3D Printed Threads - Model Them in Fusion 360 | Practical Prints #2
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 พ.ค. 2024
- Learn how to create 3D Printable threads in Fusion 360. I’ll show you how to add clearances based on your 3D Printer’s tolerance. I’ll also discuss a tip that will make your plastic threads even stronger.
This is episode #2 of Practical Prints, a TH-cam series where Kevin Kennedy demos all things related to designing for 3D printing in Fusion 360.
TIMESTAMPS
0:00 - 3D Printed Threads
0:48 - Creating a new component
1:03 - Creating a cylinder
1:45 - Activating the thread command
2:36 - Making the thread modeled
3:00 - Adjusting the thread length
3:33 - Selecting the thread type
4:27 - Setting the Designation
5:36 - Defining the class (tolerances)
6:05 - Selecting the direction
6:20 - Remembering most recent threads
6:44 - Creating a nut
7:33 - Adding the internal threads
8:27 - The default clearance
8:47 - Copying and pasting the component
10:00 - Offset faces to create clearance
11:37 - Debossing text to label the clearance
12:05 - Creating the third copy
13:54 - Adding fillets to the thread edges
16:15 - 3D Printed test results
TUTORIAL RESOURCES
1. This tutorial's resource page ➞ ProductDesignOnline.com/p2
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3. Join us on Patreon ➞ / productdesignonline
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QUESTION
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Who is downvoting these videos? Some bot maybe? Thanks for making these. I enjoy watching them and learning new things.
Thanks, Mike! As always, I truly appreciate your support and kind words :)
I saw another video (+10K view omg) where the uploader don't mention anything about the tolerance... maybe that guy :-)
This video is perfect!
I instantly upvote when I hear this guys voice on a F360 tutorial.
@@Ken-zg3ze Yeah!
They should hit the dislike button twice. That'll work out better for them.
I've referred to a few of your videos now. They're really well made and crucially, your pace is spot on for me personally. I've been using Fusion for a while now and other CAD packages for a while longer but I always learn something new, even if it's just a keyboard shortcut (I love a keyboard shortcut).
Thanks as always Kevin! Would love to see your take on cam style clamps, they have a multitude of uses from securing lids to making clips for bags.
Found these videos by accident and they are so informative. I am working through them one by and learning so much. I always thought Fusion 360 was hard but now it seems easy to create models. Thanks
I never really sat down and watched any videos on fusion 360 and rather fiddled on my own, but I learned a lot from this video. Thanks a bunch, I'm making a large thread for mounting a chuck on.
First of all, thank you very muchfor this useful and instructive content. Even though I couldn't get the exact result I wanted in my first print, I got the result I wanted by changing the offset settings. Then I made a sketch for the M8 and printed it and the result is still excellent. I had downloaded Fusion 360 before, but I had never used it. Thanks to this content, I both made an introduction to the use of Fusion 360 and learned to draw the part I wanted. Thanks again.
Thank you! Again! I was really stuck trying to figure out clearances on my first 3D printed threads and yet again, you've given me the info I needed to get it done.
This was great! Exactly what I was looking for - plus good tutorial on basic Fusion functions. Thanks!
As always EXCELLENT, the best tutorials with the best quality
Thank you for leaving these posted. They are easy to follow. Thank you!
Thank you for this. Learning about the offsets and fillets for the threads was great as I'm designing a 38mm Motor Retainer for a model rocket!
I often struggle with threads, and now that i come to see your offset solution.. it seems so obvious..
Thanks, much appreciated.
You are the best, I was just thinking, "I hope Kevin Kennedy does a printable thread in Fusion", and "Bam!", yes you do. :)
Kevin. I find your teaching style to be VERY EXCELLENT. As a new Fusion360 student and new to 3D designs, your explanations are very helpful. You are slow, articulate and demonstrate where to find the button clicks and methods clearly. I find just learning the steps and sequences difficult. I have problems learning how to undo mistakes...I think I get the timeline method to go back. I often have to hunt around to find what is needed next, but to be honest, watching your tutorials repeatedly helps to reinforce my own understanding of what, why and how. Thanks for producing a great series of shows.
Thank you. Your videos have been invaluable to this disabled inventor.🛠️♥️
Great explanation. I.m learning Fusion 360 and this is the only video I found that gives me a solution for making threads on my Ender 3. Finally I have a bolt and nut that works. Thank you 👍
This video was a ton of help. I was previously just trying to scale the female component up in size.
