Great explantation. I use bevel to pinion shimming with every customer build! Its also important to not the ratio of gears, motor, and spring load the gun will be running as well will also effect the sound! If you are using 13:1 SS with a M120 and a ASG 30k itll sing quietly, but change that motor to a lower torque like a ZCI or most stock torque motors itll sound screechy as the motor will be under more load. As long as you have the pinion and bevel gear meshing well you should be smooth. I also like to do my stress test and then check the parts to see if there is excess wear
LOL you beat me on shimming video since I'm still working on minel. but I'm making it in Korean since teching in Korea is ancient and people still use super old techniques
can you make a video of what the gearbox should sound like after shimming it with and without grease? and how to grease it properly. And maybe the compression installation :))
You don't get much useful information out of just spinning gears, and I can actually very easily fake "perfect shimming." th-cam.com/users/shorts8ixYL290kj4 You gotta put it together and test. Especially since the motor/pinion is the most important part. There isn't much to compression, but the rest of his build will be edited *eventually*
@@christianvillarroel980 motor + grip installed, you don't need the piston to test it. If you're curious about how that should sound: th-cam.com/video/NJ0ULqJ2Oho/w-d-xo.html (even though my etu is bugging out)
I know you won't say who's clip that was @1:15 but based off the receiver, if it's who I think built it, I am very disappointed. Great video as always!
@@Tek_777 No witch hunts! And I have to put it out there that I did not do any audio analysis on the clip. I also failed to note that the sound that was coming from it was unlikely anything similar to the math'd numbers since I had no information on their motor RPM nor gearing. Thanks for commenting!
@@j-airsoft that’s a great point and as a former employee of a few big names, I too don’t agree in witch hunts. Quality and integrity is always key but nothing is 100% all the time.
Offtopic regarding this vid, but I have a question about the SR25 build. In Part 5 we saw the range testing and you "doing a few things" to increase consistency and accuracy. I'm on final stages of my own SR25 build (parts are similar or identical (6.01, V2.5, Max, ect.)) and I could really use some tips on accuracy. Can You explain or go over the "few things" You did? Glad You're back, thought we'd never hear from You again.
@@Saspar the hop chamber has little fins on the sides that keep it straight in the outer barrel, but that has tolerances you can shim out for a more snug consistent fit. I didn't change any parts out, and i don't remember if i went over that stuff in the boring podcast type video
Hey! I love your content and I've taken a lot of inspiration from your videos. The tricks you've used that blew my mind is shimming the motor to the grip aswell as pinion to bevel gear. I also highly appreciated how you remove thin shims that wont get of with a blade knife. I would like to ask you something tho if you have any advice when shimming krytac stock spur & sector gears? I feel like the meshing isn't perfect no matter how i shim them together and I believe it's because of the small spring that sits on the top of the spur (some sort of unique krytac thing im guessing). The meshing between this pair of gears creates a certain noise that I don't think is harmful, but it's just not nice for an OCD guy like myself. Have you got any advice for this or should I just get a new gear set that meshes better? And if so, any advice on gears that's not spiral gears? Thank you in advance, keep up the content this is amazing!
@@DretasProductions krytac auto shims, the spring, suck! So we rip them out and either stack a ton of shims on, or find some sort of metal spacer that fits. Prometheus sells little cnc aluminum ones, but places like evike mark up the cost like crazy. An old crappy bushing may work... Haven't tried
@@DretasProductions totally do it, just make sure you pick a plastic that doesn't melt in the car or creep too much under stress, so maybe ABS, ASA, PETG, maybe a filled nylon, etc. when Shapeways was alive, maekii had his in raw nylon, which i can't agree with that, but it seemed to work Oh, and don't forget bearings! Make it double bearing while you're at it!
@j-airsoft Nonono, I meant what to replace the spur gear spring with. I have a friend that can print with some decent tolerances, not sure what plastic it is but it wont melt under 100 degrees I think. My idea is to print a spacer for the spur and add one shim on each side to make the surfaces have less friction. Since the goal is to not push on the bearings the plastic spacer shouldn't take a beating is my theory.
