Thing that gets me with this design it's very good built V8 however I question why they would use a hydraulic pump to power the fan and merge the fluid supply from the power steering fluids same tank. So when your power steering leaks or is low this will also cause the fan to slow down lose RPM and badly overheat the engine. Was Nissan trying to save some $$$? by doing this? shm good possibility but leaves the owner scratching his head. I bring this up because I had this issue didn't even realize that could even be a thing turns out few car models did this Mercedes and 90's Dodge Grand Cherokees.
@ I Royle yeah gotta love that first gen CVT but idk if that would cause it honestly doubtful I mean depending if you'd redline every light but yeah anytime you put a heavy load on a car this case AZ a/c 115° 20-35% humid high output engine VK45DE she's a beast it's about 20 years old even average miles 130k she's do for some repairs but strong and yeah CVT is a problem but idk if that could cause overheating I know low oil or old motor oil or possibly a really clogged air filter but again, you got sensors, fans, switches, rads, condensers etc I hate heat related issues helps to have a diag machine but again helps doesn't get to it a lot of trail and error and being aluminum gotta be careful with them errors.
On the vk56vd don't use a thermostat with a heat range colder than 180°F. It will throw the code for low operating temperature unless the outside temperature is above 80°F. (Speaking from experience)
@@EdBwoy If it's overheating that bad then it's time for a thorough coolant system flush. It's amazing how much crud comes out especially from the heater core. Adding a bottle of purple ice or something similar helps too.
My M45 overflows and over heats. If I corrected the front first thermostat that corrected my major overheating problem to 75% I'm now able to drive maybe a little longer before I have to pull over and empty the coolant out of the filled reserve into the system then back on my marry way for another 25-40 minutes lol could this be the results of the second thermostat " water control valve" in the back needs to be changed and these problems will be 100% fixed?? I was also looking at the aluminum coolant expansion tanks that purge the air automatically but couldn't find one to fit my 08 M45x V8 AWD.... If someone can help me I'd really appreciate it big time. I'm in a panic trying to figure this one out...
@@kittycowboy6401 been a few years since I've worked on a 45 but it does sound like there is more than just the control valve at play, should check it however. Could a combustion leak too! A thorough flush is definitely called for including heater core. Make double sure to bleed the air. (From experience) The driving for 30min seems as though you're getting a steam pocket from air in system. Good luck. If I'm wrong ... Ed know all😉
My issue is weird I'll be at a light or something and intermittently overheating starts to go up after 20-30 mins of on and or driving sometimes about 40-1hr of being on, I'll be at a light it creeps up a couple notches and soon as airflow comes through/moving again it drops, the same notches within seconds and again it'll do this if I idle for more than a few mins starts to rise at uncomfortable levels at about 2/3 till overheat but not redline. Any ideas ? 03 model 199k miles Don't believe she's had a rad flush ever or a long time, might be original rad the fins look clean not bent I mean a few fins look meh but nothing crazy, sits around for most part. Fresh oil and air filter Not sure on timing and water pump. She pulls nicely but again needs a newer back tire so it's hard to tell when everything isn't new or replaced.
My 08 M45x V8 does the same axact thing!! Brand new water pump head gaskets radiator thermostats sparks plugs exc, I however did not check the water control valve "2nd thermostat" so I'm hoping this will fix my problem. I love my car. I'll take any advice anyone has to give.
Yeah has 2 thermostats easy access in front and one in top rear. I believe it's my rad or condenser/ac Seems to be running hard when a/c is on telling me the engine is working harder to keep cool so yeah I'm say con or a/c possible rad issue being could be a bubble causing it, hate heat related issues can be so many things especially on older cars.
No I took a break from it. what it sounds like and comments on here I'm guessing start with that 2nd thermostat that's my next step. I will update on here
Hey i have a question but first, ive seen and commented on a few of your videos and youre an amazing resource for the M infiniti crowd. ive shared your videos a plenty ao i hope i help contribute to your views. question, my infiniti m45 has 230k miles. i live in arizona so the temps are reaching 116-120 outside and now my engine temp is rising to 2/3 of the engine guage but it seems to only be when i have the AC on. Does that sound familiar? i plan to change the thermo and i think im gonna do the water pump and fan control module now too. If you had to guess, do you think any of this stuff would have an effect on engine temps while the AC is on? thanks for any help. You’re a blessing.
