Kevin. I find your teaching style to be VERY EXCELLENT. As a new Fusion360 student and new to 3D designs, your explanations are very helpful. You are slow, articulate and demonstrate where to find the button clicks and methods clearly. I find just learning the steps and sequences difficult. I have problems learning how to undo mistakes...I think I get the timeline method to go back. I often have to hunt around to find what is needed next, but to be honest, watching your tutorials repeatedly helps to reinforce my own understanding of what, why and how. Thanks for producing a great series of shows.
This tutorial worked great but I can't believe I printed completely functional M2.6X0.45 threads on an Ender 3 V2 with 0.4 nozzle. Even the entry level machines are becoming so amazing!! Thanks to your tutorial I even got it on the first try!
I'd consider myself to already be quite familiar with fusion. I still found your video tremendously helpful. I pulled this video up just to see if there even was a dedicated thread tool and I was pleasantly surprised to be greeted with a clear and descriptive tutorial. The advice you gave and the explanation for altering the tolerances will definitely save me some time. I also appreciate that you don't skip over anything. I've never seen the option you used to view a cross section and I'm glad I'm aware of it now. If I'm looking for more fusion tutorials, I will definitely come here. Thank you for such high quality content.
Okay, There are few things more frustrating that trying to learn all the co-dependencies and intricacies of Fusion 360. Forget to check a box or choose an option and it is off to bang your head against the wall as hard as you can just so the pain stops when you quit banging your head against a wall. Your video is better than on-spot. I have viewed a nauseating amount of videos to create a working nut and bolt. By far, this video is more comprehensive than all I have viewed. Thank you for taking the time to explain the various tools to create threaded nut and threaded bolt . Then you go further to explain how to modify the threads surfaces to make a perfect fit. Fantastic video. Keep them coming.
I never really sat down and watched any videos on fusion 360 and rather fiddled on my own, but I learned a lot from this video. Thanks a bunch, I'm making a large thread for mounting a chuck on.
I've watched a few of your tutorials now and have picked up a number of things. You do a great job of illustrating a projects steps and capture a lot of the interface subtleties that I've struggled with as a novice. I have a suggested improvement to add to the printed thread. You video go me to the goal of figuring out the filets/offsets for my machine but even with the perfect fit initially getting the threads mated is problematic. I solved for this by adding a taper to the end of the threaded bolt end to trim away that initial thread. I do this by extruding a cylinder matching the bolt diameter and length and coinciding with the finished bolt. After I have that cylinder in place, I chamfer the end, on a m16 x 2.0 bolt, the chamfer is 1.5 horizontal and 2.0mm vertical. Next I do a Combine and select the intersect option. That effectively trims away that real sharp initial thread and now fitting it to a nut is easy. Without this fix I think many will continue to offset the threads to get easy insertion but maybe end up with a little wiggle in the fit. Again, thank you so much for your very well produce videos... you clearly have a gift for instructing. I'll be watching and learning.
Thanks for this video, it is very timely for me. I have a project where I am printing working 3D threads and was looking to start experimenting with thread tollerances. Your video is perfect for me. Up until now I have been printing my prototype theads with a thicker wall and running metal tap and dies down them to size them correctly, This of course takes time although it does work well. It will be much more efficient to print them at the correct size from the start.
Glad to hear that, Charles! I do find that using Tap and Die sets work well in certain scenarios. For example, when one of the parts is not 3D printed I find it to be really helpful. But when both parts are 3D printed I've found this method does same quite a bit of time. Cheers, Kevin :)
This is a great video, wish i seen it a long time ago. Tip. If wanting to print fine threads then setup your printer to either a 0.2 or 0.1 Nozzle and Use PLA+ works well down to M6
Nice video. I found another way to create the required clearance is to use the scale command on the bolt (after the thread is added) in the 2 dimensions of the thread in your case X and Y by whatever value works, say 0.99 - don't scale in Z as that will effect the pitch. This has the advantage of maintaining the original thread profile - if the diameter is not ridiculously small - and doesn't require subsequent filleting but more importantly increases the flank to flank distance as well as reducing the two diameters. It is the flanks that rub against each other if clearance is not taken care of one way or another.
I've referred to a few of your videos now. They're really well made and crucially, your pace is spot on for me personally. I've been using Fusion for a while now and other CAD packages for a while longer but I always learn something new, even if it's just a keyboard shortcut (I love a keyboard shortcut).
Another great video Kevin. I found that it works out a little better if you split the tolerance addition between the nut and the bolt threads equally. I also found it useful to add a chamfer to both nut and bolt before adding the thread as it eases printing and threading them together when finished.
@@ProductDesignOnline Really appreciate the extra effort to develop top-notch tutorials - thank you however had trouble successfully repeating the 0.15 m fillet added to the inside of the nut thread. Would get an error and a red highlighted line-segment as the thread intersected the nut face (either top/bottom). Considered maybe someone posted a comment on TH-cam and then read's Ted recommendation. As it turns out adding a chamfer prior to threading the nut solved the fillet error issue I was having. Thanks folks!
Kevin, again an excellent video. I just started with 3D printing and Fusion 360, and your videos helped me enormously getting familiar with Fusion 360. Thank you very much!
