The GT has one piece retainers, try pouring oil down the pushrods and soak the lifter, sometimes it won’t turn but the lifter can. Look down at the lifter.
I can't believe it's been 40+ years since I was able to go to the many junkyards here in Metro Detroit and buy decent running 360's,390's, 429's,460's and 351 CLEVELANDS all day long for around $300-another $100 with a C6. Makes me wanna cry. No more good machine shops around anymore either. Looking forward to a 2022 "budget" build. Thanks for posting.
2 zip ties a feeler gauge set. A pair of 460 channelocks. Set up 0.070 thick feeler gauges. Zip that pack. Set up more feelers into a 0.170 feeler gauge stack. Zip tie those. Bump the number 1 cylinder to tdc compression stroke. Use channelocks to grip rocker arm. Apply pressure to rocker arm to push pushrod down to collapse lifter. Rocker to valve tip should be within 0.070 and 0.170" If not within spec a longer or shorter pushrod is available easily if you look at the pushrod catalog.
I've built a couple of those. One as a stockish warmed over 390 and an all out 445 stroker. Even the stockish 390 makes a lot of power when all the machine work is right and the pistons come up to the top of the deck. I reused the stock 4 barrel intake and exhaust manifolds on the 390 and it still revs to 6000 RPM and makes plenty of power. No cheap way to build those if it goes to a machine shop.
THANK YOU for not wrecking things to make a video. I got a real bad taste for one of the early "we have to build this car in 2 weeks" reality shows due to their ritual of locking the throttle wide open on anything that came in running so they could stand around and watch it blow up. That shows absolutely no respect for the machinery and I have no respect for people who would do such a thing.
The way to identify a GT390, assuming it was complete when the swap was done, is look at the oil filter housing, the GT390 had a special housing that I believe was also only used on the 428cj. Next is the cam itself, should be .480 lift. Also, if like mine that was a gt390 out of a 4-speed car it will have a "large port" low riser intake. Mine had a C5 casting number but was large port, that can only mean one thing since large port FE were out of production in '64 and only the 4-speed gt390 retained that design. The intake is why the 4-speed engines were rated at 335hp compared to the 320hp in GTA cars. Hope this helps. Block casting numbers are worthless, I've personally seen a 390 out of a late '60s truck have the casting number as a side oiler 427, it was not, just your standard top oiler 390. My GT390 codes to a 428, it is not.
I rebuilt the 390 in my 74 F100 and yes, it's expensive. I had to spend the money to have the heads rebuilt twice! The first shop to rebuild the heads was in fact a cylinder head specialist and messed up my C1AE heads! The second shop was an at home shop and he got them right. Overall, probably close to $4k in that motor and I assembled it myself.
If cam is worn, that valve should have less lift than the others, I'd verify using dial indicator. Could just be tight from sludge or setting. Upper ball on push rod could be scored. I'd start engine and see if it rotates.
I have a 390 GT motor in my F-100, I just recently took the Intake manifold out and the valve covers off to replace them, it has a roller cam. Do you have to put the push rods in the same spot I took them out? If so I'm screwed.
@@AutoRestoMod Thanks for replying. What would you recommend I do, since they're already out and there is no chance of me putting them back in the same spot.
yes, my '67 390 GT engine, with only 73K on it, also had a tight lifter on #2 exhaust, pushrod was rotating but very slow compared to others. I was replacing lifters, pushrods and rocker arms and when pulling out the old lifter, noticed at the bottom of the lifter bore looked like a small burr at the bottom.
There are issues with flat tappet lifters today. I have a machine shop and deal with custom cam grinders. Check your new lifters!!!!!!! Haven't had a problem with Hy-Lift yet.
Johnson /Hi-Lift are the OEMS and seem like the best Ford ones. If it were a GT though it would have a lower bolt on the end top bolt holes and the cam will be the same as the A cam in the 428 CJ.
It makes me sad to hear that 390 BB's are so expensive and tough to deal with. I'm really thinking about tracking down one for my 57 F100 build, but now I'm kind of scared!
@@purpurahaze9179 nope, was a replacement 30 years ago when original 360 crapped out at 30k this one probably has half a million, odometer quit moon's ago
Did you call the 2nd cylinder back on the passenger side #7? The firing order on the Ford has that cylinder as #2. It actuates just before # 1 the 1st cylinder on the passenger side. Just wondering.
I think what I would probably do is to pull the push rods run a little bright clean down through the porch and see if that helps. I've always said that usually a car like this is parked for a reason and it's most of the time not because it's ugly. Lol Usually it's something catastrophic either in the drive line or the engine.