Yo! Do you have any good resources regarding Tappet PME? I’m running a build with a 19g piston assembly, guarder sp150, 43 RPS and dropping ~30 rps on full auto with 0.3g bbs ( 310 for the first shot and 280ish for all the rest). Problem goes away when I switch the motor to lower mode and shoot @ 32rps. Can’t imagine it’s PME of the piston bc no signs of wear and I feel like it would rip the rack out. Anyways, I’m a little stumped!😢
@@ds_tech-sb so sorry i forgot to reply earlier. I don't have anything on hand, but i usually take a small file and remove a bit of material at the base of the tappet fin and round it out
also you cant hear anything above 22k hertz so that upper stuff doesnt matter. also after building about 6000 guns i can tell you that what gives you the lowest amperage , isnt always the option with less noise. also reducing your noise on warhead or whatever pinion of choice just cut the pinion low edge at a 45 degree angle (ala g and g ifrit) that will def take half of the sound away by just doing that. volt meter over spectrometer any day
Do you always reply to comments? I have a question about anti reversal latches. Do I have to have an anti reversal latch if my mosfet has precocking and active braking? Or is it better to leave it in?
I reply to any that make it to my notifications box! Yep, definitely need one. Active braking is simply the electronic trigger unit (ETU*) sending power backwards to stop the motor. Once it stops, the mainspring takes over and will keep pushing it backwards. *en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MOSFET
@@j-airsoft force of habit calling it a split😅. I'll use it to center a split tho but i reckon the rear measurements are about the same compared to the regular/vfc ones (if minor adjustments need to be done to the spacer so be it). Btw just want to let you know that your work is worth gold to me👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻. Edit: at what infill density would you recommend me printing it? Considering that a split may have more "force" that tryes to missallign it than a solid one if under stress🤔?
@@Fatman-ze9dv According to Voron's R&D, beyond 40% cubic/support cubic/gyroid provides little to no gains. Split shells, at least in my head, actually have more issue with forward facing shock. Since the upper half sort of hooks over the lower, but there's nothing to keep it from going forward besides the rear body pin! Of course, when the sector is pulling the piston back and compressing the spring and then applying force rearwards, but that goes away when the sector lets go.
@@j-airsoft well in my case the springguide is screwed tight enough to the receiver/buffer to prevent any forword motion, matter of fact the problem araises from that. If I screw it all the way the upper gearbox tilts upwords on the side of the nozzle and makes it badly missalign, if I dont screw it in all the way the buffertube has a bit of play and eventually rattles the screw entirely loose and the nozzle missaligns how it feels like. I suspect with your spacer an a few mods i might be able to torque that screw down for good and habe it all in line. I'll go with 60% then just to be sure staying in place isnt a suggestion for the gb/buffer section Edit: I doubt I can teach you anything but I still wanna share a technique that I found maybe I can give you a little bit help back, if you want to be 100% sure that your nozzle sists straight and tight: fully assemble the gun with the nozzle in its most forward Position then look down the barrel and shine a strong light through the magwell if you can see any light leak between nozzle/bucking the seal isnt complete and if it shines through un even and looks basically like a new moon than you can easily triangulate how off it is in which direktion
@@Fatman-ze9dv fair point, the last time i wanted to use a split i wanted to be able to pop it open ics style so no buffer screw (not possible) which led me to an incorrect assumption of all uses of split shells. Yes bolting it down back there with appropriate shimming will be perfect!
mind telling me a bit about these air brake pistonheads? ive seen you use one at the other build but i cant really find much decisive info on them online. they seem like a nice way to wrap up a full stroke setup tho. so what im confused about is: how much springstrenght and air volume can i expect to sacrifice/ does it prevent or delay the piston from seating back in 100%, thus causing potential aoe problems/ is the change in sound profile even worth bothering?
Effective volume lost depends on how long the dingus end is on the brake, and yes it does slow the piston down at the end of the compression stroke, leading to PME if your sector swings back around before it settles. No its not worth it, maaaaaaaaaaaaaybe if you cut the stem down to like 1/4" but the sound is comparable to a thin sorbo/neoprene pad
@@j-airsoft Ok i think i for once wont mess around with the fancy innovative stuff, airbrake seems like it adds more complications than it solves Thanks for the competent advise as allways👍🏻
Nice! What gun out of the box would you recommend in the m4/AR15 platform. Something with empty mag recognition and a snappy programmable trigger setup? I havnt been in airsoft for 15 ywars and i wanna hit the ground running
@@gregmaggert8561 I'm not very aware of current offerings, haven't been doing much recently. These clips are a year old heh. Idk about oob, but the leviathan etu is capable of that sort of processing. Just need the buttons and switches hooked up
i put a brushed motor in my dsg and it shots where it should but when i put a brushless motor it's a 170 is it over spining and do i have to cut the tappet more or is it to short? plz lmk
Sounds like tappet pme, where the sector picks up the tappet again before the piston completes its push. Shorter fin *can* help. You want it to start to let go as soon as it chambers a bb. This is due to higher rpm, not directly because it's a brushless motor. Brushless motors aren't magical creatures that need to be treated so differently
@@andysairsoft9391 pick a ratio you want, math your barrel volume and that's pretty much it. There are pretty good videos out there for that. Also, when in doubt, over volume
d@mn you just set my ear ringing off soooo hard sir..... grr thanks.... i physically cant come back to your chan sir... ouch my ears are ouch.... bro can ya hook a bro up with a ear buds warning son?
