Tell me there aren't parts of this video where it's like watching paint dry? With that said, this is by far one of the best videos for converting an AC compressor to an air compressor. I'll watch videos like this all day over the screaming overenthusiastic tubers who are just mimicking guy like this. Hat's off to you dude!
I just picked up a $5 Sanden compressor to mount on my YJ. This is exactly the information I was looking for. EXCELLENT tutorial! Thank you. 😎 UPDATE: I've had it installed for about a month now: This compressor works awesome! I robbed the pressure switch and blow off valve from a portable compressor (from a yard sale) to complete the install, combined with a throttle set built out of bicycle parts. This bad boy will pump a 30" tire from 18psi back to 35psi in about 30 seconds! The little Jeep rides so much better with the tires aired down. Thanks again.
Great video. Very informative, lots of useful little tips. I will be doing this to my XJ sometime in the next couple weeks. Looking forward to it. I will be reviewing this video again if need be. Thank you very much for posting!
By far the best and most informative video out there for the Sanden. I'm starting this project this weekend and was going to put in a lubricator and coalescing filter but will be doing it as you have shown now.
I have never thought about grease i have always plugged the lube hole and but a fill hole in the top and put 4 ounces of 30 w compressor oil thats always worked for me 4 ounces seems to be about 1/4 of the way full And when i got the head off i tap the holes for 1/2 pipe thread
I was considering using air compressor oil. Why not use the stuff made for this application? I like the idea about tapping the head for standard pipe thread.
sorry to be so offtopic but does anybody know of a way to log back into an instagram account? I somehow lost my account password. I appreciate any assistance you can offer me.
@Felix Gunner Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Fantastic teardown, doing a bit of tinkering with my old gq patrol compressor which happens to be a sanden 709, getting it on a temporary testbed to see if it looks ok, always wanted to give onboard air a go
Many questions on mounting one of these. Obviously a factory mount location is easiest. Otherwise adding a diy bracket is the next option. Essentially one needs to provide enough belt wrap around it. That's generally done by adding an idler pulley. One may be able to use or mimic a dual alternator bracket. Just make sure belt stays lined up on the same plane as other pulleys. Then get a longer belt, which can be the hardest part. Using a piece of rope wrap around all pulleys and then measure including the tensioner. Belt manufacturers have a list of all their belts in a catalog with lengths and part numbers. Be sure to post your info somewhere others can find it for reference
I'll get on that as soon as I'm done with this clutch! I've kind of forgotten about this I'm not a 'creator' this is just something I've done to try to help people out, I didn't realize it had gotten this popular while I was away! I'll try to make more of a point to log in daily and answer people's questions! Best of luck
I've just done this mod on my A/C pump ('99 4.0 RHD) and the volume of air it puts out is epic! Mine is fitted with an adaptor block and right angled fittings to get the air in and out - doesn't seem to affect the flow adversely. Unfortunately my A/C radiator was ruined so I can't cool the air, but maybe I'll add a small cooler in at some point in the future. Thanks for the great video; easy to follow and very helpful!
I plan to try this on my XJ, assuming the factory compressor is the right sort. The A/C doesn't work (never has since I owned it) which isn't a problem in the UK as we only get 3 days a year when it's hot enough to need it. Hopefully the compressor works and the line to the condenser is OK, and the condenser itself - I plan to then run a separator before a small air reservoir to remove the condensate (water) and any oil (or otherwise) that comes through - dry air is so much better for your tyres! Small side note - your comment about using a switched live from the ignition, "in case the battery goes flat", got me to thinking about why you'd do that if the compressor only works with the engine running. Of course, the clutch on the compressor would eventually drain the battery, I suppose. Anyway, thanks for the video, makes it a much less daunting prospect to open the compressor and tinker with it.
Thank you so much for the information. There is a company that sells a compressor all cleaned out and has a zerk fitting on the housing. They call for 5 pumps every 6 hours of runtime of synthetic grease. It's 500 bucks though. So I'm wondering if this is a way better option. Does anyone know if that fitting is critical? Or does this setup do just fine maybe open it up every few years and re grease it?
