Yep, mine got stuck after few days of use. But then I managed to double fail.. first of all the cleaning tool they provided got stuck when I was cleaning it from above. So I tried to pull it out, my hand slipped a little and the hook in the other end of the tool sunk in to my finger pretty deep.. after bleeding quite a lot I managed to finally clean the thing.. one good test print done, lets see if it gets stuck again soon.,. 😆
Hi, I foumd a fast solution on the noisy fan, put a washers in between the chassis and the fan, it will reduces the noise, maybe add more washers and see that help. At the moment I only laid a single washer on each corner of the fan. It is only fast solution before making a radical mod. I forgot the screws, need a bit longer one.
The issue is not a clogged nozzle. the black finger tension adjustment screw on the extruder release lever is loose and the extruder is not giving enough tension to the filament and giving the appearance of the nozzle being clogged. Try tightening it tight with your fingers and give it a go.
Hey, I am in the same boat thinking it is clogged nozzle, any chance you could help elaborate how tight it must be? should I tighten it all the way? also Do you know if I need to use high flow or high speed filaments? I used the one they gave as test as none of my old filaments work at those high speeds and I see an output that looks a lot like under extrusion. is it because of the screw as well?
Mine works fine and i assume have run 4kg PLA and 1kg PETG through the nozzle The Z Axis "rattling" sound i also have . but i think actually i will not do anything about it I changed the PCB fan to Noctua and i have the enclosure (not mounted yet) But yes .. i think in the future maybe a change to a complete new nozzle system or complete extruder could be a way .. we just have to wait a bit until more mods appear. And .. lets see when the Coprint material change system will come
SOVOL printed with the nozzle too low with PETG, SOVOL settings: Damage caused SOVOL say: 1. The SV08 probe is always calibrated for Zoffset and hot bed grid detection at 65℃, but PETG printing requires a hot bed at 85℃, and the temperature will affect the probe and cause temperature drift; generally, 85℃ and 65℃ hot beds have no effect on printing; Here are two suggestions: 2. Suggestion 1: Heat the hot bed before starting printing, heat the hot bed to 65℃ and keep it for about 15-20 minutes, so that the hot bed is heated evenly, and after the hot bed is heated for a period of time, the hot bed plane has temperature and is generally on a stable surface,so there will be no unevenness caused by thermal expansion and contraction due to sudden heating of the hot bed; when the hot bed is heated to 65℃ and kept for about 15-20 minutes, and then print, the leveling data will be in a stable state 3. Suggestion 2: For temperature drift of the probe sensor, the general detection head will be affected by temperature. It is recommended that users do not heat the hot bed to 85℃ before returning to zero and leveling. It is necessary to ensure that the machine returns to zero when printing, the bed temperature is the same as the gantry leveling, and the bed temperature is the same when the probe grid is leveling. If all the detection actions of the detection head are at the same temperature, the impact of temperature will be relatively small. For damaged parts, please provide photos and we will replace them for you after confirmation. !DONE!
The Start Gcode has the front Purge Line, I remove mine I use a skirt not a brim to get the filament flowing, etc.. My Start Gcode, not perfect may need some tweaks :- G28 ; Auto Home G90 ; Absolute Positioning G1 X0 F9000 ; Move X at speed G1 Y20 ; Move Y at speed G1 Z10 F600 ; Move Z at speed CLEAN_NOZZLE ; Clean the nozzle, wipe on back brush, remove ooze START_PRINT ; Start Printing G90 ; Absolute Positioning G1 X0 F90000 ; Move X at speed G1 Y200 ; Move Y at speed G91 ; Relative Positioning M83 ; E Relative M140 S[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single] ;set bed temp M104 S[nozzle_temperature_initial_layer] ;set extruder temp M190 S[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single] ;wait for bed temp M109 S[nozzle_temperature_initial_layer];wait for extruder temp
Hmm I might be better off getting a Bambu. Not a fan of the spy crap bambu pulls and i really wanted a 350mm build plate. this printer has many issues. I have a qidi max 3 now but i have a sv08 on order. Im really thinking of canceling and getting bambu or a 2nd max 3. I can put on new sensors and end stops ect... but if that nozzle is giving that many issues I would have to change hot ends as well. if i have to change hot ends. and put on a Klicky probe and being told from Sovol support i would void the warranty if im not happy with the bed sensor to put on a klicky? think i would be better off just getting a 2nd max 3 bed leveling and print quality from this max 3 is top tier. I'm retiring all my bed slingers this year. I kinda liked not needing to make my own profiles with the max 3
@@RaffaelloLeanza I kinda want too but at same time dont want to spend 3 weeks and 1,200 into it. I want something i can build a MMU for and i think the sv08 is going to fit that bill? for under $600 and i trust the max 3 to make the parts i need.
