Hi, I printed 12 helical spur gears out of PLA+ for an agricultural seed planter. The gear turns very slowly and is used to grab a seed out of a hopper and drop it down a chute. So far so good.
i work in a printing factory. One of the first things that we printed was a spur gear replacing one made of wood (yes, wood) The machine was so old that there was no replacement parts. This was 3 years ago and the gear is still there, printing km of paper every day :-D Long story short, since then we printed a lot of replacement part, usually we use the PLA gears while we wait for the proper stainless steel part.
The people from Ultimaker were talking about how a very large beer factory does the same thing because the printed spares are so cheap. So it's becoming a somewhat common practice.
I dont know what friction you have but I 3Dprinted a laser printer fuser gear in PLA and it only lasted 1 month; then switched to ABS and lasted 6 months; then turned to Nylon and it's still working after 1 year; so PLA in my experience (and if you look at the physical properties in the specs) is no good for anything that requires constant friction; it cracks easily and wears very fast (for example it's not even good for a sliding external hard drive case!)
@@throwawayaccountm1325 The thing with SLS is that you still need to machine the part after it comes out, it just gives you a starting point closer to the finish line. With PLA spares, you can print the spare, get the part ordered in, then melt the temp help spare back into filament.
I 3d printed a gear for my lathe to get the ratio I needed to cut screw thread of the correct pitch. Works perfectly. I used PETG instead of Nylon because that's what I had available, it seemed like a better choice than PLA for the application.
@@AlexanderBurgers I have the same lathe. And I'm here for the same reason 😁 Great little machine. Works great in my basement for small projects that I don't feel like going out to the garage to turn the heat on to run my clausing 12x48.
@@MrPashee I still think that a flatbed scanner is the better choice unless you go into photogrammetry. You could also try to shoot a video from different angles and then use Blender to track points of interests and compute their 3D space...
Broke a gear and shaft on a hand held label printer at work. Used LocTite with 3mm bolt as shaft and printed gear. Still works a good as new 2 years later!
You, your countyman Thomas, and Joel 3DPN are the best guys in 3D printing world. Also Chris Riley with his tutorials is worth to mention. GJ guys, I learn a lot from you
Hey Stefan, Superb revisit, I remember watching the original video 2 years ago. Doesn't time fly. Loved the tip with the chamfer. I will be referring back to this if I ever need to replace gears. Good to see how well the PLA stood up to the job.
The thickness issue you faced can be take care if by adding the backlash parameter. If gears are made perfect they tend to Jam up and therefore the thickness is reduced and backlash added to make the gears more resilient and mesh better
I havent had a chance to repair any broken gears yet, but I have used the tool to make myself a small dc generator from an old dc motor that is able to charge my phone in emergencies. I was really surprised at the ease of use of the spur gear tool and I thank you for showing me how to use it! I appreciate the content! keep it coming!!
Unbelievable. I was using a salad spinner today and thinking, here's something that failed for us before, because the gears failed. I also thought, this is exactly the kind of thing I would try to print. You rock!
I made an unobtainable head rotation gear for a classic Sony auto reverse cassette deck. The material I used was PLA and the gear was designed using a macro created for 3D printing. The teeth did not mesh properly after I put the gear into use so I used a heat gun to gently heat the gear while I cycled the mechanism and this lapped the gear teeth perfectly to the rack. It has worked flawlessly for 3 years now and I believe this is the easiest way to set the gear lash when using PLA.
I absolutely love that you walked us through that and showed the circle shortcut for the gear teeth mods. I actually feel ready to tackle a gear design when I need to next. Thanks.
Thank you. Nice presentation.Very helpful tips. I had a very similar situation and used the Fusion 360 add-in too. My neighbor needed a gear stack similar to yours, but even smaller. I was still new to 3D printing and thought making it would be a fun project.I spent about two weeks on it! In the end, I made it from Taulman 910 Nylon using a 0.2 brass nozzle. It is still working on his MIG welder 3 years later. Btw, that was a great tip about compensating for elephant foot.
I make hard to find or expensive car parts for local autobody repair shops in town. The most often requested broken part is electric window gears or guides. Generally you have to buy an entire assembly sometimes in the several hundred dollar category. After a $40 dollar nylon printed gear, they are up and running again. thanks for the video:)
This is your first video I have seen and loved your breakdown in fusion 360 about how you refined and set up the gear. I'm starting fusion 360 now after 10 years of using Maya since I just got a 3d printer. Definitely excited to start learning fusion now that I understand the workflow a little better.
Probably the best fusion gear video ever...every step not only shown, but spoken in real time. I've avoided gears entirely until seeing this. Would be awesome to see the process of designing and adding a battery powered electric motor to the salad tosser and ditch the pull cord. It would be cool, plus the elements required to do it would translate to thousands of other projects like r/c boats/cars/aircraft, robotics and even the broken gears and support structure in my stupid bmw seat that keeps breaking :-)
I printed gears for a Pasta machine which is 60 years old, it is called Pastalinda and it was a gift from a firend's mom. Now I have fee pasta since now they work. I use some internet tools to design the ration since I was using Rhinoceros, and just needed the profile. IT works great and stands the abuse
For the wear tests, do a couple of gearboxes, One high rpm to low rpm, as a winch or crane, load it until it breaks, filament that pulled the most weight wins. One low to high rpm, with a fan to provide a constant load, drive the input faster until it breaks, filament that survived the highest rpm wins. If you're up for some suffering, you could try acme thread.
Omg I fixed the exact same mechanism on my salad spinner about a year ago and just found this video. I was so confused seeing this little gear on your thumbnail. That is 100% engineered to break so that people need to buy a new spinner
I've replaced gears on my old 3d printer extruder and then made my own gears to replace the extruder all together. I have a video on the old 3d printer that was over 10 years ago and before the video, the gears worked just fine so they last a very long time. they were PLA only and I had no issues using them for this. I have since moved on to the CR10S pro and thus did not need the old printer anymore and well it has gone to printer heaven lol. but I hope for the best with your salad spinner. I love the work you do and please keep it up.