interesting, I had dropped the audio a few decibels, and my chronic tinnitus didn't flare up after rewatching the whole thing multiple times before upload your default volume may be too loud for your own safety
M4´s are pretty easy to shim bevel to pinion, and works fantastic, but its not a method you have to use always, thats why i normally start shiming the spur gear thats how i feel more confident and have the better results, spur gear first works with every gun, bevel to pinion doesnt, i mostly work on mp5´s, old guns and weird guns, cause those are the ones most people struggle working with and they dont want to do it by themselves because all tutorials are "bevel to pinion". Also the grip you are using has an inmense effect, not only with the bewel to pinion, also with how it matchs the body of your gun, how the motor wants to sit and how the grip makes it sit, i hate those 416´s grips and the straight modern pistol grips, m16´s are way more forgiven.... thats one point you need to take care about when shimming the motor tower aswell, will the motor need a bit more room to acomodate?? Yes, it will be noisier, but it will be less stress on the motor shaft, wich means less heat and less amp draw, and that is better than a slightiest noisy gear that will be more quiet with time because of wear. Use the right method, for the gun you are working with, and the parts you are installing and how they mess together as a whole, ill bet you an arm most of the times you have to readjust your motor height after you put the whole gun together, making the effort you put on the bewel to pinion almost useless. And what the hell was that sound just in the last second??????????
hello J sorry i need to ask you 10000things and if is possible canni have your whatsapp or messenger i wanna show somethings so may be u can help me???❤❤❤
I think this is the best shimming video around. There is so much information here that most just can’t understand.
th-cam.com/video/MkD7OH-xmTU/w-d-xo.html
By far, the best shimming tutorial I've came across! Thanks!
Yooo good to see u back, love the vids
Great explantation. I use bevel to pinion shimming with every customer build! Its also important to not the ratio of gears, motor, and spring load the gun will be running as well will also effect the sound! If you are using 13:1 SS with a M120 and a ASG 30k itll sing quietly, but change that motor to a lower torque like a ZCI or most stock torque motors itll sound screechy as the motor will be under more load. As long as you have the pinion and bevel gear meshing well you should be smooth. I also like to do my stress test and then check the parts to see if there is excess wear
How much do your gear services cost? Looking to upgrade my lancer gen 2’s trigger sensitivity and rate of fire in semi auto and looking for a tech!
bro showed up after 9 months
he got pregnant
@@brianle468 👶
@@brianle468i was gonna say this 😭😭
Finally.... a good shimming video for people to learn the correct way!
Thanks! Here's another one! th-cam.com/video/MkD7OH-xmTU/w-d-xo.html
NOOOOOO WAYYYYY!!!!! HELL YEAHHH NEW VIDEO!!
we’ve missed you 🥹🥹🤣🤣
8:22, i would use shrinking tube rather than alumunium foil.. it will cover all diameter equally..
awesome! yeah the heat shrink tube is really great at getting soft when it heats up!
YEAH, nareszcie wróciłeś z powrotem :)
Nice tutorial. Would love a fixed overhead shot so your head movements don't get me sick. ;-) Thanks for the content.
hey man thank you for the great vid
LOL you beat me on shimming video since I'm still working on minel. but I'm making it in Korean since teching in Korea is ancient and people still use super old techniques
niiice international!
Sup dude wellcome back
post part 3 pls best videos best shimming tutorial
sounds like something broke at 25:38
did the piston give up?
that little guy is still alive to this day! nah my phone mic started attenuating and resulted in messed up audio near the end there
The goat
can you make a video of what the gearbox should sound like after shimming it with and without grease? and how to grease it properly. And maybe the compression installation :))
You don't get much useful information out of just spinning gears, and I can actually very easily fake "perfect shimming." th-cam.com/users/shorts8ixYL290kj4
You gotta put it together and test. Especially since the motor/pinion is the most important part. There isn't much to compression, but the rest of his build will be edited *eventually*
@ when you say put it together, as in with grease and the compression set?