If that 390 is from a GT car, then it is likely a HiPo 390. Not a bad place to start imho. Maybe a 445 stroker kit since you're rebuilding it? Just a thought.
All you do is talk. Tear off the intake manifold and find out what your problem is. It may be simple. Don't think the worst. I know this engine. I doubt the cam lobe is bad. Get dirty and find out. Quit whining.
Sorry this video is late! For some reason our video never went public yesterday! -Andrew
I have had that happen as well on my shorts videos
The GT has one piece retainers, try pouring oil down the pushrods and soak the lifter, sometimes it won’t turn but the lifter can. Look down at the lifter.
Hello u guys have}parts for Thunderbird 67?
I can't believe it's been 40+ years since I was able to go to the many junkyards here in Metro Detroit and buy decent running 360's,390's, 429's,460's and 351 CLEVELANDS all day long for around $300-another $100 with a C6. Makes me wanna cry. No more good machine shops around anymore either. Looking forward to a 2022 "budget" build. Thanks for posting.
Can’t wait for a 390 build video. Mine also needs a good rebuild.
It's coming I have to go talk to the shop to see if they're going to let us come in and video
@@AutoRestoMod Barry R?
Sorry to hear about camshaft/lifter problem, but glad to see how you pointed it out. Spending time up front saves you headaches later on.
It's cheaper to do it before everything goes cataclysmic lol
Hey there Jeff, this is the "curse", of having the ethics of a doctor.. 1st rule, "due no harm " !!!
Better luck on the the truck !!!!
Can't wait for the 390 build
Us too
2 zip ties a feeler gauge set. A pair of 460 channelocks.
Set up 0.070 thick feeler gauges. Zip that pack. Set up more feelers into a 0.170 feeler gauge stack. Zip tie those. Bump the number 1 cylinder to tdc compression stroke. Use channelocks to grip rocker arm. Apply pressure to rocker arm to push pushrod down to collapse lifter. Rocker to valve tip should be within 0.070 and 0.170"
If not within spec a longer or shorter pushrod is available easily if you look at the pushrod catalog.
Thanks for the awesome tip Wayne
I've built a couple of those. One as a stockish warmed over 390 and an all out 445 stroker. Even the stockish 390 makes a lot of power when all the machine work is right and the pistons come up to the top of the deck. I reused the stock 4 barrel intake and exhaust manifolds on the 390 and it still revs to 6000 RPM and makes plenty of power. No cheap way to build those if it goes to a machine shop.
Yeah we realized that period but we think it'll be a lot of fun to do a stroker for the Galaxie
@@AutoRestoMod Night and day difference in power with the stroker kit, no matter how good the 390 runs.
Great video.... Thanks for the update
Thank you
THANK YOU for not wrecking things to make a video. I got a real bad taste for one of the early "we have to build this car in 2 weeks" reality shows due to their ritual of locking the throttle wide open on anything that came in running so they could stand around and watch it blow up. That shows absolutely no respect for the machinery and I have no respect for people who would do such a thing.
Plus on some of these engines is just really expensive.
The way to identify a GT390, assuming it was complete when the swap was done, is look at the oil filter housing, the GT390 had a special housing that I believe was also only used on the 428cj. Next is the cam itself, should be .480 lift. Also, if like mine that was a gt390 out of a 4-speed car it will have a "large port" low riser intake. Mine had a C5 casting number but was large port, that can only mean one thing since large port FE were out of production in '64 and only the 4-speed gt390 retained that design. The intake is why the 4-speed engines were rated at 335hp compared to the 320hp in GTA cars. Hope this helps. Block casting numbers are worthless, I've personally seen a 390 out of a late '60s truck have the casting number as a side oiler 427, it was not, just your standard top oiler 390. My GT390 codes to a 428, it is not.
I rebuilt the 390 in my 74 F100 and yes, it's expensive. I had to spend the money to have the heads rebuilt twice! The first shop to rebuild the heads was in fact a cylinder head specialist and messed up my C1AE heads! The second shop was an at home shop and he got them right. Overall, probably close to $4k in that motor and I assembled it myself.
I really hate to hear that for you. Sometimes that kind of stuff happened. We know it's gonna be expensive But we're hoping to keep our cost down
If cam is worn, that valve should have less lift than the others, I'd verify using dial indicator. Could just be tight from sludge or setting. Upper ball on push rod could be scored. I'd start engine and see if it rotates.