@@alexanderthomas2660 Yeah, I figure he noticed eventually. I guess it doesn't matter much on a "test print", I mean, it wouldn't even really be that bad the final print. Just not perfect...
Like many here I'm not interested to print anime characters and vases. So this is great.. this type of applications and tests. A simple test rig would be to turn with a motor a gear which is in mesh with a 2nd gear. The 2nd gear could be under measurable frictional tension, and/or be turned on and off with an Arduino, and so on.
GREAT VIDEO! Replicating a gear was my introduction to Fusion 360, took it on for myself and wow! what a challenge. The gear tool certainly was a lifesaver for me as well.
Excellent tutorial, thank you very much, I learned a few new tricks! Your regular videos are great but I would love to see more tutorials from you, very well explained and easy to follow. Cheers!
I never made a replacement gear, but i did make a few 16 teeth MXL pulleies for a printer and they worked great in pla with a 0.25 nozzle. As for the gears, the gears in my printers are all in pla/petg and they work 24/7 no problem and almost 2 years and barely any wear. Once the gears wear in and the lines vanish and the surface becomes smooth, they barely ever wear the downside is the temperature resistance, so i use petg for the small gear that goes on the extruder motor.
@@maxsinventions8913 Exactly. Living and working in Canada requires knowledge of metric, Imperial and USCS for different purposes and industries. All systems can be used to get the same results.
Sounds like people who would say "is it English, or is it wrong?" Right? yeah, measurements are measurements, the standard way of describing them is basically irrelevant as long as they work.
Making hex-head fasteners in 1 mm increments is silly. They're close enough together that, with 12-point sockets, it's very easy to use the wrong one and damage the bolt head or socket. Plus, you have to have an absurd amount of sockets to be able to work on anything. My 3/8 drive metric socket set: 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21. Which ones get used frequently: 10, 15, 17, 21. But, they ALL get used at some point, which means I have to keep around 4 times as many sockets instead of having room for sizes larger than 21. Some metric socket sets don't have enough room to go up to 21 because of all of the other useless sizes they include. 21 is a very common size if you're working on larger things. To not have it included in a socket set is pure thievery enabled by giving us 12 other sockets we'll never use. My 3/8 drive Imperial socket set: 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, 7/16, 1/2, 9/16, 5/8, 11/16, 3/4, 13/16, 7/8, 15/16, 1 inch. All of them get used. Some get used more than others, but, none rarely enough that I regret the set including them. Fewer sockets covering a greater range of bolt sizes. Plus, you can't mistake sizes - even with 12-point sockets. If the socket is too big, it's painfully obvious. It's even more drastic with my 1/2 drive impact sockets. The Imperial set has room for huge sizes that, typically, require buying specialty sockets one at a time as needed. The metric set has so many sockets that will never, ever get used...
Thank you for this video Stefan. Although I have already made gears in Fusion 360, I have learned a lot from it. By the way, I find it amazing how well the PLA has kept it if you actually use this salad dryer a few times a week.
Hey, Stefan! Guten tag. Thank you for taking the time in sharing this. Wow! I am going to buy my bride one of those salad spinners. I've never heard of them before and I am going to save this video to help me learn up on 3D printing.
Great video, loved the practical applications and always love to see new filaments. For your great test, print two matched gears and throw one on a stepper and the other on a brake, soon them up for runtime and brake hard for durability. Good luck, can't wait to see that!
Hey Stefan! Deine Videos sind absolut genial! Du ziehst das Ganze auf eine sehr interessante und dennoch wissenschaftliche Art auf. Deine Videos sind deutlich vorgetragen und nie langweilig. War jetzt kein Anfänger im 3D Druck, hab aber sehr viel durch dich dazu gelernt! Weiter so!
Instead of the chamfer on the inside, you can also use what I've seen referred to as "sacrificial bridging" - make the hole completely closed for one layer's worth of height, the rest prints on top of that, and then you can drill it out.
CNC Kitchen You could do a highspeed and strength test for the gears. One highspeed test for heat and friction and the other for material strength. 😬👍 PS: that gear looked pretty good but those teeth are „cut“ too deep, they are weaker as they could be... 👌
I have another fast method: i just have different gears which i know the modulus for and marked them with a metal paint marker. For example Mod 0,2 / 0,3 / 0,4 / 0,45 / 0,5 and so on . This way i can just test manually the gear in question against known gears. The correct one is which has the least noise/rattle/friction. ( you can either buy gears for this or do the math and label them with a permanent marker. For small gears i use zip bags to label them)
Awesome and practical content. I am completely new to all of this, with my first 3-D printer supposed to be arriving today (Bambu Carbon X1). Your channel popped up in my searches, and I like some of the practical uses that you outline beyond an expensive hobby.
@@ElectricalInsanity I assume the only good aspect of imperial system is that it people tend to use more standard sizes in it. People are lazy, and nobody likes to use complicated fractions like 5/17 of an inch. This way more different things fit together =) It should be also quite handy in sailing .
I like Imperial because it's so darn simple... Just remember 1 thou is 1/12,000th of a foot, 1 inch is 1000 thou, 1 link is 7.92 inches, 1 foot is 12 inches, 1 rod is 25 links, 1 yard is 3 feet, 1 chain is 22 yards, 1 furlong is 10 chains, 1 mile is 8 furlongs, 1 league is 3 miles, 1 fathom is 2.02667 yards, 1 cable is 100 fathoms, and 1 nautical mile is 10 cables. See??? Simple.