You should verify that your coolant system has an adequate amount of fluid in it, and that it is the proper ratio. And if it's a problem that has just shown up for the first time, I would also direct you to check that both fans are turning when you kick the AC on. How old is your fan control module?
And thanks for the support, I appreciate it. I do this for the love of the platform. Doing what I can to help other owners keep their cars on the road.
@EdBwoy My son just had this issue with his 2005 Q45, and I was unaware that the VK45DE had two stats. It throws a P0128 code that had me baffled. And you know I know my way around these cars. One symptom that your rear needs changing is by paying attention to the AC. At 60° setting, the system will blow cold as ever. But the moment you move the temp setting up a few degrees (say to 65°), you will start feeling this mix of noticeable heat and slight cold blowing out the vents. Within minutes, the interior gets warm... far beyond the 65° setting. Another sign I've noticed is that the engine takes longer than is specified by the factory to come up to the operating temperature. Essentially, the coolant gauge climbs very slowly once the vehicle starts from a cold condition. Please advise or correct me if I'm mistaken. I don't want to spread disinformation. Just like you, I love to help fellow VH45DE and VK45DE owners.
I Royle you ever figure it out sounds similar to what I'm experiencing the same didn't know it has two stats so changed the one in the front and soon back. This car had a lot of original shit from rad cap gas cap front stat back stat so makes me think I should replace all with OE or OE equivalent. Haven't had to drop too much on maintenance and replacement parts. They are solid but like every car need attention I'm 199k and strong.
@@Slingersbullseye mine was a few problems. My Fan shroud broke of the radiator. I fixed that and replaced the stats. That helped alot but my trans blew a few months later so that could have been the problem all along.
My 99 Q45 is not overheating but it is going from normal and dropping to cold intermittently. No matter how long the car is an operation. Anyone have any thoughts of what that could possibly be?
I removed my intake manifold to replace the gaskets and wanted to get your opinion on if I should replace both t-stats while the back one is easy to access now ? If so what's the temperature difference. Thanks !
If you intend to keep it for a while, yeah I'd consider doing it. I don't have the numbers off the top of my head, but I probably called them out in this other video - th-cam.com/video/PDn43hg6WCo/w-d-xo.html
Yes, it can be done, but the intake manifold might be in the way depending on the vehicle in question. My suggestion is to use this video as a reference and see if you can get your hands/tools back there.
@@EdBwoy Bro so I just finished taking off the front thermostat housing and that was very tight. The front thermostat was in good condition Thank God. The rear thermostat however, it so tight back there I can’t even see the housing lol idk if I can reach it even if I found it. Working on Fx45 btw. Engine is getting hot after semi long drive
@@krishnar6923 good thing is that they don't go out often. I don't like how they look when I pull them out, although they still function...but since I have the engine out, I might as well replace them.
@@EdBwoy ok I've diving into cooling system maintenance before the summer. How the hell do I get to the back thermostat without pulling the motor? 😭 I'm getting a P0128 code and bought 2 brand new ones.
Lol. Well, you don't have to remove the manifold, but it sure makes the job easier. And you don't have to do this either, but removing the engine makes the job 1000x easier.
Thing that gets me with this design it's very good built V8 however I question why they would use a hydraulic pump to power the fan and merge the fluid supply from the power steering fluids same tank.
So when your power steering leaks or is low this will also cause the fan to slow down lose RPM and badly overheat the engine.
Was Nissan trying to save some $$$? by doing this? shm
good possibility but leaves the owner scratching his head.
I bring this up because I had this issue didn't even realize that could even be a thing turns out few car models did this Mercedes and 90's Dodge Grand Cherokees.
Gotta love the summer 😎
I thought they sent me the wrong gasket. If you notice the thermostat you put on has a gasket that sticks out. It’s not flat like the old ones.
@ I Royle yeah gotta love that first gen CVT but idk if that would cause it honestly doubtful I mean depending if you'd redline every light but yeah anytime you put a heavy load on a car this case AZ a/c 115° 20-35% humid
high output engine VK45DE she's a beast it's about 20 years old even average miles 130k she's do for some repairs but strong and yeah CVT is a problem but idk if that could cause overheating I know low oil or old motor oil or possibly a really clogged air filter but again, you got sensors, fans, switches, rads, condensers etc I hate heat related issues helps to have a diag machine but again helps doesn't get to it a lot of trail and error and being aluminum gotta be careful with them errors.