TIMESTAMPS 0:48 | Creating a new component 1:03 | Creating a cylinder 1:45 | Activating the thread command 2:36 | Making the thread modeled 3:00 | Adjusting the thread length 3:33 | Selecting the thread type 4:27 | Setting the Designation 5:36 | Defining the class (tolerances) 6:05 | Selecting the direction 6:20 | Remembering most recent threads 6:44 | Creating a nut 7:33 | Adding the internal threads 8:27 | The default clearance 8:47 | Copying and pasting the component 10:00 | Offset faces to create clearance 11:37 | Debossing text to label the clearance 12:05 | Creating the third copy 13:54 | Adding fillets to the thread edges 16:15 | 3D Printed test results
AWESOME - Just starting 3D printing and slowly learning Fusion 360 - You did a great job of teaching me how to create the threads for my small project - Good Job!
Found these videos by accident and they are so informative. I am working through them one by and learning so much. I always thought Fusion 360 was hard but now it seems easy to create models. Thanks
Great explanation. I.m learning Fusion 360 and this is the only video I found that gives me a solution for making threads on my Ender 3. Finally I have a bolt and nut that works. Thank you 👍
My latest challenge was to make a garden hose thread for a special nozzle to be printed on Ender 3 v2. Fusion does not offer this thread, but Machinery's Handbook had the specs. Basically, the thread profile is the same as UNC. There is a UNC 1.06 - 12 thread (1 1/16) which I used. However, what I really needed was a 1.06 -11.5 . I then scaled the z axis only to 12/11.5 which stretches the thread to the proper TPI of 11.5. It worked well except the thread did not fit all hoses because of tolerance so I created clearance by scaling x&y by 1.03. In fact , this does alter the thread profile slightly but not enough to notice. Thanks for the videos
I wish you would have made this one earlier :). I created a lamp in two pieces that screw together and I had to do all of this thru trial and error. Your video would have made that a lot easier. Thanks for these great videos.
Thanks for the idea to fillet the threads to make them more robust. I also chamfer the bolt and nut openings a bit before applying the threads. It makes it easier to align the parts and begin the connection.
This has been a great help for me. I always struggled with bolds and nuts, they just never seem to work. Now i know why lol. Thank you for this tutorial, very helpful.
Thanks. Regarding samples- I always put a full length axial hole in samples and then keep them on a sample ring made of ball chain. The sample's movement can be checked without removing them from the ring this way.
This is a great video for the project I'm working on~! I'm trying to make a 4" threaded flange as a dust collection port for the cabinet of my disc/belt sander combo. I've searched for a 3D printed example, but found nothing, so I'm giving it a go. This video should work great in supporting my attempt at a threaded adapter. Very clear & concise instruction for a pretty intricate operation. Not sure that I'd ever by able to do this in SketchUp. Thanks much~!!
I'm not sure why, but I found that using the "Q" shortcut option (14.25) would not successfully perform the Offset Face command. When I selected Offset Face from the Modify dropdown in the Solid menu, it worked fine.
I just spent the last 2 hours following step by step through this video 100 times.. I was about to throw my monitor through the window. WTF? Can anyone explain this? When I selected that face and pressed Q, the distance is pre-populated with 16.00mm. And while you can change it by entering something different or by dragging the handle, it doesn't change the face. But as Bruce kindly noted if you choose "Offset Face" from the modify drop-down, the distance is populated with 0.00mm and you can then change it. I also noticed the dialog for the "Q" version of "OFFSET FACE" has an "Offset Type" input field, while the dialog for the modify menu drop-down version of "OFFSET FACE" does not. This is the kind of stuff that is maddening about Fusion 360. So much is contextual but it's documented NO WHERE. Lastly if you use the "Q" version, if you set the "Offset Type" to "New Offset" it does seem to work.
@@doc_d4566 Same thing. Almost down one MacBook. As you mention, going from the main menu or changing to "New Offset" makes it work. Glad I read the comments. Thanks!
Hi Kevin - I followed this tutorial and was able to create a threaded shaft and nut with M30 x 3.5 mm threads and printed them out. They worked very well on the first try! The reason I chose this thread size is an assembly I have has a 30mm shaft. When I tried to cut the threads into this assembly, the threads on the nut would not mesh with those on the shaft when viewed in the section analysis! I printed my component fully knowing that the threads won't mesh. And sure enough, they didn't. I'm flummoxed as to why I'm having this issue! The only two differences between my scene and this tutorial are one, the shaft in my assembly has been created by extruding a center-circle whilst in the video, a cylinder is used to create the shaft. And second, the nut in my assembly is a body within the same component whilst in the video it's a separate component. To confirm, I created a new component within my assembly and repeated the process outlined in this video and the threads in the shaft and nut meshed! Can you please let me know why this might be happening? thanks for such an excellent video! Agreeing with another viewers comment, I don't understand why someone would down thumb such excellent tutorials.
Did you ever figure this out? I'm having a similar issue where the thread on the nut doesn't align with the thread of the bolt. Is my only option really to rotate one of the components? :(
I revisited the steps in the construction of the threaded subassembly and it's been a while. Therefore, to the best of my recollection and the steps followed, I have the same thread on a shaft that is divided by a collar. One side of the shaft is longer than the other. In my first effort, I modified the shaft to have the collar . And then I added the threads separately on each of the shafts separately. This obviously failed! In the second approach, I removed the collar, added the thread on the entire shaft first. I added the threads on the nut last. This approach fixed the problem.
