Because the drive shaft is keyed and the cam ring has to line up with its bolt there’s no way to screw up the pump timing I guess. The position of the A mark etc is just needed for synchronising the valve timing? And position of the ring controlling the amount of fuel squirted in by the pistons in the drive head needs to be recorded to optimise fuel consumption/emission control etc.
The big clip by the cam has a square end and a rounded end. It is located in the factory so the timing marks line up with the square end of the clip. The location of the clip is not important if you are not using the letters to line up the timing.
when you fasten drive gear on to hydraulic pumping head how do you make sure it is bolted correctly and not 180 degrees out of time with the 2 bolts. putting a scribe mark before dissassembly would not work for me because I am installing a new head assembly
Their really aint much that can go wrong in these I tore mine apart the piston was stuck from crud dirt water in it I got it cleaned up and other parts put back together. . I just reused my old parts.
What do you mean at 8 :12, the transfer pump is back in with oil slot down? I thought there was only one way it could go back in? Correct me if I'm wrong but can that be placed incorrectly??
I bought the rebuild kit from canadatractorpartsdirect.ca and they were GARBAGE , they told me there was only one kit that fits all DPA pumps and it would work for me. The transfer pump liner that came in the kit didn’t have a fuel notch and they said I couldn’t return the kit because it was open. The owner was rude on the phone and didn’t care to help in any way. Yesterday’s tractor or cross creek tractor have been amazing supplying parts through my entire rebuild
I had the pump calibrated at a local shop that has guy who only works on injectors and pumps , he said my main shaft seal wasn’t seated right so he corrected that and the top O ring on the shutoff lever shaft assembly had rolled out of place when I installed it leaving the shaft tighter then i should have been. Other then that the transfer pump was perfect and the main fuel had to be adjusted to meet the specs I provided. The injectors i had were 2 different types and the injector tips orifices were closing up so I had them supply and install 3 new tips at around $38 CDN each
Thanks a lot for sharing your work! Brings a lot of value!
I thought my dentist was scary but now I see your dental picks and I realise how lucky I was.
Jim you are a smart guy. Thanks for showing this.
Because the drive shaft is keyed and the cam ring has to line up with its bolt there’s no way to screw up the pump timing I guess. The position of the A mark etc is just needed for synchronising the valve timing? And position of the ring controlling the amount of fuel squirted in by the pistons in the drive head needs to be recorded to optimise fuel consumption/emission control etc.
Very interesting. A good running commentary. A fascinating video.
Yeah buddy thanks for giving us a second video of it man!!
The big clip by the cam has a square end and a rounded end. It is located in the factory so the timing marks line up with the square end of the clip.
The location of the clip is not important if you are not using the letters to line up the timing.
Thank you Jim Bo, good job, enjoyed it ~
when you fasten drive gear on to hydraulic pumping head how do you make sure it is bolted correctly and not 180 degrees out of time with the 2 bolts. putting a scribe mark before dissassembly would not work for me because I am installing a new head assembly
Their really aint much that can go wrong in these I tore mine apart the piston was stuck from crud dirt water in it I got it cleaned up and other parts put back together. . I just reused my old parts.
how will we check the rotor and camshaft?
Hi James, thank you for the video, please tell me how do you calibrate slow, idle and full load rotation
Do you use any bench tests?
I had a shop calibrate the pump and go through my injectors after the rebuild.
What do you mean at 8 :12, the transfer pump is back in with oil slot down?
I thought there was only one way it could go back in?
Correct me if I'm wrong but can that be placed incorrectly??
And....how is it working after the rebuild. Also who did you buy the rebuild kit from?
I bought the rebuild kit from canadatractorpartsdirect.ca and they were GARBAGE , they told me there was only one kit that fits all DPA pumps and it would work for me. The transfer pump liner that came in the kit didn’t have a fuel notch and they said I couldn’t return the kit because it was open. The owner was rude on the phone and didn’t care to help in any way. Yesterday’s tractor or cross creek tractor have been amazing supplying parts through my entire rebuild
I had the pump calibrated at a local shop that has guy who only works on injectors and pumps , he said my main shaft seal wasn’t seated right so he corrected that and the top O ring on the shutoff lever shaft assembly had rolled out of place when I installed it leaving the shaft tighter then i should have been. Other then that the transfer pump was perfect and the main fuel had to be adjusted to meet the specs I provided. The injectors i had were 2 different types and the injector tips orifices were closing up so I had them supply and install 3 new tips at around $38 CDN each
Thanks. Great video.
Thank youuuu!!
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