I’m looking to build some huge speakers for our church. On a budget of course. This seems doable for me. I don’t have to much experience. Thanks a bunch man. I’m gonna go ahead and do these.
I would check out GR-Research open baffle basics series of videos, lots of useful information in regards to theory and building of open baffle speakers
I have Emerald Physics 3.4s the EPs the woofer is situated roughly half way above the front baffle and tapers from there to the base. IMO, much more elegant looking than the rectangle
Digging the look with the down firing woofer loading the slot. Looks like a great counterweight for the baffle. Can't wait to see how it turns out. That may be my favorite design so far.
@@abxaudiophilesyou could easily change the downfiring slot load into a down firing ripole which has been found to essentially lower the drivers FS a considerable amount say 5hz ish and ofcourse 2 drivers twice the displacement. I would highly suggest playing with different baffle shapes or perhaps even a Supra baffle. I don’t remember the name of the study but the effects of baffle shapes has been well documented.
Looking forward to see where this goes! I’ve been wanting to experiment with OB speakers for a long time and this looks like fun. Have there been any updates?
What would happen if you put the bass driver at a 45 degree to give it a better wave path out the slot? The sides could also add to stability and rigidity.
@abxaudiophile Almost like a band pass or transmission line design for the woofer, which both are proven designs for adding additional bass. Just a thought.
Can the box be built to line up the center of the woofer magnet with the front of the coax driver's magnet for time alignment? You could get the coax driver further back to match up with the woofer by making that deeper wave guide the right depth.
Love the look of this design, wife acceptance is a major factor as well as the room size I have. Has there already been a group buy on the components for this version?
The only group buy was the single LDA 15” driver. And that’s over, but it will be available soon to everyone. Everything sled can be sourced from Amazon, Home Depot, and parts express.
I have been working with speakers, HiFi and PA, for many years but I don´t remember to have seen a front ported subwoofer like this at any time, and it is not mentioned in the books I have about speaker building, and I have quite a few. But that doesn´t mean that it does not exist, or that it will not work. It looks quite interesting. Could you or your partner in crime please elaborate a little bit around what we are dealing with here? Is it a kind of band pass cabinet with an unlimited back chamber, and a ported front chamber? Thanks in advance.
As I’m still a OB apprentice, my understanding is that the front “loading” of the bass driver does a few things. Gives us a nice little bump in the 30-200hz range without it we struggle to get to 30hz. Also increases sensitivity of the bass driver by about 2-3db which aligns it with the 15” driver at 97db. And lowers the QTs to 0.7 overall. The bass is noticeable, punchy, clean, fast, and very natural in tone. Nothing forced. Hope that helps.
I'm looking to DIY a pair of speakers in the near future and nothing intrigues me more than this project. I have a 2.3 watt Decware SE84UFO2 amp that needs high sensitivity speakers and I would prefer 100db or more if possible. Is there a plan or any options to make that possible with this design?
I want to build the big ones! My wife liked the big ones. Would GR research be interested in building their high-end crossover for this speaker? He seems to know everything about cross-overs. Not sure myself.
I think it is very possible to build a great baffle for $500.. 1.5" butcher block or 3/4 Birch ply, single 15" full range driver, maybe a little slot loading...
@@abxaudiophiles I'm using a GRS 18" Pro woofer with a QTS of .54, a GRS 8" woofer with a QTS of .79, and a GRS 1" dome tweeter. Both woofers have an 89 db sensitivity and the tweeter has a 91 db sensativity. crossover points are 250 hz and 3500 hz. So far I have less than $300 in speakers and crossover components. I sliced a 4x8 3/4 inch plywood board into 4 2x4 pieces. Right now they are clamped and glued into 2 2x4x1.5" sections. that was just under $80 for the plywood.
You may have standing wave issues with the parallel sides of your slot loaded woofer. You notice Pass angled the sides- there is a reason for that....
No issues here... Measures and sounds amazing. :)
I’m looking to build some huge speakers for our church. On a budget of course. This seems doable for me. I don’t have to much experience. Thanks a bunch man. I’m gonna go ahead and do these.
Keep us posted!! 😊😊
I would check out GR-Research open baffle basics series of videos, lots of useful information in regards to theory and building of open baffle speakers
Smart guy
I wonder for a smaller apartment setup, if you could do a 10” and a sub w a midrange and tweeter ? This is fascinating
100% doable! We have a baby baffle in the works now in our Discord
Finding this very interesting. Keep up the great work James.
Thanks, will do!
Great concepts for the overall design and bass driver. Can’t wait to see the next build!
We’re excited Tom. 😉😉👏🏼👏🏼
I have Emerald Physics 3.4s the EPs the woofer is situated roughly half way above the front baffle and tapers from there to the base. IMO, much more elegant looking than the rectangle
Very nice! Great thing about DIY, it’s endless options and preferences. 😊😊
Thanks! Love’ in the OB design.
Awww. Thanks for the tip!! It all goes to charity, so thank you!! We’re excited about this build. Stay tuned. ❤❤
Digging the look with the down firing woofer loading the slot. Looks like a great counterweight for the baffle. Can't wait to see how it turns out. That may be my favorite design so far.
We’re super excited Jim!! We’ve got a crossover video coming soon and more updates as we move forward in testing.