@@deceitive3338 A thou is a concept that is probably derived from metric system. The good thing in inches, feet, and yards is that you actually always carry your ruler with you. And it is ok in applications where having lots of sizes with millimeter incement is not needed. In some sence imperial system implicitly restricts variety in dimentions that is sometimes undesirable . That is why imperial BSP threads are international standard in plumbing.
Wahnsinn, wie sich Dein Englisch seit den ersten Videos verbessert hat. Weiterhin viel Erfolg... Impressive how your english improved since the fist videos. Good luck in the Future...
We have fixed a similar spur gear in an Ariete Gratì cheese grater by printing a replacement part with our Creality CR-10s, using standard PLA. Still doing good after 9 months.
I printed a replacement gear for a bread cutter, using PETG. Although the original had a metal insert with internal thread, I opted for cutting the thread directly into the plastic and it works great. If it ever fails, I will redo it with the original insert, but my guess is it wil probably live longer than the original one (and likely than the rest of the machine!)
"The English way" although imperial came from Britain we use metric too now (since 1965) although some strange places imperial hold fast like distances/speed limits on road signs
@@Runoratsu stones for weights lol, so funny. I watch BBC stuff all the time and they do not use kg's or km's. Not sure in what world that constitutes as adopting the metric system lol. Maybe you use ml and mm and occasionally celsius, from here in AU, mother england does not appear to have adopted metric in any meaningful way 😂
I've been using metric for a long time, in the US. Back in the 90s marine companies used imperial inches for cabinetry, bulkheads, and other wood based items that would be built in local wood shops but that's about it..all else went to metric. So much cleaner and easier to work with.
I printed gears for a DIY filament drive unit (feeds filament out of a dry box to reduce load on the extruder) out of PLA and they work great. Gears are a surprisingly good application for 3D printing. PLA seems to be self lubricating with good resistance to wear and good strength and rigidity (observation). For testing you could set up a PWM motor to drive a gearbox. Tests should either be high speed with no (or very little) load, or low speed with high load depending on your objective. It's not reasonable to expect plastic gears to do both high speed under high load (that's what hardened steel is for). You could then test the gears constantly night and day or to destruction to gauge the wear characteristics, point of failure, and MTBF. I use the gear plugin for FreeCad, which seems to work in a similar manner to the F360 plugin you demonstrated. You specify modulus and number of teeth etc.
Gear wear etc. testing - An idea. Use sand or other abrasive unwanted material + water, ice/snow/Schneematsch what ever + combinations. Perhaps varying grain sizes and amount. Maybe sand gets attached depending on the filament type, surface structure etc. printing parameters. For force testing, adapt from your current setup: add load linearly, observe breakage; your angularily falling hammer to crash a static or moving gear structure. Relating problem for BICYCLISTS: what is the best lubricant for chains? Basic paradox: the more lubricant, the more dirt gets stuck, abrasing gears. Or are some lubricants less adhesive? DUNNO Thank you for your videos. When the world lacks certainty, your videos are a savior. Vielen Dank :)
My first (and only) self-designed 3d part was a gear much like yours but for a battery-powered automatic coin-sorter (very useful when raising money for youth sports teams). I found an online tool to generate the gears, merged them in blender, and managed to print them with the machine at the office, I think with a 0.6 nozzle. It took a number of tries and clean-up with a sharp knife but is still working 8y later. I fixed a design-flaw at the same time: the gear barely meshed with the worm driving it which is why the original one wore out.
Oh, SWorks is so much easier! And you even don't need to add chamfers to the pattern (usually) if that was edited in the history. But the tutorial is helpful! These formulae are just what everybody need for this topic! BTW, if you don't have all that parametric then you can add the chamfer just by adding a cone(s) and substract it from the body.
Stefan: I can't verify this now, but if I'm not mistaken, you can double-click on a line segment that is part of an outline to select the entire outline. In the case of trying to do a chamfer on that bottom edge, it might save some time. I know this works in sketch mode but I can't remember if it works on parts - my apologies if it doesn't. Excellent stuff!
Oh. I should have reserved my comment until I watched a little farther. Given the different chamfers you needed on the inner edge and the tips of the spurs, I think my method wouldn't work in any case! Sorry.
i've made plenty of gear prints, a gear for my 80's action invader robot, which also needed a new set of legs to be printed, i fixed a U-Command Wall-E i got off ebay, which had both large gears broken, i've also printed the selector gear for a robot that changes functions(walk and spin), also designed and printed walking mechanism gears for any power destroyer robot, also for HAP-P-KID Turbo Fighter/super fighter/robot sergeant/all the ones with that structure. hopefully some day i'll replace my 0.4 nozzle with a 0.2 and make the gears with more details. it always takes me a bunch of tests to nail the size and proper linkage between teeth, but so far it always succeeds.
Elephant foot? Oh it's 3 years old. Add to the long list of things Prusa has fixed. Awesome video, some nice tricks like cross section view I wasn't aware of
If Stephan's time is worth 3 euros an hour, that salad spinner is worth its weight in .... silver, probably. Still, great video! Really good production.
Very good presentation of a complicated process. I’m trying to learn 3D printing (don’t even have a printer yet) and this kind of content is very helpful. Thank you for sharing your experience.
If you can’t go back and chamfer individual teeth like that, a trick I use is make a profile from the side where you want to cut, and revolve it around the component. Revolve is a very powerful tool.
Generate the smaller one 5mm taller then merge without moving. Saves you 1 step. Extruded pockets on top and bottom and chamfer can be done with 1 revolve cut.
This is CAD golf. In software, we have code golf, and I despise it. Nobody does it for serious work though. It is just sport. Of course, some shortenings are real improvements, but so many are just "look at how clever I am!" contests, which some people mistake for real improvements.
You could use a variable speed drill in order to see how the parts perform over long periods of use without actually taking a long time. You could also apply some load to the work gear that you are turning with your test gear and that should allow for some resistance.