@@christianvillarroel980 motor + grip installed, you don't need the piston to test it. If you're curious about how that should sound: th-cam.com/video/NJ0ULqJ2Oho/w-d-xo.html (even though my etu is bugging out)
I know you won't say who's clip that was @1:15 but based off the receiver, if it's who I think built it, I am very disappointed. Great video as always!
@@Tek_777 No witch hunts! And I have to put it out there that I did not do any audio analysis on the clip. I also failed to note that the sound that was coming from it was unlikely anything similar to the math'd numbers since I had no information on their motor RPM nor gearing. Thanks for commenting!
@@j-airsoft that’s a great point and as a former employee of a few big names, I too don’t agree in witch hunts. Quality and integrity is always key but nothing is 100% all the time.
Do you use any MOSFET for the 9:1 gear ratio? Is a 9:1 gear ratio good or not?
i think damage that devil gear at the last test fire.
@@Ronelgarrido676 phone attenuated
Offtopic regarding this vid, but I have a question about the SR25 build.
In Part 5 we saw the range testing and you "doing a few things" to increase consistency and accuracy.
I'm on final stages of my own SR25 build (parts are similar or identical (6.01, V2.5, Max, ect.)) and I could really use some tips on accuracy.
Can You explain or go over the "few things" You did?
Glad You're back, thought we'd never hear from You again.
He probably polished the barrel or changed it out. Bucking, nub, hop up unit, and barrel all contribute to accuracy
@@Saspar the hop chamber has little fins on the sides that keep it straight in the outer barrel, but that has tolerances you can shim out for a more snug consistent fit. I didn't change any parts out, and i don't remember if i went over that stuff in the boring podcast type video
WHA HE IS BACK!
Part 3 please 😅
First one please post more
Weeee..finallyyyy... yesss
Doez that mean that the motor is loose in the grip? Crazy
And now we wait another 9 months for the next video
Hey!
I love your content and I've taken a lot of inspiration from your videos. The tricks you've used that blew my mind is shimming the motor to the grip aswell as pinion to bevel gear. I also highly appreciated how you remove thin shims that wont get of with a blade knife. I would like to ask you something tho if you have any advice when shimming krytac stock spur & sector gears? I feel like the meshing isn't perfect no matter how i shim them together and I believe it's because of the small spring that sits on the top of the spur (some sort of unique krytac thing im guessing). The meshing between this pair of gears creates a certain noise that I don't think is harmful, but it's just not nice for an OCD guy like myself. Have you got any advice for this or should I just get a new gear set that meshes better? And if so, any advice on gears that's not spiral gears?
Thank you in advance, keep up the content this is amazing!
@@DretasProductions krytac auto shims, the spring, suck! So we rip them out and either stack a ton of shims on, or find some sort of metal spacer that fits. Prometheus sells little cnc aluminum ones, but places like evike mark up the cost like crazy. An old crappy bushing may work... Haven't tried
@@j-airsoft Should I be concerned about 3D printing my own bushing or might that be eaten up by all the gear movement you think?
@@DretasProductions totally do it, just make sure you pick a plastic that doesn't melt in the car or creep too much under stress, so maybe ABS, ASA, PETG, maybe a filled nylon, etc.
when Shapeways was alive, maekii had his in raw nylon, which i can't agree with that, but it seemed to work
Oh, and don't forget bearings! Make it double bearing while you're at it!
WAIT, if you mean motor tower, yeah it's fine, but definitely not for each gear!
@j-airsoft Nonono, I meant what to replace the spur gear spring with. I have a friend that can print with some decent tolerances, not sure what plastic it is but it wont melt under 100 degrees I think. My idea is to print a spacer for the spur and add one shim on each side to make the surfaces have less friction. Since the goal is to not push on the bearings the plastic spacer shouldn't take a beating is my theory.