@@st0mper121 well, If your only concern is with the hotend. There is already a soultion. Buy a bambu hotend for 16 Bucks and go on printables there is adapter for the sv08 that and the nozzle/ hotend issue or whatever is gone. I have two ratrigs that are both running on bambu hotends since almost two years now and never had any issues, clogs, heatcreeps or anything. Then with the probe. In my opinion the inductive probes in general are not the best choice for levelling as they are temperature dependent deviation in the readings. I used them in the beginning but then swapped to bl touch. The best feature would have been the same system like prusa or creality with the k1 that uses the nozzle itself to probe. Klicky is good as well but as far as I'm concerned you loose a bit of printig space on the printables solution because of the docing station of the probe. I think this will be just a matter of time until someone puts a design out for bl touch on the sv08. In my opinion you can't get a better printer for the money and since it is all open source the community will put out plenty of new stuff. Who knows we might even see the stealthburner soon on the sv08?
I've had my SV08 for a few weeks now and have printed a good 100 hours with it. Apart from problems with the Z-offset, I haven't had any clogging so far. Maybe it really is the nozzles. Or the material. I've only printed PLA+ so far. No high-speed material.
@@jenspaschmann7906 Z offset may actually be the big dipper bed distortion Sovol say use a 30 minute heat soak on larger prints because they know the bed distorts
Open tabs... My browser doesnt even tell me how many tabs anymore it just has a smile there 😆
You can change the stock board fan to a controllable pinout to turn the fan on when needed.
Yep, mine got stuck after few days of use. But then I managed to double fail.. first of all the cleaning tool they provided got stuck when I was cleaning it from above. So I tried to pull it out, my hand slipped a little and the hook in the other end of the tool sunk in to my finger pretty deep.. after bleeding quite a lot I managed to finally clean the thing.. one good test print done, lets see if it gets stuck again soon.,. 😆
Oh dear, sounds awful. I hope you're getting it resolved. I am testing different hotends now to see how to improve this long term.
Hi, I foumd a fast solution on the noisy fan, put a washers in between the chassis and the fan, it will reduces the noise, maybe add more washers and see that help. At the moment I only laid a single washer on each corner of the fan. It is only fast solution before making a radical mod. I forgot the screws, need a bit longer one.
@@cheetahkid it is possible to get rubber washers
I open up the nozzle using 0.4mm drill, been working fine for a long time.
Need to get such a tiny drill bit though 🙃
The issue is not a clogged nozzle. the black finger tension adjustment screw on the extruder release lever is loose and the extruder is not giving enough tension to the filament and giving the appearance of the nozzle being clogged. Try tightening it tight with your fingers and give it a go.
Hey, I am in the same boat thinking it is clogged nozzle, any chance you could help elaborate how tight it must be? should I tighten it all the way? also Do you know if I need to use high flow or high speed filaments? I used the one they gave as test as none of my old filaments work at those high speeds and I see an output that looks a lot like under extrusion. is it because of the screw as well?
Mine works fine and i assume have run 4kg PLA and 1kg PETG through the nozzle
The Z Axis "rattling" sound i also have . but i think actually i will not do anything about it
I changed the PCB fan to Noctua and i have the enclosure (not mounted yet)
But yes .. i think in the future maybe a change to a complete new nozzle system or complete extruder could be a way .. we just have to wait a bit until more
mods appear.