Oh man thanks, I didn't know about the "calibrate" function on the canvas, man I always calculated it by myself and scaled it up and down, what a waste of time! :)
You are my favorite creator by far. Your engineering approach and focus on detail is great! I am curious which brand and type filement did you use to print the gear?
20:48 Love the content man! Just can't believe you used a drill to power tap a M3 into like 1/8th inch thick material. It needed like 2 rotations by hand my guy.
Actually, printing small gear was more or less one of the first usage of my 3d printer. And it was used to make a replacement for lost gear (originally not fixed good enough on shaft of motor) on a professional laboratory centrifuge. I had to play A LOT with parameters for gear to be just right, but I got it. And it was indeed with 0.25mm nozzle (printing in ABS). For modelling i used FreeCAD v 0.18 with an add on for gears. This repair works fine even after 1,5 years of daily use (but mechanism is not under big load)... So, a quick fix turned quite robust :)
Great video! I would love to see some tests addresing 3D printed gears, maybe allowable torque and speeds to see whether they will melt or maybe fail in some other way
Check out @GearDownForWhat. They're almost entirely focused on 3DP gears. I agree that I would like to see a more scientifically detailed examination of individual gears from @CNCKitchen, though.
Excellent video. I learned about 360 gears with Paul McWhorter's latest 360 class, this added some details, especially about replicating an existing gear. I have an old Sharp front load turntable whose tray load gear broke so I'm planning on printing a new one.
Regarding wear tests have a chat with guys from igus as the topic of wear is one of their biggest strengths and they show that regularly on trade fairs
The gear is placed on a metal shaft. For Nylon gears, this is an eventual death sentence. As PA loses water with time and shrinks, it will eventually not only become significantly more brittle, the force of the shaft becomes enormous as it shrinks and will eventually split it right open. I don't know how old that salad spinner of yours is, but normally you expect PA gears to last for upwards of 10 years though, so this is generally considered adequate.
For designing a simple gear, this is a great tool. If you'd like to optimize your gear for more durability, you won't be able to do so without special tools as GWJ eAssistant and GearEngineer for example. Sadly they are very expensive and complex.
You can do the math yourself. A lot of it actually isn't that complicated to do either. You won't be able to get precise numbers, but you will be able to do the math for how one gear shape will do compared to another fairly easily. I actually just did so for a gearbox I'm currently printing.
What you can do is to print them, check with a file if somethings a bit fishy like lines etc..then you put the gear on a plastic sheet or a bucket bottom, secured with hot glue or equal. Pour alginate on it, turn around, remove gear and just pour in chemical metal, epoxi or what you like and its very very good and easy. The pla is nice, hardened epoxi is brutal.
I was really surprised there is a free gear design tool in fusion360, I already have the program but forgot about it, and was struggling creating gear I needed in other CAD. Thanks for a useful heads up!
![SAFEPLANET - ดาวเคราะห์ [ THE PLANET ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4X1XL3I_k3c/mqdefault.jpg)
We don't get enough long-term durability tests on 3d prints. This video is very much appreciated.
Hi, I printed 12 helical spur gears out of PLA+ for an agricultural seed planter. The gear turns very slowly and is used to grab a seed out of a hopper and drop it down a chute. So far so good.
I printed gear for car wipers from PETG half a year ago. Still works.
I use PETG too! Countless parts: levers, gears, handles, boxes and etc. Still works perfectly!
i work in a printing factory. One of the first things that we printed was a spur gear replacing one made of wood (yes, wood)
The machine was so old that there was no replacement parts.
This was 3 years ago and the gear is still there, printing km of paper every day :-D
Long story short, since then we printed a lot of replacement part, usually we use the PLA gears while we wait for the proper stainless steel part.
The people from Ultimaker were talking about how a very large beer factory does the same thing because the printed spares are so cheap. So it's becoming a somewhat common practice.
I dont know what friction you have but I 3Dprinted a laser printer fuser gear in PLA and it only lasted 1 month; then switched to ABS and lasted 6 months; then turned to Nylon and it's still working after 1 year; so PLA in my experience (and if you look at the physical properties in the specs) is no good for anything that requires constant friction; it cracks easily and wears very fast (for example it's not even good for a sliding external hard drive case!)
Maybe you should get and sls printer to print Metall parts ?
@@clarkkent6026 I printed some small sieves. I wish I could or had made them interlocked while stacked to reduce dust emmision. (5, 4, 3 and 2 mm)
@@throwawayaccountm1325 The thing with SLS is that you still need to machine the part after it comes out, it just gives you a starting point closer to the finish line. With PLA spares, you can print the spare, get the part ordered in, then melt the temp help spare back into filament.
Thank you, there needs to be much more "gears for non-engineers" content out there.
I 3d printed a gear for my lathe to get the ratio I needed to cut screw thread of the correct pitch. Works perfectly.
I used PETG instead of Nylon because that's what I had available, it seemed like a better choice than PLA for the application.
What size is that late?
@@jonathanhodel3832 Tiny. it's an Atlas 618 (6"x18") machine from the 1950's, more or less comparable to the mini lathes of today.
@@AlexanderBurgers ah ok, thanks! I just tried to 3d print a gear for a doughmixer, worked once and broke the 2nd time :/ guess i'll order part :)
@@AlexanderBurgers I have the same lathe. And I'm here for the same reason 😁 Great little machine. Works great in my basement for small projects that I don't feel like going out to the garage to turn the heat on to run my clausing 12x48.
A good way to create reference images for 2D parts is to put them on a flatbed scanner.
This
Yes! And put a ruler next to it, so it's easier to get the size correct
Yea but most of them have very small depth of field and scanned stuff will be not in focus(
@@MrPashee I still think that a flatbed scanner is the better choice unless you go into photogrammetry. You could also try to shoot a video from different angles and then use Blender to track points of interests and compute their 3D space...
this is a neat idea.
Thank you so much for including keyboard details...so few teachers understand new users struggle navigating the key combinations.