Yo! Do you have any good resources regarding Tappet PME? I’m running a build with a 19g piston assembly, guarder sp150, 43 RPS and dropping ~30 rps on full auto with 0.3g bbs ( 310 for the first shot and 280ish for all the rest). Problem goes away when I switch the motor to lower mode and shoot @ 32rps. Can’t imagine it’s PME of the piston bc no signs of wear and I feel like it would rip the rack out. Anyways, I’m a little stumped!😢
@@ds_tech-sb so sorry i forgot to reply earlier. I don't have anything on hand, but i usually take a small file and remove a bit of material at the base of the tappet fin and round it out
@@j-airsoft oh I went back to your DSG video I think part 3 and got that 👍 I really appreciate it!
also you cant hear anything above 22k hertz so that upper stuff doesnt matter. also after building about 6000 guns i can tell you that what gives you the lowest amperage , isnt always the option with less noise. also reducing your noise on warhead or whatever pinion of choice just cut the pinion low edge at a 45 degree angle (ala g and g ifrit) that will def take half of the sound away by just doing that. volt meter over spectrometer any day
@@willeudave7839 6000 guns? What are you bro?
Do you always reply to comments? I have a question about anti reversal latches. Do I have to have an anti reversal latch if my mosfet has precocking and active braking? Or is it better to leave it in?
I reply to any that make it to my notifications box!
Yep, definitely need one. Active braking is simply the electronic trigger unit (ETU*) sending power backwards to stop the motor. Once it stops, the mainspring takes over and will keep pushing it backwards.
*en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MOSFET
@@j-airsoft ok thanks man!
Subbed!
In part 1 you made a gb spacer to allign the ra split gb, ist there any way i can buy the stl from you?
@@Fatman-ze9dv all of my 3d files are free on my gdrive. Iirc that one is the vfc mk18 spacer. And this isn't a split shell
@@j-airsoft force of habit calling it a split😅. I'll use it to center a split tho but i reckon the rear measurements are about the same compared to the regular/vfc ones (if minor adjustments need to be done to the spacer so be it).
Btw just want to let you know that your work is worth gold to me👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻.
Edit: at what infill density would you recommend me printing it? Considering that a split may have more "force" that tryes to missallign it than a solid one if under stress🤔?
@@Fatman-ze9dv According to Voron's R&D, beyond 40% cubic/support cubic/gyroid provides little to no gains.
Split shells, at least in my head, actually have more issue with forward facing shock. Since the upper half sort of hooks over the lower, but there's nothing to keep it from going forward besides the rear body pin! Of course, when the sector is pulling the piston back and compressing the spring and then applying force rearwards, but that goes away when the sector lets go.
@@j-airsoft well in my case the springguide is screwed tight enough to the receiver/buffer to prevent any forword motion, matter of fact the problem araises from that. If I screw it all the way the upper gearbox tilts upwords on the side of the nozzle and makes it badly missalign, if I dont screw it in all the way the buffertube has a bit of play and eventually rattles the screw entirely loose and the nozzle missaligns how it feels like. I suspect with your spacer an a few mods i might be able to torque that screw down for good and habe it all in line.
I'll go with 60% then just to be sure staying in place isnt a suggestion for the gb/buffer section
Edit: I doubt I can teach you anything but I still wanna share a technique that I found maybe I can give you a little bit help back, if you want to be 100% sure that your nozzle sists straight and tight: fully assemble the gun with the nozzle in its most forward Position then look down the barrel and shine a strong light through the magwell if you can see any light leak between nozzle/bucking the seal isnt complete and if it shines through un even and looks basically like a new moon than you can easily triangulate how off it is in which direktion
@@Fatman-ze9dv fair point, the last time i wanted to use a split i wanted to be able to pop it open ics style so no buffer screw (not possible) which led me to an incorrect assumption of all uses of split shells. Yes bolting it down back there with appropriate shimming will be perfect!
Nice bro, do you intend to do a project with gearbox v3?
@@Nechayev7 same process with v3, but if there's a motor cage, you shim the motor still in there vs the grip
What tool do you use for removing/installing pinions?
I know it's not used in this video, I figured I'd just ask in the latest video though.
no problem!
I use a ZCI pinion puller from Brill Armory.
It's a shame they pulled DMs off TH-cam back in the day...
@@j-airsoft awesome, thanks
W guide
mind telling me a bit about these air brake pistonheads? ive seen you use one at the other build but i cant really find much decisive info on them online. they seem like a nice way to wrap up a full stroke setup tho.
so what im confused about is: how much springstrenght and air volume can i expect to sacrifice/ does it prevent or delay the piston from seating back in 100%, thus causing potential aoe problems/ is the change in sound profile even worth bothering?
