I'm yet to find a filament that can compete with Galaxy black.
A question like this is going to end up fairly subjective IMO, there will be objective things the people using these filaments will extract from using them, but once many try a few, get burned by some others, then preferences tend to start forming from there. The only 2 I've even used from that pie-chart are hatchbox and overture. I can't even use the overture half the time, because the fumes it makes are kinda obnoxious for 'PLA'.. no idea why it off-gasses as much as it does compares at normal temps, compared to all the other off-brand ones I've tried.. yet is one of the frequently praised ones? So again just one of my (subjective) experiences, vs others.
For me my go to's are sunlu and creative pla's bang for the buck wise and also availability... And don't hit me but for petg it's the Amazon brand... Prints great on my K1C..
i feel like this question is so difficult to answer because it is heavily influenced by the use-case for a particular part. most people tend to stick to the materials that are most applicable to their primary use case. i pretty much never use PLA or PETG. my main projects require high rigidity, high heat resistance, and/or high tensile strength. so i mainly use ABS, ABS-GF/CF, PC, PC-CF, PET-CF, etc. high temp - high strength. i feel that this survey is missing the crucial "what is your primary use-case?" question. my opinion: sure, i understand that this isn't meant to be a concrete result of your survey - but it is more misleading in my opinion. maybe i am biased, but i do not like polymaker. they only have 2 main positives for me & theyre consistency & availability. polymaker ABS is definitely not pure ABS - my main issue with polymaker is that everything they make is a blend. when i am buying ABS, i am not looking for a PETG-ABS blend like polymaker has. blends are the biggest frustration when buying filament in my experience. i praise atomic filament for their insanely high quality ABS, but it seems like there are very few brands that manufacture genuinely pure filaments as they are advertised.
@@mrrooter601 I agree, it's sure not my go-to but agreat filament. Friends of mine even got to recycle old PET-CF (from BASF filaments), works like a charm!
Whatever is the cheapest PLA in a color I like with at least a tolerance of 0.03 (preferably 0.02) and good windings. If I need something that has to handle slightly higher temperatures I go with PETG (same requirements as PLA). I stay away from ABS/ASA because I would have to print outside and people put way too much trust into insufficient filters. CF prints ideally need to be coated in something to be "save" to touch which everyone also happily ignores. Besides from 3d printed stuff there isn't a single commercial carbon fiber thing out there that is not coated in resin with zero exposed fibers.
you dont need to print outside. i have my printer in a closet that i sealed with gaskets around the door & a 3 stage filter with a VOC meter. it is not ideal, and i replace the filter monthly, but the VOC management is much better than i thought. it peaks after about 40 mins of printing & is mostly filtered out after an hour once complete. also, there are plenty of filaments that hold fibers in the core of the filament very well. phaetus aeworthy abs-gf is my all time favorite for that - fibers dont stick out.
@ Sure that works and with a proper activated charcoal filter that gets replaced regulary you can make it work but for most people just not printing inside is easier and cheaper. Either way I am pretty sure that almost everyone who prints abs/asa does it in an unsafe way. Same with cf, most just don't care or know about the exposed fibers
Q1: Azurefilm for color prints, for gray/white whatever I find in bulk for 10eur per kg Q2: PLA For color filament I like to go to store and get it there, so I can see what I'm buying.
@@HannesMrg I'm from Slovenia. There is Azurefilm store in Ljubljana. Store is small part of their office/production space. All filaments at the store are also cheaper then online. Last time PLA was 15eur.
The best visually appealing filament is cookiecad PLA, The most consistent filament is BAMBU, poly maker is a great filament for the price, and worst is prusa.
An NDA prevents me from disclosing what company I worked for but they are a VERY large company that runs about 60 FDM printers 24/7 and has used and extensively tested every filament brand out there. The worst price-quality ratio filament is unfortunately PRUSA filament. @@riba2233
I love the Overture Rock series PLA and their PLA matte series and pro series. I find the rock series in marble or the red tan combos look amazing on statues and also mountain type scenery or even for things like a gridfinity large storage box. These are very nice high quality filaments. I also like many of the filaments made by Qidi and Siraya tech. ABSGF25 being one of my favorites. I have to be honest the Polymaker stuff has not really impressed me much on some of the rolls I have tried out. I just got in a bunch of Anycubic PLA in grey which I use all the time just a great all around general purpose filament. I have a few new brands that I have yet to test out, but snatched up a few dozen rolls of various PETG and PLA filaments to test out. I tried out some PETG from Creality recently and was not impressed. Most of the stuff out there seems ok, but I do have certain brands that I stick with, most of the stuff I actually print is higher grade engineering type filaments, ABS is still my favorite all around filament and most used one along with ASA.