I really appreciate your videos. You're video on a beginner project, just n making a stamp, equipped me with the knowledge I needed to make a rough design of a roller skate wheel, and this threading video is going to help me finish designing the mold template.
Glad to hear that, Erika! Would love to see some of your projects if you're open to sharing them in the free PDO Community space - community.productdesignonline.com/
Thanks to Kevin and a practical report to this tutorial: On my Prusa MK3S printed threads fits together perfectly if you reduce and round ONLY the external thread by 0.1 mm. If you reduce the external AND the internal thread, the connection becomes too loose.
First of all, thank you very muchfor this useful and instructive content. Even though I couldn't get the exact result I wanted in my first print, I got the result I wanted by changing the offset settings. Then I made a sketch for the M8 and printed it and the result is still excellent. I had downloaded Fusion 360 before, but I had never used it. Thanks to this content, I both made an introduction to the use of Fusion 360 and learned to draw the part I wanted. Thanks again.
I've had a lot of experience recently with printing threaded holes in plastic parts for use with standard metal fasteners in my combat robots. Personally I find it easy enough to secure a long enough machine screw in a printed hole with modeled threads even down to 8-32 (roughly M4 diam) threads printed on a Prusa Mk3S in Nylon. I was able to get this to work with the threads oriented both vertically and horizontally and even at arbitrary angles so long as the screw doesn't need to be removed and screwed in over and over, with no manually added clearance at all (though selecting a looser tolerance class helps). I also tried this with 6-32 screws but under load the screws pulled out too easily. I'm going to look into self-tapping screws in 3D printed non-threaded pilot holes next and see how they compare. I also tried threaded inserts but found that my parts would literally split in half along layer lines before the point where the threads stripped out and this remained true when threading directly into the plastic with 8-32 screws. I've also had this work with PETG and PLA though both of those have pitiful impact strength compared to Nylon which is my primary concern. Also when printing smaller threads you definitely wanna set your vertical resolution no greater than 0.2mm, and I often use 0.15mm.
Great stuff, Team Just 'Cuz Robotics! Thanks for sharing all of this. I've printed lots of things in Nylon, but haven't done much in the realm of screws. I'll have to give that a go. I've also experimented with threaded inserts. They work well but can be a pain to get them to work on many accounts within the same object. I may make a video on that topic for the series. Thanks again!! Cheers, Kevin :)
Super helpful video, thank you. I used this to successfully make a plastic female 1/4-20 camera mount for a metal tripod mount. The plastic needed thick walls to hold it in place. I think it may help to try screwing the metal bolt in right after printing while the plastic is still warm and pliable.
❤ this is one of your most useful tutorials .. I have used the screw and internal threads several times to avoid Gluing parts together . Not sure how to share a picture of my project but it may help others see how to use this in theirs Kind regards Dave Outlaw
Was making some custom filters for my paint respirator and your video enabled me to get the threaded caps to work on the first try! Would've had to experiment to get a proper fit otherwise, I'm sure. Thanks.
Outstanding video and I will get a lot of use of this, especially for the 3D printed thread on a writing pen design I am working on. I really appreciate your quality, concise instruction and the application in using a 3D printer.
I would be very interested in learning how to create things like snap-ins and similar techniques for reducing number of screws required for assembling printed components.
Oh my gosh it is sooooo much better, recently made a mount for my heat gun with snap in parts. Holds very well and was much much easier overall to create with snap ins.
Perfect! Little tip: buy yourself a Spacemouse! Perfect for demonstration as the al the movements are much smoother! I’ll make a donation to help you out.
Hi, EEtransmit. I actually have one and use one in my regular work. I originally didn't use it for the tutorials because too many people where commenting on how I was moving smoothly and how I didn't show them what i was doing, etc instead of the content of the tutorial... :') Maybe I'll start using it in the tutorials. Cheers, Kevin :)
@@ProductDesignOnline can you make a tutorial on how to actually use one / show how its used and its benefits? i'm planning to buy an inexpensive one, but i have no idea what it benefits me and so on
Thank you! Again! I was really stuck trying to figure out clearances on my first 3D printed threads and yet again, you've given me the info I needed to get it done.
tip: if printing a bolt it might be a good idea to remove the threading from the fastener where they will not be engaged to save on print time and increase the effective strength of the part by effectively turning it into a threaded pin.
I would like to see how to design organic 3D printed models. We do a lot of functional prints, but I think something like organic, maybe even sculpted would be fun tutorial.
@@G0ldbl4e Good idea IMO. Every tool has its perks depending on what we're aiming for, and Blender is better at that than parametric software. I'm sure it can be done, as well as it is possible to do some parametric stuff in Blender (with add-ons), but the best way is probably Blender for organic stuff and Fusion 360 for precision parametric design.
One 3D printing workflow I struggle with sometimes, is trying to build support structures into a complex Fusion 360 part design. Generally, I can manipulate a model in a slicer and leverage the use of supports (typically tree supports), especially now that the more popular slicers (Cura 5.3.0, Prusa 2.6.0-alpha) support paint-on supports or custom tree supports. I would like to figure out a way to include in the F360 design ways to add break-away supports that I can't generate with the slicers.
Hi Kevin, this viedeo is a pleasure full of realistic solutions. I've been searching some forums for a solution. No user could accomplish this. With this I will now "peddle" :-). Thank you very much.
when making circular fittings i always try to use the revolve function on a sketch of its cross section. in this way you can quickly create pretty complicated fittings.