Effective volume lost depends on how long the dingus end is on the brake, and yes it does slow the piston down at the end of the compression stroke, leading to PME if your sector swings back around before it settles. No its not worth it, maaaaaaaaaaaaaybe if you cut the stem down to like 1/4" but the sound is comparable to a thin sorbo/neoprene pad
@@j-airsoft Ok i think i for once wont mess around with the fancy innovative stuff, airbrake seems like it adds more complications than it solves
Thanks for the competent advise as allways👍🏻
I have a question if you short stroke the dsg gear by two teeth with the 33k brushless motor and a sp150 spring would you get 58 rps
@@AshleyRoldan-fc9py you should get that with a full lipo and 8t at 18:1 + 33k already, ss on a dsg shouldn't affect rps much
31,320 rpm under load
Nice! What gun out of the box would you recommend in the m4/AR15 platform. Something with empty mag recognition and a snappy programmable trigger setup? I havnt been in airsoft for 15 ywars and i wanna hit the ground running
@@gregmaggert8561 I'm not very aware of current offerings, haven't been doing much recently. These clips are a year old heh. Idk about oob, but the leviathan etu is capable of that sort of processing. Just need the buttons and switches hooked up
Hey another question j i just built a dsg, on semi it shoots great, but on auto it drops fps and doesnt shoot very far, u know what the problem is?
@@andysairsoft9391 nozzle bouncing, pme, bucking issues, a lot of things to check
Help I’m stuck for 4 months on the electronic part
this isn't a tutorial?
i put a brushed motor in my dsg and it shots where it should but when i put a brushless motor it's a 170 is it over spining and do i have to cut the tappet more or is it to short? plz lmk
Sounds like tappet pme, where the sector picks up the tappet again before the piston completes its push. Shorter fin *can* help. You want it to start to let go as soon as it chambers a bb. This is due to higher rpm, not directly because it's a brushless motor. Brushless motors aren't magical creatures that need to be treated so differently
@@j-airsoft so does my tappet need to be shorter?
I have a question, how do i know how much volume i need on my piston
@@andysairsoft9391 pick a ratio you want, math your barrel volume and that's pretty much it. There are pretty good videos out there for that. Also, when in doubt, over volume
d@mn you just set my ear ringing off soooo hard sir..... grr thanks.... i physically cant come back to your chan sir... ouch my ears are ouch.... bro can ya hook a bro up with a ear buds warning son?
interesting, I had dropped the audio a few decibels, and my chronic tinnitus didn't flare up after rewatching the whole thing multiple times before upload
your default volume may be too loud for your own safety
so does my tappet need to be shorter?
@@ruz556 dude just try it and see
@@j-airsoft okay thx
What driver set do you use?
@@mattinghas4124 one of Wera's kraftform kits, non-affiliated links on my profile!
@@j-airsoft much appreciated, I need to get a new set
But I have V3.
v3 is easier with the motor cage, but very similar process
im doing a v3 build later this year, we'll see if i feel like voicing that
@@j-airsoft Yeah I know it's a pain in the ass. Better do the voice and video on one otherwise you double the work...
Răng pis có cần cắt không ạ
no, it is minor weight reduction
FPS with a .25
295
ALPHA WERA USER DETECTED REAL RECOGNIZE REAL
oh lol!!!! i just asked for this video yesterday HAHHAHA. amazing work brotherrr!!!, what is your discord channel btw?
profile links, text is my name
M4´s are pretty easy to shim bevel to pinion, and works fantastic, but its not a method you have to use always, thats why i normally start shiming the spur gear thats how i feel more confident and have the better results, spur gear first works with every gun, bevel to pinion doesnt, i mostly work on mp5´s, old guns and weird guns, cause those are the ones most people struggle working with and they dont want to do it by themselves because all tutorials are "bevel to pinion".
Also the grip you are using has an inmense effect, not only with the bewel to pinion, also with how it matchs the body of your gun, how the motor wants to sit and how the grip makes it sit, i hate those 416´s grips and the straight modern pistol grips, m16´s are way more forgiven.... thats one point you need to take care about when shimming the motor tower aswell, will the motor need a bit more room to acomodate?? Yes, it will be noisier, but it will be less stress on the motor shaft, wich means less heat and less amp draw, and that is better than a slightiest noisy gear that will be more quiet with time because of wear.
Use the right method, for the gun you are working with, and the parts you are installing and how they mess together as a whole, ill bet you an arm most of the times you have to readjust your motor height after you put the whole gun together, making the effort you put on the bewel to pinion almost useless.
And what the hell was that sound just in the last second??????????
hello J sorry i need to ask you 10000things and if is possible canni have your whatsapp or messenger i wanna show somethings so may be u can help me???❤❤❤