This is a stupid video. I guessed Polymaker before I clicked on the video, skipped to the end, and got it right. By this metric, you are rating brands based on Amazon search listing optimization (availability and pricing), not any technical merits.
I agree, the video isn’t perfect. But one of my main goals was to teach how to properly compare filaments to NOT get influenced by search optimisation/marketing. You skipped through the video so you probably didn’t see when I showed how to properly compare prices, clarify various misconceptions and talk about datasheets.
@Remus1033 I will rethink about the title and thumbnail. It’s truly not about clickbait. I just wanted to get some insights from the community and other creators while explaining important things to consider when actually comparing filaments based on facts, such as TDS.
What I dislike is chinese brands, Sunlu is good and fine but their specs are always useless. On every site and shop or spool they list difference print settings. From documentation to distribution, it's horrible while the filament itself is good. I mean, some shops have colors they dont even have on their own site ! Same as Creality printers, parts from Ali Creality shop but nowhere to find on the offical site. They just can't make it reliable from source of purchase to settings, guess business in Asia is different.
First off - I don't know why anybody still prints with ABS and PETG when ASA and PCTG exist. They're just objectively better. Secondly - those tasty Polymaker ad dollars make me very sus about any TH-camrs' stated brand preference. Thirdly - great channel, keep the videos coming! 😄
they are better but there is always a but. price, selection, availability, and from my experience petg prints slighly nicer than pctg if you care about aesthetics.
1. I personally prefer ASA over ABS too, but PCTG is a different material imo, its more expensive and a bit harder to print. 2. I asked for their honest opinions but some might certainly be influenced by theirs sponsors. 3. Thanks! Will do ;)
ABS is probably the cheapest filament I print. Usually around $15/kg, sometimes a little less. ASA is almost always significantly more. I wouldn't pick it for this reason, but ASA also doesn't adhere to any smooth plate I am aware of without some kind of adhesive. ABS works great on my PEX plate. Adhesives are messy to deal with.
@@RichFreeman I have found that high temp garolite ("G11"), wet sanded with ~600 grit, works really well with ASA. You have to run it a little hotter; I usually have it around 110-115C. I've run dozens of kg of ASA with flawless bed adhesion this way and no adhesives. I've long since abandoned PEX as a print surface. I never found that it worked any better than PEI.
@@nikwoac I'll have to try that - I have a Garolite plate (though it is G10 - not sure if that will create problems at 110 though I've probably already run it at that temp for Nylon). I don't have a decent smooth PEI sheet so I haven't tested as much with that.
Very disappointing video. A big middle finger to the entire thought of any kind of scientific or useful information. But I guess it's worth it to get those clicks, huh?
I appreciate your honesty. While the community poll and content creator interviews are indeed not scientific at all, I think the rest is. 60% of the video is about scientific facts, such as how carbon fibres really improve filaments. While most people say things like „CF filaments makes your parts stronger“ I at least tried to explain it. Second, this video didn’t make a lot a of clicks. in fact, I made way more with scientific videos, such as in-depth material analysis. I still get your point and will work on more scientific videos!
Hard to print and clog? I never print PLA but it's by far the easiest to print and has significantly less of a chance to clog vs most other filaments out there. 😂
Subscribe or your nozzle will clog!
If only permanently preventing that was so easy..
It never made sense that they sell filament by the weight rather than the meter. As you pointed out, the densities are different. My 1KG ASA rolls are almost always right at the edge of the roll, fuller than any PLA or PETG rolls.
I think 1KG is better for shipping, as every Roll of Material weighs the same like that.
Take a benchy for example. I can't measure how much length of filament it took to make. But instead how many grams. Likewise a spools length matters little as it's being extruded through nozzles of varying sizes.
I worked for a resin manufacturing/3d printing company and the reason given when I asked why we always sell 1kg of each resin instead of full bottles was that it was defined by the shipping label and selling by the kg makes that much simpler for all parties involved (except the consumer I suppose)
Q1: Any brand that will print well on my MagnetoX
Q2: Any material that will print well on my MagnetoX
Thank you for this great resource on filament. Keep up the good work!