Finally! Thanks Kevin, really useful as always, I hadn't thought about the effect of using fillets so I guess its time to revisit the m6 thumbscrews I printed for my RasPi vesa mounts (KODI Rules!)... I'd give this another thumbs up if I could!
well, I'm creating rings (jewlery) and it's hard for me to make intricate designs (like an animal ring, or one with a tree like mesh). If you could show how you make an intricate ring, it would help a lot. Love your content btw
Excellent tute, except for the 'ANTI-Clockwise' comment :) Not even sure how you learned that phrase but it is traditionally COUNTER clockwise. Interestingly, you CAN interpret 'anti' to mean 'the opposite' which fits perfectly for your explanation. You taught me Two things today!
Thank you. Had this problem today trying to make a simple holder for a variable beam splitter. Just a simple spindle and locking nut. I have an SLA printer as well but this was still a problem. I never had any problems with the FDM but I think Autodesk made some changes to the tolerances in one of the updates. Anyway, really useful. Thank you
I can't wait to get home and try this. But I have issues following your steps for some reason I don't always see the same options. I'm going to think about what a good project would be. You're awesome. I try I can't waite to get better with this program
Thanks for the great tutorial. I got stuck when I want to offset the face of the thread wtih the fillet. I cant offset it by -.1mm, I get a warning that the cylinder has a problem with that... Do you have an idea what Im doing wrong?
I had the same problem..when doing the offset, change the "offset type" from "automatic" to "new offset" and then type the distance of -0.1mm. Worked for me
Great point, code DirtyToMe! I should've mentioned that this was focused on FDM printing. It is crazy the amount of fine detail one can achieve with resin printers. I used to run some FormLap printers for a lab, and they were great at small threads and other objects that are hard or near impossible with FDM. What resin printer do you have?
wow, this is a really good tutorial. i have been following along with your Learn Fusion 360 in 30 Days. Still have a long way to go. i have one challenge. say i created a shape or model i need to print but decided to create a negative model so that i can use as a mould for other materials. do you happen to have tutorial for that? do i need to create from scratch or the software can automatically create it? and once created, is it possible to break the model (mould) into sections? looking forward to hear from you soon and keep up with the excellent tutorial videos, cheers!
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Who is downvoting these videos? Some bot maybe? Thanks for making these. I enjoy watching them and learning new things.
Thanks, Mike! As always, I truly appreciate your support and kind words :)
I saw another video (+10K view omg) where the uploader don't mention anything about the tolerance... maybe that guy :-)
This video is perfect!
I instantly upvote when I hear this guys voice on a F360 tutorial.
@@Ken-zg3ze Yeah!
They should hit the dislike button twice. That'll work out better for them.
Kevin. I find your teaching style to be VERY EXCELLENT. As a new Fusion360 student and new to 3D designs, your explanations are very helpful. You are slow, articulate and demonstrate where to find the button clicks and methods clearly. I find just learning the steps and sequences difficult. I have problems learning how to undo mistakes...I think I get the timeline method to go back. I often have to hunt around to find what is needed next, but to be honest, watching your tutorials repeatedly helps to reinforce my own understanding of what, why and how. Thanks for producing a great series of shows.
This tutorial worked great but I can't believe I printed completely functional M2.6X0.45 threads on an Ender 3 V2 with 0.4 nozzle. Even the entry level machines are becoming so amazing!! Thanks to your tutorial I even got it on the first try!
I'd consider myself to already be quite familiar with fusion. I still found your video tremendously helpful. I pulled this video up just to see if there even was a dedicated thread tool and I was pleasantly surprised to be greeted with a clear and descriptive tutorial. The advice you gave and the explanation for altering the tolerances will definitely save me some time. I also appreciate that you don't skip over anything. I've never seen the option you used to view a cross section and I'm glad I'm aware of it now. If I'm looking for more fusion tutorials, I will definitely come here. Thank you for such high quality content.
Okay, There are few things more frustrating that trying to learn all the co-dependencies and intricacies of Fusion 360. Forget to check a box or choose an option and it is off to bang your head against the wall as hard as you can just so the pain stops when you quit banging your head against a wall.
Your video is better than on-spot. I have viewed a nauseating amount of videos to create a working nut and bolt. By far, this video is more comprehensive than all I have viewed. Thank you for taking the time to explain the various tools to create threaded nut and threaded bolt . Then you go further to explain how to modify the threads surfaces to make a perfect fit. Fantastic video. Keep them coming.
This channel has the best content in the universe to learn Fusion 360
Thanks, Jason. Happy learning 😁
I never really sat down and watched any videos on fusion 360 and rather fiddled on my own, but I learned a lot from this video. Thanks a bunch, I'm making a large thread for mounting a chuck on.
I've watched a few of your tutorials now and have picked up a number of things. You do a great job of illustrating a projects steps and capture a lot of the interface subtleties that I've struggled with as a novice.
I have a suggested improvement to add to the printed thread. You video go me to the goal of figuring out the filets/offsets for my machine but even with the perfect fit initially getting the threads mated is problematic. I solved for this by adding a taper to the end of the threaded bolt end to trim away that initial thread. I do this by extruding a cylinder matching the bolt diameter and length and coinciding with the finished bolt. After I have that cylinder in place, I chamfer the end, on a m16 x 2.0 bolt, the chamfer is 1.5 horizontal and 2.0mm vertical. Next I do a Combine and select the intersect option. That effectively trims away that real sharp initial thread and now fitting it to a nut is easy. Without this fix I think many will continue to offset the threads to get easy insertion but maybe end up with a little wiggle in the fit.