I never knew 4.5 had 2 thermostats WOW
On the vk56vd don't use a thermostat with a heat range colder than 180°F. It will throw the code for low operating temperature unless the outside temperature is above 80°F. (Speaking from experience)
Yup! Unless you're having some serious running/overheating issues, it's best to stick to OEM
@@EdBwoy If it's overheating that bad then it's time for a thorough coolant system flush. It's amazing how much crud comes out especially from the heater core. Adding a bottle of purple ice or something similar helps too.
My M45 overflows and over heats. If I corrected the front first thermostat that corrected my major overheating problem to 75% I'm now able to drive maybe a little longer before I have to pull over and empty the coolant out of the filled reserve into the system then back on my marry way for another 25-40 minutes lol could this be the results of the second thermostat " water control valve" in the back needs to be changed and these problems will be 100% fixed?? I was also looking at the aluminum coolant expansion tanks that purge the air automatically but couldn't find one to fit my 08 M45x V8 AWD.... If someone can help me I'd really appreciate it big time. I'm in a panic trying to figure this one out...
I'll have it flushed this week and see if that's what it is. I can burp her for hours and she constantly hick UPS air bubbles.. it never stops lmao
@@kittycowboy6401 been a few years since I've worked on a 45 but it does sound like there is more than just the control valve at play, should check it however. Could a combustion leak too!
A thorough flush is definitely called for including heater core. Make double sure to bleed the air. (From experience) The driving for 30min seems as though you're getting a steam pocket from air in system.
Good luck. If I'm wrong ...
Ed know all😉
My issue is weird I'll be at a light or something and intermittently overheating starts to go up after 20-30 mins of on and or driving sometimes about 40-1hr of being on, I'll be at a light it creeps up a couple notches and soon as airflow comes through/moving again it drops, the same notches within seconds and again it'll do this if I idle for more than a few mins starts to rise at uncomfortable levels at about 2/3 till overheat but not redline.
Any ideas ?
03 model 199k miles
Don't believe she's had a rad flush ever or a long time, might be original rad the fins look clean not bent I mean a few fins look meh but nothing crazy,
sits around for most part.
Fresh oil and air filter
Not sure on timing and water pump.
She pulls nicely but again needs a newer back tire so it's hard to tell when everything isn't new or replaced.
My 08 M45x V8 does the same axact thing!! Brand new water pump head gaskets radiator thermostats sparks plugs exc, I however did not check the water control valve "2nd thermostat" so I'm hoping this will fix my problem. I love my car. I'll take any advice anyone has to give.
Yeah has 2 thermostats easy access in front and one in top rear.
I believe it's my rad or condenser/ac
Seems to be running hard when a/c is on telling me the engine is working harder to keep cool so yeah I'm say con or a/c possible rad issue being could be a bubble causing it, hate heat related issues can be so many things especially on older cars.
Did you figure out what it was? Mines doing the same thing.
No I took a break from it. what it sounds like and comments on here I'm guessing start with that 2nd thermostat that's my next step. I will update on here
You have part numbers for both thermostats?
I have a 2009 m35s and can’t get the part number for my pen thermostat. Tried calling dealership and they said they can’t give out part numbers
That's horrible, I suppose they didn't want to help.
The part number for the 2009 M35 (engine has 2 intakes) thermostat is *21200-JK20A*
Hey i have a question but first, ive seen and commented on a few of your videos and youre an amazing resource for the M infiniti crowd. ive shared your videos a plenty ao i hope i help contribute to your views.
question, my infiniti m45 has 230k miles. i live in arizona so the temps are reaching 116-120 outside and now my engine temp is rising to 2/3 of the engine guage but it seems to only be when i have the AC on. Does that sound familiar?
i plan to change the thermo and i think im gonna do the water pump and fan control module now too. If you had to guess, do you think any of this stuff would have an effect on engine temps while the AC is on? thanks for any help.
You’re a blessing.
You should verify that your coolant system has an adequate amount of fluid in it, and that it is the proper ratio.