Broke a gear and shaft on a hand held label printer at work. Used LocTite with 3mm bolt as shaft and printed gear. Still works a good as new 2 years later!
LocTite is great
First Time I EVER bought something from an affiliate link.
...it was the salad spinner 🤦♂️
You, your countyman Thomas, and Joel 3DPN are the best guys in 3D printing world. Also Chris Riley with his tutorials is worth to mention. GJ guys, I learn a lot from you
Dont forget Angus from Makers Muse
@@TheLogneo yeah man, Angus is great guy too... Sorry MM
Hey Stefan, Superb revisit, I remember watching the original video 2 years ago. Doesn't time fly.
Loved the tip with the chamfer. I will be referring back to this if I ever need to replace gears. Good to see how well the PLA stood up to the job.
The thickness issue you faced can be take care if by adding the backlash parameter. If gears are made perfect they tend to Jam up and therefore the thickness is reduced and backlash added to make the gears more resilient and mesh better
I havent had a chance to repair any broken gears yet, but I have used the tool to make myself a small dc generator from an old dc motor that is able to charge my phone in emergencies. I was really surprised at the ease of use of the spur gear tool and I thank you for showing me how to use it! I appreciate the content! keep it coming!!
"Because metric" is probably the best explanation for any machining problem.
BECAUSE IT'S SENSIBLE!
Somewhere out there, someone is spending $1000+ on a Prusa to fix their $20 salad spinner after watching this video.
IF they were smart they could go cheap and get an Anet A8.
@@dragnet53 You missed the point entirely.
wxfield lmao
How do you know if someone owns a 3d printer? They get excited when something breaks
@@romjab Luckely sheet metal printing or bones printing is not possible or as easy. Or even a soul printer.
Recommend using a flat bed scanner to get reference images of flat surfaces. They don’t really have parallax error like a camera does.
Unbelievable. I was using a salad spinner today and thinking, here's something that failed for us before, because the gears failed. I also thought, this is exactly the kind of thing I would try to print.
You rock!
I made an unobtainable head rotation gear for a classic Sony auto reverse cassette deck. The material I used was PLA and the gear was designed using a macro created for 3D printing. The teeth did not mesh properly after I put the gear into use so I used a heat gun to gently heat the gear while I cycled the mechanism and this lapped the gear teeth perfectly to the rack. It has worked flawlessly for 3 years now and I believe this is the easiest way to set the gear lash when using PLA.
I absolutely love that you walked us through that and showed the circle shortcut for the gear teeth mods. I actually feel ready to tackle a gear design when I need to next. Thanks.
Thank you. Nice presentation.Very helpful tips. I had a very similar situation and used the Fusion 360 add-in too. My neighbor needed a gear stack similar to yours, but even smaller. I was still new to 3D printing and thought making it would be a fun project.I spent about two weeks on it! In the end, I made it from Taulman 910 Nylon using a 0.2 brass nozzle. It is still working on his MIG welder 3 years later. Btw, that was a great tip about compensating for elephant foot.
I make hard to find or expensive car parts for local autobody repair shops in town. The most often requested broken part is electric window gears or guides. Generally you have to buy an entire assembly sometimes in the several hundred dollar category. After a $40 dollar nylon printed gear, they are up and running again. thanks for the video:)
This is your first video I have seen and loved your breakdown in fusion 360 about how you refined and set up the gear. I'm starting fusion 360 now after 10 years of using Maya since I just got a 3d printer. Definitely excited to start learning fusion now that I understand the workflow a little better.
printed a nylon gear for an oil pump in a rotary die cutting machine at work, still holding up after 1 year
Salatschleuder: Lass mich sterben!
Stefan: Nein!
🤣
Awesome video and great tutorial! 👍
Probably the best fusion gear video ever...every step not only shown, but spoken in real time. I've avoided gears entirely until seeing this.
Would be awesome to see the process of designing and adding a battery powered electric motor to the salad tosser and ditch the pull cord. It would be cool, plus the elements required to do it would translate to thousands of other projects like r/c boats/cars/aircraft, robotics and even the broken gears and support structure in my stupid bmw seat that keeps breaking :-)
I printed gears for a Pasta machine which is 60 years old, it is called Pastalinda and it was a gift from a firend's mom. Now I have fee pasta since now they work. I use some internet tools to design the ration since I was using Rhinoceros, and just needed the profile. IT works great and stands the abuse
For the wear tests, do a couple of gearboxes, One high rpm to low rpm, as a winch or crane, load it until it breaks, filament that pulled the most weight wins. One low to high rpm, with a fan to provide a constant load, drive the input faster until it breaks, filament that survived the highest rpm wins. If you're up for some suffering, you could try acme thread.
fan is not constant load. its curve goes up with its speed roughly quadratically.
@@km5405 The load is constant, as in, constantly applied, as in, there isn't a time where there is no load.
Omg I fixed the exact same mechanism on my salad spinner about a year ago and just found this video. I was so confused seeing this little gear on your thumbnail. That is 100% engineered to break so that people need to buy a new spinner
I've replaced gears on my old 3d printer extruder and then made my own gears to replace the extruder all together. I have a video on the old 3d printer that was over 10 years ago and before the video, the gears worked just fine so they last a very long time. they were PLA only and I had no issues using them for this. I have since moved on to the CR10S pro and thus did not need the old printer anymore and well it has gone to printer heaven lol. but I hope for the best with your salad spinner. I love the work you do and please keep it up.
You missed a tooth with the bottom chamfer (17:35)... Maybe it would have been better to compensate in the slicer after all. :P
He did get it right on the final gear though!
@@alexanderthomas2660 Yeah, I figure he noticed eventually. I guess it doesn't matter much on a "test print", I mean, it wouldn't even really be that bad the final print. Just not perfect...
Like many here I'm not interested to print anime characters and vases. So this is great.. this type of applications and tests.