I have one question can you put ATF (Automatic transmission fluid ) for extra lubricantion with the grease ? Thanks. Very informative and well explained.
Help me understand. With this compressor set up and greased at the front end does this mean you do not need to put a oiler on the inline? I assume not. Looking forward to your response. Cheers!
No, the back and air output are separated. Some say ya shouldn't add an inline oiler, I tend to agree now. The oil gets forced out the rubber hoses and makes a mess.
Plan to do this to my sanden 709 I did the setup with a inline oiler and the water oil separator The separator got too hot and cracked during the first use so I might just do this so I can delete the whole oiler and water oil separator..
Nope, I've got a handful of these out in the wild and they're all just grease filled, grease is heavy enough it shouldn't be a problem with blowby, but if you want to put an oil separator in-line for an extra piece of mind it wouldn't hurt anything, good luck!
This is very educational and informative. I like to DIY when I can to save money (and within my budget🤣). Everything you had showcased is awesome. I know what other parts are needed. However, where I am lacking is how to mount and drive the unit. I have a 2008 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 4x4, 5.3L gas engine with a serpentine belt system . The only place I found room for the unit will be next to the alternator (driver's side of the engine). Ok, fabricating a bracket, I can get done. But how do I drive the compressor? I looked for a double serpentine alternator pulley. Does not exist. I can find double v groove pulleys for alternators. But then I won't be able to drive the alternator with a v groove pulley. I am just stuck on how to mount and how to drive the unit. Any suggestions?
You can maybe add another idler pulley and longer belt. Otherwise use or diy a dual alternator bracket that makes it work. Then just figure out what longer length belt is needed.
I've been thinking about doing this. Would it be a good idea to also add a grease nipple on the side of the body to add some grease every now and then on something that's used daily for air bags, air horn, and a pneumatic actuated exhaust brake? Also thinking about running the intake of the pump to a valve cover breather so it sucks up a small amount of oil vapor to lubricate the top side of the pistons.
The guys at extreme outback do exactly that. They also charge 500 for the unit. After watching this, I have realized I paid 400 bucks for a grease fitting! Lol
It sounds good in theory, but I have a sanden compressor I was messing around with, and even with that port blocked off, the gear oil was able to get past the piston rings and into the air lines. It was thick gear oil too, 85W-140! Haven't switched to grease yet, but it seems like the way to go.
Question for you, in the video you state this works on TJs up to 2006. I have a 2005 with a different style compressor it’s a Denso instead, and looks like a different body altogether. Have you converted one of them? Looks like the pulley has to be removed entirely to get to the bolts holding it all together. Got any information on it?
Honestly none. I use grease in my builds and I haven't had any issues. My original build is still going strong after almost a decade with no added grease. If you were to use oil, it could leak by. There's a good seal between the cylinders and walls, but there are no rings to wipe oil like in an engine. Just o rings for pressure building. In that case an inline separator may be needed, but the grease has worked awesome on every one of my builds.
If you block off the oil passage, would there be any reason against putting a hole in the side of the crank case and filling it with a little bit of motor oil or the like. Im wanting to use one for a portable compressor welder combo. Just wondering if there woukd be any downside to using oil. Then there wouldnt be a need to re grease after a lot of run time
If you maintain the clutch system, it'll only run when needed, not constantly. Typically there is a plug on the side of you feel you'd need to check or replace/add grease, you can be the best judge of that as I can't be informed of every situation. However, I kind of lean towards oil being thin and getting into the cylinder since there's not really a sealing ring there. Just a really tight fit and I believe a lot of blow by. Normally this isn't an issue since it's just sent back into the system it's meant to be in anyways, but if you're using it as a stand-alone compressor, it may cause issues with oil loss, but could also help oil tools? I'm not sure of how much blowby you'd get to be honest, if you do try it, keep us posted! Thanks!
@@trinksauto576 I haven't run it much yet, but I used some 75-140 gear oil, it was tge thickest stuff i had, I run it off of a drill for aboit 5 minutes as a preliminary teat and didnt have any oil blow by. Ive still got a lot if work to do to it yet though. Mounting and wiring everything still
I've never added to it, there's no obvious signs of leakage either. They're actually is a plug on the side of the case you could use to add to if you liked. Sorry for the long response time things have been busy and I'm not a 'creator' this is just something I've done to try to help people out, I didn't realize it had gotten this popular while I was away! I'll try to make more of a point to log in daily and answer people's questions! Best of luck!