My two favorite brands so far are Tinmorry and Siraya Tech. Tinmorry makes amazing PETG-CF and PETG-GF. Siraya Tech makes great engineering filaments and their 85A TPU performs great for me. I also like Eryone for their cost to performance. I've had good luck with most brands I've purchased. I have some Polymaker Fiberon series filament I'm excited to test out too.
Keep in mind that many of the plastic base material is sourced from the same factory for many brands. And secondly, even the filament produced in one factory is then rebranded half a million times before it reaches end consumer. So next time, you will have a need to argue with your friend about which brand is best, remember, that they both can be not only from the same factory, but also from the exact same chemical plant making the material.
You're right. But I think especially the bigger brands, like Prusament, Sunlu or Bambu, but also local manufacturers do make their own filament with their own blends.
Nice video. I am surprised that eSun is not even in top10 in chart at the end. About impact test, very often manufacturer include Charpy impact test, but they forget to mention its a Charpy (supported from 2 sides, resulting bigger impact load)
yeah esun is pretty big and they have a wide selection. regarding impact tests, they sometimes also use some units other than kJ/m2 which doesn't make any sense.
@@riba2233 in US they use often kJ/m (thickness of test objects) ASTM. The ISO standard is in kJ/m² (cross section area).
@@MyTechFun yes and I totally don't understand how kJ/m should be calculated while /m2 makes sense :D
Thanks for adding this and participating in the video!
@@riba2233 Same, kJ/m feels strange.
I find it depends on what type of plastic as to which brand is best.
Polymaker PETG, for example, can be an absolute pain to print with and is very sticky and has additives that cause it to be more oozey. Meanwhile, their PLA and ASA are great, print exactly how you expect those plastics to print.
Prusa, on the other hand, has amazing PETG, performs perfectly and as expected (haven't tried other plastics, not available in Canada).
So it completely depends on the type of plastic and then the brand.
I think my favorite color of filament is Overture Army Green PETG. It's a gorgeous color. I don't really have a go-to brand or type because it all depends on the application and desired color. To do a lithophane or filament painting, Bambu PLA because my X1C with 2 AMS units just automatically works and the settings are already known quantities for transmission distance, flow rate and color.
Great brand nobody knows about...Ziro. I really like their PLA.
I build and sell huge, powerful 3D printed nerf blasters.
My go to filament is CC3D PLA MAX PLUS, also sold as HZST3D PLA Plus
The stuff is cheap and rigid without being brittle and is perfect for the high abuse applications I put it under.
I've printed about 150 spools of it in the last couple of years and I'm not sure what I would switch to if it disappeared.
Runner up is Esun PLA+
I'm just starting out and I can already tell it will be extremely application dependent.
Right now I'm using a bunch of matte PLA, PET-G HF and Translucent PET-G because I'm making boxes and drawers for my modeling stuff, and PLA and PET-G have a really low coefficient of friction against each other.
However, I need to make about a zillion arms and shoulder pads to magnetize my Grey Knights, and I'm told the Sunlu PLA Meta makes the most detailed prints. I've got a spool and will start experimenting with it once the drawers and a PLA prototype dreadknight are done.
So yeah, I think I'm going to be using a lot of different materials as I get further into this.
PolyMaker definitely seems like a solid brand, tho I'll usually go for whatever is cheap (not too cheap; I have several from inland as well) and easily accessible if I don't need some special color; if I do I'm kind of at the mercy of whatever I find..
Q1: Polymaker
Q2: PLA for cosmetic parts CF PETG for functional
Also I have had the same experience with limonene and abs/asa. I've also found that using HIPS/polycarbonate together in multimaterial systems drastically degrades the strength of PC even without limonene.
Thanks for adding this!
I mostly buy eSun, Sunlu and Polymaker, because they are similiar in price and on the lower side of that, whilst I never had problems printing with them. I often notice a weaker color in these, compared to like Prusament, but this is also not always the case. PETG Signal white from Prusa is way more white than any other white PETG I own, but the "Signal" in the same indicates that. I'm yet to find a filament that can compete with Galaxy black.
