Sharp Chisels and Plane Irons using Diamond Stones • Complete Sharpening Series Video 8
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- AskWoodMan.com/ This is the eighth video in my complete sharpening series. In this series I will use the following tools and machines: Makita 9820 electric water stone with an after market sharpening jig, Bosch belt sander, Porter Cable belt sander, Mitutoyo combination square, General Sharpening Jig, DMT Diamond Stones, and various chisels, plane irons and scrapers.
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@turnercarl Thank you for telling me about these stones. I just got off of Amazon US and they carry them. This is just one more example where I am learning by interacting through TH-cam. Doors into new ways of working are constantly opening just by watching how creative people are in solving problems. I am 52 and always have to make myself look at new approaches instead of just going with what has worked. Thanks for writing. Keep in touch. Allan
@turnercarl I have seen that device and it is very clever. That is why I love the Stanley #80 so much, because it flexes the blade like their product but has the handles as well. It can do either really fine joint floating or gorilla stock removal. I was about 27 when a very experienced furniture maker showed me the power of that tool. I left his shop and went and bought the one I still have today. I am 52 now.
Great questions. The only reason I bought the new 3x8 stones for my setup was the two grits I bought were not available in the cost effective 2x6 size. The VerySuperCool Tools jig I use does not require large stones since the jig rides on a reference surface which is granite in my case. I have tried the dotted stones and did not care for the feel. I am used to continuous surface stones so I am probably prejudiced.
Two hands on the knife. Brilliant advice.
Yes just the regular Simple Green. I have used it to cut thousands of holes in steel with no rust promotion. Not toxic or oil based. I like that and the price. Just note that Simple Green can react with aluminum and cause a cloudy oxidized reaction if left on for a long time.
I really appreciate your approach to sharing what you have learned over the years. I recently purchased the Makita water stone you use and sought out your videos to help get acquainted with how to use it well. In the process of watching your entire series so far you mention an often overlooked aspect, that of dressing the back of the blade first. I was surprised that you mention a number of times that you don't take the back of the blade down as fine as the face. I'm not a fanatic, I have made a living building furniture, homes and boats for 40 years and agree with your attitude that you need to have a system that gets you sharp effectively, accurately and fast. You humbly say you are open to anyone sharing a way to improve what you do and I would suggest a simple change that I believe is not a "religious" point of view but simply building off of your own experiences. In my experience you can never get an edge sharper than the back of the blade is dressed. I would encourage you to take the back as far as the front. The improvement would not be noticed in most tasks but when approaching wild grain or some of the difficult angles carving requires the difference may become worthwhile.
Thanks again for your videos.
Hi I love your videos and you often mention keeping it cool. I’ve never been able to sharpen anything and recently I tried to sharpen a chisel with a grinder. I did get it too hot where the steel was discolored and I was wondering if I destroyed it. No matter how much I worked on it it never got better.
Now I don’t have all the nice sharpening stuff you have, but after watching I’m now looking into buying some stuff.
Thanks for the video!
You have not completely ruined the chisel, but you do need to remove the discolored portion. Sharpening is about patience. Use your grinder for few seconds, then put your edge in water and then do something else up for a minute, then go back to it. Most grinders are moving at 3600 and that is way too fast for tool steel for more than a few seconds with very very light pressure. All questions are welcome and I am happy to help if I can. I just try to keep it simple and cheap. Allan
@Mueiwark The DMT stones I am using are 2"x6" two sided stones. One stone is course and extra course, and
the other is fine and extra fine. They are graded industrial carbide bonded to a rigid steel plate. They do not need flattening at all. Waterstones are like having children with all the dressing and babying they require. My DMT stones are in almost daily use and are years old and still cutting like champs. I think they are the best value I have found. High performance but reasonably priced.
@LeaveYouT I think I have had the fine/extra fine for over 5 years, and the course/extra course for over 4 years. They really are holding up well for as much as I use them.
@Mueiwark I looked on Amazonuk and they carry them. Amazon in the US also ships internationally. Keep me posted on what you decide.
@askwoodman Thx for the answer! I will try and look for this type of DMT stone in my country.
Hi Allan, I have a question about that diamond stone you are using. It looks like a solid slab of metal, I have never seen anything like it. The DMT stones I know of are flexible thin sandpaper like things. I want to use it to sharpen my hardmetal Japanese pruning shear (rockwell 58 - 60) and some woodworking tools. What kind of 'grits' do you use here? And does that DMT stone needs flattening every now and then?
Allan: Two questions that I thought I would ask here versus via email as I think others may have similar: a) Can you comment on the value/use of the 8" vs 6" DMT stone? What tools do you typically need the 8" for? b) You have the steel DMT stones (Dia-Sharp). It looks like DMT now has a polymer based stone (Duo-Sharp w/ the poka-dots). Do you have experience w/ this new one? It is about $30 more per 2 sided stone. Trying to guess if it would be worth it.
Hello, I just recently started watching your video's. Good job.
In one of these videos you say you are using Simple green 50/50 with water as a cutting fluid. Is this the all purpose cleaner?
@spelunkerd I have tried through my woodworking career not to be know as "stumps".
Hello Allan, would you kindly tell me how many years have you had these DMT stones to be precise ? Thank you.
After seeing it needed to go to 16,000 grit stones, I have gone to 3000 grit. BUT, what would be the difference of going to 1000 grit, then srop till it looks like a mirror or chrome. It is very, very sharp. Cut myself and didn't feel a thing. So should I buy an expensive 16,000 diamond stone or just strop it???
+Lee Haire I do most of my sharpening only to extra-fine on the DMT scale 9 micron is about 1500 grit. I have an extra-extra fine 3micron 8000grit stone also but I really cant tell that much improvement for the kind of work I do. I use my chisels for a lot of paring work and for chopping dovetails and I think I get some pretty clean cuts. I pretty much sharpen my plane irons the same way, and I can take whisper cuts in hard woods with my block plane. The problem I see with stropping is sure you may get the mirror finish on the facet, but that is not where the cutting action action is. Care must really be taken to make sure your stropping action is not blunting the zero dimension line between facet and sole. I generally don't use leather because I can't control that geometry.
What was that spray ?