Most I have seen add a grease fitting in place of the drain plug on the side of the case and if you look at extreme air products (I think) they mention how often to pump grease in but I would be careful . If this guy has never added grease and run it for 10 years then probably give it a pump or 2 a year
@@1966cambo yea I’m planning to use this set up for an airbag set up so it will see more use than a weekly trail ride but I’ll keep an eye on it and just add in a grease fitting for periodic pumps
@@bradfordcustoms7588 I have built the york 210 for on board air in the past, it ran often because I used the air for actuating an exhaust brake as well as air tools etc, never had an issue with it ever!
I do like the compactness of the sanden unit though and my truck has one that’s not being used so yup, will be pulling it to convert it over, might use the factory condenser to cool the air too.....
It just bolts into the factory bracket if it's a TJ/YJ. If you're not working with a factory AC Jeep you'll need to change the belt and the idle pulley under the alternator too.
I'm trying to do this with a sanden 508 compressor. When I removed the head, I found 2 holes instead of 1. One is tapered and one is not. This compressor has 5 pistons. Should I plug both holes? Thanks.
Hey, I'm really sorry for not getting back to you sooner, I don't consider myself a creator and this kind of fell by the wayside to a full-time job, a family and the whole pandemic. Check the one way valve I believe only one hole is uncovered, and that's the one you'll need to tap, if they're both uncovered you may need to tap and plug both of them
You're actually both correct, while it is a trademarked name, it is also a chemical compound that comprises any of several simple fluorinated aliphatic organic compounds (yes I copied that last part but I did know there's a dual reasoning here lol) enjoy! www.britannica.com/science/Freon
It's how to convert an A/C pump to stay lubed via grease, and not the oil in the freon mixture, an A/C pump is already an air pump, it just normally pumps freon that contains a lubricant, and not fresh air into an enclosed tank. Removing the freon to use it as an air compressor is why you need to convert it to run on grease. You're not entirely wrong, but most people wouldn't find the video is I labeled it how to convert to run on grease, I hope this helps!
Tell me there aren't parts of this video where it's like watching paint dry? With that said, this is by far one of the best videos for converting an AC compressor to an air compressor. I'll watch videos like this all day over the screaming overenthusiastic tubers who are just mimicking guy like this. Hat's off to you dude!
I just picked up a $5 Sanden compressor to mount on my YJ. This is exactly the information I was looking for. EXCELLENT tutorial!
Thank you. 😎
UPDATE:
I've had it installed for about a month now:
This compressor works awesome! I robbed the pressure switch and blow off valve from a portable compressor (from a yard sale) to complete the install, combined with a throttle set built out of bicycle parts. This bad boy will pump a 30" tire from 18psi back to 35psi in about 30 seconds! The little Jeep rides so much better with the tires aired down. Thanks again.
Great video. Very informative, lots of useful little tips. I will be doing this to my XJ sometime in the next couple weeks. Looking forward to it. I will be reviewing this video again if need be. Thank you very much for posting!
By far the best and most informative video out there for the Sanden. I'm starting this project this weekend and was going to put in a lubricator and coalescing filter but will be doing it as you have shown now.
I have never thought about grease i have always plugged the lube hole and but a fill hole in the top and put 4 ounces of 30 w compressor oil thats always worked for me 4 ounces seems to be about 1/4 of the way full
And when i got the head off i tap the holes for 1/2 pipe thread
I was considering using air compressor oil. Why not use the stuff made for this application?
I like the idea about tapping the head for standard pipe thread.
This was a great explanation of how to switch a Sanden compressor over ... best I have seen. Thank you!
Thank you Dave! I really appreciate the feedback!
sorry to be so offtopic but does anybody know of a way to log back into an instagram account?
I somehow lost my account password. I appreciate any assistance you can offer me.
@Felix Gunner Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Felix Gunner it worked and I now got access to my account again. Im so happy!