Again, thank you so much for your very well produce videos... you clearly have a gift for instructing. I'll be watching and learning.
Thanks for this video, it is very timely for me.
I have a project where I am printing working 3D threads and was looking to start experimenting with thread tollerances.
Your video is perfect for me.
Up until now I have been printing my prototype theads with a thicker wall and running metal tap and dies down them to size them correctly,
This of course takes time although it does work well. It will be much more efficient to print them at the correct size from the start.
Glad to hear that, Charles! I do find that using Tap and Die sets work well in certain scenarios. For example, when one of the parts is not 3D printed I find it to be really helpful. But when both parts are 3D printed I've found this method does same quite a bit of time.
Cheers, Kevin :)
This is a great video, wish i seen it a long time ago.
Tip. If wanting to print fine threads then setup your printer to either a 0.2 or 0.1 Nozzle and Use PLA+ works well down to M6
Nice video.
I found another way to create the required clearance is to use the scale command on the bolt (after the thread is added) in the 2 dimensions of the thread in your case X and Y by whatever value works, say 0.99 - don't scale in Z as that will effect the pitch. This has the advantage of maintaining the original thread profile - if the diameter is not ridiculously small - and doesn't require subsequent filleting but more importantly increases the flank to flank distance as well as reducing the two diameters. It is the flanks that rub against each other if clearance is not taken care of one way or another.
Great tips! Thanks for sharing, John :)
I've referred to a few of your videos now. They're really well made and crucially, your pace is spot on for me personally. I've been using Fusion for a while now and other CAD packages for a while longer but I always learn something new, even if it's just a keyboard shortcut (I love a keyboard shortcut).
I often struggle with threads, and now that i come to see your offset solution.. it seems so obvious..
Thanks, much appreciated.
Another great video Kevin.
I found that it works out a little better if you split the tolerance addition between the nut and the bolt threads equally.
I also found it useful to add a chamfer to both nut and bolt before adding the thread as it eases printing and threading them together when finished.
Amazing...great tips, Ted! Glad you shared these :)
@@ProductDesignOnline Really appreciate the extra effort to develop top-notch tutorials - thank you however had trouble successfully repeating the 0.15 m fillet added to the inside of the nut thread. Would get an error and a red highlighted line-segment as the thread intersected the nut face (either top/bottom). Considered maybe someone posted a comment on TH-cam and then read's Ted recommendation. As it turns out adding a chamfer prior to threading the nut solved the fillet error issue I was having. Thanks folks!
This guy has balls for asking people to dislike, other people need to learn from this.
Kevin, again an excellent video. I just started with 3D printing and Fusion 360, and your videos helped me enormously getting familiar with Fusion 360. Thank you very much!
TIMESTAMPS
0:48 | Creating a new component
1:03 | Creating a cylinder
1:45 | Activating the thread command
2:36 | Making the thread modeled
3:00 | Adjusting the thread length
3:33 | Selecting the thread type
4:27 | Setting the Designation
5:36 | Defining the class (tolerances)
6:05 | Selecting the direction
6:20 | Remembering most recent threads
6:44 | Creating a nut
7:33 | Adding the internal threads
8:27 | The default clearance
8:47 | Copying and pasting the component
10:00 | Offset faces to create clearance
11:37 | Debossing text to label the clearance
12:05 | Creating the third copy
13:54 | Adding fillets to the thread edges
16:15 | 3D Printed test results
AWESOME - Just starting 3D printing and slowly learning Fusion 360 - You did a great job of teaching me how to create the threads for my small project - Good Job!
Glad it was helpful!
Found these videos by accident and they are so informative. I am working through them one by and learning so much. I always thought Fusion 360 was hard but now it seems easy to create models. Thanks
Great explanation. I.m learning Fusion 360 and this is the only video I found that gives me a solution for making threads on my Ender 3. Finally I have a bolt and nut that works. Thank you 👍
You are the best, I was just thinking, "I hope Kevin Kennedy does a printable thread in Fusion", and "Bam!", yes you do. :)
My latest challenge was to make a garden hose thread for a special nozzle to be printed on Ender 3 v2. Fusion does not offer this thread, but Machinery's Handbook had the specs. Basically, the thread profile is the same as UNC. There is a UNC 1.06 - 12 thread (1 1/16) which I used. However, what I really needed was a 1.06 -11.5 . I then scaled the z axis only to 12/11.5 which stretches the thread to the proper TPI of 11.5. It worked well except the thread did not fit all hoses because of tolerance so I created clearance by scaling x&y by 1.03. In fact , this does alter the thread profile slightly but not enough to notice. Thanks for the videos
I wish you would have made this one earlier :). I created a lamp in two pieces that screw together and I had to do all of this thru trial and error. Your video would have made that a lot easier. Thanks for these great videos.
Thanks, Dan!
I'm a mill guy and I recently started playing w printers, GREAT vid! Thanks!!
My hands were bleeding today from a screw I designed in fusion. Thanks for the video, this makes my life a lot easier
Thanks for the idea to fillet the threads to make them more robust. I also chamfer the bolt and nut openings a bit before applying the threads. It makes it easier to align the parts and begin the connection.