Just found this and its perfect, no nonsense and exactly what I need. Thanks.
Thank you for explaining this thoroughly!
Thanks! I would love to see videos on snap fittings
Outstanding video and I will get a lot of use of this, especially for the 3D printed thread on a writing pen design I am working on. I really appreciate your quality, concise instruction and the application in using a 3D printer.
Thank you so much! The solution to increase the thread gap is so simple but I didn't get to it on my own.
Well done. Great delivery and very easy to follow. Thanks!
Thanks Kevin... this is the best tutorial. You are a good teacher.
Excellent video! I needed a refresher and this was extremely thorough.
Fantastic channel, great quality, on all levels. Crazy how your channel only has just under 100k subs.
wow, thanks alot. super well detailed and no time wasting either
Great resource! I've been beating my head against the wall with threads all weekend and one video answered all my questions! Subscribing! Thanks.
Top notch explaining the modeled option
This has been a great help for me. I always struggled with bolds and nuts, they just never seem to work. Now i know why lol. Thank you for this tutorial, very helpful.
I'm new to 3d modeling. This video helped me to bring idea to life. Thanks a lot.
Awesome video and spot for solving my issues! All my thumbs up!
🤗
Super helpful video, thank you. I used this to successfully make a plastic female 1/4-20 camera mount for a metal tripod mount. The plastic needed thick walls to hold it in place. I think it may help to try screwing the metal bolt in right after printing while the plastic is still warm and pliable.
Excellent! I love your videos, very helpful and to the point. Thank You.
I have been searching so long for this information! Great video!
This tutorial worked great but I can't believe I printed completely functional M2.6X0.45 threads on an Ender 3 V2 with 0.4 nozzle. Even the entry level machines are becoming so amazing!! Thanks to your tutorial I even got it on the first try!
Your tutorials are great, need to make a g-clamp for my first larger 3d printed mechanical project (a aileron trim wheel with indicator) and this was very helpful.
Hi Kevin, this viedeo is a pleasure full of realistic solutions. I've been searching some forums for a solution. No user could accomplish this. With this I will now "peddle" :-). Thank you very much.
The Modeled ✅ was my problem. Thanks for the quick to follow guide!
Keep coming back to this video, amazing tutorial and well constructed! Well done mate
Thanks for your support!
Very well presented; it helped me fix a nagging problem. Thanks a bunch!
Excellent video. I’m a newb at fusion 360 you’re a very good instructor. Thanks 😊
Great walkthrough as always
Thanks for sharing :-)
This is a great video for the project I'm working on~! I'm trying to make a 4" threaded flange as a dust collection port for the cabinet of my disc/belt sander combo. I've searched for a 3D printed example, but found nothing, so I'm giving it a go. This video should work great in supporting my attempt at a threaded adapter. Very clear & concise instruction for a pretty intricate operation. Not sure that I'd ever by able to do this in SketchUp. Thanks much~!!
Thanks Kevin, helped me a ton! Keep up the good work. Thumbs up, subscribed.
This is a great video, wish i seen it a long time ago.
Tip. If wanting to print fine threads then setup your printer to either a 0.2 or 0.1 Nozzle and Use PLA+ works well down to M6
Another amazing video. I get better everyday watching these!
Thanks so much! This was what I was looking for! I'm going to print some threads now!
This guy has balls for asking people to dislike, other people need to learn from this.
What a kick-ass tutorial, thank you so much.
Thank you. Was trying to figure out the clearance:)
I'm a mill guy and I recently started playing w printers, GREAT vid! Thanks!!
This channel has the best content in the universe to learn Fusion 360
Thanks, Jason. Happy learning 😁
Awesome as always! Thank you so much.
I come back to the video and again and again. Thanks Kevin!
#evergreen
Thanks for the tutorial, it was helpful in the project I was working on.
Clear and concise. Excellent
Excellent video as always, thanks!
Okay, There are few things more frustrating that trying to learn all the co-dependencies and intricacies of Fusion 360. Forget to check a box or choose an option and it is off to bang your head against the wall as hard as you can just so the pain stops when you quit banging your head against a wall.
Your video is better than on-spot. I have viewed a nauseating amount of videos to create a working nut and bolt. By far, this video is more comprehensive than all I have viewed. Thank you for taking the time to explain the various tools to create threaded nut and threaded bolt . Then you go further to explain how to modify the threads surfaces to make a perfect fit. Fantastic video. Keep them coming.