Thanks so much, you saved my ass!
@Dominik Kai Glad I could help :)
The bearing on the wobble plate is called a thrust bearing. You can find more inside automatic transmissions, too.
Fantastic teardown, doing a bit of tinkering with my old gq patrol compressor which happens to be a sanden 709, getting it on a temporary testbed to see if it looks ok, always wanted to give onboard air a go
Many questions on mounting one of these. Obviously a factory mount location is easiest. Otherwise adding a diy bracket is the next option. Essentially one needs to provide enough belt wrap around it. That's generally done by adding an idler pulley. One may be able to use or mimic a dual alternator bracket. Just make sure belt stays lined up on the same plane as other pulleys. Then get a longer belt, which can be the hardest part. Using a piece of rope wrap around all pulleys and then measure including the tensioner. Belt manufacturers have a list of all their belts in a catalog with lengths and part numbers. Be sure to post your info somewhere others can find it for reference
That was the coolest thing I've seen for quite awhile. Now you've really got me intrigued to find out how to make the welder!
I'll get on that as soon as I'm done with this clutch! I've kind of forgotten about this I'm not a 'creator' this is just something I've done to try to help people out, I didn't realize it had gotten this popular while I was away! I'll try to make more of a point to log in daily and answer people's questions! Best of luck
I've just done this mod on my A/C pump ('99 4.0 RHD) and the volume of air it puts out is epic! Mine is fitted with an adaptor block and right angled fittings to get the air in and out - doesn't seem to affect the flow adversely. Unfortunately my A/C radiator was ruined so I can't cool the air, but maybe I'll add a small cooler in at some point in the future.
Thanks for the great video; easy to follow and very helpful!
I put a pipe on the suction side and connected it to the intake manifold of my cummins.
I plan to try this on my XJ, assuming the factory compressor is the right sort. The A/C doesn't work (never has since I owned it) which isn't a problem in the UK as we only get 3 days a year when it's hot enough to need it. Hopefully the compressor works and the line to the condenser is OK, and the condenser itself - I plan to then run a separator before a small air reservoir to remove the condensate (water) and any oil (or otherwise) that comes through - dry air is so much better for your tyres!
Small side note - your comment about using a switched live from the ignition, "in case the battery goes flat", got me to thinking about why you'd do that if the compressor only works with the engine running. Of course, the clutch on the compressor would eventually drain the battery, I suppose.
Anyway, thanks for the video, makes it a much less daunting prospect to open the compressor and tinker with it.
Yes it does, and I hate to admit it but I've been a victim of that myself in more than one occasion!
Just about to jump into this conversion! Thanks for the great video and explanation!
Thanks for watching! I hope it went well, sorry for the hiatus!
Thank you so much for the information. There is a company that sells a compressor all cleaned out and has a zerk fitting on the housing. They call for 5 pumps every 6 hours of runtime of synthetic grease. It's 500 bucks though. So I'm wondering if this is a way better option. Does anyone know if that fitting is critical? Or does this setup do just fine maybe open it up every few years and re grease it?
Thanks for sharing this video! How are the pistons & bores lubricated? Could you add oil to the compressor? If so, how much?
thanks for the knowledge shared.really appreciate it.
the grease Trink's Auto uses in this video is NLGI grade 2
Great Video...Thank you
I have one question can you put ATF (Automatic transmission fluid ) for extra lubricantion with the grease ? Thanks. Very informative and well explained.
Hey man! Would love to hear more about that 318 swap, currently dead in the water on a 360 swap, can get the wiring to work
How best do you connect to the ports to adapt to air lines. The fittings aren't very common..
AWESOME INFO" THANKS from Idaho! newsub
Help me understand. With this compressor set up and greased at the front end does this mean you do not need to put a oiler on the inline? I assume not. Looking forward to your response. Cheers!
No, the back and air output are separated. Some say ya shouldn't add an inline oiler, I tend to agree now. The oil gets forced out the rubber hoses and makes a mess.
Plan to do this to my sanden 709 I did the setup with a inline oiler and the water oil separator The separator got too hot and cracked during the first use so I might just do this so I can delete the whole oiler and water oil separator..