Great tip, Robert!
Excellent video! I needed a refresher and this was extremely thorough.
Thanks! I would love to see videos on snap fittings
This has been a great help for me. I always struggled with bolds and nuts, they just never seem to work. Now i know why lol. Thank you for this tutorial, very helpful.
The Modeled ✅ was my problem. Thanks for the quick to follow guide!
Thanks. Regarding samples- I always put a full length axial hole in samples and then keep them on a sample ring made of ball chain. The sample's movement can be checked without removing them from the ring this way.
This is a great video for the project I'm working on~! I'm trying to make a 4" threaded flange as a dust collection port for the cabinet of my disc/belt sander combo. I've searched for a 3D printed example, but found nothing, so I'm giving it a go. This video should work great in supporting my attempt at a threaded adapter. Very clear & concise instruction for a pretty intricate operation. Not sure that I'd ever by able to do this in SketchUp. Thanks much~!!
I'm not sure why, but I found that using the "Q" shortcut option (14.25) would not successfully perform the Offset Face command. When I selected Offset Face from the Modify dropdown in the Solid menu, it worked fine.
I just spent the last 2 hours following step by step through this video 100 times.. I was about to throw my monitor through the window. WTF? Can anyone explain this? When I selected that face and pressed Q, the distance is pre-populated with 16.00mm. And while you can change it by entering something different or by dragging the handle, it doesn't change the face. But as Bruce kindly noted if you choose "Offset Face" from the modify drop-down, the distance is populated with 0.00mm and you can then change it. I also noticed the dialog for the "Q" version of "OFFSET FACE" has an "Offset Type" input field, while the dialog for the modify menu drop-down version of "OFFSET FACE" does not. This is the kind of stuff that is maddening about Fusion 360. So much is contextual but it's documented NO WHERE.
Lastly if you use the "Q" version, if you set the "Offset Type" to "New Offset" it does seem to work.
@@doc_d4566 Same thing. Almost down one MacBook. As you mention, going from the main menu or changing to "New Offset" makes it work. Glad I read the comments. Thanks!
@@doc_d4566 thanks!
OH MY GOD! One year later and you are still saving people. I was stuck on this for two hours... You legend!!! Thank you so much.
Hi Kevin - I followed this tutorial and was able to create a threaded shaft and nut with M30 x 3.5 mm threads and printed them out. They worked very well on the first try! The reason I chose this thread size is an assembly I have has a 30mm shaft. When I tried to cut the threads into this assembly, the threads on the nut would not mesh with those on the shaft when viewed in the section analysis! I printed my component fully knowing that the threads won't mesh. And sure enough, they didn't.
I'm flummoxed as to why I'm having this issue! The only two differences between my scene and this tutorial are one, the shaft in my assembly has been created by extruding a center-circle whilst in the video, a cylinder is used to create the shaft. And second, the nut in my assembly is a body within the same component whilst in the video it's a separate component. To confirm, I created a new component within my assembly and repeated the process outlined in this video and the threads in the shaft and nut meshed!
Can you please let me know why this might be happening?
thanks for such an excellent video! Agreeing with another viewers comment, I don't understand why someone would down thumb such excellent tutorials.
Did you ever figure this out? I'm having a similar issue where the thread on the nut doesn't align with the thread of the bolt. Is my only option really to rotate one of the components? :(
@@danbeare5263 I have to look at the design to see how I solved it.. will let you know
I revisited the steps in the construction of the threaded subassembly and it's been a while. Therefore, to the best of my recollection and the steps followed, I have the same thread on a shaft that is divided by a collar. One side of the shaft is longer than the other. In my first effort, I modified the shaft to have the collar . And then I added the threads separately on each of the shafts separately. This obviously failed!
In the second approach, I removed the collar, added the thread on the entire shaft first. I added the threads on the nut last. This approach fixed the problem.
I'm new to 3d modeling. This video helped me to bring idea to life. Thanks a lot.
I really appreciate your videos. You're video on a beginner project, just n making a stamp, equipped me with the knowledge I needed to make a rough design of a roller skate wheel, and this threading video is going to help me finish designing the mold template.
Glad to hear that, Erika! Would love to see some of your projects if you're open to sharing them in the free PDO Community space - community.productdesignonline.com/
Keep coming back to this video, amazing tutorial and well constructed! Well done mate
Thanks for your support!
Thanks to Kevin and a practical report to this tutorial: On my Prusa MK3S printed threads fits together perfectly if you reduce and round ONLY the external thread by 0.1 mm. If you reduce the external AND the internal thread, the connection becomes too loose.
Sweet - Thanks for sharing your results, Ralle! There are lots with the Prusa printer...so I'm sure this will be useful to others :)
First of all, thank you very muchfor this useful and instructive content. Even though I couldn't get the exact result I wanted in my first print, I got the result I wanted by changing the offset settings. Then I made a sketch for the M8 and printed it and the result is still excellent. I had downloaded Fusion 360 before, but I had never used it. Thanks to this content, I both made an introduction to the use of Fusion 360 and learned to draw the part I wanted. Thanks again.
Thanks as always Kevin! Would love to see your take on cam style clamps, they have a multitude of uses from securing lids to making clips for bags.
Thank you so much! The solution to increase the thread gap is so simple but I didn't get to it on my own.