A simple test rig would be to turn with a motor a gear which is in mesh with a 2nd gear. The 2nd gear could be under measurable frictional tension, and/or be turned on and off with an Arduino, and so on.
GREAT VIDEO! Replicating a gear was my introduction to Fusion 360, took it on for myself and wow! what a challenge. The gear tool certainly was a lifesaver for me as well.
Stefan
Thank you so much. As an F360 neophyte I just learned an immense amount of info.
Excellent tutorial, thank you very much, I learned a few new tricks! Your regular videos are great but I would love to see more tutorials from you, very well explained and easy to follow. Cheers!
Thank you, I'll see what I can do.
I never made a replacement gear, but i did make a few 16 teeth MXL pulleies for a printer and they worked great in pla with a 0.25 nozzle. As for the gears, the gears in my printers are all in pla/petg and they work 24/7 no problem and almost 2 years and barely any wear.
Once the gears wear in and the lines vanish and the surface becomes smooth, they barely ever wear the downside is the temperature resistance, so i use petg for the small gear that goes on the extruder motor.
"Because, metric." Say no more. When inquiring which set of tools a task requires, I like to ask, "Is it metric or is it wrong?".
I refer to imperial units as stupids. Makes it easier than remebering what lbs and oz really stand for.
I use both. You shouldn't be versed in only one. Lots of money in the US. People who think this way are the reason why mistakes happen.
@@maxsinventions8913
Exactly. Living and working in Canada requires knowledge of metric, Imperial and USCS for different purposes and industries. All systems can be used to get the same results.
Sounds like people who would say "is it English, or is it wrong?" Right? yeah, measurements are measurements, the standard way of describing them is basically irrelevant as long as they work.
Making hex-head fasteners in 1 mm increments is silly. They're close enough together that, with 12-point sockets, it's very easy to use the wrong one and damage the bolt head or socket. Plus, you have to have an absurd amount of sockets to be able to work on anything. My 3/8 drive metric socket set: 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21. Which ones get used frequently: 10, 15, 17, 21. But, they ALL get used at some point, which means I have to keep around 4 times as many sockets instead of having room for sizes larger than 21. Some metric socket sets don't have enough room to go up to 21 because of all of the other useless sizes they include. 21 is a very common size if you're working on larger things. To not have it included in a socket set is pure thievery enabled by giving us 12 other sockets we'll never use.
My 3/8 drive Imperial socket set: 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, 7/16, 1/2, 9/16, 5/8, 11/16, 3/4, 13/16, 7/8, 15/16, 1 inch. All of them get used. Some get used more than others, but, none rarely enough that I regret the set including them. Fewer sockets covering a greater range of bolt sizes. Plus, you can't mistake sizes - even with 12-point sockets. If the socket is too big, it's painfully obvious.
It's even more drastic with my 1/2 drive impact sockets. The Imperial set has room for huge sizes that, typically, require buying specialty sockets one at a time as needed. The metric set has so many sockets that will never, ever get used...
Thank you for this video Stefan.
Although I have already made gears in Fusion 360, I have learned a lot from it. By the way, I find it amazing how well the PLA has kept it if you actually use this salad dryer a few times a week.
Hey, Stefan! Guten tag.
Thank you for taking the time in sharing this. Wow! I am going to buy my bride one of those salad spinners. I've never heard of them before and I am going to save this video to help me learn up on 3D printing.
Great video, loved the practical applications and always love to see new filaments. For your great test, print two matched gears and throw one on a stepper and the other on a brake, soon them up for runtime and brake hard for durability. Good luck, can't wait to see that!
Hey Stefan! Deine Videos sind absolut genial!
Du ziehst das Ganze auf eine sehr interessante und dennoch wissenschaftliche Art auf.
Deine Videos sind deutlich vorgetragen und nie langweilig.
War jetzt kein Anfänger im 3D Druck, hab aber sehr viel durch dich dazu gelernt!
Weiter so!
This was absolutly an amazing Video and Walk through Stefan. Thank you for this. Please Keep up the Good work.
Instead of the chamfer on the inside, you can also use what I've seen referred to as "sacrificial bridging" - make the hole completely closed for one layer's worth of height, the rest prints on top of that, and then you can drill it out.
the channel name gets more and more literally
Feel free to share the video on Facebook, Reddit, Twitter and other social media!
I'm liking your thumbnail
CNC Kitchen You could do a highspeed and strength test for the gears. One highspeed test for heat and friction and the other for material strength. 😬👍
PS: that gear looked pretty good but those teeth are „cut“ too deep, they are weaker as they could be... 👌
I have another fast method:
i just have different gears which i know the modulus for and marked them with a metal paint marker. For example Mod 0,2 / 0,3 / 0,4 / 0,45 / 0,5 and so on .
This way i can just test manually the gear in question against known gears. The correct one is which has the least noise/rattle/friction. ( you can either buy gears for this or do the math and label them with a permanent marker. For small gears i use zip bags to label them)
Awesome and practical content. I am completely new to all of this, with my first 3-D printer supposed to be arriving today (Bambu Carbon X1). Your channel popped up in my searches, and I like some of the practical uses that you outline beyond an expensive hobby.
why metric? because metric. xD
As an engineer from the US, metric is superior in every way.
@@ElectricalInsanity whoever says smth different is just pail stupid.
@@ElectricalInsanity I assume the only good aspect of imperial system is that it people tend to use more standard sizes in it. People are lazy, and nobody likes to use complicated fractions like 5/17 of an inch. This way more different things fit together =)
It should be also quite handy in sailing .
I like Imperial because it's so darn simple... Just remember 1 thou is 1/12,000th of a foot, 1 inch is 1000 thou, 1 link is 7.92 inches, 1 foot is 12 inches, 1 rod is 25 links, 1 yard is 3 feet, 1 chain is 22 yards, 1 furlong is 10 chains, 1 mile is 8 furlongs, 1 league is 3 miles, 1 fathom is 2.02667 yards, 1 cable is 100 fathoms, and 1 nautical mile is 10 cables.