And if it's a problem that has just shown up for the first time, I would also direct you to check that both fans are turning when you kick the AC on.
How old is your fan control module?
And thanks for the support, I appreciate it.
I do this for the love of the platform. Doing what I can to help other owners keep their cars on the road.
@EdBwoy My son just had this issue with his 2005 Q45, and I was unaware that the VK45DE had two stats. It throws a P0128 code that had me baffled. And you know I know my way around these cars. One symptom that your rear needs changing is by paying attention to the AC. At 60° setting, the system will blow cold as ever. But the moment you move the temp setting up a few degrees (say to 65°), you will start feeling this mix of noticeable heat and slight cold blowing out the vents. Within minutes, the interior gets warm... far beyond the 65° setting. Another sign I've noticed is that the engine takes longer than is specified by the factory to come up to the operating temperature. Essentially, the coolant gauge climbs very slowly once the vehicle starts from a cold condition. Please advise or correct me if I'm mistaken. I don't want to spread disinformation. Just like you, I love to help fellow VH45DE and VK45DE owners.
I Royle you ever figure it out sounds similar to what I'm experiencing the same didn't know it has two stats so changed the one in the front and soon back.
This car had a lot of original shit from rad cap gas cap front stat back stat so makes me think I should replace all with OE or OE equivalent. Haven't had to drop too much on maintenance and replacement parts. They are solid but like every car need attention I'm 199k and strong.
@@Slingersbullseye mine was a few problems. My Fan shroud broke of the radiator. I fixed that and replaced the stats. That helped alot but my trans blew a few months later so that could have been the problem all along.
My 99 Q45 is not overheating but it is going from normal and dropping to cold intermittently. No matter how long the car is an operation. Anyone have any thoughts of what that could possibly be?
I removed my intake manifold to replace the gaskets and wanted to get your opinion on if I should replace both t-stats while the back one is easy to access now ? If so what's the temperature difference.
Thanks !
If you intend to keep it for a while, yeah I'd consider doing it.
I don't have the numbers off the top of my head, but I probably called them out in this other video - th-cam.com/video/PDn43hg6WCo/w-d-xo.html
Can the rear thermostat on the vk45 get changed without removing the engine?
Yes, it can be done, but the intake manifold might be in the way depending on the vehicle in question.
My suggestion is to use this video as a reference and see if you can get your hands/tools back there.
@@EdBwoy Bro so I just finished taking off the front thermostat housing and that was very tight. The front thermostat was in good condition Thank God. The rear thermostat however, it so tight back there I can’t even see the housing lol idk if I can reach it even if I found it. Working on Fx45 btw. Engine is getting hot after semi long drive
How are you what is the part number for the rear thermostat
It's the smaller one in the picture
21230-6N20A
Thank ma again and thank you for your vid on the crank sensor I was able to fix my 2003 M45
Does an 04 fx45 have two thermostats as well?
Yes, it does
Saludos desde puerto rico este motor es bien paresido al m56 s 2012 tambien yeva 2 termlstatos
Yes, it is very similar. However, the M56 only has 1 thermostat.
I plan to do a video showing the similarities & differences between the 2 engines.
How is the space to do the rear one with the motor in the fx?
My guess is that it's terrible, but I'll let someone with an FX tell us what they can see
@@EdBwoy I changed the front one with the motor in not too bad but that rear one look like a bitch hope it don't go bad like that
@@krishnar6923 good thing is that they don't go out often. I don't like how they look when I pull them out, although they still function...but since I have the engine out, I might as well replace them.
why is mine filled with coolant
That's normal for an operational engine, this one has been drained
Do the Y34's have 2 as well?
Yes, all VK45DE engines are like this to the best of my knowledge
@@EdBwoy ok I've diving into cooling system maintenance before the summer. How the hell do I get to the back thermostat without pulling the motor? 😭 I'm getting a P0128 code and bought 2 brand new ones.
@@GPharaod9 just pull the intake manifold for better access.
@@EdBwoy Thanks man ✊🏾✊🏾 I was hoping you didn't say that 🤣
Lol. Well, you don't have to remove the manifold, but it sure makes the job easier.
And you don't have to do this either, but removing the engine makes the job 1000x easier.
And it doesn't make any sense why would they put 2 of them
The water valve controls how the block warms up.