Great tutorials! Thanks for doing this for everyone
Thanks. Regarding samples- I always put a full length axial hole in samples and then keep them on a sample ring made of ball chain. The sample's movement can be checked without removing them from the ring this way.
AWESOME - Just starting 3D printing and slowly learning Fusion 360 - You did a great job of teaching me how to create the threads for my small project - Good Job!
Glad it was helpful!
Fantastic tutorial! Thank you
I really appreciate your videos. You're video on a beginner project, just n making a stamp, equipped me with the knowledge I needed to make a rough design of a roller skate wheel, and this threading video is going to help me finish designing the mold template.
Glad to hear that, Erika! Would love to see some of your projects if you're open to sharing them in the free PDO Community space - community.productdesignonline.com/
when making circular fittings i always try to use the revolve function on a sketch of its cross section. in this way you can quickly create pretty complicated fittings.
Thank you. So cool.
Thanks for the explanation. It helped me a lot.
You fix a problem I didn't know I had. Thank you!!
Huge help. I already printed an embarrassing number of screws and threads trying to figure this out alone.
Very very nice tips !!! Thanks , I’m gonna give it a try in the next 3 mn with my lcd resin printer
Excellen Fusion 360 video! I need this, thanks!
Thanks for this video, it is very timely for me.
I have a project where I am printing working 3D threads and was looking to start experimenting with thread tollerances.
Your video is perfect for me.
Up until now I have been printing my prototype theads with a thicker wall and running metal tap and dies down them to size them correctly,
This of course takes time although it does work well. It will be much more efficient to print them at the correct size from the start.
Glad to hear that, Charles! I do find that using Tap and Die sets work well in certain scenarios. For example, when one of the parts is not 3D printed I find it to be really helpful. But when both parts are 3D printed I've found this method does same quite a bit of time.
Cheers, Kevin :)
Brilliant!!! Love your videos.... So very helpful!
Thank you. Had this problem today trying to make a simple holder for a variable beam splitter. Just a simple spindle and locking nut. I have an SLA printer as well but this was still a problem. I never had any problems with the FDM but I think Autodesk made some changes to the tolerances in one of the updates. Anyway, really useful. Thank you
❤ this is one of your most useful tutorials .. I have used the screw and internal threads several times to avoid Gluing parts together . Not sure how to share a picture of my project but it may help others see how to use this in theirs
Kind regards
Dave Outlaw
Indeed great solution! I did also an offset from outside and inside diameter face.
One 3D printing workflow I struggle with sometimes, is trying to build support structures into a complex Fusion 360 part design. Generally, I can manipulate a model in a slicer and leverage the use of supports (typically tree supports), especially now that the more popular slicers (Cura 5.3.0, Prusa 2.6.0-alpha) support paint-on supports or custom tree supports.
I would like to figure out a way to include in the F360 design ways to add break-away supports that I can't generate with the slicers.
I've watched a few of your tutorials now and have picked up a number of things. You do a great job of illustrating a projects steps and capture a lot of the interface subtleties that I've struggled with as a novice.
I have a suggested improvement to add to the printed thread. You video go me to the goal of figuring out the filets/offsets for my machine but even with the perfect fit initially getting the threads mated is problematic. I solved for this by adding a taper to the end of the threaded bolt end to trim away that initial thread. I do this by extruding a cylinder matching the bolt diameter and length and coinciding with the finished bolt. After I have that cylinder in place, I chamfer the end, on a m16 x 2.0 bolt, the chamfer is 1.5 horizontal and 2.0mm vertical. Next I do a Combine and select the intersect option. That effectively trims away that real sharp initial thread and now fitting it to a nut is easy. Without this fix I think many will continue to offset the threads to get easy insertion but maybe end up with a little wiggle in the fit.
Again, thank you so much for your very well produce videos... you clearly have a gift for instructing. I'll be watching and learning.
Thank you very much. Very very helpful!!!!
Finally! Thanks Kevin, really useful as always, I hadn't thought about the effect of using fillets so I guess its time to revisit the m6 thumbscrews I printed for my RasPi vesa mounts (KODI Rules!)...
I'd give this another thumbs up if I could!