Great video. You are helping me a lot. I didn't get if you made the 0.1mm offset in each face of the screw, or in the screw and in the nuts.
Thank you Kevin for this tutorial..my attempt to print threads ended up like first example. So this will helps me a lot👍
Thanks, Ivan! Glad to hear you'll make use of this :)
Thank you for leaving these posted. They are easy to follow. Thank you!
I've had a lot of experience recently with printing threaded holes in plastic parts for use with standard metal fasteners in my combat robots. Personally I find it easy enough to secure a long enough machine screw in a printed hole with modeled threads even down to 8-32 (roughly M4 diam) threads printed on a Prusa Mk3S in Nylon. I was able to get this to work with the threads oriented both vertically and horizontally and even at arbitrary angles so long as the screw doesn't need to be removed and screwed in over and over, with no manually added clearance at all (though selecting a looser tolerance class helps). I also tried this with 6-32 screws but under load the screws pulled out too easily. I'm going to look into self-tapping screws in 3D printed non-threaded pilot holes next and see how they compare. I also tried threaded inserts but found that my parts would literally split in half along layer lines before the point where the threads stripped out and this remained true when threading directly into the plastic with 8-32 screws. I've also had this work with PETG and PLA though both of those have pitiful impact strength compared to Nylon which is my primary concern. Also when printing smaller threads you definitely wanna set your vertical resolution no greater than 0.2mm, and I often use 0.15mm.
Great stuff, Team Just 'Cuz Robotics! Thanks for sharing all of this. I've printed lots of things in Nylon, but haven't done much in the realm of screws. I'll have to give that a go.
I've also experimented with threaded inserts. They work well but can be a pain to get them to work on many accounts within the same object. I may make a video on that topic for the series.
Thanks again!! Cheers, Kevin :)
Super helpful video, thank you. I used this to successfully make a plastic female 1/4-20 camera mount for a metal tripod mount. The plastic needed thick walls to hold it in place. I think it may help to try screwing the metal bolt in right after printing while the plastic is still warm and pliable.
Maybe this helps someone:
At 14:27 I couldn't get this offset operation to work, until I changed Offset Type from "Automatic" to "New Offset".
Thank you, I had this exact same problem.
Thank you so much, I spent an hour trying to figure out why it was not working
❤ this is one of your most useful tutorials .. I have used the screw and internal threads several times to avoid Gluing parts together . Not sure how to share a picture of my project but it may help others see how to use this in theirs
Kind regards
Dave Outlaw
Thank you. Your videos have been invaluable to this disabled inventor.🛠️♥️
This video was a ton of help. I was previously just trying to scale the female component up in size.
Huge help. I already printed an embarrassing number of screws and threads trying to figure this out alone.
Was making some custom filters for my paint respirator and your video enabled me to get the threaded caps to work on the first try! Would've had to experiment to get a proper fit otherwise, I'm sure. Thanks.
Glad to hear that, Maximilian! Cheers :)
TIP: for people looking for the "paste new", it is not on a body but on a component level! This tip may safe you 15 minutes of your (design) life :p
Great tip, sledgeHammerRulez! :)
Outstanding video and I will get a lot of use of this, especially for the 3D printed thread on a writing pen design I am working on. I really appreciate your quality, concise instruction and the application in using a 3D printer.
I would be very interested in learning how to create things like snap-ins and similar techniques for reducing number of screws required for assembling printed components.
Oh my gosh it is sooooo much better, recently made a mount for my heat gun with snap in parts. Holds very well and was much much easier overall to create with snap ins.
Great resource! I've been beating my head against the wall with threads all weekend and one video answered all my questions! Subscribing! Thanks.
Just found this and its perfect, no nonsense and exactly what I need. Thanks.
Perfect! Little tip: buy yourself a Spacemouse! Perfect for demonstration as the al the movements are much smoother!
I’ll make a donation to help you out.
Hi, EEtransmit. I actually have one and use one in my regular work. I originally didn't use it for the tutorials because too many people where commenting on how I was moving smoothly and how I didn't show them what i was doing, etc instead of the content of the tutorial... :')
Maybe I'll start using it in the tutorials. Cheers, Kevin :)
@@ProductDesignOnline can you make a tutorial on how to actually use one / show how its used and its benefits? i'm planning to buy an inexpensive one, but i have no idea what it benefits me and so on
Thank you! Again! I was really stuck trying to figure out clearances on my first 3D printed threads and yet again, you've given me the info I needed to get it done.
Excellent video. I’m a newb at fusion 360 you’re a very good instructor. Thanks 😊
tip: if printing a bolt it might be a good idea to remove the threading from the fastener where they will not be engaged to save on print time and increase the effective strength of the part by effectively turning it into a threaded pin.
Wow, learned so much from this video! I used to think I was pretty good with Fusion360, look forward to seeing more of your videos!
Thanks, Michael! Glad to hear you're learning a lot. Cheers! :)
I knew I didnt have a calibration issue. Thank you so much for this information
Awesome video and spot for solving my issues! All my thumbs up!
🤗
Printed an working m6 nut and bolt using this tutorial thanks! I am still amazed what you can do with a 3d printer
Nice work! :)
Thanks Kevin... this is the best tutorial. You are a good teacher.
As always EXCELLENT, the best tutorials with the best quality
Excellent video, very well explained. Learned alot. Thank you much!