I agree.I would run it.
I have a 390 GT motor in my F-100, I just recently took the Intake manifold out and the valve covers off to replace them, it has a roller cam. Do you have to put the push rods in the same spot I took them out? If so I'm screwed.
It would have been better. If the enging is not high miles, there is a chance it will be OK if you put them in as they are.
@@AutoRestoMod Thanks for replying. What would you recommend I do, since they're already out and there is no chance of me putting them back in the same spot.
Cheap is a nice goal, but don't sacrifice anything that may cause issues. Always good to spend a bit more on something that "may" save you in the end.
yes, my '67 390 GT engine, with only 73K on it, also had a tight lifter on #2 exhaust, pushrod was rotating but very slow compared to others. I was replacing lifters, pushrods and rocker arms and when pulling out the old lifter, noticed at the bottom of the lifter bore looked like a small burr at the bottom.
Yup it could also be trash inside the boar or it could be a problem on the Cam lobe. Any of those instances make me want to stop
Sob! Sob, my maverick got the covid shot.... And its turning into a nash rambler, or something... Good video Mr Ford!
At least it's not growing another head. Thank you for the kind words
There are issues with flat tappet lifters today. I have a machine shop and deal with custom cam grinders. Check your new lifters!!!!!!! Haven't had a problem with Hy-Lift yet.
Johnson /Hi-Lift are the OEMS and seem like the best Ford ones. If it were a GT though it would have a lower bolt on the end top bolt holes and the cam will be the same as the A cam in the 428 CJ.
It makes me sad to hear that 390 BB's are so expensive and tough to deal with. I'm really thinking about tracking down one for my 57 F100 build, but now I'm kind of scared!
You are scared.........over an engine.....
Cleveland or a 460 way cheaper. Less chance for a mistake.
Should be a big s on the intake if it is a 390 GT,
Yeh Barry has some nice cylinder heads
Indeed he does. We'll just have to see what happens.
Goodluck love to have my 73 f100 410febuilt. But I need money and everything is tight
Yeah it's really hard right now if you have to drive to work just to put gas on the vehicle!
@Regg Eckman better pray that all of your pistons are good their hard to find these days
@@purpurahaze9179 yep, purrs pretty good. Reminds me I should go start it again and enjoy the lope.
@@reggeckmann3993 Is yours the original motor for the truck?
@@purpurahaze9179 nope, was a replacement 30 years ago when original 360 crapped out at 30k this one probably has half a million, odometer quit moon's ago
Did you call the 2nd cylinder back on the passenger side #7? The firing order on the Ford has that cylinder as #2. It actuates just before # 1 the 1st cylinder on the passenger side. Just wondering.
Can you pour oil over the pushrods and try again. GTs have 1 piece retainers.
I think what I would probably do is to pull the push rods run a little bright clean down through the porch and see if that helps. I've always said that usually a car like this is parked for a reason and it's most of the time not because it's ugly. Lol Usually it's something catastrophic either in the drive line or the engine.
Result of low zinc oil.......
I've seen many times where a push rod is not spinning but the lifter is.
Yeah agreed. It just isn't a good sign.
Had a 590 in a 65 Ford galaxy 2 door
If that 390 is from a GT car, then it is likely a HiPo 390. Not a bad place to start imho. Maybe a 445 stroker kit since you're rebuilding it? Just a thought.
We have other fish to fry but a stroker kit is a thought process for me
All HiPo 390 had adjustable rocker arms because they had solid lifters, which this one does not have.
Wouldn't a 390GT out of a 66 Fairlane have C6AE-R heads??
Dont want to hear about cams, I raced a guy in my 85 vette and blew the cam....
Sorry, Hope it's not too sore of a subject
😎🏴☠️
Arrrrr
That's damned disappointing - both dying at about the same time.
Yeah I'm a little gutted honestly
@@AutoRestoMod My first smartguy thought was What did Cam do now?
I d call Barry and get a roller cam and lifters. Flat tappet cams are Russian Roulette on anything.
Sorry, man. Sucks you got 2 broke 390's
All you do is talk. Tear off the intake manifold and find out what your problem is. It may be simple. Don't think the worst. I know this engine. I doubt the cam lobe is bad. Get dirty and find out. Quit whining.
Mines shaved and I guarantee this one here is too.
That is not a GT engine the 390 GT head had one piece retainer on the valves that one had 2 piece
I never said it was A390GT engine I said it was the same type of cylinder head that the 390GT used