A question like this is going to end up fairly subjective IMO, there will be objective things the people using these filaments will extract from using them, but once many try a few, get burned by some others, then preferences tend to start forming from there. The only 2 I've even used from that pie-chart are hatchbox and overture. I can't even use the overture half the time, because the fumes it makes are kinda obnoxious for 'PLA'.. no idea why it off-gasses as much as it does compares at normal temps, compared to all the other off-brand ones I've tried.. yet is one of the frequently praised ones? So again just one of my (subjective) experiences, vs others.
I use sunlu because its cheap and does the job.
Same sunlu and creative are my go to except for petg than it's Amazon brand...
For me my go to's are sunlu and creative pla's bang for the buck wise and also availability... And don't hit me but for petg it's the Amazon brand... Prints great on my K1C..
i feel like this question is so difficult to answer because it is heavily influenced by the use-case for a particular part. most people tend to stick to the materials that are most applicable to their primary use case. i pretty much never use PLA or PETG. my main projects require high rigidity, high heat resistance, and/or high tensile strength. so i mainly use ABS, ABS-GF/CF, PC, PC-CF, PET-CF, etc. high temp - high strength.
i feel that this survey is missing the crucial "what is your primary use-case?" question.
my opinion:
sure, i understand that this isn't meant to be a concrete result of your survey - but it is more misleading in my opinion. maybe i am biased, but i do not like polymaker. they only have 2 main positives for me & theyre consistency & availability. polymaker ABS is definitely not pure ABS - my main issue with polymaker is that everything they make is a blend. when i am buying ABS, i am not looking for a PETG-ABS blend like polymaker has. blends are the biggest frustration when buying filament in my experience. i praise atomic filament for their insanely high quality ABS, but it seems like there are very few brands that manufacture genuinely pure filaments as they are advertised.
it is certainly not a petg+abs blend, it is something else in it. it can just be a different ratio of it's a, b and s components.
pet-cf is so underrated
@@mrrooter601 yep, 100%! I assume we will see a lot more of it in the future.
@@mrrooter601 I agree, it's sure not my go-to but agreat filament. Friends of mine even got to recycle old PET-CF (from BASF filaments), works like a charm!
Q1: colorFabb
Q2: PLA/PHA and PHA
Sunlu
PETG
Whatever is the cheapest PLA in a color I like with at least a tolerance of 0.03 (preferably 0.02) and good windings. If I need something that has to handle slightly higher temperatures I go with PETG (same requirements as PLA).
I stay away from ABS/ASA because I would have to print outside and people put way too much trust into insufficient filters. CF prints ideally need to be coated in something to be "save" to touch which everyone also happily ignores. Besides from 3d printed stuff there isn't a single commercial carbon fiber thing out there that is not coated in resin with zero exposed fibers.
you dont need to print outside. i have my printer in a closet that i sealed with gaskets around the door & a 3 stage filter with a VOC meter. it is not ideal, and i replace the filter monthly, but the VOC management is much better than i thought. it peaks after about 40 mins of printing & is mostly filtered out after an hour once complete.
also, there are plenty of filaments that hold fibers in the core of the filament very well. phaetus aeworthy abs-gf is my all time favorite for that - fibers dont stick out.
@ Sure that works and with a proper activated charcoal filter that gets replaced regulary you can make it work but for most people just not printing inside is easier and cheaper. Either way I am pretty sure that almost everyone who prints abs/asa does it in an unsafe way. Same with cf, most just don't care or know about the exposed fibers
that think about CF is just not true.
Q1: Azurefilm for color prints, for gray/white whatever I find in bulk for 10eur per kg
Q2: PLA
For color filament I like to go to store and get it there, so I can see what I'm buying.
Wait.. There are stores that sell filament? Where can you find them? (I have never seen one around where I live)
@@HannesMrg I'm from Slovenia. There is Azurefilm store in Ljubljana. Store is small part of their office/production space. All filaments at the store are also cheaper then online. Last time PLA was 15eur.
The best visually appealing filament is cookiecad PLA, The most consistent filament is BAMBU, poly maker is a great filament for the price, and worst is prusa.
did you have bad experience with prusa?