Thanks, Andy! :)
My latest challenge was to make a garden hose thread for a special nozzle to be printed on Ender 3 v2. Fusion does not offer this thread, but Machinery's Handbook had the specs. Basically, the thread profile is the same as UNC. There is a UNC 1.06 - 12 thread (1 1/16) which I used. However, what I really needed was a 1.06 -11.5 . I then scaled the z axis only to 12/11.5 which stretches the thread to the proper TPI of 11.5. It worked well except the thread did not fit all hoses because of tolerance so I created clearance by scaling x&y by 1.03. In fact , this does alter the thread profile slightly but not enough to notice. Thanks for the videos
Wow, learned so much from this video! I used to think I was pretty good with Fusion360, look forward to seeing more of your videos!
Thanks, Michael! Glad to hear you're learning a lot. Cheers! :)
Great explanation!
I'm not sure why, but I found that using the "Q" shortcut option (14.25) would not successfully perform the Offset Face command. When I selected Offset Face from the Modify dropdown in the Solid menu, it worked fine.
I just spent the last 2 hours following step by step through this video 100 times.. I was about to throw my monitor through the window. WTF? Can anyone explain this? When I selected that face and pressed Q, the distance is pre-populated with 16.00mm. And while you can change it by entering something different or by dragging the handle, it doesn't change the face. But as Bruce kindly noted if you choose "Offset Face" from the modify drop-down, the distance is populated with 0.00mm and you can then change it. I also noticed the dialog for the "Q" version of "OFFSET FACE" has an "Offset Type" input field, while the dialog for the modify menu drop-down version of "OFFSET FACE" does not. This is the kind of stuff that is maddening about Fusion 360. So much is contextual but it's documented NO WHERE.
Lastly if you use the "Q" version, if you set the "Offset Type" to "New Offset" it does seem to work.
Great Vids Kevin .
Thanks.
Keep making them.
Thanks, Chris! :)
Just found your channel, this is super helpful! Definitely going to be back here soon for more advice, thanks a lot!
Thanks! Happy learning and printing :)
Awesome! These help a lot! Going to make some with morE tolerances.
Thank you, great vid
Thank you so much! This is amazing!
Super useful. Many thanks.
Nice tutorial. By the way can you give information about the experimental slice tolerance option in Cura? Does it work?
Thank you, thank you, thank you! My threads finally work :) Subscribed. Keep up the awesome videos.
Thanks, River City Mike! :)
TIMESTAMPS
0:48 | Creating a new component
1:03 | Creating a cylinder
1:45 | Activating the thread command
2:36 | Making the thread modeled
3:00 | Adjusting the thread length
3:33 | Selecting the thread type
4:27 | Setting the Designation
5:36 | Defining the class (tolerances)
6:05 | Selecting the direction
6:20 | Remembering most recent threads
6:44 | Creating a nut
7:33 | Adding the internal threads
8:27 | The default clearance
8:47 | Copying and pasting the component
10:00 | Offset faces to create clearance
11:37 | Debossing text to label the clearance
12:05 | Creating the third copy
13:54 | Adding fillets to the thread edges
16:15 | 3D Printed test results
Great tutorial. thank you.
Was making some custom filters for my paint respirator and your video enabled me to get the threaded caps to work on the first try! Would've had to experiment to get a proper fit otherwise, I'm sure. Thanks.
Glad to hear that, Maximilian! Cheers :)
Thanks for the tips, very useful
Thanks for the idea to fillet the threads to make them more robust. I also chamfer the bolt and nut openings a bit before applying the threads. It makes it easier to align the parts and begin the connection.
Great tip, Robert!
Another great video Kevin.
I found that it works out a little better if you split the tolerance addition between the nut and the bolt threads equally.
I also found it useful to add a chamfer to both nut and bolt before adding the thread as it eases printing and threading them together when finished.
Amazing...great tips, Ted! Glad you shared these :)
@@ProductDesignOnline Really appreciate the extra effort to develop top-notch tutorials - thank you however had trouble successfully repeating the 0.15 m fillet added to the inside of the nut thread. Would get an error and a red highlighted line-segment as the thread intersected the nut face (either top/bottom). Considered maybe someone posted a comment on TH-cam and then read's Ted recommendation. As it turns out adding a chamfer prior to threading the nut solved the fillet error issue I was having. Thanks folks!
This is a great video Thanks!
This helped immensely
Great video with tons of info! thank you!
Thanks for watching :)