So I'm gathering you don't add an oiler at all. just letting the grease do all the lubricating?
U can use gear oil or oil stabilizer with grease but I suggest get a separator just incase a little blow by
Nope, I've got a handful of these out in the wild and they're all just grease filled, grease is heavy enough it shouldn't be a problem with blowby, but if you want to put an oil separator in-line for an extra piece of mind it wouldn't hurt anything, good luck!
This is very educational and informative. I like to DIY when I can to save money (and within my budget🤣). Everything you had showcased is awesome. I know what other parts are needed.
However, where I am lacking is how to mount and drive the unit.
I have a 2008 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 4x4, 5.3L gas engine with a serpentine belt system . The only place I found room for the unit will be next to the alternator (driver's side of the engine).
Ok, fabricating a bracket, I can get done. But how do I drive the compressor? I looked for a double serpentine alternator pulley. Does not exist. I can find double v groove pulleys for alternators. But then I won't be able to drive the alternator with a v groove pulley.
I am just stuck on how to mount and how to drive the unit.
Any suggestions?
You can maybe add another idler pulley and longer belt. Otherwise use or diy a dual alternator bracket that makes it work. Then just figure out what longer length belt is needed.
I've been thinking about doing this. Would it be a good idea to also add a grease nipple on the side of the body to add some grease every now and then on something that's used daily for air bags, air horn, and a pneumatic actuated exhaust brake? Also thinking about running the intake of the pump to a valve cover breather so it sucks up a small amount of oil vapor to lubricate the top side of the pistons.
The guys at extreme outback do exactly that. They also charge 500 for the unit. After watching this, I have realized I paid 400 bucks for a grease fitting! Lol
I just picked up a Denso ac unit I want to convert. Can I just grease this one? Or does it need oil?
Thank you!
What pressure blow off switch and auto off switch do you use/recommend.
I plan on finding a way to use this on my 05 ram with the 5.7 hemi
I wonder if you could use a good gear oil for this. Maybe fill it about 1/4 full.
It sounds good in theory, but I have a sanden compressor I was messing around with, and even with that port blocked off, the gear oil was able to get past the piston rings and into the air lines. It was thick gear oil too, 85W-140! Haven't switched to grease yet, but it seems like the way to go.
Do you have a tank as well
Question for you, in the video you state this works on TJs up to 2006. I have a 2005 with a different style compressor it’s a Denso instead, and looks like a different body altogether. Have you converted one of them? Looks like the pulley has to be removed entirely to get to the bolts holding it all together. Got any information on it?
Is your NLGI2 grease lithium based?
I'm trying to find something local that matches your choice as that brand isn't on store shelves around here.
How much oil blow by do you get? Should you need an oil water separater?
Honestly none. I use grease in my builds and I haven't had any issues. My original build is still going strong after almost a decade with no added grease.
If you were to use oil, it could leak by. There's a good seal between the cylinders and walls, but there are no rings to wipe oil like in an engine. Just o rings for pressure building. In that case an inline separator may be needed, but the grease has worked awesome on every one of my builds.
Wouldn’t you be able to use jb weld
If you block off the oil passage, would there be any reason against putting a hole in the side of the crank case and filling it with a little bit of motor oil or the like. Im wanting to use one for a portable compressor welder combo. Just wondering if there woukd be any downside to using oil. Then there wouldnt be a need to re grease after a lot of run time
If you maintain the clutch system, it'll only run when needed, not constantly. Typically there is a plug on the side of you feel you'd need to check or replace/add grease, you can be the best judge of that as I can't be informed of every situation.
However, I kind of lean towards oil being thin and getting into the cylinder since there's not really a sealing ring there. Just a really tight fit and I believe a lot of blow by. Normally this isn't an issue since it's just sent back into the system it's meant to be in anyways, but if you're using it as a stand-alone compressor, it may cause issues with oil loss, but could also help oil tools? I'm not sure of how much blowby you'd get to be honest, if you do try it, keep us posted!
Thanks!