An NDA prevents me from disclosing what company I worked for but they are a VERY large company that runs about 60 FDM printers 24/7 and has used and extensively tested every filament brand out there. The worst price-quality ratio filament is unfortunately PRUSA filament. @@riba2233
I love the Overture Rock series PLA and their PLA matte series and pro series. I find the rock series in marble or the red tan combos look amazing on statues and also mountain type scenery or even for things like a gridfinity large storage box. These are very nice high quality filaments. I also like many of the filaments made by Qidi and Siraya tech. ABSGF25 being one of my favorites. I have to be honest the Polymaker stuff has not really impressed me much on some of the rolls I have tried out. I just got in a bunch of Anycubic PLA in grey which I use all the time just a great all around general purpose filament. I have a few new brands that I have yet to test out, but snatched up a few dozen rolls of various PETG and PLA filaments to test out. I tried out some PETG from Creality recently and was not impressed. Most of the stuff out there seems ok, but I do have certain brands that I stick with, most of the stuff I actually print is higher grade engineering type filaments, ABS is still my favorite all around filament and most used one along with ASA.
I've had really good luck with eryone
Beautiful Rotring 800 tho.
This is a stupid video. I guessed Polymaker before I clicked on the video, skipped to the end, and got it right. By this metric, you are rating brands based on Amazon search listing optimization (availability and pricing), not any technical merits.
Exactly. Dumb clickbait video.
Dude wouldn't even compare the datasheets for the filaments...
I agree, the video isn’t perfect.
But one of my main goals was to teach how to properly compare filaments to NOT get influenced by search optimisation/marketing.
You skipped through the video so you probably didn’t see when I showed how to properly compare prices, clarify various misconceptions and talk about datasheets.
@Remus1033 I will rethink about the title and thumbnail. It’s truly not about clickbait. I just wanted to get some insights from the community and other creators while explaining important things to consider when actually comparing filaments based on facts, such as TDS.
Never enjoy seeing jeno-side Jonathan AKA The Next Layer in a video. He has abhorrent views.
Fil X SBS
What I dislike is chinese brands, Sunlu is good and fine but their specs are always useless. On every site and shop or spool they list difference print settings. From documentation to distribution, it's horrible while the filament itself is good. I mean, some shops have colors they dont even have on their own site ! Same as Creality printers, parts from Ali Creality shop but nowhere to find on the offical site. They just can't make it reliable from source of purchase to settings, guess business in Asia is different.
First off - I don't know why anybody still prints with ABS and PETG when ASA and PCTG exist. They're just objectively better.
Secondly - those tasty Polymaker ad dollars make me very sus about any TH-camrs' stated brand preference.
Thirdly - great channel, keep the videos coming! 😄
they are better but there is always a but. price, selection, availability, and from my experience petg prints slighly nicer than pctg if you care about aesthetics.
1. I personally prefer ASA over ABS too, but PCTG is a different material imo, its more expensive and a bit harder to print.
2. I asked for their honest opinions but some might certainly be influenced by theirs sponsors.
3. Thanks! Will do ;)
ABS is probably the cheapest filament I print. Usually around $15/kg, sometimes a little less. ASA is almost always significantly more.
I wouldn't pick it for this reason, but ASA also doesn't adhere to any smooth plate I am aware of without some kind of adhesive. ABS works great on my PEX plate. Adhesives are messy to deal with.
@@RichFreeman I have found that high temp garolite ("G11"), wet sanded with ~600 grit, works really well with ASA. You have to run it a little hotter; I usually have it around 110-115C. I've run dozens of kg of ASA with flawless bed adhesion this way and no adhesives.
I've long since abandoned PEX as a print surface. I never found that it worked any better than PEI.
@@nikwoac I'll have to try that - I have a Garolite plate (though it is G10 - not sure if that will create problems at 110 though I've probably already run it at that temp for Nylon). I don't have a decent smooth PEI sheet so I haven't tested as much with that.
Very disappointing video. A big middle finger to the entire thought of any kind of scientific or useful information.
But I guess it's worth it to get those clicks, huh?
I appreciate your honesty. While the community poll and content creator interviews are indeed not scientific at all, I think the rest is. 60% of the video is about scientific facts, such as how carbon fibres really improve filaments. While most people say things like „CF filaments makes your parts stronger“ I at least tried to explain it.
Second, this video didn’t make a lot a of clicks. in fact, I made way more with scientific videos, such as in-depth material analysis.
I still get your point and will work on more scientific videos!
PLA is absolutly the worst material. ASA or Nylon 1000x better.
PLA is weak, hard to print and expensive and likes to clog.
Hard to print and clog? I never print PLA but it's by far the easiest to print and has significantly less of a chance to clog vs most other filaments out there. 😂
sunlu petg and prusament pla