See??? Simple.
@@deceitive3338 A thou is a concept that is probably derived from metric system. The good thing in inches, feet, and yards is that you actually always carry your ruler with you. And it is ok in applications where having lots of sizes with millimeter incement is not needed. In some sence imperial system implicitly restricts variety in dimentions that is sometimes undesirable . That is why imperial BSP threads are international standard in plumbing.
For those that wondered what RMB is as well, it's lingo for "Right mouse Button" - I had to stop the video and wonder for a second what that was :D
Wahnsinn, wie sich Dein Englisch seit den ersten Videos verbessert hat. Weiterhin viel Erfolg... Impressive how your english improved since the fist videos. Good luck in the Future...
We have fixed a similar spur gear in an Ariete Gratì cheese grater by printing a replacement part with our Creality CR-10s, using standard PLA. Still doing good after 9 months.
I printed a replacement gear for a bread cutter, using PETG.
Although the original had a metal insert with internal thread, I opted for cutting the thread directly into the plastic and it works great. If it ever fails, I will redo it with the original insert, but my guess is it wil probably live longer than the original one (and likely than the rest of the machine!)
"The English way" although imperial came from Britain we use metric too now (since 1965) although some strange places imperial hold fast like distances/speed limits on road signs
And stones for weights. And pints for beer! And pounds for money. 😜
@@Runoratsu stones for weights lol, so funny. I watch BBC stuff all the time and they do not use kg's or km's. Not sure in what world that constitutes as adopting the metric system lol. Maybe you use ml and mm and occasionally celsius, from here in AU, mother england does not appear to have adopted metric in any meaningful way 😂
Well this certainly aged well
I've been using metric for a long time, in the US. Back in the 90s marine companies used imperial inches for cabinetry, bulkheads, and other wood based items that would be built in local wood shops but that's about it..all else went to metric. So much cleaner and easier to work with.
I printed gears for a DIY filament drive unit (feeds filament out of a dry box to reduce load on the extruder) out of PLA and they work great. Gears are a surprisingly good application for 3D printing. PLA seems to be self lubricating with good resistance to wear and good strength and rigidity (observation).
For testing you could set up a PWM motor to drive a gearbox. Tests should either be high speed with no (or very little) load, or low speed with high load depending on your objective. It's not reasonable to expect plastic gears to do both high speed under high load (that's what hardened steel is for).
You could then test the gears constantly night and day or to destruction to gauge the wear characteristics, point of failure, and MTBF.
I use the gear plugin for FreeCad, which seems to work in a similar manner to the F360 plugin you demonstrated. You specify modulus and number of teeth etc.
That thumbnail is so ridiculous you could be in a 90's pop band! :D
Ahahahahah
Looks like a Dr Seuss drawing
Yeah tbh I didn't even recognize him in it! My initial reaction was "Who the hell is this creep?" Hahaha
I really liked learning more about designing mechanical components!
Printed a replacement gear for my Littermaid. The nylon had issues with layer adhesion, but the PLA worked perfectly.
Gear wear etc. testing - An idea. Use sand or other abrasive unwanted material + water, ice/snow/Schneematsch what ever + combinations. Perhaps varying grain sizes and amount. Maybe sand gets attached depending on the filament type, surface structure etc. printing parameters.
For force testing, adapt from your current setup: add load linearly, observe breakage; your angularily falling hammer to crash a static or moving gear structure.
Relating problem for BICYCLISTS: what is the best lubricant for chains? Basic paradox: the more lubricant, the more dirt gets stuck, abrasing gears. Or are some lubricants less adhesive? DUNNO
Thank you for your videos. When the world lacks certainty, your videos are a savior. Vielen Dank :)
My first (and only) self-designed 3d part was a gear much like yours but for a battery-powered automatic coin-sorter (very useful when raising money for youth sports teams). I found an online tool to generate the gears, merged them in blender, and managed to print them with the machine at the office, I think with a 0.6 nozzle. It took a number of tries and clean-up with a sharp knife but is still working 8y later. I fixed a design-flaw at the same time: the gear barely meshed with the worm driving it which is why the original one wore out.
Great video Stefan, great tip about the chamfer inside the gear to aid in 3d printing...I will use that in the future :)
I always wonder how you would make a gear in f360, thanks for sharing.
Oh, SWorks is so much easier! And you even don't need to add chamfers to the pattern (usually) if that was edited in the history.
But the tutorial is helpful! These formulae are just what everybody need for this topic!
BTW, if you don't have all that parametric then you can add the chamfer just by adding a cone(s) and substract it from the body.
Stefan: I can't verify this now, but if I'm not mistaken, you can double-click on a line segment that is part of an outline to select the entire outline. In the case of trying to do a chamfer on that bottom edge, it might save some time.
I know this works in sketch mode but I can't remember if it works on parts - my apologies if it doesn't.
Excellent stuff!
Oh. I should have reserved my comment until I watched a little farther. Given the different chamfers you needed on the inner edge and the tips of the spurs, I think my method wouldn't work in any case! Sorry.
I loved the human voiceover while in fusion. Your regular voice honestly feels a bit robotic.
Great content either way
Thanks for showing that gear tool! Now I want to make something geared! Great video
great info. im a newbie to 360, so knowing it has a hidden gear menu is very useful
i've made plenty of gear prints, a gear for my 80's action invader robot, which also needed a new set of legs to be printed, i fixed a U-Command Wall-E i got off ebay, which had both large gears broken, i've also printed the selector gear for a robot that changes functions(walk and spin), also designed and printed walking mechanism gears for any power destroyer robot, also for HAP-P-KID Turbo Fighter/super fighter/robot sergeant/all the ones with that structure. hopefully some day i'll replace my 0.4 nozzle with a 0.2 and make the gears with more details. it always takes me a bunch of tests to nail the size and proper linkage between teeth, but so far it always succeeds.