Very well presented; it helped me fix a nagging problem. Thanks a bunch!
10:40 Adding the clearance to the nut would be a better choice as the male thread is weakened and gets sharp corners as you can see.
Did you watch the whole video? He literally goes over that and mentions his he was going to go over that at the beginning of the video
I would like to see how to design organic 3D printed models. We do a lot of functional prints, but I think something like organic, maybe even sculpted would be fun tutorial.
I would suggest looking up some Blender modelling tutorials for something like that
@@G0ldbl4e Good idea IMO. Every tool has its perks depending on what we're aiming for, and Blender is better at that than parametric software. I'm sure it can be done, as well as it is possible to do some parametric stuff in Blender (with add-ons), but the best way is probably Blender for organic stuff and Fusion 360 for precision parametric design.
One 3D printing workflow I struggle with sometimes, is trying to build support structures into a complex Fusion 360 part design. Generally, I can manipulate a model in a slicer and leverage the use of supports (typically tree supports), especially now that the more popular slicers (Cura 5.3.0, Prusa 2.6.0-alpha) support paint-on supports or custom tree supports.
I would like to figure out a way to include in the F360 design ways to add break-away supports that I can't generate with the slicers.
Wow, I learned so much about Fusion from this video! Including what I was looking for! Very well-made video, thanks a bunch. Earned my sub!
Thanks for watching :)
Hi Kevin, this viedeo is a pleasure full of realistic solutions. I've been searching some forums for a solution. No user could accomplish this. With this I will now "peddle" :-). Thank you very much.
This was great! Exactly what I was looking for - plus good tutorial on basic Fusion functions. Thanks!
when making circular fittings i always try to use the revolve function on a sketch of its cross section. in this way you can quickly create pretty complicated fittings.
Top notch explaining the modeled option
I have been searching so long for this information! Great video!
Another amazing video. I get better everyday watching these!
Thank you for this. Learning about the offsets and fillets for the threads was great as I'm designing a 38mm Motor Retainer for a model rocket!
Fantastic channel, great quality, on all levels. Crazy how your channel only has just under 100k subs.
Finally! Thanks Kevin, really useful as always, I hadn't thought about the effect of using fillets so I guess its time to revisit the m6 thumbscrews I printed for my RasPi vesa mounts (KODI Rules!)...
I'd give this another thumbs up if I could!
Thanks, Andy! :)
wow, thanks alot. super well detailed and no time wasting either
well, I'm creating rings (jewlery) and it's hard for me to make intricate designs (like an animal ring, or one with a tree like mesh). If you could show how you make an intricate ring, it would help a lot. Love your content btw
Thanks for the tutorial, it was helpful in the project I was working on.
I'd love to know how to design aerodynamic models. As usual, amazing video!
Excellent tute, except for the 'ANTI-Clockwise' comment :) Not even sure how you learned that phrase but it is traditionally COUNTER clockwise. Interestingly, you CAN interpret 'anti' to mean 'the opposite' which fits perfectly for your explanation. You taught me Two things today!
Everyone in Britain says anti-clockwise.
Wonderful series.....Please video on plastic joint
Thank you. Had this problem today trying to make a simple holder for a variable beam splitter. Just a simple spindle and locking nut. I have an SLA printer as well but this was still a problem. I never had any problems with the FDM but I think Autodesk made some changes to the tolerances in one of the updates. Anyway, really useful. Thank you
I can't wait to get home and try this. But I have issues following your steps for some reason I don't always see the same options. I'm going to think about what a good project would be. You're awesome. I try I can't waite to get better with this program
What options are you not seeing? I'm on the latest version of the Personal Use license (2.0.7046 Active Plan: Fusion 360, Personal)
Cheers, Kevin :)
Indeed great solution! I did also an offset from outside and inside diameter face.
Thanks for the great tutorial.
I got stuck when I want to offset the face of the thread wtih the fillet. I cant offset it by -.1mm, I get a warning that the cylinder has a problem with that... Do you have an idea what Im doing wrong?
I had the same problem..when doing the offset, change the "offset type" from "automatic" to "new offset" and then type the distance of -0.1mm. Worked for me
Well done. Great delivery and very easy to follow. Thanks!
Thanks for making and posting! Offsetting bolts to fit the holes was driving me insane :)
You're welcome. Best of luck with your projects :)
I recently printed M2x0.4 on my resin printer. I had to put it under the microscope to see the threads clearly. The resolution is incredible.
Great point, code DirtyToMe! I should've mentioned that this was focused on FDM printing. It is crazy the amount of fine detail one can achieve with resin printers. I used to run some FormLap printers for a lab, and they were great at small threads and other objects that are hard or near impossible with FDM.
What resin printer do you have?
Wonderful video
Please make a video on how to make a gear box for stepper motors.. 🙌
wow, this is a really good tutorial. i have been following along with your Learn Fusion 360 in 30 Days. Still have a long way to go.
i have one challenge. say i created a shape or model i need to print but decided to create a negative model so that i can use as a mould for other materials. do you happen to have tutorial for that? do i need to create from scratch or the software can automatically create it? and once created, is it possible to break the model (mould) into sections?
looking forward to hear from you soon and keep up with the excellent tutorial videos, cheers!
Thank you for explaining this thoroughly!
Thanks Kevin, helped me a ton! Keep up the good work. Thumbs up, subscribed.
What a kick-ass tutorial, thank you so much.