@@abxaudiophilesyou could easily change the downfiring slot load into a down firing ripole which has been found to essentially lower the drivers FS a considerable amount say 5hz ish and ofcourse 2 drivers twice the displacement. I would highly suggest playing with different baffle shapes or perhaps even a Supra baffle. I don’t remember the name of the study but the effects of baffle shapes has been well documented.
Looking forward to see where this goes! I’ve been wanting to experiment with OB speakers for a long time and this looks like fun. Have there been any updates?
We have, the last review I did shows all about it... :)
What would happen if you put the bass driver at a 45 degree to give it a better wave path out the slot? The sides could also add to stability and rigidity.
Good thoughts. I’m not certain exactly what would happen. Intriguing.
@abxaudiophile Almost like a band pass or transmission line design for the woofer, which both are proven designs for adding additional bass. Just a thought.
Can the box be built to line up the center of the woofer magnet with the front of the coax driver's magnet for time alignment? You could get the coax driver further back to match up with the woofer by making that deeper wave guide the right depth.
Great idea!! We can do anything. ❤❤
Can version 3.0 be a desktop baffle? Great job, make these open baffles.
That’s a GREAT idea!!! Let’s do it.
Love the look of this design, wife acceptance is a major factor as well as the room size I have. Has there already been a group buy on the components for this version?
The only group buy was the single LDA 15” driver. And that’s over, but it will be available soon to everyone. Everything sled can be sourced from Amazon, Home Depot, and parts express.
Good stuff man.
Much appreciated. 😉😊😊🙏🏼
Why not flush front mount? You have the thickness to router it out
A great option as well, awesome thing about DIY, it’s endless 😉😉 I think personally I like the cleaner look of rear mount.
I have been working with speakers, HiFi and PA, for many years but I don´t remember to have seen a front ported subwoofer like this at any time, and it is not mentioned in the books
I have about speaker building, and I have quite a few. But that doesn´t mean that it does not exist, or that it will not work. It looks quite interesting.
Could you or your partner in crime please elaborate a little bit around what we are dealing with here?
Is it a kind of band pass cabinet with an unlimited back chamber, and a ported front chamber?
Thanks in advance.
As I’m still a OB apprentice, my understanding is that the front “loading” of the bass driver does a few things. Gives us a nice little bump in the 30-200hz range without it we struggle to get to 30hz. Also increases sensitivity of the bass driver by about 2-3db which aligns it with the 15” driver at 97db. And lowers the QTs to 0.7 overall. The bass is noticeable, punchy, clean, fast, and very natural in tone. Nothing forced. Hope that helps.
Are you in St Louis? I see the arch / stadium photo.
No, just been there and liked the picture... :)
What did you guys use to cut the hole in the baffle?
Just a simple $99 router
I'm looking to DIY a pair of speakers in the near future and nothing intrigues me more than this project. I have a 2.3 watt Decware SE84UFO2 amp that needs high sensitivity speakers and I would prefer 100db or more if possible. Is there a plan or any options to make that possible with this design?
For sure….. Just build a set like my first pair, but without the bass driver and use a slightly larger choke on the 15”…
Or a set just like these in the video without the bass driver.
Then maybe just load the driver with like a 10” hole to increase sensitivity a few db from the stock 97 and you might get there.
For the sound distribution to be horizontal , the slot has to be vertical.. (although a bit counter intuitive)
Am I right?
There is little to no audible difference either way. Maybe technically speaking, but were talking about a bass driver really.
I want to build the big ones! My wife liked the big ones. Would GR research be interested in building their high-end crossover for this speaker? He seems to know everything about cross-overs. Not sure myself.
We’ve got it all figured out. Video coming soon!! Simple is better.
@@abxaudiophiles exactly! Kiss principle.
@@abxaudiophiles I hope you can organise packages for overseas orders. Thank you.
You are right on that LOl, he sure seems to cut every speaker at his site
@@clemmtec9506 not sure I follow what you’re saying?
I wish i had more room
It’s always an issue. 😜😊
Day late and a dollar short. Do you or anyone have dimensions for the bass box and cutout?
Folks in our Discord are discussing that now, but we have moved in another direction with those smaller baffles since the review.
I'm trying to go under $500. Hope they sound OK.
I think it is very possible to build a great baffle for $500.. 1.5" butcher block or 3/4 Birch ply, single 15" full range driver, maybe a little slot loading...
@@abxaudiophiles I'm using a GRS 18" Pro woofer with a QTS of .54, a GRS 8" woofer with a QTS of .79, and a GRS 1" dome tweeter. Both woofers have an 89 db sensitivity and the tweeter has a 91 db sensativity. crossover points are 250 hz and 3500 hz. So far I have less than $300 in speakers and crossover components. I sliced a 4x8 3/4 inch plywood board into 4 2x4 pieces. Right now they are clamped and glued into 2 2x4x1.5" sections. that was just under $80 for the plywood.
@@alexsamaniego442 I’m sure it will sound good!! Keep us posted. ❤😊
Maybe plywood just smaller?
@@Lfunk1983 That works great too
Looks like somebody's out house is missing a seat 😂
Best shit you’ll ever have. 🤣🤣🤣
'promosm'
ok