And .. lets see when the Coprint material change system will come
SOVOL printed with the nozzle too low with PETG, SOVOL settings: Damage caused
SOVOL say: 1. The SV08 probe is always calibrated for Zoffset and hot bed grid detection at 65℃, but PETG printing requires a hot bed at 85℃, and the temperature will affect the probe and cause temperature drift; generally, 85℃ and 65℃ hot beds have no effect on printing; Here are two suggestions:
2. Suggestion 1: Heat the hot bed before starting printing, heat the hot bed to 65℃ and keep it for about 15-20 minutes, so that the hot bed is heated evenly, and after the hot bed is heated for a period of time, the hot bed plane has temperature and is generally on a stable surface,so there will be no unevenness caused by thermal expansion and contraction due to sudden heating of the hot bed; when the hot bed is heated to 65℃ and kept for about 15-20 minutes, and then print, the leveling data will be in a stable state
3. Suggestion 2: For temperature drift of the probe sensor, the general detection head will be affected by temperature. It is recommended that users do not heat the hot bed to 85℃ before returning to zero and leveling. It is necessary to ensure that the machine returns to zero when printing, the bed temperature is the same as the gantry leveling, and the bed temperature is the same when the probe grid is leveling. If all the detection actions of the detection head are at the same temperature, the impact of temperature will be relatively small. For damaged parts, please provide photos and we will replace them for you after confirmation. !DONE!
"ePLA" said to print like PLA but much, much better than even PETG
@crosslink do you know if the revo hotend requires any crimping? Or does it already have the correct connectors?
Definitely will need the crimping. I have found sets of pre crimped wires and connectors. Will post them next week when we do the assembly
The Start Gcode has the front Purge Line, I remove mine I use a skirt not a brim to get the filament flowing, etc..
My Start Gcode, not perfect may need some tweaks :-
G28 ; Auto Home
G90 ; Absolute Positioning
G1 X0 F9000 ; Move X at speed
G1 Y20 ; Move Y at speed
G1 Z10 F600 ; Move Z at speed
CLEAN_NOZZLE ; Clean the nozzle, wipe on back brush, remove ooze
START_PRINT ; Start Printing
G90 ; Absolute Positioning
G1 X0 F90000 ; Move X at speed
G1 Y200 ; Move Y at speed
G91 ; Relative Positioning
M83 ; E Relative
M140 S[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single] ;set bed temp
M104 S[nozzle_temperature_initial_layer] ;set extruder temp
M190 S[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single] ;wait for bed temp
M109 S[nozzle_temperature_initial_layer];wait for extruder temp
My view is you need to disassemble Orca Slicer, uninstall and reinstall; JUST full of bugs
"ePLA" said to print like PLA but much, much better than even PETG
Hmm I might be better off getting a Bambu. Not a fan of the spy crap bambu pulls and i really wanted a 350mm build plate. this printer has many issues. I have a qidi max 3 now but i have a sv08 on order. Im really thinking of canceling and getting bambu or a 2nd max 3. I can put on new sensors and end stops ect... but if that nozzle is giving that many issues I would have to change hot ends as well. if i have to change hot ends. and put on a Klicky probe and being told from Sovol support i would void the warranty if im not happy with the bed sensor to put on a klicky? think i would be better off just getting a 2nd max 3 bed leveling and print quality from this max 3 is top tier. I'm retiring all my bed slingers this year. I kinda liked not needing to make my own profiles with the max 3
Buy a troodon 2.0
@@RaffaelloLeanza I kinda want too but at same time dont want to spend 3 weeks and 1,200 into it. I want something i can build a MMU for and i think the sv08 is going to fit that bill? for under $600 and i trust the max 3 to make the parts i need.
@@st0mper121 well, If your only concern is with the hotend. There is already a soultion. Buy a bambu hotend for 16 Bucks and go on printables there is adapter for the sv08 that and the nozzle/ hotend issue or whatever is gone. I have two ratrigs that are both running on bambu hotends since almost two years now and never had any issues, clogs, heatcreeps or anything. Then with the probe. In my opinion the inductive probes in general are not the best choice for levelling as they are temperature dependent deviation in the readings. I used them in the beginning but then swapped to bl touch. The best feature would have been the same system like prusa or creality with the k1 that uses the nozzle itself to probe. Klicky is good as well but as far as I'm concerned you loose a bit of printig space on the printables solution because of the docing station of the probe. I think this will be just a matter of time until someone puts a design out for bl touch on the sv08. In my opinion you can't get a better printer for the money and since it is all open source the community will put out plenty of new stuff. Who knows we might even see the stealthburner soon on the sv08?
I've had my SV08 for a few weeks now and have printed a good 100 hours with it. Apart from problems with the Z-offset, I haven't had any clogging so far. Maybe it really is the nozzles. Or the material. I've only printed PLA+ so far. No high-speed material.
@@jenspaschmann7906 Z offset may actually be the big dipper bed distortion Sovol say use a 30 minute heat soak on larger prints because they know the bed distorts
Hi
Dependency error
The problem with the printer is the user. What a waste of time!