@@trinksauto576 I haven't run it much yet, but I used some 75-140 gear oil, it was tge thickest stuff i had, I run it off of a drill for aboit 5 minutes as a preliminary teat and didnt have any oil blow by. Ive still got a lot if work to do to it yet though. Mounting and wiring everything still
Will it fit on a g body Chevy
Would this have enough longevity to be used for an air ride system?
Did you use one of these for an air ride system? I'm considering it too.
How often do you regrease these? Would you add a grease fitting to it?
I've never added to it, there's no obvious signs of leakage either. They're actually is a plug on the side of the case you could use to add to if you liked. Sorry for the long response time things have been busy and I'm not a 'creator' this is just something I've done to try to help people out, I didn't realize it had gotten this popular while I was away! I'll try to make more of a point to log in daily and answer people's questions! Best of luck!
Most I have seen add a grease fitting in place of the drain plug on the side of the case and if you look at extreme air products (I think) they mention how often to pump grease in but I would be careful . If this guy has never added grease and run it for 10 years then probably give it a pump or 2 a year
@@1966cambo yea I’m planning to use this set up for an airbag set up so it will see more use than a weekly trail ride but I’ll keep an eye on it and just add in a grease fitting for periodic pumps
@@bradfordcustoms7588 I have built the york 210 for on board air in the past, it ran often because I used the air for actuating an exhaust brake as well as air tools etc, never had an issue with it ever!
I do like the compactness of the sanden unit though and my truck has one that’s not being used so yup, will be pulling it to convert it over, might use the factory condenser to cool the air too.....
Do you have a video showing this modification functional?
Yes, I made one for you, I'll upload it now! Enjoy!
@@trinksauto576 what do we use for air lines
I've always used bulk air brake line, a compression union will fit over the AC hard line and couple it to the brake line
Can you use this as a compressor for air ride system in a car?
Absolutely
How about using this on a stationary 80 gal tank? Same mods?
Yeah! As long as it's belt driven around 800-1200 RPM it should be fine
What do we do for air lines
I typically use a brass compression coupling to couple the A/C hard line to regular plastic air brake hose
How did you install this on jeep?
It just bolts into the factory bracket if it's a TJ/YJ. If you're not working with a factory AC Jeep you'll need to change the belt and the idle pulley under the alternator too.
What is 2.5 and 318?
Engine sizes, my Jeep originally came equipped with a 2.5 liter four cylinder, I've replaced it with a 5.2 V8 from a 2001 Ram
I'm trying to do this with a sanden 508 compressor. When I removed the head, I found 2 holes instead of 1. One is tapered and one is not. This compressor has 5 pistons. Should I plug both holes? Thanks.
Hey, I'm really sorry for not getting back to you sooner, I don't consider myself a creator and this kind of fell by the wayside to a full-time job, a family and the whole pandemic.
Check the one way valve I believe only one hole is uncovered, and that's the one you'll need to tap, if they're both uncovered you may need to tap and plug both of them
Yes you need to tap and plug both holes on the 508. Pull the brass tubes out too from inside the swash plate housing before you try and tap the holes.
Refrigerant not Freon.
what do you mean , freon is a refrigerant and is what is used on a ac compressor
@@jonathanlaguna3418 Freon is a brand, it’s like saying drain the castrol from your engine.
Oh, I never knew that. I have been saying it wrong for years haha
You're actually both correct, while it is a trademarked name, it is also a chemical compound that comprises any of several simple fluorinated aliphatic organic compounds (yes I copied that last part but I did know there's a dual reasoning here lol) enjoy!
www.britannica.com/science/Freon
That circle pattern to seat the head got me all hot and bothered. I know it’s for demos sake, but damn if ya know, ya know.
N
6g
I think the video is more of greasing the compressor than making an onboard air setup. I didn't see any setup , sorry
It's how to convert an A/C pump to stay lubed via grease, and not the oil in the freon mixture, an A/C pump is already an air pump, it just normally pumps freon that contains a lubricant, and not fresh air into an enclosed tank. Removing the freon to use it as an air compressor is why you need to convert it to run on grease. You're not entirely wrong, but most people wouldn't find the video is I labeled it how to convert to run on grease, I hope this helps!