Elephant foot? Oh it's 3 years old. Add to the long list of things Prusa has fixed. Awesome video, some nice tricks like cross section view I wasn't aware of
If Stephan's time is worth 3 euros an hour, that salad spinner is worth its weight in .... silver, probably.
Still, great video! Really good production.
Very good presentation of a complicated process. I’m trying to learn 3D printing (don’t even have a printer yet) and this kind of content is very helpful. Thank you for sharing your experience.
I manufactured metric gears and splined shafts in all sizes and types for five years at my company, this video pleases me
If you can’t go back and chamfer individual teeth like that, a trick I use is make a profile from the side where you want to cut, and revolve it around the component. Revolve is a very powerful tool.
Gears are probably the most fun things to 3D print! I made a lot of them, and even printed a 0.5 module gear with a 0.4mm nozzle.
Generate the smaller one 5mm taller then merge without moving. Saves you 1 step.
Extruded pockets on top and bottom and chamfer can be done with 1 revolve cut.
This is CAD golf.
In software, we have code golf, and I despise it. Nobody does it for serious work though. It is just sport.
Of course, some shortenings are real improvements, but so many are just "look at how clever I am!" contests, which some people mistake for real improvements.
Thank you so much for this amazing step by step explanation and toutorial. You do great work Stefan!
Great video Stefan. Lots of good tips and techniques.
You could use a variable speed drill in order to see how the parts perform over long periods of use without actually taking a long time. You could also apply some load to the work gear that you are turning with your test gear and that should allow for some resistance.
I don’t think I will ever look at a salad spinner in the same way again! Very interesting Stefan. Bicycle gears??? You have to try it...........
Oh man thanks, I didn't know about the "calibrate" function on the canvas, man I always calculated it by myself and scaled it up and down, what a waste of time! :)
Good to know. I made a replacement actuator gear for a car AC a few months back. Was wondering if it would last. Thank you
Awesome video and excellent explained. Now even I can print gears ! Thnxs for sharing !
You are my favorite creator by far. Your engineering approach and focus on detail is great! I am curious which brand and type filement did you use to print the gear?
That was PA12 Lite from Fiberthree but that's currently not available for hobbyists.
Lettuce praise these durable gears!
20:48 Love the content man! Just can't believe you used a drill to power tap a M3 into like 1/8th inch thick material. It needed like 2 rotations by hand my guy.
Actually, printing small gear was more or less one of the first usage of my 3d printer. And it was used to make a replacement for lost gear (originally not fixed good enough on shaft of motor) on a professional laboratory centrifuge. I had to play A LOT with parameters for gear to be just right, but I got it. And it was indeed with 0.25mm nozzle (printing in ABS). For modelling i used FreeCAD v 0.18 with an add on for gears. This repair works fine even after 1,5 years of daily use (but mechanism is not under big load)... So, a quick fix turned quite robust :)
Great video! I would love to see some tests addresing 3D printed gears, maybe allowable torque and speeds to see whether they will melt or maybe fail in some other way
Check out @GearDownForWhat. They're almost entirely focused on 3DP gears. I agree that I would like to see a more scientifically detailed examination of individual gears from @CNCKitchen, though.
@@claws61821 thanks, I know his channel :D but I would love to see some scientific-ish data regarding printed gears
Excellent video. I learned about 360 gears with Paul McWhorter's latest 360 class, this added some details, especially about replicating an existing gear.
I have an old Sharp front load turntable whose tray load gear broke so I'm planning on printing a new one.
oh wow I remember this, your video was one of the things that inspired me to learn CAD. haha so weird to look back.
Great to hear that!
Even better, I learnt some new stuff this time around too! Thanks again!
Regarding wear tests have a chat with guys from igus as the topic of wear is one of their biggest strengths and they show that regularly on trade fairs
"The number of gears is.........18 millimeter".....
Fantastic! Just fantastic!
GREAT mechanical engineering overview!!! Great job!
I printed some M2 gears for my lathe several years ago, they are still in very good condition!
The gear is placed on a metal shaft. For Nylon gears, this is an eventual death sentence. As PA loses water with time and shrinks, it will eventually not only become significantly more brittle, the force of the shaft becomes enormous as it shrinks and will eventually split it right open. I don't know how old that salad spinner of yours is, but normally you expect PA gears to last for upwards of 10 years though, so this is generally considered adequate.
Man, just a gorgeous bloke, what a lovely mind he has! No homo, just loving his logical process, exactly how I rollll.
For designing a simple gear, this is a great tool. If you'd like to optimize your gear for more durability, you won't be able to do so without special tools as GWJ eAssistant and GearEngineer for example. Sadly they are very expensive and complex.
You can do the math yourself. A lot of it actually isn't that complicated to do either. You won't be able to get precise numbers, but you will be able to do the math for how one gear shape will do compared to another fairly easily. I actually just did so for a gearbox I'm currently printing.
What you can do is to print them, check with a file if somethings a bit fishy like lines etc..then you put the gear on a plastic sheet or a bucket bottom, secured with hot glue or equal. Pour alginate on it, turn around, remove gear and just pour in chemical metal, epoxi or what you like and its very very good and easy. The pla is nice, hardened epoxi is brutal.
I was really surprised there is a free gear design tool in fusion360, I already have the program but forgot about it, and was struggling creating gear I needed in other CAD. Thanks for a useful heads up!
A very nicely made video. I'm exploring all the possible uses for my 3D printer and this is extremely helpful. Thank you, tschuss
This was super helpful. I needed this. And thanks for the lead on the nylon filament! 👍
making gears this small gives me hope i could one day print desk clock molds and make some brass gears for one :)